Transcripts
1. About The Class: Hello everyone.
I'm Bianca Rayala. I'm a watercolor artist and educator from
the Philippines. I love watercolors
and I'm so passionate about sharing my love for
arts through teaching. Water has always been one
of my favorite subjects to paint because of its
mesmerizing characteristics. In this new course, we will unfold the magic of painting water with watercolors. Learn how to convey
waters dynamics on paper, how to portray
liveliness, volume, and structure without
creating muddy colors. Understand aerial
perspective, tonal values, and how to simplify
complex objects in painting your own
watercolor work. Through a step-by-step
painting instruction, you will learn a simple
and uncomplicated way of drawing boats, painting water, image of waves, and mirror reflections using modern watercolor techniques. If fear hinders
you from painting your favorite seascape
photographs and you want to have a whole new perspective
on painting water, then this course is for you. Hone your skills and explore new facets of
watercolor with me. I'll see you in class.
2. Preparing For The Class: Hello friends. Thank
you for joining me in this watercolor
journey through the sea. Today we will be studying
how to depict water, it's color, and movement. We will study how to draw a boat and its reflection and
we will learn how to turn a simple plot to a creative and atmospheric
watercolor work using a very limited
color palette. Let me share with you
some important theories that you need to understand when painting water because I
want you to be able to paint on your own and not
just copy how I painted. In painting water, you must
remember these three things. First is shape, second is value, and third is color. Most of the time we are
too focused on the color, but this is actually the least
important among the three. If we think of it, painting with even
one color can look beautiful if there
is depth and volume. We don't have volume if we don't observe proper tonal
values in our work, yet correct tonal
values won't support a deformed shape of the
object in our painting. So in effect, shape and
tones always go together. Let's look at our
reference photo. As we can observe, water in the distance
is lighter then gradually becomes
darker closer to us. We paint the water
with tones from light, moderate, and dark. Second, there are
no large waves in the background or in the
water at the distance, we only paint small
horizontal waves in the middle ground, and the bigger waves are
painted on the foreground. These big waves
are not horizontal anymore but could be
irregular in shape. These waves become even
bigger closer to us and the waves are also getting darker in tonal value
than the water, therefore, when painting water, we change not only
the tonal value of water but also the tonal
value and shape of waves. Now, I'd like to share the materials that I will
be using for the lesson. First, I will use Baohong
watercolor paper. This is 100 percent
cotton in 300 GSM. This is eight by
11 inch in size. I advice you to use
a cotton paper, especially when drawing
seascapes since we will be using lots of water
in placing layers. The brushes I have here are renaissance natural table brush for painting the water fragment, flat brush for
wetting the paper, synthetic brush for
painting details, and a fine brush just in case I need to remove some
unwanted blues on my work. I will use my main
watercolor palette. The colors that I mostly used for this project
are yellow ocher, burnt sienna, Indian
red, neutral tint, amethysts genuine, horizon blue, lavender, Payne's gray, indigo, olive green, lunar blue, cobalt blue,
and titanium white. Prepare also pencil, eraser, two cups of water and
some tissue paper. The copy of the reference
photo, pencil, sketch, and final painting
are all provided in the resource section of the project and resources
tab below this video. I encourage you to keep a copy of the reference
beside you while painting. Let's go to the next lesson
for the pencil sketch.
3. Pencil Sketch: This is our photo reference
for our painting. The boat being the
focal point will be positioned in the upper
half of the paper, then its reflection will be occupying the lower
third of the paper. To get the correct
perspective of the boat, I simply use my pencil
to get the angle from my reference and then
transfer it to my paper. These two points will
serve as my guide as I decide on the size of my boat. I draw an infinity
symbol as my guide, and start drawing the
back part of the boat. Then, I draw the boat, and still observing
the angles that I see on the reference photo. The sailing yacht looks complicated because of
the so many details it has. But to simplify the process, just focus on big
shapes when sketching. Always compare the angles of each major part with your sketch to make sure that the shapes are in
correct perspective. Next, let's draw the deck. Again, observe the inclination
of the angles per side, and then copy it on
your working paper. Look for the big shapes, and you don't necessarily need to draw each detail
that you see. I add the windows and some lines here in the deck to
enhance the picture. I will not include the wood poles
in the foreground, so we have a complete
view of the boat. Now, if there are parts on the boat that are not clear
in the reference, it is okay to alter
the details or shapes, so the picture would
still look good. I tried drawing the
mast with the freehand, but I decided to just use a ruler to make
it more straight. Now, let's draw the reflection. The reflection is
almost the same size of the main object
being reflected. We don't need to draw the
reflection in detail, but rather just the main outline to serve as our
guide when painting. The reflection is basically a mirror
view of the object. I do some loose and
very light strokes to draw the outline
of the reflection. I check if the reflection is of the
same size of the boat and if the angle of the reflections
are also correct. I will add some
details like reels, the backstay, and
also the folded seal. Now, I'll be finalizing my
sketch by adding fender. These ropes [inaudible] on the side to
enhance the home position. This is our final sketch.
4. Painting The Water: [MUSIC] In this lesson, I will show you a simple
and not so complicated way to paint the sea. We will paint the
water portion by portion to create
a smooth gradient from light to dark tone from the background to
the foreground. Then while the fragment is still moist we will paint the waves in one goal and let
the layer to dry completely before painting
the boat and reflection. At this moment, I'm partially erasing my sketch to
lighten the strokes. Once the lead has
been wet with water, they become permanent
and inerasable. I suggest that you
keep a copy of the reference photo
beside you while painting so you will learn
how to observe tonal values. The photo reference can be downloaded from the
resource section found in the project and
resources tab. Let's start. Using a flat brush I will pre-wet the upper
part of my paper, avoiding the mast, the sail, and the boat. I pre-wet it with water
because I want to paint a soft
atmospheric background. [MUSIC] I tilt the paper by placing
a tape at the back. This will help the paint
to flow down naturally. [MUSIC] I get the watery mix
overrides and [inaudible]. Remember that when you
work with wet-on-wet, the paint will get lighter as
it dries since the water on your paper will delete
the mix that you applied. Now with a gentle stroke, I paint the background water
with a very watery mix. [MUSIC] I gradually add a little bit more of horizon blue to have
a soft gradient. Notice how the paint naturally flows down since my
paper is tilted. I carefully outline the boat, making sure I won't stain
it as much as possible. Using a synthetic brush, I created a slightly thicker mix using the same two colors to paint the horizontal strokes that will portray the
waves from the distance. Again, the waves in
the middle ground are almost straight and very thin. The waves gradually
gets bigger and more irregular in shape as we
approach the foreground. Now, I go back to my
natural hair round brush to continue painting
the water fragment. Here my mix is more
saturated and a bit creamy. I want to show a more
obvious transition in tone that is why I'm
working wet on dry. Carefully paint around
the boat and the boy. Since we are painting
on a dry sheet, we need the work very fast to avoid hard edges on
the water fragment. I also use my flat
brush to soften the edges on the outline
of the reflection. I gradually add indigo in my mix to have a dark foreground and I soften the edge
with a clean brush. I didn't paint the reflection
with blue since we will use a different set of colors to paint the reflection. Remember that the foreground
should be very dark in tone to have a sense of
depth in your seascape. [MUSIC] I just soften the edges
using a clean, damp brush and also blend the color slightly to have a
smooth gradient. Now I'm mixing a very rich
dark color to paint the waves. If my foreground is this dark, my wave should have a darker tone and
thicker consistency. I mix indigo, lunar blue, and [inaudible] to paint
the waves with one stroke. I added Paynes gray
to make it even darker as I noticed that
it still light dark. I paint the waves with gentle
and irregular strokes, making sure that
the paper is still moist as they do the process. My brush should also have
not much water in it. Now, I notice a bloom
here on this side, so I use my fan brush to blend
and get rid of the blooms. Since my water fragment
is still moist, I can darken some more the
waves in the background. However, if you notice that your paper is
turning dry already, and as you make the stroke, you already create hard edges, you need to stop. We don't want hard
edges on the waves. What you can do is
let it dry completely first then gently pre-wet
your paper with clean water, and then begin painting the waves once the
paper becomes moist, have this layer dry
completely then let's paint the reflection
on the next video.
5. Painting The Reflection: At this stage, my paper is
thoroughly dry already. It is important to
work with dry paper to avoid color bleeds
between boat and water. I take my natural hair brush
and mix the colors lavender, neutral tan, and a bit of
yellow ocher and horizon blue. The mix should be like an opaque bluish-gray color to portray the off-white boat. I'll add a bit of cobalt
blue for a more bluish tone. Starting from the bow, I paint this thick mix of color. I make sure to paint
carefully and use this step to define the
main shape of the boat. I skip painting the fender, then continue painting the boat, but this time, with
a very light mix. We want to build
dimension on the board, that's why we don't fill it
in with one single tone. While it is still wet, I drop some yellow ocher and
blend it with my gray mix. This will give extra interest
in the texture of the boat. I also darken the base
with neutral tan color. Next, I mix a thick mix of
horizon blue and amateurs genuine to create an even
darker and more defined base. I'm dropping some paints on the moist surface of the boat to create more interesting texture. Next, let's paint the deck. I will leave the lightened
parts unpainted to preserve the light and I will just
paint the parts in shadow. Using my gray mix, I carefully paint
the sides facing me. Again, avoid painting
the top parts which are lighted by the sun. I paint the windows with
the same green mix. Let's leave the boat
this way for now, and paint the reflections first. Using the leftover dark
blue mix on my palette, I add some olive green, indigo, and horizon
blue to create this deep, dark greenish mix. I load my brush so well and start painting a small
part to test the color. Now I realize that we have a dark gray color on
the base of the boat, so we need to paint
its reflection using a different color. I will create a
deep indigo mix to paint the reflection next
to the base of the boat. Then I will transition it to the deep green color
that I made earlier. Notice how thick my mix is. It is so saturated
and almost opaque. While this dark blue fragment
is still moist I connect the green color to
avoid the hard edges. Using the tip of
my brush I create tiny wavy strokes to paint
the edges of the reflection. I need to cover the
entire white area. I refer to the general
and dominant shapes that I see on my reference when
painting the reflection. We don't need to actually
copy each detail. Here, I am gently softening
the edge between the base of the board and the reflection to remove those white
tiny gaps in between. Next, I create the mix
with lavender and horizon blue to paint the reflection at the back part of the board, which is lighter in tone. I want to darken this
base of the board. Using a very thick
paint in a dry brush, I do a quick outline. We do this step to enhance
the appearance of the boat into separate it clearly
from its reflection. I'll just add a yellow
ocher lining to enhance the look and add some hints of ocher in
the reflection too. Since I plan to add
also a dark blue lining on the upper part
of the board later on, I will be darkening
also the edges of their reflection
with a dark blue color. Next step is painting the
reflection of the mask. Make sure that they are aligned as you paint
the reflection. The same principle should
be done in painting the reflection of the
sails and riggers. As I paint reflections, I dance my brush to
create soft wavy strokes. It always looks better
if we paint them in one stroke and not layer
another stroke on top of it. The consistency of paint should
be thick and not watery, so it will pop up and be visible on top of
the water fragment. Don't forget to paint also the reflection of the
ropes and the buoy, to have a complete painting. We are almost done
with this project. I'll see you in the
next video to enhance the board and finalize
the painting.
6. Painting The Boat: In this lesson, we will be completing the
details of the boat. Let's start with the
folded blue sail. Let's mix cobalt blue
and indigo to have a color almost similar
to the reference. I paint the reflected light
with a light blue color using amethyst genuine
and horizon blue, and then connect them
to the dark tones. Varying the tones will make
it dimensional and not flat. Next, let's paint the mast. I start with yellow
ocher then blend it with dark brown Jenna and then
lastly with neutral thin. I soften the base and paint the reflected
shadow of the sail. Next, I paint the
size of the deck with a lighter tone
to create dimension. Again, we focus on
painting shapes and not the specific
part of the objects, so we don't get overwhelmed
on what to paint. Keep the parts facing
the sky unpainted to make them the brightest
part of the sail. I darken this side a little bit to make it more
dimensional in this thing. Now, I paint some dots of dark color to serve
as suggestive stroke. Be careful not to outline
the entire board. We just use this
suggestive strokes to give the viewers a hint of
the overall shape. Let's enhance the other details
like these two windows, and other elements that can enhance that this
sign of the boat. Keep it loose and
don't go overboard. You will be surprised
how spots of colors can create a nice
difference in the overall look. No need to paint
everything in the detail. Next, let's paint
the hand rails on both sides in swift dry strokes. A paint with a light tone, a portion of the board
to define the shape. In the succeeding steps, I will just add some highlights and accents on the board, like adding a nice
red stripe here. Don't forget to paint defender
and it's cast shadow. I simply use ocher and a bit of Shanna to paint defender, and a great color
for the cast shadow. Using some dots here and there, I place accents on the boat. Next, let's paint the
UI using Indian red, to build connection between
this one, and the board. Let's paint the ropes
with thick dry stroke, and we use the same mixture
to paint the front stage, and back stage of the mast. As our last step, I will add some finishing touches using
my opaque white paint. I usually put
highlights on ropes, some dots on the board
and reflections and seal. This is our final painting. Let's summarize what we
learned on the next video.
7. Key Learnings and Class Project: We've come to the
end of the course, and I hope you had a fun and learning filled
experience with me. Let's summarize the
important things that we must remember
in painting water. First, always remember
that the tone and shape are very
important elements. These two are the key
to achieving depth, aerial perspective, and dimension when painting
water and waves. Second, the reflection
is almost of the same size of the
object being reflected. The color of the reflection is affected by the color of
the object being reflected; the sky and the water. Third, to simplify
complex subjects, focus on painting big shapes. Add some spots of colors
that can help build the overall look of the
object without painting every detail and part that
you see in the reference. For class project, I want you to paint the
same painting that I did. If you carefully follow my steps and the
explanations that I shared, I'm sure that you
can do it well. I want to see your works and
how my classes help you, so it will be great if you
will upload your painting in the project section and
leave a class review too. I have 16 more watercolor
classes here on Skillshare, and I hope to see
you again there.