Transcripts
1. Introduction: Have you been curious
about quilting, but are a little
intimidated to take it on. Perhaps there's a quilt
pattern you've had your eye on or a gift that you'd like
to make for a loved one, but you're not exactly
sure where to begin. This quilting for beginner
series will walk you through the entire process of creating a quilt from beginning to end. And I'll break everything down
into really easy to follow steps to help guide you through the process of making
your first quilt. Hi, my name is Julie Ray. I'm a textile artist
based in Portland, Oregon in the United States. I've been making quilts and designing quilt
pattern since 2017, and I absolutely love
creating with fabric. When I was making
my first quilt, I had a really hard time finding a comprehensive resource that guided me through
all of the steps. And I often found myself frustrated trying to
find what to do next. For a long time, I've
wanted to create the class that I wish existed
when I began quilting. And this is that
class, whether you're new to quilting or an
experienced quilter, looking to refine your
skills and techniques. This series will help
guide you through the entire process from fabric
selection to final stitch. For ease of reference,
this series has been broken down
into multiple parts. In this class, which is
part one of the series, I'll guide you through
the entire process of making a quilt top. This class will cover
materials that you'll need. We'll talk about how to choose
and prepare your fabric. We'll take a close look
at a quilt pattern to make sure you understand
all of the components. We'll talk about how to set
up your sewing machine. And I'll share
with you some tips and techniques to accurately and efficiently cut and
sew your pieces of fabric together into
a beautiful design. In part two of this series, we'll take the quilt top that you create in this class and I'll walk you through a
few different options for finishing your quilt. This class was designed
for absolute beginners. No quilting experience
is necessary. However, it will
be helpful to have some basic knowledge of how
to operate a sewing machine. You know how to create a basic straight stitch on
the sewing machine. You're good to go for
students at this class. I've created a free
quilt pattern for you to download and follow
along with if you wish. However, if you have
another quilt pattern that you'd like to use,
that's perfectly fine. You'll be able to
follow along with this class using any
pattern that you wish. I can't wait to see the
beautiful work you create.
2. Class Project: For the final project
for part one of this class will be
creating a quilt top. Your Quilt Top can
be created from the free pattern that I've
provided with this lesson, which is available in
two different sizes. A wall hanging which is
smaller and more approachable if you're brand new to
quilting or baby-sized quilt, which is a bit larger
but also very doable. You can find this
free quilt pattern, which is called
between the lines in the Resources
section of this course. You can also create a quilt top from any pattern
of your choosing. Either way, take a photo
of your final quilt top and upload it to the project
section of this course. I also encourage you to
take photos of your work in progress so that we can
celebrate your wins, cheer you on, and see your
project as it transforms. So get excited. And the next lesson, we'll dive into some of the materials that
we will need to gather to start creating your
quilt. I'll see you there.
3. Materials and Supplies: In this lesson, we'll
talk about some of the materials and supplies you'll want to begin gathering. I recommend acquiring the highest quality
materials you can. It'll save you money
in the long run, not having to replace
cheap materials. It might seem like
a lot initially, but I promise if you
get into quilting, you'll use these all the time. The first and probably
most important item is of course, a sewing machine. I have a higher-end
machine and it has a lot of really
fancy features, but you do not need
something this elaborate to get started. The first quilt I made were on a used sewing machine
that I purchased for $50. Really, all you need is
a basic machine that can do a simple straight stitch
and you'll be good to go. If you're machine has
a quarter-inch foot, it's really useful
for accurate piecing. Many machines will come with one or offer one that you
can purchase separately. If you don't have one
though, no worries. I'll show you how to create
a quarter-inch guide on your machine in
an upcoming lesson, there are a few
notions you'll want to collect as you
begin your project. First, you'll want to
make sure you have the correct needles for
your sewing machine. I'd like to use
universal needles size 75/11 for sewing the
pieces of my quilt. You'll also want to
gather some Thread. I recommend a 50 weight
cotton thread in either a neutral color or an a color that matches the
fabric that you choose. A few other notions that
you'll find really handy, or some straight pins for securing your pieces of
fabric together before you. So some Thread scissors for trimming loose threads
and a siem repre, for any mistakes you might make. I'll admit I haven't
completed a project yet where I haven't used my
seam Ripper at least once, make friends with it
for cutting supplies. You'll want to cutting mat. I highly recommend a
self-healing cutting mat so that as you make cuts, the mat isn't left
with a bunch of marks. A rotary cutter. I use a 45 millimeter
rotary cutter for all of my projects. A pair of high-quality
fabric scissors and an acrylic ruler. If you just get
one acrylic ruler, I highly recommend the
six-inch by 24-inch. That's the one that you'll
find the most useful. If you're able to acquire
a second acrylic ruler, I recommend a square, perhaps a ten or 12 inch square. You'll also want to pick up
some supplies for pressing. You'll need an ironing
board or a pressing Matt such as this wool pressing
Matt you see here. And an iron, preferably one
that uses steam as this is going to help create flat
crisp seems in your quotes. In the Resources section, you'll find a complete list of recommended materials
and Supplies. And finally, you'll need fabric, but don't worry about
that quite yet. We're gonna do a deep dive into fabric options in
the next lesson.
4. Choosing Fabric: This lesson we'll talk a
little bit about Fabric. There are so many fabric
options out there that walking into a fabric store
can be a bit overwhelming. And honestly, shopping for fabric online can be even worse. This video, we'll discuss a few things to consider
when selecting fabric. First of all, if you're
new to quilting, I recommend sticking to quilting cotton as it's gonna be
the easiest to work with. Most fabric stores will have a pretty generous selection
of quilting cottons. Quilting cottons are offered in a wide variety of options, including solid
colors and prints. Solids are going to be
comprised of just one color, whereas prints will have some type of pattern
printed on them. Solid fabrics offer a
bold and modern look. While prints can add
variety and interest, though if you're not careful, they can feel a bit busy. You can also use a combination of solid fabric and prints, as in this example where
I used printed fabric for the triangles and a solid
for the background. If you decide to make your
quilt using printed fabric, there are a few questions
you may want to consider that can help you
choose fabrics for your quilt. Did the fabrics balance
larger boulder designs with our simpler designs so that the I will have a place to rest. This will help avoid your
quilt feeling too busy. Just the fabric print have
larger designs that will be lost if the fabric is
cut into smaller pieces, the fabric pattern have an
obvious directionality. This may result in
designs that appear upside down or sideways
in your final quilt, fabric shops will often
offer fabric bundles or they can help
you gather fabrics that would go well
together in your quilt. If there isn't a fabric shop
that's convenient for you, there are plenty online. I've linked a few of my
favorite online fabric shops in the Resources section, if you're feeling overwhelmed by all of the fabric choices, I recommend starting
really simple in the free quilt pattern that I've provided with this class, there's an option for
a two tone variation, which only requires you to
choose two different fabrics, a main color and a
background color. That would be a really good
place to start as you build your confidence and fabric
selection with this pattern, I've also included a color
inspiration page to give you some ideas of
what color palettes might work well
with this pattern. Check this out if you're looking for some additional inspiration, honestly try not
to overthink it. I'm really good at
that and it never helps go with your gut. The best way to find color
palettes that you like and really resonate with
is just to try some out. So go for it. I'll
share the fabric that I've chosen to use
for this project. I'm going to be
using the between the lines quilt pattern
to make two quotes. The first will be the
two tone wall hanging. I'm gonna be using fabrics from the conus
solids collection. I'll use Yaro for the background and snow for the main fabric. I also plan to make
a baby-sized quilt using the scrappy variation. For this one, I've chosen fabrics from the Art
Gallery, fabrics, pure solids collection
in the colors nocturnal, Mediterranean, spruce,
fresh sage, and Nebula. And I'll use white linen
for the background. So take some time to decide on what fabrics you'd like
to use for your quilt. In the next lesson, we'll talk about how to prepare
your fabric for quilting. I'll meet you there.
5. Preparing Your Fabric: In this lesson, we're
going to talk about how to best prepare your
fabric for quilting. Now there are some
differing opinions out there about how to best
prepare your fabric. I'll share some of the most
common options that I tend to come across and share with
you what I tend to do. I live in the US, so
I'll be referring to yards in inches as I
discussed, measurements. But the same concepts apply if you're working within
the metric system, most quilting fabric you
purchase will be 42-44 " wide and is generally sold
by the yard or by the meter. So if you purchase
a yard of fabric, the total measurement
will be 42 or 44 " wide, 1 yd or 36 ". The edge that runs
perpendicular to the cut edge is
called the salvage. This edge is finished
and may contain information about the
designer, manufacturer, and in some printed fabric may also contain color
swatches that can be really useful if
you're trying to find colors that coordinate
with the Fabric. Fabric has generally
sold folded in half with a salvage is touching. It's useful to keep it this way. And you'll see why when we
get to the cutting lesson, let's talk briefly
about how woven fabric, which is the kind
of fabric used most often in quilting,
is constructed. Woven fabric is made up of two sets of threads that
are woven together. The threads that
run vertically or parallel to the salvage
are called the warp. Horizontal threads which run perpendicular to the
salvage edge are called the weft unless a quilt pattern instructs
you to do otherwise. You always want to
cut your fabric in the same direction as the
weft or the warp threads, as opposed to cutting
them diagonally, which is called the bias. Cutting on the
bias can result in stretched and distorted
fabric that may impact accurate
piecing in your quote, one characteristic
of cotton is that it tends to shrink if
it's washed and dried. One question that many
quilter is disagree on is whether or not to pre wash your fabric before quilting. There isn't really a
writer or wrong answer as to whether or not to
pre wash Your Fabric. But here are a few
different pros and cons of each that can help you decide which option
is best for you. Pre washing Your Fabric can
have certain advantages. First of all, it
pretty shrinks all of the fabric before
you begin sewing. It also might mean
that your colors are less likely to bleed in the washing machine
when you wash your quilt after it's finished. It also, however,
may mean that you need to purchase
additional yardage in order to account
for the amount that shrinks pre washing Your Fabric can also be quite time-consuming as it requires you to wash, dry, press, and refold all
of your fabric yardage. If you choose not to
pre wash your fabric, your fabrics will be ready to go as soon as you get them home. If you're worried about colors bleeding in the washing machine, you can use a color Kutcher
to help avoid this. And washing a finished quilt
will often give this quilt a very classic crinkling look that adds a really
beautiful texture. You can also handwash
your quilt and hang it to dry to help limit the amount
that the fabric shrinks. Personally, I almost
never pre wash my fabric, but that's just me. There's a lot of quilter is
out there that swear by it. So as you continue on
your quilting journey, maybe you want to
try out both ways and see what works best for you. In the next lesson,
we're going to take a really close look
at a quilt pattern and break down each
of the components to make sure you know
exactly how to read it.
6. Reading A Quilt Pattern: Before we begin the process
of creating our quilt, let's take a close look at a quilt pattern so that
we can understand each of the components and have
a big overall picture of the process before we begin. Every quilt pattern will
vary a bit of course, but most quilt patterns follow a basic structure and
include similar components. I'll be walking you
through my between the lines quilt pattern which is available as a free
download with this class. Feel free to download it and print it off if
you'd like to follow along the front cover
of a quilt pattern, we'll provide some
basic information and details about the quilt. It'll generally include the name of the quilt, the designer, and perhaps some
additional information such as what sizes
are available for this quilt and what level of expertise this quilt
pattern is recommended for. Next, there'll often be some
information about the quilt. This might include
a description of the inspiration or the design. It'll also describe any
variations in the quilt. For example, in my between
the lines quilt pattern, there's two size options, A wall hanging size
and a baby quilt size. There are also two
variations for each. A two toned version that just uses two different fabrics and a scrappy version provides the opportunity to use
multiple fabrics in the quilt. Most quilt patterns will provide some information
that's important to read before beginning. My patterns always include a suggestion to read
the entire pattern before beginning just to give you an overall picture
of the process. I think that's a good practice for any pattern
that you're using. This section of a quilt
pattern will also offer information
about seam allowances, which is typically a quarter
of an inch for quilts. And will also define some abbreviations that might
be used in the pattern. For example, in my pattern, I use the abbreviation OF to stand for the
width of fabric, which as I mentioned in
the previous lesson, is generally about 42 44 ". A couple other abbreviations I use throughout
this quilt pattern are to stand for fat quarter and eight to
stand for a fat eighth. And these are just
two common cuts of fabric that you might
find in a fabric shop. Next we're going to get
into fabric requirements. This might look like it
has a lot of information, but you really only need
to pay attention to the information
that's relevant to the size and version
that you're making. For example, I mentioned
that I'm planning to make a two tone version
of the wall hanging. This table tells me
that for this quilt, I'll need an eighth of
a yard of fabric A, and 23 of a yard of fabric B. I'm also planning to make a scrappy version
of the baby quilt. As you can see here,
it tells me exactly how much of each fabric I'll
need to make this quilt. I also have some
information here about how much fabric I'll need for the backing and the
binding of the quilt. Just as a reminder, if you do decide to pre
wash your fabric, you'll want to plan to
purchase additional yardage, maybe an extra eighth
or quarter of a yard. All right, let's move on next to the cutting instructions. This again, looks like
a lot of information, but just like with the
fabric requirements, you really only need
to pay attention to the information
that's relevant to the size and version
quilt that you're making. I can find the
cutting instructions for the two toned
wall hanging here. If I'm making a
scrappy baby quilt, I can find the cutting
instructions for that here. If you're a little confused by how to read the
cutting table, we'll cover that in
the next lesson, where we actually begin
to cut our fabric. You'll also want to note
the section that offers cutting instructions
for the backing and the binding of the quilt. Since you won't need those
pieces for the quilt top, you can decide if you
want to cut those with your other pieces
or if you want to save that for when you're
ready to finish your quilt. Generally, after the
cutting instructions, you'll move on to
how to actually sew your pieces together
to create the quilt. This will vary a lot from quilt
pattern to quilt pattern. Most quilts are constructed
by having you sew smaller pieces into
larger blocks, or in the case of this pattern,
into individual strips. And once those are complete, taking the blocks or strips and sewing them together to
create the final quilt top. You can see that in the between
the lines quilt pattern, I have the instructions broken down by size and variation. There's a page outlining how to construct the two tone
version of the wall hanging. A page providing the steps for the scrappy version
of the wall hanging. And then instructions for each variation of
the baby quilt. Once your quilt top is complete, most quilt patterns will offer some finishing
instructions. But in my experience and
even in my own patterns, the instructions for finishing a quilt are pretty minimal. And assume you
already know how to do it on your own as
a beginner quilter, this is the step
where I got stuck. Part two of this class
is going to cover everything that's included in
the finishing instructions, but in much more detail. Many quilt patterns will
also include a coloring page for you to print and plan your colors before you
purchasing fabric. At this point, hopefully you've gathered all of your materials. You've decided what pattern you'd like to use
for your quilt. You've decided on your fabrics, and you've made sure
that you have enough of each fabric to
make your quilt. If you'd like to pre
wash your fabric, now would be a great
time to do that. In the next lesson,
we're going to get started with our quilt by learning some tips on cutting your fabric. I'll see you there.
7. Cutting Fabric: Now let's get to the Fun part of actually making our quotes. In this lesson, I'll
go over some tips and techniques for
cutting your fabric. For this step,
you'll need all of the fabrics that you plan to be cutting for your quilt top. Cutting mat and acrylic
ruler and a rotary cutter. Before you began cutting, you will want to give Your
Fabric a good press with your iron to remove any creases. Be sure to keep the fabric
folded in half so that the salvage is meat as will be cutting Fabric folded this way. Wanted to consider before
you start cutting, is how you will organize your
pieces once they're cut. I will generally use
labels that I make from painter's tape
or sticky note. Especially if I'm
cutting fabric for a pattern that uses
lots of pieces. The next step is to
square up our fabric. To do this, I'll
place my fabric on the cutting mat folded in half so that the
salvage is meat. Then I will align the short
edge of my ruler with the folded edge of the fabric and cut off any excess here. To cut, I hold the rotary
cutter in my dominant hand, which is in my case
my right hand. And I'll use my
non-dominant hand to hold the ruler down securely. Then starting at the end
that's closest to my body, I'll cut along the
edge of the ruler, being mindful of
fingers and making sure to always cut
away from my body. Then turn your fabric around 90 degrees so that you're
ready to make your first cut. Let's look at our
cutting table to see the instructions for
cutting fabric a. It says here that I
need to cut two pieces that are 2 " wide by
the width of fabric. And then I will be sub
cutting these strips into smaller pieces to cut
with the fabric strips, I'll use the same
technique that we used to square off our fabric, aligned the short edge of your ruler with the
fold of the fabric. And the top cut part
of the fabric with the mark indicating the desired
measurement on the ruler. Hold your rotary cutter
with your dominant hand. Secure the ruler down with
your non-dominant hand. Being mindful to keep
fingers out of the path of the rotary cutter than starting at the end
closest to your body. Make a single-pass, moving the rotary
cutter away from you. If your rotary cutter is sharp, one path should be enough. However, if you do need
to do a second pass, be sure to cut in the same
direction that you made your first pass width
rather than bringing the rotary cutter back
towards you. Here's a tip. If you need to make with
the fabric cuts that are wider than your
acrylic ruler will allow. For this technique, you'll
need a second acrylic ruler. I'm using my 10.5 inch square to act as an extension
of my long ruler. Say for example, I need
a strip that's 9 " wide. My long acrylic ruler is only
six and-a-half inches wide. To make a nine inch wide cut, I'll simply put my square ruler and my rectangular
ruler together. And then a line up the
mark that adds up to 9 " with the raw
edge of my fabric. I'll double-check to make sure my long ruler is squared
up with the other ruler. And that it's also squared with the folded edge
before I make my cut. The saying of measure twice and cut once definitely
applies here. Now that I have all of my width, the fabric strips cut, I can sub cut them according
to the cutting instructions. For efficiency, I
generally keep my fabric folded so that I can
cut two pieces at once. First, I'll use my
ruler to trim off the salvage edges so that I have a nice clean
edge to work with. Line up your ruler
with the edge of the fabric until you have
your desired measurement. Again, I suggest following the rule of measure
twice and cut once. There's nothing worse than
cutting incorrectly and wasting precious fabric
with faulty cuts. When some cutting my strips, I generally always cut
the largest pieces first and work my way
to the smaller pieces. This ensures I use the
fabric most efficiently. The scrappy versions of the between the lines quilt pattern. You'll notice that there are no instructions for cutting
with the fabric strips. In this case, just
cut the pieces using the quantity and measurements indicated in the cutting table. Once all of my Fabric
API pieces are cut, I can move on to Fabric be
accuracy here is important. The more accurate
you make your cuts, the easier your quilt will be to piece and the cleaner your
final design will look. So really take your time with this step before moving
onto the next lesson. Go ahead and cut out all of the fabric that you'll need for your quilt and add labels
to the pieces if you wish. I'll meet you in the next
lesson where we'll get our sewing machine
setup for piecing
8. Setting Up Your Machine: In this lesson, we're
just going to make sure our sewing machines are
set up for piecing. Piecing requires a
lot of accuracy. And so having the
proper settings on your machine can help ensure that your quilt will
come out as best as possible. In quilting, all the
pieces are generally sewn together using a
quarter inch seam allowance. That means that when sewing two pieces of fabric together. So the line of stitching
a quarter-inch from the edge to help keep my seam
as accurate as possible, I use a quarter-inch foot
like this one that has a guide to ensure a
perfect quarter inch seam. If you don't have a
quarter-inch foot, you can just use a
standard presser foot that Your Machine came with
and use a guiding line. And if you don't have
a quarter-inch foot or a guideline on your machine, you can make your own
using painter's tape. Measure a quarter-inch
from your needle to the right and place a piece of Painter's tape
down as a guide. If this piece of tape is
covering up the plate, you need to access your bobbin, go ahead and adjust
this as needed. Next, make sure that
your machine is setup to make a straight stitch. I like to use a stitch
length of 1.8 to 2.0 when piecing my
fabric together. If I'm just piecing
straight lines like this, I generally stick
to 2.0 and I'll use the shorter stitch
length if I'm doing curves. You can refer to your
sewing machines manual to see how to change
the stitch length. If you're unsure as
each machine will be a little bit
different at this point, you'll also want to
prepare your iron by turning it on and
adding water for steam will be using our iron a lot as we began to
piece are quilt together. And now we're all set up. In the next lesson, we'll begin sewing the pieces
of our quilt top together. I'll meet you there.
9. Piecing Your Quilt Top: This lesson, we'll begin sewing the pieces of
our quilt together. This is the magical
part where we get to see our design come to life. In this lesson, I'll
offer some tips and techniques for accurate
and efficient piecing. Now most filter constructed
by sewing small pieces of fabric together to form
larger blocks or strips. And then later those
blocks or strips are sewn together to create
the entire quilt top. If you're following
along with my pattern, you'll see that
we're going to be creating strips in this lesson. If you're doing a
block-based quilt, you'll first work on
constructing each of the individual blocks that
will make up your final quilt. So let's begin with
our first pieces. When sewing two pieces
of fabric together, you'll want to pay attention
to the right side. That is the side that will
be facing you when you see the quilt and
the wrong side, that's the side
that will be behind the quilt that won't be seen. Since I'm using solid fabrics, I can choose either to be the right or the
wrong side for now. If however you're using a
printed fabric such as this, there is a clear
right and wrong side. Whenever your sewing, you wanna make sure that the right
sides are touching. Looking at my pattern
instructions, I'm going to start with my two inch by
three-and-a-half inch pieces of fabric a and my two inch by eight inch pieces
of fabric be. And according to
the instructions, I'm going to be creating
strips like this. So let's say this is going to be the right
side of my quilter, the front of my quilt. I'll start by sewing Nice
two pieces together. I'm going to flip this over so that the right
sides are touching. And I'm going to so my
seam along this line. It can be helpful
to use pins to hold the juror two
pieces of fabric in place while you move them
to the sewing machine. So I might just place to straight pins like this
to hold them in place. And if you do
choose to use pins, just be careful that
when you so your seam, you remove your pins rather
than sewing over them. Because if your needle happens to hit one of the
pins, it can break. Let's move this over
to the sewing machine. Have my two pieces
right sides together. I'm going to bring it
over to the sewing machine and line up this raw edge with my
quarter inch mark. Then I lower my presser
foot and begin to. So if you're using pins, be sure to remove them
rather than sewing over them and try to maintain that quarter inch seam
allowance the entire time. There's my first scene. Then I can take my piece. I'm going to open it up. And I want to press
the seam open. I like to press them
open whenever I can. I find it makes for
a nice flat scene. In some instances I may want to press my seems to the side. And if I'm doing that, I always press them towards
the darker fabric. That way they're
not going to show through on the quilt top. But for now I'm going
to press them open. So I'm going to hold my
iron down and lift it up. You wanna be careful
not to move your iron back-and-forth because that can shift and distort your fabric. Then I'm going to come back. And also the second
piece to the side. Flip it over so that
the right sides are touching and pin them together
to hold them in place. I'll bring it over to
the sewing machine, line up my edge with
the quarter-inch mark. And so my scene. Come back to my pricing table. Many use my finger
to press that seam open and then use my
iron to flatten it out. Sometimes I'll flip it over and give it a nice press
from the front as well. We have our first piece. Now you can so all of
your pieces following instructions in your
pattern in this way. But if you have a lot of
the same pieces to be sown, you can speed up the process
of it by chain piecing. Essentially, chain piecing is
when you so multiple pieces together without
cutting the thread in-between, creating a chain. To use the chain
piecing technique, begin by taking the
first two pieces that you'd like to sew together, place them right sides touching the same as
you would normally. When you get to the
end of the stitch. We've the pieces there
without cutting the thread. Then you'll begin sewing
the next two pieces together directly behind the
first scene that was sewn. When you get to the end, leave the pieces there
without cutting the thread, and continue on until you have all of your
pieces so together. When you're done sewing all
of your pieces together, you can take your Thread
scissors and snip the threads that are connecting
each of your pieces. Then take it to
your pressing mat and press your seams open. For the scrappy baby quilt, I'm not going to use
chain piecing because each row is made up
of unique pieces. So for this quilt, I'm
gonna look at row one, gather the pieces that
I need and lay them out as pictured in the diagram
and the pattern instructions. Then also each piece
together one-by-one, pressing all of my
seams open along the way until I have
the final stroke. Following the pattern
instructions. I'll construct each
strip this way. When I'm done, I'll be sure
to add labels to each row. Now there might be times
when you find that you've sown two pieces
together and correctly, I've done it 1 million times. Here's a little tip on
using your seam Ripper. Use the sharp edge to make
a couple of breaks and your SIM placed the point under the Thread
and make a break. Then gently open up
your scene and place the blunted point of the seam Ripper
underneath the Thread. Then very slowly
and carefully push the seam Ripper along the same cutting the
threads as you go. You want to be sure that
the blunted point of the seam Ripper stays
below the scene and the sharp edge of
the scene reverse stays above and out of the way so that it doesn't catch Your Fabric and create a whole. This takes a little practice
to get the hang of, but it's a really quick
and efficient way to undo any mistakes
that you might make. If you're following along with the pattern that I've provided, continue piecing until you have all of your strips completed. If you're following along with another pattern that
perhaps uses blocks, go ahead and continue
piecing until you have all of your
blocks completed. The next lesson, we'll take
these pieces and sew them together to create
the final quilt top. I'll see you there.
10. Assembling Your Quilt Top: In this lesson, we'll
finish our quilt top by sewing all of your
strips or blocks together. Before sewing my strips
or blocks together, I first like to lay out all of the pieces I have into
the final arrangement. This helps ensure everything is sewn in the correct order. I've pinned up a
piece of batting to the wall to lay out my strips. You could also lay your
final pieces out on a floor or a table
depending on your space. Then I'll take my
first two pieces, flip them so that
the right sides are together and
sew them together. And then just like we did
in the previous lesson, I'll open up the
scene with my finger and then press the seam
open with my iron. In the case of this quilt, where I'm sewing many
strips together, I'm first going to
so together the pairs. Then I'll go back. And so those pairs together follow the instructions
on the quilt pattern that you're using to see
suggestions for how to best construct
your final quilt top. When you finished sewing all
of your pieces together, give Your Quilt Top one
final press to help set the seams and get everything
to lay nice and flat. Congratulations, Your
Quilt Top is complete. The next lesson, I'll
offer some final thoughts and provide some suggestions for next steps for your quilt.
11. Final Thoughts and Next Steps: You've done it. You've
taken raw fabric, cut it up, sewn it back together to create a
beautiful work of art. I can't wait to see the
beautiful work that you created. So be sure to take a photo of your quilt and upload it
to the project section. Sharing your project
will help us celebrate your hard work and it help inspire others who
are just beginning. Now your quilt top is finished, but there's still
some more work to do to complete your final quilt. Join me in part two of this course where we'll pick up from here and learn how to baste quilt and bind your final quilt. In part two, I'll offer a few different
options for finishing your quilt so that
you can end up with a final piece that hasn't
your own personal touch. You can find part two linked
section of this course. If you're not already, be sure to follow me on skill share and that will ensure you're notified whenever I
have a new release. I would also love it if you would leave a review
for this course. Leaving a review
will help others find this course
and will provide valuable feedback for me as I continue to create quality
courses in the future. Thank you so much
for joining me. I can't wait to see
the beautiful work that you start putting
out in the world. Bye bye.
Juli Rae Vignola, Textile artist, surface designer
