Practicing Brush Work - Using a Dagger Brush to Loosen up with Watercolour | Nadine Dudek | Skillshare

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Practicing Brush Work - Using a Dagger Brush to Loosen up with Watercolour

teacher avatar Nadine Dudek, Professional Watercolour Artist

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      2:01

    • 2.

      Materials

      2:03

    • 3.

      Cathedral - Fine Marks with The Tip of the Brush

      3:25

    • 4.

      Tulip - Using the Heel of the Brush for Curves

      4:30

    • 5.

      Japanese Temple - Mixing Up the Strokes and Letting the Pigments Mix on the Page

      7:00

    • 6.

      A Final Word

      0:57

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About This Class

In this class you'll be doing three small excercises designed to practice painting with a dagger brush

In this lesson you will 

  • paint quickly without sketching
  • vary the angle of the brush to paint on the tip or the side to achieve different shapes
  • allow pigments to mix on the page not just the palette

 The class is broken into three short stand alone lessons so you can dip in and out.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Nadine Dudek

Professional Watercolour Artist

Top Teacher

Hi, I'm Nadine,

I'm an Australian watercolour artist with a particular interest in wildlife art. I love the spontaneity of watercolour and the wonderful effects that can be achieved with very little input. I strive to keep my paintings loose and love the challenge of drawing the viewer into the work through a well placed shadow or detail.

For me, the quicker the painting and the fewer the strokes the better the result. I endeavour to teach my students to relax and remember - it's just a piece of paper.

To see more of my work head over to my website or find me on instagram, YouTube and facebook


See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi, I'm Nadine. I'm a watercolor artist from Melbourne, Australia, and I wanted to do a quick little class with you today that's made up of three little lessons all really short that are aimed at practicing brushwork and specifically brush work with a dagger brush. It's a beautiful brush to work with, and I think it's really important to practice your brush skills if you want to be really nice and loose in your watercolor. And I like a dagger brush because you can do a whole lot of different marks. So you can come up onto the tip and get really fine detail, but you can also come onto the side of the brush and do really broad strokes. A, they're a little bit hard to control, so it forces you to be a little bit loose. So what I want to do today is three little exercises. One's a little cathedral that's off in the distance and it's really painting with the tip of the brush and letting the pigments mixed together on the page. The second is a tulip where we'll use broad brush stroke, the heel of the brush to get a beautiful curved shape. So quite different from the cathedral. Then the third is the little Japanese temple. And it's combining using the tip of the brush and also the side of the brush. So we're getting fine strokes, and we're getting really big bold strokes as well. And so it's not designed to be full on paintings. This is really sitting down with scraps of paper and trying to just relax into it and be really free and loose. So I'm not getting you to sketch for this. This is painting straight onto the page. And I have sent it because of that, I have set it to intermediate. I don't know that it really needs to be intermediate, but the painting is fast, and I do intentionally, I want you to be fast with this. I don't want you to think at all with this one, but I still think that by the end, you should be pretty happy, and I want you to be looser in your wrist and a bit more confident about just making some marks on the page. Let's get started. 2. Materials : So materials for the lesson today. So to start off with, I'm painting on a board. I'm painting on a slight angle, and more maybe one or two of them I tape down. It's probably handy to take down just with some regular masking tape for this one, because I'm using little bits of paper. Now, the paper is 300 gram arches, cold press paper. And I've torn it into lots of little bits for this exercise. You don't need a pencil or an eraser for this, I want you to paint straight onto the paper. I don't want you to be sketching up for this. Now, for the reference photos, if I'm using a reference, I've included actually in the video. I'm not giving you a reference photo to printout because I don't want you to get hung up on looking at the reference photo. I just want you to be able to glance at it every now and then, each reference photo that I've used is within the actual video. Now, in terms of paints, using a bunch, you don't have to use all these. For the little Cathedral here, I've got some permanent rose from Winthro and Newton and some cobot blue. Also from Windsor and Newton. For the tulip, I've got some Hansi yellow medium and Pyl red from Daniel Smith and some sap green from Holbein. Not for any particular reason other than I wanted to try because I saw someone else using it. If you don't have a green, I usually mix up my own green so you could just as easily use the Hansi yellow with one of the blues for the green here. For the little Temple, I've got the Hansi yellow, the Pyl red. I'm using some French ultra and I think that's all we need for that one. If we move then onto the brush now the brush is really important. So it's a dagger brush, and I've got the details of this brush up on the material section on the side. Now, we want to be painting on the tip here and also on the side of the brush. Doesn't matter if it's not this brand, but it needs to be a dagger. Now, in terms of there anything else, all you need is a palette, jar of water, and some tissues and we're right to get going. 3. Cathedral - Fine Marks with The Tip of the Brush: Okay, so what we're going to do for the first one is we're going to do a cathedral off in the distance. And for this one, I'm happy for you to look at a few reference photos. I've got a couple for you to look at here, but I just want you to get the idea in your head. I don't want you to get caught up on looking at a reference photo and then trying to paint exactly what's there. This is all about using your imagination, letting the brush do the work for you, and seeing what happens. Now, I am going to look at my color wheel, which is something I do occasionally, not very often. I'm going to for this first one, stick in this blue violet, red violet range. So I'm going to use some cobalt and I've got some permanent rose. Right. So what we're going to imagine is that we've got a spire on the left, maybe a big spire on the left, a bit of a rectangle for a building, bit of a spire on the right, and there are some buildings on either side. I'm going to come up initially onto the tip of my brush and paint a bit of a triangle for the first spire. But I don't want you to really heavily paint a triangle. The rigor is hard to control. We want fairly loose strokes. So I'm touching into my cobalt and my permanent rose. So I've got a bit of a milky mix of a purple coming up onto my tip. And just painting loosely in a bit of a spire. So I've got lots of little bits of white paper in there. That's fine. Now I'm going to grab some more, maybe a bit more of my purple. I'm going to come down to the side of the brush now, give myself a bit of a building. So I'm going to pull that across. So still, nice and messy, I've got mixing colors in there. Come up to the tip again, maybe a smaller spire or Oh, actually, I didn't get that. Maybe I'll do two um, well, I don't know what you call them, the rectangles that are so more notre dami I guess, kind of on the side there, so the shorter ones. I should look up these words before I actually start to teach. Alright, then I'm going to tidy up that rectangle a bit, picking up my blue, picking up my pink. And now you imagine there are some stuff happening. On the side here as well. I don't know what it is. There are some other buildings in here, you know, you don't often see a cathedral by itself. It's usually nestled in amongst other things. So I'm going to get my brush, put it in some water. I'm just now painting with water. I'm going to paint up to this. And then in a couple of spots, I'm just going to let that touch. Now, my room's really warm because I'm all of a sudden I've got my heater on, so there's not much movement there. So now I'm going to pick up again, my permanent rose and my cobalt, and I'm going to throw a bit of paint. Into that just so that there's something happening in the foreground. Now, as that's drying, I'm going to pick up some more solid paint of both of them and just drag a few more bits of paint around the place. And if there are any whites that aren't like they're helping me, I can close them in. And then just picking up a little bit more solid paint and throwing in a few windows, again, while it's all still wet, then I'm going to come out of that and let that dry. 4. Tulip - Using the Heel of the Brush for Curves: Now all of that was up on the tip of the brush. Well, most of it was up on the tip. What about the side of the brush? What marks can we make with that? I'm going to do a quick little tulip for that to show you. I'm going to pick up a little bit of yellow, little bit of red. So I've got my orange. I'm going to pop the tip on the page, but I'm going to press into the heel. I make that a shape. Come onto the other side, do the same, and then I'm just going to roughly tidy up a little bit in there. Then I'm going to grab. Actually I might join. Join those two. All right. Then I'm going to grab some sap green and do a stem while this is all still wet, important to just keep moving. So I should have taped down because this is a little bit movable. Got a stem. Then I'm going to pop in a leaf bit more sap green. Here, I'm going to tip, push down, come in to join the stem, do the same on the other side, tip, push down, come in to roughly join. Now, while this is still wet, I'm going to wash the green off my brush. Then I'm going to pick up really thick toothpaste consistency red. I'm going to drop it into the base. Let that run into the stem, that's fine. But I'm also going to pop. Yeah, you get those sort of ruffled edge tulips. So on this open edge here, I'm just going to whack a bit of red down and then drag it through, you know, the overlap as the petal comes in to wrap around. And then a little bit on that side. Wash my brush. Then I want to make the water do the work for me. I put all this pigment on, but now I'm going to drop in water and let it all move around. And then I've dropped it in, so it's moving the pigment and then I'm kind of wing it off because I want interesting things to happen. If you've done any of my classes by now, you know I'm a lazy painter. So I want stuff that I don't have to work for. Just before it dries, I'm going to restate the red just down the bottom. Just rounding that up. So this brush just makes the perfect curve for the bottom of that tulip. I'm going to sit, let that dry for a second, pop a couple of details on, and then we'll keep going. All right. So I've got my sap green, and I'm just going to pop a little bit of French ultra in to make it a little bit darker. Then we take that mix, and I'm going to come on with that tip of the brush, push down, and pull that through and leave a flash of light on the side of the leaf. Okay. Then on the other side, I'm going to do the same thing. Now I'm going to push onto the tip, then push down, leave that light on the edge and join it into the stem. And then I'm going to pop just a little bit of the dark, just underneath the base of the flour onto the stem, just to give it a little bit of a shadow underneath. And probably I'm just going to strengthen up my yellow my orange, I think, on that bottom of the chalk, and then I'll stop mucking. So I'm just coming on I'm dry there. Just want to strengthen up red and yellow sometimes can get a bit pale. So keep reminding yourself messy is fine. Like, it doesn't matter that I've got these little bleeds up here and I've got the little flick out there. It's neither here nor there. What matters is where you pick to put a couple of darts, put a couple of contrast. So here, this little light to the dark is important. This little shadow underneath the bottom of the chirp is important. So those little sort of details let you get away with messiness everywhere else. So lovely for the up on your tip brush throats, but also great for these beautiful beautiful shapes. Don't come out and let that dry. Oh 5. Japanese Temple - Mixing Up the Strokes and Letting the Pigments Mix on the Page: Long skinny bit of paper now. We're going to do a bit of a Japanese temple. Got a photo from my sister. I don't want you to blow I don't want you to zoom into it. I just want you to get the basic idea of the shapes. We've got a couple of roofs here. I'm not going to worry about the buildings, and I just want a bit of a flash of trees. Now, this is practice on brushwork and letting the paint mix on the page forming different bleeds. So again, not a proper painting. This is practice. So I'm going for. I've got some French ultra in my well here. Milky. I've got a little bit of Pyl red because I've been messy in here, so a bit of a gray, really. I'm going to start on the right, give myself a little bit of that top it, then I'm coming into the roof. Milky wash. Got a bit of a blue and a bit of a red in there and messy. I'm not overthinking that. I'm going to pop my brush now in the orange and say, there's a bit of a building under there, back to the blue. Well, the blue and red. Now I've got my next roof line. Now. What I don't want to do I don't have to paint in all those white bits of paper, but what I do need to do is give the pigment somewhere to run. I need to make sure that these shapes join up at some point. Another bit of orange there, wash my brush back into my blue and red. And you can see how messy that is and it's not like the reference, but it's okay. It's just the guide. A bit more of my orange down here. Now, a couple of things I'm going to do. I'm going to grab some water. I don't want to paint the wall underneath that's on the reference, and I want to have some trees coming down the side here. I'm going to come up and touch to that bottom of the building, grab some red, a little bit of my French ultra as well, and just chuck some stuff. Into the side here. I've got a mix of wet paper and dry paper up on the tip for the dry. I'm going to throw a bit more water on here. Then I'm going to grab a bit more blue, I think, and just chuck a bit of that. Now, while that's all drying, I think I probably want to track a little bit over this side. I'm going to ignore the building that's in the reference, but I'm going to pop a little bit of color on this side. Then I'm going to pick up some pyl red. I'm still wet, everything's still wet. I'm going to drag a couple of fine lines. Again, brush tip of the brush, beautiful loose little strokes. Into that wet paint where I've got coming into the wet some on the dry, so I get a real mixture of strokes. Okay. Now I want to stick a few harder darks in here. So I'm still quite wet. I'm getting all these beautiful bleeds in together, getting these colors mixing, which is what I want. But now I want to have less water on my brush than my page, and I'm going to take a bit of the Pyl red and a bit of a French ultra to make a really thick dark. I feel like I've got some sap green in there somewhere, so I keep getting bits of green. Less water on my brush than my page. If you're not sure that you've got less water on your brush than your page, paint the tissue until you know that you're nice and dry. Before I'm fully dry on the page, I'm going to drag a few of those darks. Because I'm not quite dry, so I'm getting a little bit of spread, but it's still holding pretty tight. Then I'm just going to do that in a few places maybe the odd line in that roof, just to add a bit more interest. And then I think because I can't help myself, I'm going to just throw a few little bits and pieces that dark around. All I'm going to do is suggest a bit I don't want to paint a background on that. That's not what this is about. I know I keep saying that, but I'm just going to give the mere suggestion of a mountain in the background. Onto the dry paper with a touch of that I've got really milky French ultra and my red mix. I've got to be a bit careful. I don't mind a bit of bleeding in the building. I don't want to have it take off on me and spread absolutely everywhere. You could wait until it was dry, but I like the accidents. I often find a nicer than trying to plant. A little bit of color. Coming down on this side too, maybe a bit more of the blue. I was drying there, I've just wet it down with dirty water effectively. Okay. Now, I have to let that fully dry, and then I'm going to pop a little shadow underneath each of the roof lines, but I have to let that really settle in. So coming out of that, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, and then we'll come back. Okay, it's been 5 minutes, and I'm nice and dry. So now I'm just going to take a milkier wash of the dark that I use for those. And I'm just going to pop just a bit of a shadow under each of those us And then that's it. That's all I'm gonna do. So super simple. But I'm wanting you to get the joy of all these bleeds that move through and see what the pigment will do for you. 6. A Final Word : So I know that that was really quick paint, but I want you to try and keep it fast because I don't want you to have time to stress and worry. I want you to see what you can do with the brush when you move quickly, when you let the pigments mix together. When you come up on the tip of the brush, when you come to the side, leave lots of bits of white paper, really let the medium do the work for you. And sometimes, I think you're trying to judge it while you're actually painting it. And with watercolor, it always looks better when it dries. Well, it always looks different when it dries. So you can't really judge while you're midway through. So I want you to relax into it and just have some fun. I would love you to post a few pictures of your finished little paintings up on the project section on the Skillshare site for me to have a look at. So thanks for joining me.