Photography For Beginners | All You Need To Start

1. Welcome To The Course: Hello everybody and welcome to an exciting journey into the world of Photography. My name is Mario, and I'll be your teacher through God, these amazing Beginner scores. Have you ever looked at stunning photograph and wonder, how did they capture that moment so beautifully? Well, my friends, that is exactly what we're going to exploring this course. Photography isn't ART form that allows us to freeze moments in time and create visual stories that can evoke emotions, spark the imagination, leave a lasting impression. And this course is all about unlocking your creative potential and empowering you to capture those incredible images yourself through held the course will cover three fundamental pillars of photography, Light, the Light Triangle, and composition. These pillars are the building blocks that will help you understand how to create visually compelling images. We'll start with light. Light is the essence of photography, understanding its qualities and how it interacts with your subject is crucial without light, there's no photo. As simple as that, we will learn how to manipulate and control Light to achieve the desired effect in your photographs. Then we'll talk about the Light Triangle. It consists of aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO. These three elements work together to control the Exposure and creative aspects of your photographs. You learn how to manipulate them to capture the perfect balance of Light and also understanding the Light Triangle you be able to shoot on manual mode. You will understand you're coming up more than we will talk about composition as another key element. It's all about arranging the elements that you have within the frame to create a visually pleasing and balance imaged. By the end of this course, you'll not only have solid understanding of the technical aspects of photography, but you'll also have the creative confidence to shoot in manual mode. You'll be able to take control of your camera and capture stunning images that truly represent your unique perspective. Whether you're aspiring to be a photographer or simply someone who loves to capture beautiful moments. This course is designed for you. No prior experience is required. Just bring your passion for photography and we'll embark on this incredible journey together, you get ready to unleash your creativity, discovered the power of Light, and learn The Art of composition. Join me in this photography course and let's capture the world one frame at the time 2. Introduction To Photography: Photography is all about capturing moments, telling stories, and unleashing your creativity. It's like painting with light, which is the Greek. You freeze time and create ART. Isn't that amazing? Now let's talk about the key elements you need to know to become a fantastic photographer composition, lightning, and perspective. Composition is like the foundation of a photograph. It's how you arrange the elements in your frame and create a visually pleasing image. Lightning is the magic ingredient in photography. It can make or break a shot. You remember natural light is your best friend, but don't be afraid to experiment with artificial light to remember that light is the most important thing in photography. Without light, there's no picture. And you will see during this course that basically everything is related to Light. Perspective is what gives your photographs depth and dimension. Don't be afraid to change your point of view and explore different angles. Get low, get high, and find that unique perspective that makes your photo standout. Now that you understand the basics, it is time to understand Light and remember what I said. Without light, there is no photo. So let's go to the next lesson and let's talk about Light 3. The Light Triangle: Like I mentioned before, Light is everything in a photo. And for that you need to let light touch the sensor of your camera. After that, the camera makes the picture. There are three variables. Your photo can be underexposed, the photo could be overexposed, or the photo is perfectly exposed. Now there are three ways in how the light can get to your sensor. The aperture, the shutter speed, and the ISO. And this is what we call the Light Triangle. Each of them has a function. And if you manage to understand the three of them perfectly, you will be able to control your camera manually hundred percent, and you will be able to understand Photography is actually very simple. Each of them allows a certain amount of light to enter the sensor. And the trick is as simple as this. For example, if the aperture is letting in more light than required for a perfect exposure, then you will have to lower the ISO and shutter speed to get the proper exposure to compensate if you need to manipulate the Shutter Speed and that is affecting the Exposure. Well, the same thing. You have to adjust the other two so that you can get the Light that you need to get a good exposure. It is all about compensation. As you can see, the aperture, the shutter speed, and the ISO work together as a team and they help each other. Now that we understand how they work together, let's understand what exactly each of them are 4. Aperture Shutter Speed and ISO: Light is measured by stops in the camera when you have a perfect exposure and you take one-stop down, then the image gets a little darker. If you add more stops, then it gets overexposed. We have three ways to let the light into your sensor. They all work together and they are called the Light Triangle. Imagine the Light Triangle as a secret recipe for perfect exposure. It consists of three key ingredients, aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, as I mentioned before, Let's see how they come together to create the magic in your photographs. The aperture represented by an f-number controls the size of the opening in your lens. Imagine the aperture is the eye of your camera. The wider the aperture, the more light enters the camera, but that's not all. The aperture also affects depth of field or how much your image is in focus. Now pay attention. I mentioned that aperture is represented by an f-number. The bigger number, like F 16, for example, means that the aperture is small and the lower the number, like F18, for example, means the B aperture is wide. Okay, These put sound a little confusing, but with practice, you'll get used to it. Don't worry, we don't white aperture like a 1.8, for example. Let more light in and you create a much higher depth of field, so less is in-focus. This is very good for portraits within 16, for example, is completely the opposite. The overture will be smaller, more things will be in-focus, very good for landscape photography. Now let's talk about Shutter Speed. It determines the length of time your camera's sensor is exposed to light. So if we think again about the I that I mentioned before in aperture, it will be how long they I will be open. You can be very creative with the Shutter Speed, a fast shutter speed freezes motion, which is very good for sports, while as low one at a sense of motion blur is very good for long exposure pictures that are so nice, but be careful because to slower speed without sterilization can result in blurry images. So I will suggest you to use a tripod if you want to do along exposure. Let's stop. We have the ISO sensitivity setting that affects how your camera responds to light. A low ISO like 100 is perfect for bright situations because you really don't need to add ISO in these situations, like in a bright daylight, for example. While a higher ISO like 1,600 comes to the rescue in low-light conditions. If you put 1,600 ISO in your camera, it is going to add light. But always remember that it is not real light, but one kind of artificial meet with your camera. Also, be aware of noise. You can sneak into your photos at higher ISOs, even though nowadays the cameras have a noise reduction system inside and even with solvers like Photoshop or Lightroom with the new AI can take out the noise. It is always better to take a good picture from camera instead of fixing it impulse, you have to practice to understand more how the Light Triangle works and why they call it like this. I will give you an example. Imagine that you want a very nice they fulfilling your photo and then your aperture is wide open. And that is actually adding three stops of light in your photo, which makes it overexposed. Then you can try to keep your ISO as low as possible. And maybe that takes one stop of light, which makes your picture still two stops overexposed. Well, then you have to play with the Shutter Speed, tried to make it fast in a way that it compensates those two stops. And voila, perfect exposure, as you see, is like a game and breakfast will make you an expert. Okay, now we understand what aperture, Shutter Speed, and iso are. The real magic happens when we balance all three sides of the Light Triangle. We need to find the perfect harmony to achieve the desired 5. Camera Essencials, Exposure Modes: Cameras come with different exposure modes to make our lives easier. We have the program mode, aperture priority, and Shutter Priority, which are like half out of Modes. And then we have the manual mode would give you full creative control. You don't be shy and experiment with this modes to find your comfort zone. Aperture priority. When you use these mode in your camera, you have all the flexibility and manual control of the aperture. And when you choose the aperture that you want, the camera will automatically fix the Shutter Speed and the ISO for you. That's all I said, that he's kinda like a half out of Modes. This is good for portraits on the go. Or if you have a fast lens and you want to take advantage of it. By the way, fast lenses are the lenses that allows you to have a very wide aperture, like a one point a to point to, because not all the lenses can do that. The same happens with Shutter Priority. When you choose this mode in your camera, it means that you will be able to change manually your shutter speed. The camera will adjust the aperture and ISO for you. And this is good for sports photography, where you need these fast shutter speed to capture these moments. Now the program mode is a little bit more complicated to use because if you have to have experience in this mode, you will select the ISO that you want and the camera will look for the best balance between Shutter Speed and aperture to give a well exposed image with sufficient depth fulfilled and sharpness. But you have to be very careful, for example, in a low light environment, because if you have a low ISO programmed, the camera can arrange the Shutter Speed very slow to allow more light to hit the sensor. And that could bring a lot of blur with a very simple small movement. Be careful with that. Of course, with Practice and mistakes, you will get the point and decide which is the best mode for you and when to use them. Now, manual mode is basically when you have full control with the camera. If you change the aperture, the camera will not do anything with a Shutter Speed or the ISO. So you will have to play with all of them to compensate for the stops needed. The perfect exposure, I would suggest you to turn on the Exposure guide of your camera. It helps a lot. I always have it on. Also practice a lot with manual mode because like this, you will be able to better understand your camera and its capabilities. 6. Let's Practice: Okay, So here we have a can and I want to make a portrayed out of it. I put in purpose a bottle of champagne or their, Of course, I'm going to open it later on. So here, like a little plant over there. And there is a reason why I did this and you will understand in a bit. So I'm gonna use a lens that is a 50 millimeter lens and he's with the aperture of 1.8 F18, which is amazing for portraits because it makes the image possible to be very unfocused while the background is completely blurry. So let's take a picture at 1.8. Let's turn on these lights so the can is going to be visible. And let's take a picture. As you can see, the picture is really good. It's a portrait because basically all the background is completely blurry and it makes the image look very nice. Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to go a little higher instead of 1.9, I'm gonna go to 2.8 just for you to have an idea of what is going to happen if I go a little bit higher. Okay, let's take a picture also here. As you can see in this picture is not much of a difference between 1.8 and 2.8, but still the background is a little bit less blurry or just little tiny bit. But what happened if I exaggerate and go to F 16 or even more? Let's try it. Now. You can actually see the blood in the back and a little bit of the champagne bottle over there. And that's why I told you, with higher numbers is much better for landscape photography. I'm gonna go to F22. That is the maximum that this is allowing me. Now you can actually see more of the image and the background. Of course I have a light here point in just that they can. So the can is going to be more visible. But if I will be taking pictures outside, what I was telling you, landscape photography, this is gonna be really clear and you will see the big difference between 1.8 all the way to F22. Really a huge difference. You've seen aperture priority, which means that every time I changed the aperture, the camera by itself is going to adjust the ISO and shutter speeds for me. And normally I have my common in aperture priority, but this is because the kind of photography that I do now of course, if I will be in a studio or in a place where my subject is with me and he's not going anywhere, he's not moving. It could be the scan because I can take the can put it there and it's not going to move anywhere. Of course I will go to manual mode because I have time to change everything to set up wherever I want. This is not moving and he's not going anywhere. Now if I would be, for example, in a stadium and I'm taking pictures of a soccer game. I wanted to take pictures of the ball moving all the way to the keeper. Players running around. They are constant moving. But it's not just the movement there, is that if I take a picture, I want to capture the moment, I want to freeze the moment. For that. I will. You need to go to Shutter Speed priority. So like I mentioned before, it's up to you is what your photography is. So now the first thing to do for us to go outside and start taking pictures and practice as much as you can read all the modes. So like this, you will be able to choose the mode, the goals with your photography for you guys who are using the smartphone. Don't worry. What I did with the 1.8 and the 2.8 pictures. That is the, you know, the blurry background than the portrait photography. You can do it with your phone. Now, most of the fonts printed, say all the phones nowadays are coming with the portrait mode. It's gonna make this blurry background. But having mind that, that blurry background is not made by the lens, is actually artificially made by a software in your phone. It's not gonna be the same, but at least you have that option. I think now it's time for you to get out there and start experimenting and taking pictures. Practice. Remember that Practice is what is going to help you to become a pro 7. White balance: White balance refers to the color temperature of light sources and how it affects the colors in your photographs. The different light sources have different color temperatures. We can give your images a warm or cool tone. The temperature of light is measured in Kelvin, where lower numbers indicate a warmer temperature, yellowish colors, and higher numbers indicate colder temperatures, bluish colors. By default, your camera will be an auto white balance, which in most cases will be okay. This mode allows your camera to automatically analyze the color temperature of the scene and adjust accordingly. It's convenient for quick shooting situations, but it may not always produce accurate colors, especially under challenging lighting conditions. When you go to the settings of the white balance, you have symbols that help you to understand it. For example, if you are in a sunny day, you could use the sun icon option. And you have options for a cloudy day when you are at home, when you are using tungsten lights, et cetera. It is actually very simple. If you want to be more accurate, you can actually go to your camera and in the white balance options, you will have the option to capture the white in your studio or whatever you are by taking a picture of a white paper or a white surface, the camera will understand what is pure white, where you are and adjust itself. Now if you're in a studio and you want to replicate a certain temperature, you can use proper studio lights that allows you to change the temperature. For example, the famous Utuberpeter Kino nowadays is using a warm temperature, like 3000-4 thousand Kelviing for his studio videos, of course, you will have to adjust your camera manually to match the lights that you are using. Personally, in videos like this one, I normally have my camera in auto white balance. But it is because I'm in a controlled environment. But if I would be outside and the sun keeps moving, plus the clouds are covering the sun from time to time, the camera will be changing and adjusting constantly, which could be a problem. But you know what? As I keep repeating, it is not about understanding. By learning the theory, take your camera and practice. Practice makes perfect. 8. What Is Dynamic Range: What is dynamic range? Dynamic range is like a superhero power for photographers. It's all about capturing the widest range of light and dark tones in a single shot. So basically, we want to see the details in the shadows and also in the highlights. A limited dynamic range can result in loss of information in the shadows or highlights. While a wide dynamic range allows you to capture all the details. Imagine you are out in nature surrounded by breathtaking landscapes. You want to capture everything. A good dynamic range, you can capture those vibrant colors in both bright sunlight and also in the shadowy areas. When you take a photo, your camera sensor tries to balance the light and the dark areas, but sometimes it struggles to capture all the details. In high contrast scenes, just imagine that your eyes can see at least twice the dynamic range that the top camera in the market can do right now. What can you do to maximize your dynamic range? First, you have to take photos in raw because it allows you to have more control in the editing. Raw photos have more information because they're using all the data captured by the sensor. Then find the right exposure, settings your cameras histogram to ensure that your image covers the entire range from shadows to highlights. If you're shooting in a high contra scene, try dialing down the exposure to retain more detail in the highlights. And if it's the opposite in a darker scene, bump up the exposure to capture the shadows. You may need to bracket your shots by taking multiple exposures. You just adjust your exposure to the highlights and take a picture. Then you expose the shadows and take a picture. You can even try with more exposures and take pictures, of course, use a tripod so that the pictures have all the same framing. Then when you have all the pictures, go to the editing software and you can use the bracketing option to put all the pictures together. That is a good technique. I use it a lot for landscape photography. Now the magic doesn't end in the field. Post processing is equally important. In post processing, you can fine tune the dynamic range of your photos, bring out the details in shadows, and recover highlights. That is why I recommend you to take pictures. In raw. Post processing or editing is where your creativity can truly shine. It is incredible how dynamic range can take your photography to the next level. 9. Composition: Composition is basically how we arrange the elements in our scene is the most important part of The Art of photography. It's even more important than the camera and the lenses that you have. You can actually get amazing shots with the cheapest cameras in the world. Just think about the amazing pictures taken by the National Geographic Magazine back in the day. And just for you to know, National Geographic was first launched in 18 88. Nowadays, any phone takes much better pictures than the most professional cameras in that time. Still, we're talking about incredible photos they were taking a long time ago and everything was in the composition. So let's talk about some guidelines that we could use to make our photos better. Sometimes I use negative space to attract the viewer's attention to the main subject. So basically, negative space is the use of a lot of empty spaces to help define your subject or like I said before, to attract your viewers attention to your subject. Normally in this kind of pictures, your subject is going to be in a small part of the photo. For example, look at this boat in the middle of the ocean. Here we use the ocean as a negative space. The ocean is not distracting at all. So you make your viewer focus in the boat. Try to keep your horizon level. Some cameras are going to even have a guide to level the horizon. If your camera doesn't have it, you can always use the greets that your camera has. Their very useful not just to level the horizon, but also to follow certain rules that are very popular in photography. You can always fix the horizon imposed, but it will crop some parts of the picture. And that's why I always try to do everything on camera. One more thing about the horizon in pictures is that it doesn't have to be on the top. You can try different pictures, positioning your horizon in different parts of the photo. But please always try your best to have it leveled. When you are in the place to take the picture, you have to move. And I don't mean one or two steps move, you have to move around, look for different perspectives. You can have a lot of different photos from the same place, just by moving. Photos can use leading lines and they make the picture very pleasant to the eyes. Leading lines are lines that you can see in the photograph. And you have to put them in a way that are going to draw attention to any specific place in the picture. It is fascinating how the brain tends to go to specific places in the photo by unconsciously follow the lines. Let's start by saying that the rule of thirds is actually not a rule in Art. There are no rules. This is more a guideline and it is variable. We have to break the image into thirds and then you're going to create nine frames. And the idea is to place the subject in any of the intersecting lines. This is the most popular guideline. And normally this is the first one that you learn in photography, maybe because it's very easy to understand and believe me, it helps a lot major feature in most cases, very pleasing to the eyes. I believe that with the guidelines I just gave you, your Photography is going to improve very fast. There are more guidelines that I could give you, but I think with these ones, you can already start. The idea is for you to get out there and start taking pictures. Remember, I keep saying it. I keep saying it. I want you to practice 10. All About Cameras: Selecting the right camera is essential because it affects the quality of your images, easy of use, and your overall photography experience. With numerous options available, it can be overwhelming, but don't worry. We'll break down the main types of cameras and their key features to help you make an informed choice. Compact cameras, also known as point and shoot cameras, are small, lightweight, and highly portable. They are an excellent option for beginners who want convenience and easy of use. They have built in lenses and automatic settings, making them suitable for everyday photography. However, they may have limited manual controls and a smaller image sensor, which can affect image quality, especially in low light conditions. Dslr cameras are popular among enthusiast and professionals. They offer advanced manual controls, interchangeable lenses, and excellent image quality. The problem is that DSLRs can be bulky, and there are no companies making them anymore. You can still find them in the shops, but they will not be future proof because companies are not even making lenses for DSLR anymore. Mirror less cameras. They are the present and the future in the camera world. They are compact sized, lightweight design, and have advanced features. They operate without a mirror, and that's why they are smaller. They offer excellent image quality and are known for their fast out of focus performance. They also offer excellent video capabilities. Mirror less cameras have electronic view finders which provide real time previews of your images. All companies are now putting all their power into making these cameras. So if you're serious about photography, this is the way to go. By the way, all my cameras are mirrorless. Smartphone cameras have become increasingly capable of making them a popular choice for casual photographers. Convenient, always renew, and offer a variety of building editing options. Nowadays, many smartphones have multiple lenses. They are compact, always accessible, and offer instant sharing options. However, they may lack manual controls and have limitations in low light conditions. They are best suited for casual photographers who want convenience and simplicity. My suggestion is not to stress about which camera to buy. Just get out there and start taking pictures. Use your phone to start. Then little by little, you will understand what you really need. But now, if you already decided to buy a camera, go for a mirror list. 11. Raw Vs Jpg: Raw versus JPG. It's a debate that has raged on in photography circles for years. But what's the real difference between these two formats? When you take a photo, your camera saves the image as a digital file on a memory card. The file can be safdy. Different formats, with raw and JPG being the most common. Raw files contain all of the data captured by the camera sensor, while JPG files are compressed and lose some of the data when you shoot in raw, you have more flexibility in post processing. You can adjust things like exposure, white balance, and color temperature without sacrificing image quality with the JPG file. Those adjustments are more limited. You can make basic tweaks, but if you push the image too far, you'll start to see pixelation and other artifacts. So which one should you use? Well, it depends on what you're shooting and what your final output will be. If you're shooting something that requires a lot of editing, like a landscape or portrait role is the way to go. But if you're shooting something that you just want to share in social media, JPG is perfectly fine. Ultimately, the decision between Raw and JPG comes down to your personal preference and your specific needs as a photographer. The next time you're shooting, think about which file format is right for you. A tip. Most of the cameras nowadays can take both at the same time. 12. More Or Less Megapixels: Let's talk about mega pixels in cameras and how they affect our pictures. If having more megapixels in a camera is better than fewer megapixels. And this is not only related to professional cameras, but also for smart ones. We see last year the last iphone had 12 megapixels, and other smart phones reach up to 108 megapixels, which is crazy. Nowadays, iphones have 48 megapixels and the latest Samsung S 23 Ultra has 200 megapixels. That is crazy. But is it true that more megapixels are better than fewer megapixels? It is normally thought that the higher the number of megapixels, the better the camera, which is completely wrong. Let me explain if we have two full frame cameras, and let's be clear. We're talking about the size of the sensor being the same. One has 20 megapixels and the other has more than double 45 megapixels. Now let's look at this image. And as you can see on the right side, the pixels of the 20 megapixel camera are much larger. They are more than double the difference in size. Which means that because they are larger, the camera with fewer megapixels captures more light. And therefore the image resolution will be better and sharper. Not only that, cameras with fewer mega pixels are much better for photos and videos in low light because they have larger pixels and therefore capture more light. So it photos will be much better. Also due to the size of the megapixels. These cameras produce much less noise. But now, why didn't buy a camera with Mormegapixels? One thing I've heard is that the cameras with Mormegapixels are a little bit better with Auto Focus, which personally I haven't seen because I tried many cameras with different amounts of megapixels and I haven't seen really a big difference. So what is good about the camera with mormegapixels is that they allow you to print giant photos and the resolution is not going to be lost. One benefit of this is that if you take a big photo, you can choose parts of the photo and crop it without being afraid of becoming pixeled or losing resolution. But is that really what you need? Personally, I use two cameras. My second camera is a Lumix G 85, which is an amazing camera to start in the world of photography and videography. It has only 16 megapixels and the sensor is micro four thirds. So it's a smaller sensor, but it is really amazing, especially for video. And the quality is very good. And the best of all is that it's not expensive at all. My main camera is a 24.2 megapixel LumixS 52. This is a full frame camera and obviously the quality of the photos is very good. I sell many of these photos on stock platforms, which proves the quality of this camera in the end, the camera to buy depends on the use that you're going to give it. And remember that the numbers and specifications are not everything. The magic is in your creativity. 13. The Editing Process: Why do photographers edit their photos? You know that it's not just about clicking the shutter button. Photographers put a lot of effort into editing their photos to bring out their true potential. But let's understand why anything allows photographers to take their images to another level. Imagine a world where every photo looks exactly like you see with your eyes. Boring editing helps photographers enhance colors, adjust brightness, and even bring out hidden details that make the image editing also let photographers express their unique style, whether it's creating a vintage look or playing with some filters. Editing allows photographers to unleash their creativity. I will show you how to edit one photo. We will be using Adobe Lightroom Classic CC. The idea is going to be the same in most software, so if you're using another one, you will be able to follow along. So now let's go to light room. So basically what you see when you open light room is exactly this, like I just installed, as you can see here on the top wearing library. So what we want is to pull a picture here in the middle so that we can start editing. We have here a picture of Lake Blet in Slovenia. So what we're going to do, like I said, we're just going to pull it, release it here in the middle, and this is what is going to appear. What I will suggest you to do is to add it to a collection. This is something I always suggest to all editors. You have to be organized. So let's add a collection, and let's put in the name Lake Blet. Let's put Create. And then we click here in Import. So we're going to import the picture into light room. Now what we're going to do is instead of library, we're going to go to develop. And now we have our picture here. This is what we're going to edit. Amazing, Beautiful Lake Bled here on the left side. If you click this little arrow, you can see you have few options where you have the Navigator, where you can actually click here to Sum and to Sum out also. And here where it says History, you can see everything that you're doing to the picture. So if you're editing for 10 minutes already, you can come here and see exactly what you did if you want to erase something or if you want to come back to that editing again. If we click this arrow, we're going to close this, so we have the picture bigger. This is what actually we want. Now in this side, you have all the editing tools. Let me tell you, sometimes when you see it, it seems overwhelming, but it's very easy to use. Let's minimize this also. So these are all the tools that you can use to edit. We're going to start with the basic correction and maybe some cropping. Maybe we're going to pick some little things. We're not going to go so deep. I have a course where I explain everything about light room in this platform. So if you are interested, also check it out because it's very dynamic. In such a short time, you're going to learn and become a pro. Okay, let's go, we're going to start cropping. This is the first thing that I always do, even though I see the pictures. Okay. There's little things, little things that I don't like. So let's crop the picture here. We can see that the picture is already kind of cropped. So what we're going to do is we're going to come here and we're going to look for something like four by five. I think this is going to be okay. We can make it a little bigger. I think this is going to be okay. So before we press Enter, you see here the angle. I think I'm going to move a little bit the angle because I think I feel like it's a little bit towards the left side. So I'm going to change it. I'm gonna fix it a little bit. Let's see, I think 0.5 is going to make it. I feel better like this. So now we press Enter and it's done. Now let's go to the basic corrections. When you start to edit, you're going to find your workflow for me. I just follow what light room is giving me. So I'm going to start with the white balance. I'm not going to do any changes because I think the white balance is perfect. It's correct. So let's go to tone exposure. Here is correct. I'm not going to change anything. The contrast though, Yes, I like to add a little bit of contrast. I'm not going to exaggerate because later I'm going to add more contrast with the tone curves, highlight highlights. I'm going to take a little bit of highlights, If I exaggerate, you're going to see the sky, how it changes. It gives more detail to the sky. So I think I'm going to take highlights maybe to the middle and I'm going to recover what I lost just adding a little bit of shadows. The good thing about this technique is that highlights are most in the sky and all the areas are illuminated not in the shadows. So when you take them out, it gives details. And then when you add shadows, the sky doesn't have any shadows, so there's not going to be any change now whites. My suggestion also when you are editing, is move everything. Move to one side, move to the other side so you can see what is happening when you are in the middle and you move to the left side, it's darkening the picture. I don't want that. Maybe just a little bit. I'm going to take out the whites because it gives details. Now, in blacks, this is going to give a lot of contrast. If I add or if I take, and I'm going to show you, if I go here, it's like super black. If I go to the other side, it looks like you took all the blacks out. So I think I'm just going to take a few blacks out a little bit. And I think that's it now in presence where it says texture clarity and dehaze in texture. Normally, when you're doing portraits or skin, you don't add texture because it's not good for the skin and for faces, but because we have a lot of trees here and all of these details, texture is going to give something nice. If I take out the texture look, it looks like a paint. So I'm going to add a little bit more of texture. And then in clarity you also I'm going to add a little bit more and then Hays. Look what happened with the sky. When I add dehaze, the sky becomes super blue and everything goes into so much detail, we don't want that and we're losing a lot of detail. If we go to the opposite side, is like a mist came. I'm not going to use the dehaze for today. Now, in vibrance and saturation, this is about the color. Saturation is going to add color to all the picture, and then vibrance is going to add color. But in a very clever way, it knows where it needs. I normally use vibrance. I'm going to add a little bit of vibrance and I think that's okay. And then saturation, actually I'm going to take out a little bit of saturation and I think that's okay. Just finishing with the basic corrections, you can see the difference. You can press the backslash and you will see how the picture started. And then when you release the backslash, look how it is now amazing. There is a change. It's much better. You can see more details in the tower. Okay, let's click here in the arrow, so we are not a mess, we're more organized. Let's go to the tongue curves. And here on the tone curves is where you're going to create this contrast. I'm going to pull a little bit, I don't know if you heard about the S curve is what I normally use. And the S curve is going to give so much contrast in the picture that it's amazing. Now here in this corner, if you pull it up, you're going to mute some of the blocks. I'm going to exaggerate, so you see what happened. The blocks started to mute. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to just, that's a little bit here and I think that's enough. As you can see now I got more shadows, more dark areas. So don't be afraid to minimize this. Come back to the basics and maybe use more shadows here. So it opens the picture more. Okay, now what we're going to do is we're going to come back to the tone curves. Because I want to show you something here in this corner. You see the eye. If you touch the eye, you can see how it was, the picture before the curves. And when you release the eye, you can see how is it with the curves, it is a difference. Sometimes the differences are so tiny, so not much of a difference. But all together, all these little tiny differences make a huge impact in the picture. Now, as you can see here on the bottom, I don't like this, I don't like these leaves here. I think they are a little bit distractive. So what we can do is we can here where you see it says healing. You can press also and you will go to the healing. When you get close to the image, you're going to see there is this circle. And then here you can see where it's a size and opacity in size, you can make the circle smaller or bigger. As you can see, I'm exaggerating here. You have the option here, for example, it says Content Aware, remove. This is something amazing. It's AI actually. It's going to analyze what you are marking and he's going to erase it. So let's use it. Okay, there you go. And then you pull it here and that's it. Light room is analyzing and he's going to erase it. And boom, erased. This is really, really, this is making your life so much easier. Come on. When I started editing pictures, this didn't exist and now we are our picture. I like it. I think it's enough. There's a lot of things we can do. Like we can use masks, for example, here. And we can mask just the sky. We can start to mask little parts of the picture, making everything amazing. So I hope you like light room. I hope you like this editing. It was fast like this. You saw my workflow. Actually, there are so many things I normally will do to this picture, but I think like this is enough. Let's click again in the box lash so you can see how we started, look how we started and look now. It is amazing the difference with little tweaks like you see. There is a lot we can do with editing. If you want to learn more about editing with Lightroom classic CC, I have a beginner course in this platform. I made it very dynamic, so go ahead and check it out. I know you will like it. 14. Conclusion: Now it's time to get out there and start taking pictures. I'm so happy that you chose this course. I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoyed making it. If you have any questions or suggestions, please let me know and don't forget also the give me a review because like this, you're not just helping me. You're helping also other students to find what they need. Don't forget to check out my other courses in this platform you'll never know. Maybe you'll find something you like until next time.