Mastering Miniatures: Sculpting Traditional Indian Cookware in Clay

1. Welcome : Hello, everyone, and a very warm welcome to this force. I am Mona ugly artist from Indian. Working with clay has been my passion since childhood. And for the last ten years, I have been teaching clay art online. Over this decade, it has been an absolute privilege to welcome students from all over the world into my classes. While my core artistic speciality lies in creating detail, three D clay mural art and sculptures, miniature crafting hold a very special place in my heart. In this course, we are going to create a beautiful miniature, traditional Indian Cokfare set using air dry clay. Think of this as a miniature pottery glass, but with a wonderful twist, you won't need a clean or even a pottery veil. Everything we create here is entirely handcrafted using just our hands and a few basic tools. Throughout this journey, you will learn exactly how to work with air dry clay from scratch. We will cover how to shape the entire copareset beautifully using just your hands and basic tools, how to properly dry your pieces to prevent any cracks and the right techniques for finishing. Moving forward, I will also guide you step by step through mixing colors, painting, and adding those beautiful traditional decorative details to your miniatures. So even if you are an absolute beginner and have never touched clip before, you can easily follow along and create these pieces with confidence. I have designed every step to be simple, clear, and easy to understand, as you will see throughout the lesson. While you are here on Skillshare, please make sure to check out my other courses as well. To see more of my daily artwork, updates and tutorials. You can also follow me on YouTube, Instagram and Facebook at Mona Arty Academy. So get ready to experience the joy of making something beautiful with your own hands. Let's head over to the next lesson and look at the Mdrials. We need to get started. 2. Materials : Hi, everyone. Let's take a look at the materials we will need for this course. Don't worry. Every single materials we are using here is very basic and easy to find. You won't need anything fancy or complicated to get started. Our main material is white air dry clay. This clay is easily available all over the world under different popular brand names like Joe, Das, Nara, Dasan and many others. So you can easily find it online or at a local craft store. I will tell you all the details about how to correctly handle and work with this specific clay in our next video. But for now, let's look at the other basic tools you will need alongside it. First is a weighing scale. But please note this is completely option. If you don't have one, you can easily estimate the clay proportions. We will use some circular cutters in different sizes, but don't worry if you don't have craft cutters, you can simply use bottle caps or some small containers as your cutters. We will also be using ball tools for shaping. But if you don't have one, no problem at all, you can easily use the backside of our regular paintbrush instead. It works exactly the same way. We will need rulers, which we can also use as basic cutting tools. To finish and decorate our pieces, we will need a few paintbrushes for coloring. We will need some toothpakes. Also a flat surface like an MDA for acrylic dis will be great to work on, but this is completely optional to now for painting and coloring, we will be using acrylic colors. You can either bottle acrylic colors or tube acrylic colors, whichever you prefer. To get that perfect authentic clay look, we will make our own basic terracotta shade using brown red and yellow color. And finally, to paint those beautiful traditional designs on top of our pieces, we will need some white color. Lastly, you will need some glue. In traditional pottery, we make clay with water to create a paste called slip, which acts as a natural glue to join pieces together. And I will teach you exactly how to make that. However, it's still good to keep a bottle of glue handy. You can use any all purpose craft glue for this. As you can see, almost all of these tools and materials are very basic and you can easily find quick household substitute for them. So grab all your materials and get ready. See you in the next lesson. 3. How to Work with Air Dry Clay : Hello, everyone. Now that we have our materials ready, let's talk about how to work with our main medium air tri clay. This clay is easily available all over the world online under different brand names like Zovi Das Dawson, you can easily get your hands on it. To get the best results, there are a few important things you need to keep in mind. The very first and most important step is conditioning the clay. Conditioning simply means stretching and knitting the clay thoroughly with your hands before you start shaping it. This process warms up the clay and removes any trapped air bubbles, which is very important because it prevents your miniature pods from cracking while they dry. While conditioning your clay, if you feel that your clay is a bit dry, tight or hard to mold, you can fix its consistency right then and there. Just add a few drop of water and knead it again. You need to knead it until its consistency becomes uniform throughout and the clay becomes completely soft and smooth. This will hardly take you about two to 3 minutes. But be very careful. Do not add too much water, or the clay will become too loose and sticky to work with. In the same way, you don't want it to be too tight, either. You need to find that perfect balance where it feels smooth, soft and easy to shape. Mm. And as you can see right now, it has become incredible soft and smooth. Just see. After you finish shaping your beautiful artwork, the next important step is drying. It usually takes about five to six days for your pieces to dry completely depending on your local weather and the thickness of your work. I always highly advise that you let your clay dry slowly. Patience is the key here. Once you have made your piece, place it in a safe spot away from direct sunlight or heavy fast air like a direct fan to ensure it dries slowly and evenly without cracking. Loosely cover your piece with a piece of tissue paper, a poly bag, or a soft cloth. Just give it time to dry naturally and completely, and your patients will reward you with perfect crack free results. Now, how to store this clay. Since this is a air dry clay, it begins to dry as soon as it comes into contact with the air. So always remember to take out only the amount of clay you need for your project, to store the remaining clay safely, wrap it tightly in a poly bag or plastic wrap, and then place it inside an airtight container. This keeps the moisture locked in and prevents your clay from drying out, so it stays fresh and ready for your next project. By following these simple steps and tips, you are completely ready to handle air dry clay like a pro. So keep these rules in mind, bring out your creativity, and let's head over to our very first project. See you in the next video. 4. Clay Water Pot: Hello, everyone. Welcome to the very first project of our miniature traditional cookware course. Today we are starting our journey by crafting one of India's most ancient and iconic vessel, the traditional Maka or clay water pot. For centuries, this humble pot has been handcrafted on a pottery wheel and baked in a glen. But what makes Samatka truly magical is how it keeps water incredibly cool during scorching summer without any electricity. Because the clay is porous, water slowly evaporates through its surface luring the temperature naturally. It's nature's very unnatural cool, adding a unique earthy flavor that is simply unmassed. In this course, we are going to create a complete miniature Cokier set, and we are starting with this beautiful piece and the best part, we will craft this entirely by hand without any potrveal. We are using air dry clay, so you don't even need a clean to bake it. So grab your clay, follow along step by step, and let's create our very first miniature piece together. To begin, we have taken a small piece of clay and we are conditioning it well, conditioning an absolutely must for any clay project because it makes the clay soft, plable and smooth. This piece is around 50 gram. But if you don't have a weighing scale, don't worry at all. There is no need for an exact measurement. Just take an amount that feels right for your project. I will knead the clay for a little while as kneading removes any air bubbles from it. It makes the clay soft and smooth, balance the moisture level throughout and makes it much easier to work with. If you feel your clay too hard or drying out, you can add a little bit of water and need it to make it soft again. As I can feel right now. My clay is a bit on the harder side, so I am adding just a little touch of water to it. After adding water, we need to knead it through the once again. Make sure not to add too much water. Otherwise, the clay will become too loose and won't be able to hold its shape properly. Knead it well for a while. Once it's throughly conditioned, we will roll it to make a crack free, soft and smooth ball. This ball is roughly the size of a lemon. After making the ball, we will gently pinch one side of it and pull the clay outwards. By pressing it continuously with our hands, we will shape it to form the neck of the pot. Keep rotating it slowly and pinching it in this manner, and the neck will gradually become longer. After this, we will take a ball tool. We are going to press the ball tool right into the center of the neck. We just made to hollow it out, so make sure to press down gently. We don't need to hollow out the entire pot just yet. For now, we are only hollowing out the neck portion of it. After this, we will gently turn the *** of the neck outwards to form the rim. Once the rim is formed, we will hollow out the inner part of the neck even further by pressing into it with a ball tool. When you pull the ball tool back out, make sure not to just yank it out suddenly. Instead, rotate it slowly as you bring it out. In this way, you can hollow it out even further if you wish. Take the ball tool deeper inside and gently press against the ball of the pot. Move the ball tool inside while continuously rotating it, and then slowly pull it back out. Now we will flatten it base slightly so that it doesn't wobble or fall over. Just place it on the surface and gently press the pot down, and it will become flat from the bottom. The height of our dka is around 3.5 to four centimeter. Now we are doing the final finishing. As you can see, there are a few uneven spots on the surface. To do the finishing, just dampen your finger with a little water and gently rub it over those areas. Now, you can see that as soon as you do this, the surface becomes completely smooth and even gets a beautiful shiny finish. Make sure to dempen your finger just a little bit and gently rub the pot while rotating it from all sides. Do the same for the rim as well, but be very gentle as the rim is the most delicate part here. If you like, you can place it on acrylic or MDF disc to work on it. This way, you won't have to repeatedly move or touch the pot to rotate it. You can just rotate the disc itself while working on the pot. This will prevent the top from losing its shape. We have also applied just a tiny bit of water to the ball tool, and now we are doing some final finishing on the inside as well. Now, turn it upside down and press it down just a little bit so that the rim also level out perfectly. And there you have it. Without a pottery wheel, you have successfully made a beautiful little miniature clay pot or madca. Now, we need to leave it to dry. You will need to have a little patience here because the slower it dries, the better the final result will be to dry it properly, cover it with a polybeg loosely or a soft cloth, and place it in a spot away from direct sunlight or heavy air flow. Just let it dry slowly and naturally. Once it's dry, we will do a little sending if needed, and after that, we will do the coloring and painting. All right, let's meet in the next lesson and create some more interesting pottery pieces for our miniature kitchen. 5. Clay Stove: Hello, everyone, and welcome back. In this lesson, we are going to dive into one of the most beautiful and traditional pieces of our miniature clay set the chula or the traditional clay stop. Before we start crafting it with our clay, just take a look at how charming this little piece looks. For centuries, the chula was the heart of the kitchen. It is entirely handmade using mud or clay. Now you might wonder, how was this actually used? In a traditional setup, firewood or cow dung cakes or dry rings are placed inside the lower opening, which act as the fuel jumber. Once the fire is lit, the cooking pot are placed right on the top. The slow cooking over a real wood fire gives the food a distinct smoky flavor that you simply can't replicate in a modern kitchen. In this video, we are going to learn how to sculpt and create this beautiful heritage piece from scratch using our clay. Get your clay ready and let's bring this piece to life. Let's get started. But to start making a chula, I am taking around 90 grams of air dry clay. From this, we are taking a small piece, weighing around 35 gram, which we will use to make the base of a chula. In the meantime, let's play the remaining clay inside a polybg to keep it from drying out. Now take this 35 gram piece of clay and flatten it with your hands into a rough rectangular shape. After that, use an acrylic ruler to roll it out completely flat and even. From this rolled clay, we need to cut out a precise rectangle that is four centimeter wide and six centimeter long. Take a ruler and misre it out and cut it neatly. After cutting, put the excess clay that is leftover back into the polybeg as well. Now slightly dampen your finger with water and gently rub all the ses to make them perfectly smooth. Do the same for the top surface, so it looks completely neat and even. Strap the sides using rulers. Now let's take out the rest of the clay that we kept in the polybg and we will use it to create the main top body of our chula. With this clay, we are going to shape it into a block or you could call it a four by four centimeter cube. Use your hands to press and mold the clay until it takes the shape of a four by four cube. To make sure the sides are perfectly straight and flat, press them using a ruler. In fact, I am using two rulers at the same time pressing from both sides to get sharp clean ages. Once the cube is formed, place it right on top of the base we made earlier to check the alignment from the sides. Our cube should not extend or stick out from the ages of the base as our base is also exactly 4 centimeters wide. This size looks absolutely perfect. Now that our four by four centimeter block is ready. Let's slightly smooth out the surface first, although we will be smoothing it out again later. Doing it now helps keep the shape neat. Next, take a bottle cap or a round cookie cutter and press it firmly into the center of the block. Pressing it down will leave a clear circular impression. We then need to scoop out all the clay from inside this circle. By removing this clay, it will create a neat hollow hole right through our cube. Using a knife, I am carefully and slowly scooping out the clay from the center. During this process, the shape of your cube might get slightly distorted or disturbed. But don't worry about that right now. We will fix and reshape it later on. Once the clay is out, take a ball tool to refine and smooth the inside of this circular hole to make it shape perfect. Or you can also temper your finger and gently up the inside surface. Once again, I am using two rulers to straighten up the sides. And we'll place it on top of the base to double check the fit. It looks like it's sticking out just a tiny bit, I am going to press it gently between the two rulers once more to squeeze it back into shape. Let's do a final check on the base, now it fits absolutely perfect. Next, we need to make an opening on the front side. First, let's make a straight cut right down the center. From this center point, we will then make slanting cuts from the top stretching down towards the bottom. This will create our main opening. You can easily use a ruler or a blade to make these clean slanting cuts. Scoop out the clay. Now it's time for the final finishing. Slightly dampen your finger with water and gently rub the clay all over. As you can see, the top surface is becoming incredibly smooth and neat. For the corners, we want to keep them slightly rounded, then sharp. Gently smooth them out. Don't forget to refine the front opening as well. Make sure it's are nice and clean. You can also use a ball tool inside the center hole to smooth it out perfectly. Once the top piece is smooth, let's place it on the base just to get an accurate idea of exactly where and how much space it will occupy when a test. After checking the placement, lift the top piece now on that marked area of the base where the top will say, use a knife to scratch a crisscross pattern onto the clay. Making these criss cross cores creates a rough texture. So when we press the top piece back over it, they will interlock and bond beautifully. The two clay pieces will grip each other securely completely eliminating any chance of them separating or coming apart once dry. To stick them together, I am going to lose tiny piece of clay by mixing it a bit of water. This create a paste that we can use just like glue, adding little water and mix it and, I will apply this clay paste right over our crisscross pattern on the base. Next, I will scratch the same crisscross pattern onto the bottom of the top piece as well. Once both sides are scored, I will formally press and stick the top piece onto the base. After sticking the pieces together, we are going to make the front opening just a little bit wider. Using the knife, carefully cut along the same *** to broaden the opening. Do carefully. Once they're done, it's time to adjust and reshape the entire structure finally. We will use our ruler and ball tool to correct the shape. Smooth out the whole surface using a damped finger. At this point, you can place also your miniature pods right on top of the chula to check the fit. This helps you see if they sit evenly, so you can adjust the top accordingly. If you like, you can also add a border around the bottom base. To do this, simply make a roll with clay. Just like before, score a criss cross pattern on both the base and the bottom of the clay role. Apply a little water and firmly stick the role in place. And with that, our chula is fully structured and ready. Now, we need to let it dry completely. To prevent any cracking, it's very important to let it dry slowly or that cover it loosely with a piece of cloth, a tissue paper, or a poly bag, and keep it in a safe spot away from direct sunlight or heavy drafts of wind. Slow drying will ensure your taste stays completely strong and crack free. Now let's leave our beautiful julla to dry completely. Once it's fully dry, we will move on to the next exciting part, bringing into life with some gorgeous colors and tradition patterns. 6. Long Necked Water Pot: Welcome back crafters. Today, we are going to upscale our pottery skills by making a gorgeous miniature Surahi. In traditional Indian homes, Surahi is used to store drinking water, keeping it naturally chilled and refreshing during the hot summer days. It is very similar to the Matka, but what makes it special and challenging is its long elegant neck. I will guide you through the exact finger moments and rolling techniques needed to achieve this beautiful shape perfectly. Let's get started. To start making our say, I am taking 20 grams of clay. Now, if you look at the madca we created earlier, Asura is quite similar in size, except that it features a long neck. The overall volume and base size will be almost the same as our madca. We will first roll the clay into a smooth ball. To shape the neck, we will use our fingers to gently pinch the clay on one side while continuously rotating it. Slowly keep rolling and pulling it upwards to aluminate. As you do this, you'll notice it starts looking like a long taper roll at the top, while the bottom part where the water is stored remains perfectly round. Now, let's place it right next to our t car to check the length. If you feel the neck is a bit too long, simply use a pair of scissors to snip off the excess clay. After cutting, continue to adjust the shape by gently pressing and rolling the clay, keeping it rotating slowly in your hands. Next press the bottom base slightly. This will create a flat bottom so that when we set the Surahi down, it stays perfectly stable, stands upright, and doesn't wobble or tilt. To hollow out the neck, you can use the back of a paint brush or umbll tool. I am going to use the back of a paint brush for this. Gently rotate the paint brush as you carefully insert it into the center of the neck. This twisting motion will smoothly create a cavity and hollow it from the inside. Make sure you don't just put it straight in as that might ruin the shape. Always insert it while rotating. Just like we inserted it when it's time to pull the paint brush out, make sure to rotate it gently as you withdraw it. Now, as you can see, the neck is perfectly hollowed out. Next, let's adjust the overall shape once again by rotating it to get that flawless smooth finish. Slightly tamper your finger with water and gently rub the entire surface to make it perfectly neat. Be very gentle with your touch during this step as we don't want to distort our beautiful shape. Miniature craft takes a lot of patience. Do not rush this step. Take your time and smooth it nicely. The better the shape now, the more beautiful it will look after painting. Use a very soft ur. If you press too hard, the clay will lose its shape. We want our sai to look neat and clean. A little bit of water helps to fix any tiny lines. See how smooth it is becoming now. It already looks like a real mini pot. Just a few more seconds of smoothing and we are done. Take your time, keep your focus, and enjoy the magical transition of this clay. Now, I'm placing a round cutter around the base of our surai. I will gently rotate the cutter so that bottom part becomes perfectly round. Next, let's make the handle, but first check your hands and your workspace. We use water earlier, everything might be damp. Please dry your hands and your surface completely. Once dry, take a very small piece of clay and roll it thin. Now, let's shape it. We will bend it like a reverse a shape. The top curve should be a bit bigger and the bottom curve should be smaller. Cut the excess part. For now, I'm just placing it here to check the size. We are not joining it yet. Adjusting the shape, cut the top end of the roll, just a little bit to make it straight. This will help it stick properly. Now we will attach it. The top will go just below the mouth of the neck and the bottom will go on the round base. Use a toothpick to make a rough texture on both joining spots, applying little water and press it. Use a toothpick to blend the clay. Or you can also use glue here. I am applying a little bit of glue because it helps to stick much better gently press it and adjust the shape. Blending the clay. Check both sides to make sure it fixed well. Here we go. Our Surahi is finally ready. Now we will leave it to dry slowly. For that, you can cover it with a tissue paper or a soft cloth. Place it in a safe spot away from direct sunlight or heavier. We want it to dry very slowly. Once it's completely dry, we will start the color and painting work. 7. Coal Stove: Come on, let's start making the Sigur or charcoal stove. We place charcoal on the top portion right over the net. The lower opening is used to burn the charcoal from biw and it also collect the ash. On the very top, we have pot rest where cooking pots are placed. Let's get started and make it. For this, I have taken 28 grams of clay. You can take up to 30 gram first, let's roll this clay to make a smooth ball. After that, make a glass shape, press it from the broadside and we will slowly create a cavity inside by pressing finger. Just go slow and gentle. Now, we need to make the bottom flat so our piece stays stable. Place it on the surface and press it down just a little bit. Also make sure the thickness of the cavity ball is the same all around. Roll it slowly to make every side perfectly even. Smooth surface using them finger. Let's use a ball tool. Now, rotate it slowly inside the cavity. This will make the inside part super clean and smooth. Now, turn the piece upside down and press it softly on the surface. This will make the top is perfectly level. Use your damp finger to smooth out the surface. Check the thickness of the walls again and adjust it nicely. Take your time to do this step. After adjusting the shape and making it smooth all around, let's move to the bottom part now. We will make a small rectangular cut here. In a real sig, this cut helps to pass the air for burning charcoal and you can also clean the ash from here. Make a small rectangular cut, slowly scoop out the clay from that spot. Take it out gently to make a neat opening. Now, use a ball tool or any other tool to smooth out the ages of this rectangular opening. Make it look nice and clean. Smooth the surface. Next, we need to make the net inside. For this, we will use toothpicks. We will gently insert the toothpick from one side, then cross it to make a proper net design. But before inserting Maser and cut the toothpick to the right side, if you cut it after inserting, it will be very difficult and you might ruin the shape of your IgD. We will slowly insert three pieces of toothpick to make the net. I have already inserted the first piece in the center. Now we will insert the two side pieces. Their length will be shorter than the centerpiece. Push them carefully so they don't stick out of the clavll. Make sure to measure them exactly before you insert and place them. Insert the third one. Use a toothpick to adjust their placing perfectly. After that, use a DM finger to smooth out the points where you inserted them. This will hide the holes, so they are not visible anymore. M now we will make the pots on top for that. Make three very small clay balls and stick them on the top at an equal distance. Score the surface first. Or you can apply glue there. Just press them gently. With this, our Sigrid is ready to dry to dry this piece, cover it with a tissue paper or a soft cloth, so it dries slowly. Once it's completely dry, we will paint and decorate it. 8. Mortar and Pestle: Hello, everyone. Welcome to the class. Today, we are going to make another beautiful and traditional piece for our miniature kitchen set. We will make a mini oak le and mussel, which is a traditional mortar and pestle. In every Indian kitchen, an oaklas used to crush holes, spices, ginger, or how to bring out the real flavors. It is very important part of our traditional cooking style. Making this miniature is going to be so much fun. I will show you some super easy techniques to get the right shape, perfect depth, and cleanages. By the end of this project, your miniature kitchen will look even more authentic. So are you ready? Let's grab our clay and start making for this present, I have taken 30 grams of clay. First, we need to condition that clay properly. Knead it well with your hands to make it smooth, soft, and completely crack free before we start shaping it. Now, take out a small amount of clay from this and keep it aside to make the oakley stick or pestle litter. With the remaining clay, we will first make a smooth wall and then give it a drop shape or a glass shape. Keep pressing it on the surface. Next, use your thumb to press down into the center. Keep pressing and pushing the clay to make a cavity or a proper hole inside. While doing this, gently shape the border portion all around to create the perfect ball of the Opti Make sure that the thickness of the Oakley wall is same all around. To make the top part perfectly flat and level, place the piece upside down on the surface and press it down very gently. Check the inner cavity. If you want, you can also use a ball tool to press the clay. Place the ball tool right in the center and slowly roll it along the inner surface. Keep the thickness of the ball around five men. Do not make it too thin. Um, Also, press the base down nicely so the oak lea stays stable and doesn't tip over. After that, dampen your finger with a little water and smooth out the surface completely. Slowly rotate the mortar and keep smoothing out the surface from all sides. Make sure to smooth both the inner side and the outer side nicely. Gently roll it on surface. So now our Oakley is ready. So let's make the basin. For this, we will take the remaining clay that we kept aside earlier and roll it into an even shape. The height of this pel should be around twice the height of our oaklay cut the excess length. Now, place it right there on the surface and shape it nicely. Remember, this is just a simple roll. We don't need to give it any texture. Once done, our oakley and pel are ready to dry. When you keep the psil for drying, make sure to lay it down flat on the surface. Do not stand it inside the oakley After they are dry, we will paelt them. 9. Hand Mill: Hi, everyone. In this lesson, we are going to make a beautiful miniature version of our traditional Indian jockey, the ancient hand operator stone grinder. It consists of two stone disk. You pour the grains through the center hole of the top part and when you rotate it using the handle, the grain get crusted between both pieces to turn into fresh flour. Making this working miniature is going to be super fun, let's get started. I have already conditioned the clay and this is around 45 gram. Along with the clay, I have also kept some tools ready. I have two cutters of different sizes, one ball tool, and these two small wooden sticks, we will use these sticks to make the handle of the chucky. We have divided the clay into two equal parts. From the first part, we are making a smooth ball after making the ball, flatten it slightly, and roll it out evenly using a ruler. Do not roll it too thin, maintain a good thickness. Now I have a cutter, which is five centimeter in diameter, place this cutter on the clay and press it down. After pressing, just rotate the cutter slightly. This will help the cutter release the clay easily. Now take the second part of the clay and make a similar ball, flatten it, and roll it out with the ruler, keeping the exact same thickness as the first one. We need to make the second circle completely identical, cut it out using the same five centimeter cutter and give it a slide rotate. Now both our identical circles are ready. We will keep the leftover clay inside a polybg so it stays fresh and we can use it for our next project. Now temper your finger with a little water and smooth out the sides and the top completely. As you can see, this gives a beautiful clean finish to surface. Whichever of these two circles look the best and has a better finish, you can choose that one as your top part. Now I have taken this small cutter, which is around 1 centimeter in size. We will make a hole right in the center of the disk you choose for the top. Just press the gutter down, rotate it slightly, and there you go. Look at that perfect hole. Now we are creating a texture using the ball tool. We will make our pattern on the upperside of the lower piece and also on the underside of the top piece. Even though this pattern won't be visible from the outside, it gives a very realistic feel. In a real jockey, grains are placed between these rough surface to grind them by hand. If you want, you can also use a toothpick instead of a ball tool for this step. Just press down gently with the ball tool or the toothpick to make random small dots. You can create this same texture on the underside as well. Now in the center portion of the bottom part, we will insert a small stack. This is two centimeter stake that goes right here. On top of this, we will place the upper circle. To rotate the top part, we will insert another two centimeter stick on one side to make the handle. Remember, this handle will stay only in the upper part. If you want, you can use blue here to stick it properly. We will keep both parts separately and let them dry to dry them, cover them with a tissue paper or a cloth and allow them to slow dry. After that, we will paint and decorate our chucki 10. Grinding Stone: Hi, everyone. Welcome back. In this lesson, we are going to make another iconic piece for our traditional Indian kitchen set the sil Buta, which is known as flat grinding stone and pestle. Before we had electric grinders and food processor, the sil buta was the ultimate heart of every Indian kitchen. It has two main parts, a flat, heavy stone base called the sill and a smaller cylindrical rolling stone called the buta. When you place fresh coriander, mint, garlic, or whole spices on the sill and grind them manually using the butter, it doesn't just crush them. It release natural oils that give food an unbeatable rich aroma and taste. Trust me, no modern mixer can ever beat the flavor of a chutney made on a traditional sil butter. Recreating this trusting charm in a miniature size using clay is going to be incredible fun and satisfying. So let's roll up our sleeves and get started. For the Silvera, we will take around 30 grams of clay and condition it really well. If you feel your clay is a bit hard, just add two to three drops of water and knead it. I will become soft and perfect again. I'm conditioning it nicely now. After this, make a roll, flatten it. We will make a rectangular slab with it. Just flatten it out using an acrylic roller. Now we will cut its edges straight. Look at the thickness. It's around five. Let's cut it straight first. The width is three centimeter and the length is five centimeter. Now we have a rectangular slab, three centimeter wide and five centimeter long. Keep the leftover clay from the cutting aside, we will use it later. The final length is five centimeter. Now from the top, we will mark 1 centimeter on both sides and also mark the exact center point. Okay. Next make a slanting cut from the center mark down to the side mark on both sides. If you prefer you can keep it as a simple rectangle, give it a soft curve at the top, or even shape it like this. Now we will create an impression border all around. This is completely optional, so you can skip it if you want. Leaving about half a centimeter from the edges, gently press a ruler to create lines that will act as a border. Do this slowly on the sides. Gently press it. Once the border is ready, dampen your finger with a little butter and smooth out all the ices. You can leave the top surface as it is. The top surface of a silbata is always rough and texture to create that texture. We are going to use a toothpick, though you can also use a ball tool. Just poke the toothpick gently on the top surface, making sure to leave the border area clean. Create this rough texture only on the inside part. You can also use a ball tool if you like. You can make these dots in a straight line or just keep them completely random. Now that our texture is ready, we will make it second part, which is called the pale or Buta. To make it, I'm using the leftover clay from the earlier cutting, condition the clay. We will roll it into a long cylindrical shape. Once rolled, we will keep only the required length and cut off with excess. Mm for the thickness, make sure it's just slightly thicker than our base piece for the lens, since our base base width was three centimeter, we will keep the pasel length just a little shorter than that. This size is perfect so that we can easily place it on top and mimic making chutney. Make sure both sides are cut completely straight. After giving it the perfect shape, we will use a toothpicke to create the same rough texture all around it. After reading the texture, smooth both ends with a damp finger, then place a ruler on one side and gently roll it back and forth to create a beautiful potter. Do the same on other side. Now, place the pescel on the base to check it and look our silbata set is ready. Let's wait for these pieces to dry completely. After that, we will start with the coloring and painting process. See you all with the next lesson. M. 11. Pan : Welcome back to our miniature series. In this lesson, we are going to add a beautiful new piece to our kitchen collection by making this cute little frying pan. I will show you some very simple ways to get a perfect round shape and smooth out the edges cleanly. We will also look at how to attach this delicate handle perfectly and the right way to dry your piece so it stays scrap free. Our miniature set is coming together so beautifully, let's get started. For this, I have taken around nine gram of clay conditioning it well. I have already conditioned the clay, make a ball and flat it using acrylic roller. After flatting it, I am using the tip of my roller to give it a nice hollow shape. Make sure to choose a cutter leid that is slightly larger than two centimeter and cut a circle. But apply a little talcum powder or oil on the roller tip so that the clay doesn't stick to it. Now I will place this circle right on top of the rollers flat tip. Make sure the circle is placed right in the center of the rollers tip. Now, gently press the excess clay downwards to form the sides of the pen. Do this slowly. As the clay spreads, you might see some minor crack. Don't worry about them. Dampen your finger and smooth them out. I'm pressing it down slowly and then we will place it upside down on the surface to flatten the bottom base as well. Smooth out the surface. When we press the clay, the ages got a bit spread out and uneven. To fix this, we will use a craft knife to cut away the uneven parts. This will make the ages of a pen perfectly straight and even all around. Slowly rotate the ruler as you cut along the edges and remove the excess clay. Now, place it down on the surface and gently lift the ruler to separate it. Use a dam finger to clean up any rough spots. You can also gently press the ruler over it to level everything out perfectly. I once the shape is perfect, we will use the remaining clay scraps to make the handle for our fan. First, we will condition the clay nicely. I'm adding just one or two drops of water to it. Actually, after cutting, I left the clay uncovered outside. I got a little dry to soften it up. I am adding a tiny bit of water and conditioning it again. Now that the clay is soft, I have rolled it out. Make a even role. We don't need such a long roll. We will only need a small portion of it for the handle, press it down with a ruler to flatten it, cut the excess part. I'm keeping the length three centimeter and cutting up with excess. Next, I will trim the width just a little bit. To join this with a pen, we will bend about half a centimeter of one end into an L shape. We will stick this part to the pen like this. For a stronger bond, make sure to score the side of the pan first, apply glue, and then press the L shaped part firmly onto it to stick it well. Now I'm planting the L shaped part into the pen body. Now when you place the pen flat on the surface, you will notice the handle stays up in the ear. Since the clay is still soft, the handle might drop or bend downwards. To prevent this, you need to place something underneath for support. You can simply roll a tiny ball of extra clay and tuck it right under the handle. Leave it there until the entire piece dries completely and then we can easily remove it. If you want to add a realistic touch, you can make a small hole at the end of the handle using a toothpick or a ball tool. After creating the whole, make sure to place the clay ball underneath again to keep the handle well supported. Now, we will leave it to dry just like before, cover it gently with a tissue paper or let it dry slowly. 12. Winnowing Basket: Welcome back to our miniature series. Today we are crafting something very special and traditional a charge or winnowing basket. Traditionally, a charge is used to clean grains by separating them from dust or husk. It's such an iconic piece of our culture, and adding it to our miniature kitchen will give it that perfect rusting charm. In this lesson, we will shape the beautiful piece using our clay. It's a simple yet very rewarding project. Let's get started and bring this traditional piece to life. Now I'm conditioning the clay. For this, I have taken around 25 gram of it. However, we won't need all of it for this project. Any clay scrap left after cutting can easily be reused for your next project. First, we will roll the clay into a ball and flatten it. After that, use a roller to flatten it properly. We need to keep the thickness around three to five. Now, we will cut a rectangle from this. M ring around four by five centimeter, four centimeter width and five centimeter length. To shape the basket, we need the top to be broader and the bottom to be narrow. Make two slanting cuts along the length, tapping inwards towards the bottom. This will give us the correct shape with a wider top and a narrow bottom end. Now, we need to round off the top edges. Take your cutter and press only half of its side onto the top corner. This will cleanly cut the corner without leaving any accidental impression on the other side. Making the top is perfectly round. Now that the top is broad and rounded and the bottom is narrow, use a wet finger to gently smooth out all the s. Next, we will create the texture using a ruler, press slanting lines in one direction first. Then make slanting lines in the opposite direction at equal distance. It will form a perfect cross pattern on top. After creating the texture, place the piece in the center of your palm to give it a curved shape, gently press the sides and the top is inards leaving the bottom part flat. Focus only on curving the sides and the top area to create a natural cup shape for the basket. Gently lift the ses bit by bit, making sure not to apply too much pressure all at once. Take your time and do this slowly and with patience. You can also use a ruler to gently help lift and shape the ages. If your clay is too soft or loose, the as you are lifting will not be able to hold their shape. When conditioning your clay, make sure to keep its original texture and do not add any extra water. Just keep shaping it gradually like this. I am pressing it gently between two scales to hold the structure bet your finger slightly and smooth out the edges to get a clean finish. You can use the ball tool also. To lift the curve top edge, you can use a cutter for support. Just make sure the other side of the cutter doesn't leave an unwanted impression on your piece. I am using a larger cutter here for the top section. When lifting the sides with the scale, keep the scale tilted. Position them so they are wide apart at the top and closer together at the bottom to help maintain the tap out shape of the basket. Now that it's shaped, I am gently pressing the center. Make sure not to press too hard. Otherwise, the texture and cross pattern we create will flatten out. Now we will leave this piece to dry. Once it's completely dry, we will move on to the coloring and painting it. See you in the next lesson. Hello. 13. Plate,Bowl,Spoon and Tumbler: Hello, everyone. In this lesson, we are going to craft complete miniature thal set from stet. We will start by shaping the main plate with these beautiful raised Ss and then we will sculpt the matching bowls, a tiny spoon and a glass. I will guide you through the step by step process of shaping, hauling, and refining each piece. Let's get started. Take a small portion of clay and condition it throughly. Once done, roll it into a neat ball and flatten it completely. We are making the plate first, roll out the clay, so it's slightly larger than the final size we need, keeping the thickness 2-3. To shape the plate, I am using two small containers of different sizes, which are actually empty toothpick box. The large container will act as a cutter to punch punch out the perfect circle. The smaller one will be used to lift the edges from the rim of our plate. Now I'm pressing the larger container down to cut the circle, which measure around 4.5 centimeter in diameter. Remove the excess clay from around the ages, then place the same container pack on top, press down gently and give it a slightly twist to make sure the ages are perfectly clean and neat. Make sure to put the remaining clay back into Polybg as we will using it to make the ball and spoon in next steps. Now, take the smaller container, which is around 3.5 centimeter in diameter and place it right in the center of our clay circle, so it sticks gently. Next, lift the clay piece together with the container, turn it upside down, and start gently pressing the edges. Gently press it down bit by bit, just like we did earlier with the pen to smoothly lift and shape the rim. As you press it this way, you might notice some slightly cracks because the clay spreads as you press, these are bound to happen. We will smooth them out later by wetting our finger. We will also trim the edges for a neat finish as pressing the clay causes it to spread slightly. Use a knife to slowly trim it and level the edges. After that, wet your finger slightly and rub it along the rim to smooth everything out perfectly. Now, carefully remove the clay plate from the container. The ship might distort a tiny bit while taking it off, so make sure to gently rotate it and apply very light pressure to slide it out. Once it off, just wet your finger and smooth out the sheep again. Now place that same small container back onto the plate and gently rotate it. This will help correct any minor distortion. Our plate is ready. Now let's make the balls to go with it. We can use the leftover clay straps from trimming the plate for this, go ahead and condition this clay thoroughly. Now make a ball and use the acrylic roller to flatten it evenly. Next, I'm using a marker pen cap as a mini cutter to punch out a small circles. We will do this twice to get two circles ready for our two bowls. Next, play the clay circle right in the center of your palm, take a ball tool, press it gently into the middle and lightly rotate it. This will help cup the circle. It curves upward and perfectly form the shape of a deep little bowl. Now, place the bowl onto your work surface and gently press down in the center. This will flatten the base, ensuring your bowel sit perfectly upright and remains stable. That makes a great super study bowl. Now for the second ball, place the clay circle in center of your palm, press down using the bowl tool and rotate it gently along the sides to create that perfect rounded cup shape. Once the bowl shape is formed, place it on your work surface and give the center one final gently press, so the base become perfectly flat and stable, just like the first one. So plate and two bowls are ready. Keep them separate from the plate while they dry. Now, let's make a tiny little spoon. Take a very small amount of clay and roll it out in your palm. Roll one end slightly thinner to form the handle, then gently flatten that section with your finger. Now take the other end, which is slightly thicker and press into it with your ball tool to create a small scoop. This will give you the shape of a spoon. Carefully adjust the handle and if needed, trim off any extra length to get the perfect size. Since this is such a tiny delicate piece, make sure to handle it with extra care. I am using a ruler to gently press and flatten the handle further. And look at that. Our cute little spoon is ready. Let me show you how to make the glass, take a small amount of clay and shape it into a tear drop. Taping it into a neat pyramid like shape, keep one end pointed and flatten the upper broader part. This flat section will become the mouth of our glass. Now gently insert the back end of a paintbrush into that broader part, slowly rotate it to hollow out the inside and create a clean cavity for our glass. Smooth it with wet finger. Check the thickness of the glass walls from all sides and adjust them by pressing gently with a paintbrush. Now, to make the flat paste, simply cut off the pointed part at the bottom. And then use a ruler to press it gently. Mm If you feel the walls of the glass are a bit thick, they can easily be paint thinner. To do this, just insert the paint brush inside again and rotate it like this, pressing gently and slowly from the inside. And with that, our glass is complete. Now that all our pieces are shaped and ready, let's set them aside to dry. See you in the next lesson with another miniature beauty. Oh 14. Woke: In this lesson, we are going to make this cute little mini kadaiv. It's a very delicate tiny piece. So let's jump right in and start creating. Before we start shaping the main body, I'm taking out a tiny piece of clay for the handles and setting it aside. Make sure to keep this piece covered so it doesn't dry out while we work. Now, take this piece of clay and roll it into a neat ball. Place the ball on your palm and use your finger or a ball tool to press right into the center. Keep rotating it slowly as you press. This will gently thin out the walls and create a perfect cavity insides of our kai. Just keep rotating and the thickness of the walls to make sure they are completely even all around. If you feel it is too thick anywhere, just press it down slowly and gently to thin it out. Now, place it on your surface and gently press right in the center so the bottom become a little flat and stable. Give it a light press from the top as well. After that, temper your finger slightly and smooth out the edges. To smooth out the edges, you can also use a paintbrush, dampen the brush slightly and gently run it along the edges to make them perfectly smooth. And there we have it. The basic shape of our kara is ready. Now we need to add the handles. Take that small piece of clay we saved and kept covered earlier and condition it well to make it soft and liable again. Now we are going to roll this clay into a long thin cylinder. Once that's done, cut out two pieces that are each three centimeter long. You can either make one single long roll and cut two, three centimeter pieces from it, or simply roll out two separate three centimeter long pieces. Pick up one roll and bring both ends together to form a loop or a circle. Where the two ends meet, press them flat using a knife or any flat tool. This flattened part is what we will stick onto our Kadi. Do the exact same thing with the second piece, form it into a neat loop or circle, bring the two ends together to stick them, press that part flat. Once both handles are shaped, apply a tiny drop of water onto those flattened ends. Now apply a little water where you want to stick the handles on the boob. Use a toothpick to scratch and score the surface. This scoring will help the handles bond tightly. Now, place the handle right where we score the surface. Once it's collision, use your toothpake to gently press and pull a little bit of clay from the handle down onto the caddies body. Blending the clay like this ensure it sticks permanent Repeat the exact same process to fix the second handle right on the opposite side, apply a little water. Score the surface again with your toothpick. Place the second handle right there, press it gently into place using the toothpick, and blend it clay smoothly onto the body of the rope, lock it in. Now temper your paint brush and use it to smoothly blend and flatten the surface. Look at that. Our cute little book is ready. Keep in mind that the handles are very delicate these days. So handle your piece with extra care. You can gently adjust the position of the handles right now if they need straightening. If you notice any tiny crack or uneven surface, just take your damp paint fresh and smooth out gently. Now carefully pick it up and set it aside to dry completely. Once it's fully dry, we will paint and decorate it. 15. Cooking Pot: Now we are going to make a patla or a traditional cooking pot. Food cooked in these traditional pots has a completely unique aroma and a taste that you just can't get anywhere else. It truly brings back the nostalgia flavor of authentic slow cooked village meal. For this, I have taken around 20 gram of clay. First, give it a really through conditioning, just like you have doing for all our previous pieces to make it smooth and crack free. So knead it for a while. Once it's well conditioned, roll the clay into a smooth ball. Place it down on your work surface, give it a light press. Then use both hands to rotate and pack the sides until they are completely straight. Or you can gently roll it back and forth on your craft mat or surface to even it out. Now let's flatten the top surface as well. You can easily do this by pressing it flat with your hands or you can use a flat disc or a ruler to get a perfectly even finish. Just give it a gentle press from the top. It will flatten right out. Now, we need to hollow this out from the inside. To do this, you can either press down slowly with your thumb or use a ball tool. I'm going to leave the *** slightly thick and slowly press into the center with my ball tool, pushing the clay inward and downward to create that nice, hollow cooking pot shape. So after using the ball tool, I am now pressing gently with my thumb while slowly rotating the piece. The main thing to watch out for is that the walls remain evenly thick all around. They shouldn't be thin in one spot and thick in another. Keep the side perfectly straight. So just keep rotating it slowly and adjusting the shape as you go. So taking my time and slowly adjusting the shape, the diameter of this spot is around 2.5 centimeter. Once the shape is well adjusted, we need to gently pinch the clay along the rim and turn it outwards. So I am slowly pinching the clay between my thumb and finger and then turning it gently outwards. We will do this carefully all the way around the rim to give it a neat, even flair. After pinching and turning the rim outwards all the way around, I am gently pressing it from the top with a flat disc to make sure it's perfectly level. You can use a ruler for this step two. Then I am using the ball tool inside once again to refine the cavity, neatly adjusting and smoothing out the final shape of our pod. Rotate the ball tool. Our shape is completely ready now. So let's move on to the finishing touches. Damp your finger with a little water and gently smooth out the entire surface all around. Take your time and use a very light touch to wipe away any fingerprints or even spots. Smooth out the sides as well. To make the flared rim stand out even more, you can use a toothpick. Just place the toothpick horizontally right under the rim from the outside and gently press. This will push the rim slightly upwards and outward, give it a much sharper, more defined look. I am using my dam finger once again to do the final finishing, smoothly rotating the entire pod as I go. So now we just need to focus on this finishing work to make sure the piece looks perfectly polished and ready. Make sure the inside surface is completely smooth, too, so don't forget to do the final finishing on the interior. If you feel the walls are a bit too thick in any particular spot compared to the rest, just take your ball tool to press gently against that area, and even it out until it matches perfectly. Once the finishing is completely done, we will set it aside to dry. We want this piece to dry slowly to prevent any cracking. So cover it loosely with a tissue paper or a soft cloth, place it in a safe spot away from direct sunlight or harsh draft and let it dry naturally. Once it's fully cured, we will move on to the coloring and decorating it. See you in the next lesson. Oh 16. Sanding: All right. All these pieces are now completely dry. Before we move on to the coloring step, we need to send them down. Let's start the finishing process. As you can see, some of the surface are slightly rough. To make them perfectly smooth, we will do some live sending. For this, I am using a fine grade sandpaper, number 220. I will just cut a small piece from it and start sending the surface gently and slowly. Please note that the plate bowl and class are not included in this batch as I made them at the very end and they are still drying. However, if you don't have sandpaper on hand, you can also use a knife to carefully scrap off any uneven bits. Just please make sure to be extra careful while doing so. There isn't much work needed on this piece. It's solid smooth. This piece of sandpaper is worn up now, so I'm going to grab a fresh one. Sending with sandpaper dust create a little bit of dust. If that bothers you or if you have any issue with dust, here is an alternative. You can take a damp cloth and gently rub the surface with it. This will also make the surface smooth, giving you a completely dust free working experience. Just like before, you need to rub it very gently. Please handle it with extra care while wiping them down because their small handles are very delicate. Mm. Go ahead and finish all the pieces one by one using whichever method you prefer, either the sandpaper or the damp cloth. Doing this will make the surface of every single piece beautiful, smooth, which will help the paint go on evenly and look much more vibrant and clean once we color them. You might notice that I have spread up the video slightly for this part, but please make sure to take your time. You should work slowly gently and with a lot of patience. If by any chance you notice a small cry or a very uneven part on any of your pieces, don't worry. You can easily fix it by applying a tiny bit of fresh clay and rubbing it to smooth it out. For instance, take a look at the side of this clay stove. Right here, the surface looks a bit too uneven, so I am applying a small piece of clay over it. By rubbing it gently, I will blend it and smooth out the surface perfectly. Apply little water and rub it. The only thing is, we will now have to wait for this specific touch up part to dry completely before applying any color. But since it's just a tiny patch, it won't take much time at all to dry. If I notice any similar spots on any other pots, I will go ahead and fix them the exact same way. Just apply a little bit of clay and rub it. And with that, our pieces are ready for the next days. In our next part, we will finally start painting them, see you. 17. Coloring: Hi, everyone. Now, our pieces are completely dry and neatly sended. We are going to give them authentic traditional terracotta. I am using acrylic colors. I have taken brown, red, and a little bit of white to make terracotta shade. You can always adjust the proportions according to your preference to get the exact or the tone. Here is a very important protein before we start. Whichever custom shade you make, make sure to prepare a little bit of extra color. Save it in a small airtight container because matching this exact shade litter for quick touch ups can be quite tricky. This shed look decent, but let's test it out. Apply a little bit backside. Personally, I feel I can add a little bit more red to the mix because authentic terracotta has more of a reddish tone rather than a brownish one. Now let's start painting. We will begin with our mud car. Keep your brush strokes smooth and even. Try not to overload your brush with water as excess Mr. Can affect the glaze texture. Keep the paint rich and creamy. Make sure to color the mud car from the inside as well. And use a smaller crush. Now we will let this dry and move on to the grindstone. We are applying a very light coat on the inside of the grindstone so that it's texture remain visible. Since this grindstone comes in two parts, we need to paint both of them. It also has a small handle attached, so we will color that part too. Next, we are going to color the flat grinding stone or silvea which is traditionally used for grinding chutney. It will be the best if we paint the upper side first. Once that dries completely, we can turn it over and paint the bottom. Next is the traditional motar or the Oakley, which is traditionally used for pounding grain or brushing patty. Make sure to paint it all around as well as on the inner side. Moving on, it's time for the path or our traditional cooking pot. See how vibrant and rich it looks in this terracotta shade for this piece to make sure to coat the inner side neatly. To keep it steady and stop it from moving around, I am holding it from the inside using the back of another paint brush. We will leave the bottom for later once the top part is completely dry. Next, we will paint the soup or the traditional wowing basket, which is used for cleaning and shifting grains. It has a lot of beautiful woven texture on it, but we need to paint the entire piece. Make sure your brush reaches deep into all the fine texture lines, so no white spots are left. After that, it's time for Surai our long necked water pot to paint this easily without getting my fingers mold dirty, I have inserted the handle of a paint brush right into its narrow neck. This allows me to lift it up securely and color it from all angles effortlessly. Now, we are moving on to the biggest piece in our entire set, the traditional clay stove or chula. Just like our other items, we need to cover all sides throughly including the entire inner section where the firewood traditionally goes. Make sure your brush gets into all the corners. For now, we will leave the bottom untested, so we can handle it easily. Once the entire front and upper section is completely dry, we will turn it over and paint the bottom base. Let's ate it evenly from every angle. Now, coming back to our grindstone chucky, the lower part was still left. Let's paint that now. Make sure to cover it from all sides and don't forget to color the little wooden handle in the center as well. Next up is this cute tiny woke or Gadi. Look at that. By mistake, I painted the bottom side as well. But that's absolutely fine. This little accident happens. We will just move on to the inner side now. To keep the piece stable while painting the interior, I am using the back of another paint brush to hold it firmly in place. This way, I can easily color the intersection without smudging the wet paint on the outside. As for the bottom side, I will just go back and touch it up later once the inside is dry. Next up is the griddle Ottawa, which is used for making japats. Just like the previous piece, I am holding this one from using another paint brush, so I can color it easily. Now let's move on to the frying pan. Make sure to at the inner side throughly. We will leave the bottom side for later. Now, we are going to paint our Sigi or the charcoal Stoe. For this piece, make sure to get the paint deep inside into all the inner areas with your brush. If you find it a bit tricky, you can easily switch to a smaller or thinner brush to reach those tight spots. It gives you much better control in those narrow spaces. For now, let all these painted pieces dry. They should be completely dry in about ten to 15 minutes and after that, we will turn them over and start coloring their lower parts. All right. It's been around 15 minutes and our pieces are now dry. This drying time can also depends on the weather, just make sure to let them dry completely before moving forward. I am coloring the base of the each piece. Once we finish coloring all the bases, we will move on to the most exciting part, decorating them. We will use white paint to create beautiful traditional pattern and design on top of the terracotta base. So see you in the next lesson. 18. Making Design : Now we will decorate them with white acrylic paint. First up, I have picked up the griddle or a Taba. On this piece, I am going to paint some delicate baby lines. To get these fine and precise detail on such a small surface, I'm using a triple zero round brush. This ultra fine brush is absolutely perfect for drawing tiny patterns effortlessly on miniatures without making them look messy. This is a very simple and minimal design. So you can easily paint it freehand. There is absolutely no need to pre mark or sketch it out beforehand. Now on both sides of the baby pattern, we are going to add small dots. To make these dots, I'm simply using the tip of my paintbrush. However, if you want perfectly even in uniform circles, you can also use a toothpick or ball tool instead. M. Next, we are going to create a pattern right in the center. To do this simply place one.in the middle and then arrange five or six dots all around it. It's an incredible easy way to create a lovely flower motif on your piece. Next up is our frying pan. On this piece, I'm painting simple dots all along the rim. Since this piece is extremely small, pattern made with dots or clean lines are much easier to execute compared to other designs. Once the rim is done, we will move to the handle and paint a single delicate wavy line along it. Finally, for the center of the pen, you can create a beautiful flower motif. To make this floral design, you can either use the same dot technique. We practice or draw small fine lines to form the petals. And it's done. Next up is the silbata or the traditional grinding stone. Along its sides, I'm creating a simple zigzag pattern. You can also think of them as a row of tiny triangles. It's amazing how these very simple minimal designs can instantly elevate our pieces and make them look beautifully detailed. Why painting if you happen to make a wrong stroke by mistake, don't worry at all. You can just wipe it using a earbud, clean the spot. And repaint it. Now moving towards the lower section, I am just painting a simple straight line across the bottom. After that, let's decorate the small stone, the pestle that we use to grind the chutney. For this piece, we will simply paint a single line or a small circle on both ends. And just like that, our grinding stone set is ready. Next step is the charge, which is called winnowing basket. On this these, I am painting a simple wavy pattern, but feel free to create any design or pattern of your choice. You can add rows of dots, paint a zigzag pattern, draw clean lines, or even create any other simple motives that you like. Now along the bottom, I am painting a simple straight line. Inside right underneath the wavy lines that we created on the SS, I am adding row tiny delicate dots With that, our winnowing basket is ready. Up next, we have this cute little bow. I am going to paint a pattern along its rim. But you can also extend your design to the outer surface if you like. The vlines I'm painting here actually sit right on the spreading slightly towards the outside. Once the rim is done, we will move to the handles. Please make sure to be very careful here as you paint some neat little dots on them. Now, going back to the by lines, we just painted on the rim. I'm going to add a few more dots right along the outerside of the pattern. After that, we'll move to the center of the wow and create that same flower motif. Place one single dot right in the middle and arrange five or six dots all around it form a beautiful flower pattern. It's ready now. Now we are going to decorate the chucky which is a hand operated trending mill. For this piece, we will only be painting the upper section along the top edges, I am drawing a baby line. Since this is a comparatively larger piece, painting it will be much easier compared to other miniatures we have done so far. Next, I am placing single dot on both sides of the wav line. Of course, feel free to create any design or pattern of your choice here. Finally, I am also adding a raw dots all around that circular part of the grinding mill. Even with just this much design, the grinding mill is already looking so lovely. Next up is the path or a traditional cooking pot. For this piece, we are going to pat a slightly different design. First, we will create a line along the inner side of the rim, which will act as a nice per After that, we'll move to the outer side of the rim and paint another circle to complete the border. As you can see, I'm continuously rotating the pod, moving it around to make it easier to paint a clean continuous line. Now, we are going to connect both of these circular border to do this. We will simply draw small vertical lines between them, keeping an equal distance from another. It's amazing how such a simple and basic pattern can instantly make a pot look absolutely beautiful and eye catching. What do you say? We can also add some design to the lower section of this spot. Moving towards the bottom, I'm painting a series of wavy lines all around the base instead of calling them wavy lines. You can also think of them as continuously loop or row of small C shape. I'm just going to repeat this pattern all the way around the bottom boundary. It's done. Next, we are going to decorate the surai which is a traditional terracotta water picture. On its widest, most broader portion, I'm going to paint a simple wavy line. As you paint, remember that there is true beauty in imperfection. Don't worry about making it absolutely flawless. On both sides of this wavy line, you can either add dots or create a simple leaf pattern. To make the leaves, just apply simple long brush strokes that naturally take the shape of tiny leaves. Keep rotating the Sura in a circular motion as you bop. Adding some dots too. Moving up, let's also paint a clean line around the rim of the pitcher's mouth. Finally, we'll add some evenly spaced dots along its handle. With that, our beautiful Sura is fully ready. It looks absolutely charming, doesn't it? Next up, we have the Oakley or mortar. Along the outer edge of the mortar, I'm painting a neat zigzag pattern. To enhance this look, I am placing a single dot right at each point it peak of the zigzag on the outside. After that, let's move to the grinding stick, which is known as a basil. On this piece, I'm drawing a delicate wavy line and placing tiny dots on both side of it. When you finally assemble or stick this piece down, make sure to keep this beautiful pattern facing right towards the front. Next up is the Jula or the clay soeOn the inner circular rim at the top, where the cooking pots are placed, I'm painting a neat row of dots all the way around. After that, we'll move to the lower portion and repeat the same dot pattern there as well. As you can see, there is quite a bit of empty space on both sides of the top circle. So we can easily add a couple of flower motifs here. Even down at the bottom right near the opening where the firewood is placed, you can paint another lovely flaw motif. And with that done. Now let's move on to our pot or the traditional mud ***. Just like before on the widest and most broader part of the center, I'm painting a neat zigzag pattern. Once the zigzak is done, I am adding a row of dots on both sides of it to fill up the space beautifully. Now let's move up to the rim where I am drawing a clean circular line along the outer edge. If you wish, you can also paint a small delicate motive right on the neck of the paw. And with that, our madca is completely ready. Next up is the Sigri, which is a traditional charcoal store. Around its lower opening, I am painting a clean line to create a neat border. This really helps to highlight and define its shape beautifully. Now all around this border, I am adding very fine delicate lines. After that, we'll move to the top sections, the potress where the pots are placed and decorate them with a small pretty flower motif right on top. And for the empty space left between these potres, I am filling it with some nice wavy lines to complete the top rim. Next, we have the Tali bowls and glass. Since these pieces were the last ones to dry, I have already applied the base coat of paint on them beforehand. Now we are going to paint the final patterns on top right in the center of the Tali or plate, I'm creating a pretty flaw motif using rods. The ses of this plate are very fine, so you can easily create a design here using simple dots or lines. It will come together very effortlessly. Now for the bowls and the glass, since their surface are also quite small, we will keep the pattern consistent. I am painting matching rolls or tiny dots around the rim of both the bowls. For the glass, I am drawing short delicate lines around the top outer section. And with that, all of our miniature pieces are fully painted. Just take a look at how incredible, beautiful and vibrant they all look together. I am absolutely in love with how this set has donned out. What do you see? Don't you think it looks amazing? 19. Final Note: And with that, we have come to the end of our miniature traditional cookware course. I am so proud of you for completing this journey with me. Now, it's your turn to share your beautiful creations. Please make sure to upload photos of your finished cookware pieces into the project gallery. I absolutely love seeing your work, and it brings me so much joy to witness your creativity come to life. As you share your prosects, always remember one thing. There is profound beauty in imperfections, especially with handmade miniatures. Those natural variations are what gives your pieces, character, warmth and that authentic traditional look. Don't worry about making them flawless. Your unique touches, what makes them special. If you enjoy creating this set and found this course helpful, please take a moment to leave a review. Your feedback means the world to me and helps other students find this class too. Don't forget to check out my other crafting courses right here. And if you want to see more of my daily work, tutorials and behind the scenes, you can follow and connect me on YouTube, Instagram and Facebook at Mona Arty Academy. Thank you so much for joining my class, and I am eagerly waiting to see your wonderful projects in the gallery until next time, keep creating Stay inspired, and I will see you very soon in another interesting project. Bye bye.