Linocut Printmaking Tools

1. Intro: Thanks for checking out this deep dive in printmaking tools. My name is Matt Reed. I've been involved in printmaking since 2017. I'm happy to share what I've learned with other artists. I've given overviews of printmaking tools in previous classes. But here, I'm going to explain a little bit more about the tools I use and why I use them. I should mention that there is no paid product placement here. Although I talk about specific brands, I'm doing so only to tell you about what works for me. After finishing this class, I encourage you to research and try out not just the brands I mentioned, but also alternative brands to find out what works best for your art style. For your class project, post an image of a lino cut print you've made and write about the tools you used. This will help other people who take this class gain perspectives on various lino cut tools beyond my recommendations. To learn more about the printmaking process, you can watch any of my other classes. If you're new to printmaking, I have a beginners class that covers the basics. Let's get started. 2. Blocks: The great block for beginners is the speed ball speedy car. They come in a variety of sizes and are very easy to carve. It's made from a soft, rubbery material that makes carving incredibly smooth. One downside is that transferring images can be a little messy. The pencil marks tend to smudge during the transfer. You may have to redraw your image to make it clearer before carving. That's why I like using speedy carve blocks for smaller pieces that don't require a ton of detail. For larger, more detailed pieces, I use Blick battleship, gray linoleum blocks. They're made of a firmer, sturdier linoleum. Make sure your blades are sharp, not just for details, but also for safety. Speaking of safety, keep in mind that while speedy carve blocks are soft enough to carve with minimal force. Carving the blix blocks is not as effortless. You do have to put some extra force into it, which may result in slippage of the blade. I highly recommend using a block hook to prevent that. This simple metal piece sits easily on your table and takes some of the force out of carving. Another problem that could arise from carving too stiff a block is a sore neck or shoulder. Pushing the blade into a stiff surface exerts force that can move up your arm into your shoulder and neck. To prevent that, you want to heat up the block before carving. You can do this easily by running a hair dryer over the block for a minute or so until it's soft enough to reduce strain while carving. Heating isn't necessary with speedy carve. Another way to reduce strain is by choosing the right cutters, which we'll get into in the next video. 3. Cutters: One of the most popular line of cut carving tools is the Speedball Speed carve set. Like most people starting out in line of cut, I learned this art form using a speedball cut. I kept using it for a few years, and it worked just fine. One cool thing about it is that you can store the blades inside the handle. It's a convenient and affordable option that gets the job done. However, as my print making volume increased, I felt it was time for an upgrade. I opted for file tools. First of all, I should note that these are a lot pricier than the speedball cutters. If you're new to line a cut, there's no sense in investing around $30 per single bladed tool, when you can spend $10 on a speedball tool with multiple interchangeable blades. But if you're getting serious about print making, it pays to put some of your print sale profits toward better tools. One huge plus to the file tools is how easily they cut through the linoleum. As I mentioned earlier, Blick battleship gray blocks are fairly sturdy, and speedball tools aren't the best fit for this block. I had to keep a hair dryer handy to heat up the block before each carving session to prevent straining my neck. With file tools, this is no longer necessary. These tools move through the block smoothly without having to pre soften with heat. That's because they're built not just for linoleum, but also for wood. I can't speak much to their wood carving capabilities, although I have used them on one fairly dense piece of wood with good results. Another aspect that keeps things moving smoothly is the handle shape. The mushroom shape ends fit comfortably in your palm, and the 70 millimeter metal blades are enough to allow you to safely place a finger near the end when you need added guidance for fine lines. I've been able to get the lines I need with just a handful of tools. But if you need more versatility in your lines, file has a large number of blade types and sizes so that you can gouge away large portions of your block or create fine details with a 1 millimeter blade. You'll find choices of V blades and U gouges, referring to the curve of the blade. I enjoy having the nearly flat sweep blade, which you can use to clear away lines left behind from the other blades. This is good for creating large portions of white space. These are the tools that I use, but there are other brands that other block printers love. Although I can offer firsthand insight on them, you may want to check out tools from Flex cut or Power grip and see what's right for you. 4. Inks: There are lots of great print making inks out there. I recommend starting with small bottles to see what works best for you. Since you can mix colors, there's no need to stock up on greens, purples, and oranges right away. Just get a starter pack with black, red, blue, yellow, and white for lightning your colors if necessary. Keep in mind that there are two main kinds of ink, water soluble and oil based. If you're printing at home and cleaning your materials in a bathroom sink, definitely make sure you're using water soluble as oil based could stain your sink. Oil based dinks also require more than water for cleanup. Vegetable oil works great for washing off oil based ink. But of course that can't go down your home sink. Save the oil based dinks for when you have access to a print making studio with a heavy duty sink. I found that water based relief inks work just fine, but oil based inks give the print an added touch of richness and boldness. Gamblin has an excellent line of inks as does speedball. 5. Brayers: S. The brayer is an essential print making tool used to evenly distribute ink across your printing block. Braers ensure a smooth, consistent layer of ink and come in various sizes and materials, each suited for different print making techniques and ink types. One of the most popular brands for beginners is speedball. Speedball brayers are widely available and affordable, making them a great choice for those just starting out in printmaking. These brayers typically feature a hard rubber roller, which is durable and easy to clean. Speedball brayers are versatile, working well with both water based and oil based inks. They also come in various sizes, allowing you to choose the right tool for your project. However, speedball brayers do have some limitations. The hard rubber can sometimes create a slightly textured surface on your print, which may not be ideal for all projects. Additionally, over time, the rubber may degrade or become less responsive, especially if not properly maintained. To keep your brayers in good shape, wash them after each use, but clean them gently with water that's warm but not too hot. If you're looking to upgrade your print making tools, you might consider Tacach press. They offer high quality brayers with polyurethane rollers, known for their durability and ability to hold ink well. These brayers provide excellent coverage and are particularly good for large scale prints. Another more affordable option is the Iovart brayers, which feature comfortable handles, and in some cases, interchangeable rollers, allowing you to switch between soft and hard rubber, depending on what's best for the project you're working on. Ultimately, the choice of brayer depends on your specific needs, budget, and the type of printmaking you're doing. As you progress in your printmaking journey, you may find it beneficial to have a selection of brayers for different purposes. 6. Paper: What kind of paper should you print? Well, you want something thick and sturdy. Standard computer printer paper just won't do your art, justice. I use Arnhem 16 18 by Speedball. It's a 100% rag acid free print making paper with a semi smooth vellum surface. It's not cardstock thick, but it definitely has a substantial fiel. Where does the Arnhem 16 18 name come from? Well, it's made near the city of Arnhem in Holland in a mill that's produced fine paper since 16 18. Because this paper is strong and highly absorbent, it'll accept multiple layers of ink, making it great for things like reduction line of cut, as well as other print making techniques. 7. Barens: Now, let's talk about barns, tools you use for pressing your designs onto paper. When I first started print making, I got a speed ball bearing, which works great. It has a large, smooth surface, and it's very easy to press. If you want to go even simpler, you don't have to buy a barn at all. Just grab a smooth spoon from your kitchen. You can even use your hand, although that may not provide the best amount of pressure and smoothness. The tool I use for pressing is a print frog glass barn, made by iron frog press. Print frogs are made of hand blown recycled glass and come in a wide variety of styles. It's the tool you won't stash away between printing sessions. I keep mine on my desk as part of the room decor. Of course, looking nice isn't as crucial as functionality. Fortunately, the print frog is very functional. The smooth round handle fits perfectly in the palm of your hand and creates a comfortable but sturdy grip. It's heavy enough to provide enough pressure for an evenly inked print. Meaning you can ease up on the elbow grease and it glides across the paper amazingly smoothly. Yes, these items are pricey, so therefore dedicated print makers. If you're just starting out, you'll be fine with a spoon or a speed ball bearing. But if you're frequently hand pressing prints, I would recommend upgrading to a higher quality piece of equipment like a print frog. 8. Wrap-Up: There you go. More info on the tools I use to make prints. Again, these are what worked for me. You may find that different products are more suited to your needs. If that's the case, please describe what you use in the comments or class project section. I'm Matt Reno. You can find my work at mat reno.com. Thanks for watching this skill share class, and I look forward to seeing your prints.