Transcripts
1. Intro: Hello, I'm Isabel. Actually, I'm an artist, crafter and designer and
they're my brand, wild berry. And does any living
patterns for creating cozy accessories,
both self-published. I look collaborations with the arm companies
and publications. In this class for beginners, I want to show you
how to live in the round and this
basic knitting techniques and simple math to
design your own Civil Code. First, I will walk you
through construction and what needs to be
considered in design, including borders,
filling stitch patterns, and planning the dimensions. Next, in the practice
part of the class, I will show you a
strategically Technique, how tall it is around, how to do a stretch a binder. During the class, we'll create
a very practical project, a simple code of your design. You can learn your call in
cold weather to keep you warm. But it's also a great gift. Nothing idea may think is a
great activity to enjoy in your free time to relax and to create something that fits
your personal style perfectly. Using the materials and colors that you love
but cannot find anywhere in this class is a quick intro to new
thing in the round. We just want a
fundamental techniques and they will be able to
take the techniques and design logic behind the
cold periods you're next Cubase projects
after the class. It will also open the
possibility of taking up new types of knitting
projects for you in the future, such as cats, selves,
McKinsey, sweaters. If you are an absolute
knitting beginner, I recommend that you start
with my simple headman class. When you watch this class, you will receive a couple
of resources and materials. Design planner. I will encourage you to use worsted weight yarn and
five millimeter or US size eight circular
knitting needles with 60 centimeter
circumference at 24 ". But you can use any yarn and matching nothing unless
you have at home. Let's get started.
2. Class Project and Downloads: The project in this
class will be to design and make your own color. This can be a cold
covered in one of proposed stitch patterns on
your own state combination. You only need to share a
photo of your finished, need coal as a class project. But I encourage you also to
share your work in progress. To share your project. Scroll below the
class video and go to the Projects
and Resources tab. Then click on the
Create Project button. Don't forget to upload
a cover image as this is what will appear
in the project gallery. I have created two
resources for this class which you can download in
the resources section. The materials list with a
few links, recommendations. So we don't need to spend
too much time on research. And a quick guide for
designing pure coal, which outlines the simple math needed to design the piece, and a few stitch pattern
proposals to get you started. If you have any
questions for me, you can type them in
the discussion area. I'm really looking forward
to seeing your net projects. Next, we are going to cover the materials needed for
your knitting project. Let's get started.
3. Materials: Let's go over the materials that you will need
for the class. Remember that I prepared a resource list for
you to give you a few ready options if none of these are
available where you live. Here's what to look for. First yarn, I
recommend that you get a medium thick yarn which is
called worsted or add-on. Wait. Look for smooth yarn
in light colors, not black or dark navy. So it's easy to work with. Sarkozy accessories. I like working with wool, which has thermal
regulating properties, especially soft Merino wool. But you can opt for vegan
yarn like cotton or acrylic. I will be using Nevada
seven brothers nature yarn, which is a blend of
wool and tensile, you will need around 100, 250 g of worst Tian if you are creating
a simple color with me. However, if you decide to need a longer coal or infinity
scarf, you may need more. You will also need
circular knitting needles in five millimeter or usaid size with 60
cm or 24 " card. If you already have some urine at home that you want to use for this class and
you don't know what size of Knidos
to use with it. I included a few tips in
the resource list download. There are a few notions that you will need
for this class. A stitch marker, tapestry, needle, scissors, measure tape. And we'll watch for taking
care of your needs. If you don't have a
stitch marker on hand, you can use any small range that fits on your needles
real quickly. Make one stitch marker from yarn in contrast color by cutting a few centimeters
strand and thank it up so that a loop is created. Now that you know what materials are needed and how
to choose them, we're going to start
designing the coal.
4. Design Planning: In this class we will be creating a simple
code which will be constructed as a tube with
a set circumference along, along the length or height. So our customer will be the circumference when we
join in the round and then amount of rounds
that we will work with makeup for the
height of the Cold War. You can leave the
color in the bottom of direction or down. It doesn't really make a huge difference in
this construction. First, decide on the feet of the coal that
you want to create. Do want it to just
slightly hanging around your neck and
not be too high. Or maybe you will want
to knit a long call so that the fabric gathers
up around your neck. Or maybe a very wide
one that will rather hanger onto your neck
than the snag rounded. Maybe it will. What do need an infinity scarf in the round, which you can wrap twice or
more times around your neck. You can use any
colors you already have as a reference
for dimensions. Or if you don't have
a goal of yours, you can use a scarf
that you pin up around your neck and try it
on to help you decide. It is all basically a
matter of preference. The most important
consideration to keep is that the
coal circumference should be a bit larger than our head circumference so that you can wear
it comfortably. I will be creating a regular
coal with around 62 cm, so 25 " in circumference. And I want it to be around
35 cm or 4 " long next, the side of the loop. So the texture of the circle, choose the main stitch
pattern for the coal, you can choose the
stitch pattern that matches your head accessory, like the head one if you
took my head wound class, or you can choose a pattern from stitch dictionary or internet. I have prepared a
few stitch proposals in the design guide
to get you started. You can also follow
along with me as I create a most typical. Then think if you
will need a border, a border can have an
aesthetic function to create a visible edge and finishing field or a practical one, e.g. to prevent from curling, like it happens with
stuxnet stitch. If you want to have a border deciding what stitch pattern
you can choose, e.g. a, one-by-one Rib are two-by-two rib or even
one by 21 by three. It's good if both your
main stitch pattern and drip pattern have
matching stitch repeats, it doesn't have to
be exactly the same, but it is good if e.g. one is a multiplier of the
other or can match very close. It will make nothing
adapt much busier. Decide how much rubbing or border you want to
have on each side. Just a couple of centimeters
or a longer one. That's part of your
creative play. For Michael, I will use a two-by-two rib
with around 2 cm, a little less than an
inch on each side. Now that you have
the stitch patterns and dimensions chosen, it's time to create the swatch.
5. Swatching: Before we get into the simple
math for our coal design, we need to create a swatch to have a base for calculations. If sweat concept is new to you, is what is this square
created in the yarn and state in which you will
be needing a finished item. Swatching is an
important part to get that finished item
of intended dimensions. Because every person might need with a bit different tension and therefore fit a different amount of stitches per
inch or centimeter. The cases switch should
be created exactly how you will work apart
from this teaching yarn. Also, in the way that you will need an item flat
or in the round. When working in the round, we will only work on the
right side of the net. And to avoid needing a tube
and using too much yarn, I will show you a quick way of working swatch in the round. To estimate the statistic
costume for the swatch, have a look at the yarn label. Brands include
recommended tension there institutes,
institutes and drove. The cage is measured
over 10 cm or 4 ". So keep in mind to
knit the swatch a bit bigger than this to get
accurate measurements. So here I have my yarn label
and you can see that they recommend both the needle size and also the recommended gauge. So for five millimeter needles, they suggest 18 stitches. So I would focus on a few more. So just to show you how the swatch knit in the
round will look like. So on the back, it will just
have loose strands of yarn which are using a lot less
yarn than actual stitches, will have a stitch
pattern on one side. Custom just sensitivities or so, just to show you the concept. And I will neatly knitted
swatch in this document because it's much different on the right side and
on the wrong side. So after I sold my stitches, I have my working yarn
on the left side. However, I will slide
the statistic to the other needle of my circulares so that I can start working from
the yarn right side to mimic work in the round. So I will take a longer strand and simply start
knitting the status. When I finished this row, I will slide the stitches
again to the other nato. Second start working
from the right. At, again. I can take the yarn strand
going through the bulb, pull up the longer strands, start lifting from the right. You can swatch any stitch
pattern in this way. Just remember that you are always working on
the right side. The edge stitches
might be a bit wonky, but just pull the
strands that are loose. Okay. So let's slide them again. Again, working from the
right with a longer strand. Now that we have a
few rounds worked, we can easily see that is
the right side of Stuxnet. So here we have the
nets, the device. And on the wrong side we have the back of the stock
net and the low strands. When you finish working
your swatch in the round, you just bind it off and
block it as usual swatch. So blocking just means hand-washing As soon
as the final item, laying it flat to dry, it evens the statistic out. Also some yarns stretch
or fill out after wash. So measuring blocked swatch will help you avoid
unpleasant surprises. To block, you should
follow instructions of your wool wash. usually
it's soaking for ten, 15 min, then wrapping in towel to remove excess water
and then flat to dry. When the swatch is
dry, you can calculate how many stitches
and around to have intense centimeters or 4 " because we will need it for
our design calculations. Next we are going to do the
basic math for your design.
6. Design Calculations: In this lesson, we will do the quick math for
our co-design. Open up your design planner, measure your gauge
on the swatch. So how many citizens rounds
you have per 10 cm or 4 ". Note your gate from
the swatch in section a. Mike age is 18 citizens, 24 rounds in masstige. Also note your plant
called dimensions. In section B. Section C, we will calculate
the circumference, did count the custom status. To do that, take the
amount of cities you had in your swatch
better 10 cm or 4 ". Multiply it by your
dessert called circumference in
centimeter of inches, and then divide it
by 10 cm or 4 ". Whichever format you use. That will be exactly
112 status for me. Then we need to take
into account the stitch. Repeat that section D. Over how many stitches
do your work, your main stage repeat. Take if the calculated starting stitch count is a
multiply of this number, note around the customer to the nearest multiply of
your stitch, repeat. The same check for the ribbing. You can either match the
custom stitch number so it fits both your ribbing
and main stitch pattern. Or decide to have a
bit different numbers for the ribbing elements
stitch pattern. Then you can add
stitches or decrease a few stitches when you switch from risk to the main pattern. Make sure that the difference
between those isn't huge, not to distort too much
the shape of the coal. For Michael, I will be
using a two-by-two rib, which is a multiplier of four, and so is my calculated
stitch count 112th. However, I will be anything the main part of my
goal in masstige. Mastitis worked
over two stitches. However, when we are
working in the round, I need to have an odd
number of stitches so that the stitch look cohesive
on the ground during, Because when working
in the round we are effectively working in a spiral. So an even stitch can for
the most and also sits that will result in two of the same stitch types next
to each other on the Join, creating a very distinctive
line because there isn't any number that is odd and n multiply a four
at the same time, I will do the following. I will custom original
hundred and 12 stitches and work rubbing
over this number. Then I will add one state when I start to work the masstige. If you rounded up your
stitch count in Section E, check quickly if the change hasn't affected the
circumference too much. Multiply your revised
stitch count by ten, and then divide it by
your gauge institutes. If you're good with the result, as it's not too big or small. Perfect. If not, try another
multiple of this dish, repeat and repeat the check. For the length of the call. You can either
measure it as innate, which is honestly
my go-to method, or calculate the
round counts upfront. This is especially
helpful if you choose a more complex stitch pattern that is worked over many rounds. And you want to have a full stage repeats
worked on the coal. The logic of calculations is the same as for
circumference. Here we'll just be using the round gauge as the reference. So in Section F, we can
multiply our gauge in rounds by desire to length
in centimeters or inches, and then divide it by 10 cm or 4 " whichever format you
measure your gauge with. For my gauge of 24 rounds
and desert length of 35 cm, I will need to work
84 rounds in total. In Section G, you can
calculate how many rounds over having to work with the same logic as for
the total length. Just using desert rib length. I want to work 5 cm of ribs
on each end of the color, which the gauge of 24
rounds makes up 4.9 rounds. I will round it to five. In section eight, we
can quickly calculate how many rounds will be left for your main stitch pattern. My tutor was 84 minus ten, which is five France
or free edge. And that leaves 74 is an even number which fits
with my mouse did very well. Then in section I and j, you can verify your round count with your round repeats of our stitch pattern in the same way as for
the circumference. That's it. Now that you know how to do the quick math to plan
out your simple design. In the next lesson, we're going to start
knitting our coal.
7. Elastic Cast On: So now that we already know
how we want the code to look like and how many stitches and
transferring it to work. Let's get deleting to keep the coal comfortable to wear
and easy to put on an off. I like to use a
strategic custom. So this type of customer
is a long tail custom, which means that
we will be working with two ends of yarn. So in order to not run out of any strands before we
custom all the statistics, we need to estimate how long
our yarn and needs to be. The way I like to
do that is I take the yarn and wrap it around
my needle ten times. I take it off, mark
it with my fingers. So for Michael, I will
customer 112 stitches. I will measure 12
times this amount. Just to have a little backup. Now to start the custom. Grab the yarn where you
measured your yarn and limb and spread it between your index
finger and your thumb. And in the way that
the strand that is going around your index
finger is going to the bulb. And the strength of this going here around your
thumb is the yarn. And the first thing that we will do is
segment you though, late on top of the
strand and twist it so that we have a
twisted loop on the needle. Once more. Both the
needle and twist it. Put the handle and wrap the yarn around
with it so it's twisted. Okay. Now to cast on the stitches, we will take our needle inserted under the strand that is going
over the thumb facing us. And then through
this strand that is on the front of
the index finger. Take it through the loop that is created next to your
thumb and pull up. Once again. Take
the needle under the strand that is in thrown
in front of your thumb, then not letting it go. Take the needle under the
strand that is in front of your index finger and pull it through the loop around your thumb and put
down once more. The needle under this tramp
in front of the thumb. Next technique under the strand next to your index
finger and take it through the loop and pull up. I will do this a couple
of times slower. So if you draw the
strands at anytime, just insert your fingers into this V and angle your needle. Thickening. You go
under this term. Next door sound, the
next year index finger. And through the loop. And we will costume
all of the statistics. For this project. I will be calculating the first
loop as a stitch. I will count it
in. Again. I will be casting on 112th stitches.
8. Knitting in the Round: Okay, I costume all of my stitches and now it will
be time to join in the round. So the first point which is
very important is to make sure that the stitches on
your needles are not twisted. Because if you join in the
round a twisted stitch line, then only it will be twisted. And there's no way to
correct that after checking if your stitches
are not twisted with this customer is pretty
straight forward. So to check that, it's easiest to check
the border from the custom if it is always in
the same, on the same side. So here my custom border
is on the inside of the needles and I'm just going through and checking if
it has twisted anywhere. So it doesn't look like
it it looks like it's always on the inside
and it's not twisted. So if it was twisted, e.g. it could look like that, that you have some misalignment here and it's twisted
in that case. Just correct it
with your fingers. So it's all on the same side. Now that I've checked, I will prepare to
work in the round, so I will distribute the
stitches evenly on the needle. At the beginning, it may
seem a little bit tight. Like the stitches are
really stretching out. But the more work
rounds we work, easier and more
filling it will be. As you can see, my my yarn tail is
a little bit long, but we will manage it. So now we will be working only with the young and
that is going to the bulb. When working the round, it's necessary to mark the
beginning of the round so that if we change some
stitches like for this color, we'll first start with
the rubbing them with the masstige internal part. We need to know where to change. Our neuron begins. To do that. I will be
using a stitch marker. This one is like a safety
pin because it opens. It just has this bulb shape so that it fits on
the knitting needle. At the end of my custom, I will simply slide this
marker on my needle. I will keep it here. So now it reminds me
where my round is ending. And now to work in the round, we will simply start working
the next round here. So we will start
working the stitches. I will be working my ribbon
in our two-by-two table. So Tunis and tuples. So I will need the
first stitch to knit. I insert the needle from left
to right in the front loop, wrap the yarn around my
finger and pull up a loop. Now when we are doing the round, it's really good to
be careful not to leave too long yarn
strength here. Not to knit this stage to loosely because this CRM strand, it will not even out. And then it will be needed to some more work and
attention to weave it in. So it's best to work the first stitch quite tightly so to pull
the working yarn. Okay, so the first
stage is neat. I will need the second one. So again, from left to right, rub their arm, pull up the loop, and slide the work stitch. Okay, now we will
prove two stitches. So to prove, we
bring them to front. Insert the needle from right to left through
the front loop. Wrap the yarn around the
needle from front to back, and pull it through the stitch and slide the stitch
that we worked out. Again, young to front. Insert the needle
from right to left. Wrap the yarn around, club the loop, and slide the
word stitch of the needle. Again tonight. So if you feel that it's getting tight in this middle
worker, yeah. They could just slide the status delicately around the needle. So again, donates needles from left to right
in the front loop, wrap the yarn around the needle, collapse the loop again. And for parole, bring
the yarn to the front, insert me, go from
right to left, and wrap the yarn around. So the ribbed pattern of tonight's and to peruse
until end of the round. Okay, When we reached
the end of the round, we simply slide the marker from the left needle to
the right needle. And we'll work knit stitches
over knit stitches. And first status of
our prestigious to continue the two-by-two
repeat pattern. When we finish the wrong, you simply start
working the next one. If at, anytime you forget, if this is time to
Nathan are parallel, then in the re-pattern, we are working needs to learn
it and parse over chorus. Just look at the previous
round, what was worked. So here I can see
two pearl bumps. So it means this petal
stitches were worked. And here we have the need V looking like statistics to
produce and tonight's in here. So continue working
or ribbed pattern until your work as many rounds as you calculate
it or as you wish. I will work five rounds. So framing in total.
9. Joining a New Yarn Ball: Now I would like to show you how to join the new yarn ball. If you run out of yarn. I will show you now the
technique that I'm using quite often in products
worked in the round. But I will show you on a different yarn into
contrast colors so you can see more in detail
how they are connected. So put this trans
next to each other and take the yarn
from your project. Under our new strand. Then above it, and under and pull up a notch. So we just worked with the
pink one around the gray one. And now we will be working the same operation
of the gray yarn. So take the gray yarn and
put it under the pink one. Then above it. Make a note. Okay. Now what we need to do is pull
the yarn that is going to your project and
pull the yarn that is going to the new bulb, not the short ends, and pull it. So the nodes are
points together. You can also pull a
few times just to make sure that it's secure. And now you can cut
the excess ends. Okay? And that's it. Your yarn is connected.
10. Moss Stitch: Okay, I have my rep finished and now it's time to need
the main pattern. And I will be meeting
my coal in masstige. The case is my two-by-two rave requires an even stitch number, which I have hundreds 12th. But most stitch requires
an odd number when it's worked in the round
because we are actually working in a spiral. I will basically need to add
one stitch at the end of the first masstige round to make sure that
it aligns well. For most stitch, I will
start with need one per one, unit, one per one. And again, net one per one. Knit one per one until
end of the round. And then I will show you how to add the additional stitch. I finished my round
of the masstige. And now I will simply
make a yarn over, bring the yarn from
front to the back, and start working
the next drunk, making sure that the yarn
over is kept on the needle. For the second
round of masstige, we are going to repeat
exactly the same pattern. So knit one, product, one, net one for one. And we'll work this way until the last stitch on the round, which is a yarn over and I
will show you how to work it to create a stitch. So the last two
stitches of the rounds, so the next one is Peru. And now we have our yarn over. So if we work the
yarn overthrew front, we will have a whole left. And in order to
minimize the hole, we will need the ANOVA but
through the back loop. So it may be uncomfortable just to try
to catch the back loop. So how I like to do
it is inserted in the front and move the
needle around the other one. And then simply wrap them
around the needle and pull up. This way the yarn over cross here and the
whole is much smaller. And I slide my marker. Okay, so for the third
round of masstige, we will change our pattern. So, so far we did two rounds
of myth, one for one. And now we will do one net, one for one and
that one for one. And this one until
we have one stitch left until end of the round and we'll
parallel does Stitch. Okay, so I'm finishing
my third round. I'm pulling the last stage, sliding the stitch marker. And the fourth round, I will work exactly
like the third one. So fertile one. And this one, for one. And this one. So create your main
stage part of the code. If you are following
with the masstige, like me, you will be
repeating four rounds. The first two are the same, so it is one per one until
you have one stitch, until end of the round
in unit that stitch. And then two rounds
of fertile one, net one until one state is left until end of round
and then for one, so it's a foreground repeat. And you can find those in the resource I
prepared for download. So I finished my internal
part, the masstige. And as you remember, needed to have an odd state
to count for the masstige. And I added one state at the
beginning of this section. So not the, now that
I'm coming back to the reading section where I
need an even stitch count. Actually a multiple of four. I will need to decrease the font stitch in the first
sound of rubbing. And I'll show you
exactly how to do that. So I'm working, again, need to probe tube until
almost the end of the round, until we have five
stitches left. Then I'll show you how
to do that decrease. Okay, so I have five statistic
until end of the round. And now I will need
to do two units. So let's do two nets. And now I only need
to have two girls. So I will Perl one stitch. And then to decrease, I will simply put
those two together. So I need to insert my
needle as if the parent into the first stitch and into the second stitch
at the same time. And we proved that those
stitches together. That's it from two-step tests, we have now just one stitch. Now finish or rubbing or
other border that you chose. And in the next section, we'll do the finishing
like bind off and running.
11. Bind off and Finishing: Okay, it's time for
finishing our coal. First. We'll do the bind off. And to keep the call elastic. To be able to put this
through your head. It's best to use an
elastic stretchy bind off. And to get this stretch, we will bind off in patterns. So knits over nets and
purse over burrows. And we will also add additional yarn between
the status, which are, which is called a yarn over, which will give it
additional stretch. So let's see. My first
stitch, isn't it? So I will knit that stitch. Then I will do a yarn over. So I will bring the yarn from back to front over the needle, so creating an additional loop. Now, I will need
the next stitch. Being careful not to slide
this loop of the meantime. Okay, so now we have three loops to citizen one yarn
over. In this round. To bind off, we will need to insert our needle
under the yarn over, under the first stitch and
take them, pass them over. Our third stitch. We have ones did bound off. Now my next stitch is pearls, so I'm doing a yarn over, so bringing the yarn to
front and then back. And for perl, we need to bring the yarn
again to the front, but we'll be keeping
the loop here. So per insert the needle into both loops and passover. Again. Yarn over onto
front of the stage. In certainly the
into both loops. The first and the second
one. The third one. Let's go one more time. Yarn over my next
stitches in it. So I'm going to think inserting either under both loops
and passing it over. Again. If during the sliding of the stitch and
it's of the needle, don't pull too much. Just insert the needle into it and put it back
on your needle. So let's see. As you can see, this border is really stretchy. Depending how much
you pull the yarn. One binding of these loops
can be looser or titer, is just with practice. They will get more even. Stitch continued to bind off all the stitches. And then we'll we'll
get to weaving in. And so I round off all of my stitches. I just have this
one loop clefts, so our cat and just as much. So you can weave
it in comfortably. And that will take
it through the loop. Stitch and pull it away. Okay, now our code
is it's finished. And we will only
need to live in. And so I will start with the
binding of edge tail thread. The needle will work in
the coal in the round. However, at this joining place when we were starting
the bind off. And here finishing
you can see that it's coming apart a little bit. It doesn't seem
like, like around. To make it less visible. We'll take our
thread that needle. And we will go under
this, this loop. It's at the top of the binder. It's not the side1. Go through both of those
and then take it apart. Our thread is coming from
the center of the stage. So to mimic, as
stitch will insert the needle again in
the middle and pull. It looks much better. Looks like it's
actually a whole. And who will turn the
code to the wrong side? And we will weave in the ends. We start with the
upward columns. So from where we'll
insert the needle from outside to inside
through the right leg. I like to do it in one motion. I mean, not one
motion but 11 go. Okay. And here the
downward column from inside to outside. Okay. So it's done, remember
to handwash or coal delicately in wool wash. And now it's time for a wrap-up.
12. Wrap Up: You made it to the
end of the class. So it's wrap-up time. You learned a few
new techniques, aesthetic custom
and stretch binder and how to knit in the round. You also created your
first simple coal and learned a few
basic design skills, textures and borders, calculating stitch comes and
swatching in the other arm. Now that you have your first
circular product done, you're probably
wondering how you can apply your skills next. You can create next simple
cube based designs, such as different
calls, double layer, headband, infinity scarf,
or a super simple. Thank you so much for going on this knitting
journey with me. I hope you enjoyed
the class and I can't wait to see
your creations. Remember to post
your projects in the projects and resources
tab on Skillshare. If you share it on Instagram, please tag me so I can
see your beautiful. You can also follow
me on Skillshare and on Instagram
at Wildbelly dot creative to be in the loop when I release a new class,
happy knitting.
Izabela Grzybek, Knit & Crochet Designer
