Knitting for Total Beginners: Knit a Cozy Chunky Headband

1. Intro: Have you ever wanted to learn to knit? You don't know where to start and think that knitting is hard to learn if so this class is for you. Hi, I'm Isabel Zubak. I'm an artist, crafter and designer. In this short class for absolute beginners, I want to show you how to knit your first project quickly and easily. We have just three basic techniques. Our project in this class will simple head band. I believe it's a great first project. It's small and quick to Nate using thick bulk yarn. It's also a very practical project you can wear or gift right away. It's quite classic, so it should fit your outfit for many years To come in the class first we will briefly go over the necessary tools and supplies. Next, we will learn how to cast on and work the basic stitch knit stitch to create our head band. Last, we'll finish the project. Bind off so close all of the stitches and sin the head band to create a modern twist. Finishing, after completing this class, you will know three basic knitting techniques and you will be able to take the skills learned and create the next knitting projects. For example, a matching scarf. When you wash this class, you will receive a class guide with a list of tools and supplies necessary to create the project Tips on simple modifications to the head and scarce knitting guide and more. I will encourage you to use bulky weight yarn and eight millimeter or US size 11 knitting needles to follow this class. To knit the project fast. But you can use any yarn and matching knitting needles you have at home to see in the class. 2. Class Project and Resources: The project in the class is to knit a simple head band. The class includes a class guide which you can download in the projects and Resources section. In the guide, you'll find some information to support you in completing this class and beyond. You will find there are a few options for tools and supplies. Some tips on modifying the headband, including how to calculate custom stitches if you want to use different yarn than bulky weight. And a guide on knitting and matching scarf, including how to estimate how much yarn you will need. 3. Tools and Supplies: You will need just a few tools and supplies to create the project in this class. First of all, bulky weight yarn. You will not need probably more than 50 grams, a small skin. You can find a few options listed of widely available yarn in this weight. In the class guide to the bulk yarn, You will also need 8 millimeters, 11 knitting needles, either circular as they have here or straight needles. You can also use the straight ones. You will also need a tapestry needle. A blunt needle that is a bit thicker and has a bigger ear and scissors. This is all you will need to create the project in this class if you don't want to buy specific yarn. You can also follow this class with any yarn that you want. For every yarn on the label, you will find suggested needle size. For this one, it's US 64 millimeter. I recommend wool because it's a natural material that will keep you warm. If you are sensitive and often find wool itchy, go for marina wool, it's super soft. If you're a vegan, you may want to choose acrylic yarn to get the head band of the same dimensions as we are doing here in the class. The width of 10 centimeters, 4 ". You will need to look into the gauge that is proposed by the producer of the yarn. For this one, this is a light decay yarn. It is 22 stitches per 10 centimeters, or 4 ". You can find also a reminder, a quick guide on how to calculate, where to find the custom stitches. How to calculate the amount of stitches if you want to create a wider headband in the class guide as well. 4. Knitting the Headband: Let's start knitting the head band. To start our knitting project, first we'll need to create the first set of stitches on the needle. This process is called castinon. There are lots of different methods of castinon, but I will show you the easiest one, the one that I was learning as a first two. To start the cast on, first we need to make a slip. To do that, unwind your yarn and catch the yarn end. Then holding around 10 centimeters, maybe more, move that yarn end over the longer part of the yarn. Okay? Then lift the loop that is created and throw it catch on the other side the yarn tail and pull. Here we have this slip knot. Okay. Now place it on the needle and put it tighter to start the custom. Remember that the slip knot counts as the first stitch. Take the yarn strand that is long and is leading to the ball, not the yarn tail. We will not be using the yarn tail for now. And place it around your fingers. Move it on top of your thumb and index finger and catch it then using the needle, move it under the strand next to your thumb and pull up a loop is created. Don't pull the loop too tight because it will be hard to work into it later on, another one. Take your needle under the strand and pull up to create a loop once more. In this way, we will cast on 12 stitches in total. Now it's time to start work in the first row. To do that, we need to turn the needle around so that the yarn leading to the ball is on our right hand side. Take the second needle into your right hand now. Okay. And we'll start working the stitches. To do that, make sure that the yarn is in the back. Wind it around your finger to get some tension so that it's easier to work the stitches. And now we will work the need stitch. Taking your right hand needle, insert the needle into the first stitch on the needle from left to right. Then wrap the yarn strand around and pull the needle through the stitch and slide the stitch of the needle. You just need the first stitch for the second one, take the needle, insert it from left to right into the next stitch on the needle. Then wrap the iron around the needle and pull up a loop through the stitch, and slide off a stitch. Every stitch will work the same way. Again, make sure not to pull the stitches too tight on the needles because it will be harder to work into them in the next rows. And also if you need very tightly, then your headband will be more narrow. It may not cover all hole of your ears. Sega Insert needle from left to right, rub the yarn, and clap a loop slide of the stitch. Okay. I finished the first row. To continue, I need to once again turn around my work so that the yarn strand leading to the ball is on the right side. Okay, here it is. We finished the first row and now we will start working the head band. As of now, every row will be worked the same. I want my head band to have nice, clean chain like edges. To accomplish that, I will be slipping the first stitch in each row with yarn in front. To do that, make sure that the yarn is in front of your work. So I will insert the needle into the first stitch from right to left, and just move it to the right needle without any other action. Then I will move this working yarn to the back. I will knit the rest of the stitches again. Inserting the needle from left to right, wrapping the yarn around, pulling up a loop, sliding of the stitch. As you work, make sure to insert the needle only into the stitches on the needle, into the bars between them, so as not to create an additional stitch. Always into the stitches on the needle from left to right, wrapping the yarn around, pulling up loops until end of our stitches. Okay. Again, finish the row. I will turn my work around so that again the yarn is on my right hand side. Again, I will slip the first stitch so I make sure that the yarn is in front. Insert my needle from right to left and just move the stitch and move the working to the pack and the rest of the stitches. If you don't want to add this technique now, it's absolutely fine to work the headband exactly as we did the first row to knit all of the stitches. The edges will be less tidy, there will be some notes, but it's still absolutely manageable. Continue working, slipping the first stitch of the row with yarn in front, and then knitting the rest of the stitches. The turning your work around so that the yarn strand is on your right hand side until your head band is as long as you need. We will create a strip. It will be a long strip. As you work, you can try it on, wrap it around your head. The strip should be a little shorter than your head circumference it just a little bit tighter so that it stays on your head. The texture of the stitch is a little elastic. When you try it, just pull a bit on the ends so that you get some attention. 5. Finishing: It's time to finish the head band. My strip is as long as you want it to be. Remember when you measure how long you want this headband strip to be? Remember that this stitch is quite elastic. When you try it on around your head. Pull it only very. But the headband should be sitting on your head snugly but not be loose or too tight. My head band is as long as I want it to be. Now we need to finish off the project, close the stitches so that the work doesn't unravel. This process is called binding off. We will use the simplest bind off, which is called a standard bind off. I will make sure that my yarn is in the back. To start the bind off, I will need the first stitch, then I will need the second stitch. Okay. Then I will insert my needle into the first stitch on my right hand needle and pull it over the second one and slip it off the needle. Now we just bound off one stitch to continue. I will knit the next stitch again. Insert my left hand needle into the first stitch on the right hand needle and pull it over the second one again, knit the stitch and slip it over. I will continue this way until I bind of all but one stitches. Okay? So I have just one stitch left on the needle, and I will put my work aside gently so the stitch doesn't slip out. And I will cut the yarn, leaving a maybe 30 centimeters. So 15 ". Approximately. 12. 15. Okay. And now I will just pull the yarn tail. Okay. Headmand is bound off. I can put aside my needles now I will need to with the end that we have left from the cast on edge. Then we will seem the head band so that we create the twist to weave in the ends. We always ends on the wrong side. However, this head band is reversible. It looks the same on the right and the wrong side. It doesn't really matter on which side to weave it in thread. Your tapestry needle with this yarn tail. Okay, now we will start weaving in. Insert your needle into one of the stitches. Then you will notice that some of the bumps are facing upwards. It's also often called a frown because it looks like a sad face, or downwards, like a smile. We will be weaving it around the frown first, inserting the needle in the bar next to it, around the frown, down into the stitch that we came from. Okay, now around the smile around this frown, honestly you don't have to worry much about weaving ends in this head band. Just do it as close to the edge as possible. And you can also weave them in more freestyle if this is not something you want to learn now. Okay. When you move in the end, we can cut off the remaining part. Then we will see the head band. So to do that you need to place the head bond with the right side, up the side that doesn't have the end swoven. Okay. And then folded thread the needle with this longer yarn tail. And now grab the end of the headband and fold each of them in health. Then place one end into the other. You create like a sandwich. And then take the needle. Take it through all of the layers of the headmand. Pull through the same way back. Insert the needle as close to the edge as possible, but be sure to move the needle through each of the layers of the headband so that the seam is full and nothing is showing through. And back all the way until the other end again. Each time make sure that you move the needle through each of the layers. Okay. And for security, we can also solve it back in, in the same way. Now let's put it twice, and when we finish swimming, we can cut the yarn tail short. Okay, So this is the wrong side of the head band. And now we have to turn it around to see the right side, and this is the ready head band. 6. Wrap Up: Congrats on finishing your first knitting project. You learn the three most basic knitting techniques, casting on the knit stitch and binding of. I hope you enjoy the class and are eager to keep knitting. What you can do next, you can practice the same skills you learned in the class to knit a bigger project scarf. Use the guide from class guidebook to help you plan the project. Or you can dive into the next classes and learn new techniques and new projects. Don't forget to leave a review for the class. I'd love to hear your feedback. If you want to stay in touch, sign up to my newsletter at Welbury.com Happen it in.