Transcripts
1. Jewelry Making for Beginners: Making Color Pencil Jewelry at Home: [MUSIC] Hi, my name is Hui. I'm a full-time professional
jeweler in the UK. I gained my gemstone knowledge and jewelry making skills by having formal training in
the UK, US, and Belgium. After that, I have been
refining my knowledge and skills through everyday
practice for over 18 years. By taking my class
on Skillshare, you will learn professional
jewelry making skills at your leisure without having to travel
around the world in person like what I
did in the old days. I have been making and selling this color pencil jewelry
for more than 10 years. They have been delivered to my customers over 30
different countries. I have also been commissioned
to make a set of colored pencil jewelry for the
counters of Faber-Castell. This is the first time I'm
sharing how I make them. Join me in this class
and I will walk you through all the steps
with my personal tips. In this class, you
will learn how to make fun jewelry from
beginning to finish. When you finish this class, you'll be confident to make your own color pencils,
stuffed earrings, bangle earrings and
necklaces from scratch, like a pro, as they are very
easy and quick to make. You can make many
of them in one go, to have a collection
of your own. You can also give them as
a surprise handmade gift to your friends and family
members on any occasion. The skill you'll practice in this class can also
be applied to work on any precious metal and base metal jewelry in
future projects. For instance, you will learn how to set up and use a jeweler saw, how to assemble finished
jewelry without hot soldering and
some basic wire work. This class is for
anyone who want to add fun and colors to
their everyday life. No previous jewelry making
experience is required. If this is your first
time making jewelry, you will learn the most
basic jewelry making skills and have a taste of making
finished jewelry from scratch. Don't miss out. I'll
see you in class.
2. Class Project: [MUSIC] Thank you so much
for joining this class. Let me show you what we
are going to make today. First, we're going to make
color pencils stop earring's. Next, we'll be making color pencil dangle earrings
in two different ways. Lastly, I will show you how to give your color pencil
a distress look, and use them to make your
own colorful necklace. The reason I choose this
project to begin with is, color pencil jewelry
is super easy to make, and the outcome is
nothing but fun. With so many colored pencil
choices in the market, they are endless,
colorful possibilities. As no previous jewelry making
experience is required. This is a great
step to start for any beginners who are
interested in jewelry making, or anyone who wants to add fun, and colors to their
everyday life. This jewelry is really
simple to make. Getting all the tools, and materials ready will easily set yourself up for a
successful project. After that, the key
is to go through all the lessons which have
been carefully structured, which is a bit more in
depth than the one before. In the fourth lesson, I will share with you
my various solutions for different problems I have encountered throughout the years making this color
pencil jewelry myself. In this way, you'll be able to achieve the best
results in no time. The first step to initiate
this project before diving into the main lessons is to get all the materials
and tools ready. No worries if you
have a hard time finding any of these
from your local shops. Everything you need is
listed in PDF format in the project and resources section with links
to purchase online. In this way, you don't even
need to leave your home, everything you need to finish this project will be
delivered to your doorstep. As you go along, don't forget to share your progress pictures, and all the finished
color pencil jewelry you have created in
the project gallery. It will be even
better if you could share the pictures of
how they look on you, or your happy friends, and loved ones wearing the color pencil jewelry
you create for them. I look forward to see your colorful creations
in the project section. Now, let's get started
in the next lesson.
3. Making Color Pencil Stud Earrings: [MUSIC] Am so excited to
see you in the class. In this lesson, we're going to start from the easiest project, making color pencils
stacked earrings. All you learn in this class will set the foundation
for the next two. Let me quickly run through
what you will need for this lesson: color pencils, juda saw with a
number to saw blade, sandpaper off 320 grit, a ruler, a cocktail stick, it's
called toothpick in America or any stick
you can find around, a scriber, or anything
with a pointy tip, for example, a pin or a
screw will work as well, araldite two-part
epoxy adhesive, air pin with backed in surgical
steel to avoid allergy, finally some old
newspaper to cover the surface for
easy tidying later. You can download this full
list from the project and resources section with the
link to purchase online. Super convenient. Once you have gathered
all the materials, let's set up your saw. A jeweler saw can almost cut everything from platinum
to stainless steel. In this project,
we're going to use it for a very soft material. To set a saw blade right, let's have a look at its
structure in a close-up view. It has teeth on one side and a smooth
straight light on the other. You will want to psi with the cutting teeth facing outward and downwards by how it look on the left-hand side
of this picture? The one on the right-hand
side has the teeth facing upwards, it won't cut. However, the problem is each tooth is less
than one mm white, and we don't have
super eyesight to see if they're facing
downwards or not. A little trick here to make sure the teeth
facing the way we want is that we can have the blade lightly
touch our finger. If it can easily
slide down the blade, the teeth are facing upwards. If we can feel the pointy
teeth on the edge, we know it's facing downwards. Now we have the saw blade
facing the right direction. Put one end of the blade into the far clamp
and tighten it. Then place the handle against your shoulder and put some pressure on the
handle by leaning onto it. Now we can tighten
the near clamp. That way, when you release, the saw blade will be tensioned. To test if it is tight, you can lightly pluck the blade. Just like how we do that
on a guitar string. When you hear a noise
like this from the blade [BACKGROUND] you
know it is tight enough and it will
cut efficiently. When you use the saw to cut, one way is to move it forward and backwards
against our body. However, the hand holding
it has to apply pressure all the way pushing the saw
downwards to get it work. This can be very
tiring if you're cutting things for more
than three minutes. The other option is to move the soar upwards and downwards. In this way, the
weight of the saw will help us when pulling
it downwards. Also do remember how the teeth look like
on our saw blade. It will only cut
the material when the saw is moving
in one direction. In this case, it will cut
when the saw moves downwards. With the help of gravity pulling the saw
towards the floor. This will actually
save you lots of strength during the
cutting process. Next, we're going to prepare the surface and get
the pencil ready. Here I use an old
newspaper to collect the sawdust produced during
the cutting process. In this lesson, am doing
it on a jolous bench. But before I have
this bench setup, I did it on my second hand dining table for the
first three years. Basically, you can cut your
color pencil on a table, a chair or any flat surface
you can find around you. If your pencil has
some letters on, such as the brand name, you might want to cut off the words and only
use the color parts. The pencil I choose has two
colors joined together. I will cut it in half to make
two pair starts earrings. One pair in red and
one pair in yellow. [MUSIC] Now my pencils are ready. I want each of my pieces to
be about six to seven mm. I use the ruler and my scriber to make
a mark on seven mm. I make two marks for a
pair of my pencil pieces. Here to guide my soberly, I put my thumb next to the place where I need
to cut the pencil. [MUSIC] Instead of cutting the pencil all the way through, I rotate the pencil during
the cutting process. I will explain why I do this in the problem shooting section. The first piece of
the pencil is cut. I need to do the same
on my second one. [MUSIC] Again, I keep rotating the
pencil when cutting. When I make the yellow pair, I have zoomed out the camera
a bit to show you how I hold the pencil tight
during the cutting process. This part of the pencil
has some words on, so I cut off that section and
only keep the color part. Here, I use my thumb
and index finger to push the color pencil to
the surface I rest on. In this way, my pencil will not move anywhere
when I cut it. Now, I have two pairs of
color pencils prepared. Each of them is a
similar height. They are ready to be cleaned. When grinding the pencil
on the sandpaper, I maintain a circular motion and try to apply the
pressure evenly. I do this to both
sections of the pencil. What I want to achieve
is a sharp edge and a smooth surface
on both sections. One pencil piece
is clean and tidy. I go through the same process
for the next three pieces. The two pieces of yellow pencils are more or less at
the same height, but for the right pair one
is longer than the other. It needs to go back to the sandpaper to have it
match the other red one. This actually
happen quite often. Now I have two pieces of red
pencils at the same height. In the next step, am going
to glue the backs on. The glue I use here is
the one that jewelers use to glue natural pose
onto precious metal. This glue is make of two parts. Once they are mixed thoroughly, the mixture works as superglue. I use a stick to mix the glue, give you the good stuff until the color turns milky white. It's ready to use. If you're not sure
whether you or your recipients are
allergic to any material, surgical steel is
the safest option. However, it's not easy to find surgical steel if you live
in a remote area like I do. I have it listed
in the project and resources section
for you to download. Click the link on the PDF file and you can get them all
delivered to your doorstep. When gluing them together, you can put the glue on the pencil and put the
earring backed on top. I find it tidier by
putting the glue on the flat disc as the glue
will take some time to dry. If the air post is not in
the center of the pencil, you can easily adjust the
position at this stage. Now we leave them to dry
for about eight hours. Once the glue is dry, you can put the
earring backed on. Here, you have your pencils
staked earrings ready. Congratulations,
[MUSIC] you have just learnt how to
setup a jeweler's saw, how to use the saw
efficiently like a pro, also now you know
which secret glue we jewelers use to stick paws onto silver,
gold and platinum. Don't tell anyone. Its classified. In the next lesson, am going to teach you some
basic wire work by showing you how to make color
pencil dangle go earrings in two different ways. [MUSIC]
4. Making Color Pencil Dangle Earrings: [MUSIC] Welcome back.
In this lesson, we're going to make color
pencil dangle earrings. As this is a little bit more advanced than the
previous lesson, we will need everything in the last project plus a pair of 4 mm pendant cups with pegs and jump rings
in sterling silver, a pair of 3.8 mm eye
screw for pendant, sometimes it's called
screw eye bails, a pair of ear wire
in surgical steel, 0.8 mm or 20 gauge
sterling silver wire. We will need 20 cm
length of this. Make sure this is nickel-free
to avoid allergy. Plastic ear backs, a round forming mandrel, a 0.7 mm drill bit, a pair of snip nose pliers
or flat nose pliers will work as well as long as
the inner surface is flat. A pair of round nose pliers, a pair of shears
for wire cutting, and 1.8 mm concave bar. All these tools are listed in the project
and resources section. Let's get started. As I promised you that
I'm going to show you how to make dangle earrings
in two different ways. We need two pairs
of color pencils. The pencil I've chosen are in pink and green with
a round profile. Just as in the last lesson, here I use a scriber to mark for 7 mm to
guide my cutting, and saw pencils just as before. [MUSIC] Great. My four pieces of color
pencils are ready for sanding. I found that if I use
coarser sandpaper, the surface on the pencil
will look very rough. If I use a finer one, it take ages to get
a smooth surface. It's about the balance of the finished surface
we want to achieve, and the time we want to spend
on the sanding process. Ideally, the quicker the better. Three hundred and
twenty grits is just the right one in this
case for color pencils. Here, I marked the center of the green pair of color
pencils with my scriber. Next, I use my 0.7 mm drill bit to hand drill
a hole in the center. As the pigment is really soft, you can drill the hole
easily freehand like so. To get this started, I carefully drew a whole
following the mark. Then I use my ring
finger to push the end of the drill and rotate the drill
clockwise with my thumb, index, and middle finger. This will drive
the drill forward into the pencil with
minimum effort. At this stage, make sure not
to drill through the pencil. You can see the other end
is still nice and smooth. Now I screw the eye bail into the pencil until it's tight. As the hole in the
pencil is slightly smaller than the
screw on this bail, the pencil will hold
the bail tight, keep rotating, and push at the same time until the screw is completely hidden inside of the pencil and only
the bail is out. This is how we want it to be. We repeat this on the next
pencil to make it to a pair. Now I have a matching pair
in lovely apple green. This color always
reminds me of spring, a very hopeful color. Next, I'm going to put the pencil onto the
surgical steel ear wire. If we push the decorative
ball upwards a bit, you will see the loop
is actually open. To open it, I push
the end to one side. [MUSIC] Apparently it is not big enough to take
the bail on the pencil. Let's open it a bit more. [MUSIC] Now the bail with the
pencil can easily slide in. To close the loop, I use my snip nose
pliers to push it back. With the help of gravity, the tiny opening gap will be
covered by the bead above. Ta-da, one dangle
earrings is ready. I just need to repeat
this on the other pencil. To give you a better look, I have zoom in a
bit to show you. I'm pushing the opening to
the left-hand side here, but you can push it to
the right-hand side, it's totally up to you which
way is more convenient. [MUSIC] Here, the dangle earrings in
surgical steel are ready. These pre-made ear
wires are very handy. They give a very traditional
and elegant look to these dangle earrings. However, if you want to have
a more contemporary look, you might want to make
your own ear wire. In the next step, I'm going to show you another way to make the dangle earring using
nickel-free sterling silver. The reason for it being
nickel-free is to avoid allergy. When we make jewelry, whenever the material
touches the wearer's skin, we need to think
about allergies. I will talk about
this a bit more in the troubleshooting section. Here, I use the 4 mm pendant
cup in sterling silver. As you can see, the
cup has a dome shape. To modify it, I use the edge of
my snip nose pliers to flatten it like so. You can use the
flat nose pliers. As far as the inside is flat, it will do the job. I keep rotating it to
make the cup a flat disc. However, I noticed that the
jump ring has been bent in the previous stage
so I adjusted with my snip nose pliers by
carefully bending it back. This is more or less like it. From this angle,
the little pack is still not 100 percent
aligned with the jump ring. I bend it with my pliers. This is how we want it to be. Now, I repeat the process
to the second pendant cup, with a closer up
look in case you are watching this on your
phone, like I always do. Perfect. This is just right. Flat and centered, the little bails are ready. We move on to prepare
the color pencil. I mark the center of the color pencils with
my pointy scriber, and then hand drill the
holes in the pencil. Let's speed this up to pretend that I can
do this super fast. In this step, the key is to make sure the hole is deep
enough to take the peg. But we don't want to drill to go through the other
end of the pencil. If you're worry, the
drill might go too deep and accidentally go
through the other end. You can cut the peg a little bit shorter and leave
about 3 mm there. The idea of the peg is to maximize the surface area
for the glue to quip. In the next step,
I put the glue on. As we want as little glue to show on the surface as possible, I put the glue on the peg only. Once this is pushed
into the hole, the glue will be squeezed
up by the hole to the flat disc and spread out around between the pencil
and the flat disc. In this way the glue
won't show on the pencil. On the other hand, if I put
the glue on the flat disc, the glue will be squeezed
out between the disc and the pencil to show a
circle of unsightly glue. Here's a picture of how
the pencil would look like if we put the
glue on the disc. We want it to look
like the one on the left-hand side.
Nice and clean. When we are waiting
for the glue to dry, let's make the ear wire
in sterling silver. Move the ruler up and down
off the round forming mandrel to find roughly
the 12 mm width, and then we can draw a
line to mark like this. Next, I wrap around this mark twice to form two full circles. I will overlap this
sterling silver wire a bit to make sure I can
cut out two full circles. Here, I cut them
out with my shears. [MUSIC] I use the
round nose pliers to form a hook at the end
of the opening like so. These little circles are
for hanging the pencils. The opening ends on these circles will
go to our ear loops. When the wire was
cut by the shears, the end becomes
sharp and uneven. We need to round this up to give a smooth touch to our skin. Here, I use this 1.8 mm concave bar to round
the end of the wire. I normally use an electric
motor to drive the bar. But here, I'm doing it with just my free hand to show that you don't need any complex tool to achieve the same result. Next, we're going to put the pencil on these
hooks we just made. Simply hold the end of the opening and push
it to one side, slide the hook in, and push the end back to
close the circle. Job done. Here is the second pair of dangle earrings in
a different style. I normally slide a
plastic ear back on each to keep them
safe on the ear loop. After all this hard work, we don't want to lose them. [MUSIC] Excellent. You have just learned
some basic wire work, top gluing tips and how to drive a drill bit or bar simply
with just your free hand. In the next lesson, I'm going to show you how
to give a distress look to our color pencils
to get that antique finish, and then use them to make
our color pencil necklace. [MUSIC]
5. Making Color Pencil Necklace: Well done for completing
the last two lessons. In this one, let's
make a necklace. Up to this point you have made
matching pairs of pencils. We're going to move
on to the next level, working with more
than 10 pencil pieces and each of them in
a different length. Before we begin, I'm
going to quickly run through the extra tools
you need in this lesson. One 0.8 mm or 20 gauge silver plated wire
with a long profile. This is sold in a row. A rotary drill, such as a
Dremel drill, pillow drill, micro mortar, or handpiece
with a pendant motor, but if you don't have
one, just keep watching. I have a solution for
your later in this class. Two of these 2.5 mm crimp beads, one necklace clasp, and a pair of goggles to
protect your eyes if you're going to use an electric
driven rotary drill. First of all, we're going to cut out a
few random color pencils. Choose any color and
length that you like. As we're going to approach it in a bit more casual
style at this level, we don't need to
measure any of them. We want to enjoy a relaxing, creative atmosphere by following our mood to cut the
pencils to any length. We want to embrace the
beauty of renderness. No need to carefully
arrange anything. Just let our feelings guide us. The idea at this stage is to cut as many as you want in any
color you would like to have. The more you cut out, the more you will have to
choose from in the next step. Now, as we have been
cutting for a while, you should have a collection of different color pencils
in various lengths. This is exactly what we want. Next, we're going to drill holes through our color pencils. We want each hole to be half cm from one
end of the pencil. We don't want to measure it, roughly will be fine. In this way, our necklace
will have a casual look. Here I use a drill driven
by a pendant motor. The price of such
a pendant motor plus the handpiece ranges from $300-$500 roughly
£250 or €250 and more. It depends on which
brand you choose. If you enjoy working
with professional tools, this pendant motor and
handpieces are super handy combined with
the right drill bit. They can be used to
drill through platinum, gold, stainless steel,
etc, within minutes. The way to hold such a
handpiece is to hold it just as you would
hold onto a pencil. When drilling on the pencil, there are two things
to watch out for. One, safely first. Make sure you wear a pair of goggles to protect your
eyes and make sure your fingers is not
on the other side of the pencil
opposite the drill. Second, to get a tidy hole, make sure not to drill all the way through the
pencil from one side always go about half and turn to the opposite side of the pencil
to get the whole through. If you go all the way through, it's possible the paint
on the pencil will be cracked by the drill pushing
outwards from inside. Here's a picture of the hole
drilled in different ways. Sometimes the crack will be
bigger than at other times. The results depends on the
quality of the wood that your pencil is to make off and how hard you're
pushing the drill bit. As we know what we're doing, the holes we drill will
always be nice and neat. Here's the way to make
sure both holes will meet. Make a mark where your
first hole will be drilled, then use your ruler, just rotate the pencil along at the same level to
the opposite side and make another mark. This way your holes will
meet in the middle. After a while,
you'll be able to do this just by eye. It's easy. The wire we use to make the necklace measures 0.8
mm diameter or 20 gauge. The drill bit we choose here
is 1.2 mm diameter to make sure the pencils can slide freely along
the necklace wire. Obviously, if you have an electric rotary motor or
would like to invest in one, that's great, but you don't need these fancy and pricey
tools for this project. Let me show you my way to bypass this tool for working
with pencils. Remember how we handdrilled the pigment on the pencils
in the previous lesson, more or less, we're going
to do it in the same way. But the wood is harder
than the pigment, simply use our fingers to push the drill bits
is not enough. Instead, we put the drill bit on the table like this and
put the pencil on top. Next, I use my left hand to push the pencil onto the tip of the drill bit at the same time, I rotate the drill bit
with my right hand. In this way, we're
using the table to do the job as we use our
ring finger to do. When drilling freehand, you don't need to be
strong to do this. I'm a tiny teeny person. If I can do this,
no problem for you. Again, the trick is to not push the drill all
the way through, go roughly halfway and then drill from the opposite side
to get the hole through. In this way, you are
in full control. As we have finished drilling all the pencils we
have chosen, next, we're going to smooth
the rough sections and sharp edges
with our sandpaper. Instead of aiming for a
complete flat section, I want the pencil to
have a worn look. I lightly grind the section on the sandpaper to take the
sharp edge off this pencil. I till the edge
too have it touch the sandpaper and rotate
it at the same time. Here, this side of the
pencil has a worn look, uneven, but smooth to touch. We need to do this
to the other side of this pencil and to the
rest of our collection. If you want a bit of a
distress antique look, use the sandpaper to wear away some of the paint randomly. Now, our pencils
are well-prepared. Let's lay them out in the
way we want them to be and then we move on to get
our necklace wire ready. First, we need to decide how long we want our necklace to be. This is a picture of a general guide for choosing
your necklace length. Obviously, just like clothes, a size medium will be
big for some people, but just right for others. You will have to adjust accordingly whichever
length you choose. We need to add about two cm or an inch to each end for us to make the loop at the end of our necklace and
to put a clasp on. For instance, if you want to
make an 18 inch necklace, you will need a 20
inch long wire. Now we need to make a loop
at both ends of our wire. First, I slide a quick
bead on to the wire, then mark two cm or one
inch in from the end. Using our round nose pliers, we place the wire about a
quarter of the way down the pliers and bend the
wire to the left and right, just so forming a circle
about three mm in diameter. Taking the end of the pliers, I gently hold on the joint
and bend the wires back like this so that the wires are roughly at 90 degrees
from each other. Now, holding the circle
with the flat nose pliers, I pinch the ends
together, mixed. You just need to slide the beads over both
ends of the wire. You will need to pinch it
to an oval shape to get it to go over the other wire
and tied up to the circle. Now, lock it into place by flattening it
with the pliers. Snip off the extra length with your shears so that it
won't scratch your skin. Now, slide all your pencils onto the wire in the order
we lay out earlier. Repeat this on the
other end of the wire, but before you push the
bead over both ends, slide your clasp into the hoop before closing
and locking the bead. Here's your necklace done. [MUSIC] What an achievement. By creating antique
looking pencils and using them to make
your very own necklace, you have just learned
more basic wire work, how to drill holes
on wood efficiently with a rotary drill or
even with just freehand. Give yourself a pat. Coming up, I'm going
to share with you some troubleshooting
tips from my bench. In this way, even this is your first time working
with color pencils, it will save you lots of hustle by knowing the
firsthand solution from my experience of making color pencil jewelry
for over 10 years. [MUSIC]
6. Final Thoughts: [MUSIC] Well done. You have make it through
all the lessons. Thank you so much
for taking my class. I hope you have enjoyed it. You have learned some basic
jewelry making skills through the arts of color
pencil jewelry making. You now know how to set
up and use a jeweler saw, how to apply jewelers glue,
some drilling techniques, how to assemble finished
jewelry without hot soldering, some basic wire work, and you also know
that you need to take allergic reaction into
account when making jewelry. More importantly, if
there is one thing I hope you can take away
from this class is that, don't let a lack of professional
equipment stop you. There is always a workaround. I hope this class
inspires you to create your own color
pencils jewelry, or even starts you on your
jewelry making journey. There are so many color
pencil choices out there. Enjoy the making process and
explore the possibilities. If you have made
some pencil jewelry, I would love to see
your creations. You can post your work
to the project gallery on the class page
here on Skillshare. If you found this class useful, please leave a review. For any questions, do post on the
Discussion section. Make sure to follow
me on Skillshare to stay informed of my
upcoming classes. If you're interested
in seeing me making jewelry or footage of
behind the scenes, you can find me on
my YouTube channel by going to my
Skillshare profile. Or if you would like to check out the jewelry
I have created, please visit my Etsy site
at huiyitan.etsy.com. It has been my great pleasure to meet you on this
wonderful platform. Until next time. [MUSIC]