Silversmithing for Beginners: Making a Silver Coffee Scoop from Scrap

1. Making a Coffee Scoop in Solid Silver: Would you like to make your own silver coffee scoop? In this class, you will learn how to make a simple coffee scoop using scrap sterling silver. The skills I'm going to show you include melting scrap silver into ingots, rolling ingots into sheets and wire, forming and soldering all the pieces together, and finally finishing it into a shiny coffee scoop. This class is for anyone who wants to learn or try out silver smithing. No previous experience is required. Although some DIY experience of using any kind of drills or sawing experience will be useful. If not, no worries. My other course here on Skillshare, called Jewelry Making for Beginners. Making color pencil jewelry at home covers that. All the skills you learn from this class are basic ones for silver smithing. Hence, you can apply them to other silver smithing projects as well. I will be using solid sterling silver in this class, but the methods I'm showing also applies to karat gold. Hi. My name is Huiyi. I have been working with precious metals since 2003. My handmade jewelry and small objects in silver, gold, and platinum, have been sold to over 50 countries around the world in the last two decades. The benefit of learning from a practicing bench jeweler is that I have lots of first-hand tips to share. Let's get started and I will see you in the class [MUSIC]. 2. The Project: [MUSIC] The class project is to make a simple coffee scoop from scrap sterling silver. By finishing this project, you will have a silver scoop of your own to enjoy or to give to your loved ones. Each of the upcoming classes covers a simple step of making your scoop. They are all a few minutes long only. By following these bite-sized steps, you will have a clear idea of making your own coffee scoop in solid sterling silver. The tools I use in this class are listed in the PDF file. You can find it in the resource section. It will be very interesting to see your process pictures, along the way as well as the picture of your finished silver coffee scoop. Please post them in the class project gallery. In the next class, let's make our ingot from scrap. [MUSIC] 3. Turning Scrap Silver into An Ingot: [MUSIC] Welcome to the class. In this class, we are going to make some ingots. Starting here is about 20 grams of scrap sterling silver. All the pieces in my crucible are off-cuts from other sterling silver projects. To help the silver melt, I add a spoonful of borax powder on top before turning my torch on. This process requires a reasonably heavy duty torch as the melting point of the sterling silver is 1,640 degrees Fahrenheit, or 890 degrees centigrade. The torch I'm using here is powered by a propane gas cylinder. All the tools I use are listed in the resource section where you can download the PDF file. This is about 20 grams of silver. It usually takes about 10-15 min to become fluid. We will need three ingots in total. One to make the base of the scoop, which is about two grams, one to make the wall of the scoop, which is about 16 grams, and one to make the handle, which is about two grams again. You can see the fire inside of the crucible is orange. That's the hottest part of the flame in this case. This will ensure that we melt the silver in the shortest possible time. Slowly, we will see the silver turn to liquid. Here, you can see that I lightly shake the crucible when the silver is melting. This action is similar to stirring our sauce pan during the cooking process. This will help the silver mix well. It's very important to keep the torch on the molten silver while pouring. This is to make sure the temperature of the liquid silver won't drop below the melting point before dropping into the cast iron mold. This piece of sterling silver is what we have at this stage. To have this piece of silver as soft as possible, it's very important that we leave it to cool in room temperature for about 15 minutes. If we drop it in cold water, it will harden the silver and also make it brittle. We come back in 15 minutes and let nature take care of it. Now, this ingot is down to room temperature. We are going to dissolve the fire stain on the surface of our ingot by placing it in a warm bath of safety pickle. The key of this step is to make sure the liquid is not boiling. The red light here shown through my glass dish is the light of my electric hob. I find it quite cool to look at when the container is see-through glass. Here, I use a heat resistant casserole dish to hold the safety pickle and put it directly on top of my electric hob to heat it for exactly two minutes on full power. This will be enough to warm up the liquid, but it will remain below its boiling point. Here, we leave it in the warm pickle for 30 minutes to have the fire stain completely dissolved. This is what our silver ingots look like now. We need to rinse it in tap water thoroughly to get rid of any trace of the acid. Otherwise, the acid on the surface of the ingot will destroy our tools. Here I have another ingot which was made in the exact same way. So I skipped a process. This bigger one weighs 40 grams. It's for making the wall of the scoop. The small one we just made is for making the base of the scoop. In this lesson, you have learned how to melt scrap sterling silver into an ingot and here are the three key points through this process. First, keep the torch on the molten silver while pouring it into the mold. Second, let the hot ingot cool at room temperature. Third, keep the safety pickle below boiling point. Join me in the next class and we will transform these rough ingots into two smooth silver sheets for our coffee scoop. [MUSIC] 4. Turning the Ingot into a Round Silver Plate: In this class, we will transform the small sterling silver ingots we just made into a sheet for the bottom of the coffee scoop. By the end of this class, you will have a piece of silver in a circle shape with the thickness of one millimeter. Here, I'm using a small Durston Agile C110 rolling mill for this project. You can use any rolling mill you can get access to. As far as there is a flat surface on both upper and lower rollers, it will work just fine for this step. As my rolling mill is hand powered by a handle, this process requires a lot of patience. Just keep feeding the ingot through the roller over and over, reducing the space between the rollers a fraction each time. The key for this step is that for every single one millimeter, we reduce the thickness of the ingot. We will need to soften the silver by evenly heating it with a torch until our silver glows a dull orange color. [MUSIC] After that, we'll leave it in the air to cool down to room temperature. This process is called annealing. This will not just make the rolling process easier, it will also stop our silver from splitting [NOISE]. As you know, this is the small piece of silver for making the base of our coffee scoop. The length is more than enough to cover the diameter of the bottom of the scoop. However, the width is still too narrow, so we need to make it wider instead of unnecessarily longer. Here, I'm going to cut these pieces of silver roughly in half. There are two benefits for doing this. First, if we keep this silver in full length when making it wider, the flat area on my rolling mill is not wide enough to cover the entire width of this sheet of silver. Second, a smaller piece of silver is always more workable with a hand powered rolling mill. Keep repeating the process of rolling, and annealing rolling, and annealing until we have reached our goal of one millimeter thickness. This is what it looks like at this stage, with the thickness of one millimeter. This piece will be perfect for the bowl of the scoop. Next, we cut the circle out of the template sheet and put some double-sided tape on the back. The template is in the PDF file, which is available to download from the class resources section. Now, we use a jeweler's saw to cut this circle out. If you have never used a jeweler's saw before, you can watch my other class on Skillshare. It's called jewelry making for beginners, making color pencil jewelry at home. It covers all the details of how to install and use a jewelry saw and how to use it in the most efficient way. Next, we follow the black line and cut the circle out. The key when cutting this circle is that we would like to cut a little bit next to the black line. There are two reasons why we do this. First, by leaving a little extra on the circle, it allows us to adjust the edge more precisely later. Leaving more is always better than having less. With more material on the edge, we can always take it away but with not enough, we will have nothing to adjust. Second, by cutting next to the black line, we will always see the guide. Now take off the paper template. We have a circle for the base of our coffee scoop. In this class, you have learned two things. One, how to turn rough sterling silver ingots into smooth sterling silver sheets. The key of this process is to anneal your silver for every one millimeter you reduce the thickness. Second, the best practice when cutting a pattern is to leave a little bit extra on the edge. Now, the silver sheet for the base is ready. In the next class, we are going to give it a little style by making it domed. 5. Making the Coffee Scoop Bottom: [MUSIC] Welcome back. In this class, we're going to dome this circle. Before doing anything, lets anneal this sheet of sterling silver first. [NOISE] This will soften our material and it will be much easier to work with. Now, this is ready for the next step. Here I'm using a dapping block. It has different sizes of hemispheres. As we want it lightly domed only, we use the biggest hemisphere and the biggest punch that comes with this block. Place the silver sheet inside of the hemisphere, put the punch on top and then lightly hit the top of the punch with a hammer, like this [NOISE] Keep moving the sterling silver sheet around while doing this. In this way, it will give us a nice, even dome [MUSIC]. In this class you have learned how to use a dapping block to make a domed surface. Now we have the base for our coffee scoop. In the next class, we're going to make the silver sheet for the coffee scoop cylinder. [MUSIC] 6. Making a Rectangular Silver Plate: [MUSIC] Remember that we have two ingots. In the previous class, we worked with the small one. In this one, we will be working on the bigger ingot by turning it into a silver sheet for the coffee scoop cylinder. The pattern we eventually need to cut out is the rectangular shape, so we need to make this ingot long. As the width of this piece of ingot is wide enough to cover our pattern, we just need to roll it in one direction, in this case, [NOISE] same as we did in the previous class. We will soften this piece of silver for every 1 millimeter we reduce the thickness. [MUSIC] Keep measuring it during the rolling process. Once it reaches one millimeter thick, we stop. [NOISE] Now, this sheet of sterling silver is ready. We cut off one end. No need to worry if it's not that straight at this stage. Whenever cutting, the key is to make sure that we have a little bit too much rather than not enough. Measure it at 78 mm of this sheet and cut it off here. [MUSIC] [NOISE] Next, we use the flat file to make this side straight. To get the other side straight, we use a scriber to mark at 22 millimeters and draw a line by using the other straight side as the guide, like this. [NOISE] Once we have the line for the other side, we cut off the extra material with our jeweler's saw. [MUSIC] Again to make it straight, we file the edge with the flat file like this and do the same for all the other edges as well. [MUSIC] With this, the sheet of silver is ready. In this class, you have learned two things. First, how to turn a rough silver ingot into a sheet of silver in the size we need. Second, when using a jeweler's saw [NOISE] to cut out a pattern we want, we would like to always leave a little bit extra around the edge. This will allow us to adjust later. In the next class, we're going to form it into a cylinder shape. [MUSIC] 7. Making the Coffee Scoop Cylinder: [MUSIC] In this class, we are going to form a cylinder of 24-millimeters diameter for our coffee scoop. The tools we will use are the dapping punch we used earlier, a bending block, a metal hammer, and a rawhide mallet. Always start from the biggest groove. Put the rectangular silver plate on top of the bending block, and then lay the biggest stepping punch on top like this, making the silver plate like a sandwich. Next, we gently tap the tapping punch with a metal hammer. You can see the rectangular silver plate is changing its shape. Move the plates along and keep tapping like this. [NOISE] [MUSIC] With the help of my hands, I bend it a little more aggressively. The goal is to get the two ends to come as close together as possible. You can see the plate is still flat towards the end at this point. Next, I put it back to the bending block, Put the biggest punch through the silver, and start to bend the two ends of this silver by gently tapping them. When our silver doesn't bend anymore, we know that we have reached the capacity of this groove, so we use the next smaller one. Now, you see the gaps between the silver and the dapping block handle are much bigger than before. This allows us to keep bending the silver plate and close the gap between the two ends. Keep tapping it gently and change the size of the punch until the two ends finally meet up like this. As I mentioned before, it is always a good idea to leave extra material on. In this way, we can adjust it later. Here, the cylinder is larger than 24-millimeters diameter after bending, so we cut the end off to make it smaller. Use a scriber and the end of the silver plate as the guide to draw a straight line parallel to the end. Here you can see the shiny straight line if I rock the cylinder to catch some light. After that, I cut this extra material off using the jeweler's saw. [MUSIC] Here, I try to close the gap and roughly see if it will fit the bottom of the scoop. It works in this case. Before soldering these two ends together, we need to file them dead straight. So there will be a little gap as possible when they meet. Take your time. [NOISE] Once that is done, we need to close the gap by using the bending block and dapping punch again, just as we did earlier. The difference is that this time, I use a rawhide mallet. It prevents leaving any unwanted marks on our silver surface as I'm going to hammer it a bit harder than earlier. Also, as the diameter of this cylinder is smaller than before, I move to the next groove on this bending block. Gradually, you can see our gap is closing and then the ends touching each other. As these two ends have been hammered, they have been altered a little bit. To get them perfectly straight, we use the same saw we used before to cut down this gap like this. When cutting, try to hold the gap tight with our fingers. Now, when I push the ends together, they close nicely. However, if you notice, once the two ends are not held, they bounce back to leave a gap. The width of this gap is the width of our saw blade. As the cylinder is perfectly round and the ends are straight now, instead of going back to the bending block, we wrap a stainless steel wire around to hold our cylinder tight like this. This stainless steel wire measures 0.4 millimeters diameter. We twist the end of the wire together so it will close the gap tight. When you don't see any light coming through the gap, we have reached our goal. In this class, you have learned how to use a bending block and dapping punch to make a perfectly round cylinder. In the next class, we're going to close this cylinder permanently with silver solder. [MUSIC] 8. Soldering the Coffee Scoop Cylinder: Welcome back to our course. In this class, we're going to close the gap on the cylinder with silver solder. You will learn some of my personal tips on soldering small silver objects. First, we grind some borax flux and apply it onto the gap of the cylinder by using a small paint brush. This is the hard solder. The difference between different types of solder is the melting point. Hard solder has a higher melting point than easy solder. The melting point for medium solder is inbetween the hard and easy solder. Because there is a stainless steel wire wrapping the outside of the cylinder. We put the solder on the inside like this. Then we are ready to light the torch. First, we need to heat up the entire cylinder. Once it's heated, we focus on the area which needs to be soldered. Here is a tip, in order to tell when it's time to move the fire onto the soldering area. We pay close attention to the color of the cylinder. Once it starts to turn orange, it's time to focus the fire on the soldering area instead of heating up the entire cylinder. With my left hand holding the torch, I hold the soldering pick with my right hand and place it very close to the soldering area. In this way, I can always use the soldering pick to guide the flow of the solder whenever needed. Once the solder melts, I will have about 1 to 2 seconds to do any adjustments before the solder settles. Leaving the fire on the soldering area for too long will weaken the solder and eventually melt our cylinder. This takes practice. I still remember the first time I soldered in 2003. I was so nervous that on one hand, I worried it wasn't hot enough. On the other hand, I worried that my fire was going to melt my silver. If you don't get it just right the first time with the soldering principle in mind, just keep practicing. Now, our cylinder is soldered. Time to take the stainless steel wire off. This wire is still in one piece, so we can save it for our next project. Here is how the cylinder looks at this stage. In this class, you have learned two of my personal tips on soldering. One, how to coordinate both of our hands during soldering. Two, how to tell it's time to focus on melting the solder. In the next class, we're going to solder the base of the scoop onto the cylinder. As usual, I will share my personal tips with you. I will see you in the next class. [MUSIC]. 9. Soldering the Cylinder onto the Bottom: [MUSIC] Welcome back. In this class, we're going to solder the base of the scoop onto the cylinder. I will show you what to watch out for in this process. This is the cylinder we soldered in the previous class. Before soldering, we want to make sure the end is completely flat. First, we file it with a flat file like this. [MUSIC] Then we move on to smooth it with an emery paper by grinding our cylinder in a circular motion like this. Next, we leave this cylinder in our safety pickle to clean off all the fire stain. This is the borax we are using. Instead of brushing the borax on the soldering joint bit by bit, we can dip the entire cylinder directly in the borax dish and put the cylinder onto the domed circle like this. As the cylinder has hard solder on, here I use easy solder to attach the base onto the cylinder. In this way, I am planning to only heat up both the base and the cylinder to melt the easy solder and move the fire away before the entire object reaches the melting point of the hard solder. The reason why I place the easy solder on the outside of the cylinder is that if the solder flows around, it will be much easier to clean on the outside of the bowl than if it is inside of the bowl. [MUSIC] Once the easy solder starts to melt, we remove the fire. You can see it from this angle the easy solder has flowed to fill up the gap between the cylinder and the dome base. Here I'm showing you another way of soldering such an object, is to heat up the bowl from underneath. The benefit of this, is that it will have less chance to overheat the cylinder because the fire is directly focussed on the base. The stainless steel mesh is held by a metal tripod like this. This is just another option. Now, the base has been attached to the cylinder. We're going to clean it by leaving it in the warm safety pickle for about 25 minutes. [MUSIC] In this class, you have learned how to solder the base of the scoop onto the wall of the cylinder. [NOISE] In the next class, let's clean this small silver bowl. [NOISE] [MUSIC] 10. Cleaning the Coffee Scoop Bowl: [MUSIC] Welcome back. In this class, we're going to clean the bowl. You will learn how to clean a simple silver object with a curved surface. First, we cut the excess material off the edge by using a jeweler's saw. Make sure not to cut it too close to the edge [MUSIC] Always leave a little bit of material on the edge for us to clean later [MUSIC] Next, we use a flat file to take off the excess material on the edge. When doing so, always keep moving the file following the curve of the cylinder. In this way, we will not make a flat area on the curved surface. If we have left any marks when making the wall earlier, we can smooth it out in this stage as well. Now, the basic structure of our bowl is finished. You have learnt how to clean a simple curved surface. In the next class, we will focus on giving this little bowl a handle [MUSIC] 11. Drilling a Hole in the Bowl: [MUSIC] Welcome back. In this class, we will prepare the bowl for receiving a handle. You will learn how to open a hole on this bowl. [NOISE] First, we use a marker to draw a guide for where our handle will be. This is five millimeters down from the top edge of this bowl. Next, let's drill a hole. When making a hole on any surface, it's always a good idea to start from small and gradually work our way up to big. There are two reasons for this. First, if the hole we drill is a bit off the place we want it, we can relocate the position by moving it a bit left or right while making it bigger. However, we can't do it the other way round. Second, when the twist drill is small, it's much easier to control than a bigger one, especially when you are working on a curved surface like this. Here, I use a drill press to make this hole. This is a 0.7 millimeter twist drill. Because the wall I'm drilling is only about one millimeter thick, we can press it all the way down in one go. Here is my small hole. Next, I'm going to use a one millimeter twist drill to make it bigger. When we need to hold this little bowl tight, safety first, make sure your finger is not behind the hole. My other class on Skillshare called jewelry making for beginners, making color pencil jewelry at home, explains in detail how to use a handheld drill like this. The third twist drill I'm going to use here measures 1.25 millimeters diameter. Bit by bit we are making this hole bigger and bigger. After that, I'm using a 2.5 millimeter ball bur to enlarge it to the final size. [NOISE] Now, this hole is ready. In this class, you have learned how to open a hole on a curved surface. In the next class, let's start making the handle for our coffee scoop. [NOISE] [MUSIC] 12. Making a Silver Wire from an Ingot: I feel thankful that you are still here, especially when you have noticed that my English accent is not very beautiful. But I hope my jewelry-making skill and personal tips can make up for that. So far, we have been working with silver plates. In this class, we will be working with a wire. First, we will start making the handle for our coffee scoop and you will learn how to form a square wire from scrap sterling silver. [BACKGROUND] Again, this is clean scrap sterling silver I have left from other projects. We will melt it just as we did earlier. [NOISE] The only difference is that we pour the molten silver into a narrower groove like this. [MUSIC] Then we dissolve the fire stain by merging it in safety pickle. Here is the draw plate that we will eventually use to make the 2.6 millimeter round handle. But the biggest hole on this plate measures 2.8 millimeters diameter. Our ingot is six millimeters thick. The way to solve this problem is to give this ingot a square section and reduce it bit by bit using our rolling mill. Now we have the ingot like this. All the surface are a bit uneven. Let's feed this through the flat roller a few times to make the shape more defined. In this way, it's much easier to feed it through the biggest groove for a diamond shape. [BACKGROUND] The key when reducing this piece of ingot is to anneal it once for every 0.5 millimeters, the size goes down. After heating it up. Make sure to leave it in room temperature to cool. Once the section is down to three by three millimeters, we stop. After all the rolling, the piece of silver has turned more than 250 millimeters long. As our handle is only 85 millimeters long, we cut this piece of silver at 100 millimeters length. Later, when we reduce the size of the section, this piece of silver will turn longer. 100 millimeters will be definitely more than what we need. This is what we have at this stage. In this class, you have learned two things. One, how to make a square section wire from scrap sterling silver. Second, in order to make a round wire, we have to make it square first. In the next class, we will turn this wire round and you will learn what to watch out for in this process. [MUSIC] 13. Making the Handle: This is the three by three millimeters thick wire we have made from the previous class. In this class, we will turn the section to be round. Let's have a look at the tool we're going to use here. A round draw plate. The biggest hole in this draw plate measures 2.8 millimeters and we want this wire to go down to 2.6 millimeters diameter eventually. We're going to file the end of our square wire down to less than 2.6 millimeters across. In this way, it can go through the 2.8, 2.7 and 2.6 millimeter hole without us having to keep coming back to file it three times. A length of about two cm away from the end of this wire. This will be enough for our draw tongs to hold onto. Now the end of the square wire is ready. Let's move onto our next tool, the tabletop draw bench. This was made at my studio with all the materials found in a few hardware shops. If you're interested, I do have another video to show how it was made. In this class let's focus on how to use it to make our round wire. First, we put the smaller end of the square wire through the 2.8 millimeter hole on our round draw plate and put the draw plate behind these two plates. Next, we use these draw tongs to hold the end of the wire, which comes through the draw plate. After that, we use the handle on the other end of this draw bench to pull the wire through the 2.8 millimeter hole like this. Then we put the end of the wire through the next hole down, the 2.7 millimeter diameter. Hold it with the draw tongs and then pull it through slowly with the handle at the other end of this draw bench. Do the same with the last hole, 2.6 millimeters diameter. When pulling wire through the round draw plate there are two things to remember. First, for every three holes we pull anneal the wire. This will make the wire very easy to pull and remain in good quality. Second, don't skip the holes. Always go through the holes one next to the other. Skipping holes will risk breaking the wire. At this stage, our 2.6 millimeter round wire is ready. In this class, you have learned how to turn the square wire into a round one by using the round draw plate and the tabletop draw bench. [NOISE] In the next class, we are going to solder the handle onto the bowl we made earlier. [MUSIC] 14. Soldering the Handle onto the Bowl: [MUSIC] In this class, we're going to solder the handle onto the bowl we made earlier, and you're going to learn how to direct the solder to flow where we want it to go. Remember, we filed the 2cm end of this wire down to less than 2.6 millimeter diameter earlier in the previous class. Next, we cut five millimeters away from the end of this wire [MUSIC] and put it into the hole we drilled earlier in the bowl. It's sticking out a little bit too much, so we file a little bit off. [NOISE] We only want one millimeter of the wire sticking out of the inner surface of this bowl. Here are the reasons why I don't want to make it flush with the inner surface. First, this is a small silver spoon. The entire weight of this bowl and whatever we're going to hold within this bowl will be resting on this handle. If you look at the diagram here, the gap between the handle and the bowl will be filled with solder. If there is a small section of the handle protruding into the bowl, the silver will flow around it and act like a rivet to secure the handle and make the joint stronger. With a little bit hanging out of the surface, it actually strengthens the structure of the spoon. Second, I would like to give this spoon some rustic style by having it hanging out a tiny little bit. Now, we brush some liquid borax on the joint, put some easy solder on, and move to the soldering station. It doesn't show very well from this angle, but you can still see my solder is on the outside of this bowl. It touches both the handle and the bowl. To keep the handle in position, I have it rest on another soldering surface. If you don't have another soldering board to hand, anything heat-resistant will be fine. Here, I use the same torch as when I was making the ingot. Once the entire piece is turning dull orange, we focus the heat on the bowl to melt the easy solder. Because solder flows wherever it is the hottest and I have put the solder outside of the bowl. Now, I move the fire inside of the bowl. The idea is to make the inside of this little bowl the hottest. By doing this, the heat will draw the solder through the gap between the handle and the bowl, and eventually come out to the other end of the hole. Here, you see the solder disappear from the outer surface of the bowl because it has gone inside the gap to the inside of this bowl to fill our gap on the inner wall. After the solder is melted, we keep the fire on the area where the joint is for another 2-3 more seconds. This will make sure the solder is settled. If we want the silver to remain soft, after heating it up, we'll leave it at room temperature to cool slowly. This is the final shape of our coffee scoop. [NOISE] To make it more durable, we want to harden it by pouring cold water directly onto the hot metal we drop its temperature rapidly. This results in hardening the shape of our scoop. This process is called quenching. Here, I use rainwater I collected over time to make the process as eco-friendly as possible. As we want this handle to be around 8cm long only, we cut off the extra bit using our saw [MUSIC] and then file the end smooth like this. The best way to test if it is still sharp or not is to rub the end of the wire with our fingers. If it is touch smooth, it has passed our test. In this class, you have learned how to direct the solder to flow where we want it to go. In the next class, we are going to clean this scoop. [MUSIC] 15. Finishing the Coffee Scoop: [MUSIC] This is how our coffee scoop looks at this stage. In this class, we're going to make it shiny. First of all, we want to take off all the fire stain by leaving the entire scoop in a bowl of safety pickle. How long it takes really depends on two factors. First, how concentrated the pickle solution is. Obviously, if it's newly mixed, it will work much faster than a bowl of used pickle. Second, how much fire stain is on the surface, and if there is any flux residue left on our piece. In this situation, as my pickle is newly mixed and there is very little flux residue on the surface, this takes 25 mins to have all the surface of our scoop clean. Here you can see the surface where it touched the bottom of the glass bowl has not been exposed to the pickle enough. There is still a trace of the fire stain on it. We have to turn it over and leave it for another 10 more minutes until it turns completely solid white. That's how we know it is done. Take this through running tap water to get rid of any chemicals. Then we can use a 400 grit sandpaper roll to take off any mark on the surface like this. [MUSIC] Once the surface is smooth, finish with sandpaper, we put this into a rotary tumbler barrel. Seal the lid and turn the tumbler on for 45 minutes. To mix the lubricant and stainless steel shot, you can simply follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. The key when using the rotary tumbler is to make sure the screw is not too tight or too loose. Otherwise, the mixture inside will leak. With the shiny stainless steel inside of the barrel, polishing our coffee scoop, we can take a break. [MUSIC] Now, this is ready. Rinse our scoop thoroughly in running water to reveal our finished coffee scoop. [MUSIC] Tadaa! This is our shiny coffee scoop. All that hard work is worthwhile. In this class, you have learned how to clean your coffee scoop and give it a final shiny finish. Now, make yourself a cup of coffee. You have earned it. Up next, final thoughts. [MUSIC] 16. What We Have Learned: [MUSIC] Now you have finished all the classes in this course. Through the project of making a simple coffee scoop in sterling silver, you have learned recycling sterling silver scrap, making silver plates and silver wire, using silver plates to form a cylinder and a dome. Soldering a small scoop and polishing it with my personal tips to help along the way. If there is one takeaway I would like to point out is that when working with precious metal, always plan for the next step when working on the current one. All the silver smithing techniques you have learned in this course can be applied to other silver smithing and gold smithing projects. If you have made your own coffee scoop, I would love to see your process pictures and finished scoop posted in the project section here on Skillshare. Thank you so much for joining me in this class. I'm making more courses like this on Skillshare. Please follow me here for upcoming classes in the near future. I will see you in the next one. [MUSIC]