iPhone Filmmaking: Film Professional Videos with Your iPhone

1. Introduction: So you just bought a new iPhone hoping to get videos like your favorite creators. But in reality, your videos, they look like this. Well, if that's the case, then you have come to the right place. Welcome to the iPhone filmmaking master class. Where I'll show you how to create professional looking videos with this little device. In this class, I'll walk you through a step by step process of how to achieve the same video quality you see from high end cameras. Of course, we'll cover the best video settings, how to get the most out of your iPhone, but I'll also give you tons of real life examples. Tips on framing your shots, capturing beautiful dynamic movement. Of course, how to collaborate your footage to get that cinematic look. So if you're ready, then let's get started. 2. Class Overview: Before we head further, I want to give you a brief class overview. The first one, who is this class for? This class is for anyone whose iPhone can shoot in Apple Lock. So if you have iPhone 15 P, 16 P, 17, you can join this class. And now let me tell you how did I structure this class? In the first few sections, I'm going to give you an overview of how to film videos from the inbuilt iPhone camera app. I would also discuss some of the camera parameters such as focal length, aperture, shutter speed, and all that basic knowledge that would help you to gain a bit more understanding of how the cameras in your iPhone, they work. Once we have mastered the inbuilt camera app, then we're going to jump on to how to film professional looking videos in Apple PRES log. If you are not interested in how the iPhones basic camera app works, you can jump straight to the section where I'm teaching you how to film videos in Apple Log. To film videos in Apple Log, I'm going to be using an external app which is called the Black Magic Cam App. I'm going to be showing you how to install that, and that app is absolutely free. Once we have mastered how to film videos from the iPhones camera app, from the Black Magic Cam app, then they're going to side, and I'm going to be showing you some of the real world examples where we would be filming in different scenarios such as a super harsh bright daylight. We would be also filming in indoors. We would be filming in dark scenarios, and I'm going to be showing you how you can change various settings in the Black Magic Cam app to achieve the best video quality possible because you cannot just put one setting in the app and film in every scenarios. With each scenarios, you have to change a few parameters to get the most out of your iPhone. And after that, I'm going to be showing you some of the camera accessories that can help you to get creative while filming And once we have done all the filming, then we would be jumping on in the editing software where I'm going to show you how to color grade Apple Log image, how you can transform an image from this to this. And, of course, we're going to be using D Mint Resolve. But whatever I'm teaching, you can use the same method in any video editing software. And once you finish this class, I have also given you a class project. So remember, I told you that all the scenarios we would be filming so whatever shots I've taken from my iPhone, they're all in the description below. So all the rock clips are included with this class. So if you don't want to go out and practice right now, then you can just download my videos and make a 1 minute video from that sequence. And of course, by practicing that, you would be learning how to color grate. You would just get an idea of how the iPhone footage is and what are the possibilities. Know more about the class project, check out the description. And in the end, if you enjoy this class, give a review. If you think that something could have been improved, please let me know in the discussion panel. And of course, if you have any questions throughout this entire class, feel free to ask me the questions in the discussion panel or you can reach out to me on my social media. Now, with the class or we done, let's get started with the actual class. 3. iPhone's Camera Basics: So before we go out and film videos from an iPhone, you need to understand what are these cameras they're doing? What are the possibilities and what are the limitations of these cameras? So in this iPhone, there are three cameras. The first one is the main lens, which is 24 millimeters. The second one is the ultra wide lens, which is 13 millimeters. And the third one, which is the telephoto lens, also called as the Zoom lens, which is in iPhone 16 pro 120 millimeters. So what does all these millimeters mean? Here's a shot at 13 millimeters. And here's a shot at 24 millimeters. And this is a shot at 120 millimeters. So by now, you would have figured out that the less the millimeter is, the wider the lenses, the higher the number is, the more zoomed in the picture is. But the focal length, the millimeters, that's not the only difference in these lenses. These three lenses also have different aperture number. Now, what is aperture means? I know this might sound a bit confusing, but if you watch this chapter again and again, then you would have a bit more understanding. So aperture number. The lower the aperture number, for example, 1.5, 1.8, the better the lens is when it comes to filming in low light. The higher the aperture number, for example, F four, F five or F six, the ability of the lens to film in low light is not good. So the main camera in my iPhone, which is the 24 millimeter, has the lowest aperture number, which means that is the best lens when it comes to filming in low light. And lower aperture number also mean that you would have more blur in the background. For example, if you see this image, this is shot at 1.8 focal length. And if you see the same image, that is shot at F 11 focal length. So you can see the difference that lower the aperture number, there's more blur, higher the aperture number, there's less blur. So that's why most of the time I film with the main camera in the iPhone because, of course, it's 24 millimeters, so that is perfect for logging. But then you also get that blur in the background that looks a bit more cinematic, that almost makes it look like the footage has been filmed on a professional camera. But the aperture number of the wide angle lens, which is the 30 millimeter lens, that is a little bit higher, which means the lens capacity to film in low light is not that great. And also in the iPhones, the sensor size of the main lens is the biggest, and the sensor size of the wide angle lens or the zoom lens is a bit small. So that also means that the image quality coming out of those lenses are not the best. So when I'm filming from my iPhone, most of the time I am filming from the main camera, which is the 24 millimeter sometimes I use wide angle lens when I cannot fit the subject or when I cannot capture the entire scene. So that's the only time I would use a wide angle lens because if you use a wide angle lens in super dark scenarios, you can see in this image that the image just falls apart. And in the same scenario, I'm using a normal lens, the 24 millimeter lens. And the image looks quite decent. So that's why I wouldn't be filming in the wide angle lens when it comes to filming in low light. Same goes for the telephoto lens, the sensor of the telephoto lens is a little bit small. It's really nice when you are filming in the broad daylight, but when you're filming in low light, it's not the great. So overall, my opinion would be if you're filming from an iPhone and if it's possible, film majority of your shots with the main camera. It's really, really good. Even the photos from the main camera is really good. But the videos, they are really, really good. And of course, I'm going to be showing you how to get the most out of the camera, how to film in the best video quality. That's for later. But the best tip for now is film as much as possible from the main camera in your iPhone. 4. Best Video Settings: Now that we have learned which camera is the best in the iPhone, now let me show you some of the best video settings to get a beautiful video from your iPhone. So what are we going to be doing? We're going to go to the settings in the iPhone. Then we're going to be going to the camera which is here. And then if you scroll down, then here you see record video, records Slomo, record cinematic. So record video is just recording video in the normal format, normal speed video. I am usually filming at ten ATP at 30 frames per second. If I have to film Instagram stories or if I have to film just random videos for my memories. But if I want to film videos that I want to edit nicely or that I want to do some color grading on that, then I would do some changes in the video setting. First change, if you go record video, I would be filming at four K 24 frame per second. Your question would be, why film in four K? Check out these two videos. They look really normal when it's placed side by side. But if I zoom in to 400%, then you can see that the video which was filmed in high definition or ten ATP, that just falls apart. And the four K video that still looks a little bit sharper than the high definition video. So that's why I recommend to film in four K because if in post production, if you have to zoom in in any image, then you can zoom in slightly, and the video quality wouldn't be lost. Yeah, that's how in my opinion, you can get the best video quality from an iPhone is by filming in four K. But if you're filming just general videos, just for memories or just for Instagram stories or yeah, just random videos, then just film in high definition because filming in four K, it also takes a lot of space in your iPhone. So you have to be careful with that. And the reason why I would be filming at 24 frames per second is, I have to show you some more examples. So you can see that this video is filmed at 24 frames per second. Video at 60 frames per second and this one at 120 frames per second. And if I put all of them side by side, then you can see that the four K video, which was filmed at 24 frames per second, that looks a bit natural. The motion is a bit more natural, whereas the video which was filmed at 120 frames per second, it just looks a bit more fluid, and it looks ultra real too real. It doesn't really look cinematic or it doesn't really look something what you would watch on television or on YouTube. So that's why all the filmmakers or whatever videos you see on YouTube or in films or TV series, they're all filmed at 24 frames per second. And that's why if you want to film a normal looking video, which can kind of give a cinematic vibe, then film at 24 frames per second. But now your question would be, why we should even film at 120 frames per second. Check out. I'll just put all the three videos side by side. If I reduce the speed of all these videos, say four times, so you can see that the four K video, which was at 24 frames per second, it's a bit choppy. But the hundred 20 frames per second video, that looks like a really smooth slow motion video. And that's why you should be filming at high frame rates if you want to slow the video down in post production. If you slow down the 24 frames per second video in the post production, then the video looks a bit choppy. Was 120 frames per second video, you slow it down, so then the hundred 20 frames per second video, it gets converted into 24 frames per second. And then it's playing at five times lower speed, and it gives a really smooth slow motion. A rule of thumb, if you're filming a normal talking shot video or if you're just filming a normal pace video, always film at 24 frames per second. But if you are filming a video which you would convert into a slow motion video in the editing software then film at higher frame rates. So that's what I would be doing. So record video, I would just keep at four K, 24 frames per second. When it comes to slow motion, then if I need a best video quality, then I would film at four K 120 frames per second. But you can see in the description below that four K 120 frames per second video that takes a bit more space. So that's what they're showing here that it would be seven 40 megabytes, 420. It's in general, it just takes more space, but then you get a really crisp 420 video. Why I choose the record slow here is that because then my iPhone already gives a slow motion video straightaway. Then I can already play back the video in my iPhone in slow motion if I film at four K 120. But if I just film at four K 120 in the record video setting, then I cannot really see the slow motion effect in the iPhone. I have to go in the editing software. Then I will see the slow motion effect. So record video, I just put a four k 120, record slow motion, I put at four K 120 frames per second, as well. And sorry, record video, I put at four K 24 frames per second. And then record cinematic. Later on, I would also show you how to film in cinematic mode. I also keep at four K 24 frames. And now record sound. I put it to spatial audio because then you can do some settings in the iPhone to do some tweaking in the audio, what I'll show later. Preserve setting, I would turn it on the camera mode, the control menu, the creative menu. What it does is that I say, for example, if I did the changes here, four K 24, four K 120, and if I do preserve setting, then every time when I open the app, my settings are saved. I don't have to change the settings always. So when you click on preserve setting, then you can toggle on the camera mode, controls menu, creative controls, all these things you can toggle on. Everything which is not on my phone, you should copy the exact same setting. Portrait Zoom, preserve portrait mode, Zoom, I wouldn't do that. Action mode, I would turn into a Pros and resolution control. Yeah, I'll turn it on as well. Live photo, I'll turn it off because sometimes by mistake, I turn on the live photo and then all my photos are live photos. But that's the photos we're talking here about videos. So that was preserved setting. And then composition, I would turn on the grid. I would also turn on the level. I would do mirror front camera. And then I would do view outside the frame as well. Once we are in the camera app, then I'll show you why have I turned all these on. Now, if I go to fusion camera, then you can see that the default camera should be at 24 millimeter because that is the actual millimeter of the iPhone. And here, additional lenses, this is just a cropped in mode. Remember, the main camera it can film at 24 millimeters. And if you kind of crop that in, it looks like it is being filmed at 35 millimeter, which is disetting the two x but I don't really have a two x lens in my iPhone, so I don't really use it because this is just zooming in in this lens and giving me that image. So in reality, I don't really use it. So here we can turn this off as well, camera settings. Lens correction, I'll turn this on. Macro Control, I will turn this on. So what happens is that the ultra Zoom ultra wide angle lens of the iPhone that also can film in macromdes, which means that you can go really close to a subject and film super details of that subject. So that's why I'll turn that on. So those were the general video settings. Now maybe let's go to the iPhone camera app and then we can see if we need to change anything here. So yeah, you can see here from whatever changes we made, I'll just do vertical, horizontal, sorry. So whatever changes we made video mode in the video mode, you can see that there's four K, there's 24 frames per second here. You can also change the frame rates from here. But because it's a normal talking video, I'll put it to 24. And then if I go to slow motion here, then remember we chose four K 120. So now it says 120, and you can, of course, change it here as well. So I would leave it to four K 20, and then cinematic mode, we chose to four K 24. So that is four K 24. And remember we turned on the grid lines. Grid lines are these lines. What you see here. And then there was also this leveler. If I til the phone like this, then the iPhone shows me that the framing is not leveled. And if I do it like this, it turns yellow, which means that the framing is leveled. So those were the few video settings that you need to tweak in in the iPhone camera app. 5. Filming with Main Lens: So now that we have learned all the theoretical part, let's actually learn how to use the iPhone native camera app to get the best video output. So we're going to be just turning on the camera app. And right now it is super bright outside, but I put this diffuser, which I can show you with the wide angle lens. So this is a diffuser, which is kind of diffusing the sunlight because without without the diffuser, I would look so bright. So yeah. Anyways, now we have to film the Naropac video. I would be filming at four k, 24 frames per second. And in the first scenario, I would be just filming myself like a talking head shot. So for that, I would be just using the one X lens, the 24 millimeter lens. And let me show you how that looks. So I wouldn't be doing anything with exposure, anything with focus, and I would just hope that the iPhone does its job to, yeah, detect my face. So let's try that out. So here I'm filming from an iPhone, and this is the main camera lens, which is a 24 millimeter, and this is the shot from my professional Sony camera. So because we are just filming a normal talking headshot, it is nice to film with a main camera because we are also getting that nice cinematic blur in the background. And you wouldn't get that kind of blur when you're using the super wide angle lens, which is the 13 millimeter. So let me show you a shot with the super wide angle lens. This is a wide angle lens, and you can see that the blur behind me is gone and the footage looks not that professional as compared to the previous one. So that's why when you're doing a talking t shot, it is really important that you just film with 24 millimeter, the main camera. And now let's show you some other scenarios. 6. Filming with Zoom Lens: Here in this shot, we're going to be taking some creative shots from the iPhones. So I'll just turn on the screen recording. So last time we just did the talking head shot, which looked pretty good, in my opinion, and now we're going to be taking some close up shot with the same setting four k, 24 frames per second and with the main lens. So let me take a close up shot of this plant. So if you see here, this flower is blurry, which means it is out of focus. So what are we going to do? We'll just tap on the screen here. And now iPhone is trying to focus this. And if I just keep tapping, maybe move the camera front and back. I also feel that because this is such a thin plant, the iPhone cannot really focus it. And you see, we have got it, because the wind is blowing so this plant goes out of focus every time. And you see what happened now. Now the iPhone switch to the macromde to the wide angle lens. You see what's happening now. So to switch that off, I would just toggle this switch. So my lens is stuck to the normal 24 millimeter lens, not the wide angle lens. So now it looks like it is in focus. I'm going to press record. And if I want to lock the focus here, then I can just press on the screen, and the iPhone would lock the focus and also lock the exposure. You can see in the top it looks like it says AE AF. So auto Exposure and autofocus locked at this plant to see how nice it looks, how much blur you get in the background. And we are not even in portrait mode at the moment. That looks really fantastic. And now what I want to do is that I want to take a Zoomed in shot. With the five X lens. So I will just switch to the five X lens, and I'll make sure that these things are in the foreground, you know, these plants, this one. And then they are a bit blurry. So I also want to make sure that the focus is not on these plants, it is here. So I would just press the focus on the lotus, which is far away and see how nice it looks. And if I want to switch the focus to the plant in the foreground, I will switch it. You see how nice it looks. Just by learning a few of these little techniques, you can get some really beautiful shots from the iPhone. If I just switch to focus, and of course, if I click on the screen, this exposure bracket, it comes up and you can also change the exposure like this. If you just drag your hands down, the exposure goes down. If you drag your hands up, the exposure goes up. I'll just leave it to here. Let's bring the focus back to the leaves. It looks so pretty. And I can also just move the camera a little bit slightly. To maybe this pink plant and just whatever I need to focus, I just need to tap on the screen, and the iPhone should focus. And if I just focus on the background, see how beautiful it looks. I usually use the main lens, which is the 24 millimeter and the five X lens. Because if I use the 0.5 millimeter lens, you see, it just looks not that pretty. I only use it the ultra wide angle lens when I have to take any architecture shot. And I'll show you something even really cool. There are some swans there. So if I just click on that, I'll just focus that. This frame looks really pretty. There's some flowers in the foreground and some swans and their babies in the background. And there are some frogs screaming. So I would also make sure that you see, if I do like this, the camera is a bit tilted. If I make it like this, then it's kind of leveled. 7. Cinematic Mode Explained: Now let's talk about the iPhones portrait mode, which is really common to use these days or cinematic mode, what you call. And when you were in cinematic mode, you see some different options. So, of course, it says here it is filming in four K 24 frames per second. But underneath that, there is also another button called F, which is the aperture. That's what we discussed before that the lower the F is, the more better the camera is in filming in low light and the more blur you see in the background. If you just toggle on F, then you can see on the right hand side, that here there is something called F 2.8, and there is a meter. So if I just scroll down, it goes at 2.0. If I scroll up, it goes F 16. So what does that mean? So let's focus on this plant, this flower. See if I'm at F two, you can see that there's so much blur in the background. But the blur looks not very natural. The top of the plant, it's also blurring the top of the plant, which it shouldn't. But once if I move the F to F 5.6, it looks pretty good. Then it looks pretty believable because what's happening in portray in cinematic mode is that iPhones AI is doing its job to make the blur in the background. It's not because of the lens. What happened because of the lens was when we filmed in the normal mode with the main camera, what I just showed you before, and there you cannot change the F because that F is coming out of the lens. There's no software manipulation. But here there is a software manipulation, and that's why you can change the F stock. So that's what I recommend to people is that when they are filming in portrait mode, try not to go at F two because then blur, what you see in the background, it's not really consistent, what you can see here. This leaf shouldn't be blur, ideally. So that's why to make it more believable, I switch to 5.6 or even seven, and you still get decent blur from that. And the best part about filming in cinematic mode is that if I just turn off the recording, then you can also edit in the phone what part you wanted the blur to be. Let me show an example. So let's say if I'm filming this in cinematic mode, this looks really nice. If the picture is like this, we filmed it, and then if I want the focus to be somewhere else, then I can change that as well. I would just go to these three lines and I can move this bracket. I can just tap on the screen, and wherever I would tap on the screen, the video would be focused there. For example, if I tap on the leaf here, it's focused there and the rest of the screen is blurred If I tap up here, and the flowers are focused. The leaves is blur. If I tap here, then the leaves are focused. The flower which was here in the foreground, that is all blur. So you can change that as well in the post. So that's really cool. For example, if you mess up something while filming, you can always just correct it in iPhone, and already in the phone. So that is, I think one of my favorite features when filming in cinematic mode. And once you want to save, however you want. Say, for example, here, you wanted the blur to be here. So let's choose this point. And then here I want and at this point, I want the blur to be on the leaves in the back. So then the blur changes. So if you play the video from the beginning, beginning, the blur would be here, and then later, it changes to there if you want. That's how you can change the blur throughout the entire video. And once you want to save it, you just go done, and it is saved. Let me show you another example of filming a talking head shot in the portrait mode in the iPhone. So let's jump in the iPhone and then I'll show you some set. So we are filming here at four K 24, and I have put the F F 2.0. So let's press record. And I'm hoping that there would be a lot of blur in the background, and it would also look super artificial. So yeah, that's why if you're filming also yourself in portrait mode, the stalking head shot never film at F 2.0. People would instantly know that it's just film in a really bad video setting and you don't know what are you doing. But let's now switch the F stop to five or six or even seven, and then let's see how it looks. So now we're going to go to S. Maybe switch to 6.3. And now when we have switched the F stop to I think 6.3, then this is how it looks. And you see how natural the blur is. And if it's still a little bit unnatural, you can still what you can do is you can increase the F stop, and that would give you, of course, the best video quality. So I've seen a lot of YouTubers filming in portrait mode with using the same video settings. What I'm using now, and it just looks really good. Like if you're just doing a normal talking headshot, you really don't need a professional camera to be filmed. I think this would do the job, but you need a good audio. And that's what we're going to be discussing in the next section. 8. Audio Accessories: Now let's talk about audio. So this is the audio from the iPhone, and this is the audio from the lav mic, what I'm wearing. But now our question would be, the quality is pretty decent from the iPhone. It is pretty good until you go further away. Let me show you. If I'm talking from here, then my audio wouldn't be that clear, as you can see. But because the mic is with me, now I can get a super clear audio. So that's why when you're filming from an iPhone, I think if you really want to make a professional video, then it's really important to invest in a good mic. And the mic, what I'm using and the mic system, what I'm using is the DGI mic two. It has a transmitter like this which just sits in my pocket and the receiver sits on the iPhone. So you can easily just plug it in the iPhone and you can film any videos. I think the video quality is pretty good from an iPhone. It is quite comparable to professional cameras I filmed in good video settings, and the audio still has to catch up. But if you really want a professional output, I think investing in a good mic is the key. And in the upcoming sections, we're going to be also filming outdoors with the mic on, then I'll show you how nice it looks. So yeah, audio is the key as well to a good video. 9. Apple Log Introduction: Once we have mastered the in built iPhones camera app, now let's talk about Apple Log. Your question would be, what is an Apple Log and why is it important? So since iPhone 15 Pro, Apple introduced a capability of iPhones to film in log format. And a log format is a format which was already in the professional cameras in the film cameras, in the mirror less cameras. And what log format does is that? That films a video in, you can say raw format. So what happens with raw format is that you can do some heavy color grading, or if you filmed an image which was super dark or super bright, you can change the exposure to higher extent as compared to a video filmed in normal picture profile. Here is an example of a video shot in just a normal picture profile from my iPhone 16 P. And his exact same video which is filmed in Apple ProRes log. Here we can see the difference. In the first video, it looks like it is shot on an iPhone. But in the second video, you can almost believe that it is shot on a professional camera. And that's what Apple Log does. It gives a professional look through the image. The colors look more natural when you convert the log image into Rec 709 image. So all these images, what I'm talking about, I'm going to be showing you in the editing software later. Yeah, when you convert the log video files into a normal picture profile, then the video quality is significantly better than the video quality if it was filmed in the native camera in the iPhone with the iPhone picture profiles. So that is why Apple Log is important. When should you film an Apologe If you are filming any video which you want to make it look like professional, then you should be filming an epilogue. If you want to film tube logs, if you want to film courses like this, if you want to film a video for a client, then you can film an epilogue. But when you're filming a video just for your travel memories or just for your Instagram stories, then I don't think it is worth it to film an apologe because when you film an epilogue, there are some ways to collaborate the videos in the iPhone, but it is not that effective. You have to go in the computer and convert that video into a normal picture profile, then do some color grading. It is time consuming. It is not the most efficient workflow, but then the results are worth it, but you're not going to be spending too much time to make just an Instagram story. And sometimes you also want to capture videos from an iPhone which you can share with your friends. Don't want to share with your friends the desaturated log image. So yeah, those are the scenarios where you can use or not use the Apolog. I use the Apolog as well when I'm filming my YouTube videos. So a lot of times I cannot take the camera with me or a lot of times if I'm cycling, of course, it's a bit weird, or it's a bit dangerous to film with my big logging camera. So then I use my iPhone as the secondary camera and the video quality, it exactly matches with my $5,000 setup. So yeah, I think like filming an Apple log for me, it is 200,000% worth. Of course, you have to learn how to shoot properly. You have to learn how to color it, but we can cover all that section, so don't worry. But, yeah, I just wanted to explain to you how good and how cool it is to have these kind of filming properties in just this little device. And now let's show you how to film an apple log in the Apple camera so if you open the iPhone cameras app, then you don't really see an option from where you can film in Apple Protest log. What you need to do, you go back into the camera settings. We are in the camera settings. Then you need to scroll down and go in formats. I go in formats, and then what you need to do. And here you can see that there is video capture Apple Poress. You just need to toggle this on. And PssRcording, you need to put it to log, not HDR. And here you would see a little description that ten Bit HDR progress is approximately 1.7 gigabytes for a 30 frame per second. It just says in general that the file size, what you would get is huge when you're filming in Apple Prowess in the iPhone camera app. But just for the sake of this class, I'll show you also how to film in the iPhone camera app. So now when I open the iPhone camera if you go in the left corner here, then you see P's log. So I just toggle this on, and now you can see here that my video, it looks a bit desaturated, which means it is filming Appolog. And if you see on the top, it also says that the maximum time left is 104 minutes. So my iPhone is 1 terabyte, and I think I've used almost 300 gigs. So for 700 GBs, 700 gigabytes, it is only giving me 104 minutes, which is really less. And if I just press record, then my iPhone starts recording in Apple ProRes log in humongous file. So let's just record for 10 seconds, and then I'll show you how big the file size is. And, of course, it's going to be desaturated, as well. So let's go in my gallery. This was my screen recording. You go. So, of course, you can see that is just, it has been filmed in Apolog because it's desaturated. And if I go to Info, ten second video, and it is 604 megabytes. So I think if it was 15 second video, then it would probably be about 1 gigabyte for 15 second video. So imagine filming an entire length video. How much space it would cost. So anyway, that's how you film in Apologe in your iPhone. Oh, yeah, you can film in the iPhones camera app, Apologe. But remember, I told you there is an external app called Black Magic Cam App. In that app, you can film Apologe for free. Let's go to the next chapter. 10. Blackmagic Cam App - Introduction: Now let's talk about the Black Magic camera app. Since this app is released, it has been a game changer for all the iPhone users. The best part about this app is it is free. Remember in the previous section, I talked that how big the file sizes are for the Apple Progress Log videos. I Black Magic Cam App, you can literally film the same video, the ten second video for 30 to 40 megabytes. But first, let me show you how to download the Black Magic Cam App. So what do you need to do? Go to App store here. And then Black Magic camera, type Black Magic camera and it should come here. So yeah, that is the icon for the app. You just turn it on and because I already have the app, I cannot download it, so then you just press Download. Now let's jump in the Black Magic Cam app and let me give you a brief introduction to this app. So this is how the app looks. If I just keep it horizontal, this is how it looks. A lot of things might look a bit overwhelming, but let us go step by step and then we're going to figure out everything. The left hand side, top corner, you would see that there's a lens. It says 24 millimeter. So if I click that the 24 millimeter what I discussed with you before, that is the main lens. But if I go to the wide angle lens, of course, the lens switches to wide angle, then I can also see it's 13 millimeter. Then the ultra zoom lens, the five times zoom lens, that's 120 millimeters. So it really depends on which iPhone you're using. According to that, you can see the different millimeters. I think in iPhone 15 P, the main lens is 28 millimeter. I could be wrong. But the Zoom lens, I'm for sure it's not on 20 millimeters. But anyways, so here you can get the information about the lenses and here we can switch the lenses from this. So I would go back to 24 millimeters, and then you see that the video is a bit overexposed. So if I just tap here in the center or on the wardrobe, then the exposure changes according to the exposure of that particular area wherever I have tapped. Next to the lens, we have FPS, that is frame rates per second. So if I just tap on that, the frame rate, it starts here. So if I go a bit lower, it also says 23.98, which in reality, all the film cameras, all the professional cameras, they film at 23.98. But just for the sake of this video, I'll put it to 24 because my drone that cannot film at 23.98. One of my cameras, it cannot film at 23.98, it films at 24. So just to keep everything in the same setting, I keep the iPhone videos also at 24. But you can always go up. So if I want, I can film at 59.94, and I can reduce the speed in half if I need a slow motion video, or I can go to 120. But the rule of ography is whatever your frame rate is, the shut off speed, which is the value next to it, that should be double of that, the minimum value. So if my frame rate is 24, the shutter speed should be one or 48 or higher. It shouldn't go one or 25 because if I go one or 25, you can see that there's a lot of blur in the motion blur kind of thing, you see. But if I go to one or 50, it looks quite normal. Oh, yeah, shutter speed should be 1/48. It should be double or higher. And also the cool part about shutter speed is that if I go up up up, so the bigger the shutter speed number is, the darker the image becomes. So naturally, if I'm filming outside, then my shutter speed should be high. If I'm fieling inside, if I'm filming inside, then my shutter speed should be 1/48. Or higher, but not less than one or 48. And next to the shutter speed is Iris. So all these numbers, they can be a bit confusing because it's all new for you, I understand. But in the upcoming sections, we're going to be giving you real world examples. I'm going to be filming in different different scenarios. So I'm going to be going through all these settings because that's the time when I would be changing the settings according to the lighting around me. So then you would actually know what is the actual use of shutter speed? What is the actual use of framele per second. Anyways, this is just a brief for you. So if you cannot understand anything, don't worry. By the end of this class, I'll make sure you understand everything. Next to the Sreth of speed is Iris, that is also aperture. Sadly, until now in the Black Magic Cam app and in the iPhones, we cannot change the aperture number in the professional camera as we can. Here we cannot. So with the main lens, the aperture number is 1.8. If I go to sorry, if I go to the telephoto lens, the aperture number is 2.8, which means it's not that good in low light. You can already see the shutter speed is the same. Frame breadth is the same, and the image is darker. But if I go to the main lens, the shutter speed is the same, frame breadth is the same, but the image is a little bit brighter. So with the IRS, you can get information about the aperture number. And Aperture, what it also does is that it can generate blur in the background. So if I just put my hand like this, you can see there's such a beautiful blur in the background. So that's what Aperture is doing as well. And next to the aperture is the timer. So if I just start recording, the timer starts. And when I record, the image is filming in Apple Porus log. But if I don't recall, if I turn off the recording, then the app shows me how the video would look when I color transform. So that's really handy. So it's like I'm not all the time just looking at the image which is desaturated. The app is recording the video in desaturated mode so that I can go in the computer and color but here just for my convenience, the app is showing the video in normal picture profile, and how that is happening is if you go, there's a lot button in the corner, which means that there's a lot applied. If you are seeing video in desaturated mode, later we're going to go in the camera settings, and we're going to change that. So don't worry about that. Next to the timer, we have ISO. So ISO is another parameter of a camera. So the rule of thumb is when you're filming outdoors, you can keep the ISO as low as possible. But if you're filming indoors, you can increase the ISO until you get a good exposure in the image. But the problem with ISOs are if the ISO is too high, then you start seeing grains, but we're going to cover that later. So yeah, with ISO shutter speed, you can change the exposure of the images. White balance is a property of the camera where it helps us to retain the whites being white in the camera. Like now at the moment, I feel that this image is a bit yellow, so you can see that the white balance would change as soon as I tap to auto. So you see as I taped to the auto, the white balance went more towards the blue side. So now it is at 3,850 Kelvin. If I went up, it was a little bit warm. There is a white pot in the image. If I do auto, the camera kind of makes sure that the whites are looking white. In my opinion, it doesn't do the best job because I feel that the pot is looking a bit blue. It is looking white at this white balance. So that's why I lock the white balance always so that the white balance is not changing when I'm filming. What I do is that I put it to Auto, and then I go from there, and then I just go with my eye and see how the white balance is. And if I want to lock the white balance, I can just press lock here. Same with the shutter speed. I I want to lock the shutter speed, I can just press Lock here. If I want to, you cannot lock the ISO, so don't worry. Then tint is the amount of greens and pinks what you see in the image, but we're going to talk about it later. So that was the top portion. Now let's go to the bottom portion. On the left hand corner, there is histogram. If you don't have histogram, we're going to be going in the Black Magic Cam app settings, and then we're going to be changing the histograms. Next to the histograms is the storage capacity of the iPhone. Remember when we were in the iPhones in built camera app, the recording capacity was 104 minutes. And here the recording capacity is almost 28 hours. So you can see the difference when you're filming from the inbuilt camera app and when you're filming from the Black Magic app. Of course, you have to change some settings in the app to get the smallest file size and the best quality. We're gonna be changing that later. I'm sure you might be seeing less time here because you haven't changed the video quality, but I'll teach you there later, so don't worry. And next to that, we have the audio monitor. So audiosurce now is the iPhone microphone because I haven't attached anything. But if I attach my DGI Mc, then it just shows DGIic if I swipe to the right, then you can see the monitoring level. So if I yeah, here, it just shows different monitor level, which is not really useful, so I just keep it to the default setting because, yeah, it's not that useful to me. After the audio monitoring setting, I go on the right hand side on the top. So here you can see that it's four K because we have chosen the video to be filmed at four K, and here it shows my battery percentage of the iPhone. If you cannot see it, you're going to be changing that in the video settings. But next to the battery percentage, there's a big panel where you can change a lot of settings. Some of them are really important. So if I go click on the first bracket, you can see that there is a circle with stripes. That stripes is called zebra stripes. Let me show you an example. So if I just go my Isu to 3,200, I can see that the whole image is exposed, but there's also a lot of zebras. So that is telling me that, hey, the image here or wait, if I go, say, yeah, so that is telling me that, hey, the image here is super over lighted, wherever the zebras are. So I'm asking you to reduce the exposure. So if I reduce the exposure, then the zebras are gone. So that's what zebra does and how you turn it on, you just go up in the corner here and turn it on. And what I do is that I also bring my zebras. I would keep it to 75 or so. So what it does is that if I go to 100, then my image has to be really overexposed until it tells me. But I want it to tell me already beforehand before it's too late. So you see this image, my camera, the lens of the camera, it is properly exposed. But if you see the wall around me or if you see the light framing, that is not well exposed. So that I have to expose good. So then if I reduce the ISO, say 200, then the zebras are still there, but it's still manageable. Or maybe what I would be doing is I would keep it to 85, like how it was before. So that was zebras, it helps you to determine which is the brightest path in the image. Next to the zebras is focus peaking. So it's going to he's gonna sort of make a boundary on any of the subjects. So if you see my camera, it shows that what is in focus. So that's why it is making these lines around the object. I don't turn it on because I just feel that it's a bit distracting. Next to that is the grid lines. If I turn it off, you can see that the grids are gone. If I turn it on, the grids are there, and you might be asking what is the use of this grid. When we would be going to the next section, then I would be teaching you how to frame subjects, how to make an image look cinematic. And there the grid lines would come in handy. After the grid lines, there is a leveler, but I don't really use it. If I bring my phone here, which means that it is really level, it is horizontal and vertically good. I don't really use it, and this is just a center point, so it shows you what is the center point. I don't use that, but I use this dot. So that dot helps me to determine which is the center point of the frames. If I just put the dot here, which is showing me that that is the center point of the image. That was some of the guidelines that can help you to frame the subject. After that, we have some framing options. So for example, if I want to crop my video like this, if I want to make it look cinematic, in this app, you can already get a preview of what all things are in the frame if you crop the top and the bottom. Or if I'm filming a horizontal video and in the post, I want to make it in vertical, crop it from the side, then I know exactly what all things are in the image, what all things are in the frame. So that just gives me a good guideline. And then if I go down here, you can, of course, change the and they can also add additional brackets. So for example, if I just want to keep my camera here in this frame, because I have to put subtitle on the bottom or on the top, then I have this framing option as well. But I would turn it off for now, both of these, and then we have the false color mode. So here, whatever things are the darkest, they are pink or reddish. So you see the camera, it is a bit dark, so it shows that it is dark. And here we have the lot. So if I turn off the lot, I can see the original Apple Log video. If I turn on the lot, then I have the Rec 79 video. And this lot, I have activated it when I went in the camera settings. So I would just leave it on. So we covered all the things from the left panel. Now we go next to the right panel. This is the focus meter. So you can see that if I bring my hand here, then the focus changes to zero, the focus meter. If I go to my camera, then it changes to.670, something because that time the focus was in autofocus. You can change it to manual and you can manipulate the focus yourself. Don't usually do it. In some cases, I do, but there is a way to log the focus in this app. I'm going to show you later. General case I just use, keep the focus to autumn. After the focus, we have the exposure meter. When I got the iPhone, which could film in Pres log, I was always filming at zero exposure, zero, 0 meters. And then when I would go in the computer and convert the image, the image would be a bit dark. So after a lot of research, I realized that you have to expose your image to a little bit higher. So here I usually expose my image to 0.5. So when I'm recording and when I transform the video to Rex seven or nine color, then the exposure of the image is pretty good. So that's the rule of film. Every log image, you have to overexpose it. So what I'm filming now, I've also exposed it to plus one so that I get a good exposure level when I'm editing. Exposure, I keep it two plus five or 0.7, but we're going to talk about that when we're filming in the real world scenario. So that's the exposure meter. You can also do it to Auto. So auto goes to zero, and wherever I tap, then the iPhone changes the exposure according to wherever I tap. After the exposure, we have the stabilization. So if I do off, then the camera kind of crops out, and here it is showing me the real 24 millimeter, how the zoom level is of a normal 24 millimeter lens. If I go standard, then it sort of crops in a little bit. If I go cinematic, then the stabilization is really, really good from this app. I'm going to be showing you some of the examples later, and you would be really shocked to see how good the stabilization is, but you need to keep it to cinematic. Don't go to extreme because then it's also really taxing on the system, and it's also not that good if you go to extreme, so I keep it to cinematic. We have this lens mode if you do 42, zero, it just crops in in the image. The quality is not that good. If you really want to zoom in, just change the lens from the left corner. So that's the plus here, you can name the shots. I don't really use it, so you can do T one, take two, take three. So when you're editing, it's a bit handy, but I don't really use it. So that's that so now we finished this panel. Now let's go to the next panel. So here it is the camera. If I go to media, then I have everything what I have saved before from the Black Magic Cam app. If I go to chat, if you have the Black Magic Cloud app, then the chat is useful. I don't use it, so it's not really useful. And then here we have settings. So in the next section, I'm going to be teaching you some of the settings which is really, really important to get the best video quality, but smaller file size, and also to just adjust the entire setting of this app according to your personal preference. Yeah, I hope you are following everything. And if it's something is complicated, just copy, what am I doing? And then when we are filming in the real world scenario, then a lot of things would make sense. So don't worry about that. Let's go to the next section. 11. Blackmagic Cam App - Best Video Settings: Now I'll show you the video settings in the Black Magic Cam app. The first one, if you go to setting in the corner here, you see Codec. So the Codec should be earlier, I used to film in Apple ProRes 422 proxy, so that gives us smaller file size, but it's still bigger as then you compare to h.265. But the thing is that when you film in Apple ProRes files, the file sizes are really big, but they're really easy on your system because the file sizes is uncompressed. But the HEVC h.265 files, they are a bit compressed. They are a bit taxing on your system, but the file sizes are really, really small. So if you have a powerful mac, then I would recommend you to film at h.265 but if you don't have a powerful system, then I would recommend you to film in Apple Progress 422 Proxy. You can also film at Press 42 LT. So the higher you go in this four K level, the bigger the file sizes is. But I usually use HEVC four Hdt 265. And the bit rate, I would keep it to maximum, which is 54 megabits per second. The lower you go, the file sizes becomes even smaller, but the video quality is not that good. So just keep the bit rate to max. So that is the video quality resolution, of course, so you're going to be doing four K. Color space. This is really important. So you should be choosing Apple Log HDR. And then Timecode display, I would do record Run. So timecode display is, you know, remember the 0000 what you saw, that it should be recording. So the 000, as soon as you press record, it should show the recording seconds, not the time of the day. Time lapse recording, I'll turn it off. That's really important. And if media drops frame, then you alert. Sometimes if your iPhone, it gets really warm, or if you're filming in extreme stabilization, then iPhone kind of starts dropping frames because the processor cannot process everything. Then it's going to give you an alert that, Oh, the Black Magic came is dropping frames. Enable vertical video. This you should turn it on so that we can also film in vertical. We don't have to always film in landscape mode. Trigger record indicator app, put it to non, and then use volume camera control button to trigger record. So sometimes if you cannot reach the record button, you can also use the volume up or down to record. Lock wide balance on record is really important. So whatever wide balance you choose, sometimes in the iPhone's main camera app, the white balance it just keeps changing depending on the lighting outside, and that looks so unprofessional. So that's why you should be locking the white balance when you're recording. And the recording swipe right, I just turn it management, I would keep it to speed. But if you do angle, then it looks like this at an angle. You know, it's now 297.9. But shutter angle should always be 180 degrees. 180 is when you're filming at 24, the shutter speed is at 1/48. So that's exactly what it is in simple terms, but I still keep it at speed because since I learned videography, I'm always looking at the shutter speed, which is one over something, and I'm used to that. So I keep it at speed and then flicker free shutter based on 50 hertz or 60 hertz. So if you're living in Europe, your flicker free shutter should be 50 hertz. But if you're living in US, change it to 60 hertz because sometimes if you're filming a lamp in your room, the hertz of the lamp is 50 in Europe. So then the video is not flickering. But if you have to 60 hertz, then I can see that the lamp is flickering. So that's I keep it to 50 hertz to reduce any flicker from the lamps outside. Lens correction, I turn it on. An amorphic the squeeze, I turn it on off for now, but we're going to be using some anamorphic lenses later, so then I would turn it on. That's for later. Lock current orientation, if I turn it on, then even if I do it like this, then the orientation wouldn't change. So I just turn it off because then if I'm recording a video like horizontally, then the video is horizontal. And lens correction and then mirror front facing camera, I turn it on. Audio Source now is iPhone Microphone. But if you have a Bluetooth device, then you can change the audio source. Or later on, I would also, I also use my DGI mic, what I showed you before. So then I can just make sure that the DGI mic is selected. IPhone iPhone microphone, there are a lot of microphones in the iPhone, so you can choose which one you want. But I usually do auto, so it gets the audio from all the microphone and gives me the best audio from the iPhone. Then the audio format I record is stereo, sample rate, I just do Auto. With audio, I don't really do much audio monitor, I keep it on. So that is this one. Then I know that the audio is recording. Sometimes it doesn't you have to really keep an eye on. So that's why I enable the audio monitor and then monitor. Focus assist, remember, we opened the focus assist where it was showing what all things are in focus. So then you can put it as peaking. Focus assess color, you can choose it at red, guides opacity. So remember, so you know, these lines, the opacity, I have put it to 25%, but you can also change it to 100% if you want, but I keep it at 25 because I don't want it to be distracting from the other image. Then guided lines are white. The grids opacity is 25% as well. So the guideopacity was remembered the cropping scenario. The blacks which was coming on the side, that was the opacity was 25%. If I put it to 100, then I cannot really see what's around it. So that's why I keep both of them 25. HDMI out, I don't use HDMI out, so that's fine. Display audiometers, audiometer is on. Display histogram. Histogram is really important. This thing, I will show you how to use histogram correctly to see if your image is exposed or not. So that's why histogram is really important. Display storage status. We have it as well. Display upload status. Unless you're using Black Magic Cloud, you don't need to turn it on. Display battery indicator that is really important because the battery of the iPhones, they go really quick if you're filming something. Record proxy. I'm not recording proxy. Everything is toggled off. This one, save location data to clip. I turn it on because then it's going to be saving where I need it to be saved. Save clips in app only sometimes it just saves in the app. But I also want the clips to be in my photo library, so I turned this on as well. And then t selection. Remember, when I look at my video like this, even though it's filming an apple log, it is still showing me normal colors. That is because I have turned on the lot. If I record anything, the recording would still be an Apple log, the desaturated file. But for now, it is just giving me a preview of how my image would look if I do the color conversion. So Apologe to Rec seven oh nine. And then record love to clip. I don't do that because I don't want the colors to be recorded. On the clip, I want my clips to be in Apolog not in Re 79. The color space tag. I would do to Rec seven oh nine. This is really, really important. And then use Bluetooth. If you want to use Bluetooth for your mic, you can turn it on. Remote Ctra camera control. I don't have anything remote camera control, so I don't use it. So that was an overview from the Black Magic Cam app. Some of the things might not be clear to you, but in the upcoming sections, I'm going to be showing you me filming in different different scenarios, and there I would be explaining everything again, whatever I've taught in the app, whatever I've taught you from the beginning. We're going to be going through everything, and now we're going to be actually using everything in the real world. So this is the best learning time. So if you are really tired, just go grab water, take a break or watch the following video some other day because the next section, they would be really interesting. So let's go further. 12. Low Light Video Settings: So we're going to be opening the Black Magic Cam app, and, of course, the first thing what we're going to be doing is we're going to set up the shutter speed to 1 hour 50 and then lock it because we are filming in 24 frames per second. And the second thing, because this scenario is a bit dark, I'm going to be increasing the ISO, and I would just hover around the ISO values to see what exposure suits the best. And I think we're going to keep it to 500 and next we're going to be moving on to the white balance. So our whide balance was 3,200 kelvin, but I wanted this scene to look a bit warm, so I would adjust the white balance to 4,000 kelvins and lock it, as well. So here we have locked the shutter speed to one or 50 because 24 frames per second, ISO to 500 and the white balance to 4,000 Kelvin. And what am I also doing is I'm adjusting the focus by tapping on the screen, and my focus should be on the monitor, and then I press record. And here I would just film myself and this is how the final video looks with the video setting in a darker room. So now we're going to be filming at another angle. For now in this shot, I want my face to be well exposed. So I'll try to increase the ISO to 800 and C. I can see that the outside can be a little bit overexposed because I can see the zebra lines, what we have put in the video settings, that if it's overexposed, they're gonna tell me the app would tell me that it is overexposed. But I would just press record and see how it looks because if something is overexposed, we can't take care of it until some extent in the editing software. Now I would just move myself in the frame. We are at short of speed one or 50. ISO increased 2000 because I wanted my face to be well lit up, and this is how the final shot looks. So now we're going to be taking another shot from another angle, but here I would want to make the room extra dark so I would turn off the lamps. And then I would see how the scene looks and how much ISO we have to push. So I think, yeah, to make this scene a little bit well exposed, I would push the ISO to maybe 2000. And I can also see on the histogram on the left corner at the bottom that now my image is well lit up because the histogram, the graph is peaking in the center. It's not peaking on the side. So yeah, we'll just press record and we'll see how this video looks. Is looking fine, but I can also see that if I increase the ISO to 2000, I can see some of the grains in the videos. So that's the thing with ISO if you push it too much, then you start to see grains in the video. So that's why our main goal should be to keep the shutter sweet of course, at double the frame rate and then ISO as low as possible. But of course, we have to make sure that the subject is well exposed. So that was an example of how you can film in a darker scenario. So now let's move on to the next chapter. 13. Talking Head Shot Video Settings: So what are we going to do is that we're going to be recording the video here and we're going to be changing the record settings or the video setting according to the light which is available here. So what I would be doing right now is I would just tap on the chair just to get a good exposure. So I see that my shutter is locked, so I would unlock it. I also see that the white balance is locked, I would unlock it as well. I would just click on the chair just to see how the image looks. I would also maybe go to exposure, maybe put it to 0.3, and just click on the chair and see how the exposure is. I see that the exposure on my chair is pretty good, so I would go and lock it so that nothing is changing. The white balance we'll see. If I go auto, I can see it's a little bit blue, then I would turn off auto, maybe go 4,000. Maybe 42, 50, let's lock it here. So now that my shutter speed is 1/90, which is not ideal, but because we don't have the ND filter, that is fine. And ISO is 1/1, 14. So let's film at that, but I also see that the video is a bit overexposed on the left hand side from outside. So let's film it and see how this looks. If it's not looking good, then we can reduce the exposure. So here is a video of a normal talking head shot, and I'm just going to see how it looks. Maybe it becomes a bit more exposed because now my face is in the video. So that's also a demerit of filming with an iPhone is that you don't have a flip screen, so you cannot really get a feedback. Of course, if you have an iPad or a mac, you can connect the display, and that would give you a good feedback, but I don't have it here to show you. So I would just go in the app and see the recording and see if something needs to be changed. So let's check it out. What I would do, I would put the shutter to one or 50 maybe. And then try to reduce the ISO to 80 or maybe to 64 and then see now how it looks. So let's record this. And also the thing with Black Magic Cam App is that the focus, it's not 100% reliable, so you always have to go back and forth while checking in, of course, when you are filming yourself. But when you're filming with the iPhone app, it actually makes a bracket around your face. So that's really helpful. I hope Black Magic app can do that in future. But I have reduced the exposure a little bit just to compensate with the light which is outside. And now the sun is gone, so maybe this footage looks really good. So yeah, let's check it out how this looks because in this setting, we have locked down the shutter speed. We have locked down the ISO and the wide balance. So I hope there's no fluctuation in the exposure. So we're going to be checking it out, and then we see how it looks. 14. Day Light Video Settings: So here we are filming with the iPhone in a broad daylight. So there's a bit of cloud on the sun so soon it's going to go, and then I'll show you the video settings because it's completely different than how it was when we filmed inside. So let's go. So here, what are we going to be doing is we'll just open the black magic, and you can see that everything is super overlighted because all the settings were according to how it was indoors. So first thing, what we're going to do is unlock the shutter speed. So we're going to just press on the shutter speed here. And we're going to unlock it. And then if we tap on the screen, then the app should adjust to what the shutter speed should be outdoors. So now the shutter speed is one or 7,299. That gives me a really good exposure. And then with the white balance, I think it's a bit blue, so we're going to just unlock it, put it to Auto. So you see it jumps to 5,280, so we're going to just lock it here. Then I would fill myself and I would see how it looks. I can also see from the histogram that nothing is super over lighted. I'll just bring my hands here to see if nothing is overlighted. What I would also do, I would change the exposure to auto because I can see that the clouds are changing. So once I set up the exposure to auto, you can see that there is an A on the shutter speed and there's an A on the ISO. So if it gets a bit dark, then the shutter speed changes. If I bring my fingers, then you can see that the shutter speed and the ISO are changing. Here what we're doing is we're basically filming in the auto exposure. So if I just want to film myself, the shutter speed goes back to the previous setting, which we don't want. So I'll just click on the screen. This app is not perfect, so yeah, we have to deal with it. So then I have changed the exposure to Auto again. And now let's film me, and I just hope that it is also focusing me. There's always problem of focusing yourself with the upper progress log. And yes, it is not focusing me. So what I would do is I wouldn't turn on the recording now. I would go here against the camera, and then I would turn on the recording now. So now, hopefully it should focus me because last time I touched the screen and the focus locked to the background. But now I didn't touch anything on the screen, so let's hope that it is recording me now. So let's have a look. So right now it is focusing me. So that's the thing with Black Magic Cam app. You cannot trust it 100%, so you always have to go back and forth to see how the video looks. So now with everything in Auto, I'm just filming myself again in a bright sunlight. It looks good. The exposure is proper, and I can also see that my face is well lit up, and I'm hoping that, of course, it's in focus. But what's happening now is not 100% correct. According to filmmaking rule, we are kind of breaking the rule because remember, I told you last time that when you're filming at 24 frames per second, the shut off speed should be one or 50, and we are not following that rule. And because of that, I'm not seeing motion blur. And what motion blur is that it makes the video a bit more cinematic. It makes the video look a bit more professional. What is motion blur? If I just move my hands like this, you can see that there's no blur. It just looks it just looks not very cinematic, but if I put something on my camera and if I said the shutter speed to one or 50, then we would get the motion blur. 15. ND Filters Introduction: So now what we're going to be doing is we open the Black Magic Cam app. We're going to follow the rules of, you know, the shut off speed, which should be 1/50. This is also called 180 degree shutter rule, because the shutter is, yeah, 100 totally opposite of the frame rate. So let's put the shutter speed here and let's lock it. What are we also going to be doing is put the ISO super low, and now we're going to be using something called this ND filter. So as soon as I put the ND filter on the camera, let's make sure that it is properly put here. See that once I put the ND filter, this was before the ND filter, and this is after. So it almost looks like I've put a sunglasses on my camera. In my opinion, it still looks a little bit overexposed. So what are we going to do? We're gonna turn the ND filter like this. And now the exposure looks good, but now when the sun is out, we can set the exposure again. And now let me try to film myself, and then we're going to see how this looks. So here I am filming a video with the ND filter on. And now if I do like this, now you can see that there's a blur here in the motion, that exact same blur I see when I am watching my hands moving. And this is called motion blur, and this gives a bit more cinematic feel to the videos. It makes the video look a bit more professional. Now that you saw some of the videos with and without the ND filter, let me explain to you what is an ND filter or what is a neutral density filter. Basically, they are sunglasses for our cameras or our smartphones, and what they do is that they help us achieve that filmmaking rule, the hundred 80 degrees rule, which is when you're filming at whatever frame rates, the shut off speed should be double of that. But in a lot of cases, what you just saw now, if it's really bright outside, then you cannot achieve that. Then you have to increase the shutoff speed achieve the desired exposure. And that's where these neutral density filter they come in. And you can also change the intensity of these filters, so you can see that you can clearly see my face here. But if I rotate it, it becomes super light. Now it's like a sunglasses, which is not that harsh. And if I rotate it, then it becomes a little bit strong. So all these ND filters, they have different stops. So the lesser the stop is, the less powerful the sunglasses, for example. And the more the stop is, it would look super dark. For example, this is the ND filter at two stops. So you see you can see everything kind of partially. And I have another ND filter. This one. So this is the ND filter. To stops, this is the ND filter at nine stops. So you can see the difference that nine stop ND filter I only use when it's really, really bright outside. And this is just for overcast days. So this ND filter, the less stronger one, I can rotate it or change the intensity from two stops to five stops. And there's another one, I can change the intensity from six stops to nine stops. When I was fibbing outside right now, when the sun was literally on my face, then I was using this ND filter, the one which is a bit more harsh, and I kept these stops to six, not to nine because it's still not afternoon and it's still not the brightest time of the day. But now your question would be, how can I use this ND filter on my smartphone? So there are a lot of companies that make ND filter for iPhones or any other smartphone. But the cheaper ones are not the best. If it's a cheap ND filter, then you get effects like these so instead of just blocking the light, they give this cross effect on the video, and that is just super ugly. And the expensive one which does a good job, they are pretty expensive, like over $100 or even more than that. And I already had these filter, which they are like $100 each and that I use for my professional use, then I got a cheap hack. So what happened was I got this clamp. This is from Teemu. It's like Amazon for Chinese products, and this cost me, I think, four euros. And you can just clamp it on the phone here. And now it gives me this ring, and on this ring, you can attach the ND filter. So ND filter has another variable. The first one was different stops. The other one is the size. So my ND filter is 82 millimeter, which is for all the lenses for my Sony cameras. But here, the size of this ring is 52 millimeter or 57, I think. Yes, 52. So then I got something else, which is called step up ring. I am sure you might be like, another product, another product I have to buy. That's the thing with filmmaking. It is never enough. But I'm just giving you the tools, and you can see what fits in your budget, what kind of videos you want to make. So this is a step up ring. So what's going to happen now? I'm just going to change the 52 millimeter amount. Maybe it is easier that I can do it like this. So these are the things what you buy with the filters as well. So now my 52 millimeter filter mount has turned into an 82 millimeter, and now I can use any of my cameras mount. So if you have a professional camera, then better buy. You should always buy the NV filter of the biggest dimension because you can always lower it down, but you can never bring it big or extend it. And now I can easily mounted on my phone. So now that I have put the ND filter, I can show you what magic it does, and you can, of course, change the intensity of the ND filter according to how you want the video to be. So this was the video before putting anything. And now that I've put the ND filter, you can still see that the video is still super overlighted. I can see just with my eyes. And if I turn on the zebras, you can also see that yeah, it is super overlighted. So what I want to do is I would change the intensity and hope that this works. So it still does a decent job. Maybe I can, the ISO is also at its lowest. So at this point, I think my two to five millimeter ND filter has failed two to five stops. So what I'm going to be doing is I would just change the ND filter to the one with six to nine stops because that is a bit more intense. For first couple of years of my filmmaking journey, I didn't use ND filter. And then I got to know about it. I'm like, Oh, no. There's another thing I have to buy to get the perfect video, and it's always with filmmaking. And once you buy it and once you start using that, then you see the difference. So now that I put the ND filter, you can see the exposure is just perfect. It is at six stop, so the lowest strength of this ND filter. And if I increase the stop, then you can see that the whole video gets even darker. If you don't really need to use the video at this intensity, so I'm just going to leave it at six. If I had to film a slow motion video, then what I would be doing is, I go to FBS, the frame rates per second. If I say if I wanted to film 120 frames per second video, then my shutter speed automatically goes to 240 because I have set this rule that what I told you that the shutter speed should always be double of the frame rate. But now, what happens is my ND filter it is a bit it's a bit too strong for this. So what I can do is that instead of changing the ND filter, I can be a bit lazy and I can change the exposure with the help of ISO. You are still not going to see a lot of grains because I'm still at ISO 250 or I can also just go at ISO 300. And then if I press record, the exposure should be really good. So these are things, these are the parameters you can change to get a really good video. And this is how this video looks in the normal speed. Because we shot at 120 frames per second, you can change the speed to 24 frames per second, which is almost five times. So yeah, this is how you can use ND filter. And if you're a beginner, I would say maybe just film without the ND filter, you know, film a lot of videos without the ND filter first, master the settings, what you already have in the iPhone, what I've already taught you. And then you feel like you are getting a hang of it, and then you feel that, yeah, I've already mastered whatever A has taught me until now until the NDI filter part. And then if you feel like investing in NDI filter, then you do it. Yeah, that's the thing about videography. The more you learn, the more complicated your life gets. There was a point where I would be just filming in the automde in my smartphone or in my GoPro, and life was super easy. And then the more I learned about these camera technicalities, the end result is, of course, really good, really professional, and that's how I'm able to be at this level where I am by learning a lot. But then by learning and knowing a lot, it also makes your life a bit more complicated. Then you need to stress about all these video settings and you need all these accessories to make a good video. So yeah, that was ND filter for you. So here we can see that it is a super bright and sunny environment now. And my ND is set to ND neutral six to six stops. So because it's too sunny, I would just increase the stop to, let's say, seven or even eight and now I would just go film myself because their exposure looks pretty good. So let me go film myself and see how it looks. So this is a shot with an ND filter on, and the sun is right on my face, and now we are actually achieving the shutter rule. So we are filming at 24 frames per second, and my shutter speed is at one or 50. And now if I shake my hands like this, now you can see the motion blur. And that's the exact same blur I see with my own eyes, so it looks a bit more real. But without the ND filter, we cannot achieve this scenario. And that's why ND filters are really important if you want to make your videos look a bit more professional. 16. Framing and Compostion - The Rule Of Thirds: Now it's time to learn framing and composition. Because if you learn this, the framing and composition of a subject of an environment of a landscape, that would turn your videography or that would take your videography to the next level. The first rule of framing and composition is a rule of third, and this is how it looks. A rule of third is a rule in filmmaking or photography where we divide the frame into nine equal parts. And what we do is we place the subject either here, here, here, or here. And if you place the things or the subject or the most important thing along these lines, then the video looks more cinematic, you can say. Sometimes if you put the same subject in the center of the frame, it just feels like the framing is a bit incomplete. But if you place the subject on one third of the frame on either side, that just tells the complete story that where the subject is going. And there's also one more thing really important is that, for example, if you are framing a human. So if I am here on the rule of though, and if I am looking that side, so of course, I'm following the rule of third. But then my audience, they don't know what am I looking at, you know, the frame looks a bit more incomplete because here there is a lot of emptiness, a lot of concentration is here, but then as soon as I'm looking here, the frame stops at this point. But if I place myself here, and then if I'm looking there or if I'm looking here, then that gives the audience a bit more idea of what is going on. Where am I looking? Now, if you go in any movies or if you go in any documentaries, you would see that every time when there is an interview and when the subject is sort of talking to the camera, they are at an angle, and if I'm at this angle, then I would be placed here. If I'm at this angle, then I would be placed here. And that also I do in a lot of my shots if the subject or if me or whoever I'm filming, whatever side they're facing I leave a lot of room on the other side. That also gives the subject a bit of room to breathe. Because if I just put myself this side, then it just looks a bit more incomplete. A lot of times in films, they use this kind of framing as well, whereas the subject is looking this side and you are sort of closing the frame here, and that creates a bit of drama. That creates a bit of curiosity in the movies. But I'm assuming that you are beginner and I don't that you are making any sort of dramatic movie already a Hollywood production. So I would say just stick to the rule of thirds where you place the subject year and they're facing kind of this way. But if you want to introduce drama in the scene, then you know what to do. And one more thing really important with the rule of Thirds is when you're filming a landscape video is this. If you are placing the horizon in the middle of the frame, it looks okay. But if you place the horizon on the top line or on the bottom line, then that gives a bit more information to the audience about where the subject should be focusing on. And one more thing where you can follow rule of thirds is talking when you're filming a talking headshot. For example, in this shot, I am placing myself here. I'm not placing myself here in the center. I'm just checking at this screen. So I'm not placing myself here in the center because that leaves a lot of room over my head. I am placing myself here. So my eye is almost on the top line of the rule of third. So then there is a bit of balance in the image. Ideally, I should be a little bit higher or I can bring this frame a little bit low. Yes. So ideally, I should be here. So that makes the whole framing a bit more proportionate because now you can also see my body language, but there's also not much room over my head, not much empty space over my head. So this is also when rule of Threats are applicable. And rule of Thirds are also applicable when you're filming a vertical video. So when you're filming a subject, a lot of times I personally I put myself or put my face in the center because I know that I want to put some text over my head, you know, when I'm making a Instagram real or TikTok. But if I don't have to leave any room for the text over my head, then of course, I place my eyes on the top line of the framing. I would never place myself at the bottom of the screen because then there's a lot of empty space on the top. So that's when rule of 30 is applicable when you're filming a vertical video. 17. Leading Lines: Now let's talk about diagonal lines or leading lines. So a diagonal line or leading lines, they look like this. So what happens here is that if you really look at the image carefully, you would see a line crossing from one side of the frame to another, and that is that kind of looks like a diagonal. And what that does is that, that kind of directs viewers to the subject. If you see this frame, you can see that the lines all the lines are leading towards the subject. And sometimes it doesn't even have to be human. It can also be subject or it can also just be a point of interest. Sometimes if there is something, for example, if there is a temple or there is a monastery of the end of the road, then the road can act as a leading line which is leading towards the end point of interest. They don't always have to be straight. They can also be curved. They can also be spiral. I know it can be a bit overwhelming. But I would say you learned about the rule of third. Then I would say just go out or go in your backyard or go in a park and just film yourself or film other things. And just teach yourself rule of third. Just practice on rule of third. And once you master that once you kind of have that muscle memory, then practice leading lines, then practice the following steps. Yeah, because I am telling you, of course, all the rules and all the framing compositions at once. But for you, I understand that it's a new thing. It can be a lot of information at once. So yeah, just practice one thing at a time, and once you master that, then you move to the next one. So now we move to the next framing tip. 18. Centre Framing: Now let's talk about center framing. That's kind of almost exactly what am I doing in this frame. So a lot of times, as I told previously, that, yeah, you always have to follow the rule of third, but a lot of times center framing can be useful. And those times are when the subject is in the center and either side of the subject is a bit more balanced or it is mirrored. For example, if you see this scene, the subject is in the center and the things on the left side of the subject is almost the exact same as the things on the right hand side. Here, rule of third wouldn't be applicable. You can also do center framing for buildings or landscape or even a human. And why I centered frame myself in this framing is because there is, you know, the screen of the computer here and there is a lamp here. So if I would have moved this side, the whole scene here would look a bit more empty. And if I would have moved this side following the rule of third, then this would be a bit of empty space. So now that if I am in the center, I am kind of balancing the scene. I'm also not making one side of the frame too messy, and I'm also not leaving another side of the frame too empty. So these things you have to also keep in mind is that, am I going to follow rule of third here or am I going to do center framing? So how you can determine what framing to do is that just film yourself at different different framing options and go in the computer or go in your laptop and just tech which looks aesthetic. There is no hard and fast rule that you really have to follow this rule by heart. That's not true. Filmmaking rules, they are good, but a lot of top filmmakers, a lot of top directors, they are always breaking the rule. And some of the shots, what they take is just it just so new because they are not following any rules. So these rules are good to remember or good to know about, and then you break it. 19. Out Of Focus Shots: Now let's talk about out of focus shots. So it would look like you are out of focus and the background is in focus. And when do we use those kind of shots? Those kind of shots are used when the emphasis is not on the subject, it is mostly on the background. Or, for example, if I am looking at certain direction, then if I'm in focus, then the audience, they don't really know what am I looking at. So that time it's good to sort of blur the subject and then show the background or show where the subject is looking at to convey the story to the audience. So that's when you should be using the out of focus shots. A lot of times they use that in the movies. A lot of times, yeah, they use that in documentaries. So yeah, now when you go and watch a movie or ethlic series or any sort of series, then you would know that, Oh, actually, I know what kind of rule or what kind of framing methodology they're using. So now that we learned out of focus framing, let's move on to the next one. 20. Top Down Shots: Top down shots. Top down shots are one of my favorite shots. They take a bit of effort, but the end results is just so good. The top down shot, of course, they look like this. This can be a drone shot or it can be a shot from a camera or from your smartphone. And why the top down shot is important is it just shows the audience the subject or the environment from a really unique angle because how I look at you or how I look at things around me is just with the eye level shot. I never look things with the top down shot. So that's when if you show the audience the top down shot, then the audience can go wow that, Oh, wow, this scene actually looks like this from way above. And one way I achieve the top down shot is, of course, with the drone, but I also achieve top down shot with another equipment called a C stand. So a C stand, it looks like this. Then you have to set it up. You put a sandbag so that the camera is not going to fall. And then you either clamp your camera on the top, or you can clamp your iPhone because then it's a bit less risky because iPhones are really light and they can be attached anywhere. So a lot of times I take top down shots mostly with my iPhone because if I put my whole camera set up on a C stand, it can break or it's just really heavy. And I just love it. And sometimes I follow the rule of third on the top down shot or sometimes I just follow the center framing. It really depends on what is around me. So yeah, that was top down shot. And now let's move on to the next one. 21. Patterns And Repetitions: Patterns and repetitions. This is not a tip of how to frame a subject or how to frame a thing. It's just a general tip that whenever you're filming a city scape or a landscape or whenever you're filming yourself, always look for those patterns in the image and then take a shot according to that pattern. And that would look really nice because we have patterns like every day around us, but we don't really realize it. But if you have an eye to sort of find out that pattern in a normal day to day life shots, and then capture that, that would really make the audience go, Wow. 22. Low Angle Shot: So now that we have learned how to frame a subject, now let's talk about where should you place a smartphone or a camera to convey different emotions to the audience. So this shot is an eye level shot. So this shot wouldn't really generate a weird emotion in the audience because this is how we see things throughout the day, and this shot just looks quite average. But if you put the camera or if you put the smartphone a little bit lower and film the subject from that angle, then the subject is, of course, at a higher angle. So that time the subject looks a bit more dominant. You would see these shots in a lot of superhero movies. So yeah, if you want to convey the emotion to your audience, in your movies or in your videos that the subject is a bit more dominant in the scene, then you can use this low angle shot where you're placing the camera at a low angle and the camera is facing up at the subject. 23. High Angle Shot: And now let's talk about the high angle shot. So in the high angle shot, that's completely opposite. So here, the camera is way above, and it is filming the subject from above. So now the subject is at a lower level. So here the subject looks a little bit powerless. The subject almost looks like he or she is trapped in a frame. So yeah, when you want to convey a message through your videos, that subject is a bit more powerless, then you can use a high angle shot. 24. POV Shot: And the last shot in this section is the POV shot or the point of view shot. So here you show the audience what you are seeing as a subject. So how you can achieve this shot is really easy. You can just place the camera or a smartphone here, and then whatever you are doing at whatever angle, you just film that. So if I'm just moving my arms and if I'm doing with my arms, you show to the audience. A lot of times people have the scopomunt attached to the chest or to the head and that shows a really nice POV shot. I also take a lot of over the shoulder shot for my subjects, and that also is a POV shot because so that time the subject is kind of allowing the audience into his or her lives to show them how the life looks through their eyes. So that's why I think POV shots are they're really unique and they also are really beautiful. 25. Low Light Filming: So here what we are doing is we are filming a morning routine sequence of just me making the coffee and doing some random stuff. So first shot is a close up shot of a coffee machine. I think because the video is a bit too dark, the scenario is a bit too dark. The app is struggling to find focus, the Black Magic Cam app. So what are we going to do to increase the exposure? I would increase the ISO. Let's say to about 400. And the white balance, the image looks a bit too warm, so I would reduce the white balance and just see how it looks with my eyes. And I think, yeah, 38 50 Kelvin sounds good. I've also adjusted the focus on the button, which I'm going to be pressing. So what I would be doing is I would do a long press on the screen on the place where I need to be in focus. So you can see that it says AE and AF lock, which means auto exposure and auto focus is locked at that point. And of course, we are keeping the shutter speed locked as well because we are filming at 24 frames per second. And I would just bring my fingers in the video just to see if it's in focus or not. And this is the final shot. And in this scene, what are we going to do is we're going to be taking a macro shot. So to take a macro shot, you need to switch to the wide angle lens, the super wide angle lens, which is a 13 millimeter lens because that lens is a macro lens. And what I mean by macro lens is that you can come really close to the subject. So let's try that out. I would just change the lens, and I'll try to keep this smiley in focus. And we'll see how that looks. And sometimes, if it doesn't focus, you can just bring the camera front and back because sometimes, yeah, the camera struggles to focus when filming macro. But as soon as you find a perfect focus point, just lock the focus. So I think here I found a sweet spot where I can just keep my camera next to the coffee machine. So it is not a tripod shot, so it is just a handheld shot. So I think the video is also a little bit dark. I would increase the ISO value as well. And I would try to focus on the Smiley again. See, I lost the focus here. So yeah, there's a lot of back and forth with filming in the Black Magic CamApp. But yeah, that's the best option we have got. So I can see that it is still struggling to find the focus point, but I would keep trying. I would move the camera front and back. And then I think I can find a decent focus point now. So you see if I move the camera a bit more closer, I found a decent focus point. So now I wouldn't be moving anything. And yeah, this is what the final shot looks. And now after the shot, I just put my iPhone under on the coffee machine, and I'm just making the shot where I put the piston in the coffee machine, and this is how the final shot looks. And here I want to make a shot where the coffee is coming out of the machine. So what I would be doing is I would try to focus on the piston from the exact point where the coffee should be coming. And now here it looks like things are in focus. So I would just keep the camera stable. I can also see that you can see my fingers and the iphone in the background, so you should avoid that. But yeah, this is how the final shot looks, and I'm really making sure that everything is in focus, which I think it is. So once we are done with the coffee, now we move on to a wide angle shot in my studio. So, of course, the first shot is with all the lamps on. And of course, I put the shorter speed one or 50. I have reduced the ISO to 640. The wide balance, I have kept the same, and I want to see how it looks. Maybe I would reduce the ISO a little bit because maybe it was a bit too bright. Or let's just go to 500 and see how it looks. I can see some of the zebra lines, but I think that should be fine because here the main goal is to expose myself. I would also adjust the zebra line settings. But the main goal of this shot is to, of course, I would walk in the room, and then I would turn on the light. But of course, what we have to do first is that we have to set up the exposure according to how it is when the light is on because that would be our final shot. That's what you should also keeping in mind. Because if I set up the exposure according to the scene when the light was off, then the scene might get a bit too over lighted when you turn on the light. You have to always make sure that expose the scene according to the final shot this is how the shot looks. Yeah. And now the next shot, what I want is a close up shot of the coffee mug. So the plan is that I would just bring and put the coffee mug on the table. But what I want to do is that I want to already set up the focus on the mug so that when I put the mug, then the focus is on the mug. And when nothing is there, then all the things behind the mug is blur. Coffee mug is blur. It is struggling to find the focus, but eventually we found the focal point and then we locked the exposure and auto focus. Now let's press record. Here I would, of course, take out the coffee mug. You see that when the coffee mug is out, everything is out of focus and then the mug comes which is in focus, which it looks really cinematic. You can also see that the books, which is on the left hand side in the left corner, they are also a bit blurry in the foreground, that also adds a lot of depth. This is how the final shot looks. So here in this shot, what I want to do is I want to have a close up shot of my face or a medium shot, let's say, of me just coming and sitting on the couch and drinking coffee. So I have set up the focus on the chair where my head would be. I have locked the shutter speed to one or 50. The ISO have reduced to 200 because it is a bit bright on this part of the room. So I would just lock the auto exposure and out of focus. And, yeah, let's take the shot and see how it looks. Here the mistake, what I did was I also locked the white balance to 38 50. I should have changed it according to the scenario. And one more problem, what I have is that I have put the audoxposure auto focus to the wrong part of the screen. So you see my head is a bit more further than the point where I have locked the focus point, the focal point. But this shot still looks pretty decent. Yeah. And here in this shot, what I want to do is I want to make a shot where I want to show the audience that what am I looking at. So to do that, what you can do is you can lock the focus outside. And that's exactly what am I doing? So I'm locking the focus outside so that I am in the foreground, but I'm a bit blurry. And then it would just show to the audience that where am I looking at B outside was a bit bright, so that's why I have reduced the ISO as well. So I can see that 64 is pretty good, but I also don't want myself to be super underexposed. But yeah, let's try at 64 and see how it looks. So you can see in this shot that the focus is locked outside. So it's a really good representation of out of focus shots that I'm showing the audience, what am I looking at? So, yeah, that was the sequence of my morning routine, and I also took a wide angle shot again just to sum up the story to the audience that where I am and how the scenario looks like. So, yeah, that's how you should be filming in your house with the Black Magic Cam app. 26. Filming A Sequence Outdoors - Part 1: Recently, I went on a short camping trip, and I filmed some videos from my iPhone, and then I also screen recorded the video settings in which I have filmed everything. So what we're going to be going through here is that I would be showing you my entire process of filming a video sequence, and then how am I changing the video settings according to different scenarios that you can all learn from here? So let's just play this and then I can just walk you through what's going on. And all the videos, the final videos, they're all in the description. So if you want, you can use them for color grading or just to see how Apple log files they look. So in the first scene, what am I doing I'm just filming a wide angle shot just to establish the scene. But then I realize that it's a bit bright, so I am reducing the ISO because what we have learned is that if it's true bright, then reduce the ISR number to its lowest. If it's too dark, then you can increase the ISR number. Here what's also happening is that I'm using my ND filter, the neutral density filter in front of the iPhone. That is helping me to keep the shutter speed 1/48, which you can see here, and I have locked the shutter speed. What all things I have locked is the shutter speed at 1/48 because we are filming at 24 frames per second. We are filming with the main lens, which is the 24 millimeter. The white balance is locked as well. Usually outdoors when it's sunny, then I keep the white balance to 5,500 kelvins, of course, I'm reducing the IUSO to 80. And this is how the shot looks. So I'm just recording, still adjusting. And here I'm also making sure that the camper van is on one side, on the rule of thirds, it's not in the center, and then there would be a walking shot of me. So whatever shot you're seeing, this is color graded. So I've just converted the ApologFle to Reg 79. I would be giving you that conversion alert as well. So with one click, you can go from ApologFle to the r79 video like this. So here I'm just opening our back kitchen of the camper. So that was the first shot with the wide angle shot just to establish the scene. The second shot I want to do is a bit of medium shot, so I'm just moving the camera here. And here I would be, you know, taking out the gas stove and putting it on the kitchen shelf. So still adjusting and I'm also making sure that the kitchen shelf is on the bottom line. You can see it's not in the center. It's on the bottom line. And here, I have a feeling that the mat on this mat, it's a little bit bright because the sunlight is reflecting on it, so I am sort of twisting the ND filter because the IOI is already at its lowest. So if I twist the ND filter, then it becomes a bit more stronger sunglasses. And now you can see that now I'm seeing the mat really clear. So of course, I adjusted ND filter, and now what I'm also doing is I'm locking the focus point to here. So how do you lock it just keep pressing on the screen, and then it would show that auto exposure and auto focus, they're locked. And once I lock everything, then the focus is, of course, not going to change, and then I can place the subject, what has to come right at that point. So you can see that even if I'm going in the background, the focus is not changing because if I didn't lock it, the iPhone would quickly focus me myself. So it's also a really cool shot what people should be using in their videos is that you can sort of lock the focus at some point and then show some sort of movement in the background because that introduces a bit of curiosity in the videos. So I go take out the gas stove and then bring in the gas stove, just opening it. So there's a lot of jump cuts so I'm cutting, you know, with the action. So you see, there's a bit of motion blur now. Because I'm filming at one war 48, there's a bit of blur. It looks much nicer. Later on, I'm also going to show you some videos where I didn't use any ND filter. It doesn't look perfect. But now let's focus on this shot. So here, of course, everything was nice and good. I turned off the recording. So that was a medium shot. Now what I want to do is I want to push it a bit more close. I want to get a shot where I'm turning on the gas stove, so then you can see the fire. But I'm trying to focus on the fire point, but it's not really focusing. And it was also a bit dark, so I increased the IUSO. But I'm trying to focus there. It's not really focusing. It's focusing here. And I wanted to focus here. So then what I did was I went to this panel here because that is the focus panel, and then I changed the focus to manual focus. And here I would be dragging the focus bar. If I go a bit down, then I can see that now the focus is there. So there was one way to log the focus was to just press on the screen. The other way, if you really want precise focus, then you can just go to the focus panel here, then just toggle the switch and see for yourself where the focus should be. So I think that was really nice, and this is how the shot looks. So the gas stove turned on, but you could not see the fire because it was just too sunny. But, yeah, you can see that it looks really nice because now the focus is not changing. So that's how you can also do some shots with manual focus. And you see I'm keeping everything on the rule of third line. Nothing is in the center. So now we did a wide angle shot, the first one, then we did a medium, then we did a close up. Now we're going to jump back to the wide angle shot to show the audience what's going on, how the environment looks like and how the subject is. And what I also did was I changed the focus to Auto. You can see here. Let's go back. I changed the focus to Auto. So then you don't have to worry about the focus. And this video was a little bit bright, so I have also reduced the ISO back again. And this whole time, the ND filter is attached to the iPhone. And I'm just setting up a shot so that it looks a bit more nice. There is a bit of diagonal lines going here, and on one side of the frame is the gas stove, and I should be standing on the other side. But you see, just when I started recording, the focus was just out of place, even though it was in autofocus mode, it just goes out of play. So then I can see that it's autofocus mode, then I just tap on the screen, tap everywhere just to see if it's in autofocus if it's really in autofocus or manual focus. Now I can see that this is in auto and you can see the focus meter changing because now it's trying to focus on me. So this was just a test shot I did just to see if it's really focusing on me. So that's the thing the auto focus of the iPhones, they're pretty good. But if you have a little bit of doubt, just do a test shot and just see for yourself if it's in focus or not. So then I did that. I checked in the video. I was like, Okay, it is actually focusing. So then I press record again and then I'm filming. So this is the final shot. I'm on this side of the frame and the stove is on this side, and it looks pretty decent. And now we're going to move to some other shot. So here I want to show the grinder, so I just tapped on the grinder just to. So I didn't continuously tap. I just taped a little bit so that the focus goes there. Cause if I press it for two, 3 seconds, then it locks. If you just tap it a little bit, it shouldn't lock. You can see auto focus here, so I tap it here and then it focuses here, and this is how the shot looks. So now the focus would be tracking the grinder. So that is how the shot looks, and now I want to focus on the error press as well. So the camera is focusing on the error press, but I would just tilt it a little bit up. And this is how the shot looks. So you can see that I am blur in the background, and here the focus still is on the error press. And all the video settings are the same. I'm just change the idea to 160, but I'm just turning on and off the ND filter to reduce or increase the exposure. And then after this, there's a tricky shot. Here, what I wanted to do is take another shot where I'm focusing on the grinder and then the beans are sort of going in. So here I'm sort of adjusting the focus with manual focus bar, and then I also press on the screen. Just to make sure that my focus and exposure is locked. Oh, no, here, I didn't press on the screen. I just set up the focus with the manual focus toggle here, and I kind of yeah, I kind of had an idea that, yeah, it is in focus now. So yeah, you see this is how it looks. So if I didn't lock the focus, then it would focus on my hand. So everywhere there is a movement in the screen, there the iPhone would focus. But at this point, it is not focusing there. It is just focusing here because that's where the beans that's where the main action is happening. And then there is another shot, another one where I'm using the manual focus. So here I'm changing the focus again. But it's really difficult to see where the focus would be because I can see focus here, I can see focus here. But the coffee would be coming in the middle. And I'm also reducing the ISO because it was too bright. But I'm just bringing my fingers here you can see, just to adjust the focus because that's exactly the point where the action would be taking place. But I didn't have a reference object, so I just put my finger there, and then we know that that is the focus point. So I'm just putting the coffee in my air press, and then we are putting the water. So you see now the water stream is exactly in focus. Because if I did focus on this plane, then the water might have been a little bit blur. And this is the shot What I wanted, this one, so that the coffee just comes up and that there is smoke. Oh, yeah. That was it, and now we are doing a top head shot. Of course, if we go back, I adjusted the focus. I just pressed focus on the coffee here and now this is how the shot looks. And now we go back to the wide angle shot. I'm just keeping all the parameters the same. It is in auto focus. I would just press on the blue because it was in manual focus before at 7:02. So then I just pressed Auto and then if I go in the frame, things will change. And this is how the shot looks, where I'm kind of pressing the coffee. So here I can see that the focus is on the air press, and now here is on my fingers. So it keeps changing, but like it is on the main subject, which is myself or the airpress. So yeah, that was a sequence of me making a coffee with the iPhone in aplog. So let me give you another example in the next chapter of another sequence. 27. Filming A Sequence Outdoors - Part 2: In this section, we are filming at different focal lens, which means I'm changing the lenses in the iPhone. I'm also changing the frame rights. So let's begin and then f all makes sense. So I would just mute it. So here is just a walking shot of myself, and I have I really as low as possible, short of speed, one or 50, or you can also do 1 hour 48 or 1 hour 50. It is really up to you. And here I just wanted to show you the stabilization. So this is how the video looks after the stabilization is on. So you can see how smooth it is. And if I turned off the stabilization, then it just goes all over the place. And because I'm using the cinematic mode in the stabilization, you can do extreme, but then the black magic Camap it becomes a little bit slower. So that's why I keep the stabilization to cinematic. And, yeah, in the app, it looks like it's still shaky, but in real life, you can see it is really nice. And if you want to improve the increase the stabilization, you can do that in whatever editing software you're using. And it just looks really nice. So here you can also see I'm using the diagonal lines, which is leading up to this farmhouse. And then next I am doing, like, a logging shot. So let's hear the audio because as I told you before, the iPhones, mics, they are not the best, and it was quite windy, like, not even quite windy. It was just a little bit windy that day, and you can see how bad the audio sounds. He me myself. It's just a blogging shot, of course, all the settings are the same. Shutter speed is the same. So let's see how that looks. Now the sun is behind me. So the shot looks pretty good, but then audio is pretty bad. I've heard because whatever audio you're listening to that is from an iPhone. But after calibrating, it still looks the video quality, at least, it looks really, really beautiful. So that was the blogging shot, and now I'll just neute the screen again. This is the shot where I want to change the lenses. So I have switched to 120 millimeter lens, which is the telephoto lens. I'm trying here to keep the camera as stable as possible. And because the aperture of this lens is F 2.8 as compared to our main lens, which is F 1.8. So then the video becomes a little bit darker. So then I'm not sure if I increase the ISO. No, I didn't increase the ISO, but I should have increased the ISO maybe to 100, 120 or 150. But yeah, anyways, this is a shot, and that's the good part about filming in Apolog is that even if you filmed in a little bit less exposure, you can still change the exposure pretty easily in the post production. You can push the footage so much when it is filmed in a log format. So I'm taking another shot of this form. Everything from the Zoom lens, it just looks really pretty. And here I actually realize that it might be a little bit dark short. So then I kind of increase the ISO to 100 or I'm increasing maybe a bit more because here, if you see my histogram, it should be a little bit on the right. It shouldn't be towards the darker side. So that's what I saw. And then I sort of increase the ISO. And the more you increase ISO, you can see the change in the histogram, that is, it shifts more towards the right. And this is the final shot. So we are filming everything in the telephoto lens. And here, we have other shots of more sheeps. I am not changing any video settings, and they look pretty good. So I also tap on the screen. I'm not locking the focus, but just tapping on the sheets to, you know, adjust the focus on them, not locking it, just tapping. And now we are back at 24 millimeter lens, the main lens. So here, what I want to do is I want to change the frame rate. So what I would be doing is I would just clip, click here, the FDS which is frame rates per second and then increase it to 59.94. And when I increase it to 59.94, my shutter speed changes to 120 because that is when it's following the 180 degree rule that whatever your frame rate is, the shutter speed would be double of that, and Black Magic Cam does it automatically. And the shutter is still locked at 1:20, which is pretty good. But then the higher the shutter speed, the darker the image becomes. So we might have to increase or reduce the ISO. But let's see how the video looks. So this is all filmed in 60 frames per second. This is how the video looks in a normal speed with 60 frames per second. And if I slow it down in the inch resolve, then this is how it looks. So you can see here that, of course, I have slowed down the speed to half. So now we get a really smooth slow motion. So that is how you can film slow motion in the iPhones as well. And now I want to show you one shot here. So I'll just drag it in the timeline, and this is a shot without any ND filter. So if I just play it on full screen, you can see there's so many jitters. You can see. It's not really smooth. The boat. There's so many jitters on the screen, and that is because the shutter speed is really crazy high. And I want to also show you another video at the beach. So here I was at the beach, but I didn't bring my ND filter. So we open the Black Magic Cam app, and here I increase the shutter speed super high. But then what you can also do is that if you're not sure what the shutter speed should be, you can just tap on the screen. So if I just tap on the sand here or on the subject here, then the exposure here is a bit more balanced, but then the brighter areas, they get or lighted. You can see the zebra lines. But then if I tap here on the brighter side, then this gets a bit dark. So you have to find place in the screen, which is a balance between the brightest areas and the darkest area, you just tap there, and then Black Magic can kind of adjust the exposure according to that. And here I can see that the exposure is adjusted, but we are not following the hundred 80 degrees rule there. The frame rates should the shutter speed should be double of the frame rate. So that's why here the shutter speed is just crazy high. And I will show you the main shot. So if something is really static, then you wouldn't see those jitters. But if something is moving in the frame, then you see the jitters. So if you don't have an ND filter, if you forgot your ND filter, then try to film the shots where there's not a lot of crazy movements going on in the screen. Here we have another shot of bicycles. So we're cycling and you can see, you cannot really see with the normal eyes, but I can see that there is a lot of jitters. And even if these hairs which are flying here, there would be a little bit of blur. There would be a little bit of motion blur when the hairs are flying. But it is not because I am filming in the oro shutter speed, so the shutter speed is 1/10000 or so. The foot it, it still looks really nice. But yeah, if you want to really take it to the next level and make it look really, really cinematic, then you should be using the shutter speed. But if you're just filming a travel video just for memories or if you just want to make a casual video, you can still get away without the ND filter. And here I've just used in all these shots, I've just used just the auto exposure. So yeah, they look pretty good. And if you want to have access to all these shots, they're all in the description, so you can also play around with the color rating. 28. Color Grading - DaVinci Resolve: So in this section, I'm going to be giving you some tips on how to color grade your iPhone videos. In the first half of this chapter, I would explain you how to color grade a normal video from an iPhone. Like this video, I'm also filming from an iPhone, but I do some tweaking to make it look a little bit more professional. And once we are done figuring out how to film from a normal mode of an iPhone, then we're going to jump on to Apple Log. And now I would teach you or I would give you some tips of how to convert Apple Log videos, which is like a flat profile into cinematic videos. And I would also give you my secret ts, so you can just slap on those lots on any video editing software. And then with one click, your iPhone Appalog videos, they would just look like they're film from a professional camera. And all the colabrating I'm doing in the Mitre resolve, but the process, the mindset that you can implement on any video editing software, and if you're interested in learning the winter resolve or if you're interested in switching to the venture Resolve, which is an amazing video editing software and a color wedding software, I have published tons of classes on the Winter Resolve, where I teach from scratch to absolute beginners, how to edit videos or how to color grade, how to get that cinematic look in the winter resolve. Because if I start teaching that now, this class would already be for 5 hours long. So I don't want to waste your time if you are not a DaventreRsolve user, but if you are denture resolve user then I'll put the link of all the classes in the description, and really I would recommend them to check it out. But anyways, now let's jump in the inch resolve. And some of the things. So this footage, what you see, it is shot in a normal picture profile in just a normal camera mode. Like, what I'm filming now is there's no video settings, no black magic Cam app. It's just recording from the normal camera app. So first thing what I notice when I film from an iPhone is the footage is a little bit sharp. You can still see those blur because it is filmed from the main camera which has pretty good quality. What I usually do is reduce or increase the softness in the image, because I found what it does is that it kind of introduces those artificial sharpness. So if I just reduce the sharpness here, not too much, then this footage already looks like it is short. Yeah, on a professional camera. So I've reduced the sharpness a little bit. And then what I also do is I kind of increase the contrast a little bit or reduce the brightness. So first thing, what I would do is reduce the brightness a little bit and then increase the darks and increase the shadow. So I would just increase the contrast of the entire image, and that gives me this really nice image. T I just turn it on and off. So this image was also fine, but, yeah, it's really subjective color grading. But the first tip is that you should reduce the sharpness of the image. Like it comes out, the skin tones, it is just really amazing from the iPhone. So I don't even think I had to do anything in here. But I can maybe show you some other example where I have film from an iPhone, and it is a normal picture profile, and that we can do some tweaking in. So let's say this image. So I have this image, what we filmed in my backyard. So I'll just import in the software so you see how nice and cinematic it looks. Here, I can, of course, increase the saturation a little bit and sort of bring that blacks down. So blacks in any video editing software would be named as black. In the inter resolve it is called lift. So I'm just bringing the lift down, just increasing the contrast in general. So if you increase the contrast, then the picture, it just looks a bit more bright, a bit more punchy. There's look at the difference what we achieved. I just increase the saturation a little bit and increase the contrast. Of course, if you're filming in the normal mode, first step is to reduce the sharpness of an image. Second step is to increase the contrast that you can do by reducing the black and increasing the exposure of the image. See if I scroll further as well, look at how nice it looks. If I go full screen this before, this is after. So this already looks like it is shot on a professional camera. But yeah, there are so many lots and so many filters that I would provide you that you can use on iPhone footage to make them look good. So if I go in my Luts panel, I have this Rec 79 lots, which I can just put it on the iPhone. You can just try just hover around the lots and see which one is nice. I usually like the lot ten. It gives that really nice and summer lives. You just one click, it looks so cool. In three steps, you can get good videos when you're filming in normal picture profile. First one, produce the sharpness. Second one, increase the contrast, and third one, use any type of lot, and that would just change the but if you want to collaborate everything from scratch, I would really recommend my collaborating course, which is just in the mint reserve. So if you're the mint reserve user, consider yourself lucky. And I'll put all the description of the class in the description below. So now let's jump on and edit the epilogue videos. So what is an epilogue, what I showed you before is it is just a footage which is a little bit desaturated. So the first step when we use any sort of log photos or videos is that, first step is to convert them into r79 picture profile. And reg 79 is this picture profile, which looks normal to our eyes. So how do you do that? So in Da Vinci or in any other video rating software, how people do the Rec 79 conversion is with a lot or with a filter. And that filter should be the first thing you should be doing when you're collaborating the Apple Log videos. So I have some of the filters, what I've given to you. So some of them are named this one. One of the most important filter is base lot Apple Log primary. So this I've gotten from Apple website, and it does wonders. So let's check it out before and after. So this is the full screen. This was how the footage looked before. This is after. I can tell that the footage is a little bit desaturated, which is a demerit of this lot. But of course, because we filmed in log, because we filmed in the best video settings, you can always just increase the exposure. So I'm just increasing the exposure by changing the gain of the video. I can increase the exposure. Here you can see I can also increase the shadows. So here you can see. Just with one click, I changed the exposure, and of course, we have transformed the video into a normal looking picture profile. And this already looks really nice. That's the good part about iPhone cameras is that the video quality, what they produce, if it's filmed in a really good light is just so satisfying or so good. And this can already a video for any sort of YouTube log or any for anything. So yeah, apples they are really getting better the iPhone cameras. Let's do the same step on this. So if you don't know what you can do in the winter resolves, if you just go grab still, then you go to Gallery, then you can just put that same setting on the next videos. Going a bit fast because this is not the winters all color green Tutorio. This is a, just how to get beautiful videos, beautiful color grading from iPhones, and that's what I'm just giving you some tips. So first thing, what we did here was converted the video. So of course, that's the first step. Second step is you can change the white balance because I can feel that here video looks a little bit pinkish because maybe we would have chosen the wrong white balance when we were filming. I would just move it towards greens and here also, I would just move it a little bit towards the blue. And this is how it looks after we change the white balance. It's a really subtle change. And then the third one is, of course, increase or reduce the exposure. So here I can see that the exposure here, it's a little bit dark, outside is a little bit bright. So maybe I'll try to increase the exposure a little bit and here reduce the contrast. You can already see our video looks so nice and punchy after we have converted to a Rec 79 video. And after that, if you feel that the footage is a little bit desaturated, you can increase the saturation as well. There is a really advanced way of increasing the saturation in the venter resolve, but in other video editing softwares, you can just change the saturation like how you would usually do. So sometimes the footage, what comes out of a Blog, that is not the most saturated, but if you like that saturated look, you can always do that. So how you do saturation in the winter is always. Let's do here exposure. Just label note how you do saturation in the winter is always. You go or space, then you go HSV, and then you go to Gama sorry channels. You go disable Channel one, disable Channel three, and then now you can go to gain Gamma or lift and increase it, and then the exposure changes. So if I go full screen and this is before, this is after. So you can see that there's a bit of colors now popping in the video. So we see how nice it looks. So let's do this saturation. So all the notes went down. So this exact same step you can follow in any video editing software. And then, lastly, if you want to put any lot from our Rec 709 collection, you are welcome to do so. So if I just or the lots, hang on I will just disable the note. This looks good. The ten is really my favorite, but for the sake of video, let's just try this b799. And what you can also do is let's go to the nodes. You can increase the intensity or the opacity of these lots. So you don't have to use the lots at 100%. If you just use it so say 50%, then you can see how nice it looks. And this video, we shot just in my studio, just here, and you see how nice it looks. So this was before Epilogue. This is after. Like, you see how nice and cinematic and pleasant it looks. So yeah, with just a few clicks, you can achieve those beautiful looks. So what I would do I would just grab a still from this. And I'll try to paste this on this video. So this was near Amsterdam. Let's go to color grading, and let's paste it. So, yes, we have pasted the setting, it looks really good. In my opinion, the exposure is a little bit dark, so I would just increase the exposure a little bit. You see how nice it looks. So this is how the video was before. This is after. So yes, and when you're filming in Appolog, you don't need to reduce the softness because it's already quite good. It's already quite soft, the videos which comes out of Appolog. So yeah, few steps. The first step is to convert the video from Apolog to Rec 79. Second step is to balance the white balance to make it look or to go for the look what you desire. Third step, you can change the contrast by changing the blacks and the exposure and the whites, and then fourth step, you change the saturation, like how we just did in the winter resolve or you can change the saturation in your video editing software. Sometimes it's not really needed to change the saturation just because I've told you don't have to do it. Sometimes, and most of the times in my experience, it is needed. So I do that and then lastly, you put the lot whatever lot you want. And let's check out this video. This we filmed when we just went to the camping. I would just get rid of the audio. Let's keep this as a hero frame. So here, what I would be doing is I would just go to lots and I would convert the Apple log lot, but I've also provided you with some other conversion lot. So the lot I gave you, that is from Apple official website, but I've also a lot to convert the Sony log, my professional cameras log videos. Rec 79 and that also works really good with iPhones, surprisingly. So what I would do is that I have provided you with this lot, Sony, as log three, as C and C, like this one I have provided you. If you just double click on that, Look at this here video. This was before this is after. But I think this video still needs some work. I wouldn't change the wide balance now because I don't really know how exactly it is looking yet the final video. So let's say this is the frame. Here, what I would be doing is I would have to reduce the exposure of the entire image because sometimes that happens with Apologe you are shooting and you can film by mistake in a little bit over exposed setting. So with any videoc software, you can find these curves, and what you can do, you just pull it from the center. So if you pull it from the center, just a little bit, you don't have to go all the way down just a little then it makes the video look a bit more professional, a bit more softer, a bit more neutral. And here I can see that I don't really need to change the wide balance. The wide balance is pretty good. What I do need is to increase the saturation. So you can change the saturation, how you want. In your video editing software, I would do how I usually do in the vent resolve. And here, if I just increase the can, so you can see if I increase the saturation, then I see that video the footage may be a little bit yellow, or I think it is fine because it is summer, it looks pretty good. Look at the skin tone, it looks really nice. And I think this setting can go really nice on this footage as well. It is already here on this footage as well. Calorie lets hero. I think this video is a little bit a bit more green because I can see the road was when I saw the road was white or gray. So maybe it needs a little bit of pink in the video. And maybe a little bit of blue. So you can go full screen. This was before, this is after. So you can see these whites on the road, the stripes. They were a little bit greenish. Now we have changed it to white looking. So yeah, that's how you can colobrate an epilogue. And what I can also do here I think, of course, it's good, what we did with the graph, but I would change it, and I would just reduce the blacks. See if I just bring in more contrast in the image, let's see how that looks. So I think, in my opinion, this looks good as well. Yeah, so can you believe it that this was shot on an iPhone? That's crazy. And now, if you want to put any lot, of course, we can do it. So I've also provided some of my custom lots, what I have made by myself. So let's try those as well, and let's see how that looks. If we go to just everyday lot, look at this with one click, you can get those cinematic look with your iPhone videos. This is crazy, right? Like, and let's try the everyday, too. That's a bit more green. See, that's the thing with lots. Not all the lots go on all the images. Cinema blues, that is a bit more dramatic, a bit too much, in my opinion. But if something is a bit too much, you can always reduce or increase the opacity. But every day we want, it looks really good. So maybe we do grab still, and we can use that on some other footage. But yeah, if you really want to master video editing, do check out my Clagrading class. Look at this video, how nice it looks. And most of the people cannot even tell that it was shot on an iPhone. But before collaborating, I really, really pressurize you to film in the right video setting because if it's filmed in the wrong white balance, if it's filmed in wrong exposure, it can be a pain. It can be really a pain to collaborate these videos. Yeah, I have given you tons of Aplelog videos in the description. So you can collaborate. And if you have any questions, please please let me know. 29. Thank You: That you have a bit of idea of how to congregate iPhone videos, we are coming towards the end of our class. And I have a request from you. If you like this class, go to the comments or go to the description or go to the reviews panel and really just tell me what did you like about this class. And if there needs to be some improvement, please let me know as well, because the more good reviews are there in the class, the more students sign up, so that helps us as the teachers as well. And one more thing. I also want you to make your iPhone videos like these. So if you have filmed a video from your recent trip after watching this class, just make a 32nd to 1 minute compilation and put that in the project section. I would be really happy to see what you have learned. And of course, you would never run into a problem unless you try it. And when you are going to film your videos or edit your projects, you would run into problems. I'm sure I would also. Then please feel free to ask me any questions regarding iPhone videography. Yeah, I think I've given enough information to you about making high quality videos from an iPhone. So yeah, go to the project section, check out the project, and check out all the raw videos and folders and lots, whatever I provided with this class. I hope you enjoyed this class and all you in the next one.