Fotografia do iPhone 14 Pro

1. Introduction: [MUSIC] Hello, and welcome to this course on iPhone 14 Pro photography. My name is Ben Nielsen, I'm immediate design educator and I'll be your instructor for this course. In this course, we're going to be diving into everything having to do with photography on the iPhone 14 Pro. It used to be back in the day that taking a photo on your iPhone was a really simple process. You would open up the camera app, hit the shutter button, and it gets your photo. It can still be that way if you want it to be. But over the years, Apple has gone ahead and improve the physical camera and the camera app in many ways that have given photographers more control over their images, but also made it more complicated. They've added multiple lenses to the camera. They've also enlarged the sensors and widened the apertures so that we're able to get better photos and also have more manual control over the photos that we get. All of this can make it a little bit more complicated though. In this course, we're going to break down everything there is to know about photography on the iPhone 14 Pro, so that you can choose which features are important to you, and use those as you're taking your pictures and ignore the ones that you feel aren't going to help you to get better images. What do you need to take this course? Well, you're going to get an iPhone 14 Pro if you want to get everything out of this course. If you have an iPhone 14, some of these things will be applicable to you, but not everything since it doesn't have as many lenses on the camera and it doesn't have all the features including that 48-megapixel sensor that was added into the iPhone 14 Pros. The same is true if you have something like an iPhone 13 Pro or 12 Pro, you'll get a lot out of this course because a lot has remained the same, but not everything will be applicable to you. What you don't need is any prior experience with photography. You don't need to already be a photographer, you don't need to know how to use something like a DSLR camera or even I've done a lot of phone photography before because we're going get into all of the details in this course, so you can start as a complete beginner. Now you might be wondering, well, what will you cover in this course? Bend you keep saying everything. Well, that's because there is a lot to cover, but we're going to cover all of the different parts of the camera app and the cameras. We're going to cover what all of these different lenses do on the back of the camera and also the camera on the front, the selfie camera. We're going to cover the different shooting modes you can take pictures in, we're going to cover the different settings that might be in the camera app or even hidden in the settings app in the iPhone. We're going to cover all of that so you know what to turn on and what to turn off for your particular photographic style. We're also going to cover things like how to use portrait mode to be able to take pictures of people or animals and we're going to cover how to go out and take a landscape shot. We're also going to cover how to use nightmare to take shots in darker areas or even of the stars. There's going be a lot that we get into in this course. Buckle up and get ready because it's going to be a lot of fun and we're all wanting to learn a lot. For now, your assignment is to go to the discussion tab in this course, drop in there, just introduce yourself to the class. Let us know how long have you been doing photography or how short you've been doing photography if you're just getting started, and then tell us something that you're excited to learn about as you take this class. Everything works better when we're all able to learn together. Please take your time to go into the discussion tab, introduce yourself, and of course, throughout this class, you can ask any questions that you have there because I'm more than happy to be answering those questions and helping you on your photographic journey. There's so much to cover, so let's go ahead and get started. In the next video, we'll talk about the project for this course. [MUSIC] 2. Project: [MUSIC] Doing a project while you're learning a new skill really helps you to be able to develop that skill. Please do take the time to complete the project for this course as we're going through it, that will really help you to solidify the ideas in your head and be able to understand the concepts better as you do them yourself. The project is pretty simple, and if you follow along with each video, you'll have it done in no time. Don't worry about it being something difficult or complex or something that you can't do it, it's totally doable by anybody taking this course. The project is to complete a small portfolio of images. You're going want to do six images for the project for this class. The first one is going to be take a picture of something using portrait mode. That can be a person or an animal, but you want to use portrait mode and be able to become comfortable using that mode on your iPhone. The second thing is going to be to take a landscape shot using the super wide angle lens on the phone. That is a really great lens for taking in a really good Vista and we'll talk more about how to do that as we go through this course. The third thing that you're going to want to do is get a close-up of something using the macro mode. The macro mode is going to utilize that really wide angle lens to get super close in and get the details of something really small. We'll show you how to do that in this course. Make sure you include one of those in your image portfolio. Forth, you're going want to go ahead and use the night mode on your camera to take something in a low light situation or in the dark. That could be just a low-light situation indoors, or it could be something like the stars using the long exposure that we'll talk about in this class. But make sure that you do something using that night mode. Fifth, you want to take a picture of yourself using the front-facing camera. This will allow you to learn the ins and outs of working with the front-facing camera, which honestly is a camera that gets used a lot on your phone. It's really good to know what's there. Lastly, for your sixth picture, you want to do one thing that's going to be your creative expression. You can take a picture of anything you want using any mode you want on your iPhone 14 Pro, but just make sure that it's something that you feel expresses your creativity. Now remember this is about photography, so you don't need to worry about any of the video modes for this class. That would be too much to cover in one course, so we'll cover the video modes, in a different course. Just focus on the photography aspects of your phone camera for this class. In addition to not going over filming, we also won't be going over editing in this class, you don't need to feel any pressure to edit your photos at all. Just take them straight as they are and go ahead and upload them into the project section for this course. Now one thing that you'll want to note is that Skillshare doesn't work well with certain file types and we'll go over this in the settings video, but your camera by default wants to take things in what's called the HEIF file type, and that doesn't always play well on the internet. We're going to want to change that to most compatible, which will then take it in the JPEG format. You don't have to use that all the time and we'll talk more about it in the video for settings. But for this class you want to take those pictures as JPEGs, so you don't have to worry about converting them, or editing them in order to upload them. When you do go to upload your pictures into your project, make sure that you upload them into the body section. Sometimes people get confused and they try and upload them into the thumbnail. But that thumbnail can only hold one image and it normally crops it so that you can't really see the whole thing. You can put one of your images in the thumbnail, but make sure that all of them are included in the body. Make sure that every single one is in the body. Well, another thing to note when you're uploading a project to Skillshare is that sometimes Skillshare takes a second to process it. It might take a couple of minutes and it might look like nothing is happening, but eventually your photo will appear. Just makes sure that you wait a moment and let it show up. Remember that if you have any questions or run into any problems along the way with your project, you can put those in the discussion tab, and I'm happy to answer those and help you out along your photographic journey. As you're learning something new, there's no shame in having questions because of course it's something that is new to you. One would expect that you would have some questions as you're trying to learn it. That's just part of the learning process. In the next video, we're going to go ahead and we're going to talk about the four lenses or cameras that are found on your iPhone 14 pro [MUSIC]. 3. Cameras: [MUSIC] The first thing that you probably want to know about when getting started with iPhone photography is what is the deal with all of this going on the back of the phone? There's so much going on back there. As you can see, there are three different big circles here. Each of those are a different lens. Now, it is important to note that we call those lenses, but in actual fact, they are each a different camera. They're each a separate camera. Now, why is that important? That's important because each one is going to have its own aperture and its own sensor. Those are going to vary by lens. When you get into the more advanced photography, you want to be aware of those things and not just think of them as just lenses, even though we're going to refer to them like that, because they all feed into one camera app. While we're talking about how many cameras they are on the iPhone, it's important to note that there is another one right here on the screen. That front-facing camera is also a camera. It also has its own focal length, aperture, and sensor. It gets used a lot. It's important to not forget it. Let's go through each camera here on the iPhone and learn a little bit about what it is. I want you to know that I'm going to talk about a lot of numbers here. Those may be useful to you if you are coming from traditional photography with a camera then those numbers might mean something to you. If this is your first foray into more advanced photography, then don't worry if the numbers don't all make sense. There are a lot of numbers involved in photography. When you first start out, they don't all need to make sense to you. It's important that you just get the general concepts. Don't worry if the numbers feel a little bit overwhelming to you right now, that's totally normal as you're starting to photography. It felt that way for me when I first started, and it feels that way for everyone but because it does make a difference in the way the cameras perform, I am going to go into the numbers just a little bit. I'm going to do my best to keep it simple so you understand it on a basic level what all the different numbers mean, but not go into the scientific explanations for how all those numbers are reached. I don't even know those so, I wouldn't be able to do that even if I wanted to. Let's start here with this lens at the bottom because that is the main camera. That's the one that will normally default to when you open up the camera app. The field of view is actually the equivalent of what we call a 24 millimeter. All that means is it's fairly wide. It can capture a shot fairly close to what the human eye sees. The sensor behind this camera is the 48 megapixel sensors. That is the biggest and most detailed of all of the sensors on this phone, which means that it will capture the highest quality images of any of the cameras. If you want the very best, the very highest quality in the picture that you're taking, that one will do it but each of the cameras has different strengths based on its focal length and aperture and that thing. You don't want to just use the main camera constantly, but you do want to be aware that it will give you the highest quality images because it is that 48 megapixel sensor. The aperture on this camera is the equivalent of an F1.8. All you need to know about that is it means that the whole, the aperture on the camera, is fairly large compared to the sensor that's behind it. This will make it better for capturing images in low light and also will give it a natural depth of field without using portrait mode. It can create a natural separation between the subject and the background, just because that sensor is bigger and that aperture is wider. This main camera will generally be represented by the 1X in your camera app. We'll see more about that in the next video. Next, let's move on to this middle camera. That middle camera is the ultra-wide angle. It's the equivalent every 13 millimeter. If you think of 24 millimeter as being the normal field of view, 13 millimeter is significantly wider than that. It lets you capture a lot more of the scene but of course, there's a little distortion as you go wider and wider. If you're used to thinking about field of view by degrees, a 13 millimeter is about 120-degree field of view. Now, this camera has a 12-megapixel sensor. This is the standard sensor size. It does a very good job of capturing images but of course, it's 12 compared to 48 on the main. The aperture on here is 2.2. All that means is that that aperture, it's a little bit smaller compared to the sensor than the one on the main camera. That was F1.8 and this is an F2.2. F-stops and all of these different numbers can get really confusing so don't be too concerned about them. This ultra-wide camera will generally be represented as the 0.5 button on your camera app. Going out to a 0.5 from the 1X. Now let's talk about this top camera here. This is your telephoto lens. All that means is think of it as your zoom lens. It's the one that's going to get in nice and close to your subject. It's the equivalent of a 77 millimeter lens. Think of it as going from 24, which is fairly wide to 77, which is much more narrow. That's going to zoom it insignificantly. This one is another 12 megapixel sensor, but the sensor is not quite as large as the one on the ultra-wide. It doesn't capture quite as much light, even though it captures the same number of pixels. That doesn't mean this telephoto lens will capture the least quality of any of these back camera lenses. That doesn't mean it's bad. It just means it will have the least amount of quality of any of the lenses on the back. The aperture on this is an F2.8. It's going to be a little bit smaller than the one on the ultra-wide and fairly significantly smaller than the one on the main camera. Lastly, we have the one on the front, the one inside of the dynamic island, the front-facing selfie camera. This, of course, is the camera that is used to scan your face to open up the phone and the one you're going to use to take selfies when you want to get yourself in the picture at arm's length. It has a field of view that's roughly equivalent to 23 millimeters. So very close to the regular main camera and just slightly wider than that. It does give you the option to come in or go out a little bit, not as an optical thing, but just as a crop because it is fairly wide. It's another 12 megapixel sensor. Right there in line with the ultra-wide and the telephoto, same number of megapixels but it is the smallest sensor because it is packed there into the front. It will capture the least quality of any of the cameras on the phone. The aperture here is an F1.9 though. It can do some depth of field and it can be used for portrait mode, which we'll see in a later video. Now that we've learned all about the specs on all of these different cameras, I just want to give you a word of caution again. Don't worry too much about getting the highest quality. All of these cameras are good. Don't just go and just shoot with that main camera all the time. Each of these cameras has different strengths and weaknesses. The more you practice with them, the more you'll learn which ones work in which environments. This really is a matter of practicing and not just go into that 1X and using it every single time. It's good to know here that generally speaking, that main cameras, 48 megapixel sensor, will actually be bent down to 12. All that means is it takes four pixels and it turns them into one pixel. This allows it to capture a lot more light in each pixel and reduce the size of the overall image. While it is 48 megapixel sensor, it's not always capturing a 48 megapixel image. I think that's enough about all of these numbers in different specs. Let's go ahead and in the next video, we'll learn about the settings that we can set up for our camera so that we can get ready to actually shoot. I know there's a bit of prep work here, but we'll get everything ready and then we'll be able to actually start taking pictures. 4. Settings: Before we head into the actual camera app here, where we can actually take pictures, I want to go into the settings on your iPhone first so that we can make sure that we're all doing the same things here and we know what settings we can change on the phone. Now, I know it's a little interesting to have the settings being a separate place from the app itself. That's just how the iPhone deals with a lot of things. They put a lot of the settings all in one place. Let's go ahead and look at the settings. Make sure that you go into the Settings app. Then you just have to scroll down until you find camera. Go ahead and click on camera. Here, we find a bunch of different options that we can go through and deal with. The first one is format, and this one is really important. When you click on format, you're going to have a couple of different options here. This first one under camera capture is going to determine what types of images your phone takes. So you can see you have the option for high efficiency, and you have the option for most compatible. Now, I'll cover more about these in a bonus video. For right now, I just want you to go ahead and switch it to most compatible. High-efficiency takes pictures in the HEIF format and most compatible is going to take them in the JPEG format. For this class, we want it to be in most compatible so that you can easily share your project. A good thing to know here is that this will also change the way your phone captures videos, taking it from HEVC to H.264, which is a more compatible video type. Now, all of this means that it will take up more space on your phone, so you may not want to do that all the time. But for this class, for finishing up your project, just do it this way and that will make it less confusing because you'll just be dealing with JPEG images. Next, we go down to photo capture. This allows us to turn on the Apple ProRAW option. You can see that I have that turned on, go ahead and turn that on as well. We're going to talk more about what Raw photos are in another video. But for now, just turn it on because you're going to need it. This will not make every picture be taken in the Apple ProRAW format, but it will make it so that you have the option to take those photos, below that you'll see ProRAW Resolution. Go ahead and tap on that and you can see you can choose between 12 megapixels and 48 megapixels. This is where I'm talking about how the camera normally bins that 48 megapixel sensor into a 12 megapixel image. That's okay most of the time, but you won't get as much latitude in editing. So you can set this to 48 megapixels if you plan to edit your Raw images. If you don't plan to do a lot of editing to them, just some minor edits, go ahead and leave it at 12 megapixels. If you can see what it says below it, it tells you how big these files will be. These are much bigger than a normal JPEG file. A 12 megapixel Raw image will be about 25 megabytes, whereas a 48 megapixel raw image will be about 75 megabytes. To compare that to a JPEG, a JPEG will be normally between 3-5, maybe seven megabytes. So these are significantly larger, and of course, the 48 megapixel ones are really big, so it has to be worth it to you to take it in them. So I'm going to leave mine in 48 megapixels for now because if I shoot in Raw, I'm going to want to edit it. I won't shoot Raw all the time. We'll talk more about Raw on the other video, but just know this is where you can come to change that. Do make sure that you have the Raw turned on. Now of course, that resolution setting for proRAW will only apply to the main sensor because it's the only one that can take 48 megapixels. All of the other cameras will be set to 12 megapixels RAW by default, they always take 12 megapixel images, whether they're taking JPEG or Raw, but the Raw files will always be larger because they contain more information. The last option here under formats is related to video, so we won't talk about that in this course. That's not important for what we're going to do. You can go ahead and hit the back button up in the top-left corner to get out of here. The next four settings here in this are also related to video, so we can skip past those record video, record slow-mo, record cinematic, and record stereo sound. We don't need to talk about those here. The next option will take us to a new page. If we hit Preserved Settings, we're going to see a bunch of different toggles. These are on-off toggles for different things that happen in the camera app. Essentially, this allows you to say, hey, I want these settings to stay the same even if I close out of the camera app. For example, the top one is camera mode. If you turn that on, whatever mode you were in will be retained the next time you open the camera app. If you switch to like panorama mode, then you leave the app and then you come back, it will still be in panorama mode, whereas normally, it would default back to normal photo mode at the one x zoom. So there's a bunch of these different things, creative controls that's going to choose whether or not you have filters and that thing. Macro control that lets you take pictures really close up and we'll talk more about that so you can leave that on if you want to preserve that setting mode throughout your exposure adjustment, you may make an adjustment to your exposure to make it lighter or darker. Wants to know, do you want that kept? Night mode, you want night mode kept on when you leave the app, or do you want it to go off in its default? Portrait zoom will determine if you leave the app while you're in portrait mode, will keep the same zoom level you were at or will return to the normal zoom level. Action mode is for video. We don't have to worry about that. Apple ProRAW, this is what we talked about before. This will just determine whether or not ProRAW stays on when you leave the app. Now all of these can be toggled on or off depending on what you want to have happen. Live photo isn't the last option in the list that determines whether or not it will preserve it. You can see the ones that I have on here are portrait, zoom and live photo, the others I don't feel like I need to leave on because I can remember to switch between modes or turn those settings on and off when I'm taking a picture. I don't want to accidentally leave ProRAW because I don't want everything to be taken in proRAW because it will take up lots of room on my phone. There's just a bunch of settings here. You can customize this to whatever you want it to be. It's just important that you know it's here in the settings app right now so that if you want to make adjustments to this, you can down the road. Let's hit the top left corner to go back out again. The next one is a simple toggle whether or not you want to use the volume up button for burst photos. The volume buttons will always take a picture when you push them down. But if you turn this setting on, then the volume up button and we'll go into burst. Now, we'll talk about burst later in another video, but that's a mode where it takes many pictures in rapid sequence. You can leave that on if you find yourself needing to shoot action a lot. The next two settings are not really important for taking photos. For different functions of the cameras, scanning QR codes and scanning texts, these are both really useful functions. They're just not relayed to actually taking photos. You can choose to leave those on or off as you desire. I would leave them on most of the time unless you find them bothering you while you're actually trying to do photography. Scrolling down here, we find some composition settings. The grid, I have that turned on that sets up a rule of thirds grid. That will help you to compose your photo. I think that's a good thing to have on. You can choose whether you'd like that on or not. The next setting is to mirror the front camera. The front camera can be flipped so that it is mirrored. The front camera is normally flipped when you're looking at it and then it flips it back when you take the photo. But if you want to mirror it, you can turn this on. The last setting in this composition group is viewed outside of the frame. Basically, what this will do is it will allow you to see outside of the frame using a another camera lens. If I'm on the main camera, it will use the ultra-wide lens to show me what would be outside of the frame. This setting can be useful if you want to know, oh well, I could capture a better photo if I went a little bit wider. Generally, I think it's useful to have that one on, but if you find it annoying, you just come back here into the settings and turn it off. Down here, we then see an option for photographic styles. We can click on that and we can get some options for different styles. These are essentially a type of filter for your camera. I don't like to use these because I want to handle all of this stuff editing in post. If down the road you decide that there's a style here that you really like, then you can go ahead and you can set it up here and you can set to use that photographic style. I'm going to leave it on standard for now. The next thing is to prioritize faster shooting. This basically says, if you are rapidly pressing the shutter button trying to take images fast, it's going to prioritize that over quality. Remember, when this iPhone camera takes a picture, it actually takes a bunch of pictures, fast, stacks them together and does some image processing on them to get the best photo possible. Now, if you prioritize faster shooting, it won't do as much of that when you're trying to press the shutter button quickly. I think it's worth having that turned on because generally if you're pressing the shutter button quickly is because you're trying to capture some action and you want that to be going fast, it's more important to you to capture the action then to capture with the best photo. Lens correction is another good option to have on. Remember, when you use that ultra-wide cameras, it's going to capture a really big field of view, but it's going to be distorted. The lens correction will do some correction to that right off the bat so that it doesn't look so distorted. Macro control. You need to turn this on for this class. I think it's good to have on generally, because that allows you to see when macro mode is coming on and choose whether you want it on or off. It will only appear when you're getting close to a subject. But then, you'll get a little button, which we'll see when we talk about this in a future video. But that button will let you toggle macro mode on or off. That is it for the settings, there are a lot of them there. So hopefully, this video was helpful to you and not too boring. But go ahead and make sure that your settings are set up the way that they need to be for this course. Make sure that you have your Raw turned on and make sure that you have your compatibility set to most compatible so that you are taking the JPEG photos. That's basically all you need to know about the settings. In the next video, we're finally going to get into the camera app and start learning how the interface is set up there. 5. Interface: In this video, we're going to be looking at the camera app. Now, my phone is set up in a tripod and I've set it to be in the portrait or vertical orientation just because I think that that is how you will use your camera a lot of the time, so I want you to know where everything is in that mode. Now, obviously, this will make it so that it doesn't take up much of the video space here on Skillshare because it's a horizontal space. So just bear with me because I think it'll be more useful if you see it in this mode. Now, I have it set up on a tripod here so that it won't jitter around too much as I tap things, but it may move a little bit, so just bear with that. So one thing to note is, just like I said, we're in vertical orientation here. If you put it in horizontal orientation, some of the buttons will flip. So especially the ones that are circular or square, those will flip, whereas the ones that are rectangular will stay how they are. you'll see that if you flip your phone to one side or the other. Now, let's go around the interface here, starting in the top left. The first icon is the flash toggle. So it looks like a little lightning bolt. Tapping this will cycle between having the flash on auto like this or off like that. When it's an auto, it will trigger whenever the phone thinks that it is dark enough. If it's off, then it will never trigger the flash. Now, I always leave this off because I don't like to use the flash. The flash on the iPhone can travel very far, it's not very good, and it tends to annoy people who are around you when you're taking photos, so I don't recommend using the flash. It's much more useful as a flashlight than it is as an actual camera flash. Next to the flash will sometimes appear the night mode options. So I'm going to go ahead and turn this light off to trigger night mode. When I do that, you'll see the little moon phase appear over there and that is night mode. Now, this you can, of course, tap to toggle off or have it be on auto, just like the flash. But again, it will only appear when it gets dark enough to actually use night mode. I normally leave night mode on because I want it to come on whenever it's needed. Next, we have this little arrow. Now, this is a little bit confusing, but when you tap the arrow, a little secret menu actually opens at the bottom of the screen. This is where you can get further controls on some of the things onscreen and also access some settings that are only found here. We will go into more detail on this at the end of the video, so for now, I will close it. Next on the right, you see the RAW photo control. Of course, this is only here if you turn it on in settings like we did in the last video. This is just an on-off toggle. When it's on, you will take photos in RAW. When it's off, it will take photos in JPEG or a GIF depending on what your settings are set to. Next, you're going to find the last icon on the right is the live photos icon. It looks like some concentric circles. We will talk more about live photos in their own video, of course. For now, just know that this is a toggle that can turn them on or off. That's on and you saw the little live come up there, and that's off. I will turn this on or off depending on what I am doing. Now, let's move down into this viewfinder area, the main area where you can see the picture that you're going to take. Essentially, what happens in the main viewfinder, the part that's lit up, that is the picture that you will take when you hit the shutter button. For me, you can see that I also have these rule of thirds lines because I turn that on in the composition settings in the last video. You can also see outside the corners of the bright's part. You can see the extended frame. I also turn that setting on so that's using the wider camera to show you what could be there if you went to a wider shot. If you tap anywhere in the viewfinder like this, it will change that to the focus. It will start focusing in that area. Now, you can see that mine has then gone over and focused on the text because that text mode is active. But if I want to focus down here, I can just tap there and it will focus down there. You can see it has highlighted the wheel on the van there. Once you've tapped somewhere, you can actually adjust the exposure, that little sun by sliding up or down. It doesn't have to be on the sun, it can be anywhere on the screen. But I can brighten it up, and see that blooming there as I brighten it, or I can darken it down. You see that getting dark. So you can do a little manual exposure adjustment once you've tapped to set the focus. At the bottom of the viewfinder, you will find the buttons to change the lenses. So 0.5 is the ultra-wide, 1 is the main. Then we have this other option, which is 2, and you might be thinking, what is that 2? Well, this is actually a fake lens. It doesn't exist as a separate camera on the phone. Instead, it is a 2X zoom on the main camera. It's taking just the middle 12 megapixels of that 48-megapixel camera. Now, this isn't my favorite because it's actually cropping the image. But it is useful sometimes when you just want to be able to compose your image right there. But of course, you can always take it on the main and then crop it down manually and post instead of having it digitally cropped here. Next, you have the 3 which will of course, zoom it all the way in and actually switch to that telephoto camera. Now, this one is not as good in low light, so it might look a little bit grainy here in this image. Let's go back to 1. If you slide your finger across the different zoom levels, you will get this zooming interface, this little wheel. That's more for video than it is for photo because it's not very useful for photo, but I just want you to know that it's there in case you accidentally do this. You don't want to get caught between any of these options because then you're going to have a digital crop on it and your image won't be as crisp. It's best to just tap them between it because you don't need any smooth zooming in a photo. There's another secret control here in the viewfinder area, which is macro mode. You have to have this turned on in the settings like we did last time, and then you need to get close enough to something for the macro mode to toggle. So I'm going to put my hand out here, get close and you can see the little flower appear there in the corner. So I can turn that off to turn off macro mode and things get fuzzy. Turn it on and things remain crisp. But you have to be close enough for that to trigger, if you aren't close enough, then it just won't do anything at all. We will talk a lot more about this macro mode in its own macro video. Moving on down, you're going to find the mode slider. This will allow us to change which mode the camera is in. Photo is the default. If we swipe to the right, we're going to get some videos here, which is not what we want for this course. But if we swipe to the left, we're going get the other photo modes. We're going to get portrait and we're going to get panel, which we will talk more about in their own videos. But just know this is where you control what mode you're in. Changing modes will also change some of the interface so just be aware of that and that some of the interface will adjust a little bit depending what options are available in which mode. On the bottom left, you will find a button with your most recent image. You can tap on that to look at your recent images that have been taken. In the middle is the shutter button, which will actually take the picture when you tap it. There are a few hidden features in the shutter button. First, if you tap and slide left, it will take burst photos, which we'll talk about later. If you tap and slide to the right, it will start recording a video, which of course is not what we want to do in this class, but it's good to know. Lastly, at the bottom right, you will find the button to switch to the selfie camera. Then you can see me and you can flip it to go back to the back cameras. Now that we have the basic layout of the app down, let's look at some of the other options. Like I said before, when I hit the little arrow at the top, it opens up that secret little menu there. You've got a lot of options that you find along the bottom. Some of these options deal with the same things that we already saw on screen, and some deal with different settings. First, we have flash again, the only difference here is instead of having just auto and flash off, we also have the on. So if you ever need to force the flash to be on, that's where you do it. If we make this dark, you will see that night mode appears here. This is where you actually get the slider to determine how long night mode lasts. So currently, it's set to auto. You can slide to off or you can slide it up to the max time. The max time will be determined by how dark it is. So it's still not dark enough in this room to go very far even though I'm on a tripod, but we will talk more about that in the night mode video. With the light turned back on, night mode disappears and we have the live photo next. When you tap that, you can see you have auto-on or live-off. Again, you have the option to force it to be on all the time instead of just being on auto. In my experience, auto will use live photo most of the time, so auto and on are very similar. Then we have these little squares which are the photographic styles. Again, I don t think much of these. They're just different filters, basically, and I don't think they're all that useful. But if you want to set a photographic style, you can do it there. Next we have the aspect ratio. You can set this to 4 by 3, which will use the full sensor, square, which will crop the sensor down to a square, or 16 by 9, which will be more like a video format, but we'll crop a little bit off the sensor. Generally, I'm going leave this on 4 by 3. Of course, if you flip it, it will be actually in 3 by 4. So use that to get the most data. You can always crop it to a 16 by 9 later or a square later if you need to. Then we have this plus or minus sign. This is just an exposure control like we had with the sunshine little icon when we tap the screen, only this one will give you actual numbers and it won't force you to choose a focusing point. Next, we have the self timer, so you can set this to three seconds or 10 seconds and we will have a video on using the self timer to take pictures of yourself. Of course, most of the time we will have this turned to off, so it's really good to know that it's here. Sliding over, we have a couple more controls. First, we have these overlapping circles. These are more filters. These ones are actually called filters instead of photographic styles, but they're very similar to some Instagram filters or something like that. Again, not something that I would do because you can handle that all in post later. You don't need to worry about doing it while you're taking the picture. Lastly, we have the RAW toggle. This is exactly like the RAW toggle in the top right of the screen. So you can always just use that one. It's either on or it's off. So those are the options within the camera app. Of course, like I said, this will change with the different modes, but we'll talk more about that when we get into the videos on those specific modes. 6. RAW Photos: [MUSIC] We've mentioned raw photos a couple of times already, but we haven't really gone into detail about what raw photos means. I know that some of you might be coming from the regular camera photography and you might know all about raw photos. But I also know that a lot of you might be entering the world of photography for the first time and not have ever encountered this before. I'm going to into some detail about how raw images work and how Apple's ProRaw images work, in particular. Raw photos are a type of file type that captures everything that happens in an image, as opposed to a jpeg which has some processing done. Probably the easiest way that I know to think about this is to think about how if you have raw meat, you can do almost anything with it that you want to. That's like a raw photo. You can do pretty much anything with it that you want to. Whereas if you have something like a TV dinner, you can't do hardly anything to it, but it's not going to take up much of your time. That's really the difference here, is raw photos require you to put time into them to make them look good, but you can make them into whatever you want them to be. The same way you could if you had just some raw hamburger, you could turn that into whatever you want it now as opposed to the TV dinner where it's not going to take up a lot of your time. But it also, you can't make it be what you want it to be. You are stuck with whatever you've got and maybe you don't like it that much. Raw images are much larger. They take up a lot more space because they are containing so much information. For a jpeg though, the camera, in this case, that's your phone, is making a bunch of choices for you. It's choosing things like what the color temperature is going to be, what the exposure is going to be, how it's going to interpret different colors. All of those choices are being made for you when the picture is processed by the camera, the raw photo, it just captures whatever's on the sensor and gives that to you and that's why they are so much larger. You might be thinking, well, that sounds great. I guess I should just capture raw photos all the time. But that's not really true because raw photos don't look very good until something is done to them, just like a pile of raw meat doesn't look appetizing until somebody makes it into something good. You have to be willing to edit your photos if you're going to take raw photos most of the time. Now, here's where we get into Apple's ProRaw. This is an interesting thing because Apple has found a way to take a raw image and also wrap it up with a bunch of their computational photography stuff. An Apple Pro raw image can actually look pretty good, right when you take it and doesn't necessarily require any editing. At this point, you might be like, well, that sounds like a win-win. I guess I should just take Apple ProRaw all the time, which could be true except that you have to remember that your iPhone has limited storage space and that Apple ProRaw images are really, really large. Just like we talked about in the settings video, a Jpeg will just be a few megabytes, whereas a pro raw image off of a 12-megapixel sensor can be like 25 megabytes. If you use that 48-megapixel sensor, then you have to realize that that could be upwards of 75 megabytes per image file. If you're taking a lot of images then those raw photos are going to take up a lot of your storage space, especially if you went with some of the lower option storage spaces when you buy your iPhone. You want to be judicious in how many raw photos you take. It's also a good idea when you're taking raw photos to offload them onto your computer, to a hard drive or some Cloud storage space that has more space than your iPhone does, and then delete them from your iPhone to free up space. Of course, that takes some extra work, but it's worth it if you really want to get good images that you're going to add it. My suggestion is we are looking at your photo when you're getting ready to take it. If it's something that you know, you're going to want to edit because it's an important photo, then go ahead and turn on raw. But if it's just a quick snapshot, something you know, you're not going to edit, you're just taking it for fun and you want to send it to somebody really quick or something like that. Just go ahead and leave raw off. Don't worry about editing it later and just take what the camera gives you. A couple of other things that you're going one know about raw photos. One is that they're going to show up as DNG files, digital negative raw files, it's what those are. You just want to know that and if you're looking at different file types, especially if you're on your computer, you'll see these show up as DNGs and you'll also notice that it takes a lot longer for your computer to open them. That's just because they're much larger files. Another thing to note is that you can tell if an image is raw. If you look in the left-hand corner when you're looking at the image and it will say, raw there. Now, if you want more information about the file type or the file size, you can go ahead and hit on the I button at the bottom of the photo page. That will then show you the file type and the file size and more of the metadata information. Remember that even if you turn on 48-megapixel images, that will only apply to the main camera. It won't apply to any of the other cameras, which can only take 12-megapixel images, regardless. The main camera can also not take 48-megapixel images when it's doing anything that's special. Macro mode, night mode, taking something with the flash, all of those are going to just be bent down to 12-megapixel images, even though they can be raw. There are some photo formats that you can't use raw for and if so, if you turn raw on, they will become unavailable to you. These are things like live photos, portraits, or panoramas. Also note, if we want to try and capture burst photos while you are in raw, it's going to go ahead and just take those as jpegs because it's trying to take them very fast and processing raw files takes a lot of time. Now that we know more about these file types and what we're working with. Let's go ahead and dive into the basics of shooting with your iPhone. [MUSIC] 7. Shooting Basics: As you can see, we are now out here on location. We're going to take some pictures of some fall foliage today so that we can learn a little bit more about how to take pictures with our camera. We're going to be going through a lot of the different modes and how to use them. I'm going to be screen casting here from my iPhone the whole time and you'll be able to see me here on camera for part of it. We're going to take some pictures of this fall foliage here. The first thing that we're going to do is go ahead and just learn how to shoot with the camera. As you can see here, I'm now looking through my camera at this beautiful fall setting here. All we have to do to take a picture is press the shutter button. That's going to take the picture and then down in the bottom left, that picture will appear and we can view it. There it is. Now let's go back to the camera by hitting the back arrow and as you can see here, there's a bunch of different things we can do as we're shooting photos. Let's say that I'm going ahead and I'm looking at this tree here and I'd like to get in closer to it. I'm just going to adjust my settings. The two you'll remember is actually a crop on that main sensor. It's still do 12 megapixels, but it is a crop in there and then the three is actually changing to that close-up lens. You can see I can get much closer to the tree here when I'm using the tree. Say I want to get a much broader seen here I can go to the 0.5 and that's going to widen it way out. I haven't moved at all. My feet are still in exactly the same spot. That's the range from 0.5-3, and of course, whenever you want to capture that, you're just going to hit that button. Remember, we've got all of the different interface elements that we've already talked about here. Lastly, I just want to talk about flipping the camera. If I wanted a picture of myself, when I flip the camera here, frame it up, and then I'm just going to press the shutter button. Or in this case, it might be better for me to just hit the volume button and then we're going to get a picture just like that. That's just the basics of shooting on your iPhone. That's how you use it. One thing that's a little bit harder to capture here, but let me show it to you, is when you flip your phone, it will actually re-orient to landscape and then you can take a picture with a much wider from left to right field of view. A lot of our shots are done in that portrait mode, but here we can actually just flip the phone and it will flip to landscape. That can be great for especially getting something wide out there like that. That's the basics of shooting. We're going to talk a little bit about some of the different modes that are on the iPhone. 8. Portrait Mode: Now that we've talked about how to do the basic shooting, we're going talk about some of the modes here on the iPhone 14 Pro. Sorry, there's some traffic on the road near here, but we will keep proceeding. We're going to go ahead and go to the portrait mode. Go ahead and just swipe to the right or tap where it says portrait. You're going to pull up the portrait mode. Now the idea behind portrait modes that you can capture really nice portraits with your iPhone of people or animals. That's been it up until pretty recently. But now you can actually capture a fuzzy background picture of anything. The reason you might want to do that is it just makes it seem more professional if you have some blurring the background that is called bokeh and that is indicative of a more professional shot. That's why portrait mode got added in several years ago and it's gradually gotten better and better. It's not actually creating the bokeh that's being done digitally, but it's using multiple lenses and the lighter sensor on your iPhone to be able to figure out what the depth is and then blurred different portions of that picture. Let's take a look and see how this actually works in practice. Sorry for the shaking of the phone as I take pictures here, that's just part of taking pictures on location. I'm in portrait mode and I'm going to get a shot of these leaves here. I want the background to blur out. Now, you can see that I can tap and choose where it's going to actually focus in on. Then it will do its best to blur out the background. Now, it does best with people and animals, those are its best what the algorithm has been trained on. But it can do things like leaves or trees or anything really. But it's just going to try and blur that background out. Let's see how good of a shot that we can actually get here with this portrait mode of these leaves. You can see it gives help. As you get too close, it will tell you to move farther away. Let's just go in here, try and get these leaves here. You can see that the background blurs out there and we just have the leaves. Then we can take the shot. That's the basics of portrait mode there. The one thing that you're going to notice in portrait mode is that there's this little F icon right here and that actually allows you to adjust the digital aperture. It's just how much blur there is. Now of course, the aperture on these iPhone cameras doesn't actually change. It doesn't actually get smaller and bigger, but the amount of blur that you have will actually change. Let's go ahead and take a look at that. As I'm looking at these leaves here, see it says move further away. Then I can actually adjust how much blur there. So I can go down which creates more blur as the aperture gets supposedly bigger. I can go up, which creates less blur all the way up to F16. That's what the aperture does. Now, you can adjust that in post so I wouldn't necessarily worry about it. One of the other features if we close out the aperture that you're going to see here is actually this where it says natural light here on the phone. Those are different lighting modes. Let's take a look at those. You can see that when I swipe through here, I get different forms of light. This is pretty awesome. But the thing about it is you can change this in post so you don't need to adjust your light source here while you're on location. You can actually do that in post on your phone. Don't worry too much about like switching out your lighting modes here because that would actually bake it into your photo and it's nice to have the flexibility to change the lighting mode later if you want to. I wouldn't worry too much about that when you're actually taking the photo, focus on getting the photo right. Then from there, go ahead, and when you're editing, you can adjust that lighting mode if you want something that's more like monochromatic or it's more like studio lighting or something like that, which can be helpful when you're taking pictures of a person. The last thing to note here in the portrait mode section is just which lenses you can use. You actually have options for 1, 2, and 3. Let me show you that. When I'm here on the leaves on three, you can see I'm very close, but if I go to two, I'm going to get further away. That will adjust the distance that I need to be away from the subject to get it in focus. Now I can go all the way out to one, which is of course that main camera sensor uncropped. But you'll notice that I can't actually go down to 0.5, so I can't go out super wide with portrait mode. That's just not a feature that is available on that super wide lens. One of the other things you can do when you're in portrait mode is actually turn it around and take a selfie. If you hit the flip button on your photo, it will then focus in on your face and the front-facing camera can actually do the selfie there. You don't have an option here to adjust the field of view so you basically have to do that with your arm in and out, but you can see that it will blur out the back. You can still adjust the f-stop if you want to, but of course, you can do that in post. Then when you're looking at it, you can see where it's blurring behind you. It will just pick out your face and do that and then you can take a photo. Now, I don't consider these selfie photos to be quite as good as using the back-facing camera. They just don't seem to do quite as well because they don't get as much information from that lighter scanner and those other lenses. But it is really useful if you do need a photo of yourself that uses portrait mode. That's basically all of the features of portrait mode. We'll do another video later with an actual person subject where we talk about how to take pictures of people in portrait mode and also not using portrait mode. But we'll do that in another video down the line. 9. Panorama: Now we're going to move on to the next mode. If you're in portrait mode, you're going to go ahead and tap on where it says ''Pano,'' that stands for panorama, or you can just swipe to the left until you get there. It's the furthest right mode. As you're swiping left, you go further right. Panorama is a pretty cool feature of the iPhone. This used to be a lot more difficult to do before they added panorama. You had to take multiple photos and then you needed to be able to go into a program like Photoshop and stitch them together. But now that we have these phones that are basically computers, they can stitch them as you take them. The reason why you can do with this. So basically you have the four lens options. We can start here at all the way wide, or we can be at 1, 2 or 3 to take the panorama mode. Now, the only thing about this is just remember that that two is actually a cropped sensor. Even right now I care that much about using two, but you can go ahead and use one or three or 0.5 and you'll have the full sensor there. But you can use two if it works for you. The deal with the panorama is that you're just going to slowly move the phone from left to right to capture as much of the view as you want to. You can do a full 360, to find that 180 is normally a little bit better. Let's go ahead. We're just going to push the button and then it just says you keep moving and you keep that arrow in line as much as you can, with the yellow line there. It will show you if you need to move up or down and then when you're done you just hit Stop. Then you can go ahead and you can look at that panorama on your phone and you can see you've captured a much wider shot than you might have been able to normally, even with the ultrawide. Of course, if you use the ultrawide with Pano, you can capture really super wide shots. Now one thing to note about these is they're not super easy to share because they're very wide and big, but they are good if you really want to get the entirety of a scene and you just can't do it with just the ultrawide lens. That's basically Pano mode. When we pop out of here, you will see there's not much else to go off of. You don't get to set the focus or do anything else, but it's taking away a lot of the legwork that goes into making a panorama. 10. Macro Mode: One of the cool things about iPhone photography with the iPhone 14 Pro is that you are able to actually get in really close and take macro shots, really get into the details of things. This is really useful when you're out in a nature setting like this and you really want to get in on something. We're going to take a photo of this leaf using the macro mode. Now, you remember we turned on the setting that allows us to see when macro mode is active and turn it off and on if we want to. But this only happens when we get close enough to an object. Make sure you're on the main photo camera. Let's go ahead and look at this. We're going to take a look at this leaf here. When we're getting close to the leaf, you can see that what appears down here is this little flower, and that is the macro mode sign. Now, I'm going to show that again. As we get in close, you watch what happens, it pops. What's happened is it's actually changed to the wide-angle lens to shoot this photo. It's actually going to shoot this really wide so that it can get the details of that leaf there. Now if we don't want that, we can hit the little flower. You can see it goes all fuzzy because it's not shooting in macro anymore. Let's turn macro back on and you can see we can get all the details of that leaf there. All you have to do then is just hit the shutter button and it's going to take the macro photo. Then you can go ahead and look at that in there and you can see that you're getting a much more detail than if you take it without. Let's look at it without. Regular, let's go in here, turn off macro, take that photo. It's much more blurry and we can't get that detail. Let's look at it. This is without macro, this is with macro, without, and with. You can see that macro mode, it will be really helpful to you when you need to capture the really fine details of an object or a texture or something like that. That won't necessarily be useful for everyone, but when it is useful, it's very useful. 11. Self Timer: There will be times when you want to appear in your own photo and you're shooting with the iPhone, and so that's where you want to open up that self-timer. If you recall, you're just going to do this by hitting that little arrow. You can see that I'm using the selfie camera to film this because I need to use the tripod for the self-timer. Because you do need a tripod and a phone mount, or at least someplace you can prop your phone up, to make this work. Click on the self-timer, which is little timer there, and you're going to get the option to have it off 3 seconds or 10 seconds. I'm going to go ahead and put this on 10 seconds, and then I'm going to flip the camera so that I can go ahead and get into the photo now. When I press this button, it's going to start a countdown. I want to walk out and get into the picture, but I can't see where I am. This might not be a very good shot, you want to test this a couple of times. Now, one thing to note on that is that when you're in front of it, and you, of course, you can't see this, but there's actually the flash will flash to let you know when it's going to take the photo. Now we'll go ahead, we'll take a look at that shot and see what happened. You can see I got there in front of it, and I'm doing something weird with my hands because I'm talking while this photo is being taken, but that's how you go ahead and you get into that shot. You're going to use the self-timer. That's really all there is to it. You choose 3 seconds or 10 seconds. Three seconds you will use if all you're trying to do is just make sure that your camera is completely steady. You put it on the tripod, you set it to three seconds, and then you hit the timer. You don't need to move, you don't need to get in there, you're just trying to make sure you get a completely steady shot. Now, if you are just trying to get in there, then you're going to want that 10 seconds, so that you can get around get in there. Now, it's really helpful, of course, if you're doing a group shot, like a family portrait or something like that, then you can just have the other people stand there in front of you, and you can frame it up, and then you know where you'll be. Whereas opposed to when I was shooting it, I didn't know exactly where to stand all by myself. That's how you use the self-timer. It's a pretty nifty feature to have when you need it. 12. Live Photos: Now, we're in a new location and we're going to talk about live photo. I have my daughter here with me. Sometimes when you are shooting something that is active like a child or an animal or when they're doing sports or just playing around, you're going to want to be able to capture the life photo. The live photo is found on the top right corner of your screen. It's the little multiple circles. There's a circle and then there's another circle and then there's a dotted circle around it. That's where life photos is. Remember, you can turn this on and off in the little settings menu. If I tap it, it's off with a line through it. If I tap it, it's on and it's on auto, so it will go if it needs to, which is most of the time. We're going to go ahead and we're just going to capture a couple of live photos here so we can see how that works. She's just going to run through going this way and we're going to take a life photo of her and then we'll see what that looks like once we do it. Can you start over there? When she comes through here, then we can just capture a couple of pictures of her. Then we're going to be able to actually choose the frame that we want. What life photos does, is it captures one-and-a-half seconds before the photo is snapped and one-and-a-half seconds after at 30 frames per seconds. So it's a little video clip. It can capture audio too. You can use that if you turn it into a video. Let me show you how this looks here in the photos app. So it says live in the top-left corner. If I hold down on it, you'll actually see the live video play. You can see that played through. Now if you want to select which photo you want, you're actually going to hit "Edit" and then go to the little Live icon. Once you do that, you'll see where the key photo is in the video clip and you'll try and choose the best one. But it doesn't always do a great job. You might want to move it backwards or forwards to select what you want it. This is really good if there's a lot of motion going on because you can select it there. If you choose a new one, you just didn't click Make key photo. We're not going go into all of the editing right now because this isn't an editing course, but that's just how you select the photo that you want. Let's go to another one and see this one here. We'll click "Edit". What you might notice here is that some of these frames are blurry. They're not really crisp photos all the time because it's capturing video. So you can choose a new frame, but maybe that frame won't always be the best. In the next video, we're going to go ahead and talk about burst mode, which can help with that problem if you need to capture a really crisp action shot. 13. Burst Photos: Sometimes the actual live photo just isn't going to be crisper as for you, you want to capture a series of crisper photos in the action shot. That's where burst mode is going to come in. Burst mode is going to be a rapid-fire of taking pictures. It does about 10 frames per second, and it will do it in a way that each one will be a high-resolution picture like the normal thing off of the sensor. It can be a lot better of an image quality than you'll get from just choosing the photo from live photos. Let me show you how that is. You're just going to be in the normal photo, and when your subject comes through, you're just going to take and drag your shutter to the left and that will make it burst mode. Remember, if you drag to the right, it put it in the video, so drag to the left for burst mode. We're going to see this. We see our subject coming, and we're just going to tap the shutter and drag to the left. You can see the count there, it counts up as it goes along for how many photos it's taking. Let's take a look at this in the app. When you come here, you can see in the top left, instead of saying live, it now says burst and it says 17 photos. In the bottom middle, there is the option to select. We can select from those 17 photos. As you can see as we scroll through this, there are a lot crisper, they are a lot more clear, and a lot better than those frames in the live photo were. Live is good, and you can do some other fun things with live like make gifts and loops and stuff like that, but burst mode is going to be better if you want to get a really crisp action shot if you're shooting sports or wildlife or something like that. 14. Long Exposure: While we're on the subject of live photos, I just want to show you a little trick that you can do with live photo, like I said, there are some real good uses for them and one of those is stimulating a long exposure. When you're doing photography with a regular camera, to do a long exposure and get something like smooth water running through, you will actually hold the aperture open for a long time, in order to do that, you need special equipment like a tripod to keep the camera steady and an ND filter, which is a neutral density filter, which actually lets you chew, control the amount of light that you're letting in through the lens because when the lens is open, you're going to get too much light. You need this special equipment, but with the iPhone and live photos, you can do it without any special equipment, so I'm going to show that to you now because I have some water running through here in the background, I'm going to show you how we get a shot of that water being smooth using a live photo. Remember, you can't be shooting raw with a live photo, so you need to make sure that raw is off and live photo is turned on and then we're just going go here and I'm just going to zoom in on the water here because I can use my telephoto lens and then with a live photo on, I'm just going to snap the shutter. Then when we go in here and look at it, you're going to see it says live up in the corner and if I tap that and bring up the options for why can do with live photo, so I can turn it into a loop, which we'll just go around and round or balance which will go backwards and forwards, or we have long exposure. When I tap that, it's going to process all of those frames together, find out where the water is and then you can see I get that smooth water and it's just processing all of those frames from that little video clip together. Remember it's three seconds, 1.5 before and 1.5 after I'm going to processes that together, it's going to make this smooth water effects, so this is great if you're shooting waterfalls or rivers like I was doing here, you can get a really nice effect from this. Now you could also use this to shoot light trails, but you need to make sure that you're not in night mode, you're using live photos instead of night mode and then you could get some light trails or even fireworks to simulate that long exposure experience. 15. Digital Zoom: We've changed locations here so that we're getting a little bit closer to some of this fall foliage. For our next topic, which is digital zoom. Now, you might hear some water running in the background because there's a little water dam over here, but here we're going to talk about digital zoom. Digital zoom is essentially cropping in camera. We've talked about this a little bit with the 2x times "lens", which crops in twice as far on the main camera, but what we want to talk about now is going beyond that into digital zoom. If you see this on my phone here, when I'm looking out at this scene, if I want to get close to something, I can pinch out with my fingers and as I do that gets closer and closer and you can see it changing the numbers down the bottom. Here I'm at 2.4, I'm on the two, but I'm cropped in 0.4 farther than that. Now once I get past three, I'm now only cropping, I can't switch lenses anymore. I just zoom in and it can go all the way to 15, but you can see it gets blurry and pixelated. For this reason, I don't suggest that you ever use the digital zoom on your phone. There's no reason to do that when you can just crop it and post later. You might as well capture as much information as you can at the point where you're taking the photo. Then go ahead and just crop it into what you need it to be later because it will be just as pixelated in that form. 16. Night Mode: You might notice that this video is extremely dark, and the reason for that is that we are going to be talking about using night mode. I know we looked at this when we were looking at the app features at the beginning of this course. Now we're actually going to learn how to use it. Obviously, it's very dark here in the studio right now. I have no lights on at all. It's very dark, and you can't probably see what is out there. But if I turn on night mode, it's going to brighten up and you can see that it is shifting between five seconds and three seconds there. You can also see that I have the menu at the bottom of the screen opened up so they can access more night mode features. When you're holding the phone in your hand, it will only be able to sustain about five to three seconds of night mode just because there's too much shaking your hand to do more than that. But let's see how this works. If I turn night mode off by tapping on it, we're going to take a photo in the darkness and see what that turns out. There it is. Now you can see that it's quite dark. You can't really see anything there. Now, let's go ahead and turn night mode on. He's got this five-seconds, it's here. Let's go ahead and hit that. You can see the little timer runs along the bottom of the screen there. When it does that, it's going to stop all those photos together. Then we can see this is what we get with the five seconds turned off. We can actually see the man now as right here, we couldn't see the van really at all. That's how it works. Now when you're on a tripod like I am here, you can actually by far extend the amount of time that it will take the photo. Let's go ahead and hit night down here in the menu. All I have to do is scroll to the right, and you can see I can max out here at 22 seconds. That is because there is a little bit of light coming into this room. If it were completely dark, it would probably let me go all the way to 30 seconds on a tripod. Say if I were trying to take a picture of the stars at night and there was no moon. Probably let me go to 30 seconds. Let's just see what the 22 seconds does and I'll speed this up so you don't have to watch 20 seconds of nothing here. But let's just hit the button, and it's going to start going, and it's going to go for all 22 seconds. Does take a minute to process because that is a lot of photos that is stacking together. Now let's see. Here is the last one that we did with 22 seconds. Here's the five-second and here is the no time at all, just a regular photo. Now you can see that there's actually more difference between no time and five seconds than there is between five seconds and 22 seconds. That just has to do with the amount of ambient light that's in the room right now, it's defaulting to five seconds because it thinks he can do it with that. You can see these are very similar because of the processing that's going on. If you were in a very dark space, even darker than this room that I'm in right now or outside at night, you would see a much bigger difference between the five seconds and the 22 seconds. Now, one last thing that I want to show you is just the difference between this and using the flash. I'm going to go ahead and turn that off and turn the flash on. You can see that it really lit up everything with the flash there. This is what it looks like. You can look at these and you can decide what you think is better. But personally, I think the flash, first of all, it doesn't carry very far, so you have to be close to the subject like I am here. Second of all, it doesn't do as good a job making it feel normal and natural as night mode does. Night modes going give you the most authentic feel because night mode doesn't try to make it bright. It just tries to make it so you can see what's there. That's the main difference. I wouldn't recommend using the flash in dark circumstances. I really recommend just using night mode. You can use this when you're handholding it for like three to five seconds. But you can also use a tripod to get much longer exposure times [MUSIC] 17. Shooting Portraits: We've moved down the trail a little bit and now it's time to talk about taking portraits. This is one of the things you'll need to do for your project, is take a portrait of somebody using portrait mode, and there are other ways you can get a good portrait as well, not using portrait mode. So we'll talk about those in this video as well. We've gone over the ins and outs of the mechanics of portrait mode in the other video. But this is actually the process of taking a portrait photo. Let's go ahead and take a look and see how we can take a portrait of somebody using portrait mode and also using the main camera with a RAW photo. Because remember portrait mode and RAW photos don't work together. But sometimes you want to take a portrait using RAW. Let's go ahead and take a look at this. I have her sitting here on the bench, and of course I'm going to put my phone into portrait mode now. When I'm looking here in portrait mode, as you can see, it's blurring out the background. It's showing me that. Remember, I can change the f-stop if I just press "F", I can go ahead and I can change that if I want to make it blurrier or less blurry. But remember that's something that you can do in post, so you don't have to do that here. The same thing with the lighting. If I scroll through the lightings here, you can see that it will adjust how the light looks on her. But I don't need to do that here. I can always change that in post. Of course I'm going to frame her up with a nice background. Then you just want to talk to your subject a little bit and say, give me a nice little smile. Just try and bring it out in them. Can you smile real nice? Thank you. Snap it. Now portrait mode just takes a little bit because it is processing a lot of images here. You do have to just take a little bit to process it. Your subject does need to be able to hold a little bit still, which is why for kids and animals, sometimes live mode works a little bit better. As you're taking the portrait, you'll want to move a little bit, see if you can get some different shots. Remember, you can also switch which lens you're using. So you can go a little bit wider or a little bit more in, but you can't use the super wide lens. If you're this close, it's going to tell you to move farther away. Obviously that's not a great framed-up shot. So I'm going to move further back at the camera here and look at this. This is a point where I might want to adjust the F in post because it's a little bit too blurry. We're just going to try this. Can you look at me? Look at me, honey. Thank you. You want to take several because you never know what your subject is going to do in portrait. So just snap a few so that you can get something that looks good. We're using portrait mode here. But let's go ahead and let's switch to regular photo and let's turn on RAW. RAW is of course going to let us use that full 48 megapixel sensor. That larger sensor can produce some natural depth of field lines own. The blurriness in portrait mode is that fake depth of field that the iPhone is baking in. But if we use a larger sensor, we can get a little bit of natural depth of field, not quite so much, but on its own. We can't adjust that because the actual aperture doesn't change. But we're going to do our best here. With this, the closer you are to the subject and the further they are from the background, the better picture you're going to get. Let's go ahead and just take this picture and then go ahead and have your subject move a little bit. Can you come over here to this other end of the bench? We'll take another picture this time with the tree in the background. Just try and get some different shots because you don't know which one's going to look best. Now, that's good. Right there. Nope, move back over please. Just move over a little bit. It's good if you can do a little bit of posing with them, but also pay attention to what's in the background. We don't really want a tree branch coming right out of her head here. I don't want the tripod there. That's good. Can you look at me and give me a nice smile? Then try some different shots. Try flipping the phone the other way. Can you just put your leg up? Yeah. Perfect. He put the arm up on your knee? That's good. Yeah. You can cross them over like that if you want to. [inaudible]. What? [inaudible]. Pay attention to your rule of thirds, sure that works. Give me a nice smile, right at the camera. Thank you. Just make sure that you're getting a number of different shots when you're shooting a portrait so that you can go through them later. Of course, you can delete the ones where they're not smiling or they have a weird expression on their face or their eyes are closed or something like that. Try and get a bunch of shots then that way make sure that you are getting at least one good photo out of that. 18. Landscapes: [MUSIC] One of the parts of the project is going to be to actually take a landscape photo using the ultra-wide lens. We want to talk about landscape photography a little bit right now. I had to move to a new location which is closer to the road. There might be some car noise coming through. But hopefully, you'll be able to get the concepts in this video. You can see here that I'm actually on the ultra-wide lens right now and I am looking out at this mountain landscape. Now let me show you the difference between the ultra-wide and the one. As you can see, we lose a lot of the vista when we're in at one and of course, two and three is even closer. Each camera is used for different things. Really that ultra-wide is really fabulous for getting an entire landscape and not needing to use the Panorama. Of course, you can also capture Raw. This is a good time where you might want to turn on that Raw setting because you're going to capture a lot more detail in that landscape and be able to crop it more to what you want it to be. Because when you can capture the ultra-wide, it captures pretty much everything. You might want to crop it in and maybe not to the depth of one, but you might want to crop it in. Now, of course, you can get more detail on the 1x because actually that main 48-megapixel camera. But you get a wider shot with the ultra-wide lens. I suggest using the ultra-wide lens for your landscape shot. You want to pay attention to how you are framing this up. You can see we turned on the rule of thirds. We're going to look for that, just like we do in Portrait. We're going to look for what we're setting on our thirds, because those are going to be really important. You can see I've got each of these mountains on one of the third lines here. Then I have this foreground, which is this grass and brush. Then I have my real punch of color in the middle. I'm thinking through this as I'm setting up this shot and then I can hit my shutter button to take the shot. Then I can go ahead and I can look at it on my phone, see what it looks like, get in, close on the details and see if I'm getting what I want. Right now I'm in direct sunlight, so I'm getting some really deep shadows and some really bright highlights. That's one of the benefits of turning on Raw when you're taking landscape photography is if you're getting really bright parts and really dark parts like I'm getting right now, you want to have that Raw turned on so that you're able to recover those highlights and shadows in your post-production processing. You can't do as much with that if you don't have Raw turned on. The JPEG is going to make a lot of those processing decisions for you, just like we talked about before. You're going to really want to have Raw turned on especially if you're taking it in harsh conditions like I am here. That's just a little bit about landscape photography. There's a lot that goes into landscape photography, but one of the most important things is practicing. Trying over and over and over again, and seeing what shots you get. Moving to a different spot and taking another picture, that will really help you as you're doing your landscape shots. [MUSIC] 19. Next Steps: I hope that you've really enjoyed this course learning how to use the iPhone 14 Pro for photography. I hope that this helps you take better images, and to really be able to express your creative vision using your iPhone. At this point, you know everything that you need to know to get started with iPhone photography, you know about the settings, you know, about the modes, you know about going out and shooting pictures so the best thing you can do is get started. If you haven't already done the project, go ahead and do the project, but even if you've completed the project, practice, practice, practice. Don't just practice just by pushing the shutter button, be conscious about it, think through, what mode am I going to use? Why am I going to use that mode? What should I adjust? How should I adjust it? Really, you want to take just a lot of pictures and a lot of them won't be good and that's okay, you just can delete them and get rid of them and save the ones that you think are good. But practice will help you get better more than anything else. Go ahead and start practicing, that's really your next step. But if you're looking for another step that involves some other course, well, I've got a lot of courses here on Skillshare that can help you and other people do as well. There are lots of different courses on photography skills, as well as photo editing. I have a course here that goes over iPhone photo editing that one was made for the iPhone 11 Pro, but the editing tab has remained almost exactly the same. So you can go ahead and take that and you can learn a lot more about that. As I said, the next course after this one is going to probably be the iPhone 14 video course, and so if you're taking this course a little bit later, you'll probably be able to catch that course as well. If you're looking to take your photography in a way that's more advanced, I've lots of courses here on Affinity Photo, which is a great editing app on desktop and iPad, and lots of other courses on different creative skills. You can go ahead and check out any of those or just search Skillshare for the next course that will help you to take your photography to the next level. I'm looking so forward to seeing what you are able to create. Thanks so much for watching, and I will see you in the next course. 20. Bonus Video: JPG vs HEIF: We've talked about a lot of different things in this course. I think you've got the basics down, and you know the concepts you ready to do your project. But before we left, I wanted to do a quick bonus video on the difference between JPG format and a HEIF format, sometimes called HEIF format, sometimes called HEIF format, sometimes just called high efficiency image format. I want to talk a little bit about that because I know this gets confusing for people on the iPhone and we mentioned it when we were talking about settings. But let's just dive in, and talk a little bit more about what makes the difference here. Essentially, the high efficiency image format is a format that Apple developed in order to save space. You know your iPhone only has so much space on it. The JPGs were taking up a lot of spaces. People took more and more photos. Apple developed a new format for images that is going to crunch it down without losing quality. Now what happens is as you crunch down a file, it becomes more difficult. It requires more power and processing for the computer to read that file. A HEIF and also the video version of that HEVC is really compacting down the information. It's harder for the computer to take that information and render it. Now, this doesn't affect you on the iPhone really because your iPhone is so good at processing information. Also if you're on one of the max with an Apple silicon chip like the M1 or M2 and M1 Ultra or something like that. It's not going to have any problem. It just can crunch right through those files, and it can show you them fine. When you run into a problem, when you start getting into things like websites where you want to upload your images to a website and that website doesn't provide the processing power to crunch through those images quickly, or it just can't read that file format at all, that's where you need the JPEG. In the settings you're going to have to choose. Unfortunately, you have to do this in the settings which doesn't make it super convenient. But you have to choose between saving space with high efficiency or using a more compatible file type, which in this case is JPG. Really those high efficiencies, I think they range between a third and about half the size of the equivalent JPEG. They're going to save you a lot of space. But there are going to make it more difficult when you want to put them anywhere else, which is why we're not using them in this course. That's just a little bit about JPEG versus high efficiency image format and why you might run into problems when you share your image with other people or something like that. No problem when you are pretty much consolidated within the Apple ecosystem. But once you start stepping outside that, that's where it starts to cause a lot of problems. Of course, you can always take those photos, edit them in another program that's not the photo editing program and save them out as a JPEG. Or you can use a image converter to save them as a JPEG. But of course that's another step if you need them. Now, it's not going to affect you if you're posting to something from your phone like Instagram or something like that that will handle these files just fine. I think it might actually be converting them. I'm not sure. But anything else, you're going to probably run into a problem on down the road. That's just to warn you, help you to know what's going on there. Again, if you have any questions, go ahead and drop those in the comments. I'm not a file format expert, but I'll do my best to answer them.