Transcripts
1. Introduction to Course: Hello, my name is Jesse and I am an animal artist and teacher. In today's course,
we are going to draw five different
types of beaks. Now birds have
evolved many types of bird beaks for a variety
of different reasons. Mainly because of diet, but because we're going
to draw our meat eater, seed eater, fruit and nut, eat, nectar feeder
and a fish eater. So I will teach you the different tips and
techniques onto how to draw these birds beaks and efficiently, quickly
and effectively. So we will tackle
the guidelines, the outlines, and then I'll show you how
to add some detail. Now, if you would
like to stop at the guidelines and outlines
and paint your beaks, feel free to do that, but I would love to see
those predictors. And yeah, that's it. So we're going to
tackle those five, but in this lesson, and we're going to follow those instructions to
you of the guidelines, outlines, detail and shading. I hope you enjoyed the course. Please don't forget to leave
your feedback and always, always share your
projects. Thank you.
2. How to Draw Beaks Pt 1 Seed-Eater: Welcome to the How to
do a beaks part one. We're going to start off with a seed eater such as
a sparrow or a robin. That thing you want to do
is to draw a thin circle. This circle represents
the widest part of the bird's beak, so be close to their head. The circle is long, almost stretched
out in a parents. This is your first circle. Then you want to draw
a second circle. In my example, I've
drawn the second circle roughly half a centimeter
away from the bigger one. This circle is going to be smaller and is
roughly going to be centered in the middle
of the larger one. That's the basic guidelines for simple bird like a C data. But as we go and explore
different bird beaks, the guidelines get a
little bit more elaborate. So what we need to do is join the edges of
the two circles together and they come to a
nice narrow point at the end. So we've all beaks, they sort of wide
and then they become narrow tools or
point at the end. So I've done one side
and then you need to do exactly the same to
the bottom as well. So just follow the edges
of the two circles and you will meet the other
line you previously Drew, Drew, Drew first. And
there we have it. We have something that
is starting to look like a little beak is almost like
a cone shape to this side. So that is the guideline
and the outline. Now you are ready to rub
out to our guidelines. I have drawn my
guidelines a little bit darker so that you
guys can see them. But I would advise drawing your guidelines a lot
softer and lighter. When Robin out,
be careful not to care about your outlines. If you have a smaller robot
that will be very useful. Now we're ready to draw
in the line which shows that there is an upper part of the week and the lower
part of the beak, this is basically the mouth. So study your picture. It might be a straight line or your bird's mouth might
have a slight curve in it, just like mine does. So at this point we have
tackled guidelines. We have tackled the outline
and we now have removed or guidelines and we have
a nice beak shape with the mouth in place. What I'm going to do now, I'm going to draw the
outline of the head because we don't just want
a random beacon page. I'm going to give
it a slight head. So enjoy this was I just draw roughly draw the head and then we'll be
back to the beak, where I'll show you the
shading and the detail. Now we're going to tackle
the shading of the beak. So when you want an era of
the beak to be lighter, we would apply less
pressure to the pencil. And when you want the area
of the beat to be darker, we would apply more
pressure to the pencil. I'd also recommend holding your pencil at a
slight angle as it makes the shading
a lot easier and produces a smoother effect. Now I've taken the time to study the beak I'm using and you
should do the same with yours. And I've noticed that
the lower part of the beak towards the
tip is quite dark. So I'm going to
begin shading here. And like I said earlier,
the dark areas, I will apply more pressure to my brush to make it
obviously darker. On the top half at the end of the beak as well as
a little bit darker. So again, I will apply
more pressure on my brush to make
those areas darker. Around the edge of the beaks. The beak, there's only one. There is a little bit
of a shadow that is costed by the head, which is why I added
some shadow there too. Now I'm just going
over the mouth to make it more defined. And it is quite dark. Again, there's a
slight shadow that is cast onto the lower beak. So I'm just applying that now. I'm using gentle movements
of my pencil to create a nice gradient of the
graphite pencil on the beak. For darker areas, I will obviously apply more
pressure to the pencil, but I will also go
back to it and apply more pencil for those
really dark areas too. I would always recommend returning to your
picture as often as you can because there's
always parts that you miss and also get
close to your picture. If you need glasses,
petals and glosses, get close to your picture. Really study the beak. Study the dark areas
and light areas, and study where the
detail is as well. No more you can absorb them or you can learn more information. You can pick up
from your picture. No more, you can apply
it to your drawing. And I must say I really enjoyed drawing and I can't say I'm painting because
usually I paint a lot. I've really enjoyed
drawer in these beaks, like really enjoyed it. It was very, very relaxing and I wonder if you
feel the same as well. Also be aware of any highlights
on your peak that it's not just shading for the
highlight highlighted areas, I would leave those areas wet. Or if you do find that you have drawn over era that
should be light. You can just get your
rubber out and rub it out. And this is a constant examining your picture and returning back to your drawing, adding in more detail
and more shading, returning to your picture, picking up more information, coming back to your drawing, adding any more shading. Because I don't just
look at the picture once and then I'm ready to go. You will constantly
be moving to and from the photo you're referencing
from annual drawing. Now around the mouth, I was just working in
some more shadows. As they're, like I said earlier, there is a shadow
being cast onto the lower beak
because of the mouth. And naturally there is also a shadow on the lower part
of the vague underneath. Some of these marks I'm
drawing may not be shadows. They might just be darker
marks on the beak, which we will explore
more later on. So for darker marks
and the beak, I would definitely
apply more pencil for darker areas that are
just a result of shading. I'd apply a little bit less unless it was
really, really dark. Where you could also do
shading and detail for me, I tend to do it interchangeably, so I'll do a lot of shading initially and instantly
add some detail, more shading, a
little bit detail, more shading and in
loads of detail. So you'll find that your ad in a little scratches
on the beak, which I have done
a few times now, as well as the shading. And it's just
building the layers. You keep going and keep
building the layers. And then you have to
know when to stop. And that's the most
difficult part. When do you stop?
Because you could keep going on for ages. You keep going on and adding more and more
and more detail. And it could look
absolutely incredible. And that's down to your
personal preference. When to stop, It's
totally down to you. My advice would be if you
feel like he might be done, but you're not a 100% sure. Take a break, walk away from
it, do something different. I'm not a 15-minute break. I'm talking more
like half an hour to an hour and then
come back to it. And then you tend to have
a good idea of whether you need to add more
detail or if you're dumb. Another great way after
your break is a combat. Look at the reference picture. Look at your drawing and see is there anything
that's missing? So I just continued to
add in little details, continue to darken
those really dark areas as especially around the mouth. And then just add in a
gentle shade and around it. Take your time. Our isn't meant to be
rushed. Take your time. Enjoy each stroke
with the pencil. And I apologize if I've said paintbrush tool
throughout the video. I paint a lot. It just comes out naturally. But just now I mean pencil. So enjoy this guy is, and then we will be, then we will be moving on to the meat eater and we'll
study in an eagle. And the guidelines are
slightly different, but also a little bit
similar to this one. So enjoy this. Taking as much information
as you can and cannot wait to see
your drawings. Have fun.
3. How to Draw Beaks Pt 2 Meat-Eater: Hello, welcome to how to draw
beaks part to meat eater. This technique is
slightly similar to the seed ITO, with
some differences. You want to start out by
drawing your thin circle, which represents the
widest part of the beak. Then you want to draw a
straight line that goes through the larger circle and out
the other side to the left. This line will be straight
for about two centimeters, but then it will curve
downwards ever so slightly. Remember to draw your
guidelines softly. Then you need to draw
a smaller circle that is parallel
to the larger one. And this circle
sits at the end of the straight line before
it curves downwards. These are the general guidelines for painting a meat eater, such as an eagle. Next, we are ready to
tackle the outlines. You need to join the edges
of the circles together. And this causes
the line to slope downwards ever so
slightly and carry that lion fruit as it curves downwards to the button
of your guideline. This is almost like when you're on a roller coaster going up. And then suddenly there's
a sudden drop down. That's what's happening with the dropped downwards
from the top of the peak. And then you apply the same
technique to the bottom. So joining the two edges of the circles with
a nice line that's sloping upwards and
you need to curve it down so that it joins the
other lines you have drawn. Always make slight
adjustments if you need to. But remember, with this
bird of prey, this eagle, the beak at the end of the beak, it does slope down quite
suddenly is quite a drop. And you can make slight, slight adjustments here
and there to your beak. If you feel it needs
to be smaller, wider, you get to play around
at this stage before we start adding in the
shading and the detail. Here, I want to make
the tip of the beak a little thinner and
a little sharper. And don't be afraid
to use your eraser. So I'm just rubbing
out a line there. So I want to make the tip of the beak thinner. Point here. Next up. I'm just going to
finish off the beak on the other side to
bring it all together. And the beak does move
into the face a lot more. As you can see if the
seed eater below, it stops quite broadly. But with the beak, the meat eaters, the beat goes into the face
a little bit more. So you have a bit of
a mouth in the face. Here. I'm just drawing the
bottom of the mouth, which I will make
finner later again, don't be afraid to
use your eraser. And then if you want to draw
the top of the head as well, just be aware with Eagles, the top of their heads
are quiet, streamline. So there's not much of
a bulge going upwards. Looking at that big I'm
pretty happy so far. Just making slight
adjustments here and there to get it to a
place where you are happy to add the
detail and shade. So for the lower
part of the beak, I'm actually making it
a little bit thinner. If you feel like you need to
do the same tools please do. Now you are ready to rub out the guidelines
using your eraser. So always check your, check it against the references. Make sure you're happy with
the length and the width. And yet if you are, go ahead for about those
guidelines and get ready to add some serious
shading and detail. So here I've actually taken
a bit off the edge of the beak because I want it
to drop more dramatically. So like I said,
you can tweak it. Felicia guidelines.
You've done the outlines, and now it's time
to tweak and adjust until because it's
important to spend the time tweaking and adjusting before you go
into the detail and the shading because you're going to save yourself a
lot of time later. Now, I'm adding in some
details on the pink. So I'm starting
with the nose area. So for this bird of
prey, this meat-eater, they had a slight
ridge on the top of the nose where the
nostril is placed. Make sure you look at their
nostril and the shape of it so you draw it accurately. And then the shading part of
the nostrils is always fun. Strangely. But yeah, so I'm just adding in that semicircle to
the top of the nose, indicate where the nose the
nostrils is positioned. As I said earlier,
the mouth goes into the face a little bit more
with this bird of prey. And here I'm just adding
in the detail under shaping the mouth
with my pencil, just outlining where it is. So it will make shading
later a lot easier. The shading techniques for the eagle is very
similar to the seed. So I won't spend too
much time on this, but I'll just go over some
of the shading techniques. So it can you remember those
from the previous video? If you're thinking low
pressure on the pencil will create a softer,
lighter shaded area. And if you're thinking more pressure on a pencil
or create darker areas, you are absolutely correct. And how do you hold your pencil? If you're thinking
from a slight angle, again, absolutely correct. And it creates
smooth soft effects when you're shading
for the beak, I'm starting at the
edge of the beak. And it's very dark there and underneath as
well, It's quite dark. So straight away, I applied quite a lot of
pressure on my pencil, confident in other areas, very dark and just put it in more detail
going over it again. Remember I said layers are great to make
things more darker. So I'm just going over it again and follow it through
to the top of the beak where I start adding
more shadows and shading. Now is about, remember, going back to your
reference image, come into your drawing, go back to your reference image, check him and all the shadows are dark patches on the beak. All the details going back to your picture and applying
that information onto it. So I am just making the end of the beak
a little bit darker. And what's really
important is for an error if you make it dark and then coming out from
that dark area, you need to make it lighter
and lighter and lighter. So if I'm starting from
erudites quite dark, which I did in the
edge of the beak. And then I apply lesser, less and less pressure to my pencil as I move
outwards it create an, a really beautiful gradient. Now for the nose, as you can see
around the edge of the semicircle, it is darker. This is to show that the nose does stick
out a little bit. At that darker area is actually
a shadow being cast from the nose protruding
outwards ever so slightly. So a slight little bump
on top of the nose, nostrils straightway is
always going to be dark, no light gets up there. You just made that
dark right away. And then when you come out
from the nostrils, again, applying less and less pressure to the pencil as
you move outward, getting up beautiful
gradient across. Now underneath the beak, if you want to do this part, by all means please do. It is going to be darker. So you're going to
apply more pressure to your pencil to make
that area darker. Again, it's the combination of applying shading and
then apply in detail. So study your image. Do you see scratches, do see little marks and patterns on the nose at
those in so as you can see, by the nose underneath, there's a dark line
moving upwards. That was a detail I
just I just applied. And you just keep
keep doing that. Keep applying these details, keep applying the shading. And if you don't know, if you're finished, what do you do? If you're thinking go and take a break and then come back. Fantastic, That's exactly
what you need to do. There will be highlights
on your beak and you can either make sure you leave a white area for the highlights. But if you forget, like me sometimes and you accidentally clot over the
error that it's highlighted, then you can just get your
rubber out and just remove some of the pencil to create those highlights
because those highlights, in contrast with the dark areas really make the beak pop out. So make sure you keep
in those highlights. So if you feel like there aren't enough highlights
on your beak, you just grab your
rubber and takes some of the pencil away and
wallah, you have it. Now on the beat, there are some really evidenced
scratch marks. There may be on yours as well. Now, this peak, we
want it to look 3D. We don't want it to look 2D, we don't want it to look flat. So you need to add some
lines like am, I am there. So you want your
lines to be rounded. You do not want them
to be straight. So any lines that you draw, any sketchy lines that you draw, you want them to be curved? Absolutely, because a beak
is not flat, it is curved. So any scratchy lines you draw, please, please, please
make sure you curve them. Don't draw them straight
because you aren't going to get that beautiful,
3D, realistic look. Otherwise.
4. How to Draw Beaks Pt 3 Fruit-and Nut-Eater: Welcome to how to
draw beaks part free fruit and nut eater. So very similar
to the other two, with a slight adjustment. So initially you need to start drawing your
stretched out circle. Now, this circle, for
this written not ITA, we are drawing a parrot. This circle needs to
be slightly angled. So it's not straight, it's slightly angled,
whichever direction, depending on what side you're drawing your
fruit and nut EDA. So the first big circle
needs to be slightly angled. And then you draw your semicircle at the bottom
like I have done already. And this goes halfway through large circle
and down to the bottom. And then you need to draw a
smaller circle parallel to the larger circle
that is up the top. So you have to circle
the large one, small one, and a
semicircle at the bottom. That is the guideline
for this parrot, this fruit and nut eater. Here I'm just shaping
the top half of its lower beak because it moves outwards and
inwards a little bit. It says a slight curve
on that lower beak. So if your picture, the reference image you're
using has that as well. Please make sure you add in these slight curve
of the lower beak. Next up we will focus
on the outline. So you need to join
the top edge of your big circle with the
edge of the smaller circle. And it's going to be
a beautiful curve going all the way down. So just follow that
curve all the way down, similar to the bird of prey, warm but not as dramatic
all the way down. And then to a point, you also do the
same to the bottom. So this time we start in the
middle of the large circle, meeting the smaller circle. And then we can bring
both of those lions to a nice narrow point
at the bottom. Always make tweaks and
slight adjustments here and there if you
feel like it is needed. So you should have a beautiful curve going
all the way down, a nice rounded bottom. And it should near enough
level at the bottom of the beak should be
just a little bit below. Then we can make
slight adjustments. Because you are constantly
remember you're constantly referring back to your reference image and say, okay, it needs to be a bit more. In his elite, be a little
straighter at the top, which I've done there
perhaps needs be the peak of the beacon is be a little
pointier when you're happy, rub out your guidelines. Again, make sure you draw
your guidelines softly. And try not to like I have done just done for
about your outline. So if you have smaller
robo-advisors, that and also always, always draw your
guidelines very, very softly, as soft as you can. But not too soft because you
need to be able to see them. Now I'm just going to quickly
sketch the parrot's head. Feel free to watch it.
It will be super quick. And then we're going to go
straight back into the beak, make some slight adjustments, and then start adding shading and highlights
and the detail. So now we are ready to
add in some shading, some highlights and some detail. So don't forget the rules, the rules, the shade in rules. What are they? If you said a little pressure, low pressure on your
pencil for a lighter area and high pressure for dark
areas on your pencil. Fantastic, well done. And also your pencil
needs to be at an angle, which is nice smooth effect. So what I did straight away
is I darken the mouth. The inside of a parent's
mouth is relatively dark. So just straight
away with confidence does applied quite a lot of pressure on that part in the middle and
just made it dark. Now a great technique, actually, withdrawn beaks, is to
start from the outside. I never tend to start
shading from the middle. I always work from the
outside and work inwards. So you might see that is
a quite a common theme, not always, but a
relatively common theme when I am sketching. So here I've already started
to shape the lower beak. So the low beak is not flat, it is rounded, so you have that bottom half
and then the side. I've already started to add some shape on that lower beak. Now I'm adding some soft touches to the edges of the
bigger part of the beak. And don't forget
to build layers. I will probably sort out
adding some soft shading and then add some
more shading on top too dark in those areas. Like I said, it's
always useful to start running edges
and then build up confidence and then move
inwards towards the big. Now, if you look at Park beaks. Peaks. You will look
up parrot beaks. Beaks doesn't make sense. If you look at a parrot's beak. If you look at its beak, you will notice that there
are so many markings. They must have lots of fights, or it's just the food
they eat or maybe branches like Scratch
that beat is quite often, their beaks are
quite large so I can see how they might get in a way. If you have a look
at their beaks are quite a lot of scratches, lots of different tones
and different shades. Shading opportunities
everywhere. So this week is actually fantastic to practice
your shading. So using those very
simple techniques I've given you already in
the previous two videos, apply it to this peak. There's going to be so many
shading opportunities, so many detailed opportunities. And also don't forget
when you're adding in the detail to make sure the scratchy effect is rounded because the beak of
this bird is not flat, it is rounded, it is curved. Take your time. I am clearly taking my time. Enjoy the process. Adding the dark areas
and light areas, adding the details.
It's just fantastic. You could spend so long. Just sketch in the beak. So enjoy it, really enjoy it. Apply all those skills
you've already learned. And I can't wait to
see your result. Also, you'll notice
on the parents beak, whichever reference image
you are looking at, there will be highlights. And they'll also be patches of dark and light areas in that That's the coloring
pattern of the beak. So not only do you have to
create shading effects, you've also actually got to
color it in these patterns. This is also true for lots
of different types of birds. For example, a toucan has a very colorful
beaks, so beautiful. And it will have different areas which will be
darker and which be lighter because of the color. So not only dear
to think of where the light's coming
from and where, therefore where the shadows lie. You've also got to think
about the patches, the different color patches
on the beak as well. So the color is quite dark. Obviously, you would
apply it more pencil. Whereas if it's quite a
light color like yellow, for example, you would
apply it less color. If you want to create some highlights, what
do you need to do? If you have said if he said if you said to
leave white areas, you are absolutely correct. And if you also said to
use your eraser to lift up some of the
pencil from the beak to create more light areas. You would also be correct. So really well done guys. And also you can
see that I'm making the edge of the beak quite dark, which looks really nice. It creates a beautiful
contrast against the paper and the
light areas in a beak. Because if you make
an error quite dark and then an
error quite light, that light error will
appear lighter than usual. So I'd never really good
tip technique if you want an area to appear whiter, just to make the area
next to it darker. And it creates a
beautiful contrast. And you'll see me
do that time after time on these sketches. Also by the the beak
meets the head, that is going to be dark. Do you know why? It will be dark?
Because generally not all but most parents, the head will create
a nice shadow effect on the beak where you can
apply your beautiful shading. And also on this week there'll
be lots of opportunity to create beautiful
gradients come from a dark area to a lot era and a light area
up to a dark era. So make use of all the skills you have so many skills now, you can apply it to this peak. And this peak is probably one
of the most difficult ones. I'd say all of them. So if you are happy with how
your shading this current, congratulations, well done guys. I'm so happy. Honestly, I really,
really want to set your projects so please
send your products. I would love to see them. Yet, just keep tapping away
at it to keep adding detail, keep adding some shading, and the results will be
absolutely beautiful. So yeah, keep going. I'm looking forward to seniors. Just like with the
other examples. When we add scratches, they need to be curved. So in this case, the head is
tilted slightly to the left. The beak is rounded,
it's curved. So the top portion of the beak, I'm going to have these
little, these big curves. And at the bottom of the peak, the angle changes because the
beak has changed direction. So you need to make sure you
apply a different angled, curved scratches to that part. So just imagine, just look at loads and
loads of pictures of parents and see how
their beaks are rounded and curved
and your sketches, your lines need to
follow the curves. They cannot be flat, they
can not be straight, otherwise it's not going
to look realistic. So practice getting
the curved shapes. They're lions as best you can. So that's it from the
fruit and nut ITA, we will now be applying
those skills and some extra skills to
now draw a fish eater. I hope you've
enjoyed this video, and I hope you're
looking forward to drain a fish eaters peak. We're almost there guys. Very, very well
done. Let's move on.
5. How to Draw Beaks Pt 4 Fish-Eater & Nectar-Feeder: Welcome to how to draw beak spot for fish eater and
nectar feeder. So in this lesson, I am going to show you
the guidelines and outlines for both fish eater
and the neck defeater. So let's start off
with the fish eater. So first and lots of ones. Let's start off by
drawing our thin circle, which indicates the
widest part of the beak. And then to the left of that, we will begin to draw
our smaller circle, which will be parallel
to the larger one. Now you can also draw a
straight line from the big one, moving to the left,
going straight across. Then from there you can
add your smallest circle. So there's multiple
ways you can do it. You can draw a small
circle without the line, with the line is
down to preference. From here, drag that line out further to where
you want it to end, and then we can move
on to the outlines. So here we want to join the top parts of our
circles together. Opia sloping line
moving downwards towards the peak to
the point at the end. Now for this fish eater, the line at the end, that dust curve downwards
ever so slightly. So curfew line downwards to the center line
that we have made. Then you do the same to the two bottom circles or
join a two buttons circles together and move it upwards to meet the overline you
have previously drawn. Make any tweaks and adjustments
that you feel are needed. Now, on the other end, it doesn't just end flat. The beak actually moves into
the face a little bit and it creates this triangular
structure. At the end. Every bird beak is
different as we've seen with all their funds
we've previously done. So make sure you
pay close attention to the small details. I'm just leaning
on a bit of paper because I don't want to
ruin my other drawing. So if you're in that
same situation, you might want to get
something to lean on. Firstly, z didn't get
pencil on your hand that you don't rub
your hands out. So now I'm going
to draw the head. And we're also going to
throw out those guidelines. Make sure you draw
your small softly. And then I'm going to put
in some shading and detail. Now you know, all the shading
rules does shade and rules. You know, you know, all these shading rules. Now, let's just recap them. For dark areas, apply
more pressure to pencil. Lighter areas, apply less
pressure to your pencil. Use your pencil at
a slight angle to create smooth,
beautiful effects. And work on those gradients. Going from dark areas
and light areas are lighter areas,
the dark areas. And also make sure you
include highlights by leaving white areas or using your eraser to create
those areas too. And don't forget to add
those all-important details. If you are drawing
scratchy marks on the beak because a lot of books
have those scratch marks. Make sure they are
curved because the beaks are not
flat, they are 3D. So what I'm going to do now, I'm going to speed ahead and doing the
shading because you should be comfortable
at this point with the different techniques
and tips I've given you. And then you can think about
what I'm doing, what it was, I'm shading thinker
all she's adding some dark areas or large areas. She's added in some
highlights, some scratches. And she's adding that
beautiful gradient to, you can go straight to 442 to move on to the neck to
fader, if you would like. For the nectar feeders, the guidelines are a
little bit different. This is the one with
the most circles, the most interesting
one that's definitely jumped that one if you want
to watch it now for 42, or continuing to watch me speed, draw the head and shade the beak in and think about
what I am doing. My add in N dark areas like
errors. You know what to do. We are now going to draw the guidelines for
the nectar feeder. So again, I'm going to start with a little
circle this time is so-called skinny little smaller because their beaks
are very narrow. So for example, Hummingbird
would be a nectar feeder. So I'm going to draw
my first circle and I'm going to draw a
straight line going through. And then on the next circle, which is going to be smaller, you can continue
that line through. And then we can draw
yet another circle. And initially I
drew free cycles, each getting smaller each time. But later I decided a full circle would
be better because. I feel like I made
the Big Ben too soon. So I would actually add four circles and you'll see
me correct that in a minute. So you draw your larger circle, your line going through, slightly smaller circle,
a line goes through. So it's one of the
circle line going through and then a tiny
circle at the end. And then that line
curves downwards. Then the outlines, you can
just join the edges of the circles together and they come to a nice point at the end. On the other side
of the beaker has a particular shape
like all birds do. And this time we're going
to draw a forked structure, one moving up and
one moving down. Your hummingbird that
you pick might be slightly different and may
not have a folk structural. So just be aware of that. And remember, always study your reference
images and make sure you're gathering as much
information about that. But as you can, It's here where I start to
look at my reference image a lot more and realize the
beak is bending too soon. Thus why it's so important to get any mistakes iron
now at this stage, because if you've added the
shading and the detail, and you've realized
the beak is slightly too short or too bent too soon, then you're going to
have to rub it all that hard work you did
or that shading. So really at this point, looking at your reference
image as often as you can is the most important step. Here I decided, okay, I think it bent too early because I was looking
at my reference image and I was thinking something
isn't quite right. So I added a full
circle and now I'm so, so much happier with it. It needed a bit more length
to it before the beak curved. So my advice to you
please, please, please, especially during
the guidelines and outlines, check your reference image as often as you can
because you need to get the shape correct before you go on to the shading a detail. Because like I've said
in numerous videos, it will save yourself
a lot of time later. So now I'm so much
happier with this. I'm now going to rub
out my guidelines. Remember, drew your softly and we can begin
to shade the beak. So what I'm going
to do now, again, we've reviewed all the
shading techniques at details and highlights, apply all that
information and tackle your Nectir feeder
but as best you can. So I'm going to speed
the rest of the video. Please. Please watch it till the end because you need
to wash your watch. Now I want you to think
about these things. Where am I using gradients? Where am I apply more pressure and less pressure to my pencil? Where am I adding details? Well, my considering highlights. And where am I making
those slight adjustments? Where am I adding curved lines? So you've got loads of
things going through your head which are
watching this video. Being aware of what am I doing and where
am I applying it? And you can almost try and guess what I'm thinking at that time. So have a go join your Nectir
feeder and your fish eater. And please show
me your projects. I just absolutely love
seeing people's projects. I think it's great
and I love giving constructive feedback
to you as well. I love highlighting all the brilliant things
you've done well. Maybe one or two things that
you need to improve on. And then maybe if
you want to produce another project and show me, That's fantastic with
those improvements. I'm here to help you learn, here to make you better
and improve your skills. I hope you've
enjoyed this course. I have loved drawing these
different bird beaks. And I've really enjoyed
editing these videos for you to let me know
what you think. Give me a review. I always love feedback. I'm always learning
and adapting and improve in my teaching
skills as well. And I just thank you
for being here with me. I really, really appreciate it. Now go ahead, Joe, your projects and
submit one to me. Thank you so much. Bye.
Jessie S., Artist
