Transcripts
1. Introduction: The headshot.
Everyone needs one, but not all are created equal. Hello and welcome. My name is Fynn Badgley. I'm a commercial portrait and fashion photographer
located in Toronto, Canada and today, I'm welcoming you to the only headshot class
you will ever need. Throughout my
photography career, I've taken headshots for actors, lawyers, politicians,
CEOs, and more. The approach to all of these is so different yet so similar. The headshot is not just
your standard portrait. It's something that shows you at your best self and usually
is done to get you work. So ultimately, you want to make sure whoever
is in front of your camera is going to get
more jobs from that photo. But how do you do it? Throughout this class,
we're going to break down every component of the headshot. We're going to talk
about lighting, both natural light
and artificial light so you are ready
for any situation. I'm even including my Number
1 go-to setup for headshots. It doesn't stop there. We're going to
talk about posing, how to make somebody feel comfortable in front
of the camera, and the scientific techniques
that will actually help people look better on camera. Beyond the technical,
I'm even giving you some money-making strategies so that way you can make
bank off of headshots. To wrap it all up, we're even going to be
talking about retouching and some best practices to have
people looking [inaudible]. I'm also including a bunch
of do's and don'ts of headshots so that way
you don't fall into any of the pitfalls that
many photographers do, starting out. I'm even guilty of a
couple of these myself. Now without further ado,
if you're ready to take some great headshots,
let's get going.
2. Defining the Headshot: Firstly, I'd like
to thank you for taking part in this class. Let's start off by defining
the head shot as well as what you're going
to be creating at the end of this class. The headshot is essentially you're putting your
best face forward. It's capturing you looking like yourself in the
best possible way so that people can see
who they're dealing with. Whether you're an
actor, a doctor, a lawyer, somebody working
at a tech company, or even just looking for
new jobs on LinkedIn, you need a great head shot. But the difference
between a good and a great headshot
are in the details, which is what we're going
to discuss later on. For now, let's focus
on the project that you will come away with
at the end of this class. We are going to be taking one headshot of somebody in your life could
be your friend, could be your spouse, could be your sister, your brother, could be
anybody in your life. You're going to take
one headshot of them and describe the situation. Was it natural light?
Did you light the scene? How did you find the process? Provide as much information as you can and I will do my best to give you the most amount
of feedback I can as well. Make sure to chime down
in the discussion tabs if you have any questions
whatsoever because I will make sure to chime in and answer those to the
best of my abilities. Now with that all said,
let's actually go over some things to do
and not to do when both preparing your client for a headshot and
preparing yourself.
3. Do's and Don'ts: The devil's in the details and head-shots
were no exception. There are a bunch
of do's and don'ts that can make or
break a headshot. Let's go through
a little list of things to do for your client. For the person in
front of your camera, you're not really
going to want anything too loud, too busy, too distracting,
that will take away from the focus of their face. Now, that said, it depends on what
the headshot is for, who the person is. A creative headshot
is going to look completely different than
a politician's headshot. For example if I
were a politician, this shirt probably would
not work for a headshot. But if I were a creative, if I were a designer, then it would work a lot better. Actors, creatives, they have a lot more freedom in the expression they
can give on camera, as opposed to say, lawyers, doctors,
politicians, etc. There are a couple
of different camps and it's best to talk with your client to figure
out who they are, who their audience is, what the purpose of their
headshot is so that way you can make sure they are best
prepared for that. If your client is doing
their own hair and makeup, you want them to keep it
quite minimal and light. Think like a no
makeup, makeup look. If you're working
with a makeup artist, tell them you want more
of that no makeup, makeup look or very subtle, something very natural that will translate well on camera
and not be too distracting. This can be nudged
if you're an actor looking for an additional look, which is an additional photo in your packages where you
are more glammed up, you are more bold if
that's the character you're trying to audition for. But that's really the only case that I would suggest
something like that. Unless you're a really bold, creative person and that is
part of your personality, and that is something
you want to show through in your headshot. These are things you can talk
about in a consultation, but the general rule of thumb,
nothing too distracting, nothing too loud, no
distracting patterns, etc. Now for you behind the camera, what you want to do is keep your background pretty
plain and minimal. What I'm doing here is I have a plain white backdrop setup and that's going to be our
main background for today. If you're shooting outside, you want to keep the
background out of focus so you will want to photograph
at a wider aperture, probably somewhere
between F4 to 2.8. You could maybe stop
down a little bit if it's quite bright. But you wouldn't really want
to go too far beyond that as the background will start having too much information and
will become a little busy. There are exceptions to this
for the creative field, you can have different
colored backgrounds or create additional looks with more
dramatic backgrounds, more vibrant backgrounds, if that's something that
your client requests. These are all just
general rules of thumb. That said, on technical side, I wouldn't really photograph at anything wider than a
50 millimeter lens, because at this point you're going to get too
much distortion for a typical headshot
that you're shooting from about the mid section to
the top of somebody's head. If you were doing an
environmental portrait, that's a different
story, but we're not covering those in today's class. This is just talking about
a nice clean headshot, shows your face clean and simple and that's
how we want to keep it. You'd probably ideally want
to be using an 85 millimeter, which is actually what I'm
going to be using today. Now that said, you don't
have to use an 85. You can get away with a zoom or different focal
lengths just I would stay somewhere between 50-135. On the longer end, say like a 200 millimeter lens, you're going to get a little
bit too much compression and it'll flatten the face
a little bit too much, which we don't
really want either. Too much wider than
a 50 millimeter and you're going to start
having a lot of distortion going on in the face, which isn't going to
translate well on camera, it's going to make the
person look a little weird, which is what we don't want. Speaking of don'ts,
more things you will want to avoid is having your client have too
many baggy clothes, that sort of thing where the
clothes just aren't fitted. It's always good to have
well fitted clothing, the seam is at the shoulders, it falls well, it
looks nice on you, it's flattering because it will come across as more
flattering on camera. If ever anything is too baggy, too wide, isn't as form
fitting as needed, you can use a little
trick that we use so much in fashion
photography and that is taking one of these and all you do is you take the excess
fabric at the back, you pull it like so
and you just clip it. What that will do, is it will synch everything in so it looks more form, fitted, although you just
usually want to suggest your client would have
formed fitting clothing so you don't have to do this, but if it ends up happening, this is how you can
fix that in a pinch. Little trade secret
there for you. [NOISE] Something I always
keep in my back pocket. Lastly, headshots aren't
really the place that you want to try out new
lighting or camera techniques. You want to keep it simple. The lighting setup that I'm
going to demonstrate for you, a very simple one light setup. There's going to be
two variations of it, but I can use them for any
headshot and get a clean, great photo of
somebody every single time because that's the idea. I'm not going to be using crazy over the top
lighting setups because that's not what
the intent is for here. There are times where you can add more light and create
a more advanced setup, but it's not the time to play with really bold
dramatic lighting, to bring out the colored gels, to try using a fisheye lens. This is the time to stick
with the basics and get a real clean headshot of
somebody because it's not about the
lighting techniques, it's not about the
camera techniques. At the end of the day, for me, it's about the person on the other side of your lens
and how you can capture them authentically and make them feel comfortable
in front of the camera. All the fun technical bits that us photographers
love to dive into, we'll just put those on
the back burner for now. Talking about
clothing, one thing you'll want to avoid is anything with a very
heavy texture to it. Any really textured
clothing is going to create a phenomenon
in digital cameras, especially that
is called moiree. What this is, is when
the camera sensor picks up the pattern and
if it's too condensed, it will get confused
and then you will start seeing weird patterns show up in the clothing
and we don't want this. Things to avoid sometimes
can be anything that's knit, anything that's ribs, anything that has a
lot of texture to it. Houndstooth is bad
for this as well. These are some things to maybe avoid or if your client comes with a couple
of different looks, maybe those will be ones
that you suggest we leave off to the side
for the time being. Now, it isn't always the case. I photographed ribbed and knit textures before and
never had an issue, but it depends on the
camera sensor and it very much depends on the actual pattern of whatever
you're photographing. Sometimes finer
patterns will come out more, sometimes they won't. It's really on a
case-by-case basis. Now, with all that said, I'm going to jump behind the camera and we're
going to walk through a very simple natural
light setup before we bring out the lights and talk about how we can get a
great one light setup.
4. Natural Light: To start working,
just going to go over the natural light section. We're not going to
worry too much about posing or anything
fancy for this. It's going to be pretty simple. We have a lot of light coming
in through the windows, so we're just going to set
up a standard headshot. Again, nothing too
fancy off the bat, and then we'll build upon
it in the later lessons. I'm joined today by Van Eyck and we're going to go through a
couple of different setups. Honestly, she's done this enough times
where I don't have to really give her any instruction, but I'm still going to as we go through this
so you get a sense of how to actually
direct somebody to be better on camera. She's already in
place. I'm going to set behind the
camera and then we're going to start
working from there. Now, I already know this, but what side do you prefer? We're going to focus on having that side more favorite
to the camera. We'll get a couple other
shots in there as well, just for some variation, especially because
she is an actor. These things are
important to consider, especially in that
she's going to be going for additions
for different characters. She wants to show different
sides of ourselves. It's something that's
important, whereas, for a business professional,
it's irrelevant. Pretty much already framed or up for how she's going
to be standing here. I'm going to be posting all the settings here as we go through the
different photos because I know for some
photographers that's something that they like to look at to see what
we're working with. We've got a lot of natural light coming in through the windows. Honestly, if you have just a room with
some window light, this is a great way to take
a super simple headshot. You can either have
the windows to the side of your
subject like I do here, wrapping around the face or
you can have them behind you, in front of your subject, lighting them that way. Personally, I like taking my headshots more from a horizontal perspective
because it's easier to crop in to
a vertical shot for 8 by 10 if you need to
versus the other way around. Also, something that I
think is important is to tether to an iPad, to a laptop so that
way your subject can see the photos as
they're coming in. It's something that adds
little value to the client and it's something
that I've always noticed is appreciated. First, you're just going to
stare straight on at me. Perfect. Great. You can see the way the
light's coming here. It's creating a
nice side light on her face that wraps around
naturally to the other side, something that you
may want to do if you have Windows to
the side like this, is you can just grab
a little reflector, put it on the opposing
side of her face and just add a little
more light in there. You can see that it just
evens things out a bit. She still has the highlight on the light side of her face, but it's just bringing up the shadows on the other
side a little bit. I'm just giving you some
basic posing instructions so you guys can see
what I'm thinking here. I'm going to go a
lot more in-depth posing in the later lessons
but this is just what we're working with to
start off and just narrow the eyes a little bit
for me. If I move one. Yes, please do. That's something that I
always find is important no matter who your subject is, to ask or you adjust
anything on them. Some people would prefer that
they adjusted themselves. Some people don't care. It's always important
just to have that comfortability with whoever is in front of your camera. It's something that
I really value and it's something that I've had clients comment on that
they appreciate it. We'll take a couple more here. But honestly, for a
natural light shot, this is a clean simple headshot. Now, based on the way the light is coming
through the side, we're not getting as
much light in the eyes. It doesn't have as much as
I would personally like. Especially being an actor, you may want to make things
pop a little bit more. That's when we're actually
going to bring up the lights, change up the vibe a little bit and make things a
little punchier. As well as we have a
little more control of the light in that scenario. Without further ado,
we're going to jump over, get some light setup
and I'll talk through the 1-2 main setups that I use for just about
every headshot ever.
5. One Light Setups: We're going to go
through two different artificial light setups here. Both of these are one-light
setups and it's basically just comes down to personal preference for
whichever one you prefer. The first one we're
going to do is a 45-degree angle
with the light, and then we're
going to do more of a butterfly lighting setup
where it's top right, almost at the forehead
of our subject. Then we can move around
the reflector in different positions to help
even out the face there. To start with,
especially because her best side is on her left, I'm going to light that side, not just favorite to the camera, but I'm also going
to light that side, so it comes across more
prominent and that's more what your eye is
going to be drawn to when you're
looking at the photo. Now for the purposes
of this class, I'm going to be using constant light so we don't have to worry about flashes and settings
and all this stuff, and you can actually
see what the light is doing as I'm adjusting things. Because with flash, it's
a whole different beast. I have another class on that, you can check it
out if you want. But right now we're just focusing on what the
light is actually doing and making the headshot look the best it possibly can. We're just using
a constant light with a nice large diffuser here. This is a lantern-style softbox, I like it because
it gives a nice round catch light in the eyes, so they don't have a weird
square or you don't have the hard edges of something
like an octa box. Then we're just going to keep that reflector on
the shadow side of her face just to bring
that up a little bit and you want to angle it, so you see where the light
is and you catch it and bring it back into the
shadows of her face, even things out a
little bit there. I'm going to jump
behind the camera and see what we're working with. I will absolutely have to adjust my settings
because this light, it's a lot brighter than the ambient light that we're
getting in from the window. Right now we're going
to keep it simple. If you keep your hair back on the one side and just turn
the chair around to me. We can see if we compare this to the natural
lighting setup, the light becomes a
little more flattering. It sculpts her facial
features a little bit better. We're getting a nice
catch light in the eye. It's a little more frontal
than we have a window, and also we can control
it a little better. I haven't raised up
a little higher, so what we're doing
is we're getting a nice little shadow from her jaw here,
accentuating that jawline. We're getting some of the
cheekbone features in there, really accentuating
these natural features that she already has. I can show you if we
take the reflector away, suddenly, the face has a
lot more shadow to it. Now, this might be great, if you want this moody, dramatic headshot,
we don't want that. That's why we're going to
bring in the reflector to bring up the shadows
on the other side of her face and just make
the light a lot more flattering for this
style of headshot. We can see why the difference is important there and
why it's important to actually use a reflector in your lighting setups
because you can easily get away with one light. But you'll often
have to bring up the shadows a lot
in post-production, or you'll have to
play with a lot more to have the face evenly lit. We're still getting enough
dimension where it's not really a flat light at all, nothing is really washed out. But we're also
getting things that aren't too dramatic,
aren't too harsh. You don't really want to be
using harsh lighting here, so I have a very soft
lighting modifier that is close to her face, which is going to create a
nice soft, flattering light. Now that we've gone over
the side lighting setup, we're going to have the
light positioned more near her forehead as a
butterfly lighting setup, and this is going to create
just a more central light. We're not lighting
one side of her face, we're going to light her
entire face in and of itself, and then we're going to
get a nice little shadow under the nose, under the lip. It's a classic great
one-light setup. Then we'll probably thread
the reflector in just beneath to open up some of the shadows under her
chin and that thing. Now you'll notice I am
mostly just working off of a tripod here. I
don't always do this. Sometimes I'll come in closer and probably in the
later lessons when we get going a lot more in terms of different
poses and different looks, then I'll start moving
around a little bit more. But sometimes it's also great to just lock off your
camera on a tripod, and then rather than having somebody stare
through the camera, you're able to
talk with them and having more natural report because they can make
more of a connection to you versus just
looking into the lens. Granted, they should
be looking into the lens for the actual photos, but you can have
more of a rapport with them based on them
being able to see your face. With that said,
now that we've got our setup going
on here I'm going to then jump behind the camera, and we can see the difference
between these two setups, and maybe you can
start to get a feel for which one you
would prefer if you were to take
one setup and use it for just about all
of your headshots. Now I will have to adjust my camera position slightly
because I currently have a reflector and
a stand in my shot, so just same thing, just a little bit of a 45, and then bring your chin round. Chin up just a bit for me. Perfect. That looks great. You can see the difference between the two
different setups there. What I like about this one is it accentuates the cheekbones a little more because
you're getting more of that shadow coming down, versus the side lighting
setup where you have a bit of a different
look across the face. Both of these can be used in entirely different
circumstances and I've even had it before where a client will come to me with a headshot that they
have for their team already, but they add somebody
new to their team. They're like, can you make
this look like everything else that we've already shot with a completely
different photographer, and I have to quickly look
at where the light is, analyze it through,
looking in their eyes, seeing where the light is, and then replicate the
setup and then get a headshot that looks somewhat similar where you can't
really tell them apart. This is a way that these setups, you can rejig them how you need to be able to do something like that if you're
ever in that scenario. You can lean your chin up a little bit like
you did before. Nice. Great. Squint
the eyes a little. Nice. [LAUGHTER] Now we've shown you a couple of great
setups to get a headshot. Whether you like natural light, whether you like
artificial light, whether you want to light
them from the side, from above, and use a
bit of a fill either on the other side or beneath just to lift up those shadows. But honestly, the main thing in a headshot is the
expression and the pose because it will take a good or an okay headshot and
make it a great headshot. It's something that
I put more time into compared to lighting and camera techniques
because honestly, that's the simple part. This is the easy part. The actual communication
with your subject and posing them is what
makes it more difficult. Without further ado,
let's jump over there and show you a couple
of different ways to get different looks out of
your subject and really convey what they're looking
for out of their headshot.
6. Posing the Face: Now we're going to go through the different parts of
posing for a headshot. You may think it's
pretty simple, but you can break it
down in a way that you isolate different parts
of the body to make it more complex in a way
that you can make just about anyone look
good on camera. It's something that
you don't have to be necessarily
conventionally attractive. These are techniques
that I've used on a wide range of people to
make them look their best, and they work with just
about everyone that I found. We're going to go
through some of those. We're going to
break down posture, we're going to break
down eyes, mouth, lips, shoulders, hands, because
everyone always says, what do I do with my hands, and you're going to get
the answer here as well. Just hands. Then we're also going
to focus on creating an overall mood through
how you pose your subject. I'm going to jump behind the
camera and we're going to start going through all of this. Now, something to keep in
mind as you're doing this is how do you want the
person to come across. How do they want to come across? Because a business
professional might hold back some energy that you might
get from a creative, from an actor, from a dancer. We'll start from you standing
at essentially a mugshot. I'm going to have you
stand at a 45-degree with your right shoulder more
towards the background, so your left shoulder
more toward me. It depends on personal
preference and your client, but I usually like to have
everyone standing up. There's a little more
energy that way. Some people prefer to
have people sit on an apple box or an opposing
stool, something like that. But I like standing. Now I'll have you bring your
chin around to me. Perfect. Now, if we're
talking about posture, something that we don't want
is really broad shoulders, and we also don't
want it like you're completely trying to
pop your chest out. Like you're posturing
gorilla or something. You want a dancer pose. Exactly. Now, you already
know how to do this. But something that I'll
often instruct people is, imagine there's a string running from the
top of your head, like right at the
crown of your head, to the base of your spine. You have this nice,
straight even posture. If you're not sure of how to
get your shoulders right, what I'll often get
you to do is bring your shoulders up
towards your ears, bring them back,
and then drop them. That's pretty much a good
resting neutral posture where you're going to look like you're upright,
you're not slouched. Now that we have
posture covered, we're going to go into the
eyes and how you can change up how you look at the camera to convey different emotions
and different themes. First off, yes, you absolutely
want to close your eyes so that everyone thinks
you're asleep or you blinked. Exactly. Precisely. First, give me deer in the headlights. Exactly. Completely surprised. This is pretty much
what you don't want and also what a lot of people do and they stand in
front of a camera. They're like, I am not used
to this. What do I do? Wait. This is the actual face. Exactly. We're trying
to get away from that. We're trying to make our
subjects comfortable, trying to get them in
a more natural state. There's a whole bunch
of little muscles underneath your eyelids
here and we're just going to flex those into what some people may refer
to as the smize. Some people have
different terms for it, but this is essentially
what it is. If you just narrow your
eyes a little bit. It's not a full squint. It's
not anything like that. It's just compressing
them a little bit so you get this nice
confident look. Already, even with
a neutral face, we can see that that
is so much better than the complete deer in
the headlights or this uncomfortable lock
head Completely changes it. Confidence comes from the eyes, but approachability can really come from your mouth
and your lips. We're going to go
through a couple of different ways to express that. Now, most people have a default smile they will go to and they use it
for everything. Because of this, they
don't really vary it up too much and if you
tell somebody to smile, they're going to give
you the same smile every single time. But there's different ways
that you can change this up. A technical way that people
have explained this is by sounding out different
vowels while smiling. But there's also other
ways that you can do it. Basically, if I were
to get you to give me your regular smile,
what would that be? See? Perfect. That's
a great, nice smile. Show the teeth. It's
always a great look. Now if I got you to do
a closed-mouth smile. See? Also a great look. Now you'll notice instinctively
she's already doing this. Some people you may have to
instruct them to as well. She's already paying attention to her eyes and making sure that they come across the right
way while she's smiling. You have it in the mouth and in the eyes because if you're
just smiling with your mouth, it's like when you're
holding a smile for too long and you're waiting for
somebody to take the photo. That's when you just
end up looking super uncomfortable and you're just
playing the waiting game. Yes, Precisely. Have you relax your face. Now if we want a more
neutral expression, there's different things
that we can do here as well. If I just have you do a
complete resting face. Great. Now I'll have you
separate your lips a little bit, like almost if you are to show a little bit of
teeth in-between. Yeah. Perfect. Exactly.
A little bit sly. Then you can also play with your actual direction
of your body. Right now, a good rule
of thumb that I usually have is you stand to about a 45-degree angle to the camera, bring your chin around,
do it like that. But now that we've established a couple of different
ways to move your mouth, you can have a full-teeth smile, a more relaxed
closed-mouth smile. You can have a resting face, you can have something where you're separating your
lips a little bit, you can have a bit of a smirk, you can play with your eyes. Now we're going to
actually change up how we're standing so we
get different looks. We're going to play
with our chin position and change that. Sometimes you might be
looking up a little more, you might be looking
down a little more, and all of these are
going to give you a completely different look. Some people will prefer different sides of
themselves and some of these photos might be
from an angle that they've never even seen of
themselves and they love.
7. Refining Body Position: Where do you want my hair? We've taken a lot with
one side over so we can do them behind now.
This is something too. You can switch up the hair position
and all these things to get different looks so
you have more variety there. Now, something I'm going
to have you do while you're standing is if you take your arms and face your
palms outward like that. Exactly. And what this
does is it just modifies the shoulder rotation so
it just looks a little more flattering on camera and this works for
literally everyone. Something that I've
seen people do if you want it more exaggerated, is you hold your hands up to your sides and you
bring them out like so. But there's a more
comfortable way to do so is just to have them down at your sides and throw them out. I like the resting mouth. Can you turn a
little bit this way? Nice. And something I'll do as well while taking
headshots of people is I like to make a fool of myself
a little bit so that way I can get a genuine
laugh out of them and it's usually after a
good laugh that you'll get a more authentic
smile out of somebody. And I'll get you
to turn a little more this way with your body, and then shun up and
turn a little bit. If I'm here, you have
your chin up and. Over. The exact thing, exactly. You know the thing. And separate your lips a little bit for me. Beautiful. And gives me
just a little smirk. Excellent. Bring your chin around this way a
little bit more. Perfect. Chin up a bit, and give me a resting face. There, the eyes a little bit. And now little more straight
onto me with your body. Perfect. And you can
see even as she's moving is as she comes
straight on with her body, her chin still moves so we're not getting that mugshot look. You want to be
independently moving all of these parts
of your body and directing your subject to move these parts of your body
so you keep things fluid, you keep things moving. It creates a smoother
operation of things where your just one pose flows into the next and
you're just going about it. Something I usually
like to do is I'll have some music going on in the background while we're
doing this, but obviously. [inaudible]. Exactly, give me a
little more to the side. Bring the chin around and
look up a little bit. And now give me the look. Perfect. Chin around this
way just a little bit. Beautiful. And separate your lips
a little bit for me. Turn a little more
straight onto me. And now tilt the head like this. Beautiful. Now give me a soft smile. Perfect. Now give me a big
toothy smile. That's great. Now also to answer the question of what do I do with my hands? Something that I usually do
is just have them either out to the side or down at
the bottom, rotated out. Something that I
try to never do. Jazz hands. I would rather jazz
hands than this, having your arms crossed. Because what that
does is it closes off your body and if somebody
is looking to hire you, looking to work with you, they really probably
don't want you to come across as defensive. And having your arms crossed is a defensive position to be in. Cross your arms for
me, you can see here, [LAUGHTER] the photo just
comes across as defensive, but when you have your
arms crossed like this, it completely shuts you off. Some people feel more
comfortable doing it, but it's because they're in
an uncomfortable situation, and crossing your arms is giving yourself a hug so
your comfort in yourself, which is why a lot
of people go to do it naturally but it's one of my least favorite
poses to do ever of all time. If you can avoid it,
just don't do it. If your client really wants a couple of crossed-arm ones, throw them in there, but I
strongly advise against it. If you're doing a wider shot, you can have them lean on something if they
want to do that. But literally just
standing with your arms at your side for a headshot
is completely fine. You don't need your hands up by your face or anything like that because this is
mainly about your face. It's not about the rest
of you, it's a headshot. Exactly. It's not like
a beauty campaign. You're not going to
have rings everywhere. Precisely. If you
know, you know. And you'll notice I'm
pretty much shooting at eye level with her, I'm not going too much below, because then we start getting into like under-chin action. And then I'm not going
too far up either because not only is it going to mess with the perspective, but it's also going to minimize whoever is in
front of your lens. If you shoot from below, typically you make the
person look more powerful, if you shoot from above, you make them look smaller
and less powerful. When you shoot
them at eye level, you meet them where you're at, and for a headshot
where you're trying to see somebody as they are, that's a perfect spot to be. If you're photographing
the CEO and they want to appear super powerful like they've just conquered the
world, then maybe, yeah, you would shoot them from below, but that would be more so for an editorial or
advertising shoot, not for a headshot. Now, if you've been following
along until this point, you'll be able to
use natural light to the best of your ability to get a great shot whether
using window light. Or something else you can
do is if you're outside, just find a shaded
area and try to keep the brighter spot in
front of your subject. If you're under an
overhang or in shadow, if you're in the shade, try to keep the sun in front of that person so it's going to be lighting them from the front, and that's if you're taking headshots of somebody
outside and if you do, you just want to
have a background that's not super cluttered. But you also have
the knowledge of using multiple different
one-light setups that you can pull out in a
pinch to create a great headshot within seconds. But more importantly than that, you have the tools, you know how to pose
people in front of your camera to get
a great headshot. You can use the different
parts of their body to really create a mood and
get a different feeling, as well as just being
able to make your model, whoever is in front of your
camera, feel comfortable. Now, with all that said, we're going to do some mild
retouching on these photos. So we're going to go into
the edit and do that. I want to give a
big thank you to [inaudible] for all her
help throughout this class. Her information will be linked in the
description down below, so check her out. As well as she is an
actor, performer, dancer, singer, multi-talented,
brilliant individual. So thank you for coming out. And make sure to follow
the rest of the lessons to see not only how to edit the
photos that you've taken, but also how to make
money from them.
8. Image Culling and Global Edits: Now, it's a little bit later, and it's time to get
into the edit and actually retouch some
of these photos. To keep things simple, we only really need
to retouch one photo, and then take the same
principles and apply it to any other photos that we'd be retouching
throughout this shoot. If you have multiple looks, you would just take a
similar edit and do the same treatment
across each photo. Now, different
photographers have different ways that
they like to work, but usually what I would
do is cull through. Essentially, culling
is just going through the good
and the bad photos, taking out the ones
where there's blinking, weird expressions,
people's eyes are half-open, stuff like that. Just taking that out of there
and then narrowing it down to the general ones
that are good, possible, if you will. And then from there, we'll go export those
as a low-res JPEG, maybe with a watermark, upload those to a
client gallery. There's a bunch of different
ones that are offered by different websites and
different services, and then you can send those to your client
where they can go through and pick
however many photos you have for them to pick. And then from there
I will go through, and also have a couple of
my personal favorites, some that I have already
rated in Lightroom. I like using a four-star for a this is really good I
might deliver this one. A five-star is if
they were just like, "I don't really want to bother, you pick the photos." The 5-star may
only be one photo, it might be two, three, maybe five if the shoot
went really well. But I try to save my fives
for really stand-out images. Here, I have a couple of
four-star ones that we see. Some great expression here. Very nice neutral face. Honestly, if I were to pick a couple of
different expressions, this would be a great
one to go with, as well as something like this. Too similar but different
looks that I just love, and then you can see
how you can change up the expression here
from the different ones. I like this a little
bit better than this. I think her chin placements
better the expression. It's subtle, but it's a little
bit better in my opinion, and we're getting more
of the focus on her. I feel like there's a little
bit too much headroom here. I'm not a fan of a
ton of headroom, I like to let it
breathe a little bit, but not too much. And then we can see a little bit of a
smirk pulled in here. I want between a
couple of these. Here, I feel like it's
a little more neutral, and then we've got the nice
teeth smile, which is great. But I feel like this image for
me just really stands out. It just has an overall feeling, and that's what I aim for. You look for technical
things in a photo, but you also look
for the feeling, and I think this image really
gives me that feeling. I'm going to go ahead
and edit this one. Going through, I'm
going to do some basic adjustments in Lightroom, and then we're going to
take it over to Photoshop, do a little bit more, show you some different
techniques if you were to do something on
a photo like this, and maybe a little extra. So we're going to jump
in here, and overall, I think the color correction
is pretty on-point, so I'm not really
going to have to mess around with that at all. I will bring the highlights down a little bit just to
bring back some of that skin tone up here where we get the highlight
from that light position, and then we can bring up the shadows just a
little bit here. Sometimes I'll drag
it farther than I have to and then
drag it back down, so we can more or less
find the edge there. And then I can hit Option
or Alt on the keyboard, click on the whites, and then I can drag
that up until we see what's going to
be blown out there, and I'll just bring it back
down a little bit more. That can give us a
good white point. I feel like that's a little
bit too much for my liking, so I'm just going
to bring that back. We can do the same
with the blacks. When you see that detail. Bring it back a little bit more, and we can do
something like that. Sometimes I'll come in here and add an overall little S curve, take down the highlights, bring up the shadows a bit, and add some contrast in there. It gives it more of that
filmic classic feel. You can see if we
switch that on and off. I think we maybe went
a little too hardcore, especially on the
highlights there. I'm just going to dial
that back a little bit. Now, back up we're
looking at clarity, texture D Hayes or that stuff. I'm not really going to, you can really hit the texture, and you can see all those glorious pores on anyone's skin. I'm not really going to play
around with that too much. Honestly, I think her
skin looks fantastic here so I'm not really
going to need to do much retouching at
all on that front. I'm not going to pull
back the clarity, I'm not going to
do anything like that because it just may end up looking a little bit
weird, in my opinion. And for color grading, if I do anything, I will
keep it very, very minimal. I'm going to try pumping
up the saturation in different areas to see what
her skin tone is like, if it's a little pinky. I'm not really noticing a
lot of pink in her skin. Mine personally has more of it, so I would take the reds and
bring them into the orange. But at this point
for her skin tone, it's just going to
change the lip color, and I don't really want that. I can maybe keep it
a five so any of those really rosy areas are blended in a
little bit nicer, but that's about
all I'll do there. For some general color grading, I like to do this more so with more stylized portraits where you're given an overall feel. I'm going to try a
little something here that I do on some of my photos just to see
what will happen. I'm putting a little bit of
purple into the shadows, not a lot, just a little bit. Then overall, we'll give it a global offset that just warms up the photo
a little bit more. We can see here I'm
not using a lot, the saturation there
is about nine. And if I turn that on and off, you can see it just warms up her skin a little bit and
those undertones give it a nice balance and give
it a bit of a mood that I think works really well
for this particular photo. Her eyes stand out really well. Some people like to brighten
them up a little bit. Me, personally, I think they stand out enough where
I don't really have to, but maybe we'll do that
later in Photoshop as well. I think her hair color and eye color really complement
each other here. I think for Lightroom, quite honestly, I'm
pretty happy there. And then from there we're
going to open Photoshop. We're going to go photo
edit in Adobe Photoshop, and then from there
we're going to do a little more
specific retouching, which is what I usually
use Photoshop for anyways. We're going to do a little bit of highlight
and contouring, and maybe some minor
skin retouching as well.
9. Retouching in Photoshop: Now something I'll
usually do with more fashion or stylized
portrait photo shoots is all do what's called frequency separation for
the skin retouching. But I don't really know
if I need to do that here her skin is looking really nice. I might just come in here with the healing brush
on a new layer and then I'm going to
do is use content aware up here,
sample all layers. Then I'm just going to go over any little spots on the face
and just clean those up. This is just a really quick way to take some of these out. It's not anything
that's too intensive. I don't like going hardcore because I find usually
with headshots, it's not really what
you want to do. Anyways you want
to keep it pretty natural and true to
how the person looks, so that way, whoever
is booking them, whoever is hiring them, it's like what you
see is what you get and the only thing
you're mitigating is just little skin things that come and go,
something like acne. If you have a flare up or something like
that as everyone does, this is just a way to take
that down a little bit. Got a little something
just down here. Little red spot
there. That's fine. You can take that
out spot there. It's nothing crazy. It's just a little bit, I want to keep it really
natural and light here. I'm not going to really do
a ton of skin retouching. Something here, Van Eyck
mentioned that her hair, she has been getting
it colored and recently her roots have been growing in and they're
a little darker. We're going to actually
re-color those roots so they look like how she would more likely be to arrive at an audition or
something like that where her hair is
more likely to match. We can do this rename
our previous layer skin. Then this new layer will be hair color spelled with a
U because I am Canadian. Then we can come in here B for the brush tool on the keyboard and we're going to
hit Alt or option. That brings up our
color picker and then we can click on the hair color, which is going to
select it down here. You can see it's pretty close. Then with a very low
flow, high opacity. Opacity means every
pass, every click of it. Every click of the mouse
you do is you paint over anything that's going to add that percentage in versus flow, adds it in as you
brush back over it. You can do one
continuous click and brush it back over time. That's what I'm doing here.
You can see that's one pass. Then I can pass
over and again and again add more of it in there. What I'm doing here is I'm just painting over areas
where that color is currently lacking so you can see some of the root areas here. Little darker spots
along the route line. I'm just painting over
it and don't worry. I know it looks
really bad right now. It doesn't look anything
like how it should, but we will fix that in
T-minus about 15 seconds. We've gone over there, maybe we can do a
little bit down here, just looking for any areas where we might meet more of it. Then we're going to come
to our blending mode, which is where it says normal. Then we're going
to change that and we are going to go to color. We can see immediately that
blends in really well, but I'm just going
to take it down a little bit on
the opacity so it blends in nicer and it's not
just a stark pure color. We can see that
blends pretty much seamlessly with the
rest of her hair here, which is a lot closer to what
you would get in real life. I can maybe take it then
just a little bit more. We can see clicking
it on and off. It's just like, oh that's the color that it
should naturally be. Now some things that we can do is enhanced different
features in her face. To do this, we're using what I like to call a highlight
and contour layer. This is my fancy way of saying
dodging and burning and dodging being brightening areas and burning being
darkening areas, now there is a Dodge
and burn tool. There's different ways that
you can do this I just use a brightening curves layer
and then you can hit Command or Control,
Delete on that. Then you can do a darken one. Again Command or Control Delete, and that inverts the layer, makes it black, and
then you can just paint white where you
want it to show up. We'll do highlight
and we'll do contour. If any of you are familiar with makeup or anything
like this at all. This is what people do on their face to
enhance these features. Anyways, Van Eyck
has a little bit of that highlight here that you can see reflecting that light, a bit of contour there as well. That's what we're going
to play off of here. We're just going to
enhance that a little bit, increase our brush size. Whenever you have the
brush, you can just do a right-click and that
will bring that up. Again, we're keeping
a low flow here. I like about anywhere
5-10 percent. Just gently brushing that over, we can come up here to
the temples as well. You want to go cheekbones, temples, jaw line, maybe
the bridge of the nose, and maybe in the
eyelid itself are the few areas that are naturally shadow
points of the face. You can just increase. I'm going to put this on
a little bit heavy and then I will bring it
back momentarily. I just come in here, emphasize that a little bit there and the other eye as well. I don't want to forget that. We just bring it across
the bridge of the nose. We can see that just adds a
little more dimension there. I'll take that opacity down
to less than 50 percent. We can see it still keeps it
pretty light and natural, but it just enhances these
features a little bit. Maybe bring that
down a little more. Then we go in here with
the highlight layer. Then the different
things that we highlight here are
the high points. The chin, the cheekbones, the upper jaw line, the lips, the bridge of the
nose not the sides of it. You can do over the eyebrows,
under the eyebrows, stuff like that to enhance
those a little bit. I'm going to paint
over here just gently come over to her lips. Paint that on just a little bit. Now you don't have to do
this for your head shots. You don't have to come in
and retouch quite like this. You don't have to
emphasize these features. I'm going to add a
little bit just to the irises here to make
that pop a little bit. Something, if you have a
keen eye, you will notice. Is that currently volcanic
is wearing contacts. You can see them right here. That little line on her eye. Unless you zoom in
like I just did, you won't really notice that. But when you're taking
headshots of somebody, if they naturally wear glasses, it's best to get
photos of them wearing glasses because that's
how people know them. This is especially the
case for businesspeople, for lawyers, doctors,
for entrepreneurs, CEOs. If you wear glasses,
it's best to have your photo with glasses on. This goes for creatives as well, unless you are an
actor, dancer, a model, anything where you're
being booked to portray another character of some kind
to morph your being a bit. In that way you can have an option where you
have your glasses on. But as a general thing, you usually want to have
them off because they're not necessarily booking you because you wear glasses or not. It's better just to show your plane face
because the chances are that character probably
won't wear glasses. Keep that in mind. Generally, actors probably not. Anybody else, yeah. If they wear glasses,
keep the glasses on. If you want to know how to
avoid glasses reflections, it's actually remarkably easy. All you do, even if you
have anti-glare lenses, like I do in these, all you have to do
is make sure that the head isn't tilted
up towards a light. If I have a light right
here just out of frame, if I'm staring towards that, chances are I'm going to catch
some of that reflection. Just pulls and face a little
bit away from that light. This is where maybe the sidelight is a
better lighting setup. Then if that doesn't quite work, bring the chin
down a little bit, or just take those
glasses and take them down the bridge of the
nose just a little bit. Not so much that they're
blocking the eyes, but not right up top, just a little bit
so they will block that overhead light
and then you won't get any reflections whatsoever. Then we're just going
to come over here, get the brow bone. That's the bone where your
eyebrow is just above your eye socket and then we can just round out her
forehead a little bit. Blended in with that
highlight there. I want to contour her hairline
just a little bit here. I'll take that highlight down
as well.. Just like that, we have a quite honestly
fantastic headshot we can do. If you want to hold Alt or Option on the keyboard and
click on your bottom layer. You can do a quick
before and after and all that does is just
enhance the face. Now, like I said, you
don't have to do this. But if you want to judge, up to the head
shot a little bit, or if you have a client that
wants a little bit of that, then this is a way
to do that as well. If you're looking for more
intensive retouching, I have a couple of different
portrait classes on here, mainly the photographing
and posing models, I believe has an element of frequency
separation in there, as well as different
one light setups for portrait photos. I think both of those have some frequency separation
tutorials in there. If you want to check those out, if you're looking for more
intense skin retouching. But if you're just
looking to keep it simple then this is really
all you have to do and maybe I'll
just come in here and brighten up that under
eye just a little bit. Overall that's
looking fantastic. Something else we can do that
I'm just noticing as well. We can tidy up just a couple of these flyaway is now because
this is a plain background, we can just hit B
on the brush tool. Hit Alt or Option
on the keyboard, click the background,
get the same color, grab a larger sized brush, maybe add some
higher flow to it, so it's just going to be
a little more intense. Then we're just going
to paint over loosely these little flyways just
to straighten that out, make things look a
little more seamless. Just like that, we have a fantastic headshot
of the Van Eyck super big thanks to her
for being in front of the camera and creating
some great expression, some great photo
and really helped to round out this
class as a whole. Now that we've talked
about how you can take your head shots from
looking here to here let's actually talk about
the real important thing, how to make money with them.
10. Final Thoughts: First and foremost, I
want to thank you for making it to this point in
the class. You've done it. You have all the tools to take a great headshot to go out
there and start making bank with portrait
photography and some super simple
set-ups to keeping your back pocket to take better
photos every single time. Headshots are something that I love as part of my business, you get to interact with people in a real and authentic way and capture them as who they are
and who they want to be. Now you have the tools
to do just that. If you enjoyed this class, make sure to follow along on
my Skillshare profile as I'm always adding new classes
regarding lighting, photography, cinema,
and so much more. If you have any questions, make sure to pop down
in the discussions down below as I'll be sure to answer them to the
best of my abilities. Don't forget to submit
your project of your one headshot from
anybody in your life. Use natural light,
use artificial light, use whatever you have to take a great headshot and remember
those posing techniques. Also, if you're not
tired of me talking by now and you want
to hear more of it, you can go over to my YouTube and subscribe
there where I'm sharing a bunch of different
photography lifestyle and mindset videos as well. Now, with all of
that out of the way, I want to thank you
from the bottom of my heart one more time and I hope this provides an immense
amount of value to you. Thank you for spending
your time with me today. Work hard, rest often. I hope you have any
super creative day.
11. Bloopers: You ready for your moment? Oh, yes. Now? Yeah. [NOISE] Sometimes you
have a cat in your studio. I've pretty much
already framed her up here with where
she's going to be standing [NOISE] for a 8 by 10 if you need to versus
the other way around. [NOISE] [LAUGHTER] I'm going to sneeze. Well, I sneezed now. Perfect. [LAUGHTER]. [inaudible] keep doing this. No, it won't take
long doing this, it will take long
when I edit it. [LAUGHTER] The light
in that scenario. Without further ado,
we're going to jump over, get some light setup and
I'll talk through the one to two main setups that I use for just about
every head shot ever. Look. [LAUGHTER] Oh God, my work here is done. Great. [LAUGHTER] [inaudible]
I'm a comedy genius. There we go. Face forward. My
work here is done. I know. Let's see. Did I just
completely screw myself. No, I didn't. Nice. Is it me [inaudible] You look like you're working
on a ****. [LAUGHTER] Think Gilderoy Lockhart.
[LAUGHTER] [NOISE] Just scooch over
this way for me a little bit, just so
you're in your light. You're now on the other
side of the light. Back, split the difference. Yeah. Right there.
Perfect. [OVERLAPPING]. [inaudible] Now you see a cute dog
walk across the street. Dog. I want ice cream. [NOISE] It's like
almost cinematic, but it looks like a bird. [LAUGHTER] The people at
Skillshare don't have to know. Exactly. You don't have to know this. But they will be able to tell. No, they won't. [LAUGHTER]. Like we'd let them. [LAUGHTER] Anyways, I know you did because
you know how to express and you're
very expressive. You're very good at that. Everybody says that about me. I said it first, quite honestly. Sure. One photo? [NOISE] Nice. Now that we've gone through how to work
with natural light, how to work with
artificial light, you have multiple one light
setups that you can pull out in a second to get a great head shot no
matter where you are. It's because you didn't notice, but the all time you were
talking it was growing. [OVERLAPPING] It
made me shorter. [LAUGHTER] Well, I;m not the one making
shenanigans now. Hi, cat. Two seconds later. You can hold it if you want. [LAUGHTER] What even is continuity?