Fusion 360 Design for 3D Printing.

1. 01 Introduction: Hi, and welcome to this fusion, three-sixths for 3D printing costs. So this course is all about using Fusion 360, aimed at those who wants to 3D print their designs. So it's not beginners fusion, cos, it does assume you have a basic knowledge of fusion, which you can do on a beginner's costs. Really, I'd say this is an intermediate costs in terms of fusion. We're going to look up how to use it specifically with the aim of 3D printing your output. Okay? So it's not going to, it's not going to show anything infusion like CNC or anything you don't need. It's not going to look at creating dimension joins to send to people. Since we're not doing that, we're just designing and then sending it to a 3D printer. So rarely this course is aimed at those who have, who have a 3D printer and have maybe downloaded some models. The know-how to use the 3D printer, know how to use a slicing software. But no, the whole process of getting a model to the 3D printer and outputs. But maybe they want to progress now to create my own designs. And that might be server can sell them, maybe start a small business, or just to be able to have that ability to create items around the home. Having a 3D printer and something like fusion three-sixths and the ability to use it, it just opens up so many opportunities to create household items rather than buying them and having them shipped across the world. It might be an adapter like this, a simple adapter for your vacuum cleaner. It might be an enclosure for something like a circuit board, maybe your own phone case. You can print these over and over again. And you might paint them or your kids might paint them, throw them away and you just print them over. Maybe a simple atom like this, which we're going to show how to create them. This cost, this is for a guitar. Anyone who plays guitar or bass knows that they tend to slide along the wall if you just leave them against the wall, which you shouldn't ever do. This, allows you to fix it into there and stops its side. And a simple item modeled infusion, maybe 20 min, hour-and-a-half to print amigo. You don't need to buy anything like this once you've got a 3D printer and the ability to use fusion, we're going to start off with some basic items such as phone cases and enclosures. And we're going to move on then to looking at connections. Sometimes you'll want your items to be split down just to make them easier to print. These are sections from this large scale model rocket designed infusion and 3D printed. Obviously, you don't want to print something out. You can't print something about big on most printers. So I like to break our models down into manageable parts. If you do break things down, you need a way of fixing them together. So we've designed connections that might be a tight fit connection, which you can then glue to make it more permanent. It might be a bolted connection. So in this case, we'll look at creating connections where you can have what's called a captive bolt, which will sit inside. So there's actually a whole designed in the shape of a nut which will sit in there, which will avoid you having to put anything on the other end of it and it will keep it tight while you screw that anti-K. We'll look at those in more detail. Also look at how you can create your own fretted nuts and bolt infusion and print it out and what you need to look for in order to make it work. You'll see this is actually a 3D printed bolt with vanilla. And it works so you can use that, you can create those. So in this course we're going to be using the creativity and the free printer as our example. So this is the kind of entry-level printer. A lot of people have these. It's kind of a DIY print. It comes as a kit and you put it together and many of them have been modified resolves a few modifications, very popular. So it was the ideal printer to use as the basis of this course. But again, don't worry if you have a different printer, okay, this isn't about your printer. It will be impossible for me to go into how to set up every single printer. The cost will be way too long and way too boring. So I'm going to assume you know how to use your printer, you know how to print to it. And this will be more about the fusion for 16. But we will be using these as the example just because we're a popular printers. So it's the ideal one to use, okay. In terms of filament, we're just gonna be using standard PLA. Not going to be printed 20 special filaments. If you have a resin printer for principles of this course will be the same. You probably just using smaller objects rather than the large ones will be printed. So again, it's a Fusion 360 costs aimed at 3D print them. We're not going to go too in depth fonts, specific printer types. I just wanted to show you what we're using. Many of you will be using the same print to the end of three, so that'll be fine. But if you're not, don't worry. As I say, this is more about fusion. So we'll look at all that in the course. But before then, we need to all make sure we're all on the same page. So let's just go ahead and set up some basic options and settings infusion, just so we're all working together. 2. 02 Setup: Okay, so we're infusion. We've started with software. I just got a blank screen. If you don't have vase, if you if you Okay. So we're infusion, we've stashed out, we've got a new untitled project and a blank screen. Okay. So let's start with a okay. So I just want to make sure that we're all, we all have the same preferences first, okay? Now, this cost will be, we will be working in millimeters in this course. I appreciate people in different parts of world work in different things. You might be more used to work in inches. It's going to work the same. Okay. Again, this isn't a beginning Fusion costs you used to work in wherever you work in albion millimeters, feel free to work in whatever you want. But the principles are all going to be the same. So you will be able to follow no problem. If you want to follow on exactly what I'm modeling, just have it open on the side to convert millimeters to inches if you want, or just work in millimeters. I suggest you probably worth just working in millimeters for the cost. And then going back to your own after you've followed through with the cost. Okay, so I notice a change that you can go to this default units and design. We're not going to be rarely work in InDesign. So you can change those 2 mm. The other thing I want to change on here, you notice we have, our default is visit axes up. Most people are know using Fusion, prefer it that way. You can change that under Preferences General. Okay, so you have the option why up on setup is probably the most commonly used version. Again, is it English? And you shouldn't need to change anything else really, you might want to change the automatic recovery backup just to save yourself. Fusion does crash. We all know that. Yeah, I'm pretty much all you should need to change. I think it could have design history on as default. But apply that. And now we're all basic screen. We can start to just go through a few of the basics and remind ourselves on fusion. So really in this call someone with 3D printing, we tend to use, or most of the stuff we use Ms cost will be Solid Modelling, sketch-based extrusions and models, that kind of thing. Which hopefully you're all familiar with. Again, good practice is always right-click on the top and go to new component and then type in name. Even if you've only got one kind of body drawing, I recommend you get used to doing it this way. It just makes it so much easier. Part one. And now you have your part here with its own origins and planes under there. So it makes it a lot easier to do things like any copying. It makes it a lot easier to do any kind of copying you might wanna do. And just to get those. But good file management going rather than have it all in the top level. I mean, obviously if you will save that as an example. In fact, what we will do, Let's just create a new project. We'll call it Fusion 360 for 3D printing. 3d printing. Let's give ourselves a new project. And that way, when you save it as a name. Now we're all working in our own project folders follow-on because we have a file of a name and we can start working underneath that. So that is what I think many other uses kind of use as the best way to start off each project rather than just going ahead as fusion starts. Always working in this kind of top level. And then it just, it's not always working with top-level. It's not a neat way of doing it. So if you get used to starting a flight, that that'll help you going forward. So now let's get cracking. Let's model something and send it to our printer 3. 03 YourFirstPart 01: So we've all been okay. We've got a vacuum cleaner and we've gotten nozzle off a different vacuum cleaner and we want to use this, but it doesn't fit different diameter pipes, okay. Usually we won't be able to use it. But we have fusion free and we have a 3D printer. So these things aren't a problem. Okay, So one thing you probably want to invest in, and it's good to have if you're gonna be doing any kind of Fusion 360 design, especially for 3D printing, is a good set of these digital calipers were not expensive, but you will use them a lot. And we're going to use these, demonstrate these now insolvent our problem with this adapter. They generally have a few different ways of measuring. We're going to look at these two here. So this is far outside areas such as this outside diameter here, which we can just measure easily. We can look at our readout and it's 31 mm. We then use this side to measure an internal diameter. And in this case we'll use our adapter. We want that's too large. And we just use that to measure the internal diameter, which is 35 mm. So I'll make a note of that. Now, it's important to remember we're not using precision instruments here with these 3D printers are so many different things with a filament and the extruders, that kind of thing. But they're not gonna be exactly, don't expect to create something. Model it. And it prints out exactly to the decimal place in millimeters how you wanted to. There's gonna be some trial and error with 3D print them as always trial now and things are in terms of fitting and connections. So even though we've measured this is gonna be a starting point and we're going to want to, we find that we might end up printing a few different versions. Here's the finished example of what we're going to make. It probably takes over an hour to print. If we do that every time and then okay, it doesn't fit. We throw it away. We're wasting time, we're wasting filament. So what I like to do is always look up the connection, any connections we need first, and then just model a small piece to that size and test any connections. And that's something we'll do throughout the course as we get into bigger things as well. So in this case, I'm going to take those two diameters we just measured. I'm going to create a small, just a small ring we can then use to test the fit. Okay, so let's start a new file. New design. Just close my first one. I'm going to save this and I'm going to call it that adopter. And it's in our project folder we setup. So I'm going to save that. And now this changes. I'm first thing I'm gonna do is create a new component called adopt. We're ready to go. So we have two dimensions here. We have two diameters, 31 mm, I'm 35 mm. So let's just create a simple sketch on this plane using this center point circle. And we want our first piece to go over the end of a vacuum which is 31 mm diameter. So if I was to try 31.5, that would give us 0.5 mm tolerance. So I'm going to offset from there the thickness we want. And I'm going to say our thickness, we just wanted to millimeter. It's certainly an adapter. So we're going to go with a millimeter. I'm going to finish that sketch and then I'm going to extrude. I'm just going to extrude 10 mm. And that's it. That's all I want. I don't want to be creating a whole model just yet. I want to test this connection. Now I don't have mine set up to send to 3D print. If I just show you about infusion, you do have this kind of manufacturer. And you can say, where are additive. So you can sell your 3D printer and do all your slicing them things. Now, I don't, I don't really know anyone who does do that with fusion. Fusion is a design program. It's great for doing the design. But in terms of slicing and sending it to a 3D printer, most people will use a separate piece of software for free. I use the ultimate ultimaker Cura. Have a way to get it into the slicing software. If we go to a part we want to send we right-click and go to Save As mesh. And it's got your selection, it's chosen your selection. Among this format here you want STL, you'll notice this free STLs always choose binary unit type. It's the same unit as we worked with, in this case millimeters. And they always have refinement as high. That's the only thing I do with, again, we're not sending it direct from fusion. Click Okay, and save it where you want. Next going to use slicing software. So let me STL file and it will bring it in. And then do slicing. And you'll see it's only going to take 10 min. So at this point, once you bring it out with fusion, It's just like any other 3D print model that you've downloaded or however you get it to you freely prints. Okay. I'm going to save this to my stick. I'm not sorry, I used to transfer and then let's see it print. Okay. So that's printed on all we've printed is a small ten millimeter part of this adapter. We haven't printed the whole thing, but we don't know if it's going to fit yet, so don't waste time and filament printing the whole thing. Just a section of it. And that section is about what we want and our connection. So we can test this now and it's, it does fit. It's quite a tight fit. I'd actually like a bit more leeway there just so it slides on a bit a bit less far as I know, that's gonna get broken in no time. Okay. So I'm just going to add, I'm probably going to add another point. I'm probably going to have a fraction of a millimeter to that just to make it better. Okay. So I'm back in Fusion and all I need to do, we've got our design history turned on so I can just right-click onto our sketch and go back here. And all I need to do really is it just this? I'm going to go with 31.75. Okay. About and everything else will update. So all I need to do now is exactly the same process. I'm going to save this mesh. Leave that as it is now. I'm going to save over that. Yes, I do. Go back to my slicing software. I'm going to hit Delete. I'm going to bring it back in again. And you'll see you can check the time, make sure it's the latest one. There we go. Now I just need to slice and print it again. Okay, So we have our new part printed now and we'll test it with our vacuum cleaner. You can see that slides on much better. That's exactly the kind of fit we want. The other piece was a bit too tight. So we now have this one ready. We've worked out our diameter for this side of it. And it was a piece that only took 10 min. Okay? So now we're going to take however pace and we're going to work out the other side of the adapter and the best-fit for the inside of the. Let's head over to fusion now and do that 4. 04 YourFirstPart 02: Okay, now what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna create another model. And it's basically the same thing. But I'm going to create on top of here. It's going to be the diameter here. Now we know before that to get a piece fit nicely on top of a diameter of 31. We used 31.75, so we used a 0.75 tolerance to get a nice effect. So we'll use that as a guide and see if it fits the other way. This time we're going internally. We're going internally inside the diameter of 35. So 0.75 fit, that will work out at 34.25. Okay. I didn't quite follow, don't worry. It will become obvious when you see it. Then, because we're inside this time, we're going to offset one minus one. Sorry to go inside. So I'm going to finish our sketch. And again, I'm going to, I'm going to extrude, make sure you pick the right kind of lines there. Okay, so we had these two. But make sure instead of join, we're going to say new body. Okay? And we've done 2 mm. So all okay, that you can see we already have this adopt a shape here. We've got two diameters which are intersecting. So now we want to test, we only want to test this one so we can go to Select, we can change our selection priority to select bodies. And that will allow us just to select this body here. We can go serve as mesh. Again, keep everything the same. And let's call that adopted two. And we'll save that. We can then go to our slicer software, bringing it up to two, slice it and send it to our printer. Okay, so we have this printed. I'm a first test is very, very low, so that's obviously not good enough. It needs to be much more signs of fit on that. So, but diffusion, again, it's only take 10 min to print with test piece, so it's no big deal. So you can see, you can go to our second sketch here. And obviously this needs to be dealt, right, perfect. So let's go now. Sometimes fusion does this. It's not letting me click that. It's because of a filter. Basically. Sometimes get a filter on. Fusion likes to try and guess what it thinks you want to do. Sometimes a lot of time it gets it right, sometimes it gets it very wrong. Here. You can either click on your sketches or sometimes just select all swat tend to do. And now we can select it and I'm going to go up to 3,040.75 for this. Okay. I'm going to finish that sketch. I'm gonna, I'm gonna do the same thing. I'm going to make sure slept in our bodies. Right-click save as mesh. So that adapts it to bring it back in slice. So let's test this now. And yeah, okay, I'm happy with that. So now we've got both are diameters we need. We can go ahead and make the actual piece itself infusion. Okay, so fairly simple job now we're just going to extend both of these extrusions. And we can just right-click on the feature because Edit Feature, and I'm going to make these 30 mm. Okay, then we have our adapter. But one thing I want to show you if we go to Inspect, I'm going to do a section analysis. If you don't, if you haven't used this tool before, It's a very good tool. You click on a plane and you want a plane that's going to cut through the object. So in this case it would be that one. It lets you do a section for as if you've got a knife through butter zero. And then if we look on this plane here, you can see we have a 1 mm thick wall and the two different diameters I'm not really happy with this bit here that you've got a weak point. If you imagine this is 1 mm, this is 1 mm. You've already got kinda 0.5 millimeter. And know that it's going to end up snapping along this line here because there's not enough strength. Now, looking at this, I'm going to print this kind of upside down. Okay, so it's going to be printed like the large diameter wants to be on the bottom. And then it will step down and print a small diameter on top. So really what I want is a bit is for these two to overlap more. We can do about, we can just edit this feature, we can add. Let's make that 35. Okay, so you'll see that's longer now. And then on this one, we'll edit this feature and instead of one side will have two sides. And we'll make this five will. Okay? So if we just turn this analysis, when you do an analysis is cross-section. It puts it in a pair into your file and you can turn it on and off. So it looks the same. But we can see from our analysis we've now got this overlap. Okay? So we've got a bit of strength vary. It's not going to snap along that weak point. But again, I'm going to, I'm going to be printing this with the larger diameter bottom. And you're always thinking about how the 3D printer is going to cook it. You don't want any overhangs. Myth case. I know my Friday predict would be fine without it. It would be fine just doing that kind of overhanging side, but it's good practice to not do that. And the way I like to kind of make sure you're not gonna get lots of stringing and lots of not very good edge that is to chamfer it. So I'm just going to put a chamfer on that corner. Let's go back to this view. I'm going to do it by eye. In fact, it's probably 0.5. Okay, so now we have a nice kinda transition up to that thicker portion and our 3D printer won't have any problem where you don't really need them outside because your printers just going to step down there. Let's turn that analysis off. And that's our part. And now I'm going to go Selection filter instead of soy priority instead of body. I'm going to go to component. And now we select the whole thing. We just do our normal Save As mesh. Okay. Let's overwrite that adapter. Yes, go to our slicer, bring it in. And I'm going to turn it around. So again, you slice it might work differently to mine. Lay it flat with the larger diameter on the bottom. I'm going to slice it. So now we can take our vacuum cleaner, our adapter. It's problem-solved facts diffusion for six days and our 3D printer 5. 05 GuitarHolder 01: Okay, So every guitar player, bass guitar player knows this problem. You lean, you guitar up against a wall. You can't get it to stand up, right? You finally do. And then 5 min later you're going to reverse the chair into it and you're going to hear an almighty crush. Not good. So what we're going to do, we're going to model infusion and 3D print a bracket that'll Gama wall, which will hold the neck of the guitar up bright and stop it from being knocked over. Kind of thing you might want in your house is just an example of the way we can use fusion and 3D printed to just quickly print something that we need, not save money and waiting for deliveries by not having to buy something lies. And although this is a basic model, you can personalize it how you want. You can write on it. You could do a logo on it, anything, you could have a different shape altogether. Service is just an example. But if you'd like to follow along, feel free to change it and change the look of it. And then I'd love to see any that you come up with. So let's have a look at. So I've started a new project here. We've got a blank screen. Again. I'm just gonna do some, some good, good practice. We'll save it first. I'm going to call this base base holder. If you all don't forget. Instead of a bass guitar, you might call it guitar holder, call it wherever you want. It doesn't really matter. I'm going to save this. I'm going to right-click and I'm going to say new component just so we're not working in the top part of the project and just gonna call it holder. So now we're working down here rather than up here. Again, just good practice. So I have a rough idea of this hold-up. And you can follow along and we'll model it as we go along. And I'll just explain what I'm doing. So first thing I'm gonna do is create a sketch. And I'm going to cram to this plane. Now. Those of you who are experienced fusion users know and perhaps you've learned through mistakes rather than learning. But it's a good lesson to learn. You always want to model around the center point where possible. So this is the origin. And if you turn on the origin, you can see you've also got your Plains, your x, y, z planes. And if you want to model around those with, with that some point in the center of your model, where possible. It's not always possible. Way you can, you want to do it. So we're going to start this off with a rectangle. And you'll see a lot of people go on rectangle and click there for the bottom-left point and then that becomes the rectum. But you're not work in symmetrically around the origin, then it makes, it makes your life a bit harder as good practice to try and work around the origin way it can, which is why fusion has this center rectangle to make it easy for you. So you click that. And now it will, it will use the origin as the center point of your model. So we want this rectangle to be faulty. And then we'll press Tab to go across to the next 140 by 75 for some reason I didn't put that in. Put four. So 40 by 75 again, use Tab key to move across. You'll see that it's locked now. And the midst rectangle around the mid point. I'm going to finish that sketch. And then we're going to extrude that. And we're just going to extrude that 10 mm. Okay, so that's the basic part of our model there. But doesn't look very good. It's not exactly going to hold anything up. Let's make it look better and make it more useful. I'm going to do a, let's do I'm going to fill it. And I'm going to choose these four corners. And I'm going to make this 15 mm, nice, some nice rounded corners. And then the top edge, I'm going to do the same with a cook on my edge. And let's make this 5 mm. So it's already looking a lot better than just a plain rectangle. And that is our base. Now I'm gonna do is sketch. I'm gonna do it on the top of here. I'm gonna do another center point rectangle. So again, we're working around with origin. And this time I'm going to make this rectangle AT press the Tab key 15. I'm going to okay that I'm going to finish that sketch. So this is gonna be kinda the arms either side of this plate, but I want it because we 3D printed it will extrude it from there. I'll print to a, would have to do all sorts of supply and it'd be weak. I just want this sketch to both protrude this side a bit, but also go back to the wall. This plate will be posted on the wall. So we can do that. We'll go to Extrude. Let's select our shape there. And instead of one side, I'm going to go two sides. So side1, instead of distance, it's going to go to object, and it's gonna go to that phasor. Now fusion is taking a guess because we're going inside another body. It's saying we want to cut. We don't want to cut. We want to join. But side2, we want this to just protrudes outwards here. It will be minus five. Okay? I might gives us this. Um, so now I'm going to fill in these deceased bottom corners here. Just put a bit of a curve on them, five. And this is something that's worth doing. Looking at this model, I've got this big flat area here is we're going to have no problems with this model not sticking to the bed. We might have a problem getting the alphabet. And if this was just completely flat edge all the way round, we'd have no where to get under the, under the model. So sometimes I like to put in where you can, we've got two curved edges now we could get at all under there and kinda prize it off the print bed. So again, when you're designing for 3D printing, you think about these little things, but it comes from experience. But if you can put a little chamfer, I'll fill it in your model somewhere. I recommend it 6. 06 GuitarHolder 02: Okay, so now I'm going to do a sketch on top of this area here. This one is going to be a circle, centerpoint circle. And if you hover your cursor over somewhere, if you hover over, Connie, get this blue square. That's telling you you snap into the corner. If you click with that square on, it will go exactly on that corner. What I want is the midpoint of this line. You see you get a triangle, that's the midpoint, but I'm not going to click because I don't want it there, I want it in line with that. So what you do, you move your mouse so that comes up and then you move your mouse in the direction and you can just see it as a blue dashed line. So wherever I click now, it will be in the center. So I'm just going to clip. And then I'm going to make this a diameter of 15. Okay? Now, I want, I wanted that center point is fixed now on that, on a midpoint here, but it's not fixed anywhere in this direction. And we can do that by including a dimension, a dimension from the center point to that line. And I want it to be 7.5. So half the diameter, which means this edge fits perfectly now along with that edge there. So I can finish that sketch. And now I can say extrude, I'm going to extrude that 70. Okay, so now we get this arm here. Now I want to tidy this up a bit, make it look a bit better. So I'm going to extrude both sides and I'm going to cut them just by eye. It looks a bit neater. But don't like this. I don't like this plane, but on the end, we know this is a 15 millimeter diameter. So if we click this edge and we do a fill rate of 7.5, we get nice bowl-shaped on the end. We want one on the other side. We're not gonna go through all that again. We know that you don't repeat things infusion. So we're going to mirror it. What do we want to mirror? Well, we don't want to mess with faces. We want to mirror feature and the feature is by extrusion. And then if you hold down shift, you can multiple slip by extrusion. And we want the end fillets. So select the mirror plane. Now, again, this is where the benefit comes in of working with the origin in the center. If we hadn't set out on a plane and things now, It's just more work. It's just more things for fusion to get hung up on. Work around the origin. You don't need to do it. You can always use the origin planes. And there we go. So we've married, but now we've got these two arms. All that's left to do is a way of fixing this to the wall. So we're going to put some screw holes on here. I'm going to do a sketch on this face. I'm what I'm gonna do now. Some, you could draw a circle and extrude it. But I like if I'm going to create a whole as a whole, to put a screw through a hole, to put some fun, I like to actually use fusions whole command. If it was just a void, if it was like a cutout. But I would probably use circle. So it's the difference between a hole and a cutout, which is kind of it's a judgment thing. But if you're going to use it, definitely if you're gonna put the screws in there, you want to counter sink them like we're going to use the whole command. I'm going to do. I'm going to put a point. What I'm gonna do, I'm gonna do the same again. You see you get this midpoint line. So remember middle. So I'm gonna put that there. I'm going to do the same. I'm going to put one here. Then I'm going to create a dimension from that point. That line, I don't want it 15 mm. I'm going to do the same down here. 15 mm. I'm just going to finish our sketch. So all we've gotten that sketch is a point. Now because we've used about liners are damaged and it's automatically projected it. You can see that if it gets in the way, you can just turn that sketch off, okay, but we want to use these points first. It will turn it off automatically afterwards. So let's go to, so let's create a whole, okay? And we're gonna pick a point, we're going to pick that point. And I'm going to pick that point. You can save. The default is a huge hole. Okay? So we want now work out what you're going to put this up. I'm going to put a screw. So I've looked at this group of measured the screw. And I'm going to use both sizes to do my whole and my counter sink. My screw of a hole I want first is account to some coal. Now, the shaft of the screw, ideal hole for that 5 mm, the head of the screw. So the widest part of the top of measured at 9 mm will be the correct. That for the whole as long as it goes through the screw is actually 30 mm. So I'll just put that in the rest. I'm going to leave it as it is. I'm going to okay that. So now we have these two screws. And when we fix this to a wall, the screw head will be nicely countess. And in this pace, There we go. So save that. I mean, you can go up to the main, to this main component here, right-click. Save as mesh omega is just a standard. I'll just say that it's just a standard way, the same way all the time. Go-to slide, I said do what you usually do for 3D printing. It flat on the bed that you can print it out. And you'll see this will be just under 3 h. So there we have it fixed the brackets of a wall and now you no longer need to worry about your kids have fallen over. So again, another example of something quick, we can make this useful around the home. Again, as I said at the start of this chapter, if you caught with your own design, maybe it's got banned logo on awesome for non-musical know anything at all. I'd love to say it. I love seeing people's designs when they do it a bit different. I'll do it again after the tutorial and really refine it and make it their own design. So lovely is too flat. Please send me photos, social media, or wherever you solve this course. And let's move on now to something else. 7. 07 DesigningConnection 01: Okay, so now we're going to start looking at connections and how we can actually connect all printed parts together and why we would want to separate them in the first place. Okay, so first we'll talk about why we want to separate them. And there's a few reasons. 3d printing, even the best 3D printers take a long time to print. Okay, so you might print apart like this. And this is section of one of these rockets here. This is, it's takes us like 5 h to print as a bit of detail on their previous do fail. However good your printer is. They do fail for numerous reasons and we've all been there. There's nothing worse than set it to prevent texts hours. And then coming back to five, just a massive spaghetti because it's all gone wrong. If that happens after a five-hour print is bad enough. If it happened after a 20, I'll print it. You'd be in tears, okay. Especially if you tried to make a profit, if you're printing things to sell, you don't want to print a tied up for 20 h and then failing after 19.5 won't make a profit. So I like to break things down into small, manageable parts. The other reason I like to do it, if we look at this rocket, for example, when it comes to painting them, you can see this is basically two main colors. So let's separate it out. It saves a lot of mask enough and things. It's kinda brownie section in the middle is orange brown section. I would have that separate to the white parts. I'm going to just spray it, right, the whole thing. And then they would slap together after it's spread over paths. Why amigo is no difficult masking or anything like that? The other reason I would do it, if you look at this piece at the top. I have not these over a few times accidents happen. This bit breaks all the time. I even broke broke it once. Take it up for print that is very fragile. When you get detail like this, it becomes very fragile. So there's a joint here and it's slots in and it's not even glued in this piece. If I pulled that would come out and if I broke up, I can just pull it out and printing of one in an hour and slot to n. Important, if this was one big piece here, I broke the end of it. I would have to print the whole thing again. So I like to break down for fragile parts that anywhere that might break, I tend to break that down as much as I can, so it's easy to replace. Another way to break them down. You might want to sell it as a kick rather than a finished model. It might be you don't, you're not going to make a profit by printing finished models and painting them yourself all. You don't want to paint them yourself. You could sell these rockets, and I've sold these rockets, has kits as numerous parts which go together like the model kits you buy in the shops. So that's another good reason to do it. There's other reasons, but basically, if you are going to break models down, you need a way to connect the pieces together. So this section is all about looking at different ways we can connect them. We've got a simple push fit connection like these rockets pieces here, which you can then glue. You might even want them more of a tight fit. So even though that's pushed together, it's not going anywhere. If it was a fragile peace, for instance, on here, you might want to do that and then you can just pull it apart if needed. Okay? And that's all down to the tolerance which we'll look at. Let's first look at the different types of connections are mainly use. And then we'll look at some examples of how to create them 8. 08 DesigningConnection 02: Okay, so we've got a few objects here. We can talk through some of the connections that tend to get used in 3D printing. So the first is pushed connection, okay, which we'll look at. And it's a simple way. You have two objects on one as an inner kinda protrusion, which we'll slot into the other object. And this one has some detail, the lineup that is pipe work. And these are sections from the rocket model we use. If you can see, this kind of inner diameter will just slot into there so you can make this fairly loose. I mean, you can glue it for permanent fix a permanent attachment. This side, it will be much of a tighter fit. So if you had an object, for instance that was fragile and may break, you had a weak point on a model. You might want to do a tight fit like that. So it's not going to go anywhere. It's fairly secure. But it does come apart again. If you needed to. If this kept breaking, you can always print it again and keep attaching it. We also have this kind of push fit here where you will have a pocket and a male and female part and this will just slot in. Okay. And again, you could do that. Maybe these were fragile and kept breaking and you kept wanted to replace them. You can make that a tight fit. Or in this case, the reason it's done in this case is for the actual prints. So if we look at this part here, it has an inset which allows it to go into the bottom of another piece. I'm going to ask for holes for the rocket nozzle to 3D print this goes, this goes on the bed. And so you can have this step in here. If it was that way round, you would have an overhang, it wouldn't work. So this side will go flat on the bed. Okay? And then for this one we can print it so that it's flat on the bed. If you imagine four of these in here, tried to print it on the bed like that. If you could say you'd have all these overhanging, it just wouldn't work. So sometimes we separate them to make it easier on the 3D printing process itself. But that there is just a slop, kind of a push for it. And you can make that as tight as you want. This with the tolerance is something like a phone case. We all know our phone cases where it would just snap onto the back of the phone. And you could do that either by having quite thin walls and making it flexible. It would break easier. But it's kind of a throwaway part anyway. You can have this flexible, it allows it to snap on, or you can use a material you can 3D print using a material that is flexible, that will allow it to do that. This box, this has a lead much likely rockets section. It as a kind of an up stand fits in. You could if you wanted, you could add some screw holes or something in there as well, but that ledger is just push fit on there. Now this box which will design it has to fit a Raspberry Pi circuit board. And if you look at the Raspberry Pi as the attachment holes, there is actually some, you can see that some Ups, downs in their midst fits on the screws, go through. That in the correct places. Service connection would be it would be a self tapping screw which would work its way into the plastic. We have these UP stands. So he designed raise up stands in fusion. You can see those good angle. Design loads up, stand up. I usually put like a small just acts like a pilot hole which will be printed in the top, which will allow the school self tapping screw to grab on to that. Okay. So with screw connections, you can use self tapping screws and then that will find its way in. We also, why I like to use these V's, the end bolts. But here we use a metric boxy of M6, M8 kind of thing you might be familiar with. So you have a bolt and I use these nine lock nuts. And then you can put that into through apart as a whole. And you can put a nylon. Now, let's on and you can sign out. We all know how that works, okay. But one thing I like to do with these, if you look on this side, is actually print, you see the hexagonal shape. So this is what will be called a captive note. If it was just nuts on here, like we had before, like that, you would have to put something like a screwdriver on there and then a wrench or spanner on this side and you would have both sides, you tried to tighten it up. You might have access on your model to both sides is a bit fiddly as well. So by using this captive method, you can take and it fits inside and it's purposely designed to be ever so slightly larger than the slot in if you push it, but it's not going to turn, it can't go anywhere. The part itself keeps it captive. So when you push this one and you only need to turn it, you don't need to put anything on the not because it's held in place by the shape. Okay. Very good. I like using those a lot. The only thing I'll say is if you print in especially PLA, it's not very strong. It will try and round off the hole. And then when it turns, it kind of defeats the objective of having the captive bolt or if you're going to use these night lock nuts, I recommend you preferred one first, which is basically just means wine to nuts onto the bolt and let it work its way into the nylon first. And then it's a lot easier to actually fix in. And it's not trying to round off our whole. But yeah, I use those a lot. I like those because it makes it easier to keep things in place. And then lastly, we have the actual 3D printed nut and bolt. I'm a 3D printed Fred, which you can do in fusion. Fusion comes with built-in methods of doing a thread. And you can 3D print a thread on an object, whether it's an internal thread or female and male Fred, I'm not all work. So I actually worked at the front. Now there is a bit of refining to do with a's and we'll go over that and when we do this, follow along, but it works well and it might just be you want, you're not creating. And a bowl maybe is a part that you've lost all its broken for something else, which looked like that and it had a friend and you can replicate that and print it infusion. So that's kind of a standard connections that we use. And we're going to look at using those as we do some examples. I just wanted to show you an overview first of the different types. So now we'll start looking at some example modelling will create. I'll show you how to create the objects. And then we'll put those into practice on other objects as we go. 9. 09 ConnectionPushFit 01: Okay, so we're infusion here again. We're going to look more in depth foot actually designing these connections. Okay? So the first one was the connection, the slide fit connection light would use on the rocket. Now I'm gonna go into a lot more detail about that. When we actually design this rocket, we're going to build this rocket. So I just want to share the basics of connections in this chapter. So let me just save this amount. I'm going to create a new component, which will be nice. Okay, So this will be just a simple, simple cylinder. Let's make it 100 diameter. Actually going to do is this is just an example. I'm going to give it a five millimeter thickness. And then we'll extrude this. And just to show, I'm going to say 100. Okay? Now, that's one objects. Let's say we want another object here. I'm going to do a new component and call that part. Two. I'm going to create this on here. And I'm going to just project both of these. Okay, that finished sketch. Let's extrude that 100 also. So we've got two components. We want to join them together. If I go back to our top view, we can see both of them. Okay? So the way I like to do this, let's go to part one. Okay? I'm gonna do a sketch on here. And I'm going to, let's project but inside. And then I'm going to offset it minus one. So we've got this 1 mm offset. I'm going to finish sketch and then all I'm going to do is extrude. Here. I'm going to do a two-side extrusion. And I'm going to go, so let's go in by make it nice and strong. Let's go in by ten. And let's go out by ten. Okay? So we end up with this piece in between here. If I, if I turn this on now, so if I go to a top level, we see both of these. We can do a section analysis on that plane. So you can see what we have now have this kind of connection here. Now. I know, because we, we projected these lines to get this infill. This is an exact tight fit. This isn't going to work when we 3D print this, it won't go together is too tight. We need some tolerance in here with connections, you always need a bit of tolerance. So if I go back to this sketch, and I'm going to make this, let's go to Selection filter. I'm going to -1.5. I'm going to offset another one, which will be -0.5. I'm going to finish that sketch and now I'm going to edit this feature and I'm just going to, I'm going to delete this. So I just wanted one side. That's the side I want I want the side butt goes down. Okay. I want to keep up. So now if we look at our section analysis, we just have this piece and it's all the same piece. So that's what we want is just going to print that, okay, but we have no upstanding anymore in-between. We want to do that as a separate extrusion. I'm going to extrude on here. And what I'm going to do. If I go back to the top view. Let's find our sketch, which is on the bass part. The sketch we use for extrusion because we've used is automatically turned off, but we can turn it back on. What we'll do. The profile will just select that one profile. And let's give it, let's say it's minus one. Make sure it's on join. I'm going to, okay. Now, when we look at this section analysis, you see we have a bit of tolerance. So we have this gap. It's kind of back up and that's what we want, that will make a nice fit. Now, I don't know, without trial and error, if that gap is too big or too small, and it does depend whether you want a tight push fit or you want to leave a gap width. You can put some of these if assumption on there and what these views. So there's gonna be some trial and error. What I would say if I was creating something like a rocket, but there's multiple V's. Create your connection first using a test piece, and then use the same tolerance throughout. So if we go back to these original path, I would edit that feature instead of doing 100 mm, Let's do 20. Okay, the second one as well. Let's edit that and let's do 20. So this is a process I would go for right at the start of this model. You've got these two small things a bit like we did with the vacuum adapter. We're only going to do enough so we can print and test our connection. Now, if I turn my sketch off 10. 10 ConnectionPushFit 02: So we have these two parts. I'm going to turn this section analysis off because it's getting a bit. Okay, So we have two parts. We have this part and we can go to selection priority component. So we can say, okay, save this mesh and print like we did with the vacuum, will print both of these and we'll test fit them. Then it might be that this is too loose. So what we can do, we've got this sketch here. And that is our gap. So we could change our slept though. Maybe it's if it's too loose, we could go -0.25, okay. And then we could bring that down as well, minus zero point -1.25. So we keep this 1 mm here and we just have a 25 gap. If we've finished that. Again, we're looking at our analysis here. We've got a much tighter kept so we can play with that. If you've done my beginning costs that you've worked with parameters before, we can do that in our parameters easily enough. I don't want to go into parameters in this golf because that's something you should know. But you could set up a parameter called tolerance. And then you could just, when you do your sketch, you could set that dimension as tolerance. So that will be tolerance and that will be one plus tolerant. Again, that's something else. Hopefully you already know. So we print those two off. Can we get that correct? And now we can go back to creating these full-size items. Okay. And we can create another one or as many as we want. We can create a whole big tower. So let's do that. So we'll go new component, Part three. It will be sketched on top of here. And what we can do them, we can project, create our initial part 100. Again. Now when it comes to designing the connection, will go back to part two. And we'll create a sketch and then we can project. Because we can see below it all we need to do is project owes to extrude down minus time creates our strengthened piece inside. We can then do another sketch on here. This time. I just turned my actual powerful going to project these two lines. Okay, I'm going to finish our sketch. Papa com. Then we can create our Up stand. Because we use in this, because we've designed one and we've tested it and know it works. We're just going to use project to get all the same diameters of all. I'm going to now pop free. We could do the same again. Now, I know what you're probably thinking. Because these are all the same. Why won't you just copy of it and you would, if these were all the same, you will copy the part, but with something like a rocket. Each of these probably has a bit of detail on you might have a pipe on this one or you might have I'm just showing you how the connections would work, But yeah, certainly you could just create one of these part. Once you've done your connection, you wouldn't need to even print these. You could just print multiple arrays and knowing that they will all slept together and create a big tower for you. So yeah. But that is how you work out the connection, but the method is simple. It's one of these trial and error things. Getting your tolerance right for your printer. And the most important part of these remembering, get it, do it. Start with a small, with small pieces, fit them, and then use that same tolerance throughout your model and it makes your life a whole lot easier. Okay, so let me save that as a simple push fit connection. And it's the same process with the pocket where male and female connections is just creating one section that we'll slot in Serbia and working out what tolerance. It's the same with the lid on my box. You just create that kinda looks stand around it that slots inside anything like that. It just works the same way. So next we want to look at we look at the phone. They're flexible connection. When we design the phone case, let's look at the bolted image threaded connections now infusion 11. 11 BoltedConnections: Okay, so we're in a new project here. I'm going to save this. I'm going to call it, call it what you want. I'm going to create a new component, okay, So we're ready to go. I'll just leave that component one. So we're going to look at these connections using bolts and nuts. And again, I like to use a nylon nuts. I'm going to work with M6 bolts and nuts in this example. If you've got those, you don't need to actually do. It's fine to follow along. If you happen to have some MA nuts and bolts, use those, use whatever you've got laying around if you want to actually print this. I'll use smaller if you want. I would say the smaller ones are tiny, tiny ones. You won't get that captive. Pla print in tight enough to hold about not eat too small. M6 really is a smallest ago because they do tend to just round off too easily, but you can just follow along this. You don't just keep it in your mind when you come to do something in future. So let's look at this now. I'm going to create a simple sketch. There's no need to create a complex design just to show us going together. But principle is the same. So I'm just going to create a simple diameter here of 50 millimeter. Finish that. And I'm going to extrude it. Let's extrude it 50 mm. Okay. So let's say for instance, I wanted to bolt through here with the connection. I would measure my using my calipers, measure the shaft of a bolt and it's just in the 5 mm. So once you know about diameter of the shaft is make a hole in the center. I'm going to let these five. Okay? So I'm going to put a bit more tolerant, so I'll just switch slides for now. So I'm gonna make it 5.25. I'm and I'm just going to we're going to go to object. It's going to go through to this other side. Okay? I didn't use whole command verb because I don't want to put threads in it or anything. It's just a whole for the bolt to go and you could use hall if you want. It makes no difference whatsoever. If this was not an example, a simple example is if this was a box and it had a bolt in each corner or something that you probably would use a whole command because you would leave it out with points and dimensions on your sketch. But for this example, we just need the bolts going to slide through there. But we want to put this in this side. We want the recess that will hold it as a captive nuts. Now, there's a couple of ways you could do this. It's going to start with a sketch. So you could take your calculus and you could take you on nuts. You could measure across the flat sides of that. You can get your dimension. A man is 7.8. So we know it's got six sides and it's 7.8 across. So we could simply go and create this polygon. And you'll see there's two different types. There's one across the points, one across the flats. We've measured across the flats and it was 7.8. So you don't want to type fee, you don't want it not to be able to go and you don't have to hammer is not in, you want it to slide in but not be allowed to turn. So something like 8.2 might do it. Again, this is going to be one of those trial and error things. When finished sketch. I mean, it's just a case of going back. Maybe let's go 5 mm. Actually measure it. So it's 5 mm deep. So yeah, probably I will do it 5 mm. And we'll cut that. I'll bolt will now are nuts. I will now sit in there. I'll slide through and that will hold it in place while we tighten it up. So I would tend to do if I was going to create a component that was held together with these, I would make something like this, exactly like this at the start. You'd print it out nice and quick. And then you can test this hall. You can screw on, bolt through, make sure it's not rounding off. Again, proofread your notes, but make sure it's not rounded off. Mic gene sits in there in Iceland and get your tolerance is right. And then go off and do your design and use the same profile and the same tolerance is all through. Like to do these pieces just to test for connections. Now I want to show you some first. We didn't. When we create this sketch, we measured across our bolt and we did it live. There wasn't another way. And if I undo this, get rid of that. Okay. We can just insert them so we can go to McMaster-Carr We could type m6m6 lock nuts. Okay. So let's say that's the one we wanted. M6. Let's just go with that one. You can download it. Download it as a step file. Now we have our actual nylon. So that's sitting right in the middle. And all we need to do now is create a sketch on here. We'll catch up position. I'm going to project. So you could actually project these out outsides here. Or what you can do is project that point. That point. And that will allow you to get the dimension if you know the actual part use and you can get up dimension than men. I'm going to turn that off and we can create our polygon using the points. Okay? So that is the actual size of R naught. So if you want to bring a faster and if it's some kind of fast, he didn't want to measure it. It couldn't measure it. You can bring it in, you can do it like that. We would want to then offset because we'd want our tolerance. If you knew your tongs to 0.25. You can do it that way. You can finish the sketch and you can select as your extrusion. So it gives you the same thing. So that's two ways of doing it. On a simple doesn't really matter. It's just as easy if you've got characters, just as easy to measure it. But why, you know, it's actually the nuts. You've got lots of different manufacturers and options of East, So at least venue know the actual size. But if it's yeah, feel free, whatever whichever way you want. The main thing I'm trying to get through is to create a pattern like this. Design with the sizes and get your tolerance right first, then go and apply that. So you might then apply that to all four corners of a box or multiple parts of a complex model, you'd use the same tolerance every time. And that's how you do a captive connection. If you wanted, you might, just to make it even neater, you might measure the head of the bolt itself. So what I have is just under 10 mm. So you might do a sketch on this side as well. Say 10.25. The tolerance you can just make. It's not actually going to grab this, it's just a recess bringing the minus five. Okay, so then the head of the screw would be recessed in that side. Note would be reassessed in mat side. As long as you chose a bolt that was that length for the length of S, it'd be nice, neat connection, hidden connection, there is an actual captive type connection. Let's now look at fusions, own bolts and Fred's. Okay? 12. 12 ThreadedConnections: So we've gotten new project here. I'm going to save this Fred's and I'm going to create a new component. I'll call this bolt. Technically it won't be, but there you go. So good to a sketch here. And I'm going to create my, so let's say we had this diameter 50 here. This will be our base. And then I'm going to extrude by ten. Okay? Another sketch on top of here. And this will be our threaded shaft, which I will do a finished sketch. And I'm going to extrude that. Let's make it 60. Okay. So I'm gonna save that. I'm going to create a new component, which we'll call nuts. Do a sketch on here. Now I'm going to create, let's go with our polygon. And if you know, if you have a certain size that you want, whatever reason, then you could put that in here. If, if, if it needs to fit a certain tool, for instance, if not, you can just estimate it. I'm gonna go with 25. And then I'm going to create a diameter 32 match so much the shaft of a bolt. Okay. I'm going to, I'm going to extrude that. And let's extrude it. Let's go with 20. Okay, so now we've got these two objects here, two components. We'll go select should proceed component. So we've got a bolt and we've gotten a simple. Now we want to put a thread on this which is going to actually work. So fusion has this create Fred option. If we click that, it's got these to fill in so we can choose, it's an isometric size designation. But fusion being so clever, you can just hover over the face there and click. And it's going to, he's going to guess what it wants you to do in this case, it's guests them first guess correctly is good at that. As long as you've told it met the profile, the Fred type, which is the isometric. It will take the Near East. Although the diameter that fits basically, what I would say is this designation. You see it says M 13, we get obviously this is a pitch, so it's the distance between threads. If you're going to 3D print this, go with a maximum. You don't want really fine Fred, it's just going to give you go with a maximum you can. So 3.5. Again, I'm going to move up maximum. It's a right hand which is normal. So you want it to screw right hand. If for some reason you wanted it left-hand, obviously you change that. But the thing to remember here, if I was to okay, that you can see it's put a thread on our object. If I was to print this now, it wouldn't print that out for it because we fusion. Sometimes you want to show, if you're doing an animation, are you all doing something that's visual? You might just want to show the Fred, but not model it. Modelling with Fred takes computing power and things and you're putting it on a dimension joined to print out. It can clutter it as well because there's lots of lines goes on with a model for it. In this case, it's just showing it. It's just an image of a Fred laid on top just for indicative purposes, which you might want. In this case, we don't, we want to actually 3D printed. So what we need to do when we go to this Fred dialogue, it is Fred dialogue box. We need to have this option modeled. This is something a lot of people miss. You need to tick that and it will actual model. And you can see now we have way more actual geometry going on. It's cutting mat Fred in with us into there for us. So we can select that. And now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go just do exactly the same thing. But I'm going to select the internal phase. And again, it's chosen it is, and make sure that it chooses the right pitch and everything. And then you slept model again. We okay, now we've got both of them with a modeled for it. Okay? Now it's turning out it's not actually screen and that's just fusion turning around the view. So what I'm gonna do now is I'm going to move this. I want it to be at the bottom. So we had a twin, 20 millimeter thick, not 60 millimeter long shaft. So let's move it. So I'm gonna move it six -60, which will sit it on that base. And then we can go and we can do our sexual analysis. Okay, on that face. Now we can have a look at it. We can have a look at our two pieces. Now I can say if we were to just 3D print both of these and feel free to do that. Test your printer. But this will be a tight fit. It's probably going to bind, it's probably you're probably not even going to be able to scrape together. And if you can, it's just going to keep binding and possibly Chu, Chu itself. Because fusion is designed to misread to be cutting metal is it uses, it uses the actual tolerance. Tolerance. So we need to do a bit of refining just to make it work better. So let's turn that section analysis off. And what we need to do, we're going to work on the threads on this bolt. So we're going to modify them and we're going to offset the face. Now if I was to click this phase, you'll see it selects the face of the actual fred going around, but it's only the top if you look from the bottom, we've also got the same thing at the bottom of it. So we've actually got two faces, if you like. And you can see you can actually offset that. So it will be minus because we will be going inward. So we could say -0.25, okay? We okay that, and then we do exactly the same on the bottom. So offset -0.25. Okay? Now if we go back to our section analysis, we have a look. You'll see we've gotten much better gap between the two. We do have this fine point now, another thing I like to do is to put on affiliate on that edge there. Let's go with 0.25. Okay? Now when we look, we have a nice, it kept going on and I'd actually also probably make it run even better if I just hide the bolt. We slept enough. You could also offset the face here as well, so it could go minus point. Let's go with -0.25. And then the bottom face, -0.25. Again, let's see what happens. These radius is, so we can radius these edges. You see it selects the whole thread. We do that. Let's turn our back on again. Let's look at our section analysis now. You can see we've got a much Logic App and we've got less of this kind of ease Jaron straight edges. And this will probably print and work well. But again, do that in stages, depending how, if you make it too loose, it's not actually, it's just going to keep coming out. So do it in stages if you want. Feel free to not print the whole of a sharpened like we did before. Put a smaller piece. So you can keep testing it and eventually you'll get a nice kind of screw fit that isn't going to tune itself up but isn't going to come apart. Once you've got that, save it. Remember these tolerance values. Use them for future with your printer. But that's how you do a threaded connection. It might be if you are making a part, maybe, maybe you've got a part which is just for some reason it just looks like that. And it goes into a pit, is just a pile of broken or you've lost off something else. You only need this part of the friend. It's the same principle, but just keep testing it. And you might want to put some kind of nail surface on there to give it a bit of grip to do that. But that's Fred's. Remember to tick that box that says modeled. A lot of people. Say I've designed this thread and it hasn't worked 90% of the time. That's the reason it's just that box. But that's modeled Fred's infusion 13. 13 Design Information: Okay, So we're moving through this costs now. We've looked at some basic techniques for designing from a 3D printer. So now I want to look at how we get the actual information. We've looked at actual measuring using calipers and things. If we have an object to actually measure, there are other ways to get that information into fusion. We couldn't have another 3D model of an object. If we were going to create a phone case, for example, it would be a good idea to have the actual photos. We had a model of this phone and creates an a phone case would be much easier, especially in terms of the buttons and the holes for Cameron, things like that. We might have a drawing from a manufacturer. If it's a circuit board such as this one, for example, is Raspberry Pi. It has mounting holes. It has holes needed for things like USB, headphones, that kind of thing. So if we were to create an enclosure for this, not only would we need the mountains hold positions, but we also need the openings required as well. So we might just have a drawing. It's probably just download a drawing of a Raspberry Pi from a manufacturer, which would give us all those details. We might measure ourselves. So as numerous ways we can get the information, we can also use if we're doing scale models, things such as the rocket side did, I would use actual photographs and graphics. Download. I've put that into video, that sketch and we'll do that later on. So first we're going to look at a few of these ways of getting geometry 14. 14 PhoneCase01: So let's first look at bringing in an actual model into fusion. And we're going to look at designing a phone case when we get in bringing the model of the actual phone which will be conveyed use to model a focus around. Okay, So let's look it up, process and design a phone case now. Okay, so we're going to create his phone case now. And we're going to do that by importing a model of the actual phone. This is one of the ways you can get your reference geometry. There's a few different ways we're going to look at. First way is if you have a 3D model of an object and you want to create something around it, in this case a phone. So a good way of getting these is to look online. If you don't have it already, it might be what? You want to know how to do it. If an object you've got already infusion, in that case, you already have it obviously, but if it's something like a phone or a common object, usually if you Google online, you can find it. And what you're looking for is what's called a step file. Now is it a work? There are some websites you can go and get various things. One I like to use is called grabbed cat. This is a good site for all things pretty printing relevant. Some interesting things on here. You do have to create a complex free, okay? But you do have to sign in, so that's just one place. I'm not suggesting you use it, but you can get a lot of stuff. And if you can search in the library, you can search for objects to get. So I'm going to type in the name of my phone. And let's see what happens. So you can see various cases as well. You could just done for the case, but that I'd kind of be a very quick tutorial and I don't think you'd learn that much from it. So we're going to actually look for a step file of the actual phone. So Galaxy S8 step minds this S8 Plus, it's a slightly bigger one. So as long as the step file and it's what you want, you can click on it. And then you go to download all files. You'll see there's various things, images kind of thing and people make these and they upload them. So this guy thankfully decided to do it and upload it. You can thank people, you can donate. I think somewhere maybe. Anyway, have a look around and feel free to use anywhere else. So I use a file, you've already gotten your computer. But in this case we're just going to look at using this one. And you can just use this if you don't have, if you can find your particular firm for whatever reason, you don't have one, just use any will use one. I've just got if it's still available, just for this example. So I've downloaded that, I've started a new project. I'm going to save this first. I'm just going to call it s a phone. As usual, I'm going to create a new component first. And I'm going to call this flows. Now what I wanted to do, I want to go to my, wants to go to my data panel here. If you're new correct folder, wherever that may be, wherever you work in gotta upload and then select file. You're looking for this step file of a model you want. In this case it's VSA plus step. Open Matte menu, click on upload. My case. I think I've already got it in. So it's here. But once you upload, it will appear in your wherever you were, a folder and it will appear in your data panel. Once it's in the data panel, you can just drag it into your model. So I created a new component first, which are called phone. I'm going to drag over n. Now this is on the new component phone contains the object of just Brian. When you bring it in, It's asking you where do you want it so you can move you can rotate it back kind of thing. I'm going to rotate that. What I tend to do is just rotate it in the correct axes and then you can see what changes here. So you can put in 90. Okay, so now we have this phone object on this, and it's this phone component that I created. If you want to do it exactly on your origin plane, what you could do is select it and make sure you've got the component selection on. So select the whole component. And you can say modify a line. And you can choose the bottom face. And then turn on your origin. I'll just turn that off so it's clear. If we go me on the side of that plane where okay. Then it's aligned to the front view. We can see it's aligned on that origin plan. Okay? You don't have to do that is just a bit neatness, but I like to do. So now we have a model of our actual phone infusion. And what we can do, we can model our case around. In order to do that, I'm going to create, I'm going to create a new component and I'm going to call it case. This will be our actual phone case. So the phone is just a template that we're going to use them and we can turn it off. And we'll use it to find the holes in the case of a camera and all that kind of thing. So now I'm going to create a sketch and I'm gonna do it on this plane here. It's asking me about capturing possession of the phone, yet I'm going to catch it. So now we're in this end view. And we've got a profile of Alpha, which is what we wanted. What I'm gonna do, I'm gonna project, I'm going to try and get an outside shape. Okay? So if a project that region, then I can offset by 0.2. Then we have this line, again, this time by 1.2, which will give us a 1 mm thickness. Now I'm going to just create the edges of our case attribute. Okay, so now we have this profile that follows the outside edge of alpha. And we've cut it off here. So it allows us, it just needs a bit of flexing to step over top pill. It'll become clear in a minute. But if we finish the sketch and we turn our phone on, what we need to get now is a line that runs and it needs to run around the middle of our object phone. Now some firms actually have a line when you, sometimes when you bring in the model, it does have a center line down here. If it does, you might be able to use that and skip this next sketch. If not, you need to create one. And the way you can create one is to do an offset. So let's offset a plane. Just hybrids phone. So we're going to offset from there. If I go on this view. And just by eye, we want it kind of through the middle of a phone like that. Don't have to be exact as long as it's somewhere in the middle, I'm going to click Okay. Now we have this plane here. We can then do a sketch. On that plane. We're going to do a intersect. So we want to say wherever this phone intersects that plane, put a line basically. Now, make sure you are Miss, bodies are not phase. This entities, if you're an entity, is going to ask you for actual items, won't work. So you need to do bodies and be able to select the whole thing. And then just click it and press Okay, and then you could turn your phone off. We're starting with Sketch mode. You can see we've got an outside edge. What it has done, it, it's included things like the buttons, which we don't really need. These sockets here and things we don't really need. Really, we want this as simple as possible. So what I tend to do is just delete all this stuff, even the lines in-between, and just keep recorders. So that way we just have these corners. Top down view. Again, we want this to make it work and make it run as best as it can and not crash. When we do the next operation, we just want this shape as basic as possible. So let's just connect these backup with simple lines and finish that sketch. So now we have these two sketches. We have a profile on the outer line. So we'll just do a sweep. We select our profile and then sort of path. We can select this press. Okay? So that's given us this outer edge and you can see where we trimmed it off at the top. It just allows this area to snap over top of a phone and hold it in place. That's the, that's the edge of alpha and done. Okay. So we want to close the bottom of it. It's not open like this. So we do about it. We're just going to simply enough to project this shape onto a plane, but we want our plane to be on this bottom so we can construct a plane for two edges. And then by selecting this edge and this edge, we have a plane exactly on that surface where we want it. We can then just do a sketch with a simple project. We have this sketch here. Now. It's obviously just a case of joining this and create an extrusion at 1 mm. And there we have our basic case. So that will snap over the edge of our phone and should hold in place. And if it doesn't, again, trial and error, you could always adjust this initial sketch that you did down here. You could go to Edit Sketch. You can adjust this kind of overhang depending on what PLA, filament you're using. You can get some flexible ones which are really good for this actually. But that's just the kind of trial and error you can do after. Now, we do need to cut out our holes for things like the camera in their sockets and things. So again, this is why I've referenced geometry comes in, we can turn our phone back on 15. 15 PhoneCase02: What we're going to do now we're gonna go to this case. Let's go to opacity control. And let's make this 50 per cent opacity. And that way we can actually see the items through it. Okay. So there's a few ways you could do is you could, in our sketch, we could go to Project and we could actually project these elements. But in this case, with these free, it seems a bit more work than we actually need. It's only going to be roughly done. So I'm just going to draw a rectangle around there, which make the texts account and gives us a bit of leeway around everything we need. And then let's also put a nice radius on that. I'll go to 0.5. Hopefully you actually do it again. You can adjust this after trial print doesn't work out. We'll finish that sketch. And let's just go to distance to object. We're gonna go to this internal face, cuts it out. And then we have a cutoff for our camera. Now, it's the same thing we're gonna do. We're gonna go round And we're gonna do it for each side. Okay, so for each side, you need to do a sketch. Choose the correct plane. So let's do that side first. And then we're going to, for these kind of buttons and things, we are going to say project, make sure you get the right side. So it might be best in this kind of view are going to do this side first. Go find something that's on the outer side of it. And you might need to turn your case off so you can get the items. Hopefully you can see what I'm doing, but I'm projecting the outer profile of these buttons. I'm going to select. Okay, that's good. He's saying the item we've created is not visible. It's because we turned our case often our sketches part of our case. So that's fine. We can just turn the body off and keep the sketch. And I'm going to offset from this because we don't want the button, such a title. Again, we've got to work with tolerance of it here. So let's go point to it will be -0.2, 0.25. Okay? And again, I'm here -0.25. Okay? Okay. Now we can turn my body back on. And I'm going to say, let's finish. The sketch will go to Extrude. And we'll select these profiles, make sure you select the projected want ME out on. You could just pull them out like that. Cuts it. And now you have your cutouts. I'll phone on. We've got more to do down here. It's the same process. So sketch, project. Make sure we're projecting just the ones on this end. I'm going to turn the body of the case off and see you can do a region and it will give you all that, all those items. In this case, because there's a few it's probably worth doing that. We can work with those. I'm going to select, Okay. And then I'm going to turn off the phone. To this view I'm going to offset -0.25. Okay. Actually, for this one because it's a headphone and because you've got the jack and the bigger part of a headphone on the map F35, just give it a bit more leeway. As I say, all these might be trial and error, but once you've done it for your phone, it's done. You can just print it as many times as you want. I think that's just a microphone. That's fine. And so these I'm just gonna do this one by i just with a rectangle and a radius. Default that radius. Okay? So we'll finish that sketch. And then we'll turn on our body of our case. And we will say Extrude. Let's select our item. So we've got that one. That one. That one. We could have deleted these projections, make it a bit easier to select, but it doesn't matter if we leave them on it. It gives us a chance to use them and edit them in the future. And they will go. So then we've got these cutouts. Let's turn our phone on and we'll do the same. On this side, it looks like we've just got one, but it looks like we've just got one button on this side. So sketch. Same process. Project. Let's turn this off, make it easier. Okay. Turn off your phone. Random error message coming up there, which we'll ignore. Okay, and then we've got that. So let's turn on our body of our case. Finish the sketch. And it's the same process. Extrude both of those, bringing it out. Okay. Getting someone now. So is there any film on top with just these two holes? I don't know if first speakers on microphone, but simple enough, same process, sketch on that plane. Project. Let me turn the case off. I'll just use a profile for this one. Offset this -0.25. Same with this one, -0.25. And again, it's the same thing we're doing over and over. So apologies if it's a bit boring, but I wanted to show you the whole process. We're just going to extrude these two. And let's pull out now. Okay? So fusion does, is sometimes, you could say if we just pull it out, it's going to create, it's going to, it's kinda unlinked it from the body. It's lost. It's lost its association with what it thinks we want to cut. If we would say cut now, it's gonna give us an error. It, the target body, it doesn't, it's lost its association with. So what you need to do here, you'll suddenly get this. You'll get full out here. Objects to cut, okay? If you just click it, then it re-associate it, then okay. Then we go. So that is our phone case. And let me put the phone on. What should be all the all the openings we need in it. Now, we can turn this on a feel free to do whatever design you might want, but bear in mind, I am going to print this with this base on the 3D printer. So you might have how you're going to print if you don't want anything protruding from this, you could do a kind of insect, but it's only a millimeter thick. So the way I use these is it just prints something white PLA I've done one for my daughter's phone. And she loves to just do paint paint different designs and color them. And you can throw them away if they break all she doesn't like what she's painted, you can just print an oval, so that's how I like to use these. You can get yourself some really good, flexible, nice colored filaments. And D. So for good quality woman that's going to last a while. It's up to you how you use it, but that's the model, that's a phone, phone case. So let's turn that opacity. But 200 per cent so we can see it properly. So what we've done, we'll save that. And then the usual thing we're going to do, right-click, call it phone, case, save, fire up my slicer software. And let's bring it in. So it's a pretty good job of working out where we want it on the bed. I'm going to slice it and print it now. It's an hour and 50 min. So anytime you want a new case just under 2 h, you've got one don't need to design again, obviously it's just a case of print in whenever you want it. Again, the beauty of having a 3D printer and being able to design thing. No more ordering, waiting, shipping things across the world, all that kind of thing. The pollution from the manufacturing, you just print it in your own home. So save that. And let's print it. There we go. There's our 3D printed phone case. You could use this now you could paint on there, put some graphics on there. When it gets old, or if you make a mistake, you can just throw it away. I'm printing the warm, so that's something worth doing. Fifo or maybe children's firms do numerous designs. And you've always got it once you've designed and safety is always great. Next is the case of pressing print 16. 16 Enclosure 01: Okay, So next we're going to look at creates new enclosure for a circuit board, in this case a Raspberry Pi circuit board. We're not going to bring it in. Lovell, I'm sure there are models out loud. We could do it that way. This time we'll look at using the drawing and actually referenced dimensions. So something like this for manufacturer would produce a drawing. And there's probably other versions out there as well, which would have the mounting holes and very quiet holds needed me outside and allow you to create an enclosure of your own. So in this chapter we're going to look at how we can do that. Best way to model it. Then you're going to print it. Okay, so let's look at designing this enclosure now for our Raspberry Pi circuit board. And first thing I'm going to do is save that we'll do. And I'm going to create a new component. I'm going to call this base. Okay? So now we're ready to go. So again, we could, I'm sure we could find a Raspberry Pi model and we could do exactly the same as we did with a phone case. If you do find that, that's the easiest way to do it. But in this example, it might not be a Raspberry Pi, it might be a circuit board you've made yourself or circuit board you've got something else, some enclosures broken. It could be anything. So we're going to look at a different way of getting our reference geometry. And that is with a sketch. So you might get a sketch like this offer supplier of your circuit box. Or you might just take the measurements yourself. The main measurements we're looking for other mounting holes. The outside dimension to say how big it is. And then these openings that we need, sockets for USB sockets, that kind of thing. So generally, you'll get one of these offer supplier of a circuit board. If not, you just measure it with your calipers and you come up with a set of dimensions like this that will give you your layout dimensions. So I don't know whether you're going to use the Raspberry Pi as an example. You're going to use your own. If you follow along with this example, it's best to just use the same dimensions as I'm using. What I've done. I've taken this sketch and I've looked at some basic calculations to work out the distances for these kind of sockets service this part of the image, for example, and tied it all but two of the mountain halls. And we'll work from the mounting holes, which is generally a good way to do it, so it all fits together. Just use the same dimensions I use as a corrupt will model. This is where I would have got them from initially. Or if you're using your own, just follow along but use different dimensions obviously. Anyway, let's get cracking. Let's show this example. So I'll get rid of that. First thing I'm gonna do is create a base of a box here. So our main, we're going to use center point rectangle again, always work around the origin where you can. And I've calculated this to be 64 by 94. Will okay, that will finish that sketch and extrude it by 28. Okay, so basic box or a Mengele radius, these four corners. Let's make them five. And I'm gonna radius of a button as well. So we put Phillip's Northern, give it this nice radius. Now we need to make our insights. So we're going to use the shell command. Click on that face. And it's going to have a thickness of two basic enclosure box. If you would just create an a box to put some funny That's as far as you would need to go. We want actual UP stands with some screw holes and openings for sockets, that kind of thing. So let's first put our upstanding. Going to do a sketch on this face here. I'm going to create a circle, center diameter circle. And it's going to be six millimeter diameter. And I'm going to have worked out with dementia from the inside of the box. The center of that circle will be six. And on this side it will be 5.5. Okay? Now we'll do another one on our form. We can just kinda do In line, you see we get this blue dashed line. We'll do six millimeter diameter. And we will lay it out from this one. Again, when you're designing like this, don't keep trying. If you've got the circuit board, the circuit bodies were known dimension. So once you've put one dimension here, use the dimensions off your drawing to lay out a whole Robin. You don't want to lay out that from this edge of a box. And let our next group hole from this edge of a box. Because if there's any areas in print and I think it's not going to tie up. If you lay out from the object you're designing around, you lay out from itself, then that's much better way of doing it. Hopefully that made sense. Okay. You'll see if we now put a dimension there. It's 5.5 because we lined up when we drew it. So that's our two are mountain holes on this side. We're going to finish that sketch. And I'm going to extrude the mixture because It's gone on to that radius. So you just need to make sure you get that little clip damage where we're going to extrude these and we're gonna go 8 mm. And that will just be a Join. Now because we're working around the origin, it's a simple job to mirror them. So make sure we select features. We want that extrusion, the mirror plane, be the origin. And then we go. So now we have our ups dance. Okay, so what I want to do now is put like a pilot hole in the top of each of these something for the self tapping screw to bite into when you start screwing n. Okay, so I'm going to create a sketch on the top one of those. And then I'm going to because we did the sketch on top of this when we can just drop a point on there. And it will find it in the center. But it's not going to work on these since the sketch is kinda tied to this one. So we'll have to project those, project those circles. Now it will allow us to jump off point and it will find the sensors. Okay? So if you finish that sketch now we've got these four points. We can just create holes. Using those points. For these holes, we'll just default to philosophy. It might come on as massive holes. It might look strange, but once you type these values and it'll be okay. So you want that for 5 mm and you want the hole to be 1 mm wide. And then just leave it on a simple holes and click Okay. And you get these little pilot holes which they'll print. It depends on your printed but you don't need a neat hole. You don't need these. I just need something from a secured to buy into k. So there we have it there we have our mountain pose for our circuit Bob. Now we're going to look at these openings here. And if we look at our sketch, if you've got quite a lot going on, on this end, I'm not going to try and do individual openings. It'll just seems a bit of a waste. I'll just do one big opening here. And then on this side, we've got, we've got a circle and these two ports here. So we've got three separate openings on this side. But for this one, just one big open. I've taken these dimensions and I've worked out a kind of opening a need. So again, feel free to do it differently if you designed for different circuit board. If you want to follow along, just use the dimensions I'm using. And let's create those openings. So I'll do a sketch, we'll do this one first. So we're going to do a map phase. And what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna take everything off these mountain points. When you've got something like this. Again, does that measure off itself wherever you can? So tying these points, I'm going to project these lines, which is a top here. Select. Okay, and now we go to our sketch. If a hive or body, you'll see we've got these these lines here. These are the top of a mountain goals projected. And I'm going to create a point which will be the center. Okay? So now we can basically take everything off those points and it will tie back to a center, those mountain holes, which means we can reference our sketch and get it, get it looking nice. So I'm going to do a two-point rectangle. And I want actually on this level with the top of these. So I'm just going to do it a bit by I like that first. And then we're going to create some dimension. So this dimension will be from the center point of that mountain hole. That is 1.5. On this side, it measures so the high isn't, it only needs to come out the top. So I'm just going to put them 25. Finish up, turn on our body. And you'll see so only needs to be higher than the actual base. So extrudes all the way through. We can then extrude that out. We go, that's our opening 17. 17 Enclosure 02: A lot just alive, simple opening on that side. The other side is going to be a bit more detailed, but it's the same process. So let's project the top of these mounting holes. Okay. So we've just got those lines on the sketch will hide our body, will create a point, the midpoint. So that will be our center of our screw holes. Now we can take everything off there. So we have a circle, Southern may millimeters diameter, and it works out 8.5 from the center. And the height of it is 5.5. Okay? Next we have a rectangle. And this rectangle is 178 in that direction, 17 in that direction. The dimension from here, that line is 20. And he wants to be just off the top. So I'm just going to go point to love another rectangle. This one is going to be eight by five, which is again point nought 0.2. And it works out to be basically on the surfaces 3 mm from there. So that's our points laid out. So those should cut out nicely. I'm going to finish that sketch. Turn our body by icon. I'm going to extrude those out. And then we go again. Might be some trial and error involved in there, depending on what's plug it into these, you might need a bigger opening. So the rest of the actual white cable, the cable obviously is trial and error first time. Once you've done it, you can print it as many times as you want. So that's the basic process, how we do that? Well, I will make those openings and that is done off a reference sketch. So it's a phone. We use an actual model of a phone. We use projections with this we use in my other sketch and dimensions method, but comes out the same way. So now let's do, let's put a lid on, let's put a lid on this base now. So I'm gonna go up here, I'm gonna go new component. I'm going to call this lid. I'm gonna do a sketch on this surface. Now I'm not going to, you could project this, this curve is outline. You could do that and that'll give you it. But I do like having it as a radius, same as we did with the base. So I'm going to create a rectangle. I'm going radius that lid. Now what you can do, depending how fusion is behaving, you should be able to line up both a, C, we get the two dashed blue lines. So we can then do a rectangle based on this object without having to project. It doesn't always work on the other corner for some reason. Okay. It depends on fusion is behaving but doesn't always. Today it's worked. If yours doesn't work, you might have to just line up with one side and then align it using new constraints or something. Okay? But it's worth today. So finish that sketch and we'll go Extrude. You're gonna have to select all these corners. You could have just extruded that. As I said, I've got that shape. For me. I like to, I like the light to be able to change those radiuses another bit more control. And it just makes, it just makes it more controllable as a model. But it would have all work the same way since if you change this radius, the lid will change automatically. So you could do it. Again. I just like having control over late and control over base, but it's totally your preference. So I'm going to extrude that. Let's go 6 mm. Now we can put our fillets on Which is five. We'll put this top edge on as well. Then we've got a nice lead. If you go back to the main model, you'll see it all lines up off. It's nice. But we want it to actually have a bit of a connection here. We want it to slot on Robbins. This is going to lay on the top. You'd have to just slide off obviously. So we want to put some kind of a kinda insert here. So let's do that. Let's do a sketch on this piece. And I'm going to project, if I hide valid, I'm going to project this line. Okay? Now I'll get rid of a base, put the lid back on. Let's look at our sketch. Those two up. Now. We're going to offset from those and we're going to offset two nought 0.25, which will be basically our tolerance inside. So how tie it fits. If you end up having a lead that's too low, you can reduce this if folate is too tight and it won't go on, you can make it bigger. I'm going to finish that sketch and then I'm going to extrude. I'm just gonna go 1 mm. Which will give us this nice kind of thing. I'm gonna do another sketch on top of that. I'm going to offset or outer edge. And I'm gonna go in by 1 mm. The -1 mm ms case. Okay. And then I'm going to finish that sketch and do an extrude again. And now we can bring this piece down and we'll go to object. We'll go to the outside minus two. And what that will do is insert it down and leave the light was shared via object 2 mm. It will leave at 2 mm. Emulate will, okay, that gives us this nice late with the UPS done via which we can then print out way around. That's all box. Now we'll right-click. We'll go save this mesh legal these, and save it as a base is. And then we'll do the same for the lead. Right-click, save as mesh. Okay, Let go to our slicer and bring them in, and then we can just send these to our 3D printer. So print out that way round, slice it. So I was 53 min. And we'll delete that. And then we'll do the same for the late. This time we want to print it way round. So let's round and then say lay flat. Okay? Slice that. I'm, the lead is going to be 1 h 26 min. So let's print those and then we'll see how that come out. Okay, so here's our enclosure. We've got the base and we've got the lid, and we've got our Raspberry Pi. So we have our standards and our circuit ball fits on those up stones nicely. Soft tapping screws will go and bind to those pilot holes. And you can see that everything lines up. We also have a lid that sits nicely on there. Again, it's up to you if you want to make that more secure, put some you could have some screw holes in math to scribble it down if you wanted. You might, if it was a circuit board or something that gave off a lot of heat, you might put some vent holes into the lid to these early examples to show the process. By all means, come up with your own creations and I always enjoy seeing them as well. So feel free to some input that's an enclosure design infusion and 3D printed using dimension drives 18. 18 ImagePlanes 01: Okay, so let's look at another method of getting our reference information into fusion now. And this is one I like to use when I'm creating my scale models of things like aircraft, rockets, that kind of thing. So you're not going to find, in most cases, lots and lots of dimensions. You might find something like an aircraft. You might find a length and a width. And that will be handy because you'll need those overall. You'll need something to scale it, but you won't find every dimension of things like the engine callings and certain parts of the wings and all that you need to create an accurate model. So what we do is we use an image or a drawing, which we can use as an underlay infusion, and then we can trace over the top of that. So I'll show you how to do that. Let's first save this. And I'm just going to call this glass. Now you don't need to follow along. You can if you want. But you can just sit and watch just to get the principle. We're going to actually put this into practice when we come to design the rocket. So if you want, you can just watch this and get the theory in your head. So let's call this glass as our project. I'm going to create a new component as always, which I will call, let's call it glass. Okay, so now I'm gonna show you kind of a roundabout way habit. This is why it might be best to just sit back and watch because I'm going to show you the process and then I'm going to show you just a refinement to that. But you I'd rather shave a process first so you understand it. The way you do is you insert a canvas. And it's going to ask you now for something to use as a chemist. So this will be our image. I'm going to insert an image that I found online of glass like a goblet. Now, if you are following along, just feel free to Google. It can be anything like you want a side on view of an object that it'd be hard to model. Something like a glass is perfect. Now it's asking for a face where we want that. So we need to think this is a side view. So rarely said is up as usual, we want it on this plane. Now it's going to ask us to position it. So I'm going to look at this view. What I would say is you do want central, as always, you want to be working centrally to the origin, but it's the center. In this case is the center. This is just an image, it's a photographic doesn't know any geometry on here. So the center is the center of the actual image. Now you may get lucky as we seem to miss case centralized in the image, but if it was over to this side, we would need to move it. You can just adjust that how you want it. Maybe you'd want it to be on the base like that. Okay. I'm going to leave everything as zero. It seems to have come in quite well. I'm going to go out. So now we have this canvas image on our origin plane. That means we can start to trace this. But one thing we want to do first, we want to make sure that it's accurate size. So in this case, if we were creating this glass and we want it to actual size of a glass. Well, we could, if we add the glass itself is a clear, we could just take one measurement. It might be our image plane. And you get this when you do an aircraft of things has like an overall wingspan dimension on it. We can just use that. In this case, I'm just going to I'm just going to measure something on my desk. It's not the actual glass, but it's something similar. And it's 90 mm. Okay? So now we have, once we have a reference dimension, we can go there are glass. You'll see we have a new folder now called canvases. And undervalued will show us all the canvases we have in a file and you can have more than one. Okay, I'll explain that in a bit. If we right-click it, we get this option calibrate. So if I click that, it's now going to ask us what it wants, it wants dimension to use to calibrate it. So I'm going to click there. I'm just going to click to the other side. And you'll see it comes up with dimension. Now, I know this is 90. So it hasn't disappeared. It's made it a lot bigger. Now if I was to go to calibrate again and check it 90 mm on roughly it because you can't snap on anything. This is just an image. You can only do it roughly, but that's the main points of a millimeter you printer isn't as exact as that, so that's fine. So now we have an image to the scale we want. I just want to mention something here. If you were designing an aircraft's, for instance, a new knew that the wingspan of the aircraft was, let's say, 60 m wide. Really, what you want to do is think about how you want it to print. How big do you want this model? You're not going to be a presumed 3D printing an actual 60 meter wide aircraft. So you might want to say a desk model of an aircraft. You might want it to be 20 millimeter, 200 mm. So you'd calibrate it to the size you want to say, then you'd calibrate it 200 mm. Though. I mean, you can draw an actual size if you want and you can, there is a way to shrink it all down by scale if you'd prefer to work that way. But really because you'll be where if you work who have separate paths and you'll be using tolerances that fit together. If you were to join actual size and shrink it down, all those tolerances would shrink to next to nothing and wouldn't slot to go. So again, this is the exact process we're going to do when we come on to modelling maracas. If it's not clear yet, don't worry. Let's just, I'm just wanted to show you an overview of the image of the canvases and the image planes for this chapter. So now we are about the size we want. In the middle. What I'm gonna do is create a sketch on that plane. And I'm going to create a line from the origin straight up there. Okay? And I'm just going to create a baseline. So we've got something to work. And then I can extend it down. Now we want this shape. You can see this will be quiet. Just trim this. This would be quite difficult. Well, it won't be that difficult, but it'd be a bit tricky and time consuming to measure different radiuses and thicknesses and get all these curves correct by doing things, extrusions, if you were to draw a circle on the bottom, I'm going to circle here, loft it. It would be fairly time-consuming. So something like this. It's perfect once you've got the image plane, I'm just going to do another line here, which will be our top. Man. We're going to use something like a spline. So I can now just trace this shape just by I live up, okay? And then you can go in and you can do some refining. And for shape. Don't want to do too much because it just becomes boring to watch. But in general, There we go. So let's just fix this one. We get a curve like that. So now we've just been able to trace our image and we get that shape. Let me trim this. And then it's a simple process, as you've probably guessed of just using our revolve command. Select a profile, we can select that as V axes. We can click Okay. Then we have it. Now something like this. Don't be tempted to do a shell to get that opening because it won't. Well, I'll show you what it will do. We'll do a shell that we want it to millimeters thickness. If we inspect it with a section analysis for you because it shows you're going to have whatever your polar and he's gonna be sitting here. This is gonna be so weak, it will just snap probably soon as you pick it up. So you don't want that. What I would do is probably edit this sketch here. Offset that n minus two. And then just again, use a spline going to come off here. Make sure you go to the actual midpoint, not when you've offset. And then we can delete these offsets here. Extend. And then you can trim this top line out so you get the actual shape there. Okay. I want to trim that. So that would be how you do that. Again, we need to trim this offset line. Get rid of. That would be how you'd do it. So then when you're finished sketch now you revolve. You've got the actual inside. If you today section analysis now, you get this nice shape. So we can turn this analysis on an off. Can we have our glass? You could 3D print that? 19. 19 ImagePlanes 02: So the other thing I wanted to say about refining this canvas, now, if you are doing a kind of complex model, it can kind of getting away, especially if there's certain details you want uncertainty tells you don't, because it's in the middle and we did it on our origin. It does interfere, but now you can turn it off. But like anything, you can just go to Canvas. You can turn them all off. Turn it on individually. You can also make it uncollectible. So sometimes when you're modeling, you can keep selecting it by accident. You might want it selectable. So if I was trying to click on this goblet, you see I can actually accidentally select the canvas. So pretty much you always want them on selectable. Also, if you right-click it, you can edit that Canvas. So once you put it in, you can move it about. But also this is quite good optimist opacity here. I've mindset to 50%. Yours might be different if you follow along, but you might want to see through it. It's very faint, so it doesn't get him away or you might want it solid. If I just turn my body off, you can see so you can have it like that where it's the full image, if you like. We can have it very faint. So that's opacity. I like to use about 50 per cent. You can flip it around if you wanted it. You can rotate the image. If you wanted to do that. Which is flipping it rather than, sorry, rather than rotating it starts kind of mirror in it the other way. But what I like to do, I don't actually like to put my reference images on the origin plane. If I go back in my history, the first thing I like to do is to construct an offset plane. So I'll choose the correct plane and I'll move it right back. And just roughly, so it's outside of the model. Okay, so I'll go, let's go -100 in this case. Okay, But now, when it came to choosing my image plane rather than the origin, I would have chose offset plane. In that way, you can see that it's actually behind, it keeps out away. And this is especially useful when you've got more than one image plane. So what we have, a lot of times we have things called free views, where you'll have a side image, front image, and a top image, particularly aircraft, things like that. So you might have this would be our side image. Then you'd have another canvas setback in that kind of view, which will be set back here, which will be our front image. And then you'd have a top-down one which will probably, probably on a, a plane sat underneath for models. So you'd have three different canvases. And then you really want to set them back because otherwise they're just cross each other and it kind of gets confusing. So I'm going to show you an example of that now in a fairly complex model that I've done. Okay, So this is a model I created a seven for seven aircraft. This was just done infusion. And you can see we've got alright view, we've got our front view and top view. And if we turn on my canvas is here. Zoom out, you'll see that I actually set them back at a side view, setback, front view, bottom view. So my model is free of clutter. But if I go in any particular view, I can see that plane behind. To use it. In this case, I add some Diamond overall dimensions if I wanted to calibrate it to actual size, but I knew the size of a desktop model I wanted. So I calibrate it to be that size. Okay, but that's, that's how you do this kind of free view modelling. Use an image plane. And so you can appreciate if I was to model this without these images, I would need to know so many dimensions of all these individual parts. But when you've got an image, you only need image behind. It works out well. So that's image planes or canvases wherever however you want to describe them. That's how they were very good for modeling 20. 20 Adding Detail: So we've got about two a glass. I want to show you another thing we can do with a 3D printing. Sometimes you might want to print these with a logo on awesome writing. Maybe it's at someone, Happy birthday or something like that. Now, whether you drink out something that's made from the PLA is nuts depends on your filament and your personal preference. But for a display, you might want to just write something on here. So how can we do about 3D print it? You might already know, I'll show you. If you don't, let's turn on our origin. And I'm gonna do a sketch on this face here. I'm going to create some text textbox about there. I'm going to put Happy Birthday. And let's choose a nice font. Let's choose something basic for now. I'm going to put it in the middle there. Okay. Let's just try. For example, you've got your actual texts. This isn't model than any way at the moment. It's just a piece of text. So what we need to do if we go to extrude, then we can select our texts. And rather than extruding it from a plane like normal, which would just do that. We can say object, and then we can select this object here. Now your computer might, depending on the model you're doing, this is quite a difficult process for your computer because it's going to curve it. So it might start huffing and puffing out yet making noises, but there it goes. So it's come on and we only want it. It's only two millimeter thick. So I would say you only want it probably 0.5 of a millimeter. I'm going to okay. That again. It's thinking his chain. It will do it. Come on. There you go. Now you have kind of engraved in there. Happy birthday. So that's how you can do that for objects and you can do that for anything really. You'd be able to 3D print that and give it some, don't have to be text. It can be any image that you can offset, realize that you can extrude. So it could be a company logo or something like that. Some things you can do it so you could have extruded it the other way. If you go back to this Edit Feature, and hopefully it won't crash. But if we just said 1 mm on, okay. Sorry, I put it on. Join. Come on. You can do it. There you go. So you get this kind of embossed, these letters. So you might want that and that will be in your whatever filament you're using. So what I like to do sometimes is if we go back to it, is to use kind of indented feature. So you have this actually indented and then what you can do, you can actually rub over that with something like a wax or something like that. Which will then fill in this kind of blow it area if you like, when you can wipe it over and you get a coloured texts. I've done that before. Yeah, I'll come work. We've shown image planes and we've shown how you can create the text and the embossed and recessed texts onto your products