Floral Painting for Beginners: Creative Ways to Paint White in Watercolor

1. Introduction: [MUSIC] Have you ever tried painting white in watercolor? I'm sure you got a hard time too. Don't worry, because in this class, I've gathered some techniques that will make painting white in watercolor a little less overwhelming. [MUSIC] Hi, my name is Jenny Flores. I'm a professional artist and a creative mentor from the Philippines. I am a brand ambassador for a well-known brush brand, Silver Brush Limited and my works have been featured in different medias and article. I am not the born artist. Like most of you, I also thought that being a creative is a talent and you must be born with it in order to create something beautiful. But that's a misconception we no longer have to believe. Anyone can be an artist. Yes, including you. All you need is a heart and mind that's willing to learn. In this class, I will introduce you to the beautiful world of watercolor, and we'll begin with one of the least used yet powerful color in your palette, white. We'll start the class by knowing the right materials for watercolor painting, then I'll introduce you to the different white flowers and fillers. I'll teach you how to paint Queen Anne's lace, chamomile and of course tulips. From there, we will apply everything that we've learned and create beautiful artworks that I'm sure you'll love. This class is perfect for all levels from beginners who never tried painting before to advance artists, who want to develop a new style of painting flowers. I know you're excited, so pick up your brush and let's get started. [MUSIC] 2. Class Project Overview: [MUSIC] Hi and welcome back. For today's class project, we are going to paint three different painting composition consisting of white flowers. Our main subject will be tulips, and for our fillers, we will be painting chamomile and Queen Anne's lace. I picked tulips as our main subject because of their beautiful and delicate look. Tulips are also great flower to start with if you're starting to learn watercolors, since it has a very simple structure. To add to that, tulips also mean perfect love. After painting your project, you can give your artworks to someone you love. How exciting is that? Our first-class project is this delicate tulips and chamomile composition with a pink background. Then after that, we will create this painting with beautiful tulips surrounded by dancing Queen Anne's lace. For our final project, we will paint this unique conversation with tulips in a plant box. By the end of this class, you'll not only learn three beautiful and frame-ready artworks , but more importantly, you will learn the foundation of watercolor and start gaining confidence in creating your own original composition. [MUSIC] 3. Supplies Overview: [MUSIC] Here are the supplies that we'll be using for our class. First off, let's start with papers. One of the papers that I'll be using is the academy watercolor paper. This one is in hot press. Then after this one we'll also be using the academy watercolor paper pad, but this one is in cold press. The third paper that I'll be using is the clear fountain paint on multimedia paper, which is a naturel color. Aside form papers, we'll also be using some paints, of course. So here are the paints that we will be using. We have Petersburg ocre white, titanium, quinacridone burnt orange, green earth, yellow ocre, Van **** brown, perylene, maroon, mocha, undersea green, and olive green. We'll also be needing some pencil, eraser, and masking fluid. Then, of course, we need water in a cup and our palette. Then lastly, we need some paintbrushes. For the paint brushes, I will be using the silver crystal brush and pointed oval, size 3 over four, silver black velvet, round brush in size 8, the silver silk 88 oval crescent brush in size 3 over eight, and then the silver brush, silver black velvet, liner brush in size 1, and lastly, the silver silk 88 mono liner brush in size 20 over zero. Again, these are the supplies that I will be using for our class, but of course, you may use whatever supplies that you already have, and you can also use some alternatives. That is it for our topic, and I'll see you on our next topic, which is comparing watercolor papers. [MUSIC] 4. Paper Comparison: Hot vs Cold vs Mixed Media: [MUSIC] Hello and welcome to this topic, and here we are going to talk about the three different types of paper that you will use for this class. I know for most of you, you're only familiar with the cold press watercolor paper, but there are tons of other papers that you can use for watercolor too and today, I'll introduce you to two of those papers. Now let's begin this discussion with the cold press paper. For this class I'll be using the Baohong Academy watercolor paper, which is 100 percent cotton cold press paper. When we say cold press, that means that these papers were pressed between unheated rollers, line with felt mats. This felt mats create the texture and these textures are the ones that control the flow of water on your paper when you paint. The second type of paper that I will be using is the hot pressed paper. I'll be using the Baohong Academy watercolor paper, which is 100 percent cotton specifically for this class. The main difference between a cold press and hot press paper is the texture. For hot press paper, it is made smooth by passing it through heated rollers after it's made. As you can see here, it doesn't have any glue or texture unlike the cold press one. Personally, for the techniques that I will be teaching you today, I would really prefer for you guys to use the hot press paper, except for the last project that I will be sharing with you. Later on, you will see the difference between these two papers even more. For the third type of paper that we're going to use for this class, we are going to use the Clairefontaine paint on multimedia or multiple techniques paper. So this is in natural color. So what does it mean when we say multimedia paper or multi technique paper? It only means that you can use it on different types of media. So you can use it for water color, for colored pencil, for gouache, or even for charcoal that's what a multimedia paper means. For this one, I'm going to use an A5, but you can use any size. For those who do not have this paper, you can actually use the brown bag from grocery stores so you can reuse those, or you can get a graph paper from a bookstore or regular craft paper from your old journal so it can be resourceful. Again, these are the three papers that we're going to use and I'll see you on our next topic, which is painting tulips. 5. Painting Tulips: [MUSIC] Hello, and welcome to this topic. This one is one of the most important topics for this class, because in here, I'm going to teach you how to paint a tulip, specifically, a white tulip. Before we dive into the painting part, let's understand first the structure of a tulip. I have here a white tulip that I got from a flower market a few days back. It has now bloomed fully, but this is what it looks like when I first got it. Since it's now a full bloomed tulip, the core, which is the yellow strand in the middle, is now visible unless it's laid flat. Anyway, a tulip has three main parts, the petals, the stem, and the leaves. As we have observed, the petals are round in shape, and since our flower is somehow open already, the petals are creating some shadows from each other. Another thing to note is the thin lines on the petals, which is a very beautiful texture. Now for the stem, it's so smooth, as you can see, and then for the leaves, it's longer compared to the usual leaves that you can see on some other flowers. Let's go to the materials. For the paper, I'll be using the Clairefontaine mixed media paper for the first type of tulip lesson that I'm going to share with you. Then for the second type, I'll be using the Baohong watercolor paper in cold press. For the colors, we'll be using the Winsor & Newton titanium white, Nevskaya palitra Petersburg ocher, Daniel Smith undersea green, Mijello olive green, Mijello Van **** brown. Then for the brushes, I'll be using the silver crystal pointed oval brush in size 3 over four, silver black velvet round brush in size 10, silver silk 88 ultra round brush in size 10. Then for the other materials, I'll be using a regular pencil, a kneaded eraser and Schmincke masking fluid. For the first version of tulip painting, I'll be using the silver crystal oval brush for the petals, and then for the leaves and the stem, I'll be using the black velvet round brush in size 10. Using the Clairefontaine paper and my oval brush, let's now paint the petals. As you can see, the petals has a round tip, so is our brush. So it's easier for us to create the petals since our brush has a round tip as well. I'm using white titanium from Winsor & Newton here, and I got a very concentrated mixture. For the stroke, all you need to do is drag your brush, because it's creating the shape of the petal already. Now let's copy the one on the side. As you can see, even the shadow is a little bit copied in here because we are using a very concentrated mixture of color. Let's try it again. If you want to create smaller petals, you can just use the side of your brush, like what I did. All you need to do is really play with your brush, because this shape of it is already oval. So it is really easier to paint tulips using this type of brush. That is it for the first layer. If you're trying to create a very loose painting, this is already okay, but later on I want to add more details, so we will just let for this layer to dry first before we add another layer. While waiting for this layer to dry, we are now going to add some stems and leaves. I'm using the size 10 round brush here, and for the stem, just create a line like this. Don't make it straight. Then for the leaves, all you need to do is drag your brush going down. If you drag your brush, you have to lift it when it's already on the down part, so it will create thinner stroke. Press and then lift. I would also suggest that you don't have to make a very neat type of painting here, add some random thin lines just like what I'm doing, to give an effect that it has some leaves at the back part. Now that our petals are already dry, we are now going to add another layer, so I got a more concentrated mixture of white titanium, and I'm just adding some highlights on some areas. If you're not sure where to add the highlights, it would be best to add it on one side only, but if you want to be more creative, you can add it anyway, just don't overdo it. You can also check some reference photo on Pinterest, so that you will have a guide where to add shadows and highlights on your painting. If you think that the color of your highlight is too far from the color of your base layer, you can wet your brush and dilute the color. This is how we paint our first version of tulips. For recap, we use a colored paper, and you can also use a hot pressed paper and then color it with the background, before painting your tulips. Another tip is to use a concentrated mixture of your white titanium or Chinese white or white gouache, and then third step is to use oval wash brush or filbert brush for your petals. Now let's go to the second version of painting white tulips. This version is still in loose form, but the approach is quite different from the usual painting that I am doing. Again, you still have your own choice on which type of method or painting style do you want to use. Let's begin by drawing our guide for our tulips. If you're not familiar with the shape of the tulips, I have a reference photo on the project section of our class. You can use that. I also uploaded a drawing guide for the tulips. [MUSIC] After drawing our guide, we are now going to put some masking fluid to preserve the white parts. But before that, I'll erase a little bit of our guide so it won't be very visible later. Time to add the masking fluid. If this is your first time to use a masking fluid, I know it's a little bit scary, but don't worry because this is just like a masking tape, but in a liquid form. We're doing this just so later on when we paint our white tulips, it will be easier for us, we don't need to use white color anymore. We just need to add some shadows. Later on you will see that the white tulip will pop out of its background. We will let the masking fluid dry first before we paint the background. Now that the masking fluid is already dry, we're going to add the stem first. I'm using my size ten round brush here. For the color, I am using my undersea green by Daniel Smith. I find the color a little bit dull, so I am going to add another layer using my shadow green from a jello. [MUSIC] Time to add the background. I'm using here a very light mixture of my olive green. I'm just popping some colors on some areas just to make the flower later on pop even more. The principle here, is the darker the color, the more the white part will pop. I hope you get my point. Again, if you add darker color beside white, the white shade will pop out more. It is better to add some dark areas on your tulips just so some areas will pop out. Now I'll be adding the leaves. Same principle, just like what we did earlier on the first version of tulips, same way of painting the leaves. You can also dilute the leaves because this is still a loose type of painting, so you don't have to make your leaves look super defined. [MUSIC] To dilute some color, you can use a spray bottle and spray some water on some areas. This will dilute and spread the color. I'm just adding some details. Now that I'm done, I'm going to let this layer dry before I add another detail. My first layer is already dry, it's now time to remove the masking fluid. You can use a regular eraser or you can just use your hands to remove it. Just be careful because it is better to remove the whole line of the masking fluid than removing it one-by-one. Also if the masking fluid is too sticky, it might ruin your papers. So it is better to use a very concentrated mixture of masking fluids so it will be easier for you to remove it. Also, I suggest that you use from Minka masking fluid because I've tried some other brands and I had a hard time removing it really. [MUSIC] This is what our painting looks like now. It's now time to add shadow. I'm using my Petersburg Ochre to add shadow on our tulip. I am just going to add some shade of it on some parts. I am using a very diluted mixture of the Petersburg Ochre here just to add some shadow. In adding some shadow, you have to check on your reference photo or you have to decide where your light source is. The second step is to add the more concentrated shadow. This will be added on the lines that we have created earlier. As you can see, I added a little bit more concentrated version of the Petersburg Ochre compared to the one that I used earlier. I also diluted it to soften the edge using water. I'm going to put another one here. This is to give an effect that there is a darker shadow in-between the two petals. [MUSIC] I'm going to add some shadow here as well, this is to make our tulip pop out even more. On this part this is the inner part of our tulip, so it has to be darker as well. I want to make sure that the tulip is the star of this painting. I have to make it pop out even more. With that, I'm going to add some more darker colors on this area. Then I'll soften it using a brush with clean water. [MUSIC] To complete the shadow part, I will be adding some shadow here because this is an inner part as well. We're almost done. I know this might be difficult for some of you, but that's normal because if this is your first time to do this, it's really normal to have a hard time, but if you keep on practicing and keep on trying to understand the process, I'm sure that in no time you'll master it. It's even possible that you can develop your own style of painting through this. Don't give up on your first trial. Now, thank you so much for watching this topic, I'll see you on our next topic, which is painting chamomile. 6. Painting Chamomile: [MUSIC] Hello and welcome to our topic. For this topic, we are going to learn how to paint chamomile. If you're not familiar, this is what a chamomile looks like. It looks like a daisy, but it's smaller, and it has rounder petals. Now let's begin our study on how to paint a chamomile. For the paper, I'll be using our Clairefontaine mixed media paper, and then for the color, I'll be using my titanium white from Winsor and Newton. I'll also be using yellow ocher from Mijello and then for the brush, I'll be using this silver silk 88 oval crescent brush in size 3/8. In painting a chamomile, what we just need to do is stamp or brush on our paper. Since an oval crescent brush or a filbert brush has a round tip, which is similar to the shape of a chamomile, we will let the brush do the work for us. You can do this by either pressing your brush on your paper on a flat direction, or by using the side of your brush, just like what I'm doing here on the second chamomile. As you can see, if you use the side of your brush, the petals will be thinner, but still, it looks like the chamomile petals. Let's do the flat version again and as you can see, I'm just letting my brush do the work for me. You can also press your brush just halfway so you can create smaller petals like this. You don't have to finish everything. Just like here, I just created half version and just dumping my brush on my paper. I would also suggest if you let your hands be carefree, combine the flat stroke and the side stroke. Complete the whole flower, but at the same time, add some flowers with incomplete petals too. By this, you can make your composition look more natural because in reality, flowers aren't perfect, so your paintings should communicate that too. Once you're done with your petals, you will let it dry. Once it's finally dry, you can now paint the core. The core of your flower will somehow determine the angle of your painting. As you can see here, the core is placed in the middle part. This shows that the angle that I'm creating is an aerial view or a flat view of my flower. On this part, I am going to create it on top and leave the other area empty. This shows that I am creating a cone-style chamomile, wherein the core is more elevated compared to the petals. Another way to paint a chamomile is by painting the core first, same procedure. Since we painted the core first, we will let it dry before we add the petals. [MUSIC] If you chose to paint your chamomile this way, you have to be more careful. Since we're painting the petals last, there's a tendency that the petals will overpower the core, and if that happens, you can let your petals dry first then we establish your core by painting your core again. I hope you got my point. But again, if your petals overpower your core, you have to repaint your core so that it will be more established, and it will pop out. Another way of painting your petals is by using a round brush. If you don't have a filbert brush, all you need to do is do this stroke. As you can see, it looks like the sidestroke of our filbert brush. But as you can notice here, the strokes is overpowering my core as well. Again, if that happens, you can re-establish your core. But be careful because you need to wait for your petals to dry first. As you can see here, I did not wait, so my core is ruined and the petals, which is the white one, mixed on my core. This is wrong and you should avoid doing this. You really have to wait for your petals to dry first before reestablishing your core. As you can see here, the core here is already dry. What I'm going to do is re-establish it by painting it again with my yellow ocher. [MUSIC] Again, this one is wrong and this one is correct. Chamomiles are prettier with their leaves. In creating the leaves, you need to use a round brush or an ultra round brush. I'm using a size 10 ultra round brush from silver silk 88. All we need to do is create a long, thick, and thin strokes, so same as the ones that I did here. If you want to create a fixed stroke, just press your brush. If you want to create a thin stroke just use light pressure. If you want to know more about the brushstrokes, the brush controls, brush markings, you can watch my roses and vintage stones class here on Skillshare. I have a more detailed explanation of this topic there. In here, you will see on our actual chamomile that it has longer leaves compared to the usual type of leaves that we can see on some flowers, and that's what we did. That is it for our chamomile painting. I'll see you on our next topic which is painting Queen Anne's lace. [MUSIC]. 7. Painting Queen Anne's Lace: [MUSIC] Hello again, and welcome to our newest topic. On this topic, I am going to share with you how to paint this beautiful and delicate filler called Queen Anne's lace. If you're not familiar with Queen Anne's lace, this is what it looks like. As you can see, the Queen Anne's lace has a big stem that connects the smaller step. The smaller stem holds the tiny white sprinkles, which are the flowers, and it also got sharp and tiny leaves around it. Let's translate those characteristics into painting. For the materials that we will be using, I'll be using the Baohong watercolor paper and hot press, but you may also use a cold press one. For the colors, I'll be using the Daniel Smith Undersea Green, Mijello Van **** Olive Green, Nevskaya Palitra Green Earth, and Mijello Van **** Brown. For the brushes, I'll be using the Silver Silk 88 Ultra Round Brush in size 10, and for the details I'll be using the Silver Silk 88 Monogram Liner Brush in size 20/0. We'll start the painting by creating the bigger stem first. I am using the Ultra Round Brush in size 10 for this one. Then after that I am creating the smaller stems. As you can see here, I'm using different sizes for each of my stem. This is to give an effect that there are some stems at the back and some are in front. This is also a way for me to spread the stems and not to make it look as if they're all jump packed in one location. I'll add more smaller stems here just to make our Queen Anne's lace look more for later on. [MUSIC] Once you're done creating your smaller stem, you have to switch your brush into a smaller one. This one is the Monogram Liner Brush in size 20/0, but you can use any detail brush. What you will do here is just create dots like this. By the way, the color that I'm using here is green earth. You may use any shade of green, especially olive green combined with a little bit of Van **** brown. Just create the dots, and I suggest that you put the dots on different areas. Some in the middle, some on the top part. This will give an illusion that the queen and sprinkle flowers are spread all around our stems. [MUSIC] Just continue the process until you're satisfied with the shape and the whole look of your Queen Anne's lace. Once you're done with your main flower, we will add a little bit of leaves. This is just a combination of thin and thick strokes. I am using the detail brush here, but you can use a regular round brush if you want bigger leaves for your Queen Anne's lace. Let's try doing another one. Again, the first thing that you need to do is create the bigger stem. After that, you will add the smaller stem again in different sizes. Remember guys, you can use round brush or a monogram liner brush or a detail brush for your Queen Anne's lace. If you want a bigger size of flower, of course, it is better to use a bigger size of brush, so that it will be easier for you to add the details. Another tip to make your Queen Anne's lace look more interesting is to use different water and color ratio for your shade of green. You may use tea, milk, and water on some areas. If you are not yet familiar with the water and coloration, you can check out my roses and vintage drawing class. I was able to discuss this topic on that class in a more deeper way. Queen Anne's lace may be simple, but as you can see it is so beautiful and it is very useful in adding a lot of beauty on your composition. I will see you on our next topic, which is painting leaves. [MUSIC] 8. Painting Leaves: Hi. Welcome to a new topic which is painting leaves. The first type of leaf that we're going to paint is the one for tulip. Which I have mentioned earlier it's very long and it's very big compared to the usual leaf. For this, we need the big brush and I'm using a size 10 round brush but you can use a size 8 if you want. First load your brush with color and do this stroke. Press, drag and lift. Again, you need to press your brush, drag it, and then lift. Of course, when painting we don't just do straight leaves. We need to create a little bit curve as well to give it a natural shape. With this, just create a slightly S-shaped stroke, just like this. To add dimension, you can add darker shade of color on one side. As you can see, it gave a lot of effect on our painting. Again, you can add a darker tone on one side. If you're tired of the usual stroke of painting leaves, you can also paint it by doing the reverse technique. The reverse technique is thick and then thin stroke going down. That is it for the tulips leaf. Now, let's go to the leaves of chamomile. In painting chamomile leaves we need smaller brush and I'm using the ultra round brush from silver silk 88. For the chamomile leaf, we need to create multiple leaves in one stem. As you can see, it's somehow similar with the leaves of the tulip, but this one is smaller. If we don't have an ultra round brush, you can use a size 2 round brush for the leaves of chamomile. What I love about ultra round brush is that it's too pointy, plus it has longer hair. Now, that is it for the chamomile leaf. The third leaf that I'm going to teach you, is an accent leaf. All you need to do is create the usual leaf that you're creating and then you can add random thin stroke around it. This is good if you're creating a composition because it adds a lot of dimension and a lot of detail on your painting. You can do this on both the tulip and the chamomile leaf. That is it for painting leaves. Let us now go on our first final project, which is painting delicate tulips and chamomile. 9. Delicate Tulips & Chamomile: [MUSIC] Finally, we are down to the class project section of this class. For our first class project, we are going to paint this beautiful, delicate tulips and chamomile composition with a very beautiful pink background. Before we begin, here are the materials that we will be using for this final project. [MUSIC] Let's begin our project by putting some washi tape on the edge of our paper. This will serve as the border of our paper so that it will be easier for us to put the background later on. I am using a 1/4 size washi tape here. If you don't have washi tapes, you can use a regular masking tape or you can just create border by drawing it using your pencil. [MUSIC] Once you're done putting your border, we are now going to apply the background. I'm going to use the Mocha from White Nights Nevskaya Palitra for my background and I'm just going to add a little bit of water on my brush to create the milk mixture of the color. If you're not familiar with the milk mixture, it's a concentrated mixture of the color but still watery. As you can see here, this is the shade of color pink that I am using. If you don't have Mocha on your palette, you can just mix a shade of red or a shade of pink and add a little bit of white in it. [MUSIC] When creating your background, it is best if you will leave a little bit of space between the washi tape and your background. This is for you to make a background that is a little bit raw and not so perfect. It is also best if you will just let your color flow. You don't need to put equal amount of color on each area. The more imperfect, the better. [MUSIC] Once you're done creating your background, we will let it dry first before we paint our next element. [MUSIC] Since my background is already dry, I got my white titanium here and I will get a very concentrated mixture of it, then I will load my brush with a good amount of it and paint my tulip. On this part, we are now going to apply everything that we have learned on our class earlier. If you're not familiar where you should place your tulip, you can refer on the class project resources, so you will have idea of the whole image that we are painting. What we are painting now is the base layer of our tulips. Later on we're going to add another layer for the highlights. Just like what I'm always telling my students, it is okay if you placed your elements differently from what I'm doing. Because again, we may have different size of paper. We may also have different size of brush, so it is normal for you guys to not copy the exact location of my painting. You can also create more tulips than what I'm doing or lesser if you want. [MUSIC] While waiting for the first layer of our tulips to dry, we are now going to paint the stem and the leaves. For the stem, I'm going to use my favorite Undersea Green from Daniel Smith. I'm going to use the ultra round size 10 for my brush. [MUSIC] After painting the stem, we're now going to paint the main leaves. For this, I'll combine my three shades of green, which are green earth, olive green, and undersea green. You don't have to use the exact shades that I'm using, you can choose your own shades. You can also combine it with either sepia or Van **** brown to create darker tones. For the strokes, I want you to apply everything that we have learned on the class. Just create big leaves for the tulips. You can also add random thin strokes to add a little bit of detail on our painting. [MUSIC] We are now down on my favorite part. For this part, we are going to paint the chamomile fillers and in here, I'm going to use the oval crescent brush in size 3/8. We'll use yellow ocher and titanium white for the colors here. If you can still remember, I taught you two ways to paint chamomile and you may apply any of those techniques. [MUSIC] Again, you can add or remove some chamomiles on your painting. You can even use a different shade of background for your project. What I'm sharing here with you is just a bigger picture of our class project. Feel free to express your creativity on your own way. [MUSIC] We'll add some chamomiles here as well. Just what we have studied, we don't have to create perfect chamomiles. You can create incomplete petals. You can also create the cone style chamomile, and you can twist your brush to create different shades and sizes for your petals. [MUSIC] To make things look more balanced, we're now going to add some chamomile here as well on the top part, and on the top side part. [MUSIC] Some areas still looks empty. I'm going to add some incomplete chamomiles here. As you can see, even though I added a lot of chamomile, I still left some space on some areas, like on the middle part, and on the upper right part. Later on, I'm going to put some more details on those areas. [MUSIC] If your first layer of chamomile is already dry, you can now add the course. Again, we are going to use yellow ocher here. But remember, be sure that the first layer is already dry so that the white won't mix with the yellow ocher. [MUSIC] Now let's change our brush to our ultra round brush, and I'm going to add some highlights for my tulips. By this time, I'm sure that your tulip is already dry as well. Get a concentrated version of white titanium and apply it on some areas. Again, some areas and be careful not to overdo this step because if you do, you might ruin your work. [MUSIC] Basically, the important part of our composition is already done. What we're going to do next is to fill the empty spaces using some fillers, some more leaves, and some more chamomiles. I have here my monogram liner brush and I am going to connect the chamomile with each other. As you can see here, I have some very thin lines. [MUSIC] I'm going to do this on all the chamomiles that I have on my painting. [MUSIC] Now it's time to fill the big spaces. I have my ultra round brush again, and I'm going to create the chamomile leaves. Remember what we have studied earlier. We're now going to apply that. I'm going to add chamomile leaves on this areas and some areas that I feel empty. You can do the same. You don't have to follow where I put it. Just put it on the areas that you think are still spacious. [MUSIC] By this time, I know you can now see the difference that the fillers are giving on our creation. The upper part of my painting is still empty, so I'm going to add more leaves here. [MUSIC] Now I'm going to switch my brush with the liner brush from black velvet, and I'm just going to add random thin and thick strokes. This is the usual strokes that I'm adding on my creation to add the row effect. This is just random thin strokes. Also, guys, if you don't have liner brush, you can use a regular detail brush as an alternative. [MUSIC] As you can see, the random thin and thick lines really add a lot of effect on our painting. They look as if there are some branches at the back part and some leaves that are twisted. Now I'll be adding more leaves on the upper part because it still looks empty. But instead of using a very concentrated mixture, I will have to use a light mixture of the color green just so it won't be very obvious and it won't be too strong in the eye. [MUSIC] Aside from adding leaves, you can also add chamomile fillers on some areas. That's what I'm going to do here. [MUSIC] Same steps. After adding your petals, we are now going to add the core of our chamomile. Make sure that the petals are already dry before adding this, remember. [MUSIC] For the final step, we are now going to connect the chamomiles that we have added. I'm using my monogram liner brush in size 20 over 0. [MUSIC] We're finally done with our first-class project. I'm so excited to see your work, so I hope you can upload it on the project section of our class. I'll see you on our next class project, which is tulips with Queen Anne's lace. 10. Tulips with Queen Anne's Lace: [MUSIC] From using hot press paper, we are now going to use mixed media paper. For our second project, we are going to paint this beautiful tulips composition surrounded by Queen Anne's lace. Now before we begin, here's the complete list of materials that we're going to use for this class project. Here's the first brush that I'm going to use for this class. It's the oval wash brush from silver crystalline. We'll begin the project by loading our oval brush with a concentrated amount of titanium white. After that, let's now start painting our tulips. As usual, you can refer to the Project Resources section of our class to get a copy of the finished project as your reference. If you don't have this kind of paper, you can use any brown paper from a cap store or you can be resourceful by using the brown bags from the grocery stores. You can also paint your background with light brown shade, just like what we did on our first project earlier. After that, we will now add the stem for our tulips. I'm going to use undersea green for this, and for the brush, I'll be using a round brush. You can use any shade of green like olive green or green earth, or if you don't have those colors, you can just use any shade of green that is close to these shades. After adding our stem, we are now going to add our leaves. Using the same brush that I used earlier, I'm going to load my brush with different shades of green, so you can mix your undersea green with Van **** brown or your olive green with a little bit of darker green, and then load it to your brush and apply it on your paper. After creating our main leaves, we are now going to add some supporting leaves at the back. We will do this by loading our brush with a lighter shade of green. I diluted the shade of green that I'm using with water, and I'm adding it on my composition. I want you to be carefree and be creative on this part. You don't have to copy exactly everything that I'm doing. Feel free to add different thin and thick strokes, different dancing leaves at the back part. Be carefree, be expressive. The next element that we will add is the Queen Anne's lace. So we will use this as filler. For this, I'm going to use my liner brush in Size 1 and load it with a concentrated amount of green earth from Nevskaya Palitra. For creating your Queen Anne's lace, we will apply what we have learned earlier. Again, we will create the main stems first. I'm adding a lot of stems here on different areas. Then after adding our main stem, I'm going to switch my brush to the mono liner brush, and I'm now going to add the smaller stems, and the dots around the Queen Anne's lace. If you can still remember, I've shared with you earlier that it is best if you will use different water and color ratio for each of the dots and each of the many stems for your Queen Anne's lace. This is to give an effect that there are some details at the back and some are in front. Make sure to make your Queen Anne's lace look full because this is our main filler for this composition. Before I continue adding details on my other Queen Anne's lace, I'm going to add some leaves for these two Queen Anne's lace first. Continue adding details on your flowers and fillers until you've completed everything. Our composition is slowly coming to life, and I hope yours is doing good as well. If you think that you need to add more Queen Anne's lace on some area, feel free to do so. You're not required to copy everything that I'm doing here. Also, if you'd like to add chamomile on this composition as well, feel free to do so. After doing our Queen Anne's lace, we are now going to go back to our tulips. This time I'm going to load my brush with a concentrated amount of titanium white, and add it on my tulips as highlight. Again, just to remind you, you have to be very conscious and very careful in adding some highlights because if you overdo this, you might ruin your composition. If you're not sure where to add it, you can refer to an actual tulip as your guide on where you should add your highlights. You can also check my work here and just copy it. Our final step is to add leaves and Queen Anne's lace on the empty spaces. If you don't want your composition to look overdone, you can use a light or diluted shade of green for the fillers, and the other details that you'll be adding on the later part of your composition. Adding some last strokes here and there, and we're finally done. I'm excited to see your projects, so I hope you can upload it on the Project section of our class. I'll see you on our last project, which is tulips in a plant box. [MUSIC] 11. Tulips in a Plant Box: [MUSIC] We are down to the last project of our class and this time I am going to teach you how to paint this beautiful tulips in a plant box. So before we begin, here's the complete list of materials that we're going to use for this project. [MUSIC] We will begin the project by drawing the guide for our painting. We'll start by drawing the plant box, which is just a simple rectangle with two lines and then after that, we will create the drawing for our tree tulips. [MUSIC] You can check the project resources section to see the reference for this project. [MUSIC] Once you're done creating your drawing, you can erase it a little bit, just so it won't be very visible later on when we paint over it. [MUSIC] It's time to apply our masking fluid. What we're going to do now is apply it on the tulips section, just so it will be protected from our paint later on. [MUSIC] When you're done applying your masking fluid, you have to ensure that it's 100% dry before you start painting. [MUSIC] Since mine is already dry, I'm now going to start painting and I'll do the plant box first. So for the plant box, I'm going to load my brush with a concentrated amount of Van **** brown and as you can see here, I am doing the dry brush technique wherein my brush is not too wet but it's pigmented. So using this technique, I'm mimicking the texture of the wood, which is our plant box. [MUSIC] While your plant box is still wet, we're going to load our brush with a very concentrated mixture of brown and we are going to add some details by creating some lines. As you can see here, I'm not completing the lines, I'm just adding it on some areas to give some shadow effect. [MUSIC] So we will let this layer dry first and while waiting, let's now proceed with the leaves. So I'm going to load my brush with a very light color green. So as you can see, this is a very watery mixture of green and I'm doing this to give an effect that we are painting the leaves at the back part. [MUSIC] When creating your leaves, you need to vary the shapes and sizes of each leaf, so I would suggest that you would have long leaves and small leaves and you will also need to add straight ones and curvy ones. [MUSIC] Continue adding your lightest shade of leaves and the good amount of the space that your painting is covered. So later on we will add another shade of green, but for the first layer, you need to make it full already. [MUSIC] Now I'm going to mix my Van **** brown with my olive green to create a little bit darker shade of green and this is what I will use for the second shade. So make sure that the first layer that we painted on is already dry as well as the plant box before you add this layer. So as you can see, I am also doing different shapes and sizes of leaf for the second layer. [MUSIC] Now it's time to add my stem, so I'm going to use my undersea green for the stem off my tulip. [MUSIC] Then after I add my stems, I am going to use the same color to add the darkest type of leaf on my painting, so as you can see here, I'm adding it on top of my second shade. So this is where you fill all the empty spaces and also this is where you overlap the spaces for the lightest, midtones and the darkest. [MUSIC] Now to add a little bit of detail on our creation, I'm going to get my liner brush and add some random thin and thick strokes on my painting. [MUSIC] We're almost done with the background. So for now what we're going to do is add more dark shade of leaf, so I'll be putting some here. This is to give an effect that there are some falling leaves on our blank box and this is also a nice effect on your creations. So make sure to add some leaves like this on your painting too. You might forget about our tulips. So make sure this layer is already dry and then after that, we're going to remove the masking fluid that we have applied earlier and we are now going to add some shadows on our tulips. [MUSIC] Using a very watery mixture of Petersburg ocher, I am now going to apply shadow on my tulips. So I'll be using my ultra round brush here and I'll be applying shadows on my tulips. So general rule, you have to apply it in-between two petals. So if you have created two lines earlier or some lines on your tulips, you should put some shadow on that area. Using a concentrated mixture of my Petersburg ocher, I am adding some shadow, darker shadows in between the petals, as well as on the top part where it represents the inner part of my tulip. [MUSIC] Since our tulips are white, we have to make sure that the color is popping out on our painting, so we have to add some darker leaves on some sides if we need to elevate the color of our tulip. [MUSIC] We are almost done and I know some of you are also done by now. So if you think that your painting is already done, you don't have to add some details anymore because it is better to focus on the main subject rather than adding a lot of details at the back part. So let's just redo the stem just so it will be more visible. [MUSIC] I just need to add one dark leaf here and some dark leaves here and we are finally done. I hope you guys were able to follow along and I'm so excited to see your class project. So please upload it on the project section of our class and I have some last words for you, so please watch the last video for this class. I'll see you there. [MUSIC] 12. Thank You and See you!: Congratulations for completing this class. I am so happy that you're able to finish and learn how to paint white in watercolor. I hope this will not end here. Use everything that you've learned to practice and improve your skills and remember, practice makes progress. I'm so excited to see the artworks that you have created. I hope you can upload them on the project section. You can also upload them on Instagram and tag me at jennyfloresart. Teaching is one of my greatest passion and I'd really love to improve. With that, I would love to hear your feedback about this class and you can do it by leaving a review under review section. Lastly, if you'd like to ask anything about this class or you want to start a conversation with your classmates, you can do it by starting a discussion on the discussion tab. I'm forever grateful for the trust that you have given me to teach you and to help you on your creative journey. Once again, thank you so much for attending this class and I'll see you on the next one. Bye. [MUSIC]