DIY Ganni Blouse.

1. Introduction.: High fashion designer and welcome. My name is Mary Margo, and I am so excited to bring this course to you because I'm about to share with you how to make this Gani blouse. I mean, I have seen it throughout the Internet different colors and different sizes. And the good thing about this blouse is you can wear it on an occasional and a formal day. So in this course, I'm going to share with you how to draft the pattern the type of materials that I used, and later on, I'm going to share with you how to construct this whole guinea blouse together. Of course, by the end of this lesson, you will definitely have something as beautiful as this or even more that has your own sense of style and taste. I cannot wait to begin the first lesson with you, so see you there. 2. Back,Front and Puff Sleeve Pattern: So in this lesson, you are going to be required to draft both the back and the front pattern. So go ahead and grab your pattern paper, your pencil, and your ruler, and let's dot. So on this pattern paper, I'm going to mark the straight line, which we're going to refer it as the shoulder line. Then proceed and measure yourself from shoulder to waist, which is under the rob cage and then implement those measurement right here on this line. In my case, is actually 16.5 ". You're going to square across the pattern paper as shown. The next measurement is going to be your shoulder measurement divided by two. I'm going to remove half an inch from that measurement because I want the puff sleeve to sit nicely. Now, the neck width is going to be 3.5 and that is a standard measurement. Then you're going to drop from the shoulder point by 1 " and connect it like this to create a shoulder slope. Now for the neck depth, the back one is going to be 1 " low, then reconnected back to the neck width of around 3.5 ". The next measurement you're going to need to measure around your arm hole, and you're going to divide that measurement into two. Mine is actually 9 ", which is the one I'm going to be placing it right here. You're going to mic a straight line across the patent paper, and this line is going to serve as a chest, and this one is the waistline. Now, you're going to extend this mh line all the way to the chest line just like this. Now the next measurement is your bus round circumference. You want to take that measurement and divide it into four plus 1 " of ease. So the reason why you're adding 1 " is because this blouse is a loose one, so that's why I'm adding 1 ". I'm going to extend it all the way down to the waistline. Now, if you want the waist part to be a little bit, you know, tapered, you can go in by half of an inch. Now, going to the neck line for the front, you can decide how low you want your front neck line to be. I will go for 4.5, and I'm going to reconnect it back to the neck width, which is the 3.5 neck width. So just like that, you've created the neck line for the back, and this one is going to be for the front. Moving on to creating the um hole curve, we're going to divide this line into two, find the center point. Once you've marked the center point, you want to go in right here by half of an inch. Now, the front mhle is deeper compared to the back um hole. Right on the chest line, you want to go out by 1 " in a 45 degree angle. Then you're going to reconnect the three lines. And just like that, this one is going to be for the front arm hole. For the back um hole, it's easy. You just want to reconnect this curve line to the center point right here. And just like that, you have created both of your pattern, and this one's going to be the back um hole. Now we're going to go ahead and cut out the pattern, cut from the back um hole, then proceed and cut on the back neckline. You're going to go ahead and grab a new pattern paper and trace out this pattern as is. You're going to trace out the um hole, the shoulder and also the front the back neck line. And just like that, you have the back pattern. Now moving on to the front, I am going to trim off the front and neck line so that we can have the front pattern only, and also the arm hole, go ahead and trace out or trim off the armhole. Please do not forget to create notches where is necessary and also label your pattern. Now, to create a puff sleeve, you need to grab your front pattern and carefully measure around the arm hole just like this. Whatever number you find, make sure that you note it down. And I'm going to mark a straight line. It's going to be referred as the shoulder line. So from the edge of the pattern paper, you're going to mark 3 ". This is going to add for the puffness of this leave. Then you're going to go ahead now and calculate your cap's height. You're going to take your bust round circumference, divide it into 12. Mine is 3.5 and that's the one that I'm marking over here. Now, take that measurement that you took on the front pattern, the Amho one, and place it in between the shoulder and the caps height measurement. So if it passes the line a little bit by half of an inch, it's okay. And then you're going to mark a line in between these two, and then you're going to find the center point of this line, and you're going to mark just like this. Now the next thing what you need to do is to create the sleeve head. So I'm going to mark it with a curve row. So if you want to know how high this sleeve head is supposed to be, you can mark half of an inch higher and then connect it. So right here at the bottom, I'm going to mark the center line and go down by half of an inch and then reconnect this point with a curved row. So this half of an inch is more of a guideline on how deep or higher it's supposed to be. Then I'm going to extend my line all the way down now it's time to decide the sleeve length. Measure from your shoulder to the desired length as shown here on the diagram. And my length for the sleeve is going to be 8 ", which actually ends around the bicep. So I am going to mark this line across the pattern paper. Because this is a pave sleeve, I'm going to mark out by 1 " just like this, and then reconnected back to the sleeve head. Now, I'm going to mark up here by 1 " and reconnect it back to the hemline. And then you just want to blend in all the lines with a three inch mark that you've done on the edge of the pattern paper, including the sleeve head, you just want to blend it all. Now, for the sleeve, remember, it has the back side, which is the straight part, is going to form for the back side, and the one that caves in is going to be for the front side. Proceed and cut out your sleeve pattern. So when you cut the pattern, make sure you cut the backside of the sleeve. Then you want to proceed now and create some notches. Now, as we were drafting the sleeve, I did fold my pattern paper. So make sure that you also create the notches. This will make it easier for pattern layout. And this area it's going to be gathered. You're going to open up your sleeve just like this and trim off the front side of your path sleeve. Now, this area it's going to be gathered, indicate that and also write on top. So I went ahead and I edit one CM of seam allowance all around the pattern. And also, I did transfer all the notches that is required. And also for the front panel, I've edited on the neckline, shoulder, armhole, side seam, including the bottom seam. And for the back pattern, it is going to be cut on fold as should be indicated on your pattern and proceed to add seam allowance, also around the neck line, shoulder, hole, side seam, including the hemline. So these are all the pattern pieces that you're going to need. Now, this part is also optional. I am going to be creating a elastic casing. So I'm going to fold my sleeve pattern like this and measure right here on top, which is going to be 14 ". Now, grab another pattern paper, fold it. And then I'm going to mark that 14 " on this red line that I've marked. And then my elastic casing, it's going to be 2 " wide, which later I'm going to fold it so that it can fit the elastic. So I'm going to mark a rectangle of around 14 " by 2 " wide, which is going to be later cut on a fold. So once you're done, this is how your pattern will turn out. This is how it's going to set. Once you fold it into two, you are going to place it right here on the inside of your sleeve. So these are all the pattern pieces you're going to need. See you on the next lesson. 3. Material, Pattern Layout Assemble sleeve on Blouse.: So in this lesson, I'm going to share with you the types of materials that I used in order to construct this blouse. So right here, I used a Scotch material, which is a cotton material. It doesn't have stretch at all. And then I picked a different type of which is gabardine. I used it to create this ribbon. Now, if you do not want to overwork yourself, you can buy ready made ribbon in order to attach it onto your blouse. Now, to finish off the neckline, including right here on the side panel, you can buy a buyers tape. I made my own buyers tape from a different fabric, which is gabardine also. So you can also buy buyers tape separately, and also right here on the inside, I had to finish it off with a buyers tape. So that's all the materials that I have used in order to construct this blouse. So see you on the next lesson. So to cut out my front panel, I'll need to fold my fabric in half, and I'm going to take my back panel pieces and place it right on fold in the front panel pieces next to it. Same goes with the sleeve. Fold your fabric in half and cut out your sleeve pattern. For the bottom ruffle panel, you need to take your back piece and your front and measure around the waist. And once you measure around the waist just like this, you need to multiply this number by four. So you're going to take another piece of fabric and fold it in half as shown here, because you're going to need a long rectangle panel in order to create the ruffles. So I'm going to fold it in four layers again, just like this. At this point, you need to decide how long you want your ruffle part to be. I'm going to make it 8 ". That includes 1 " for hemming. And once you're done, I've got two rectangle panel pieces. Now, I'm going to take my front panel pieces, place them right sides facing, and I'm going to take another one again, right sides facing and sew a half an inch seam allowance right on the shoulders. Now, for this sleeve, go ahead and grab your sleeve pattern and including your elastic casing. On the wrong side of the fabric, right at the bottom, I've placed the elastic casing two inch away from the hemming of the sleeve. So first, you want to hem the sleeve half an inch and then another half an inch and sew a straight stitch. Now, once you're done, also, make sure that you saw the elastic casing for your sleeve. You're going to knead your sleeve and measure around your bicep and make sure that the elastic it's not too tight because we don't want it to block your blood flow. So make sure that you measure around your bicep or wherever you want the sleeve will end, and then cut out the amount of elastic and feed it through the elastic casing. Now, once you're done like this, you make sure that you saw the ending then the next thing is to transfer your notches that you have marked onto your sleeve. So what I'm going to do this is how it is. It means I'm going to need to ruff, create some ruffles or gathers around this area. And then once you are done creating some ruffles or gathers around the upper part of your sleeve, this is how it will turn out. And your sleeve is complete, just like this. Now we touching the sleeve onto your blouse, make sure that it is right size facing. And remember that you did identify the center notch should match with the shoulder seam and go ahead and pin this all around the um hole and then sew a half an inch seam allowance. Now, once you're done, this is how it should turn out. Please do not forget to iron your work so that it will look nice and professional. The next thing is to sew the side seam. So I'm going to first align the um hole seam just like this and then proceed and sew the sides. So far, this is how your gut should look. If you want to make any changes or you want to reduce the whiteness or even on the sleeve, you can go ahead and do so. So see you on the next lesson. 4. Attaching Riffles And Ribbons On The Blouse.: Now, I'm going to take my two ruffle panel pieces, and I'm going to place them right side facing. Right here on the side, I'm going to sew a half an inch seam allowance, and then it's going to form one panel piece. Now, my favorite part is creating gathers, and I'm going to show you the easiest way to do so. You're going to set your machine on the highest tension and then pull the thread a little bit, not too much to avoid the breaking of the thread. Now, the gathers are formed. The only thing that I need to do now is to spread them around so that they can fit on the waistline of the blouse. Take your gathers bottom and also your blouse, place them right e facing like this. And then you want to proceed and pin the gathers to the blouse and then sew a straight stitch. Now I have my bows over here, and the strap is going to be around 26 " long, and I'm going to cut it in half. Now, once I've cut it in half like this, I'm going to mark or cut six of these pieces. Now to attach the bow on your blouse, first, I am going to attach it the first one around the neck, but make sure that you leave a space of around 1 " away from the neckline. And then you're going to place the second one. So you need to measure from the neck line to the seam on the waistline and mark the center point right there. So from that center point, that's where now you're going to attach your second strip. For the third strip is to attach it on the seam directly where it connects the blouse and the ruffles also. And then the next thing, I'm going to take a facing right here, which is around 1.5 " wide, and I'm going to place it right side facing with the blouse and pin all the way down. Now, once you reach the hem line, you need to first hem, have an inch and another half of an inch on the ruffle, and then take your facing, place it right on top. I'm going to take the facing and place it right on top and then fold the facing up, not in, but up just like this. And then go ahead and pin it down. Now, as soon as you're done, you want to take it to a sewing machine and sew a straight stitch. I've already done or attached my facing. It is time to attach the bias tape around the neck line. So what you need to do this bias tape is actually 1.5 " wide. So I did fold it, and then I'm going to attach it around the neck line. Now, in order for a neat finishing on the inside, I'm going to fold half of an inch on the facing just like this. I'm going to fold it in. And then I am going to take the bias tape and place it on top and then pin it down. Now you're going to do the same thing also onto the other side. You're going to fold the facing right on the edge by half of an inch and then take the bias and place it right on top and then pin it down. Once you're done, this is how it will turn out now. You want to flip it inside of the blouse, and it will give you that neat finishing. Now, to finish off the facing, you're going to proceed now and continue folding that half of an inch inward, then pinning it down all the way to the bottom ham of the blouse. Now, on the bottom, it might look like this. So you just need to fold half of an inch on the facing and another fold and pin it down. This will give it a nice finishing at the bottom. Now, right on the bottom hem, fold that half of an inch and another half of an inch also and sew a straight stitch. And on the neck line, there's already a folded seam. You want to just continue with it that fold seam off the buyers tape and sew a straight stitch on the neck line. And let me show you how you can achieve this. So first, I am going to sew on the edge of the buyer's tape. And then for the neck line, you're going to fold it in and sew right on the edge also. And this is how it will look on the inside, including the outside. Now, at the bottom, this is the last part is to fold the hemming just like this. Now, once you are done, I always advise to press on your work so that it looks nice and neat. And this is the final outcome of the blouse. I'm really loving the bonds or the bows. And for the neck line, this is how it will look. There's a beautiful neat finishing that is made with bias tape. And the favorite detail on this blouse is the sleeve, the beautiful puff sleeve, and, of course, a neat finishing right here on the hem. So let me show you how this blouse turned out on me. And this is how it looks. The bows are tied. And also, I'm loving the length of the blouse. And, of course, like I said, with the sleeve, the length is amazing. I really enjoyed making this project, and hopefully you did, too. 5. Conclution.: Congratulations. You have reached this part of your lesson. And now you own a beautiful Gani blouse. I cannot wait to wear it myself, and I know I can either style it in a casual way and also you can wear this gat on a formal occasion. I cannot wait to see your final project, so please do not forget to post the picture on a project section below and describe to us the types of materials that you have used in order to complete this blouse. Now, as for me, see you on the next one.