Design Elegant Trailing Floral Repeat Patterns in Procreate | Delores Naskrent | Skillshare

Playback Speed


1.0x


  • 0.5x
  • 0.75x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 1.75x
  • 2x

Design Elegant Trailing Floral Repeat Patterns in Procreate

teacher avatar Delores Naskrent, Creative Explorer

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro to PRO 177 Elegant Trailing Floral in Procreate

      0:53

    • 2.

      Lesson 1 Setting Up Canvas and Drawing Base Vine Structure

      7:49

    • 3.

      Lesson 2 Testing Repeat Layout and Adjusting Vine Flow

      6:52

    • 4.

      Lesson 3 Adding Leaves and Flowers to Build Composition

      8:49

    • 5.

      Lesson 4 Repeat Testing and Pattern Refinement

      8:32

    • 6.

      Lesson 5 Textures and Details to Finalize

      4:50

    • 7.

      Lesson 6 The Final Reveal and a Mockup or Two

      11:45

  • --
  • Beginner level
  • Intermediate level
  • Advanced level
  • All levels

Community Generated

The level is determined by a majority opinion of students who have reviewed this class. The teacher's recommendation is shown until at least 5 student responses are collected.

186

Students

19

Projects

About This Class

Design Elegant Trailing Floral Repeat Patterns in Procreate
Soft, seamless florals that feel natural and balanced 

Have you ever wanted to create a seamless floral repeat in Procreate, but felt unsure where to start? In this class, I’ll walk you through my full process for designing a flowing trailing floral pattern from sketch to final repeat tile.

We’ll work step by step through building the vine structure, testing the repeat layout, balancing the composition, and adding beautiful finishing details. Along the way, I’ll show you how I troubleshoot spacing, improve flow, and refine the pattern so everything repeats seamlessly.

This class is designed to make the repeat process feel approachable and manageable, even if seamless patterns have felt intimidating in the past.

What You’ll Learn

In this class, you’ll learn how to:

  • Set up a Procreate canvas for seamless repeat design
  • Create a flowing vine structure for a trailing floral pattern
  • Test your repeat early and often to avoid layout problems later
  • Build a balanced composition with leaves and flowers
  • Add color, texture, and finishing details
  • Refine and finalize a seamless repeat tile
  • Preview your pattern using simple mockups

Why You Should Take This Class

Trailing floral patterns are beautiful, versatile designs that can be used for fabric, stationery, greeting cards, print-on-demand products, wallpaper, and more.

One of the biggest challenges with repeat patterns is understanding how all the pieces fit together seamlessly. In this class, I’ll show you a methodical workflow that helps simplify the process and makes repeat testing much easier to understand.

I’ll also share practical tips throughout the class, including ways to spot awkward gaps, improve flow, and refine your composition before you spend time adding details.

By the end of class, you’ll have a fully finished seamless floral repeat pattern and a workflow you can continue adapting to your own artistic style.

Who This Class is For

This class is perfect for:

  • Intermediate Procreate users
  • Surface pattern designers
  • Illustrators and digital artists
  • Anyone interested in floral design and seamless repeats

Some basic familiarity with Procreate tools and layers will be helpful, but you do not need prior experience creating repeat patterns.

Materials & Resources

For this class, you’ll need:

  • An iPad
  • Procreate
  • An Apple Pencil or stylus

You’re welcome to use your favorite brushes and color palettes, and I’ll also demonstrate ways to build and refine your own palette during the class.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Delores Naskrent

Creative Explorer

Teacher


Hello, I'm Delores. I'm excited to be here, teaching what I love! I was an art educator for 30 years, teaching graphic design, fine art, theatrical design and video production. My education took place at college and university, in Manitoba, Canada, and has been honed through decades of graphic design experience and my work as a professional artist, which I have done for over 40 years (eeek!). In the last 15 years I have been involved in art licensing with contracts from Russ, Artwall, Studio El, Patton, Trends, Metaverse, Evergreen and more.

My work ranges through acrylic paint, ink, marker, collage, pastels, pencil crayon, watercolour, and digital illustration and provides many ready paths of self-expression. Once complete, I use this art for pattern design, greeting cards,... See full profile

Level: Intermediate

Class Ratings

Expectations Met?
    Exceeded!
  • 0%
  • Yes
  • 0%
  • Somewhat
  • 0%
  • Not really
  • 0%

Why Join Skillshare?

Take award-winning Skillshare Original Classes

Each class has short lessons, hands-on projects

Your membership supports Skillshare teachers

Learn From Anywhere

Take classes on the go with the Skillshare app. Stream or download to watch on the plane, the subway, or wherever you learn best.

Transcripts

1. Intro to PRO 177 Elegant Trailing Floral in Procreate: Everybody. Welcome, welcome. Today, we're going to create a seamless trailing floral pattern in Procreate. This is one of those projects that feels really rewarding once it all comes together. It can seem a little complex at first, especially when you're trying to make everything repeat properly. But once you understand the process, it becomes something you can build on again and again. I'm still refining my own approach to this. You're seeing a process that's evolving, which I think makes it more relatable. What I love most is how elegant these patterns look when they're finished. That flowing vine and having it repeat seamlessly is such a satisfying result and we're going to take it step by step so you feel confident as you go. 2. Lesson 1 Setting Up Canvas and Drawing Base Vine Structure: In this lesson, we're setting up the canvas and using the drawing guides to create the structure for our pattern. I'll show you how I sketch out the initial vine and how to position your start and endpoints so everything lines up properly later. This part is nice and simple. We're going to build a framework to work from. Lately, I've been working on a lot of trailing floral patterns and I love creating them in Affinity Designer because I can see the entire preview as I'm working. That said, it doesn't mean it's impossible to do in Procreate. Today I'm going to be showing you how to create a trailing floral pattern in Procreate. Let's go into Procreate and you can see I've practiced it a few times. You can see that this is one that I practice the entire method on and I'm going to be showing you exactly how to do that. What I generally do is have my canvas and divide it by using the drawing guide. Go into your drawing guides here. This is just the grid size that I actually went to the absolute maximum, so I only have the four corners. You don't have to put assisted drawing on or anything, it's just to have these two guides to do your initial vine and I also work mainly on the top corners when I'm creating the repeat because what I need to do is then move it down and have the bottom half done to perfectly fit with the top half. It sounds a little confusing when I'm explaining it, so that's why I'm going to demonstrate the whole thing to you. Just drawn this quick path. Generally, what you want to do is work the first line, having it start and pretty much in the same positions. You could just make a little tick mark there or whatever you need in order to have that happen. I'm just going to go down the middle here and I'm going to make the line to make sure that it meets. I've pretty much started and ended it exactly where it needs to be. You can be pretty rough about this one because this one will just become the basis from which we're going to work. Then I also figure out a couple of the branches that might be coming off of the vine and that's all you need to do your initial testing. You really don't want to have anything too much down here in the bottom half yet. You can even start with just the one, but let's start with the two. Actually, I'll just go back to the one that I had already drawn and you can see that I didn't even go too far to the outside here. I want to generally have the flow of the vine like that and this whole thing will repeat down here and down here. I'm just going to get rid of that one I was sketching and this will be the initial vine shape. Now, in order to test it, you can actually put a couple of marks in the corner here. You just really need the two. These sides are meeting already, so we know that this will just ensure that we can move it and keep it squared. We're going to duplicate and we're going to put four of them into the corners here because this will help us to figure out anything else that we might want to do here. That one really has nothing on it, but if you go through and do all four, you'll get a much better idea of how your trailing floral will repeat. Now, it's really important that you always meet those gold lines and it helps you to double check things like this. You can see why this isn't meeting is because this and this weren't on the same spot. I would go back and then just fix that up right away. You know, as you're starting this that you're getting it accurate. Like I showed you, the best way to do it is to make a little bit of a mark there and then continue your vine. Now I know that the two will generally meet. And I would do that test. We'll just duplicate it the four extra layers here, we've got everything that we need to do the test, make sure that you always see the gold lines when you're dragging the layer into the corners. Because at this point, what we want to do is figure out what else we want to do to fill out this pattern. You can see there's some really big gaps here and that's great. You can put those four together. Those are the outside ones that you're not going to need. But what you want to do here now is to use those as a guide to add to your initial layer. Times I even reduce the opacity of that layer just so that I'm not going to accidentally draw on it. This is the one I want to use, and at this point, I can also sketch out anything else that I want that could fill out some of these areas. For example, here, I might add a vine that goes up this way. We know that there's lots of space here, so we could do one that comes this way. And you might even consider having one or two that go out to the side. I would tell you, at this point, believe it or not, you should still do another test. We're going to get rid of that layer that we had there, and this one we're going to duplicate again the four times, we have all four corners and this is why we test. We want to figure out whether or not we've put the branches in the right place. You can see really clearly why I would do this. Let's pinch these four together here and we'll lighten it up so we know that that's this extra layer that we have, but we can use it to fix up this initial one. What was the problem here? Obviously, these two lines, so these are too long or this one is too long. Which one do we want to get rid of? Personally, I think I would get rid of this one. Make sure you're on the main layer, so I want to get rid of this one. I'm thinking that I should shorten one of these, maybe this one, that would bring that down. I think that one will be okay. This is the one here. Maybe here, this is where we could branch off and do something like this, just to add some interest, and guess what we're going to do next. We're going to delete that. Again, we're going to do a test. Believe me, this is so much more important to do than starting to do any of the drawing at this stage. You absolutely need and want to have this completely worked out at this stage before you're doing any of the inking or anything. When we take a look at it, we see it's a really fully realized design. We can keep that layer and lighten it so we know that we're never going to work on that one. But we know now that the main layer, this one here is absolutely what we need in order to continue with this project. Can also make judgments at this point, for example, here, there is a bit of an extra space. You might want to add a little branch there, always add it to that middle part. If you do add, then you want to also go in and do that test again. Really, it's just worth it. Here, I think I would maybe do it like this. It's in a slightly different spot or I would do it like this so that I know that I'm going to be filling in this area a little even just that small addition, even just something like this or like this, maybe like this, you're going to still want to do the test at this point. In the next lesson, what we'll do is start roughly thinking about the leaves and the flowers that we're going to add. It's just really important for you to end up with this perfect layout before you start doing anything else. Get to this point so that you've got the outside bit that you can look at. But the main vine that you're going to be working on needs to be all on its own layer and all ready to go. I'll see you in the next lesson. 3. Lesson 2 Testing Repeat Layout and Adjusting Vine Flow: Now that we have our base vine, we're going to start testing the repeat right away. You'll see how duplicating into the corners helps you visualize how the pattern is going to flow. We'll make adjustments together so everything connects smoothly before moving forward. All right, we've got this all ready to go now and we can start thinking about how we might want to do our leaves and our flowers. One of the things I do as a test is to quickly add rough shapes in, and I think I'm going to think about those flowers and things first. I want to make sure that I'm on my own main layer. So the absolute stems that we worked out, what I'm trying to do is to also space out those flowers a little bit. I don't want them to be too close together, for example, I don't want them to form a line. I want them to be really quite randomly spaced. Having this on the outside here also helps me to make sure that I don't go past where I need to be. I think I could probably do one here. Don't worry if you're overlapping onto something from the other layer, your flower can definitely overlap other parts of the vine. This might be okay. I'm going to be able to test this shortly, but then I can also rough in where I would want the leaves. I'm going to be doing just a very plain leaf that I can easily replicate with my tapered pen pressure brush, but you of course, can draw the leaves in their entirety if you want. I'm also thinking about the directionality of this whole thing. If it's easier for you, draw the spine first and then put the leaf on it. This one could easily have additional leaves. This is a good way to just get the idea of how it might work. I think here we could probably do a smaller flower maybe. I'm trying to work in this top half and I'll show you why in a minute. See, I'm trying to make it different from this one, but also looking at how the other leaves are going and I'm getting them so they're all pointing downwards. I could definitely do one with a bit of a stem, so I could do something like this and then have several leaves coming off of that. I want this to be a pretty full design. Here, I could do something like this. I'm not sure about this one. I'm not sure if I want leaves here or if I'm going to want another little flower, but let's just do this that we can do our first test. I'll leave this open because I can either put a leaf there or a flower and we're going to get rid of that original sketch layer. We're going to use this one and I think that we'll see a problem with this right away, but that's okay because that's what this is all about. It's doing all the tests first. I've got the four duplicates. I've got the original there and now I can pop these into the corner. So I'm doing it very methodically. I usually do one layer at a time and go into the four corners. This is excellent because it's really giving me the idea of how my whole pattern looks, and I thought I was going to have a problem with one of these, but I think I'm okay. What we're going to do is pinch these top ones together, the sketch layer, that's the entire sketch layer and I'm going to make it light so that I can see what's sketch layer and what is my main layer. On my main layer now, I can go in and finish these up. I'm seeing this other layer here. I know this is this area here, I can put a leaf into there. I think I'm going to put some clusters of leaves here and it's okay if ends up going behind one of your flowers, that's totally fine. But remember that you're only adding to this layer. You don't need to add to this one at all. That said, you can definitely add a leaf that would hit that branch if you know that you want to have a leaf there, you can do that. And here I'm hoping that I have the flowers in good positions. Here I feel like these are maybe too close together or too straight. That is this one here. I think I could move this one lower. I'm going to just erase that, bring it in a little bit lower so it'll end up being down here. Here, I think I could put another little branch. Maybe I'll go the opposite direction from this spot here, but then I could make this into just a little cluster of leaves. I'm not really trying to replicate the one I had in my affinity, but I want to have it similar in that it's got lots of small leaves, then the flowers and you know what we have to do next. We're going to get rid of that layer and then we're going to duplicate and we're testing. This is basically our final test. This will be the one that we're going to use as a guide for inking. We've done all of this. We've worked out all of the positioning and details before we even think about inking and final test like this shows us something that we need to fix. We're going to take that sketch the four that are in the corners and lighten them up so that we can go back to our main layer and we can work out some of this. This is this area here and I'm thinking maybe a flower would work there if I was to put in a flower like that because this could be an actual double stemmed flower. Instead of having that leaf there, I could do something like this where I have a smaller flower that's going to be over here, and I know that I could put in a few leaves. This is going to end up being like this. I know that I could put in a couple of leaves here. Those will end up coming off of that. We may be able to just leave that for now or sometimes what I've done, and it's a cheater way of making sure that these meat is to have one leaf that actually goes into that position. I don't think I'm going to do it for this one. But I think this is all going to work out and part of it will be how we shape our flowers. There's spots like this where I could have the leaf going in behind the flower, and I think here we'd have a leaf and maybe something like this. Let me do both of those over again. Maybe I'll do both of those at this angle. I'm not sure about this. This ends up being this branch here. I think we've got probably enough flowers, but we could test out a flower in that position. It could be that what we do is erase this whole thing, put the flower in or the positioning for the flower, and then just redo the way those leaves were. That's one of the ways that you can also work it when you're fixing up areas. Then what I'll do is meet you in the next lesson where we're ready to start thinking about our colors and our inking. I'll see you there with my duplicated and finished sketch. 4. Lesson 3 Adding Leaves and Flowers to Build Composition: In this lesson, we'll start adding leaves and flowers to build out the design. I'll talk through spacing and direction so the pattern doesn't look too repetitive or stiff. The goal is to keep things feeling natural and balanced as we develop the composition. All ready. As promised, I finished that last test and I think everything is good. I think I'm ready to start inking. This leaf here, I'm just going to tilt a little bit more when I'm inking it so that it fills the space. I could easily just make that change right now. I know it's going to have to be more like this. You can decide what you want to do either end your stem so that it goes right into this leaf or you might want to do something like this where you have a little bit of a bud and anywhere else that you see that there's maybe a little bit of space that you want to fill, go ahead and do that, but just make sure you're doing it within this diamond shape. Maybe right here, we could use one and right here, this actually fixes this issue here. I think now this is my final inking sketch that I need. I'm going to delete everything else and this is what I'm going to work with and I'm going to make this quite a bit lighter in the background. What I need to do now is to do the inking. Let's choose a nice color palette for this. Sure I'm anchoring for today, but I would choose a palette that I could keep fairly simple. I think I do want pink flowers. This might work. I don't think I'm going to need any of these peach colors, but I'm going to choose this one as my active one and I'm going to clear. I'm going to work within this color palette, but I think I'm going to do more pinks than peaches. We'll see. If you look at this one here, I really like this color scheme that had pinks and peaches put together. And gray blue in the background and teal colored leaves. Maybe that's what we'll stick to. In fact, for a situation like this, what I could do is a screen capture of this. I only need a small part of it and save it to my photos. Then I could go back into Procreate here, go to my color palettes and add a palette and I'm going to create new from photos. I'm going to grab that one there. And that becomes my new palette that I'm going to work with. That's going to be those exact colors. I really like this. I think this is what we'll stick to. I'm going to grab the darkest green or one of the darker greens here to get started. I'm going to use my tapered pen pressure brush. You'll know that's my favorite. Here I'm going to start the inking and I know that this is going to end up having to be fixed at some point, but I'm going to try as best I can to mimic that thickness at the top and at the bottom. You can also do it like this where you don't even touch the top and bottom. It's up to you, but just know that you will have to probably make a little bit of a correction there. Now, the other thing I'm going to do is I'm going to vary my thickness a little bit so that I'm not perfectly consistent with it. That is my main stem and I know that I will end up having to make some adjustments there, but now I can go through and add any of the other stems that I want in there. This is the main nee. As you're going along, you can be doing little bits of correction if you need to. But you're wanting to keep your lines flowing really nicely together and being quite consistent in the thickness that you're using for the whole stem. Everything else will probably end up being a little bit smaller, but I might do something like these sprigs, and you can just put a dot literally a dot when you're doing the flowers and that'll look just fine. You could have these in green if you wanted to. I think I'm going to wait and I'm going to try them in color. Then for the leaves themselves, completely up to you, you can draw the entire leaf by hand in this way or you could use extreme pressure changes to make the shape of your leaf. So if you're comfortable doing it that way, then go ahead and do it. So I start really light, and then I put heavy pressure on and I then ease up on the pressure when I get to the other end of it. I'm going to lighten this sketch just a little bit more. So this is my preferred way to do it, make sure that you're on your inking layer. Another reason why I like lightning this sketch because then I know when I'm accidentally going on the layer that I have as a guide, then the brush comes out in a really light color. If you're comfortable doing it this way, it can be very fast and it doesn't mean that you can't do some of them in this way if you want to. I think that it's nice to have a little bit of variety with your leaf shapes anyways. Times you might want to have it extremely pointed or have a real long stem at the end. If you're comfortable doing it this way, then go ahead and do it this way and if you prefer to do it by drawing in your leaf, then do it that way. Neither of them is the right or the wrong way to do it. Sometimes for the bigger ones, it's a little bit easier for me to do it by drawing the whole thing. Again, I'm trying to change direction with some of them. I'm trying to be a little bit inconsistent with them and I can always go back with the eraser and make some of them pointy if they didn't end up that way in the first place. It's completely up to you. This is really a stylistic choice at this time, I'm going to go through and do all of these so we can time lapse this. There's some times that I will do something like this where I'm going to leave a bigger gap there and I'm going to show you why in a minute. I've got all of the ones in the dark color done, and what I want to do now is also switch to slightly lighter shade and I'm going to add some of the leaves on a different layer in that alternate color. These will be on top and this is why I left a gap here because I figured it would be nice to do something like this. Here I could have this leaf going over top, so I could do something like this. And do I have them all? I think there was one down here. So this one down here. I think that's pretty good for now. Sometimes what I do is I hide my sketch for a second to see how it looks overall, and there are some bumps and things I'm going to fix. My hands are a little bit shaky today. Now I'm ready to actually do the flower. I'm going to add a layer and I'm just going to use flour that is just a very basic flow you can do more than one flower. You can go to one of your flower brush sets and grab a couple of different ones. I've already made these bigger from a previous project I was working on, so I think I'll use that and I'm going to do some of them in pink. I'm going to do one layer for pink and I test the size by hovering a little bit over it, and then I can see it. What I'm going to want to do is alternate where I'm positioning these and a hard stamp will make sure that it is opaque. I really like to do this where I rotate to draw the flowers in because that makes them look a little bit different. So I'm going to go a little bit smaller with this one, then I think I'm going to grab more of a peachy color. Grab a different flower, slightly different. This one, I'll do the same thing where I rotate the canvas. The reason you want to rotate the canvas rather than rotating the flour itself is because you're going to be able to keep it nice and sharp. Now, you could have switched layers for that so that you have the peach ones on their own layer. Let me put this one in. Again, I'm going to rotate and even lighter peach. I could even go to a slightly different shape again. They're all a little tiny bit different and I think that makes the pattern nicer in the long run. I've got all of those and I don't know. Do I draw this one in? I can't remember, but we'll put it in and we can always take it out if we don't want to because I'm not sure if this one ends up being this one here. Let's put it in and we'll go from there. Now, for those little bulby things that we had, we could just go back to the pen pressure brush or even the pasta Posca will give you a perfect circle if that's what you want. I'm going to use my tapered pen brusher brush because I think I would possibly change the shape of it slightly. Instead of just circle that it actually looks like a bit of a bud, I was calling it a bulb, but it's definitely a bud. Here, same idea. You could switch it up if you wanted some of them to be in maybe the pink color, grab the pink to do this one, and maybe this one. Overall, I think we've got everything that we need here. Let's turn off the sketch for a sack. This would be where I would go in and make any corrections if I wanted to sharpen up some of the leaves or change them. I'll do that off camera. I'll come back with this finish and then we'll be able to check out our entire repeat. 5. Lesson 4 Repeat Testing and Pattern Refinement: Here's where we refine everything and make those important adjustments. We'll test the repeat again and fix any areas that aren't working. So of course you could have also just inked your flowers. I went through and really double checked everywhere that I wanted to fix up. I made sure that these leaves line up there. So that's the lighter ones because at first was going to have them behind, but I think they're going to be fine in the position that they're in right now. Here's a good chance to again, look at it and decide if there are empty spaces that you might want to fill that one might be one there. With that other one that I did in Affinity Designer, I often put things in that weren't necessarily even meeting the branches or being at the end of a stem just to get the balance really nice. That's something that you could take a look at here at this point. I'm thinking we probably could use a flower in maybe this position here. Would go back to one of the flower layers. Let's go to this one and grab that pink, grab one of the flowers that we use, and then add it even though it's not at the end because there's so much foliage there. I think it's going to look fine. I think for this one, I'll really turn and I think I've got enough of a variety there with the flowers this is, again, time to test. Let's go to the green layer and we're going to grab the tapered pen pressure brush, put little tabs in the corner, group all of this stuff to just do the test. This is just a test unless you just want it to be plain, then it could be your final pattern. But what I want to do is add texture and whatnot to these. I'm going to take each of these and move them into the corner. I had five in total. Remember, you need to see that snapping and already I see an error and that was that extra flour. Remember, I was questioning whether or not that should be there or not. I'm just going to backtrack before doing the test and actually get rid of that now because I do not need it and I suspect it as much, but I just wanted to show you now we'll go back and duplicate these groups, so we're going to get the five in total, five, and then we're going to pop those into the corner. Remember that you're trying to see that gold line every time and don't hesitate to make your canvas bigger if you need to. Just remember not to do your pinching on the square itself, but to do it around the outside of it in order to be able to position it. This is just a test, but this tells us a lot right here. What I normally do at this stage is I go in and I duplicate it because we've done so much work. It would be a shame if we lost any of it. Then I also like to pinch these all together, duplicate that middle one, and flatten it so that we can pinch these two together. That gives us the entire repeat that we can test. Let's do that right now. We're going to make four of them. This is going to give us a good bird's eye view of the pattern. We're going to select all four of those, make them half size, and we can just take and individually move these to tell us about any gaps and things that we might need to work on. This is the perfect way to do it. I think overall, it's really good at this point. This area here could use a little this area right here. But otherwise, it really looks pretty good. I think we're going to make that stem a little bit longer there. What I like to do here is just to take only one of these squares and make the corrections on it because this will be another thing that we can use as a guide. Let's do this bottom one here. That's this corner and we'll just make those little corrections there. Things like adding leaves. We're going to do all the different things that we need to, but we're going to do them in such a glaringly wrong color that it'll be obvious to us once we enlarge this to fit the rest of the original size pattern. Here I would think about adding either a leaf or another bud. I think a bud would be cute. I'm going to do something like this so I know exactly what I want to put there. I think here we would need maybe a leaf. I'm thinking maybe another bit of vine that comes out from that flower and has a leaf on it, and I'm trying to stay away from that guideline. Here, I think we could use something and same with right here, Let's put the stem in like this and we're going to leave it because we can go in and draw that afterwards. Rough it in so you know, but you can decide whether should that be a leaf or should that be a bud? We could do something like this and we're going to have that to deal with. I'm going to show you how to do that in a second. What else do you see? Maybe here. Here we could add another leaf. That could be in that alternate leaf color, that would be cool there. This is that part that we already know about here. I mean, other than that, it's not bad. I guess this could use a bit of a leaf here, and this is just going to guide us and we know that we can enlarge and I'm going to show you how we would deal with that in a second. What we'll do is keep this one, we're going to delete all of these, and we're going to duplicate this one because what we're wanting to do here is to get that leaf there at the bottom as well. So this is going to be fairly rough, but this is the way I would do it is I would take the rectangle selection tool. What I want to do is just cut that off, so I'm going to cut and paste and I want to make sure that I bring it straight down. With the snapping and magnetics on, I can slide straight down and add that. So we know that we've got that full section. Here we can get rid of that that's overlapping at this point. We're just going to cut that off. We know now that anything red is going to need to be added to our main stem, this one here, and we would need to enlarge this backup to full size. We need it roughly and what we can do is really lighten that so that we can go back to our main layer here. And make those corrections. It's really easy to see what we need to do here. You can put that beneath it because all we need to see are these changes that we need to make here. Let's do that. We're going to grab the lighter green color, sampling that lighter green color to add this leaf here, make sure that you're on the layer that works with. We're going to just add this one here. We're going to add this one here. We're going to draw one more here and that's going to be in behind the flower, which is perfect. Let's taper that and a little bit. This is the one that's tricky because you need to have it for the top and the bottom and you need for it to match up. I'm going to do that one on a separate layer and I'm going to do that part of the leaves. What I need to do is have the markings in the corner because I'm going to duplicate and let's bring these out so that we can hide the main layer so you can really see what I'm doing here. I'm hiding everything else. I've got the marks in the corner there. So what I can do is take this layer and move it down, snap it to the center. We just need the one copy of it and we'll just go in and finish up those leaves. I'm just going to quickly draw those, making sure that it matches up perfectly. If you have to enlarge, go as large as you have to, and we can actually finish that bottom off a little bit nicer. I'm going really big so that I can make sure that I match it up beautifully. I think that's going to work okay. Double check, triple check if you have to use your eraser or your hand to just get that perfectly aligned. Again, we're going to do corner marks here. We're going to duplicate that layer, and then we can do top half, bottom half. Now we know that they're perfectly aligned. We can pinch them together and we can bring them into the layer. I'm going to put them behind the main vine. Let's turn this group back on. We've got all of the leaves here together in one group and we've got the flowers in another group, which is going to make it a lot easier for us to add any texture or anything that we need, and you can do any finishing you want on this. In the next lesson, I'll show you what I'm going to do. It's going to be very simple and basic so that we can test out that final pattern. I'll see you there. 6. Lesson 5 Textures and Details to Finalize: In this lesson, we'll add texture detail to give the pattern more depth. We'll use layers and clipping masks to build up interest and then assemble the final repeat so you can see everything working together. This is also a good moment to make any last minute tweaks. Alright, we're ready to start the final leg of our little journey here in creating some texture and detail on these leaves. So let's take a quick look at this one in Affinity Designer. Here, what I did was just a basic guash of a brush stroke. You can do anything you want. You can even add textures that you may have from kits that you've bought or had from me, from other classes. For example, on these leaves here, I could add a clipping mask and I could just grab a texture that I have. Let's go to the bits and bobs from the card challenge and I could grab something like this chicken scratch because it's a lighter green that I have on my brush right now, I could just go through and add that texture to all of the dark green bits. Now, I think when I was doing my corrections, I remember that I had wanted to correct that spot there, so I'll go back and do that in a second. But you can see how quickly you could add texture because you're doing it on a separate layer, you could always change your mind if you don't like it. As I get to the top here, I'm just going a little bit lighter. This is a texture that you can really build on. You could do additional color. You wanted to go a little bit brighter and you wanted to go in and add a little bit here and there that's a little bit brighter or take something from the palette that you created. Some of these you could go in and definitely make a little bit different. Then you can do the same thing and go to the lighter leaf layer, add a clipping mask, and then use the darker color to go in and add a little bit of detail on those or you could go lighter. At this point, you're using your own artistic judgment. I remember that we had done those in a different color. There you could go and add a clipping mask and add some of a different color onto that. This is just a quick idea. You can do as much detail as you want. The prettier you make this at this point is basically the prettier your pattern is going to be at the end. I'm going to grab my jagged soft brush, which will give us the same look as I have on the one infinity Designer. I'm going to sample my pink and go just a little bit lighter. And there I add a clipping mask, check the size, and I could just put a little bit of fresh work on these because none of them are overlapping, I honestly could have had these two together to do this work, which would make it a lot faster. I don't have to switch to the other layer. All the pink ones have been done. I'll sample this color and go lighter to do these. You can decide whether you want to also add flower centers. I'm doing a really quick job of this and I'm sure I'll go back in and do a lot of additional finishing, but even that little bit of difference has added I think a lot to it. I'm thinking this flower here, you see here in the background could be slightly moved. I don't really like to do a lot of moving of things, but I think in this case, it would make a little bit of a difference if I slightly move this to the left and I'm going to take off the snapping and magnetics. You see it here, what I'm trying to do is mitigate that bit of space there and it's a very small move. I don't think it'll degrade the quality that much, but I think it'll make a difference to my overall design. Yes, you can decide about whether you want to do flower centers. I've got plenty of premade ones in brush sets. I would find one that I think would work. There's a whole bunch of them. I think one of these would probably work and I could add another clipping mask and size it appropriately, maybe go a little bit lighter or darker and I could add flower centers. This is a good time to also test again if you wanted to and just double check. I'm going to pretend that I'm at the finish stage right now and just go for it. I'm not sure about that whether the darker color is going to work, but let's just go with it. I want to fix the end of this one. I'm going to go to my dark green here, sample the color and just use my pen pressure brush to fix that. It was pretty good, but I just wanted to make it even better. At this point, I'm really at the stage where I would consider this pretty much finished. I'm going to duplicate it and in the next lesson, what we'll do is our final final of our pattern. I'll see you there. 7. Lesson 6 The Final Reveal and a Mockup or Two : I always like to wrap things up, taking a look at the pattern and seeing how it works in context. I'm going to show you how its applied to these different mockups. I like trying it on fabrics and stationary or other surface design products. Here we are at the final stage where we're going to duplicate this and put it into the four corners and that's going to be our finished patterns. I'm going to delete the sketch layers because we don't need them. We know we have that other document anyways as a backup. I take a look at it at this point and think about some of these spaces, whether I want to do anything with them. If I do, I would maybe do a new layer, and for that, you could really simply just put some dots of color. You could draw leaves that could be coming out from behind the flowers go to your layer and you could add something here if you wanted to, and then you could go and add your texture to it on the texture layer. It's not bad. There probably are things that I could improve, but I think I'm pretty close to what I would consider finished here. Make sure you're on the clipping mask to add any texture to it. I think that fills in those areas. You'll know once you do your final pattern, whether or not it is working the way you want it to. At this stage, you could go through and group everything. You can even if you wanted to flatten this because you've got what you need for the four corners. If you ever slightly scared of doing that, then definitely go in and duplicate first and then go in and make that change. Here I would now be able to flatten this group, erase these markers. I can leave these in to help me do this next step, which of course is duplicating and I need five in total so that I can do each corner, put your snapping and magnetics back on if you had turned it off. Pop each of those into the corners. You're going to want to group those four together, pinch those four together so that you can erase that marker in the middle. Now you've got your repeat pattern. This is it. You've got it. You can take it in cases like this where you've got that overlap, you might want to put that underneath, and this is your final pattern here. Really, this is perfectly viable as a pattern exactly the way it is. You could duplicate and do your check, taking each of these, reducing it in size, hide that other one, and then you can move these. I think it's gorgeous. I think this is worked out really, really nicely. I love it. I think that another thing that you could do is to add texture to the background. I'm going to go back to having just the one layer here, because I've got so many patterns that I've created in my brush making that are seamless repeats, I could easily take and grab one of those. Let's go into one of those sets and see what I've got here. Any of these patterns could be put into the background and work really nicely. I'm going to take something pretty dense like this one, or maybe a stripe might be cool and even with these where the lines are at an angle could be really viable or something like this, a basket weave might be cute. I'm going to copy that layer and I'm going to go back to the pattern. There's the final one that we did here I would paste the layer, put it in behind, and then that one we could colorize by putting another layer above it. I can't just do the alpha lock because the white is there as well, so there's no clear areas here. But what I do is I just add a layer and then let's go with maybe this light light pink here, maybe a little bit darker and we'll just put an overlay on it by using a blending mode. I think this lighting works really nice I think that's probably the best one for now. In order to change the overall color of it, the best way to do it, in my opinion, is to go to your selection panel here and change this to color fill, and then go to the layer that you want to fill. Let's just try it with a really dark color. I know I'm not going to use that color, but I just want you to be able to see this. What you're going to do here is select and it's going to fill with whatever color you have here, but that gives you the freedom to do this, which is to move around on your palette and change the background to be whatever color you want. Reason that I'm doing that rather than just an alpha lo, it's because this pattern that I created has a white background. I think that's super cute. I think that this could be a great pattern. In order to test this because we can't flatten this layer because that's what happens. What you want to do is copy all of this together the way it is. I think I'm going to lighten that background just a little bit more because I feel like this flower is really getting lost in it. We could do that select again and it's a much lighter color now. Check it out whether you want to go light or dark. But I think just a really light pinky color like that still allows that flower to show through. But because we can't flatten this or we lose the background, then what I would do here at this stage is do a copy all. This is for testing. Three fingers swipe down, and then you can do this copy all and then we'll paste that. We have the layer that has the background and everything on it. We can turn off those other ones and this one, what we're going to do is three copies of it, so we have four in total. We're going to select them all, reduce them in size, and then now these can be moved so you can get your final pattern here. That's this one and this one and we can take two of them and move them down and then just take one and move it to the side. That is a super cute pattern. I think that it's turned out really well. You could turn your guides off we have a perfect repeat. I think it looks great. I think the texture is really nice. I would definitely spend more time on it with the coloring and certain things like when I did the repeat that I could have put the copy of the leaves in behind. But otherwise, really as a test, this has turned out to be a really lovely pattern. All right. Are you ready for the final reveal? I made some changes here and amongst the things that I did, I'm going to show you this in an isolated layer. I have added a little tiny bit of shading to some of the leaves. Let me isolate this too. I added some additional textures and things to the flowers. Remember, we did that part. We had added this detail, so just a little bit of gouache painting in there. We had put the centers on. But then I also went through and added some additional textural lines in here. I think that really elevated the flowers themselves. Let's take a look at the whole thing together. That's it at the finish stage, ready to be repeated. This background is different. It's a slightly bolder gingham pattern. I'll show it to you at full strength there so you can see it. I've only got it at about 20% here, but I liked that pattern better. At this point, I'm ready to do the final layout of the pattern and I wanted you to see that. What I'll do is, of course, make my four corners. What I want to do this time is grab the ones underneath. I'm going to keep this one on top so we don't have that issue with the flour being under a leaf, I think it was. We'll leave that group on the very top now because I've got the background within the group, I didn't need any of those corner marks anymore and we can just slide everything, grab the next group here and of course, slide it into the corners, making sure my snapping and magnetics are on first and just being doubly sure that I see both gold lines there. If you have to enlarge it as big as you need to to see that that snaps into the center, see I've got the two gold lines there. Grab the next one and we'll do the same thing, taking it right into the very corner, enlarging. When you're enlarging and you've got it almost in position, make sure you don't touch it because you could easily enlarge it. We're going to snap that in. The reason it gets so hard to do the snapping when you get to this stage is you've got so many things that your design could snap to, it could be trying to snap to some of the leaves or something like that. I just would rather be 100% sure. That's why I am taking it up to this size to make sure that I get that correct. And now I've got my complete pattern. Here I would do another test where I group all of these, duplicate it, flatten the group, turn off the big one, and then this one we would just do that simple corner test. You can duplicate it. I've got the four that you need. That becomes our final tile. Now, again, I did have that leaf in the front, so I'm going to go back and fix that part of it up, but I'm going to turn off my guides here so you can see it without the line going through it there. I'm happy with it and I'm glad I did some of those leaves a little bit darker. I'm going to go and let's figure that one out. We've got this flower behind a leaf and we've got this flower behind a leaf. We need to take this bottom corner and move it up, and then we also need to take the left bottom corner and move it up in the stacking order until it's on top and that's all it would take. Here we can do this test again, group, duplicate, flatten, make four versions of turn off the main pattern tile, take all of these, reduce them down to one of the corners, doesn't matter which one, and then you can move these into the individual corners. Sometimes I do it this way. Sometimes I'll just do the top two and then I'll copy them and put them into the bottom two spots. But all in all, I'm very happy with this. I think that this is a super viable pattern that I could use in any collection. This could be the main print in the collection. It could be coordinate. I could use all of these elements in a card design, which is what I did with the one I had in Affinity Designer. I had the pattern that I created and then I used that pattern to create one of the greeting cards that I have. This is the one that I did with that in the background and look how pretty that looks. This is different enough from this one that I could offer both of them in a collection of some sort. I hope that's really helped you to understand the process of making a trailing floral pattern in Procreate. My personal choice would be to do it in Affinity Designer where I can see all the repeats. There's not so much of the testing. But if you prefer to use Procreate, you can certainly create a really beautiful design with lots of detail, lots of texture, a nice background. All of that could be easily done here in Procreate. But otherwise, really as a test, this has turned out to be a really lovely pattern. I hope this hasn't been too confusing for you. The most important thing that you need to remember is that when you're working on it to work on that center section only, that's where you're going to do all of your texturing and drawing and fixing and all of that stuff. Then in the end, you have a beautiful trailing floral pattern like this. Thanks for sticking it out. I hope you enjoyed it.