Crochet a Cozy Hooded Coat for Your Amigurumi Doll | Olga Bortniak | Skillshare

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Crochet a Cozy Hooded Coat for Your Amigurumi Doll

teacher avatar Olga Bortniak, Crochet designer, dollmaker Olgamigurumi

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      1:48

    • 2.

      About the Project

      1:48

    • 3.

      How the Coat Body Is Constructed

      1:45

    • 4.

      How to Calculate the Starting Chain

      2:10

    • 5.

      Crocheting the Top Part

      1:18

    • 6.

      Separating Sleeves and Body

      3:17

    • 7.

      Crocheting the Body

      1:00

    • 8.

      Adding the Sleeves

      2:53

    • 9.

      Shaping the Hood

      2:56

    • 10.

      Edging and Finishing Touches

      2:58

    • 11.

      Cord and Optional Details

      2:19

    • 12.

      Wrapping Up

      1:47

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About This Class

In this class, you’ll learn how to crochet a tiny hooded coat for your amigurumi doll. This is not a step-by-step tutorial. Instead, I will show you the key points you need to understand so you can make the coat and adapt it to your own dolls.

We’ll look at the main parts of the coat:

  • how to shape the body
  • how to make the sleeves without sewing
  • how to create a hood that fits your doll
  • how to add a clean edging
  • how to add simple decorations like tassels or pom-poms

I’ll use one of my amigurumi dolls as an example (the same one from my previous classes), but you can make this coat for any doll or amigurumi animal.

This class is for crocheters who already know the basic stitches and how to increase and decrease. If you like making dolls, small accessories, or creative crochet projects, you will enjoy this class.

By the end, you will have a cute hooded coat for your doll, and you’ll understand how to change the size and shape so you can create your own versions.

Materials / Resources

  • Cotton or acrylic yarn
  • A hook that matches your yarn (I use 3 mm)
  • Optionally tassels or pom-poms
  • Yarn needle and scissors
  • Your amigurumi doll for trying on the coat

You will also get a printable PDF pattern to follow along. Find it on the Project & Resources tab.

Why Learn from Me?
I’m Olga from Olgamigurumi. I love designing dolls and tiny clothes. My goal is to help you enjoy crochet and learn simple techniques you can use in many future projects.

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Olga Bortniak

Crochet designer, dollmaker Olgamigurumi

Teacher

Hi! My name is Olga. I'm a crochet designer and a dollmaker.

I make dolls for sale, offer premium and free crochet patterns, share video tutorials on Youtube and Instagram. Also I love to draw and colour!

I can't live without learning and I would like to share my knowledge with you!

You Can Find Me on:

Instagram

My Youtube Channel

My Etsy Shop

My TikTok

My Facebook

See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi and welcome. I'm Olga from Olga Mi groomi. I'm a crochet designer and a big lover of Emi groomi dolls, miniature clothes and cozy handmade details. I've been creating Emi groomi characters for years, and I've also taught several classes here on Skillshare, like how to crochet the doll's body, embroider the face, make the hair, and even design her dress and boots. In this class, we're going to add a new piece to the wardrobe of our dolls, a tiny hooded cod. This isn't a step by step class. It's more like a guide where I'll show you the key points, shaping the body, adding the sleeves and hood, finishing neat edges, and adding small decorations. You'll learn how to adjust the cod to fit any doll, make the hood and sleeves fit perfectly. Add fun details like tassels or pom-poms. I'll use my own doll as example, but you can easily adapt everything to your own doll or Emi groomy character. Along the way, I'll encourage you to try test and adjust each part. By the end you have a beautiful hooded coat and the confidence to create your own toll clothes. Let's get started and have fun crocheting. 2. About the Project: Hi, everyone. Welcome back. In this class, we'll make a tiny hooded code for your E groomi doll. This isn't a step by step tutorial. I'll show you the K point so you can understand how the code works and adapt it to your own doll. I'll be using one of my own dolls as an example, the same one from my previous classes. But you can make this code for any doll or Emi groom animal. In the project resources section, you'll find a printable PDF pattern or the code designed for my dog. Remember, if your doll is a different size, you might need to adjust the number of stitches, the code lens, the sleeve lens, or the hood size. To open the file, you'll need a password, which you can see right now on the screen, what you learn. How to adjust your work to fit your doll, how to attach parts without sewing, how to add small details that make your coat special. Materials you'll need cotton or acrylic yarn, hooks that match your yarn, yarn needle and scissors, and your emigrmy doll to try the cod or you can practice on its own. Project is to crochet a tiny hooded cod for your doll. You can follow the written pattern for your first d. Then make a second one using your own measurement. Add decorations if you like, or keep it simple. It's your code. When you finish, try it on your doll, take a nice photo, and share it in the project gallery. I'd love to see your creations. Sharing them inspires other students and helps our creative community grow. 3. How the Coat Body Is Constructed: Before we start crocheting, I want to quickly explain how this cod is constructed. We crochet from the top down, working flat because the cod stays open in the front, and the whole piece is made by always working into the outer loop of each stitch. This means when we are on the right side, we take the loop that is closer to us, the front loop, and when we are on the wrong side, we take the loop that is farther from us, the back loop. This makes the fabric softer more flexible and gives it a beautiful drape. The structure is a ragland shape with four increased points that form invisible lines separating the front panels, the sleeves, and the back. Every time we reach one of these points, we always do an increase. In my partner, I make one single crochet, one chain, and one single crochet in the same stitch. Little group creates the regular increase and the chain in the center is the point to make an increase in the next row. Between those increases, we have five sections right front, right sleeve, Beck, left sleep, left front. Row by row, each section grows naturally thanks to these increases. And the best part is that this construction lets you adjust the width of the coat and also the slips from the very first row just by changing how many stitches you give to each section. We 4. How to Calculate the Starting Chain: Now we are going to see how to calculate the starting chain so you can adjust the code to any doll. The idea is very simple. The starting chain must include the stitches for each section plus the four stitches where the regular increases will be made. Visually, it looks like this front, increase point, sleep, increase point, B, increase point, sleeve, increase point, front. To create your chain, you only need to decide how many stitches you want for each front panel, each sleeve the back. The increased points are part of the starting chain. And when we work the first row and make one single crochet, one chain, one single crochet, each increase point, that little chain in the center becomes the stitch where the increase happens. For my coat, I used 14 chains plus one turning chain. This chain has two stitches for the front, one increase point, one stitch for the sleeve, one increase point, four stitches for the back. One increased point, one stitch for the other sleeve, one increased point, and two stitches for the second front. If you want a wider chest, just add most stitches to the front panels or the back. If your doll has wider arms, add most stitches to the sleeps. My recommendation is to test it directly on the doll after the first or second row. If you see it needs a little more space, you can undo it and add one or two stitches where needed. It's a very quick and easy adjustment. In the next video, we will work on the top part of the coat. 5. Crocheting the Top Part: Et's crochet the first rows. The rows will grow automatically because all the increases we make at each increase point. I won't show how to crochet row. You can follow the written PDF pattern in the project and resources section or use your own numbers. Crouchet and try the piece on your doll until the sleeve sections and the body sections back on front reach the right with I prefer to work into the outer loops all the stitches, odd rows in the front loops, and even rows in the back loops. The sleeves must be white enough to fit the doll while she is dressed. For example, if she is wearing a sweater, her arm should go through the coat sleep without any problem. If the width of the sleeps and the body back and fronts is perfect, but you want the top part to be a bit longer, you can add one or more straight rows without increases. In the next video, I will show you how to separate the slip sections and crochet the lower part of the coat. 6. Separating Sleeves and Body: When all five sections already have some height and the yolk starts to take shape, it's time to separate the sleeves. We do this when the chest width fits your dog comfortably. The separation is very simple. We leave the slip stitches unworked and continue only with the body. In my code, for example, I skip 13 stitches for each slip, but this number may change depending on how you distributed your stitches at the beginning. That's why it's important to try it on before separating. Here's how it works. Crochet the first front section. In the last stitch of the front, make an increase. Skip all the sleep stitches. Make an increase in the first stitch of the back section, Crochet the back section. In the last stitch of the back, make an increase. Repeat the same steps for the second sleeve. Finish the second front section. By skipping those ditches, the sleeps stay on hold and the body becomes one single piece. From here, we keep croching downwards until we reach the length we want. One of the best things about this type of coat is that you can adjust it at any moment. I recommend tritone as you work. These are the three key moments to check the feet. After the first rows, when the yolk starts to curve, check if the chest is wide enough, or if you need to add one or two stitches to the front or the back right before separating the sleeves to make sure the arm area has enough space. After separating the sleeves to confirm that the body keeps the width you want. If something feels too tight, like the chest, the sleeves, or the lower body, don't worry. Just unravel a little and add one or two stitches where needed. You can add a small number of chains to make the sleeves or the coat wider. The idea is to make the coat fit your door perfectly, and these small adjustments are very quick with this kind of construction. 7. Crocheting the Body: Now it's time to decide how long you want your coat to be. You can stop early for a short jacket or keep crocheting more rows for a longer coat. If you want extra length, simply continue working the body. This is helpful because dolls usually wear the coat over other clothing like dresses. So the lower part needs a bit of extra room to fit everything comfortably inside. I recommend trying Atonia doll after a few rows, ideally with her clothes on. This will help you decide whether you need more length or if the width is already enough. When you reach your ideal length, simply fasten off. The body will be ready, and in the next part will work on the sleeves. 8. Adding the Sleeves: Now we are going to crochet the slips, which are worked from the stitches we left on hold when we separated the body. In my code, there are 13 stitches, but this number may vary depending on how you distributed your stitches at the beginning. Join the yarn in the first crestig of the arm hole. This is where the slip begins. Make one turning chain. Crochet one single crochet stitch in the first increased ditch. Then continue across all the sleep stitches. Make one single crochet stitch in the second increased stitch of the arm hole. At the end of the row, slip stitch to the chain to join. Make one turning chain. For the following rows, turn your work so the stitches stay aligned with the body. Skip the chain and the slip stitch and continue working into the outer loop of each stitch. Crouches straight across all the slip stitches without increases until you reach the desired length. If you want a bit of shaping, you can make a decrease at each end of the last odd numbered row, one decrease at the beginning, and one at the end. This makes the sleep slightly narrower at the wrist so it doesn't look too white. You can also experiment with different sleep styles by adding increases using other stitch buttons or changing colors. When the sleep reached the desired length, fast enough and with in the end, repeat the same steps for the second slip, and that's it. Now our cord has both the body and the sleeves ready. In the next part, we will crochet the hood to complete the coat. 9. Shaping the Hood: Now we are going to crochet the hood. The idea is to leave a few straight stitches on each side and work the increases evenly in the center section. In my case, I use eight stitches in the center for the increases, and I leave the remaining stitches straight, three on each side. The number of increased rows will depend on the size of your doll's head and the volume of her hair. My dolls have fairly large heads and a lot of hair, so the hood needs to be white and comfortable. Join the yarn on the right side of the first row. Make three single crochet into the first row of the quad, then increase evenly across, leaving the last three stitches straight. This creates the hoods initial curved shape for the following rows alternate between straight rows, without increases, and rows with gradual increases. This helps the hood gain enough width to fit your doll's head. Always work in the outer loop of each stitch just like the rest of the cod to keep the texture consistent. Place the hood on your doll and check the feet. It shouldn't be too tight or too loose. If needed, you can add or remove rose to adjust it perfectly. Once the hood has the desired width, crochet several straight rows until it reaches the height needed to cover your doll's head. To close the hood, alternate the crease rows with straight rows, just as we alternated increase rows earlier. When you reach the final row, fold the hood inside out and slip stitch through both sides to close it. Cut the yarn end within the ends. In the next video, I'll show you how to crochet border around the front and the hood for a neat polished finish. M 10. Edging and Finishing Touches: To give the cod a neat finish, we are going to crochet edging around the front panels and the hood. This sets structure and keeps the edges straight and tidy. Attach the yarn to the left row of the cod on the right front side. Make one chain. Work. H double crochet stitches along each row on the right front. Continue the edge around the hood using half double crochet stitches. Work all the way down to the left front panel. Crochet the edging on the left front, the same way as on the right. Have do crochet stitches until you reach the last row of the front. If you want a wider edging, add one row of slip stitches along the left row of the cod and repeat the edging. Cut the yarn, weave in all ends carefully. In the next video, I'll show you how to add some decorative details. 11. Cord and Optional Details: To close the cord at the neck like a cape, you can crochet chain cord and thread it between the neck and the hood, insert it with your hook in several spots, keeping the spaces between them roughly even. You can decorate the ends of the coat with pom-poms or tassels. Use different colors to make the coat more visually interesting. I personally love edding pom-poms. They're so cute. These details are optional. The coat already looks lovely with just the edging and the simple cord, and that's it. With the edging and the court finished, our doll's coat is complete. Body, sleeves, hood, kat edges, and a soft little cord to close it. Now your doll can wear a coat in style and comfort. 12. Wrapping Up: Hi, everyone. Congratulations on finishing your tiny hooded cod. I hope you had fun making it and learned some new techniques along the way. Let's quickly review what we've covered in this class. How to crochet the cod from the top down and adjust the width for you to, how to separate the sleeves and work the body and slips, how to shape a hood that fits perfectly, and how to crochet kat edges and at a cord. And some fun details like pom-poms or tassels. Remember, you can always adjust the size, the length, and the decorations to make the coat unique for each doll or any groomy character. Experiment with different yards and colors to create new outfits using the same idea. I'd love to see your finished coats. Share a photo in the project gallery and inspire other students. Seeing your creations helps our community grow and it's a great way to show off your creativity. If you love this class, please leave a review. It helps others find the class and join in the fun of crocheting this mini coot. Thank you for taking this class with me. I hope this tiny hooded cod brings more charming personality to your em groomy dog. Keep crocheting, enjoy experimenting and see you in the next Skillshare class. He