Bookbinding Beginners Class: Making a Japanese Binding | Ido Agassi | Skillshare
Drawer
Search

Playback Speed


  • 0.5x
  • 1x (Normal)
  • 1.25x
  • 1.5x
  • 2x

Bookbinding Beginners Class: Making a Japanese Binding

teacher avatar Ido Agassi, Book Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      2:02

    • 2.

      Tools and Materials

      2:28

    • 3.

      Preparing the Paper

      6:24

    • 4.

      Front and Back Cover

      9:54

    • 5.

      Making a Template

      3:13

    • 6.

      Inner Binding

      8:30

    • 7.

      Coffee Break

      4:15

    • 8.

      Piercing Holes For Sewing

      4:10

    • 9.

      Preparing the Thread

      1:35

    • 10.

      Sewing the Book

      4:38

    • 11.

      Conclusion

      1:08

  • --
  • Beginner level
  • Intermediate level
  • Advanced level
  • All levels

Community Generated

The level is determined by a majority opinion of students who have reviewed this class. The teacher's recommendation is shown until at least 5 student responses are collected.

116

Students

3

Projects

About This Class

In this class, I will teach you how to make a Japanese 4-hole binding, a simple binding technique very useful in our digital age as it allows you to bind single sheets of paper in different thicknesses and sizes.

I will walk you through the binding process step by step with clear explanations and detailed shots to give you a better understanding, both visually and theoretically. I will emphasize not only the how but also the why. 

What's great about the Japanese binding structure is that it can hold single sheets of paper, you just pile them up in the order you want them to be and you can start binding.

You can make this binding with a paper cover offering the simplicity of binding with simple tools and reused materials.

I will teach you my special way of binding with a silk cloth cover.

We will start by preparing the paper, and then we will make the inner binding, securing it with paper strings. We will also learn how to make a cloth cover, Pierce holes for sewing, and sew the book.

This beautiful binding technique is a great solution for so many projects from students submitting their papers to artists binding their selected works

So, if you love working with your hands and creating new things, if you always wanted to experience bookbinding, this class is a great place to start.

In this Class you will learn how to:

  • Prepare your papers to create a book block
  • How to crease the paper
  • Make a soft cloth cover
  • Make a template
  • Pierce holes for the inner binding
  • Create paper strings and bind the inner binding
  • Pierce holes for the outer binding
  • Step-by-step process of sewing the binding 

To assist you, I’ve attached PDF files in the Class Resources with a list of Tools & Materials and Templates

So are you ready?

Let's start working



Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Ido Agassi

Book Artist

Top Teacher


My Name is Ido Agassi and I am a Book Artist,

Combining the crafts of Bookbinding, Letterpress printing and Box making to create my art in the form of a book.

I have the pleasure of making books most of my life, nearly 30 years.

I invite you to join me in this wonderful journey to the world of books

Instagram YouTube

See full profile

Level: Beginner

Class Ratings

Expectations Met?
    Exceeded!
  • 0%
  • Yes
  • 0%
  • Somewhat
  • 0%
  • Not really
  • 0%

Why Join Skillshare?

Take award-winning Skillshare Original Classes

Each class has short lessons, hands-on projects

Your membership supports Skillshare teachers

Learn From Anywhere

Take classes on the go with the Skillshare app. Stream or download to watch on the plane, the subway, or wherever you learn best.

Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello, and welcome to my studio. Today, I will teach you how to make a Japanese Foehle binding, a simple binding technique that allows you to pile up single sheets of paper in different thicknesses and sizes. My name is dagasi, and I'm a book artist. I combine the craft of fletal printing, poining, and box making to create my art in the form of a book. I have the pleasure of making books and boxes most of my life more than 30 years, and I would love to share my knowledge with. In this class, I will take you step by step through the binding process with clear explanations and detailed shots to give you a better understanding both visually and theoretically, emphasizing not only on the how, but also on the why. In other words, a class I wish I could have learned from as a beginner. What's great about this Japanese binding structure is you can pile up single sheets of paper in the order you want them to be and just start binding. You can make this binding with a paper cover, offer reduced simplicity with simple tools, and also with reuse materials. I will show you my special way of binding with a silk cloth cover. We will start with preparing the inside paper and making the inner binding, connecting it with paper strings. From there, I will show you how I make the outside cover. We will pierce the holes for sewing and sew the entire This beautiful binding technique is a great solution for so many projects from students submitting their papers to artists binding their selected works. So if you love working with your hands and creating new things, if you always wanted to experience book binding, this is a great place to start. So I invite you to join me in this wonderful journey to the world of Books. So are you ready? Let's start working. 2. Tools and Materials: Hello, and thank you for joining this class. Before we begin, I would like to go through the tools and materials that we would need. Let me put a gray board on the table, so we will have a nice background. And I would start with the green cutting mat, which I really recommend you to use. Also, I want you to find a wood block, plywood, a couple of book binding boards, something that can allow us to make the holes and not damage your table or your working surface. I'll move on to the medium size ruler. A small ruler, 15 centimeters. You can manage with only one, but these are the ones I work with. Triangular er, a craft knife. I recommend with a 35 degree blade, a bone folder. You can use that regular bone folder or a tephon bone folder, pencil, T thread scissors, and needle. This is number 18 and all for making the holes. Linen thread, a piece of weight that sits flat on the table and has a 90 degree angle. We are using it as a stopper and also for sewing the book. PVA or white glue, whatever works for you. A glue brush, you can use a straight one or a rounded one, moving on to the materials. Two sheets of paper for the outside, around 200 gram. These papers are cut to the size of 23.5 or 15 centimeters. A size I feel is fitting for this binding, but you can also make this binding in a five or a half letter format. Inside paper, 30 pages, silk cloth, two pieces, 27 on 18 centimeters. A piece of paper for the template, and two paper clips. So these are all the tools and materials that we would need. I made the list of everything here. It's in our class resources, so you can find it there and download. I also made a PDF file with all the measurements converted into inches if you prefer to work in inches. So I'm eager to start working and I'll see you in the next lesson. 3. Preparing the Paper: Papers so many options of paper in this wonderful binding technique. And you can also work with single sheets of paper. That is why you can mix different kinds of paper. You can start with paper for writing or sketching, and you can go on and put dividers which are transparent. You can work with handmade cos of paper. This is a Japanese paper, and you can go like the traditional way. And you can also work with watercolor paper. This is a great advantage for this binding technique because you just pile up whatever you want and whatever you need. The only disadvantage of this binding technique that it cannot open flat on the table. What happens is you have 1.5 centimeter that we are going to sew. The 1.5 centimeter cannot be open or seamed. That is why usually when I work with this paper, let me bring a ruler and a pencil. What I do is mark 1.5 centimeter from the edge, mark with a pencil. Not to forget or to get confused. So to emphasize the matter. If I'm going to print a page on my home printer, I would make the margins on the left side about 2.5, 3 centimeters from the spine. That is because I want 1.5 centimeter that cannot be seen. And then one to 1.5 centimeters that is a reasonable margin all around the paper that we are going to print. Let's put all the technical stuff out of the way and talk about papers. You can use thin paper. This is a great option, and you can also fold a sheet of paper, so you can flip the pages on the folded side, I will show you a traditional binding, and you can see that the paper is actually double, it's folded on the fore edge side and open on the spine. So this is a great option. What you do is just you take a double sheet of paper. So if we are going to work with 15, this is 30, and then you're going to fold it in half, This would be the spine side, and this would be the feedge of the book. But what do you do when you want to work with this beautiful watercolor paper, which is thick. I think this is 300 grams. Okay? What you do is called creasing. You make a crease in the paper, allowing a better fold, but why tell you or not show you. I'll bring a, a needle, And what I'm going to do is mark 1.5 centimeter from the edge of the paper. I'm using this needle and not a pencil because the needle mark is always precise and the same. With a pencil, it can change if the pencil is sharp or not. So that's why I'm using this needle. I just connected to a piece of plastic. Now what I'm going to do is take a bone folder. I will hold the ruler between the two marks I made, hold it firmly so it won't move, and I'm going to work with the bone folder three times the index finger pushing down, and then I'm going once, twice, and third time for good luck. That may decrease. I'm not moving my fingers yet and the ruler. What I'm going to do is take my bone folder, lift the paper, bring it to the ruler. Make the fold, and then straighten the paper. I do recommend you to use the papers in your book in the right grain direction. What is the grain direction? The grain direction, every commercial paper has a grain direction. The fibers of the paper are aligning to one direction, and we want it parallel to the spine. If you want to know more about paper grain direction, you can go to my hard cover binding class. In lesson number three, I talk about paper grain direction, and I also made a YouTube video about the subject so you can go and see there. So that's how you make a crease to the paper. Sometimes I add different kind of paper in a different kind of thickness and different kind of size. I will show you, for instance, in this catalog, I attach a different kind of paper and a different size. If you want to do so, what I recommend you to do is take the paper before that. I'll bring the piece I want to add, located where you want it to be, put a piece of weight on it so it won't move. And what I do is I put two points of glue, just for it not to move. I glue it, of course, on the spine side, what is going to be sown and not to be seen. But this helps tremendously when you pile up everything and it won't move. But what I recommend you to do is not overdo it and add a lot of papers because what can happen, I made a mock up for you to see if you add too much papers, it can be uneven, as you can see, and it looks a bit weird. So go ahead, decide which kind of paper you want to use, decide on the order, make sure everything is cut into size. One more thing, I do recommend for your first binding not to be more than 1 centimeter thick, because we are going to pierce everything together, and I want your first experience to be easy. Future project, do whatever you want. B creative, make your book block, and I'll see you in the next lesson. 4. Front and Back Cover : Welcome back. After our book block is ready, it's time to make the front and back cover. I would start by saying it's completely okay and very common to make a paper binding. That means choose a nice paper, cut it to the size of the book block, and you can just skip this class. I would like to teach you how to make a cloth binding, and we are going to use this beautiful silk cloth. And for the paper, I'm going to use 218 gram sun dense paper with the fibers of the paper, the grain direction parallel to the spine. So I want to show you how to cut. This is already cut to 15. I want to cut 23.5. So what I'm going to do is take my weight and take a ruler and mark 2.20 3.5 over here. And one over here. I'll take my ruler, hold it firmly, so it won't move between these two dots. Take my knife and run once. Sometimes you need twice and move it. Don't move the ruler until you see the paper is disconnective. Now I'm going to make a crease. The creasing is to allow a better opening for our cover. I'll take the small ruler and my beloved needle. I'm going to mark 1.5 and 1.5. Let's flip it to the side. I'll put my ruler between these two dots. Hold my bone folder with the index finger, and I'm going to push down. So one, two, and three for good luck. Lift it and bring it towards the ruler. I'll move the ruler now and fold it completely. You have a nice crease here, and then straighten it up. Now we have a nice opening because this side is going to be covered with the cloth, I'll take my pencil and mark it here. So I would know this side is going on the cloth. Let me move everything aside and bring the cloth. So I'll take my piece of cloth and put it on the table. Take the paper, x going down. I want to measure more or less 1.5 centimeter all around. I want to leave just about 1 centimeter on the side with the crease. Why is that? Because when I'm going to open the book, I don't want the cloth to be twice on the outside and on the inside and actually I don't want to see it. So this side is going to be shorter around 1 centimeter as the rest all around. The reason I'm not doing it exactly is because I'm going to trim it all over afterwards. The cloth is a bit bigger than what I need. I'll take my weight and put it here. Now what I'm going to do is take my ruler and go corner to corner and mark around 3 millimeters from the edge, a line over here. Over here, and over here. I'll take my triangular ruler. See that the inner triangle is aligned with the paper, run it towards my mark and mark with a pencil. Let's go to the other side. Mark with a pencil, flip it over. Run until the mark and mark with a pencil and over here. Now I'm taking my knife and small er, and I'm going to cut all around. L et me move these aside. Now, what I'm going to do is only fold the piece that is the short one, okay? Let me take my bone folder and work on it. Now, what I'm going to do is take a piece of waste paper, put underneath. I'll take my glue and my brush. I'm not going to put a lot of glue. And like I said, we are not gluing the entire surface. We are just gluing the turnings. So I'm going to glue the piece of cloth here. Take the waste paper out, move it aside, and now with the fingers, I'm going to glue it. Make sure there's no air bubbles between the paper and the cloth. You can take the bone folder and see it's connected. Now, after finishing this stage, this is glued and I can start moving it around because it won't move. Now I'm going to do the trimming around. This ruler is 1.5 centimeter, so I can put the ruler here and just trim all around. What you can also do is just measure 1.5 and 1.5, and then cut. Let's cut this also. T. The reason I'm cutting it all around is because nothing is going to be concealed here. That is why I want to be very precise. I'm moving on to the second long side, the fore edge. Lo that I'm folding it before ging because that would make my life easier. I can see it's folded n. Now I'll take another piece of waste paper put underneath. You can put a piece of weight so it won't move. And I'm going to glue only the cloth. Not a lot of glue, but from edge to edge from corner to corner. Take the waste paper out, put it aside, and then with my fingers, glue it, L et's do the short side. I'm folding it before gluing. Take a piece of waste paper underneath. Hold glue. Only the cloth until the corners here, so it would glue properly. Take the waste paper out, fold it and glue it. Work the corners, see it looking good. And the last side, let me fold it. Take a piece of waste paper underneath. Hold the binding, Glue until the edge. Just a cloth. Take the waste paper out. First with the fingers, and then with a bone folder, make sure the corners look nice. Nice opens nicely. If it start to warp, you can put a piece of weight on it, a heavy book or something, and let it dry. I want you to do the second side by yourself. I'm sure you can do that. And if you're not sure, just rewatch this lesson, and I'll see you in the next one. 5. Making a Template: Hi. Welcome back. In this lesson, we are going to make a template for the inner and outer binding. There is a PDF file in our class resources with this template and also with a template for A five size. But I want to show you the method so you can apply it to different formats. So first of all, take a piece of thick paper, which is the length of our book and about five centimeter wide. What I'm going to do is take my two rulers and a pencil. I'm going to mark 1.4 centimeters from the edge. Y 1.4 because we made the creasing 1.5, and I don't want the holes to be exactly in the fold, but just a bit smaller. I'll make a line all across the spine. Now I'm taking the small ruler and marking 1.5 centimeter on the top and bottom side. I'll mark it here and here. Putting my ruler between those two dots, we have 20.5 centimeters. If we divide it in three, we'll get 6.8. It's 6.83, but let's do it 6.8 on this side and 6.8 on this side. So we just marked the outer binding, what we are going to s on the outside. Now I want to mark for the inner binding. What I'm going to do is take my ruler and mark a line 0.6 millimeters. Now I'm going to mark from the top side, 5 centimeters and the gap of 1 centimeter between so six. Let's do it here also, 5 centimeters, and a gap of 1 centimeter. It gives me six. We have five and 1 centimeter, five and 1 centimeter. And this is going to be our inner binding. The most important thing for you to do is not to mark the inner binding and the outer binding at the same location. Regarding the holes on the outside, you can do as many as you like. I'm going to show you the four hole binding, but you can do five, six, or whatever design you wish. You will just need to take into consideration how much of the thread you are going to measure, but I'll remind you later on. But this is the inner and outer template. You can market by yourself or download the PDF, and I'll see you in the next lesson, we are going to start with inner binding. I'll see you there. 6. Inner Binding: Hi, welcome back. The inner binding is a very important step in this binding technique because it makes the book stronger. It acts as insurance, if for whatever reason, the outer cover will disattach from the book block. And I think the most important thing is that it makes our life much easier while sewing the outside cover. So what I want you to do is find a cutting board. It could be from your kitchen. It could be a piece of wood block. You can pile up a couple of book binding boards together because what we are going to do, we are going to pierce with the ole, and we want the edge of the ole on the bottom side to go out around three to 4 millimeters to the surface, and I don't want you to damage the table or the cutting mat. So I'm going to use These wood blocks. As you can see, I'm working with them for a while, and I can add as much as I want depending on the size of the book I'm working on. I'll bring the book block, and what I want to do is make sure everything is straight. I'll take one weight and see that top is straight. Another weight to see that the forehead side is straight because the spine is towards me. It's more important for us that the forage would be straight rather than the spine because we are going to flip the pages on this side. On the spine, we are going to sew it together. That is why this is more important. As you can see, I put the weight on the book block so it won't move. I see everything is to my satisfaction straight. Let me bring the template we made and located at the edge of the book. Maybe I'll change to a smaller weight so you can see better. You can also add two paper clips if you want. One for this side, and one for this side. But I don't like that it's lifting, and that is why I prefer a piece of weight. Now what I'm going to do is take the le. When I'm holding my ole, I'm holding it in the palm of my hand, my forearm is an extension of the le, and I want 90 degree in my elbow. So I will bring the le to the first mark for the inner binding, the 6 millimeters. Now, I'm going to work on the first hole. Make sure it's 90 degrees, and then with the twisting motion, I'm going to go inside the book. Slowly and surely, look that my fingers are holding the book block for it not to move. Taking it out. I can see it's enough. Let's go to the other one, placing the all I want it 90 degrees because we are aiming to have the hole on the upper side and on the bottom side at the same location. And if I'll go with an angle, it won't do that. And also, this is a great place to practice because this is going to be concealed. Nobody will know, nobody will see, so this is a great practice for us for the outer binding. Again, I'm taking my the next hole and twisting going down, with the whole body I'm working, not just with the arm, the whole body, I'm bending my knees to go inside, and we are out. It's enough. Moving on to the next mark. We are going on the line of the 6 millimeters, the inner binding inside and outside, you can feel that it's inside the wood. You can feel that it's okay and going to the last one. Great. Now what I'm going to do is slide everything aside. The next step is to make the paper string to attach for the inner binding. What I'm going to do is bring one piece of Japanese cos of paper. This is a very strong paper, but you can also use other kinds of paper. This is ten centimeter on two centimeter wide. I'm going to make a paper string out of it. Let me take my knife and I will cut in an angle. Take the edge and just twist it to make the string. Other side. Nice, I love doing this. Let me take another one. And twist this also. Other side. So as I said, you can use different kinds of paper for this. This is very strong, and then it makes it easy to do. Let me bring the book back here. Now, I'll move the weight. Lift and move the book up until the edge, put the weight back, so nothing would move and take off the template. Don't forget that. Now, I'll take my first string and insert it inside the hole on the other side and pull it all the way. Great. Let's do the second one. I'll bring it one side. P a bit, the second side, insert it, polit a bit. I'll move the weight, flip it over. Put some glue. Take it down a bit. Now I'll take my weight and just pound it a bit. I'll trim the edges. Pound it some more. Let's see the other side. You can also rub it with a bone folder. Looks great. You can also take a piece of thread and just loop it twice and tight twice. It would work. But I must say I like this traditional way. It's more authentic, and it's beautiful. Anyway, I think this is a great place to stop and have a coffee break. I want to share with you some insights about Japanese bookbinding and also show you different options that you can experiment with in the future. So make yourself a cup of coffee or tea, and I'll see you in our coffee break. 7. Coffee Break: Welcome to our coffee break. I hope you enjoyed the class so far. I wanted to share with you some of the advantages of the Japanese binding in these modern times. Usually, when I bind a book, I use signatures, also called section. These are folded sheets of paper nested one inside or other, and that means this is page number one and two, but this is 15 and 16, and then we are nesting them all together. That involves some planning. It's called imposition. In the Japanese binding, you can bind single sheets of paper, and this is a great advantage. You can print in your home printer, home assignment, or a photo album, or whatever you want, just remember to live margins that are correct. In my son's school, they wrote a biography and they wanted to find a solution how to bind the books. What I found is a great solution. Each of the kids printed his work on A four paper. But the thickness of each book is different. What I did is I made a workshop for them, binding a Japanese binding, because it doesn't matter if the thickness is different because the size is the same. And this is a great solution for you to make a hard cover binding. You make a hinge here, and the sewing is exactly like the sewing we are going to make. I want to show you a bit how I make that. What I did for the workshop, is I brought the board with the line 1.5 centimeter from the edge. And also, I made something that I'm going to sew the book to, which is 1.5 centimeter, and a piece of cloth, which is 7 centimeters. What they did in the workshop, they put the glue up until the pencil and glue the cloth, then flip it to the other side and connect this spine here. I made them a gig two times board thickness, and they glued it like this. And if I can show you the Other stage of it, made some cuts, and then you fold short side, short side, and then long side to give you the hinge here, okay? So this is a great solution. When I made the workshop because it's 30 kids, I brought my whole puncher because all the works some of them were very, very thick and I needed to make the holes. But if you work with the hole, it would make the same holes. These are more but same idea. So this is a great solution. I want to show you another thing. You see this hard cover binding. If I'm opening it up, you can see this is actually a Japanese binding connected to a hard cover binding. I chose 135 gram paper, and the grain direction is correct, and that is why it's easy to flip the pages. But what I actually did is add end papers to the beginning end end of the book. And from the outside, it looks like a regular hard cover binding. So if you are interested in doing such a binding, what I recommend you to do is follow on the rest of this class. But when we are going to sew the outer binding, leave the covers aside and just sew the entire book block. And then go to my Skillshare class about hard cover binding. In Lesson number eight, I show how to tip in the end papers and from there, how to make the hard cover and how to connect everything together. So, as you can see, there are so many options to this Japanese binding. I love it, really. You can publish your own book from your home printer. It's amazing. So finish up your coffee or tea, and I'll see you in our next class, we're going to start sewing the book. See you there. 8. Piercing Holes For Sewing: Come back, so our book block is ready, and also our cloth cover is ready, and it's time to connect everything together. Let me bring my wood blocks and locate them here. I'll take the back cover. Make sure that the creasing we made is towards you. This is the spine of the book. Let me bring the book block itself and locate it here. I'll bring my weight for the top side, and one for the front. Now I'm going to check everything is aligned, and everything is to my satisfaction. Take your time, make sure everything is right. Now I'll take the cover. Make sure that the creasing is towards you. I'll put a piece of weight here, so it won't move for a second, and I'll bring my template. Now we are going to make the holes for the outer side, it's the 1.4 centimeter from the edge. Let me change the weight to this weight so it won't interfere with me filming. I'll move this aside also. Okay. C heck everything is as you want it to be. Now I'm taking my le in the palm of my hand. We did practice that, but I want to tell you again. The fore arm is the extension of the ul. You hold it like this in the first hole on the right side. Hold it and you press down not just with your arm, but with your whole body and just twist it a bit and go inside. I can feel it going inside. My finger nail is touching the template. So when I'm taking it out, I can see how much I got inside, and it's great. Let me move to the second mark. I'm going again, inside with all my body and pressing down. You need to make sure that the hole is 90 degrees, because we want the hole the same place on the top side and on the bottom side that we cannot see now. I'm pressing down. Hold my finger nail, Let's see. Yeah, that's about right. Let's move on to the next hole. The third one, twisting it. S it's line, see it's 90 degrees. Let me check it take it out. Now we are moving on to the fourth hole. Now, if it's very hard for you, you can use a mallet or a hammer, but you need to be very gentle with it because it can move the entire book or it can get inside in an angle because of the blowing of the hammer. So what I would do is start by making the mark, you see it's straight. Take your hammer, hold the book, and then gently take down the oil. I had many students that could not take out the oil because they gone too far inside. You don't need to do it too far. You just a couple of blows. That's it. Let me check. I'll put my fingernail, take it out. That's enough. Now, don't move the book. Okay? You can slide it away because we want to prepare the thread. We'll do that in the next lesson. I'm sliding it away without moving and I'll see you in the next lisson. 9. Preparing the Thread: Welcome back. It's time to prepare the thread. I'm going to use linen thread, which is very strong and durable, but you can also use other kinds of thread, even cotton thread because the book block is very firm, and we have the inner binding. So this is actually going to hold only the outside. So what I'm going to do is take my template and measure 3.5 times the length of the book. So one, two, 3.5, and let me cut it. Here. Now it's a time to remind you if you added more holes or if the book is very thick, then add some extra thread just in case, let me move this aside, and now I want to show you a trick. If you saw my previous classes, I'm sure you saw this trick, but this is a great reminder. What I'm going to do is take my needle and thread, and I'm going to put the thread into the eye of the needle. Now, what I'm going to do is take around 3 centimeters from the edge, take the needle and insert the point of the needle inside the thread. Now I'm holding the needle and I'm pulling down the thread. That's it. Look, the thread is connected without a knot interfering without sewing. That's it for this lesson. I'm eager to start sewing. I'll see you in the next lesson. 10. Sewing the Book: Welcome back. How you ready? Let the sewing begin. I'll move the book so it would hover and it would be much easier to go down and up while sewing. I'll take my needle and a thread and start in the second hole from the bottom up. Take the thread out. And leave a tail of around 5 centimeters. Now what I'm going to do is do the same procedure again, go from the bottom up. Make sure not to go with the needle inside the thread. Now when I'm pulling, look, I'm holding the tail, and when I'm pulling the thread, I'm actually looping it around the beginning and I can pull it, and that's it it connected, and you can pull all the way and it won't get loose. This is a nice trick. Moving on to the third hole, from the top down to the bottom. Pulling the thread, going around the spine and inside the same hole. Pull it. Now the thread is down here. I'm going left and inserting from the bottom up towards the top. Let me pull the thread, going again around the spine and back into the same hole. I'll pull the thread, make sure it's tight. Now I'm going around the head of the book and going again in the same hole. The thread is going three times in each hole pulling it. Now I need to add thread where it's missing. I'm on the top side, I'm going through the third hole from top to bottom. Pulling, going through the second hole where we started. Make sure not to go with the needle inside the thread, and I got to the first hole. What I want to show you is sometimes you can find the piercing right, so you can take your hole and just put it inside and feel the tip of it and it would help straighten everything, and then it would be much easier to sew. So I'm in the last or the first hole. I'm going inside from top to bottom, around the spine. Back to the same hole. Now I'm on the foot of the book going around to close this side, going down. Now I'm stopping for a second because that's where people get confused. I'm not going again to the second hole. I'm just leaving it like this. I'll move the weight aside, flip over the binding, and now I can release the beginning, and all I have left to do is tie a double knot here. But because I don't want the knot to slide away, what I'm going to do is give it an anchor, and I'm going underneath the beginning, and this would make an anchor. When I'm doing the knot, it cannot move and it stays in the place. I'll make a double nut, a simple not once and twice. I'll take my scissors and cut it around 1 centimeter from the edge. Now you can take your hole and just insert the beginning inside the hole. Takes a bit of time. You just hold the thread and push it down inside the book block, and everything is concealed. It's like magic. Look how amazing we finished our book. Let me clear out everything here and see you in our final lesson. I want to talk about different sewing patterns that are more advanced and also give you some closing remarks, so I'll see you in our final lesson. 11. Conclusion: Welcome to our final lesson. I'm so proud of you, and I would love to see the end result of your binding, so please share it with us in the class projects. I promise to see each and every work submitted and give feedback. If you have any question, you can write it in the class discussion, and I will promise to answer to the best of my ability. If you are interested in more advanced sewing patterns, what I suggest you do, let me show you these beautiful sewing patterns, after you know how to do the basic, you can do this easily. On my YouTube channel, I will share the process and patterns of sewing these books. So you are welcome to watch and to subscribe to my channel. You are also welcome to follow me here on Skillshare and on Instagram, and then when a new class will be published, you will be notified. One more thing, I would really appreciate it if you can write a review. It's very easy to do, and it helps tremendously. So thank you for being here and for watching, and I will see you in my next class.