Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hello, and welcome to my studio. Today, I will teach
you how to make a Japanese Foehle binding, a simple binding technique
that allows you to pile up single sheets of paper in different thicknesses and sizes. My name is dagasi, and I'm a book artist. I combine the craft
of fletal printing, poining, and box making to create my art in
the form of a book. I have the pleasure
of making books and boxes most of my life
more than 30 years, and I would love to
share my knowledge with. In this class, I
will take you step by step through the
binding process with clear explanations and
detailed shots to give you a better understanding both
visually and theoretically, emphasizing not only on the how, but also on the why. In other words, a class I wish I could have learned
from as a beginner. What's great about this Japanese binding structure
is you can pile up single sheets of paper
in the order you want them to be and
just start binding. You can make this binding
with a paper cover, offer reduced simplicity
with simple tools, and also with reuse materials. I will show you
my special way of binding with a silk cloth cover. We will start with preparing the inside paper and
making the inner binding, connecting it with
paper strings. From there, I will show you
how I make the outside cover. We will pierce the holes
for sewing and sew the entire This beautiful
binding technique is a great solution for so
many projects from students submitting their papers to artists binding their
selected works. So if you love working with your hands and
creating new things, if you always wanted to
experience book binding, this is a great place to start. So I invite you to join me in this wonderful journey
to the world of Books. So are you ready?
Let's start working.
2. Tools and Materials: Hello, and thank you
for joining this class. Before we begin, I
would like to go through the tools and
materials that we would need. Let me put a gray
board on the table, so we will have a
nice background. And I would start with
the green cutting mat, which I really
recommend you to use. Also, I want you to
find a wood block, plywood, a couple of
book binding boards, something that can allow
us to make the holes and not damage your table
or your working surface. I'll move on to the
medium size ruler. A small ruler, 15 centimeters. You can manage with only one, but these are the
ones I work with. Triangular er, a craft knife. I recommend with a 35 degree
blade, a bone folder. You can use that
regular bone folder or a tephon bone folder, pencil, T thread
scissors, and needle. This is number 18 and all
for making the holes. Linen thread, a piece of weight that sits flat on the table and has
a 90 degree angle. We are using it as a stopper and also
for sewing the book. PVA or white glue, whatever works for you. A glue brush, you can use a straight one or a rounded one, moving on to the materials. Two sheets of paper for the
outside, around 200 gram. These papers are
cut to the size of 23.5 or 15 centimeters. A size I feel is fitting
for this binding, but you can also make this binding in a five
or a half letter format. Inside paper, 30 pages, silk cloth, two pieces, 27 on 18 centimeters. A piece of paper
for the template, and two paper clips. So these are all the tools and materials that
we would need. I made the list of
everything here. It's in our class resources, so you can find it
there and download. I also made a PDF file
with all the measurements converted into inches if you
prefer to work in inches. So I'm eager to start working and I'll see
you in the next lesson.
3. Preparing the Paper: Papers so many options of paper in this wonderful
binding technique. And you can also work with
single sheets of paper. That is why you can mix
different kinds of paper. You can start with paper
for writing or sketching, and you can go on and put
dividers which are transparent. You can work with
handmade cos of paper. This is a Japanese paper, and you can go like
the traditional way. And you can also work
with watercolor paper. This is a great advantage
for this binding technique because you just pile up whatever you want and
whatever you need. The only disadvantage of this binding technique that it cannot open flat on the table. What happens is you have 1.5 centimeter that
we are going to sew. The 1.5 centimeter cannot
be open or seamed. That is why usually when
I work with this paper, let me bring a
ruler and a pencil. What I do is mark 1.5 centimeter from the edge,
mark with a pencil. Not to forget or
to get confused. So to emphasize the matter. If I'm going to print a
page on my home printer, I would make the margins on
the left side about 2.5, 3 centimeters from the spine. That is because I want 1.5 centimeter that
cannot be seen. And then one to 1.5
centimeters that is a reasonable margin all around the paper that
we are going to print. Let's put all the
technical stuff out of the way and
talk about papers. You can use thin paper. This is a great option, and you can also fold
a sheet of paper, so you can flip the pages
on the folded side, I will show you a
traditional binding, and you can see that the
paper is actually double, it's folded on the fore edge
side and open on the spine. So this is a great option. What you do is just you take
a double sheet of paper. So if we are going to
work with 15, this is 30, and then you're going
to fold it in half, This would be the spine side, and this would be the
feedge of the book. But what do you do when
you want to work with this beautiful watercolor
paper, which is thick. I think this is 300 grams. Okay? What you do
is called creasing. You make a crease in the paper, allowing a better fold, but why tell you
or not show you. I'll bring a, a needle, And what I'm going
to do is mark 1.5 centimeter from the
edge of the paper. I'm using this needle
and not a pencil because the needle mark is always
precise and the same. With a pencil, it can change if the pencil
is sharp or not. So that's why I'm
using this needle. I just connected to
a piece of plastic. Now what I'm going to do
is take a bone folder. I will hold the ruler between
the two marks I made, hold it firmly so it won't move, and I'm going to work with
the bone folder three times the index
finger pushing down, and then I'm going once, twice, and third
time for good luck. That may decrease. I'm not moving my fingers
yet and the ruler. What I'm going to do is
take my bone folder, lift the paper, bring
it to the ruler. Make the fold, and then
straighten the paper. I do recommend you to use the papers in your book in
the right grain direction. What is the grain direction? The grain direction,
every commercial paper has a grain direction. The fibers of the paper are
aligning to one direction, and we want it
parallel to the spine. If you want to know more
about paper grain direction, you can go to my hard
cover binding class. In lesson number three, I talk about paper
grain direction, and I also made a YouTube video about the subject so you
can go and see there. So that's how you make
a crease to the paper. Sometimes I add different
kind of paper in a different kind of thickness
and different kind of size. I will show you, for
instance, in this catalog, I attach a different kind of
paper and a different size. If you want to do so, what I recommend you to do is
take the paper before that. I'll bring the piece
I want to add, located where you want it to be, put a piece of weight
on it so it won't move. And what I do is I put
two points of glue, just for it not to move. I glue it, of course, on the spine side, what is going to be sown
and not to be seen. But this helps tremendously when you pile up everything
and it won't move. But what I recommend
you to do is not overdo it and add a lot of papers
because what can happen, I made a mock up for you to see if you add too much papers, it can be uneven, as you can see, and
it looks a bit weird. So go ahead, decide which kind
of paper you want to use, decide on the order, make sure everything
is cut into size. One more thing, I do
recommend for your first binding not to be more
than 1 centimeter thick, because we are going to
pierce everything together, and I want your first
experience to be easy. Future project, do
whatever you want. B creative, make
your book block, and I'll see you in
the next lesson.
4. Front and Back Cover : Welcome back. After our
book block is ready, it's time to make the
front and back cover. I would start by saying
it's completely okay and very common to make
a paper binding. That means choose a nice paper, cut it to the size
of the book block, and you can just
skip this class. I would like to teach you
how to make a cloth binding, and we are going to use
this beautiful silk cloth. And for the paper,
I'm going to use 218 gram sun dense paper with
the fibers of the paper, the grain direction
parallel to the spine. So I want to show
you how to cut. This is already cut to 15. I want to cut 23.5. So what I'm going to do is
take my weight and take a ruler and mark
2.20 3.5 over here. And one over here. I'll take my ruler,
hold it firmly, so it won't move
between these two dots. Take my knife and run once. Sometimes you need
twice and move it. Don't move the ruler until you see the paper is disconnective. Now I'm going to make a crease. The creasing is to allow a
better opening for our cover. I'll take the small ruler
and my beloved needle. I'm going to mark 1.5 and 1.5. Let's flip it to the side. I'll put my ruler
between these two dots. Hold my bone folder
with the index finger, and I'm going to push down. So one, two, and
three for good luck. Lift it and bring it
towards the ruler. I'll move the ruler now
and fold it completely. You have a nice crease here, and then straighten it up. Now we have a nice opening because this side is going to
be covered with the cloth, I'll take my pencil
and mark it here. So I would know this side
is going on the cloth. Let me move everything
aside and bring the cloth. So I'll take my piece of cloth
and put it on the table. Take the paper, x going down. I want to measure more or less
1.5 centimeter all around. I want to leave just
about 1 centimeter on the side with the
crease. Why is that? Because when I'm going
to open the book, I don't want the
cloth to be twice on the outside and on the inside and actually
I don't want to see it. So this side is going to be shorter around 1 centimeter
as the rest all around. The reason I'm not doing it exactly is because I'm going to trim it all over afterwards. The cloth is a bit
bigger than what I need. I'll take my weight
and put it here. Now what I'm going to do is take my ruler and go corner to corner and mark around 3
millimeters from the edge, a line over here. Over here, and over here. I'll take my triangular ruler. See that the inner triangle
is aligned with the paper, run it towards my mark
and mark with a pencil. Let's go to the other side. Mark with a pencil,
flip it over. Run until the mark and mark
with a pencil and over here. Now I'm taking my
knife and small er, and I'm going to cut all around. L et me move these aside. Now, what I'm going
to do is only fold the piece that is
the short one, okay? Let me take my bone
folder and work on it. Now, what I'm going
to do is take a piece of waste
paper, put underneath. I'll take my glue and my brush. I'm not going to
put a lot of glue. And like I said, we are not gluing
the entire surface. We are just gluing the turnings. So I'm going to glue the
piece of cloth here. Take the waste paper out, move it aside, and
now with the fingers, I'm going to glue it. Make sure there's no air bubbles between the paper and the cloth. You can take the bone folder
and see it's connected. Now, after finishing this stage, this is glued and I can start moving it around
because it won't move. Now I'm going to do
the trimming around. This ruler is 1.5 centimeter, so I can put the ruler here
and just trim all around. What you can also do is
just measure 1.5 and 1.5, and then cut. Let's cut this also. T. The reason I'm cutting it all around is because nothing is going
to be concealed here. That is why I want
to be very precise. I'm moving on to the second
long side, the fore edge. Lo that I'm folding it before ging because that would
make my life easier. I can see it's folded n. Now I'll take another piece of waste paper put underneath. You can put a piece of
weight so it won't move. And I'm going to
glue only the cloth. Not a lot of glue, but from edge to edge from
corner to corner. Take the waste paper out, put it aside, and then
with my fingers, glue it, L et's do the short side. I'm folding it before gluing. Take a piece of waste
paper underneath. Hold glue. Only the cloth until
the corners here, so it would glue properly. Take the waste paper out, fold it and glue it. Work the corners,
see it looking good. And the last side,
let me fold it. Take a piece of waste
paper underneath. Hold the binding,
Glue until the edge. Just a cloth. Take
the waste paper out. First with the fingers, and then with a bone folder, make sure the corners look nice. Nice opens nicely. If it start to warp, you can
put a piece of weight on it, a heavy book or something,
and let it dry. I want you to do the
second side by yourself. I'm sure you can do that. And if you're not sure,
just rewatch this lesson, and I'll see you
in the next one.
5. Making a Template: Hi. Welcome back.
In this lesson, we are going to
make a template for the inner and outer binding. There is a PDF file in
our class resources with this template and also with
a template for A five size. But I want to show
you the method so you can apply it
to different formats. So first of all, take a
piece of thick paper, which is the length of our book and about
five centimeter wide. What I'm going to do is take
my two rulers and a pencil. I'm going to mark 1.4
centimeters from the edge. Y 1.4 because we made
the creasing 1.5, and I don't want the holes
to be exactly in the fold, but just a bit smaller. I'll make a line all
across the spine. Now I'm taking the
small ruler and marking 1.5 centimeter on the
top and bottom side. I'll mark it here and here. Putting my ruler
between those two dots, we have 20.5 centimeters. If we divide it in
three, we'll get 6.8. It's 6.83, but
let's do it 6.8 on this side and 6.8 on this side. So we just marked
the outer binding, what we are going to
s on the outside. Now I want to mark for
the inner binding. What I'm going to do
is take my ruler and mark a line 0.6 millimeters. Now I'm going to mark
from the top side, 5 centimeters and the gap of
1 centimeter between so six. Let's do it here also, 5 centimeters, and a
gap of 1 centimeter. It gives me six. We have
five and 1 centimeter, five and 1 centimeter. And this is going to
be our inner binding. The most important thing for
you to do is not to mark the inner binding and the outer binding at the same location. Regarding the holes
on the outside, you can do as many as you like. I'm going to show you
the four hole binding, but you can do five, six, or whatever design you wish. You will just need to
take into consideration how much of the thread
you are going to measure, but I'll remind you later on. But this is the inner
and outer template. You can market by yourself
or download the PDF, and I'll see you in
the next lesson, we are going to start with inner binding. I'll
see you there.
6. Inner Binding: Hi, welcome back.
The inner binding is a very important step in this binding technique because it makes the book stronger. It acts as insurance, if for whatever reason, the outer cover will disattach
from the book block. And I think the most important
thing is that it makes our life much easier while
sewing the outside cover. So what I want you to do
is find a cutting board. It could be from your kitchen. It could be a piece
of wood block. You can pile up a couple of book binding boards together because what we are going to do, we are going to
pierce with the ole, and we want the edge of the
ole on the bottom side to go out around three to 4
millimeters to the surface, and I don't want you to damage the table or the cutting mat. So I'm going to use
These wood blocks. As you can see, I'm working
with them for a while, and I can add as much as I want depending on the size
of the book I'm working on. I'll bring the book block, and what I want to do is make sure everything
is straight. I'll take one weight and
see that top is straight. Another weight to see that the forehead side is straight because the
spine is towards me. It's more important for us that the forage
would be straight rather than the
spine because we are going to flip the
pages on this side. On the spine, we are
going to sew it together. That is why this
is more important. As you can see, I put the weight on the book
block so it won't move. I see everything is to my
satisfaction straight. Let me bring the
template we made and located at the
edge of the book. Maybe I'll change to a smaller weight so
you can see better. You can also add two
paper clips if you want. One for this side, and
one for this side. But I don't like
that it's lifting, and that is why I prefer
a piece of weight. Now what I'm going to
do is take the le. When I'm holding my ole, I'm holding it in
the palm of my hand, my forearm is an
extension of the le, and I want 90
degree in my elbow. So I will bring the le to the first mark for the inner
binding, the 6 millimeters. Now, I'm going to work
on the first hole. Make sure it's 90 degrees, and then with the
twisting motion, I'm going to go inside the book. Slowly and surely, look
that my fingers are holding the book block
for it not to move. Taking it out. I can
see it's enough. Let's go to the other one, placing the all I want it
90 degrees because we are aiming to have the hole on the upper side and on the bottom side at
the same location. And if I'll go with an
angle, it won't do that. And also, this is
a great place to practice because this is
going to be concealed. Nobody will know,
nobody will see, so this is a great practice
for us for the outer binding. Again, I'm taking
my the next hole and twisting going down, with the whole body I'm working, not just with the
arm, the whole body, I'm bending my knees to go
inside, and we are out. It's enough. Moving
on to the next mark. We are going on the line
of the 6 millimeters, the inner binding
inside and outside, you can feel that
it's inside the wood. You can feel that it's okay
and going to the last one. Great. Now what I'm going to do is slide everything aside. The next step is to make the paper string to attach
for the inner binding. What I'm going to do is bring one piece of Japanese
cos of paper. This is a very strong paper, but you can also use
other kinds of paper. This is ten centimeter
on two centimeter wide. I'm going to make a
paper string out of it. Let me take my knife and
I will cut in an angle. Take the edge and just twist it to make the
string. Other side. Nice, I love doing this. Let me take another one. And twist this also. Other side. So as I said, you can use different kinds of
paper for this. This is very strong, and
then it makes it easy to do. Let me bring the book back here. Now, I'll move the weight. Lift and move the book
up until the edge, put the weight back,
so nothing would move and take off the template. Don't forget that. Now, I'll take my first string and insert it inside the hole on the other side and
pull it all the way. Great. Let's do the second one. I'll bring it one side. P a bit, the second side, insert it, polit a bit. I'll move the weight,
flip it over. Put some glue. Take it down a bit. Now I'll take my weight
and just pound it a bit. I'll trim the edges. Pound it some more. Let's
see the other side. You can also rub it with a
bone folder. Looks great. You can also take
a piece of thread and just loop it twice
and tight twice. It would work. But I must say I like this traditional way. It's more authentic,
and it's beautiful. Anyway, I think this is a great place to stop
and have a coffee break. I want to share with
you some insights about Japanese bookbinding and also show you different options that you can experiment with in the future. So make yourself a
cup of coffee or tea, and I'll see you in
our coffee break.
7. Coffee Break: Welcome to our coffee break. I hope you enjoyed
the class so far. I wanted to share with you
some of the advantages of the Japanese binding
in these modern times. Usually, when I bind a book, I use signatures,
also called section. These are folded sheets of paper nested one
inside or other, and that means this is
page number one and two, but this is 15 and 16, and then we are nesting
them all together. That involves some planning. It's called imposition. In the Japanese binding, you can bind single
sheets of paper, and this is a great advantage. You can print in your home
printer, home assignment, or a photo album, or whatever you want, just remember to live
margins that are correct. In my son's school, they wrote a biography and they wanted to find a solution
how to bind the books. What I found is a
great solution. Each of the kids printed
his work on A four paper. But the thickness of
each book is different. What I did is I made
a workshop for them, binding a Japanese binding, because it doesn't
matter if the thickness is different because
the size is the same. And this is a great solution for you to make a hard
cover binding. You make a hinge here, and the sewing is exactly like the sewing we
are going to make. I want to show you a
bit how I make that. What I did for the workshop, is I brought the board with the line 1.5 centimeter
from the edge. And also, I made something that I'm going to
sew the book to, which is 1.5 centimeter, and a piece of cloth, which is 7 centimeters. What they did in the workshop, they put the glue up until the
pencil and glue the cloth, then flip it to the other side and
connect this spine here. I made them a gig two
times board thickness, and they glued it like this. And if I can show you the Other stage of
it, made some cuts, and then you fold short
side, short side, and then long side to give
you the hinge here, okay? So this is a great solution. When I made the workshop
because it's 30 kids, I brought my whole puncher because all the works
some of them were very, very thick and I needed
to make the holes. But if you work with the hole, it would make the same holes. These are more but same idea. So this is a great solution. I want to show you
another thing. You see this hard cover binding. If I'm opening it up, you can see this is actually a Japanese binding connected
to a hard cover binding. I chose 135 gram paper, and the grain
direction is correct, and that is why it's
easy to flip the pages. But what I actually did is add end papers to the beginning
end end of the book. And from the outside, it looks like a regular hard
cover binding. So if you are interested
in doing such a binding, what I recommend you to do is follow on the rest
of this class. But when we are going to
sew the outer binding, leave the covers aside and just sew the entire book block. And then go to my
Skillshare class about hard cover binding. In Lesson number eight, I show how to tip in the
end papers and from there, how to make the hard cover and how to connect
everything together. So, as you can see, there are so many options to
this Japanese binding. I love it, really. You can publish your own book
from your home printer. It's amazing. So finish
up your coffee or tea, and I'll see you
in our next class, we're going to start sewing
the book. See you there.
8. Piercing Holes For Sewing: Come back, so our
book block is ready, and also our cloth
cover is ready, and it's time to connect
everything together. Let me bring my wood blocks
and locate them here. I'll take the back cover. Make sure that the creasing
we made is towards you. This is the spine of the book. Let me bring the book block
itself and locate it here. I'll bring my weight
for the top side, and one for the front. Now I'm going to check
everything is aligned, and everything is
to my satisfaction. Take your time, make sure
everything is right. Now I'll take the cover. Make sure that the
creasing is towards you. I'll put a piece of weight here, so it won't move for a second, and I'll bring my template. Now we are going to make the
holes for the outer side, it's the 1.4 centimeter
from the edge. Let me change the
weight to this weight so it won't interfere
with me filming. I'll move this aside also. Okay. C heck everything
is as you want it to be. Now I'm taking my le in
the palm of my hand. We did practice that, but I want to tell you again. The fore arm is the
extension of the ul. You hold it like this in the first hole on
the right side. Hold it and you press down
not just with your arm, but with your whole body and just twist it a
bit and go inside. I can feel it going inside. My finger nail is
touching the template. So when I'm taking it out, I can see how much I got
inside, and it's great. Let me move to the second mark. I'm going again, inside with all my body and pressing down. You need to make sure that
the hole is 90 degrees, because we want the
hole the same place on the top side and on the bottom side that
we cannot see now. I'm pressing down. Hold my
finger nail, Let's see. Yeah, that's about right. Let's move on to the next hole. The third one, twisting it. S it's line, see
it's 90 degrees. Let me check it take it out. Now we are moving on
to the fourth hole. Now, if it's very hard for you, you can use a
mallet or a hammer, but you need to be very gentle with it
because it can move the entire book or it can get inside in an angle because of
the blowing of the hammer. So what I would do is
start by making the mark, you see it's straight. Take your hammer, hold the book, and then gently
take down the oil. I had many students
that could not take out the oil because they
gone too far inside. You don't need to do it too far. You just a couple of blows. That's it. Let me check. I'll put my fingernail, take it out. That's enough. Now, don't move the book. Okay? You can slide it away because we want
to prepare the thread. We'll do that in
the next lesson. I'm sliding it away without moving and I'll see you
in the next lisson.
9. Preparing the Thread: Welcome back. It's time
to prepare the thread. I'm going to use linen thread, which is very
strong and durable, but you can also use
other kinds of thread, even cotton thread because
the book block is very firm, and we have the inner binding. So this is actually going
to hold only the outside. So what I'm going to
do is take my template and measure 3.5 times
the length of the book. So one, two, 3.5,
and let me cut it. Here. Now it's a time
to remind you if you added more holes or if
the book is very thick, then add some extra
thread just in case, let me move this aside, and now I want to
show you a trick. If you saw my previous classes, I'm sure you saw this trick, but this is a great reminder. What I'm going to do is
take my needle and thread, and I'm going to put the thread into the eye of the needle. Now, what I'm going to do is take around 3 centimeters
from the edge, take the needle and insert the point of the needle
inside the thread. Now I'm holding the
needle and I'm pulling down the thread. That's it. Look, the thread is connected without a knot interfering
without sewing. That's it for this lesson. I'm eager to start sewing. I'll see you in the next lesson.
10. Sewing the Book: Welcome back. How you ready? Let the sewing begin. I'll move the book so
it would hover and it would be much easier to
go down and up while sewing. I'll take my needle and
a thread and start in the second hole from the bottom
up. Take the thread out. And leave a tail of
around 5 centimeters. Now what I'm going to do is
do the same procedure again, go from the bottom up. Make sure not to go with the
needle inside the thread. Now when I'm pulling, look, I'm holding the tail, and when I'm pulling the thread, I'm actually looping it around the beginning and I can pull it, and that's it it connected, and you can pull all the
way and it won't get loose. This is a nice trick. Moving
on to the third hole, from the top down to the bottom. Pulling the thread, going around the spine and inside
the same hole. Pull it. Now the
thread is down here. I'm going left and
inserting from the bottom up towards the top. Let me pull the thread, going again around the spine
and back into the same hole. I'll pull the thread,
make sure it's tight. Now I'm going around the head of the book and going
again in the same hole. The thread is going three
times in each hole pulling it. Now I need to add thread
where it's missing. I'm on the top side, I'm going through the third
hole from top to bottom. Pulling, going through the
second hole where we started. Make sure not to go with the
needle inside the thread, and I got to the first hole. What I want to show
you is sometimes you can find the piercing right, so you can take your
hole and just put it inside and feel the tip of it and it would help
straighten everything, and then it would be
much easier to sew. So I'm in the last
or the first hole. I'm going inside from top to
bottom, around the spine. Back to the same hole. Now I'm on the foot
of the book going around to close this
side, going down. Now I'm stopping for a second because that's where
people get confused. I'm not going again
to the second hole. I'm just leaving it like this. I'll move the weight aside, flip over the binding, and now I can release
the beginning, and all I have left to do
is tie a double knot here. But because I don't want
the knot to slide away, what I'm going to do
is give it an anchor, and I'm going underneath
the beginning, and this would make an anchor. When I'm doing the knot, it cannot move and it
stays in the place. I'll make a double nut, a simple not once and twice. I'll take my scissors and cut it around 1 centimeter
from the edge. Now you can take
your hole and just insert the beginning
inside the hole. Takes a bit of
time. You just hold the thread and push it down
inside the book block, and everything is concealed. It's like magic. Look how
amazing we finished our book. Let me clear out everything here and see you in our final lesson. I want to talk about
different sewing patterns that are more advanced and also give you some
closing remarks, so I'll see you in
our final lesson.
11. Conclusion: Welcome to our final lesson. I'm so proud of you, and I would love to see the
end result of your binding, so please share it with
us in the class projects. I promise to see each and every work submitted
and give feedback. If you have any question, you can write it in
the class discussion, and I will promise to answer
to the best of my ability. If you are interested in more
advanced sewing patterns, what I suggest you do, let me show you these
beautiful sewing patterns, after you know how
to do the basic, you can do this easily. On my YouTube channel, I will share the process and patterns of
sewing these books. So you are welcome to watch and to subscribe
to my channel. You are also welcome
to follow me here on Skillshare
and on Instagram, and then when a new class will be published,
you will be notified. One more thing, I would really appreciate it if you
can write a review. It's very easy to do, and it helps tremendously. So thank you for being
here and for watching, and I will see you
in my next class.