Beginners Drawing Challenge: A Hat with No Texture | China Jordan | Skillshare

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Beginners Drawing Challenge: A Hat with No Texture

teacher avatar China Jordan, Art Teacher

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      1:16

    • 2.

      Stage 1 - The Outline

      3:57

    • 3.

      Stage 2 - Shadow outline and base layer

      4:40

    • 4.

      Stage 3 - Gradients

      4:27

    • 5.

      Stage 4 - Gradients Cont

      5:22

    • 6.

      Stage 5 - The Brim

      5:57

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About This Class

Beginner’s Drawing Guide: How to Draw a Realistic Hat in PencilClass Overview

Want to improve your pencil drawing skills and finally understand how to make drawings look realistic rather than flat? In this beginner-friendly class, you’ll learn how to draw a realistic hat in pencil, step by step, using simple techniques that build confidence as you go.

Across five guided lessons, we’ll break the drawing down into manageable stages — from clean outlines to believable shading — so you can clearly see how realism is built, one layer at a time.

What You Will Learn

By the end of this class, you’ll be able to:

  • Create a strong and accurate outline for a realistic object

  • Understand how to observe and draw shadows

  • Use block shading to establish depth and form

  • Blend pencil marks smoothly for a soft, realistic finish

  • Draw and shade the brim of a hat so it looks curved and three-dimensional

  • Apply these same techniques to other realistic pencil drawings


Why You Should Take This Class

Learning to draw realistically can feel overwhelming — but it doesn’t have to be. This class shows you exactly how realism is built, without rushing or skipping steps.

You’ll learn how light, shadow, and form work together, giving you skills you can reuse in portraits, still life, and everyday sketching. Whether you’re returning to drawing after a break or picking up a pencil for the first time, this class will help you slow down, observe more carefully, and draw with confidence.

I’ll guide you through the process in a clear, supportive way, sharing practical tips I’ve learned from years of teaching beginners how to draw.

Who This Class Is For

This class is perfect for:

  • Beginners who want to learn realistic pencil drawing

  • Artists who feel unsure about shading and shadows

  • Anyone returning to drawing after time away

  • Hobbyists who want a calm, structured drawing project

No prior drawing experience is needed — just a willingness to practice and take it step by step.

Materials & Resources

To follow along, you’ll need:

  • Pencil (HB, 2B, or similar)
  • Paper or sketchbook
  • Eraser
  • Pencil sharpener

    That’s it — no fancy materials required. The focus is on learning how to see and shade, not on expensive tools.

Meet Your Teacher

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China Jordan

Art Teacher

Teacher
Level: Intermediate

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hello. Welcome to Artisan. My name is China. And today, I'm going to show you how to draw this realistic hat. Now, this is something everyone can achieve. All you have to do is watch carefully, pause and rewind if and when you need, and you'll be able to draw this, too. Today, you're going to need your two B pencil and your eight B pencil, your paper, a rubber, and hopefully that's everything you'll need. Now, this drawing did take me about an hour so make sure you have enough time to slow it down, really be careful with the lines, the shading, and most importantly, the blending. That's what's really going to make this hat look three D. You will notice in this video that I don't focus on the detail. I'm not too worried about getting every single piece of knit, but I am interested in getting the texture and the shape of the brim of the hat. The rest of it, I just want to focus on the form and the lovely shading underneath that really, really fine detail. And as you can see, it's still realistic. If you do want some extra lessons on shading and how to do the gradients and get a really smooth texture, feel free to check out any of my other courses. So, grab your pencils and let's get started. 2. Stage 1 - The Outline: Let's look at the foundations of the hat. First, I'm just going to get a different pen so I can show you exactly what I look at when I look at something like this. So first of all, I'm looking at the orientation. So if I think about roughly the middle line, I can see that it is going at an angle rather than going straight up or straight down. So find the middle of the hat, and then think about what direction that is going. And grab your pencil. You can do a little rehearsal. It's like an air rehearsal. Go onto your paper. And then let's try and get that same angle. So I'll make it a little darker. There we go. And then I can check my angle, see whether it's the same. Pretty much. So I think that will do. Next, I'm looking for the width of it. So if I just draw a line that goes across here. I've added a slight bend, just kind of represent that motion of the opening, the opening of the hat. And then I want to try and do the same on here. So first of all, make sure I have enough space. Slight bend. And let's look at that width. So it's probably a tiny bit too long. I'll just shorten it ever so slightly. And it probably can go a little bit taller. Now, once I got to this stage, I can start to see whether my hat is too close to the top or too low to the bottom. So my piece of paper, I probably could go a little bit lower. So I'm just gonna do parallel line. Down here, it means it's quite easy to change. I'll extend that middle line down, and then I'll just rub this out. There we go. And now it looks like this is far too long, so that's good because then I can move this lower, and the spacing is much, much better. So let's try and go for an egg shape. So I just want to attach this just to start seeing what it's like, and I can amend the shape, but I can also use this center line as a way to compare my left and my right side because symmetry is very challenging. Let's go ahead and maybe add the fold so we can look at the height of the fold. Is it enough? Is it too much? Does it need to be actually a little bit bigger Because we want to see this overlap over here where we have the hat going up and then the fold going over it. Okay. So I can tell from the top, it's a little bit too pointy, so let's just carve off the top. Maybe a small trim over here. So spend a few minutes just refining your shape, and then we'll start the shading in just a second. And then, of course, don't forget right at the bottom. We're just going to add another line for the opening of the hat, and that's just going to tuck up inside here on the edge, but then it's not attached, so make sure you don't have a line going all the way through. And that'll keep the hat nice and open for you. And then finally, before we move on to the shapes of the shadows, we're just going to remove the middle. There we go. There we have our outline. 3. Stage 2 - Shadow outline and base layer: So now the drawing isn't over. Before we start shading, we want to make sure we're at the best place possible. So this time, we're going to have a look at the dark bits, the shadows, the shadows that are being cast from the ridges. I'm going to outline the dark tones, and you'll just see these dark tones. They're pretty much just one tone within my little section. We also have one that goes around here. We've got a bit of a tone there, and then inside, this little part of the hat, as well. We have a dark tone in the hip. So what we're doing is setting ourselves up to say, Okay, this is in light, this is in shadow. Once we can separate the two, it makes things a lot easier for us. So let's go back to where these folds are coming out of. So first of all, we do have a little curve going down there. So I'm going to add gentle little coming down here. Then we've got another one which has a shadow on it. So let's try and pop this on. It's it's quite a long one, but just make sure it's not more than what is this. If this is halfway down, it doesn't go beyond halfway, so don't make that one too big. The next one, I'm looking at the distance between the first shadow and the second one. So first of all, I'll make sure I get that. Then looking to make sure that shadow is long enough. Connect that one. Well, let's get this one here. So this gap becomes bigger. As we go down, it's smaller at the top, bigger at the bottom, but not too big. And then when I look at this, it's smaller here, wider here and smaller again there, so it's a bit like a boomerang, this shape. I we go. And then just the edge, we have a little shadow along there, followed by down here, and then under the opening too. So I'm trying to do the form before the detail. So if this was a really smooth hat, you wouldn't well, you would be able to tell that it is moving and it is fabric without adding any of these fine details here. So now we go ahead and we add the base layer of shading. So I'm still using my Tubi because I want it to be nice and smooth. I don't want to have too much texture, but it is a textured hat, so the texture will look good on the fabric. So all we're doing is doing a block tone just to get rid of all the white. So don't worry about any detail for now. The only thing I would say you could do at this stage is just push this little crease in a tiny bit darker. Just so you can see the difference between the light tone and the medium tone next to it. You don't want to lose that line. So go ahead and fill in your block tones in your to B, just ignoring the shadows for now. So the texture, as you can see, is quite rough. And I tried to keep in the direction of the thread because it will just help with the overall appearance. But if you do want to make it super smooth, go for a lighter pressure, and you can go in a different direction, and that just evens out the texture even more. Now, the key to smooth shading is keeping your lines close together. So if my lines are going really far apart, then that's just going to create a really rough, super rough texture, but this is ideal for fabric. So now we're going to grab our ape. And we're just going to go in the dark bits and do the same again. So just fill them in. We're not going too dark, but we are going dark enough so that we see a huge difference between this tone and this tone. 4. Stage 3 - Gradients : A little reflective, so it looks a bit lighter than it is. But as you can see, it's very simple. Dark lights, really rough, looked really bad, but it's going to get a lot better. So what we want to do now is we want to try to separate the foreground, which obviously isn't a huge amount of foreground, but it's just a little bit closer, and this is going to create a little shadow on here. So we're going to start to separate that just by doing a bit of shadow or a bit of gradient, sorry, going from the rim upwards, and we're also just going to look at the edges. So when I'm looking at the edges, I'm always asking myself, what's lighter or darker? This or this. So when I mentioned earlier, you can see that all down here, it's a little bit darker because the top of the brim is a bit lighter. And then when we look at the folds, this side is darker. It's a gradient going round, which obviously we do have on our drawing already. This side is lighter, so I'm actually not gonna touch that at all because it goes lighter to darker. This has texture, so we're gonna leave that. But this down here it goes darker to lighter, and we're just going to make sure we push this a little bit crisper with adding these little ridges, as well. So let's start with this part. So using my Tubi, I just want to first of all, get a slightly tidier edge, make it very definite where the rim is and where the hat is, as well. Then I'm going to do a gradient going upwards. So I am being more careful with my shading now and making sure I'm a little bit slower so that my pencil grain is more accurate, more softer, and less textured. So you'll see I'm working from that ridge and then releasing the pressure that I'm pushing down into the pencil, so I'm pressing much lighter, that just creates a lovely little blend going upwards. Okay, that's looking good. So we're pushing this forward by just making the tone a little bit darker. And then we're going to do the same for this one. But I think I'm actually going to switch to my eight B. And because it's in an awkward position, I want to get a piece of paper underneath my wrist so that I'm not smudging what I've done behind it. So I've just got a little piece there. And then I'm going to start with round here because that's a really dark area. And I want to make sure that I'm sharpening my pencil regularly because it will just give you quite an annoying texture if it's becoming dull. So just keep checking your pencil. This is probably ready for a little sharpen. There we go. And that's just going to get in the grooves of the paper much easier. So I'm just going to start with the edge, and then I'll go back to the beginning and try and blend that in. So just focus on this edge first. I'm not too worried about the one above it. I'll do that one in a second. And again, don't worry about the details in there. We're looking for the form. So trying to see where it's curved, where the tones are, and the detail comes right at the end after all of this. So it's a little bit reflective again. So I'm just holding the paper up so you can see the tone. You see it's darker on this bit, and then it gets a little bit lighter. So now we want to do the opposite. So we did a little bit earlier, and we went from darker to lighter. But this time, we're going to just add some of the ridges. So we're just looking for the outline of the shapes. So we dip a little a little. Dip a little, up a little. Dip a little, up a little. You get the gist. So you can see the little wiggles for the texture, and then the gradient that's coming down. So we'll look at this again later on. But for now, let's start blending in these dark shadows up here. 5. Stage 4 - Gradients Cont: So you can see the little wiggles for the texture, and then the gradient that's coming down. So we'll look at this again later on, but for now, let's start blending in these dark shadows up here. So when we look at these folds, we have a really deep dark color down here, and then it's a gradient that goes around here. So we want to try and make sure that this is a nice blend, but we're not coloring all the way into the lighter side. We will, of course, blend this way, as well, but we want to make sure that we're basically making it all super dark except inside the ridges, and then we're going to transition and gradient out on both sides. So if we go back to the drawing, it looks super blurry on this just because it's so textured. First, I'm going to start to push my darker shadow in even more, and I'm using my A B to do that. Let me get rid of those. There we go. Trying to see how far it comes up, so really high, actually. Push that in. And you can see when you push your pencil in really hard, the tonal difference is huge. A lot of people are scared to go too dark. So when you're going dark, go for it because it's pretty much black. Now, up here, there is a gradient, but there's also a clean line just there. So I'm going to make sure I have a clean line first. And then I'm not going to blend it from here to here, but I will blend from the light onwards, whereas down here, this will be a blend. So first of all, make sure I get the tone. And then I start to lighten it as I go down because it's not super dark down here. And then I'm going to start the gradient. So I'm going to do the gradient with my ape. And I don't know why I started in the middle. But let's go up a bit. Being really careful not to blend this edge. I want this top bit to be crisp. Then there's a gradient on top. So let's try not to make it disappear. Here we go. But then down here, my gradient is going to come out of the darkest bit there we go. Well, it's hard for you to see. Now I go. Hopefully, that's better. And you can see how the gradient is going from this tone to this without really seeing the outline. Was up here, you can see a hard difference. And then down here, there's a really soft difference. So let's spend a bit of time on this section. Keep looking at your type of edge. Is it a gradient all the way from the shadow or is it a harsh line? And then it starts a totally different tone. Alright, that's looking pretty good. Now, what I did notice when I was shading is that this whole section of the hat is much darker than this. So I was just trying to make sure I'm generally pushing the whole thing a little bit darker, and I'm pretty much ready to go down into the other side. So what I'll do now is have a little spasm and rub that out. And I'm just going to do a gradient that goes from this edge. So remember, this should be nice and dark. We already put it in a shadow. But now we can really push it, go for it, and then I'm going to do a gradient that goes across. So I'm looking to see how much light I have. So really, the lightest part in this channel is up here. So when I'm shading it, I'm going to try and just let that slightly lighter tone have its space on here. So let's just work on this outer edge now. Nice and super dark. Push that pencil down, and then a short gradient, leaving a little pocket of It's not white, but it is lighter than the rest. So what we're going to do now is exactly the same for the remaining shadows where it's dark, we're going to really push that dark, and then we're going to blend the edges outwards. So think about how far that blend is. Is it a really short gradient or is it a really long one? So spend the rest of your time now just trying to make it just like this one, where we're going from a super super dark dip and then trying to work on our gradients. 6. Stage 5 - The Brim: So now we've done all the blending, and it's looking super smooth. It's looking like fabric. We want to tackle this. Now, remember we did these dips and these grooves, dips and grooves. So what I'm going to do is in the groove, so the one that's going up, I'm going to try and bend and then go up. So if I just start here, we do a little bend. And then we go up, and I want to stop just before the end. So I'm just doing one side. I'm not making it two ends of the groove. And keep looking at the reference picture. Make sure you're always looking to see where it should go because you never know when something changes in a drawing. So let's start by doing this. And then I'm just running an eye over it to see if there's any major issues with the lines. But obviously, because it is fabric, it is a little bit forgiving. The only major thing I could see is the gap here is a little bit too big, so I'm just going to draw another line there. And then I'm going to switch to my two B. And again, I'm just going to start on this one so you can see it better. But basically, it's a dark side because the forward thredg on the dip, if that makes sense, is casting bit of a shadow in the dip. Did I say dip? Oh, in the actual dip. Not that dip, this dip, too many tips. So then I could just make it a little bit thicker because the groove in between the threads is deeper, so this will be darker than the top. So let's just go ahead now and make left side, darkest, and then the right side of it. Still dark, but just a little less dark. Actually, I made a boo boo. I'm adding detail before the form. What I really should be doing is working on this. So before we continue with that, I'm actually going to get the form underneath better. So that starts by making this darker. And then I'm just going to blend that bit in. So a nice gradient, there we go. And then I'll continue with this. A so then our final thing to do is to treat each half of the line as its own element. So, for example, this side, darker, little glimmer of light, darker little glimmer of light. Same for this one, but the glimmer of light is a bit bigger. This one, small glimmer of light, but then a bigger one. So each individual element will have its own glimmer. Now, I'm not bothered about the stitch. I could spend another 10 hours doing it, but what's the point? So instead, I'm just going to focus on getting the lighting. That's the most important thing. We've got a bit of texture from the stitch, but now we're just gonna take it slow and work around the knit. So just using my two B for this one, and let's see what it looks like in a second. We are nearly there. So this is looking very bright, so we need to dull that down a little bit. But also, we need to make sure that this curve is going round as well. So just from here, let me zoom in. You can see it's darker here, and it goes around like so. So I'm just going to pop that on there. And then on each little section, I'm going to do a little gradient that goes from the bottom upwards in my AB pencil. No, go. That looks much better. And then with my tube, I'm just going to first of all, go over the seam. So I'm leaving that light bit for now. And then because these bits of nit are going into the seam, I can also do a tiny gradient going down. So darker near the seam, down a little. Darker near the seam, down a little. You can see already it's just giving it that little hint that is curving and looking much more realistic. There we go. And then finally on the dips, I'm just going to push that a little bit more. On the dips. And then let's just give it a push mine a little bit darker. It's a tiny bit too bright. Maybe not everywhere. So, there we have it. Lovely three D hat where we don't have to do all of the knit because that is horrific. But by all means, feel free to give it a go if you dare. But otherwise, I hope you enjoyed doing the fabric, the blending, and then just adding a hint of detail just on the rim. Well done team, and I'll see you in the next class.