All You Need to Know About Sleeves Hems

1. April Skirt Hem Intro Pant Hems : Hello, April Jackson here as your teacher. In this module, we will be performing sleep alterations. Sleep ham and meropenem are not that much different, except one is on your leg and the other is on your arm. Because you will be using this thing sewing methods to finish off a variety of sleep patterns. Please refer to the pen found videos. Half-inch top stitch, 1 " top stitch, line stitch and cover stitch towns when these finishes are required on slaves. So let's begin. 2. Sleeves Shorten Less than 3 inches: This client has aligned jacket that we are going to be shortening our sleeves. You can see where we have pinned for the finished ham. What we wanna do at this point, I want to determine how much we're shortening this slave. So I'm just going to turn it in Zeno. Measure what we have flipped up That's inch and three-quarters that we have pinned up that we're hemming this sleeve for our client. So if you need to write that down, write it down, but just make sure you remember that inch and three-quarters. Because I want to show you how this garment is constructed. I call this a plain line sleeve. Plain meaning that there's no details, there's no buttons, but it is lined. And let me flip this out for you to see. The lining is joined. At the bottom of the sleeve. You have a bit of a facing on the inside. That's why it's called plane lined. And for this sleeve, we're hemming it less than 3 ". The routine we will use for this leaf is different than one for more than 3 ". And that's what we're going to show you first. Now that we know we named him this inch and three-quarters, we need to get inside to do our work. We turn the jacket inside out. And a lot of times this jacket will have, if it's not in the one sleeve, Let's look in the other slave. There it is. You can see that that's been top stitched close. We're going to open that up to get inside. That's where they closed off their government when they were constructing. So we just have to undo a couple of stitches, pull the strings. And that opens up for us to do our work. So we're going to take the sleeve that we want. Pull that through. Now at this point we can see that there's tacking. I want to show you on the other sleeve, the corresponding area when the sleeve is together. So inside out, talking there is actually right here. You can see how that's keeping the sleeve in place so it doesn't roll down and keeps the size that talking is that tacking there? We need to undo that. And if the others there was another same. If it was tapped, we do the same but there isn't. Now, I want to show you take her sleeve and put it onto your press board. It's a little hard to see here because they're interfacing is really, really light. But there is interfacing along here and we're actually going to replace that with an, a better interfacing. Sometimes you might have a really wide interfacing. If it's a good quality, we don't have to replace it as long as our finished ham falls within it. But this one does not. They're interfacing ends here. It's a little hard to see, but I will show you can see once we get the good interfacing on, we're having an inch and three-quarters. You can see that they're interfacing is below that. So we are going to put some new interfacing. I like to start on a seam. And at my seam inch and three-quarters, I'm actually going to put a snip. There. Were always going to snip it. That way. We can see where we're going. And I'm going to put another little marks. I can see that. Don't worry if you can't right now, you'll see where I'm gluing though. When I put my interfacing right here, this edge is falling along our new seam line, our Newham, which would be on the corresponding sleep right here. So I'm going to lay our interfacing down and I always tuck it underneath the seam allowance. Your iron, give it a little bit of a press into place. Just be careful when you're sleeve is inside out. You don't press any creases in it that you don't need. Sometimes if you press a crease in, you might not get it out. So I've got that area press down. I'm going to rotate it a little bit onto my board. Same thing. I'm going to measure up from the old ham. Inch and three-quarters. Lay my interfacing down so that this is my new seem. This is actually going to be my new facing. This area here. This is the new facing here. Press that down. Now we're back to our original seam. I'm going I can see where my first snip was pilot program right along there. Tuck that underneath the seam allowance. I'm trimming a little bit more so it lies flat and fuse that down. Now you'll notice that I didn't separate the lining from the outer material. When you're having your slaves under 3 " you do not have to separate that. We're gonna do this technique at the machine. I'll give you a little preview. When we take this to the sewing machine. We line up our lining with our outer material. And you can see how we can easily get into there. We're going to put our new stitching here. And the stitching that we're putting along here, you'll see when we get to the machine is actually this stitching that will be repositioning. And with this particular technique, you don't have to do all that separating it just gives you a more work if you can get away without doing that. So at this point we're actually going to go to the machine. And so the new lining to the new facing. We're at the sewing machine with the long line sleeve, which we're shortening less than 3 ". So this point we're going to go in through our opening from the lining, pull the sleeve inside out so we can see the area where we're working at. This is the old stitching. We are going to be replacing that stitching down into our new interfacing. The first thing we wanna do is with the old stitching line up our scenes and I'm lining up the lining, same with the outer material. I always have my outer material upper I was going to so from that side. And we're going to take this material and put it underneath the foot half inch from the top of our new interfacing. I've got the needle in and it's holding my material into place. Because now we're going to want to make sure the lining stay smooth. And so the two layers together half inch from the new interfacing, that'll be our new cut line. Smooth that out nice and smooth. Nice and smooth here and continue sewing till we get to where we started. Reinforce our stitching, take out her work. And you can see that our new stitch line. And if we were to measure it, this sleeve we were humming inch and three-quarters. This stitch line should be about inch and three-quarters from the original. It's a little shy. The main reason being that my interfacing is a little bit wider than what they had, but everything will fall into place. My main concern is that the finished him is that it's exactly inch and three-quarters from their original hand. Tremor threads. And now at this point, we can actually trim off this extra material. I'm going to keep my hand inside because I want to make sure I'm not cutting any of the lining. And we're going to trim right along the edge of my new interfacing. Throw that away. Now we're going to replace the tracking, which will hold our him into the new position. So with the scenes facing open, flatten them onto each other, pull it out so we can stitch on the seam allowance. That under the machine of attack, at this point we are going to keep this same facing open. We can only talk so far here. We're going to make sure it stays onto the seam allowance. And now we want to actually tack the lining a little bit up into the sleep. This makes sure that when the client is putting their arm back into their sleeves, they're not pushing their linings through. So at this point, leave the same flat open. Take your coordinating seen from the lining laid on top. Make sure it's flat, but always push it forward, just a hair giving it a little bit of ease. This will guarantee that the lining isn't pulling. When the alteration is finished. That just keeps that in place there. I'll go in and turn this right side out. You can see this is our new stitch line. New facing finished him. The lining that we tacked as well as our new him. At this point, once both sleeves are finished, we are going to close up the lining where we went inside the do all our work. You can see that the siem has just been taught stitched. So we're going to replace that top stitching close to the folded edge just like they had there. And now the jacket has been closed up from the work we had done. So I'll sealed. And now we'll go to up to the pressing table to give us our final press. Makes sure that it looks nice and neat. Yes. And now we'll give it our final press. Were at the table ready there press are finished ham. We can see how the linings kinda puffy There. We want to get that nice and flat. Whenever I'm doing asleep ham, I usually like to insert. This actually used to be a shoulder pad that I just flattened out. It works fine. I usually like to insert that in this way. When I'm pressing this area, I'm not ready to press this yet because it's not into place. So I always put us just something inside it. Whether you purchase something or you make something. What I want to do is I want to make sure also that my lining is all pulled up. So I'm putting pressure on the facing. But I'm actually going to reach my hand inside this leaf and I'm pulling the lining up just to make sure that it's all flat. And then I'll even take my ruler and give them just a little bit of a push just to make sure everything is nice and flat. Before I start pressing. Give that a press on that side. Flip it over this side. And now we're going to press this area flat. So same thing in search, you're pressing gadget. If our lining has moved, we can always reach in and flatten that out again, but this one hasn't. Now I just want to make sure I press out any creases that might've gotten put in there. The first two presses. We Can I just sometimes I just move that up my hand, but you can use your clapper to smooth that out. The first leaf has been pressed. And we can see how nice that looks inside, nice and clean. And now your plane line sleeves are complete and ready to present to your customer. 3. Sleeves Shorten More than 3 inches: We're still working on the jacket. This is actually the other sleeve of the jacket that we did, the original plane lined ham. When you're going to be hemming asleep more than 3 ". We cannot do that simple technique of doing inside sowing. To keep without undoing this particular area, we do need to separate the lining from the outer material. So let's say we're gonna be having this particular sleeve 4 ". The first thing we're going to need to do is separate the lining then from the outer material at the wrist. So let's get this undone. The need to use the blade and areas. Go ahead. And now that that's separated, we're going to, if there's any tacking on your scenes under your tacking. Alright, so we're going to be having this leave 4 ". So the first thing we wanna do is move our outer material out of the way, pull out our lining. And one way we can do this is by just from their cut edge measuring 4 ". And we could easily cut this off. And the lining technically is 4 " shorter. That's ready to go. I do want to show you afterwards if you let's say you weren't able to do that, there is a way to determine the length of your lining. I will show you that in just a second. So now for our outer material, we're going to go turn our work inside out, move the lining out of the way. And we're going to just like we did with the other sleeve. The first one we did mark our line where we want our interfacing to go. We want it to be placed. So this is now 4 ". That's our new finished line. I measured 4 " from their original ham, put a snip into our seam allowance. Let's press on our interfacing just like we did with the other, but now we don't have the other material in our way at all. I'm a little bit more area to me. Line that up with our snip. And now we can actually cut this excess off at the bottom of the interfacing. This is our new finished him. This is the facing and this will be our new cut edge, which is actually this was the original cut edge. We can cut this straight across now and throw that piece away. So when our work is all done, this will actually be turned inside like that. I wish wanted to show you. Will actually reinforce that same too because we cut and there's no tacking that came out. We'll reinforce that. I just want to put a pin in there to hold our new him into place. Because I wanted to show you another way you can cut your lining. I generally would just measure the 4 " and cut that off of my lining. But if you're ever wondering another way to do it, I'm going to churn your grandma. Good side out. That's our new finished him. Pull your lining down, flatten that out. And you could actually cut your lining right there where the new then a TAM is and that should work out. It actually works out to 4 " anyways. That will work out perfectly by the time it's joined. That's another way you can figure out the lining if you wondered wary to cut that. But it's easier just to measure 4 " and cut it off. We're going to turn this right side out or inside out. I'm I mean, now we need to rejoin the lining to the outer material. Our main concern at this point is we just want to make sure the lining and the material doesn't get twisted. It's nice that this has just one seam. Pull this back a little. We will close that up when we get to the machine. Right now I'm just going to flip this under, make sure my seams are lined up. Pin that into place to hold it for me. And now we'll pull that sleeve through the opening that we have in the jacket. We're going to reach all the way in, pull that through. And then when we get to the machine, we're kind of at the same place that we would be from our original ham, were just sewing these two layers together. I just leave this pinned in the place where we get to the machine that it gets doesn't get mixed up. And now we'll go to the machine and we will. So these two layers together. We're at the sewing machine with the line sleeve that we were having more than 3 ". For the rest of this alteration, I have put in a dark contrasting thread. This way you can better see where I'm placing my stitching. The first thing I want to do is I've placed in a pan over to keep my lining and the facing still together. I want to close up the seam that was starting to come undone because we cut it. So at this point I'm just going to do that repair first. And this portion I always saw with the good material of the jacket facing you, the lining will be away from you. I'm going to really line up that seam that I had lined up. This scene was pressed open, so we are going to keep that pressed open. I have the raw edges of my lining and my good material even. And now I'm going to put that under the machine to, so the good material and the lining together put that underneath. This is similar to what we had done with the sleeve that the linings remained attached. So now we're just opening this out and keeping the raw edges even. And we're going to solo the lining and the sleeve together at the raw edges. As the very, you can see, these are lined up. Makes sure that seem remains open. Now I'm Danielle, be able to see where I had sown. Now I have the lining attached to the outer material and that's about half inch from the raw edge. Now, that tacking we had shown you earlier that kept this facing in place. We do that by opening out the scene, keep it flat and fold it face-to-face with the seams open. And we're going to tack this within the seam allowance. I want to keep my seam open. The moles of an attack my lining a little bit further up. First of all, I'm just doing a little bit attacking as close as I can with the two, the seam allowance open. And then we're gonna kinda skip up to here. Because we want to tap down our lining a little bit up. What's very important is when we do this, I don't want to pull on my lining too much because if we have the lining pulling too much when the sleeve is finished, the outer material will buckle. So wherever this lies nicely, I'm going to just push it down a little to give it a little bit of ease. And I'm just gonna do a couple of stitches here. Just the tack that you can see how that's tax there. We remove that too when we were opening up our sleeve. And now the seam allowances tacked so that it will keep our finished him in. I'm going to turn this right side out now so we can see what that looks like. Region to the coat, find the sleeve you're working on, pull it through. There we go. And we can see that's where the stitching we just did. You can see with the contrasting thread. We have are facing and we have at tax now so that the Newham will stay in place. We'll take that, go up to the pressing table and we'll give that a final press. Insert the pressing pad. Pressure on the bottom so I can pull my lining up, my ruler to smooth out any other bumps inside. Flip that over. Press out the crease that we might have pressed in. And on the other side. And now you're playing line sleeves are complete and ready to present to your customer. 4. Ladies' Blouse Sleeve Cuff Placket: Today we're gonna be working on ladies blow sleeves. Generally it will be a sleeve with a cuff and a plaque it that we will be moving up when we're doing our shortening. Let's take a look at what that looks like. Here we have the sleeve. It's bound by a separate cuff at the bottom. And the plaque, it is considered this opening. This plaque, it actually has a separate piece that has bounded. Once in a while you will see a plaque that is just turned under in top stitched. This one has a separate piece that is bound. We will be moving that up also. The first thing we wanna do is just assess our length that we're going to be doing. We're going to pretend this particular calf is going to be shortened to inches. That's how we're going to move everything up. So let's just jump right in. It's another one of those projects that's much easier to see than it is to explain. The first thing we need to do is remove all the pieces that are joined onto the cuff right now. So we're going to take the cuff off and the plaque it in that order with this particular sleeve, we don't have to take off our buttons. First. Let's just run our rays are underneath the back of the cuff. Get that started. I always like to check first. Will it tear open? Because if it does, it'll be much quicker. And this one does. It may be top stitch that each of the ends. So just released that. Once you take the cuff off, it is a good practice to pin it to the sleeve which it came from this way you don't get them mixed up. Even if you get them mixed up there, you can figure out which goes to which sleeve. And it does, One is made customer for each of this leaves another item to take note of before you take everything apart is if there's any pleading to there may be either gathers, but this one has pleading. So I'm not going to necessarily measure those. You can if you'd like. Each of these plates is about three-quarters of an inch tucked in underneath. And their approximate placement there were always on the side that accompanies the button hole. That's generally where your plates are going to be. We don't need to know the exact measurement because when we take our sleeve up, we may be going into a fuller area, are pleats may be just a quarter of an inch or so larger. We're going to make that adjustment as we put everything back together. We do need to take out those pleats. So let's just tap those threads there, just to release them. Now we're going to take out the plaque it. First thing they have done here is they have done a little bit of stitching right across here, which holds that the plaque it into that shape. We're going to undo that little tacking that makes that little v First. The side that also has the pleats and the buttons will generally be flipped to the inside. And as you can see, it's actually tact and secured into that position. We are going to undo that also. And you can see that the plaque at peace is actually just the rectangular piece of fabric that's in like a double biased fold. Now we're ready to remove that. Same like we always do to slide it underneath the back. You might not want to pull this one just because it is on a section that is just cut. And if you were to pull too hard, you wouldn't want it to cut or a tear all the way up the arm of the sleeve, that would not be good. And of course, we want to clean up all our threads off at each of the pieces that has come out. This way when we put everything back in place that we won't have those threads to put the fight with. Once again, pin that plaque it to the other side. Alright. Now what we're going to do is we're going to mark and cut this sleeve. If this area is really not lying flat, you can always use your iron to give it a bit of a press. It is important at this time to measure the length of the slit that they have cut in. This one measures at two-and-a-half inches. We have decided that this leaf is going to be ham 2 ". The first thing we're gonna do now is Mark 2 " from their cut edge. I'm going to continue their cut line down. And we know that it goes two-and-a-half inches from the cut edge. So I'm going to put a little crosshairs right there at two-and-a-half inches. Cut the 2 " off that. We need to make this leave the appropriate length. Make sure you lift this up. You don't want to cut through both layers. And we're going to cut straight down to where your crosshairs are at that two-and-a-half and now we have replaced that slit there. That's where the plaque it's going to lie. Do that to the next leaf. And our next step is we will be going to the sewing machine. We're at the sewing machine. We're going to start with whichever side you'd like. I am using a contrasting thread gray for this demonstration for you so you can see more accurately where I'm sewing. Our first step is where it's actually reverse of what you have done a few of the order of which you took everything off in the beginning. You are just going to go backwards and reverse that. So since we took this plaque it off last time, we're going to replace that first. I'm just making sure that the placard, remember we had that little sewing that put it into that v0. So that tells me that this is the good side that I want up. With the V facing in like that. Just fits in about a quarter of an inch. Even at, at the tops. If you've measured in cut, right, this should all work out. We're going to put our stitch length through about a two. We do want a little bit smaller of a stitch. Just trying to get out from my old threads. First thing we wanna do is get it into the machine so the needle is holding it. It's one of those steps that is just much easier to show you then to actually explain to you. At this point, you should see that the halfway mark, which is the point of your area you cut, should line up nicely with the halfway mark on the your plaque at facing with your needle in. It's helping to anchor your work. Or just going to get this in in lined up with see how they have their quarter-inch facing flipped in. We're just gonna get your cut plaque at lined up. Just with that, just to that point, we're not going to go any further than that. Flip your packet back over and we're putting our top stitching rate in their mark. You can see where it's just at a level less than an eighth of an inch. Just give it a go. You can see now as we're getting closer to the cut point that it's a little less to put in. Leave your needle in, lift up your foot. Let's get that tucked in a little bit more. We need to just make sure that catches at that point. I'm going to show a little bit more. Now with the needle in. I'm going to spin it around. And now I'm going to come up the other side. Move manipulate your material so it's out of your way up the other side. Let's take a look at that. When the main things we want to check is that it has caught in the back. It is a little bit out further than their stitching was. But keep in mind that if this is the same color using this, you notice this more because I have used contrasting. If this is the same color, that wouldn't be as noticeable, but we do want to try and get that a little closer. I'm going to do the other side right now, that other same piece so that we can see we can get that a little closer for you. Locate your other sleeve. And my pieces that are pinned on it. We're going to put the other pocket piece on just so we can review that again. We've determined this is the side we want up because we can see that's how it's folded. So this is our top side. Slip that into their into their stitching. Let's get her needle into the machine so it's holding our work for us. We want to make sure also we're not pulling anything either of these because it will stretch them out and they won't line up properly, just let them fall into place. That's lined up with the quarter-inch here. Lie that right there. See how well that worked falls into place. I'm going to flip over my front so it's lined up. And now let's see if I can so on a straight line with this one, once you get to your to your halfway mark, put the needle in so it's anchoring your work. Spin it around. Bring this up. Move this extra material out of your way. If you have to do a couple more stitches, go ahead. So you're sewing backup on a straight line. And we'll go to the top. There we go. Not too bad, better than the other one. At this point, we're going to put in that tacking that they had that holds it into that nice V-shape. So we want to fold this your pocket rate in half. We already have the small stitch now we're just going to replace that stitching. They had their, their tactics into the V. Take a look at that. That looks good there. We'll do the same with the other slave. When you're working on your sleeves on your own, you can finish one complete sleeve. I'm just going back and forth for your sake so that we can see, reinforce each step here. For this completely in half. We want to make sure that we don't catch the actual blouse material into our tacking and replace the attacking. Now let's put the cuff back on, start working with the cuff area. I wanted to position my sleeves so that you can see this cough goes on to this sleeve. So what's important is getting the depletes on the correct side. Another way that you can tell where the buttonhole will go. Therefore, your pleats is. Let's flip this a little bit this way for us to see. This area of the sleeve has a very short distance from the underarm. Seem that will always be your button, therefore, your backside. This area has this wider spacing. That will always be where your buttonhole goes. Therefore, that is your considered your goods side. Do you remember the plaque at peace was tapped like this on the inside and as you can see, that allows that to fall over nicely like that. So we're going to put that little piece attacking in. But before we do that, let's just put a pin in there to hold that. This is where we're going to get this piece of material at the cuff. Now to fit the cuff itself, as we can see, there's a lot of excess. One way you can do that is line your cuff up here. Let's see how much excess material we have. I can get this for you. We're going to run this along. And we can see that we have this much material that we have to tuck into your plates. You can measure that if you'd like. It's about three-and-a-half inches, then you can divide that among to plead sizes. Do the mathematics. I don't do that. I just fold my pleats and then I'm going to line it up again and see if that's going to be enough. It's in the same positions. I don't pull out a ruler for this. It's more of a visual for me. My main concern is that this distance from here to here and from each pleat when I put the other slave together is fairly equal. So I'm just going to make two plates that resembled the ones that were in the mouth originally. But a couple of pins in there. Now let's measure that again and see how that's gone. I'd like to avoid as much mathematics as possible if I can. Now we can see how that's a little too short. This plate is a little bit bigger than what I like than the other ones, so I'm going to remove it from there. Do a quick measure once again, and that should be good. And there we go. Now we've got that just where we want. Let's run a stitch across this to base it. Within the half inch from the cut line. We just want to do a row of basting to hold these together so we can remove our pins. And now we're ready to put our cuff back on. We always like to start with the buttonhole side. It is most important that this looks the best because this is the side that's going to show another tip to make sure everything's lining up properly. We wanna make sure that when the plaque, the cough is on, that when it will be completely even at the same spot here. So what I'm going to do is put a little mark of chalk just like that. And you'll see when I put that on and where those two trucks come into play. All right. I'm going to talk this raw edge into the kF rate to where that chalk mark was. Get that pushed up as far as I can close to the edge. Once again, put my needle in so it's anchoring my work. I'm going to open my cuff, lay the raw edge of the sleeve inside the cuff. And I'm making it so that it's kind of even with what they have flipped inside, which is about half an inch. I do have a small stitch again, I'm gonna do a little front and back just to secure that. Now we're going to put an eighth of an inch from the fold. Always leave your needle in when you're repositioning. Do the next few inches of your work. Lay down your cuff In, continue to sell down the next few inches. At this point, you'll see we're getting close to the end. We're going to talk the raw edge under and I'm going to make sure that the bottom of my cuff is lined up with that chalk mark that we did just before we started this row. Tuck that in, just wind up. There's no creases. And let's finish that row. Trimmer threads. And this side is ready. We always want to check, make sure it's caught on the back that didn't skip. That. It's all sealed. And it's not as imperative if this isn't perfectly lined up because that is inside. And remember, we will be doing this in its matching color. What is most important is that this side looks neat and clean when it's finished. And you can see if we did up our button. That lines up nicely like that too. Let's do finish off the other side. This is the area of our sleeve that has the shortest Ariel. So we know that is actually the back. This is the front where our good details will be, where the button hole is. So once again, turn your facing to the inside. Let's put a pin in there to hold that. If you'd like at this point, you can always kinda make, take a visual this. The first pleat on the other sleeve is approximately 1 " and three-eighths from our fault. If you wanted to keep that just so that it's looking even. You're welcome to do that. I generally just take do it visually, but if you want it too, you could always just put a pin in there so it gives you a bit of a guide. After you do enough of these, you just need to you don't even think about it after awhile, but you're welcome to put that pin in there for measuring. You can see that please here is a little bit further away than what I've done with this one. So I'm just gonna make sure I adjust that a little. Nobody's pulling out rulers to measure your clothing as long as it looks symmetrical or even just by visually looking at it. That is, you're gonna be more important. Let's do a quick trial run to see if this is taken up enough. Yes, I'm happy with that. Let's base those into place. Remove our pins. We want to apply that little small piece of chalk, makes sure our cuff is going to be even when it's all done. So about half an inch down. Put a little piece of small chalk mark. The only difference with this as when we did our last cuff because we always want to have the buttonhole side on the top it just because it is the most important. And we always want to be sewing from the button towards the actually the button hole to the buttons because that is your most important. You can see that in order for us to do that now, we actually have to switch all our work-around. Yes, it would feel more comfortable to start here and go down to the other side. We want to switch that around like this so that we are starting with the buttonhole side. It just ensures that every time this area is going to get up as far as in as close as it can and be the neatest. If we happen to have a little space down in where the button area is, it's not going to be as imperative because it's going to be covered up with the buttonhole. Whatever areas showing the most is the area you want to look the best. It's good practice to learn to so on lefts and rights, not just in one direction too. So we're going to tuck in the raw edge. Make sure I can see my little chalk mark that we put there and it's up close lined up with the edge of the cuff that underneath the machine get the needle in there to hold it for me. Line up my raw edge with the raw edges on the inside of the cost. It's about a half an inch inside. We're going to do a little bit front and back to lock that there. And now let so our first few inches needle in. Reposition. The next few inches ready to go. Needle in. I have seen some sores. Pin this all across. But as you can see how this keeps curling anyways, you can never get this laid right flat, so it's going to stay that way and you can only still so in increments of maybe three to 4 ". So for me, pinning is just a step That's not really necessary because I can only still do these few inches in the first place. So I just do my holding and repositioning all-in-one without a pinning step. If you feel more confidence to do the painting, it's just going to add more time to your work. But feel free to do that in the beginning and gradually stop the pinning. Looking for are aware of my other chalk mark is so that it's lined up with my cuff there. And let's finish off this row. Little bit front and back to lock clipper threads. And let's check the backside to make sure everything looks good on this side. And then on the backside everything oh, see here, this hasn't caught. We miss the little area. All we wanna do for that because it's a nice smooth piece of top stitch and we don't have to take it all out. But I am going to lift up a little bit and just reposition that. Keep in mind too that if when we are using the same color of thread as our material, when we do this top stitching back in again, we don t have to take out as much. It will blend nicely still. But because we can see this here, I want to make sure it's going to be nice and smooth. This doesn't happen that often anyways, a lot of when the shirt is manufactured, a lot of times the underside is cut a fair amount larger than the front side so that it doesn't miss. When you put this bath underneath. You're a lineup my stitching so it blends in nice, doesn't look like we've made a mistake. And I'm just going to consciously make sure that at the back here, it's going to catch this time. That's why it's always good to check. Doesn't happen often, but once in a while it does. And there we can see how we did it. We did do that. Now, we've caught that along here. J just didn't line that up. There we go. That's better. Clean up my threads. And our sleeves are now ready. We have our pleats repositioned, we have our Planet back-end and our cough and everything is 2 " shorter than it was when our customer brought it in. This is definitely one of those projects that you need to practice a couple of times, it's just learning to manipulate the material. But with the, each time you practice, you'll get better and better and it'll become easier and easier.