All You Need To Know About Pant Hems

1. April Intro Pant Hems: April Jackson as your teacher. In this next module, we're going to look at panhandle. The churn bread and butter often refers to those tasks within any trait that are done frequently. And quite simply. For the alteration specialists, pan hands are that bread and butter. You'll find you'll be doing them often as well as they are done quickly. And therefore, they become a really big source of income for the alteration specialist. As a rule, when a client brings in a pair of pants to you, you are going to replace the same home that came within that. For example, if someone brings in a pant and they were to have a yoga ham replaced on it. We want to make sure that we are replacing that same style of hemp. If someone has a top stitch or a blind hem on the bottom of the pants, we want to make sure that we replaced that. The one exception for that rule is if we're doing some work for children, I always like to ask the parent if they would like us to include extra material within the facing. This way, the pant can be let down as the child grows. And that is something we always want to confirm when speaking with our client. So here we go. Good luck, and I hope you enjoyed this module. So here we go. 2. Lesson 1: Pinning Wide Bottom Pant Hem: I wanted to show you today the difference of how a wider leg pant is going to fit a lot differently than the genes that we pinned in our other video. The genes we had were really narrow ankles so it didn't fall down around the foot of your client. So that's why it's important to have your clients trying on each garment, especially if they're constructed differently. And of course this is a yoga pant. So it's draping a lot more Also than a gene would. So we're going to pin it in the same fashion. We always tuck everything under, but it's going to seem a little longer than that. This ankle was a narrower like something like that. So we're going to flip under the material, excess material. And I always have my client, like I said, facing the mirror for me to do my work. And our client actually has no shoes on with this and that's fine. I like painting my garments to the bottom of their heel, so it's almost touching the floor because I feel you got to take your shoes off some time so you don't want it dragging on the floor. But also if your pant is touching the like not touching her just at the back. At the bottom of the heel of her foot. Even if she wears a bit higher of a heel, It's still going to fall in the same place. So I have established my back. I'm going to have return in a second. So you can see that better. Now. Basically flipping the remainder under, so it's like a straight line. I can see it's visually a straight line. Put one pin in the front. And because this material will flip down a little bit more, I like to put one in the side also, but not always, if the material is a little firmer, you don't have to do that. So now I can see that I like the way this looks. It's a nice straight line, but we're going to have her client turns slightly so she can see in the mirror. And you can see also, I'm gonna make sure it's slipped under how that's almost to the floor. And she can see how it looks in the mirror sideways. You always ask your client, are you happy with that? They'll say yes or no. And if they're happy you leave it. If not, they might say, well, you know what? I'm thinking? That's a little shorter. I wanted a little longer at the back. Just take out the pins, roll it a little down a little bit. And let's put it back in. It's as easy as that because it's easy to adjust the ham with the pins. Then once we've cut it, name is okay. Yes, I like that at this 0.1. Other thing I'd like to show you while we're here the majority of the time, we always just pin one leg on our client. If our client has two different leg lengths, they will let you know. You can either tell clearly or they'll let you know. Never I never pin both legs all the time. Because me trying to be really accurate, I'm going to make more mistakes than pitting one leg, cutting both the same. At this point, should your client say you need to pin the other legs have different leg lengths? That's where I leave them standing the way they are. I'd like, we know we are happy with this length. So at this point, I'm going to line my backs up. And I only worry about the back At that point. I don't do the front. Okay. See, put a pin in. I definitely want to put cross pins in like I always do. I always put cross pins in the back. Should one pin come out. I'll always have the other. I'm happy with that. So if you're happy with that, they're both the same length when it's on your client. When whoever gets this, they should understand that they actually have to take both pants, legs, mark them separately because there's a difference in your client's leg lengths. If only one is done, we know that's not an issue. But whenever I get one with two pins, that way, I'm always going to mark them separately to make sure that when my clients were in them, they're going to be parallel and even on them. And that's it. 3. Lesson 2: Mock Euro Hem: A mock euro hem is similar to the euro hem which we demonstrated earlier. The only difference is that with the Euro hand, we actually took out the old top stitching and cut the material, cut the old ham off and moved it up with a mock euro. We're not actually going to even take out that top stitching. We want to do that whenever we have a gene or a pant Where we can't match up the stitching at all. Or it might be a really thick stitching. Or if there happens to be a pant with even a drawstring, we can move that all up without having to take out any of that stitching there. This particular path, we need to have the client needs it to inches shorter. So we need to keep that in mind. I'm going to turn the pant inside-out. It's important to remember how much they want hemmed. If the client wants their pants hemmed, two inches shorter than what it is now, we're going to take your ruler and we're actually going to mark a line half of that, one inch from the fold of their old hemp. One inch. Put that over. One inch, one inch. Connect that Allah. Because when we go to the machine, we're going to fold the pant on that one-inch line. Will be putting our stitching right here. Cutting, inserting this off, which you'll see in the next step. Therefore, making the pants were taking out two inches. And therefore, when all is said and done, the parent will be two inches shorter. That's how we calculate how much we're going to be taking out of the pant. But we'll see that clearer when we go to the machine. When we're at the machine for the mock hero ham, our main objective with thread color is we want to match up whatever color thread is. Your background material here we happen to have gene. If this was a patient that had a drawstring and it was dark gray, we're going to match up the dark gray or whatever the material consists of your pant. That's the color we want to match up when we're doing a mock euro, we're not so concerned about the top stitching because we're not touching any of the top stitching. It's going to be this color that when we do our small stitch, we want to blend in into B is less noticeable as possible. Because this is a gene. And we have our fixed seems once again, we're going to thin out our seams within this area. Since we're having this a total of two inches overall, we're going to trim when little bit less than one inch from each side of the line that we drew. You'll see how this works once we get into our work. Here we have our thick flat file scene. We're going to trim that just the same cutoff, the top fold and into the stitching a little bit. You can see even just cutting it's very thick. If we can take some of that out. We're still going to need the pull-out or a hammer for this particular job. I'm gonna do a little bit of pounding. Alright, this is the leg that we have marked here. So we'll just work with this one. Our line that we drew on there, that's are going to be our fold line. I'm going to want a folder pants on that line. And we're gonna go under the machine. Actually going to turn arms stitch to a small stitch. Whenever we're doing this type of a mock year or a year, we'd like a smaller stitch. It's more secure plus it just going to blend more. This is still very fixed, so we get the pull-out or a hammer. Might not seem like it's doing much, but it helps. Make sure these things are lined up nice and straight here. We don't want them slip it over like this. We're going to put our needle in and we're going to put our needle in. Our stitching is going to fall. We see our top stitching here. You're going to stitch rate on that edge of the fold may seem very rapidly. But if we put our stitching rate on that full, when we go to our good side, we'll be able to see this. Clearly and everything's going to fall into place. So it's important that we stitch rate on that fold, fold on our line we drew. That's actually, I can see that's clearly parallel. This is a very thick section, so I'm actually going to walk it through with the hand. We all just because it's so thick. If I were to run that through, I may break and needle. Okay. There we go. Fold on the line we drew. And I'm going to stitch right on that fold. Leave the needle into adjust all it on our lines, give the material a little bit of a pound. Now the thick area, so I'm going to walk it over. I'm walking in overusing the hand wheel. Just to be sure doesn't us to nato. Now let's take a look and see what we have. You can see on the good side that when I open that up, the seam is just above. They're all top stitching. And we want to be to clearly see they're all top stitching. That's perfect. That's just what we want. Now. This particular pad has if this only had this old was only half an inch inside, if we only had the Hamlet's one inch total, we wouldn't go to the surgery and clean this up. But because it's got a wider fold, we're gonna go to the surgery, surge and trim this up. Before we come back and do our final topic. We're at the searcher for the mock euro. We want to trim this down to about a half inch and we want to search the finished edge. But remember, it was really thick in this area though the surgery does have a knife. We don't want to risk the knife getting broke. So I would always rather trim. You can see how thick this is. Just trying to cut it with scissors. I'd rather cut the thicker areas with my scissors ahead of time. It's cheaper to do that than to break your knife. There. I actually just have gray in my machine. This whole finish this off nicely. If I had black or white, either one of those would work fine. Lift up my presser foot just to get my work underneath. And when I'm running it around, I'm only going to get as close as this pressure foot running along this fold. When you get to the thicker edge, getting a little bit of a push. Seen, do all the work. You can see how that nicely finishes off that edge. So when our work is done, it's still looks nice and clean on the inside. We're back from surging the inside. Now we're going to come back and what we're wanting to do is do a really small top stitch to hold this fall down and into place so it doesn't get in the way of our decorative top stitching thread on the inside leg like we always do. I'm going to make sure that's nice and flat. We do have a very small stitch. This it goes slowly over any thick areas. We want to pull out vaccine. So make sure it's not covering the good top stitching that we've worked so hard to show about an eighth of an inch from where our fold. If you've matched your thread welling up and use a small enough stitch, especially on a gene. You won't even notice this. If this is a patient that has a drawstring in it, you may notice this particular stitch, but it's still going to look nice and neat and clean. Long as you match up the color well enough, but it may not be as invisible. Slowly over the thick area. And I want to show you what this looks like on its side. See how that stitching blends in and virtually invisible. But we still have our old ham and are all top stitching. We will take this to the iron, give it a quick press and the parent has finished. Our mock year-old hem is on the table and ready to be pressed and steamed. You can see how it's a little thicker. So this is why pressing is going to be a vital step. Because it's going to help to soften that up and flatten that out. Under your press cloth. Lots of steam and pressure. Use your clapper, flatten it out. And you can see how that also helps to blend in. Are invisible stitch even more. Do the other side. A bit of a pound. I'm just going to flatten out at that point. I just put it in there. There. You can see how nice that looks. When it's all pressed. This is the inside of the pant with our same searched, the excess pressed up. Now your mock euro gene is pressed, ready to present to your customer. This is definitely a technique you're wanna go into. Find a few more pairs of pants, four to practice, practice. So that the more you practice, the more confident you'll be. 4. Lesson 3: Euro Jean Hem: So when pinning a ham for gene, I usually have my client facing the mirror. Obviously these genes need a little bit of a ham. We always rule our pants up underneath, gives a more accurate him in the end, make sure you look straight ahead. Sometimes your client will be wanting to look down, but that's going to alter the hem. So make sure they look straight ahead. They'll be able to see in the mirror while we have pinned. Now this client doesn't have any shoes. She just where normally wears running shoes. So I'm going to bring this all the way down. So the back is straight and rate flat to the floor. Once that's in place, I'm going to ask the client to turn to her, right. You can return to your right this way. They can see in the mirror exactly what we have pinned without having to bend. And if they're happy with that, what we're going to do is put our pins in and I always just pin the back. And I always put two pins in. That way. If one pin comes out, we'll always have two. And then we have our finished pen. When we do a basic, what's called a half-inch top stitch ham or gene ham. The pant is generally cut and rolled under and then we replace the half-inch top stitching. But you can see how it has a new finish. It does not have the same finish that was in the bottom. The urethane hammer will actually take the old finished that has been given that distress look and moved up. So this is what we're going to do next. The parent we pinned earlier on our client. This is our finished ham at the bottom here, we're going to put a checkmark. Remove our pins, make sure our legs or even. I'm going to draw a line where the finished ham will be. And we're actually going to cut on that finished line. I always cut a little quarter of inch below. I just like being safe. Each leg I cut separately. I'm going to take that ligand, pin it to the where it came from. So I don't get them mixed up. And I'm going to cut the other leg and pin that to that. Now we're going to go to the machine and prep the alteration further. We're going to take one of the legs, turn the pant leg inside-out and with a sharp blade, we are going to remove the old ham. It's always important to make sure your blade is sharp. You're going to make less apt to make any mistakes with a sharp blade. Then with a dull blade. When she get towards a thicker seem always carefully blade it out. It's always usually thicker, harder to get out. And then we can continue on. I always aim my blade a little bit up towards the back of the pan, are aware the hem is not towards the outer material. If you happen to cut a hole in it and that's okay. We can always repair it too. Believe me, I've cut my sheriff holes. Now we're going to take out the old stitching. This is the messiest part. Good side. Sure. All the old stitching is out. If there are any stragglers, you can always pick them out as you're putting in your sewing. Now it's time to cut off the excess. We are just going to keep the bottom part. And I'm going to show you where I'm going to cut. This is the line from the original top stitching. We're actually going to cut half an inch from that line. It's important that it's half an inch. That line is going to be very useful in our next step. I don't generally mark that. I just usually visit. I'd up from that line, Where are you going to cut all the way round, half inch. Throw away the excess. At this step, we are going to actually trim up some of the seams so it's not so thick when we're doing our sewing. So trim up some of the seam allowances in the bottom of the ham. Make sewing a little easier. We're gonna get this pin into place. I always want whichever siem has two rows of stitching. It's harder to see with this pair of jeans because it has all the stitching is done with blue, but we can see how this has no top stitching. This seemed does have our top stitching. We want to line that seem backup. I'm going to flip it right sides together. I always pen with the piece we cut towards us. Line-up. Those where Marx put a pin through, spin around to the other seam. Same thing we're going to line up or where Marx and put a pin through. This leg is actually ready to be sewn back together. We're just gonna do the same with the other leg. Once we have both legs pinned and ready to. So we're gonna go under the machine. I like to. So this part with a smaller stitches, I'm going to go to what To just because you're sewing will actually fall right here. Since there's such a small seam allowance and genes contend to fray, I like having a really small thread which is going to hold my two layers together really well. I always start on wherever the thicker seam is. So if you have the scene that has two rows of stops at top stitching, I always like to start there because it's easier to start on top. Now watch carefully. Remember I showed you the line that the original stitching made. The side of my zipper. The left side. I want to start right on top of that scene, put my needle in so my needle holds my work in place. I can take out my pin at that point. Why not my raw edges where I cut and the piece that I am putting back on. And I'm going to stitch running the side of my foot right along that stitching line. Since my feet are quarter-inch spaced, it should be falling right in the middle of our cut, which was half inch. And I will show you why it's so important to make sure we are running right along that stitching. Once I get this row of stitching in. Once you get to the next scene, got your pin. Raw edges even, continue sewing running along your stitching line. And since it's such a small stitch just overlap, you don't have to front and back to secure that. Trim these threads up. And I want to show you what we have. That row. A thread should be falling perfectly then so that we can see the top of this where Mark and your original stitching. It's just about an eighth of an inch from that. If you stitch in the correct spot, then that will fall perfectly where we want. Let's take the other leg and do the same. Start at your thickest seen lineup your foot with your stitching. I turn my needle in so that it's holding my work. Run the foot right along. Now we're ready to put our top stitching back into place. Now the reason why we want to keep the seam allowance as small as this way, we don't have to trim it in a separate step. If this is too long, then we have to trim it up. All this has to fit back inside the original ham. I'm going to put my top stitching to the maybe a 3.5 or four, whichever matches up to the original top stitching and the gene. I'm want to fold everything back into place. And this is where a fun part happens. We get to use a hammer because we can see how this is fairly thick. Going to pound this, flatten that out. In our main concern is that when we are putting our top stitching back in the original line, that it's going to catch on the back. In the back still looks nice and neat. We always want our inside work, especially anything that shows does still look neat. I always start on the thickest part. If it's really thick, we're just use the hand wheel. Make sure we don't bust the needle. Now what I'm going to do is make sure that the seam allowance is tucked up inside so that it looks like the original on this side leg, it's smooth. And replace our top stitching. We can see the dark line where it came out of stopped just before we get towards the next where the scenes overlap. Because we're going to want to flatten that out a little bit. Just smoothing that out so it's all falling into place. Nice overlap or stitches, clever threads. That leg is actually done. We can see how it has the same look, but it also looks nice and neat on the inside. Let's do the same with the other leg. Review this. Move our seam allowance up into the original ham. As we get closer, flatten that out, then clip those threads. We would go to the iron gives us a little bit of a precious to steam it out. But you are a year old Gene ham is now complete. 5. Lesson 4: Pant with Cuff: With this panel, we were actually going to do a pant with a cuff. This of course is our finished hem. We're going to mark that first. Now, depending on the width of the cuff is how you're going to determine your next line. We're gonna do our cuff. Let's do inch and a half. Sometimes we will have inch and a quarter cuff. It's a little small for this pen, but let's say inch and a half for this cuff. Let's say by chance that somebody wanted a two-inch cuff, then our next line would be two inches below that. Just that's always going to determine our next line. We're going to go with inch and a half. So we're going to mark inch and a half inch and a half again. About one inch is what's gonna get flipped under. Do the same on this side, inch and a half, inch and a half. And about one inch. As you can see on this particular pant. The finish, our cut line is right where our old Ham was. So we actually don't have to research that. Not too often that happens, but if it does work with it, if we still had more pant, we would actually cut on that line. The only line we need to transfer now to the other side is your second line. We're going to transfer that just like we do all the others. Lipid back. When we do our sewing, you will see how these other lines all work into play. There. Now we have a line, all the lines that we need. To continue on. We can do our next step either at the blind hammer or on the straight stitch machine, will show you on the blind Hammer today. We're at the blind hammer and this is the cuff pant we're working on. We're going to the pants are inside-out. Fold your ham inside so we can see the line that we marked. I always like to start on the front or the back crease. It doesn't matter which one. We're going to start at. Either way, a crease slipping underneath our machine. Now to guide for, I generally use this little piece of metal as my guide. When I have my material folded on the line, I drew, hold the material. The rest here. Fine line. This little piece of metal up along with the surgeon, everything tends to fall into place for me. That's how I'm going to give it a little bit of gas. I always like to look back, check my stitching. I do have a little bit lighter of a stitch in here so you can see make sure it's catching not too tight. And I also like to kinda take a peek on this side to make sure that it's not showing so much. And I can see that it's good. I will show you better once I get all the way around. Folded on the line, we drew line up this piece of metal. With that our search and let the machine do all the work. You can see that I did open up my seem a little bit, see how that flares open just that little bit in its resting smooth. Now I've overlapped my stitches just a little bit. We're going to turn the wheel so that the needle is completely out of your material. Lower your foot to release the pant. And I want you to be able to see, see how when I'm pulling the string, a loop keeps popping up. If we don't cut that loop, the whole stitch will come out. So that's why at this point it's important to cut that loop. And that will finish off. Last time. Let's go to the other leg. Start at a crease. Fold. Line up this piece of metal with our guide, with our search. Hold it on the fold. You can see that when we let the machine do all the work, it actually, we don't have to fuss a lot that way. Let the machine do the work. We're just holding the material open up that seem just a little bit. Join up over where we began. Turn the wheel completely towards you to the needles completely out of the material. Remove your work and clip that loop. Trim any excess threads. Now if the cuff we're ready to go to back to our straight stitch machine where we will press our cuff into place. Where at the straight stitch machine for our cuff pad because at this point we have the ham blind hampton, but now we need to flip up our cuff and we tack that with the straight stitch to hold that into place. So what I'm gonna do at this point is just flipped my coffee cup. We originally wanted an inch and a half is what we had originally marked. So I'm gonna take my ruler marked inch and a half with a small stitch put under the machine. Right in. I'm going right in where my stitching they call that stitch in the ditch when you stitch rate in stitching. So that's why we're going to do a little bit of a tap with a small stitch stitch in the ditch as they say. And I'll show you how that looks on the good side. You can see how I've stitched rate in the stitching in the ditch and it's virtually invisible. Go to your other seem flip this up. Measure that it is half an inch and a half. Whatever desired cuff you are putting in under the machine. We're going to stitch in the ditch and notice that I'm only stitching about half an inch from the fault. We don't need this stitch into the whole seam here. Just a bit of attack to hold that into place. I've only talked about that much. Trim that. And now we'll do I rather like for the back, measure the desired cough. This one happens to be inch and a half stitch in the ditch. And our final scene. And now our cuff is ready to go to the iron for the final pressing, which we'll finish this off. We have our cuffed pants on the table ready The Press. The first thing we wanna do is we want to make sure that this cuff is parallel all the way around. In order to do that, I usually take my narrow tabletop iron board, slip it onto the one end like this NC visually, I can tell I liked the looks of that. It doesn't look like it's wavering. If it was like this. You don't need to be pulling out a ruler just visually. That looks good to you there. I'm using my hand to put a little bit of tension to hold that into place. Put on my cloth. Another reason we want to make sure we use a cloth, especially with some dress pants. Is there polyester? And if we were to press this without the clock, it will start to melt the fibers and act when you get that shine that you see on polyester. See how that looks nice there. Spin that around and do the next bit. Visually. I'm happy with the looks of that. Give it a press. Spin that around. Do the last little bit. Say sometimes I use my clap or sometimes I'll just even just use my hand. The fabrics not that hot that I'm getting burned. Just depends on the mood I'm in. Okay. Who got that on? I'm happy with how that looks. Spin it around. Nice and parallel, give that a press. And the last bit. Now we can move our press board over. And at this point we're going to lay the cuff flat with our seemed over top of each other on the creases that are already in the pant. And now we're going to get a final set. Definitely want to use the clapper on a cough just so that we set it in nice and we get that nice crisp fold on the bottom. You can see how when we pressed it over on the board, it kept in the parallel, but it makes it a little wavy. That's why this final press will set that and smooth it out. Nice, neat finished towns. What we're always looking for. Now, your pants with a cuff is finished. Ready to present to your client. Find yourself another five pairs of pants. Practice, practice, and with every time you practice, you'll become more confident. 6. Lesson 5: Dress Pants Hems: We're going to work on what's generally known as a dress pant ham. All that means is that it's on a pan that's usually dress ear. And generally it's done with a blind HAM, meaning you cannot see any stitching on the good side. Here we have a pair of men's pants. We're going to mark our line. And men's pants generally have at least two, sometimes more inches inside our fold. We're going to draw that. If you get a pair of men's pants from a store and there was actually no hair minutes just searched. It will always be on a dress pant. Doesn't mean they forgot the hem. We're going to transfer our lines. Connect the dots. Now I want to show you another step that we can either do here at the table or sometimes I do this when I'm at the surgery or finishing off the bottom half. You can see when I flip the pant up at the finished ham on the line. Can you see how it is short? This of course, because it's tapered down, the cut edge is actually not as wide as where we're going to be blind humming that up. We want to have a way to open up the seam so that when we're doing our blind hemming, it will actually fit without puckering. Never, never cut rate into the plane materials. You'll see some Taylor's may cut right into the front of the material in the back. Always snip out a scene. You have two sides seams. So I will actually put a little step in, just in through the stitching, just to flare that out. When we search that, we're actually going to keep the flare. I always do both, so we have a little bit on both. And then you can see now, when I flip that up, it opens out just that little bit that we're going to need so that it's going to fit. When the ham is in its new position. We're at the searcher for the men's dress pant. We have our pan inside out. It's always easier to. So when I call inside the ring, whenever we're doing any type of stitching, surging is no exception. I have gray in the machine, so I'm going to search this raw edge, the areas where we trimmed to open up those scenes. Flare that open just a little bit as you're searching. This ensures that our goods side of our surge is on the good side of the pant. And even when it's on the inside, it'll have a nice clean finish. Other leg do the same. And now our dress pant is ready to go to the blind stitch machine. We're at the blind stitch machine for the men's dress pant. Whenever I start a blind HAM, I like to start in the middle with a crease. Here. I just happen to have the front of the pant on the top. We're going to fold or pants the Hammond side onto the line that we drew. Put it under the machine. Make sure our guide is lined up with our surgery, some gas. And we're going to do our first half before I check. So at this point, I always like to check what I've done to make sure that it's catching? Yes, it's catching in all those spots, no skipping. As well as I'm happy with what it looks like on the good side of the material, even though there's tiny little ******. Once that's happened, that will be blind, invisible. As the name implies. Continue on. Hold the material on her fault. You can see how our pant at the same as flaring. We need that to make up this extra space and so there's no puckering. Keep our guide on our searching. Turn the, when we're done, turn the wheel towards you one complete rotation so your needle is up at its highest position. At that point, you can pull out your work and find the loop. We can see that our loop from our work there. And we need to clip that and keep the stitching from coming out. Trim this tail. And let's do the other leg now. Start at a fold. Fold it in place of under the machine, makes sure our guide is lined up with our surging. Hold it in place, hold it straight and let the machine do all the work. Allow your seem to flare open. During complete rotation towards you. Pull your workout where you can see our loop that we need the clip, clip up in a loose tails. And now our men's dress pant is ready to go to the eye or for final pressing. We're pressing our men's dress pant. We have our pants laid back out onto the table with the side seams on top of each other falling into the natural creases. We're going to do our first leg, pull this one out of the way. I want to show you see how this is pulling a little bit in here. That is because that's where we flared out our seam on the inside. We want to make sure we take note of that because there's a little trick we're going to do to smooth that out place are pressing cloth on top. I'm going to show you my trick in just a second. We're going to put our iron here and here. But with my iron here, I want to show you, I'm actually gonna give that a little bit of a pull, pressing with my iron instruction that out. And I'm actually going to do that on this side. Just to give a little bit of a steam. And a poll. Said that with my clapper. This helps to cool it down into set. You're having to place, flip it over. And we're going to do the same on the other side of that leg. And you can see how already That's looking good. Give that a little poll still. I'm applying some pressure with my steam in that leg is done. And you see how the press also has blended in any of the blind stitching so we can't see it. Do our second leg just the same. You can see also, we can still see the lines we drew. The steaming will eliminate those. Give out a bit of a pole. Pole here again. Use our Clapper, flip our leg over and do the other side. And our chalk lines are going also at that point. Now our dress pant ham is finished ready to present to the customer. Grab yourself another five pairs of pants. And with every time you practice, your confidence will grow. 7. Lesson 6: Ladies Dress Pant Lined Pant Hems: Here we have a ladies dress pant. It is done the similar fashion as the men's. We're going to mark the primary difference between a men's dress pants and ladies, ladies hammer on the inside. It's always about inch and a quarter, then you will very rarely see two inches or more in a ladies dress pants. Since my ruler is actually an inch and a half inch and a quarter. I'm going to use that to mark my line. And one thing I want to point out with this pant also, there is actually a lining in here. I'm going to pull the lining up and out of the way for us to do the outer pan. We're going to get that March first and then I will show you how we're going to do the lining. What we wanna do then. This is our cut line. Transfer our lines through to the other legs, connect the dots. You can see that this material, for the ladies, it's a lot more drapey. It tends to move and fluctuate around more than the men's pants. So I want to point something out to you because I noticed it here. So with that in mind, when we're putting in our ham, if you happen to see a bit of a fluctuation from here to your line? When we put our hand in and we go to the blind hammer, we're just going to make sure that that's a nice parallel, parallel seem. We're not gonna go with every little fluctuation, makes sure it's nice and parallel. So at this point we can do our lining. Now that we have our lining pulled all the way down on each pan, we're going to mark this is where our finished him is on the outer pant. If I put a piece a pin through, I'm going to put a mark right where that pin is. So that's the finished hem of the outer material. That is actually where we're going to cut our lining. Therefore, if we cut it there and we have it using a half-inch gene ham or linings always going to be one inch shorter than our finished material. And as you can see, I didn't really mark that. I just went by, I cut straight across. And for the other, I'm actually going to just lie the piece. I just cut off. Use that as a marker and cut straight across my other lighting. So now this will be ready to receive a half-inch tops, the champ. Then the lining is complete. At the surgery, we've turned your dress pants inside out so we can search the raw edge. I always want There's two sides to your surging. One side always looks better, which is your top side. And whenever we search a pant or anything, I always like that surge to show. So when we search our dress pant, I have, this is the good side of the material facing up, which means our goods side of our search stitching will be what shows and I will show you in just a second. I'm going to trim this seam right here. We did that on the men's, just the flare that out a little in case I need that. I'll go a little bit further here. And you can see how that side of the surgeons consider the goods side. It's the most attractive. It is on the outside of the pants. So when it's flipped in, we're going to see that this side is the backside. It's not bad, but it's just a good practice to make sure we're always seeing the good side of our searching. We'll notice that even in manufacturing, they did that. So that when the seams are pressed open, you're seeing the good side of their search, not that side. It's one of those things that it's not going to make or break your project, but it's just a good practice. Keep your seams flat if they're pressed open, open up that seem just a little bit. When you get to where you started, flare that out. And let's grab the other leg and do the same. We want to make sure you're lining doesn't get caught into this. Remember your surgery does have a nice So you don't want any material getting caught underneath and being cut. I'm stepping rate on their stitching. Trim that up. And now this patient is ready to go to the blind hammer to have the finished stitching. Our ladies dress pant is that the blind hammer? We're going to fold back on the line or Hamline we drew start on middle crease under the machine. Because you can see this material is like a little what I call drapey. It shifts a lot. You need to have control of that. See how this now looks perfectly parallel to me. I'm happy with that. I'm just going to hold that in place. Same here. You can see how it looks like. It's varying off my line just a slight bit. Just put the materials what I call shifty. So as long as that looks nice and parallel on the inside, hold it there. Lineup, your guide to your surging flare opener seem a bit because these pants were more tapered than the other dress pants. We did. Run it around. And you can see how that still looks nice and parallel. We just have some small ****** on this side. And once we press that, those will dissipate to turn your wheel one complete rotation toward you. Clip that loop. And let's grab the other leg and do that. Start on a crease. Sometimes with a dress pant. I find if I raise my material up, just helps to hold everything into place. When the more you do this job, you just kinda get a feel for the materials and what's working. Sometimes a little fluctuation like that will help keep your work a little bit more steady. See if we can get this loop. Clip it, drum up any tails. And now we're ready to go to the straight stitch to finish off our ham on or lining. We're at our straight stitch machine. We're going to be finishing off our dress pant by doing the lining and our lining ham is always a half-inch top stitch. We're always going to roll into wards where we see are seem that way on. We're going to have our good finished side towards the client's skin. Once again, I have no lines marked. I know that a half inch top stitch, I'm just going to fold it in half inch, half inch, put it underneath the machine. Anchor. Journey in half-inch, half-inch. Change my thread back. There we go. Half-inch, half-inch at the side seam. I'm happy with the way that looks. Half-inch, half-inch overlap where we began. And we'll do our other lining just the same. Start on a siem since it's lining and it's inside, it doesn't matter which scene we're really starting on. I don't know if this is the inside or the outside seem it's irrelevant because it's lining, it's inside. Let's see how the material pretty much falls into place on its own. Now we're ready to go to the iron for the final pressing of this pant with lighting are lined pad is on the table and ready to be pressed. To remember our line pants, we need to pull out our lining first to press that. We just pull it out of the leg like this. You'll see how that just already it's been pressed when it's come from the manufacturer. Definitely with lining use your press cloth is just a polyester and if you're irons too hot, you don't want to melt. Anything. One leg, pull the other one out flat. You can see with something like aligning, we don't need to use our clapper to flatten it out. It flattens out easily on its own. Now, we're going to take our pants. We're going to press the outside. We want to lay our pants on the table with the side seams on top of each other. I'm actually going to pull our lining a bit out of the way, just so it's not making creases into the bottom of the pant Where we're so now they're aligning, pulled up and out of the way. We're just going to line up or her side seams, pressed this on. I can see the original folds. We're gonna do our little pulling technique. Pull here. The ESOP, give that little poll here, just the flatten that out. Steam user clapper to set that Press. See how nice that looks already. Over. Cross the other side. Set the press with the clapper. Clapper when it cools it down. When I say set it, I always refer to if you happen to ever have curl your hair. Once you've ticked curling iron out, if the curl is still hot and you pull on it, it will actually cause the set to come out. So you have to wait until it cools. That's what we're doing with your pant home. We're making sure that though it's still warm, it's cooling it down so that when we move it around, we're not putting in new creases or releasing the old one. That over. And do our final side. That will pull good steam. Paul. And set. Now are aligned, pant is complete, ready to present to the customer. Rob yourself another five pairs of pants. Practice your ham. And the more you practice, the more confident you'll be. 8. Lesson 7: Shortening Pant Leg by creating a seam: This time we're going to tackle a more complicated type of Pan ham. But my model is everything's easy when you know how this pant ham. It's bit more challenging because there is a zipper at the base as well as we have a cuff. Instead of doing the alteration from the bottom and moving everything up, which will take much more time and much more money than what the client will probably pay. We're actually going to create a seam around the knee area. This way we'll take the extra material out of there. And a lot of athletic pants, which these will be your zippers are in. May have a siem already that we can work with. If it doesn't, we can always put a seam once we've got the top stitching in it and it'll be a nice clean finish. It no one will know that the alteration was then at that point, it'll look like it's meant to be. So let's begin. Now we can see that we've pinned the extra fullness out for our client. We've pinned a fold inch and a quarter. So we're actually going to take 2.5 inches out of the overall length of this pant. I'm going to remove these pins. We can see that on the leg there is a seam on the front. There's actually two detail lines, but we're actually going to use the one by the knee. There is nothing on the back, but that is fine. We're just going to continue this theme all the way around. Before I start chopping up my pant, what I want to do is I actually going to take it out of this area. So I'm going to draw a line straight across on that seam. Because I'm going to want to continue that to the back of the packet. Here we go. And just a note. If you don't have a seem to already work with. One of the things you're going to want to be sure of is when you do cut a pant, if there isn't a design line to go by. You're going to want to make sure that both your cuts on each leg is going to be the same distance from the zipper. Here we're not that concerned about because we do have a design line to work with. But it's always important to make sure that your finish line is going to fall into the same place. So if someone is looking at the pant in relation to the zipper, that one line's not going to be higher or lower than the other. It's gonna be something to take note of. I've got this line drawn here. This is where some of the mathematics come in. We are going to hem the pant, 2.5 inches is what I had said. Internal quarter is our halfway. But we must keep in mind also that we need to have seam allowances in that. So if we're going to have a total of 2.5 inches, we actually want to make sure our actual piece we're cutting out will only be an inch and a half because we're going to have half inch seam allowances. We'll go over that with the other leg too. So I want you to know exactly where I am going to be cutting. Right here. And right here. The actual piece we're cutting out is inch and a half. Once we add the half inch seam allowances to join the piece back together, that eliminates our total 2.5 inches. Can be a little confusing at first. I'm going to cut here. I'm going to cut here. There we go. I want to make sure I get past that inch and a half is coming out. Once I rejoined this half-inch to that half inch, we've eliminated 2.5. That's the total that's coming out. What I'm going to do is take this leg and I want to pin it to the other bottom. And we're gonna do the same to the other leg. This one I'm going to mark from the front side. This is our design line. This is where we're going to center our cut. Transfer that to the back. I'm going to draw this one on the front side so we can see half of 2.5 as inch and a quarter. This is the total we actually want to take out. But we do need seam allowances when we re so the pants back together. So this is where we're actually going to cut. And remove that piece. You can see with this extra stitching on here, I want to make sure that that's eliminated once we do our sewing. If there's any other design lines like that, we want to make sure it's a clean finished, that the overall product looks like it's meant to be. We've removed inch and a half. And with our seam allowances when everything is joined backup, we will have eliminated 2.5 inches. Okay, so now we have to put the puzzle back together. Our main concerns with this puzzle. We're going to want to make sure that this center stitching is lined up this side seam because it is actually top stitched. The inside seam is just a regular sewing and search. So we have a bit more flexibility with that for lining up. At this point, I'm going to undo the inside seen a little bit. And this seem that the bottom part we chopped off. This is definitely one of those jobs. You're going to want to make sure you have a pair to plaque practice with. You'll feel more competent shopping someone else's pants when you've know you're secure with this? They're there. Okay. Since this center seam is top stitched, what I'm going to do, the distance from my side seam to the center top stitching. You can see because we cut out a piece and the patient is a tapered, we can see that this does not line up perfectly, but we can adjust that. This is just decorative top stitching. So what I'm going to do is undo this a little bit at the top portion. Okay. We will replace that after we get everything stolen together. Because if we need to I'm just doing the top. Once the side seams are joined. If I need, I can repress and re stitch and blend my center top stitching to line up with that. Next thing we want to do is we're actually going to put these pieces back together. And our main area of lining up is going to be the top stitching on the outside seam of the pant. Stay with me here. Once I do it, you'll see I can do my zipper to give me more room. I'll just leave that. Turn this inside out so we can put right sides together. And I have this. You can see the top stitching on the outside scene. I'm going to line that up with the top stitching on the outside seam on the bottom portion of the pant. We're going to make sure that's lined up. Put a pin in there. Then we're just going to line up the rest of our scene. And you can see how at this point, the original stitching from the center does not line up with the top here. But that's why we took that out. We're going to blend that once the two pieces are together. You'll see also that when we line this up, the side seams don't line up perfectly and that's because the two pieces being tapered, We cut out a chunk of the puzzle. So at this point, the bottom piece is actually skinnier than the top piece. But we are going to blend that when we close up the inside scene. Let's go back to finished pinning this here. I'm going to continue painting the two seams together. See where we're at here. I see. When I do my sewing machine, we will be sewing with the white once again, this way you can see exactly where I'm doing my sewing. Let's do the other leg, get it pinned in place. We're going to open up a little bit of the inside seam where our cuts are. Here the inside scene. I did remove a little bit of the top stitching from the center plate. There we go. Turn this inside out so we can put right sides together. We went to line up our outside seams. Make sure those are lined up nicely. Put a pin through, continue it over to each of the sides. Okay. At this point we're going to go to the sewing machine and I'll show you all the steps that we need to complete this. At the sewing machine. We have the pant inside out. We want to. So what we're doing is we're putting the top to the bottom back together. Smooth out. You're seeing half inch seam allowance. Start at the insight. The insight seem. Make sure the raw edges are even. Just sewing a half inch seam allowance. Make sure you leave your pin in where the outside seam lines up. That way it doesn't shift and we always make sure that's going to be lined up. You can see I've sewn in the white granitic, the other pant leg do the same. When I pull that down, you can see that we've joined the top portion back with the bottom portion of the leg. We're going to go to the surgery so that we can clean up this edge with a search. Then we're going to do a top stitch to hold it down and that will give it that clean finished that a lot of sports pants have to finish off that type of seems so it doesn't look like we just chopped off and created a scene. So let's go to the surgery so that we can clean up this scene. We're at the searcher. I generally like to press this scene when all is said and done to the top. So when I search, I want to make sure that the good side of the surging is facing up. So with that in mind, I want to have the bottom part of my pant facing up this way. When the seam is done, the clean part of the surging will be on the top and I'll press that up and stitch that. It's one of those little tips that if we had it the other way, the world is not going to come to an end, but it just gives for a cleaner finish when the complete job is done. Shave that off. Now we're back at the machine to press up the seam to do our top stitching. And we're going to close up the inside leg which we opened to help us assist us in our work. We're back at the straight stitch machine. Our next step is we're going to want to press the seam we just created up to the top and secure it with a small as a straight stitch. It's going to just be like 1 eighth of an inch from our scene. So I'm going to inside one of the legs. If this side seam is opened enough, you can work through that. Or actually you know what, I'm just going to open that up a little bit more. You'll find it'll be a little easier to do that stitching if we open this up a bit, as opposed to trying to do our work through the top of the pan. There we go. Spitting this around, since we have that open now, I'm going to press the seam to the top of the pant. Position that under the machine. I'll begin my edge stitching. Folding the same in the direction I want it to go. And I'm just working within the hole that I created on the side seam. Just making sure that nothing is getting pinched underneath. It doesn't need to be under there. You can see the edge there, trends coming along nicely. See how nicely that's turned out. The outside seem as nicely lined up. We have edge stitching, holding up the seam allowance on the inside and giving it a good clean finish. What you'll notice now though, is our center front stitching is not lined up. Remember we took out some of the stitching that was holding this crease in place. This is where I'm going to blend that now. I'm going to take the central scene from the bottom and I'm just going to put a new top stitch in there and blend that rate through. You'll see how easy this is. Something doesn't line up, we make it line up. We'll make sure that it's lying flat there. Of course it's in the contrast in color, but you can see now how we lined up that center top stitching. And when the project has completely done, we'll go to the iron and we'll press out that old crease. Our last step is we need to go inside and close up the opening. Turn your work inside out. Let's clean up some of this extra strings. You'll notice also the top of the pan with a little wider than the bottom half. We're just gonna do a gradual blend. The top line, nice and flat. And I'm actually going to just reset on that line so that we blend it to the bottom of the plant. Generally, we'd go back to the surgery, clean this off with a nice clean search. I want to turn this right side out so I can show you are finished work. We always want to give him a press after just to give it that finished look. I want to show you how nice this turned out, even on the inside C. That's our inside seem. Close that up, lines up nicely. And technically this job would be done. We'd go to the iron, like I said, Give it a press to get out any old lines. But at that point, this alteration is complete. 9. Lesson 8: Coverstitch Yoga Hem: Here we have what's commonly known as yoga pants. A lot of athletic aware has this type of finish. We're going to be making this a few inches shorter for the client. We of course are going to mark this just the same as we do our other hams straight across. But generally with a yoga, you will want to have about one inch on the inside. So we do want to measure that one inch that we're going to flip inside. With a yoga or athletic wear. How we are going to mark our line to each of the legs. Because this type of ham, we really need to be able to see that line. While we're doing the ham. When we get to the machine, you will see why the importances of that line transfer. Like we do flip it over and then we have the yoga pant ready to go to the machine. Now we're at the cover stitch, which is the machine where we are going to replace the hammer on our yoga pants. A lot of athletic where there's a quite a difference with the cover stitch. On other machines when we are doing a ham of sorts, we fold our Hamon. But we usually would have that side up to do our work and our good stitching will be on the back like when we're doing a blind HAM. It's we fooled our work inside and we're working from the inside. If we're doing a top stitch when we do the same and this is our goods side with a cover stitch. We're folding our work in. But we're actually sort of sewing, sort of blind that's folded on our line. We do remember we marked that one inch. This here is our one-inch fold guide. We have our presser foot up and I've already changed my threads. The thread, it's a little bit lighter than what I normally would use because I want you to be able to see where the stitching is going. We put her foot down. I have the folds of the fabric running along my one-inch line. I'm going to show you underneath what this looks like. What I'm aiming for. If all has worked out, we've drawn our line properly, we've got it on refold. This raw edge will run and fall anywhere between these two needles which we'll catch and cover that raw edge. Sometimes more we'll pick out or last, but all in all, you will see in the end how it's still going to turn out to be a good quality finished product. But let's just get started and show you how this works. So it's folded. I'm happy with where it's falling. It's ready to go lined up on my one-inch guide. Let's give it some gas. Now let's stop here. You can see how we have the two parallel rows beginning. Gonna take a quick peek on the inside just to make sure that it's catching on the inside and it's catching, well, I'm happy with that. Now, let's take another piece of material folded on the line that we drew. Lay it flat. Make sure the foot is lined up with my one-inch guide. You can see it's falling nicely where my needles are going to be. Hold it straight and let the machine do the work. Same thing here. Fool that once again on my line. Sometimes when we're going over a seam, we want to give it a little bit of a help when it's going through the needles, it just helps to push it through. Folded line it up. And we are going to overlap our stitching about one inch. To stop on a blind stitch meats or the cover stitch. We turn the wheel backwards, one complete rotation. We lift up the presser foot. On this particular machine rereleased are tensions by using these knobs here. Push them off to this side, which loosens the top tension so that we can pull our thread. But I always make sure I hold my threads. The reason we do that is if I was to pull this thread here, all my stitching would come out and we don't want that to happen right now. Go to the inside. Let's clip those threads first. The underside ones. Flip it over, pull up on the two, these two. And then the two we just stopped with. Pull those up. Our primary objective is that when we look at it from the good side, it looks parallel. No one's gonna be rough pulling out any rulers on you. If there is some slight variances. It's not going to be noticed. As a rule of thumb. If you're looking at your hand and you think to yourself, does that look too wavy? Will somebody notice that generally they might then redo it to where you're happy. But otherwise that is our finished. Here. On the inside. Take note how it's perfect here. It's covering the edge, but it's peaking out the raw edges, picking up just a little bit there, a little bit there. And a little bit there. That's not a problem. That could just be from when we cut with her scissors. Our main objective is to make sure that it's even on the line that we drew. All in all that looks good. Let's get our other one. Same thing. I'm going to reduce like to start on the inside because remember, we are overlapping our stitches. To begin an end in this way that is on the inside. Turn it inside. The ham, lie it flat, good side up. Put it under the machine so that the fold is on our one-inch line. I do a couple of stitches to hold that. Flipper him under, making sure that that is running on our fold. The sunder, smooth it out. We used to do this type of ham by searching and doing a double row of top stitching in the past. The problem with that is when you're doing any type of top stitching, it doesn't stretch. This machine has the stretch factor. It's a nice-looking how you'll use it on pants, you'll see it on many dresses. And Thompson jackets has a very nice finished, but it also makes sure that no other stitches are breaking. The two needles always guarantee a parallel double row of top stitching. When you're doing that with a straight stitch, it's virtually impossible to get that perfect parallel. Turn the machine one complete rotation backwards. When the few times we ever do, lift up the foot, release your tension, pull your threads to get it out from under your foot. Trim the two inside strings first, don't pull them too hard, otherwise you can see how your stitching will all come out. Not something we want. Trim these. And now your yoga pant is ready for final press. We're at the press table finishing off our yoga ham. I always like to use a press cloth. Some people don't. I just don't like risking my industrial iron can get very hot. I just like to use the press cloth for security reasons. Use some steam. I use my clapper to flatten it out and cool it down a bit. The yoga pant, you can see that I've also flipped it pretty much from the side seam to side seam on dress pants away. We'll fold it on the crease which you'll see. But on a yoga pant or any pant that is more casual, press it on the side seams. See how also the steam is taking away our chalk mark and how that gives it a nice Press. Use the clapper, just the cool it down and hold the press. Grab our other leg and do the same. Some people don't press. You can see the difference. How much nicer it looks when it is pressed. We don't want to have that rolled him a little bit of steam and pressure. Flip it over and do the other side. This way, we're making sure all our chalk marks are dissipating also. Now our yoga pant is complete and ready to present to the customer. Now find yourself another five pair of pants. And with every time your practice, your confidence will grow. 10. Lesson 9: Basic Pant Hems One Inch Topstitch: With a one-inch top stitch. Basically, what that means is our finished top stitching is one inch from the finished ham. We do the same process, the half-inch, but I want to show you something first. This is actually where we're going to do this pant. It's the finished him, this is where our customer needs it. But I want to show you a little tip. Let's say the finished Ham was only one inch they want it, this happened just one inch. That's where it's going to be right there. We're obviously going to take out the old ham. But I want you to use the markings on the panel to assist you. You don't want somebody have to draw any new lines. If this is where we were going to do, our hem, are finished him. We're going to fold it under our first fold. We could actually trim right here and fold that under one-inch using the old stitching line as a guide. And we will have our finished him there. What's good about that technique also is because you can't get rid of all those holes. With that being at the very bottom of your ham saves you marking, but also eliminates those holes. So that's just the tip that you can always use. If someone wants this, have just the one inch which is equals the width of the hill. We're actually going to go though and do our marking where our customer needs it. Whenever we do a one-inch top stitch, we will mark all our lines. One-inch top stitch, we're going to leave two inches inside. So I'm going to mark two inches. Two inches. Connect the dots. And this is our cut line. Any other top stitching that's more than your half-inch. I always draw my line this way. We always have a guide. The half inches easy enough to do without align this one. I don't like leaving the chance. So we flipped back our little corners of her pant to transfer our finished him connect the dots. And now this patient is ready to go to the straight stitch machine to be behind with our one-inch top stitch. Remember we did draw our line all the way around. Start on the inside. Seen this patient is light enough that we don't have to be thinning out. Our Seems like we did with the genes. What we're going to do is take our him, enroll it or one-inch sort of feeling with your hand that the cut edge is on your finished line. You're basically you're folding it in half and then folding it over. That's our one-inch put it under the machine, needle into hold. Then we're going to take grew up to her our next quarter. And I'm feeling with my hand that the cut edge is rate at my fault. So that's one inch. And you can see how we manipulate that a little bit with our hands just to smooth that out and let the machine do all the work. We're going to stitch about an eighth of an inch from the fall like we did with the half-inch, which you can see now, how that's giving us a one-inch top stitch there. We're going to move to the next quarter. The same feel with your hand. I can feel the cut edge is right at my mark. It looks good to me, it looks parallel. That's important. And so to the next scene. Now we're going to the next crease. Smooth that out, looks parallel to me. Let the machine do all the work. And so to the next scene. And we're already where we began. Overlap a little. Check that out. I use a thread slightly darker than the actual color of the pan. So you can see a bit more clear where our line is. C, That is our new one inch top stitch. I'm going to do the other leg fold in one inch. The raw edge at our line that we marked under the machine. Needle into anchor. Fold up. Raw edge to the line, looks parallel. And so you can see how quickly these hams come together. When done in these steps, we make it as simple as possible. Tremor threads. And now this ham is ready to go to the iron for our final pressing. That's a one-inch top stitch. Our one-inch top stitches on the board ready to be pressed. We have line this up with our side seams together folded on the creases as you see here. Sometimes you'll notice it doesn't even have creases. If there's no creases in it, then don't continue The Press creases then just if there is, we don't want to give ourselves any more work than what we need. We're lying this out. We're going to put our press cloth on top. You can see how puffy this is without pressing, we want to make sure that's nice and flat and crisp. Put our iron on there. We're going to lift that up. I'm gonna give that a little bit of a pull to smooth that out. Same on this side. These are clapper to flatten it out and cool down the ham. Flip it over to the other side. Given a good Press user a clapper, you can see how nice and smooth that is now compared to when we started. Do the other leg. To get any additional strings on your client's clothing. Always make sure you pull them off. Lift up and pull just so we flatten that out, nice. Flatten that out, cool it down. The other side. This is also causing all our chalk mark to disappear. And we're finished our one-inch top stitch. Him is now ready to present to the customer. Find yourself another five pair continue practicing and you're, as much as you practice, your confidence will grow. 11. Lesson 10: Basic Pant Hems Half Inch Jean Topstitch: This segment is on half-inch top stitch slash gene hams. The reason we interchange gene and top stitch. It's usually because the terms can be used interchangeably. Some people will just refer to any half-inch top stitch as a gene ham. The half-inch refers to the distance that the top stitching is from the bottom of the pant. When we say gene Hamwi, generally a picture pair of jeans with some contrasting thread. But in this segment we're also going to show you a pair of pants that actually has the same color of thread, but we're going to use the same half-inch top stitching to finish the ham. This gene here we, this is going to be our new finished him. Lineup are pant legs. Make sure they're even. Draw a line across. Where are our new ham is. So therefore, if we're doing a half-inch, we need to leave one inch below our finished. That's where we're going to cut. And this is the material that's going to be turned on under on this pan. I'm going to show you that I am going to transfer my finished line to the other legs by just placing, flipping up the pan ham, marking where our finishes. Flip the pan over. Now we can connect the dots and we are going to mark the other side. Now this pan is ready to be, so we're going to mark this pan to scrub hand for the same ham, the half-inch top stitch. I'm going but I'm not going to mark my one-inch below. After a while you just begin to I it up. And another tip. When I do, I won't even transfer these marks back onto here. After a while, you're going to get so good at doing the half inch that you won't even need those marks. If anyone in my staff were to pick up this pad home because there's no marks on it. They will know automatically that it's a half-inch top stitch. Just saves a little bit of time and it's just one of those hemes we do so much of that. We don't necessarily have to have an added step of marking it every time. Now we're gonna go to the machine and do our sewing. Before we begin our gene ham. Gene hams tend to be really thick, so we're going to thin out our seams within our ham. About inch and a quarter from your cut edge. This same we're just going to trim. On a gene. There's typically a seam that is flat felled, which is double top stitched, and a seam that is done with a regular interlock and searched. So we just trim the interlock in search scene. To thin out the flat file scene. We're going to have the role of the inter, of the flat fell on the top. Take our scissors and we want to just make sure we're cutting the flat file that's on the the interlock that's on the flat file. Make sure we don't cut into the back of the pan itself. And when we cut that off there, it's actually going to allow us to pull out the last piece. Because we're going to be rolling this twice. It just makes this a little thinner. So it's not so thick to go through. It's a very thick area. We can actually trim that up a little bit more if we want it there to do the same with the other. About an inch and a quarter from the cut edge, cut through the fold and that interlocks touching on the flat file seem pull that little piece out. And we can trim that down even a little bit more. And this scene, we just need to trim this closer to the stitching. And that has thin that out. When we go to the sewing machine, we always start on the inside of the path. With that facing down. That's gonna be our first seem that for when we do our overlapping, it's going to be on the inside of the leg. It won't be as noticeable. We do have a line on this path, so we're going to flip the raw edge in so that it's touching our line. We start right on top of the scene, but an eighth of an inch from the fold. Put your needle in. So it's helping to anchor your work. Fallen half-inch, half-inch. And we can also use the line that we drew as a guy. At this point. I can see that it's perfectly parallel. I'm just going to give it some gas and let the machine pull it in a straight line. I've got the needle left in. I always like to leave my needle in because when I'm repositioning my work that's going to help anchor the works. It doesn't come out halfway through the front or the back. Bold in another half inch, half inch. Smooth that out. That looks good to me. Now I'm going to continue my stitching about an eighth of an inch from the fall. Just like the machine do the work, you just hold your work straightened is automatically going to guide it. Half-inch. Half-inch. I can see that it's on the line that I drew. And now we're going to finish off by overlapping where we began about an inch. Take her workout clipper or threads. And you can see we have one leg. So flip the pant over. Start on the inside. Same half-inch. Half-inch. Start right on top of that scene. Looks good. Let the machine do all the work. Our next scene, we run in about quarters. You're only gonna get like one-quarter of the way reposition. Do the next quarter. And now our half-inch gene hem is ready to be pressed. Variation of the half inch top stitch gene that we just did. This is just known as a half-inch top stitch. All that means is that when all is said and done in the Ham has finished, you'll see the top stitching on the good side. But with this particular path, we aren't going to use a contrasting thread. We're using the same color as the pant itself. We're going to start on the inside, same as we always do with this path because it's really light, It's a scrub. We don t have to thin out any seams. And if you can remember, I didn't mark any lines on this panel. I don't necessarily need to be to mark my line when I'm doing a half-inch. No one's pulling out a ruler. It's just a visual that's half inch. If it happens to be half inch and 1 16th, it's not going to make a difference in your finished product. Spool in half-inch, half-inch. Put it under the machine on the scene, put your needle in so it's holding your work. Take her pant folded and another half-inch, half-inch pretty much falls into place on its own. And I'm just going to let the machine do all the work like we did on the other half-inch, half-inch. Looks parallel. They'll do enough of these hams that you won't even have to be marketing and I'm just cut himself. Overlap where you began about an inch, secures your stitches and trim. There we go. And you can see a nice finish. I'm going to do the other leg starting on the inside, same half-inch, half-inch needle in to hold your work. Half-inch, half-inch. I say this a lot in my head all the time. Trim your threads. And this patient is ready to go to the press table for final press. R gene ham is on the table and ready to be pressed. I want it to show you how there are really no center Cresus. So because there's no central creases, we're not going to press those in. Notice how the paint just tends to fold, where the client probably how they had the pant folded. We're just going to keep that that way. Not going to add any new folder. Just however if it wants to fall into that way, That's how we're going to press it. Use our press cloth. Lots of steam, especially for genes. It's thick and heavy so we want to make sure we're getting right through all the fibers. Use your clapper to flatten and smooth that out. Cool it down. To the other side. Cool it down. Grab your last leg. This is how the fold is. I'm just going to keep it in that fall. Which lay notes, I'm gonna do it this way. Lots of steam. We're getting rid of all our chalk lines also. Now our gene ham is finished. Ready to present to your client. Now grab yourself another five pairs of pants. Practice and with every time you practice, your confidence will grow. Our half-inch top stitch is on the table and ready for its final pressing. We can see here, I want you to notice how it looks like whoever had these pants did at some point try to put a center crease in here. So when we're going to press this, I'm actually going to line up my center seems the side seams here and put that crease back. But I'm going to try and do it a little straighter than what they had. Press cloth over top. Given a little bit of a press. Being that it's a lighter material, we don't need to add as much steam. It's going to fall into place a little easier. Press cloth. Second leg, the final side. And we're finished. Our half-inch top stitch is complete, ready to present to the customer. Now find yourself another five pairs of pants. Try it again. And the more you practice, the more your confidence will grow.