Transcripts
1. Intro.: Hey, you. Yeah, you. Have you ever looked at a piece of dirt and
paged to yourself? How does that turn into a mob? Well, let's find out together. Whether you're here
to touch clay for the first time or refine
your skills as a potter, I'm gonna teach you
how to turn this into this and this into this. The beautiful thing
about it is that you're only going to need five tools. And if you don't have
access to a pottery wheel, maybe wait until the
end of the video, you're gonna get
inspired to get one or join your local co
working pottery space. I'll see you on the
next videos, and maybe. Just maybe I'll teach you by secret technique of the
bunny kissing the snake.
2. The Perfect Start: Hey, good to see you again. Before we jump right in, let me share with you
my pottery motto. At the beginning, your
pieces are going to be a little more dancy
than anything else. So just grab a candle, stick it on there
and call it a day. Every masterpiece starts
with a strong foundation. So here's how to prep
your clay and make sure your very first steps are very
solid. Let's get into it. From all of your foundations, I consider wedging to be the most important
part of them all, because it's when
you're prepping your igluo to be
ready for the wheel. And the way you prep
your clay is by holding your hands on
the sides like karate. And what you want to do
is hold onto the clay, raise it, twist it,
and squeeze it. I'll do it with one hand in a little bit till
you can see it, but the movement looks
a little bit like this. I'm using more of my palms
and the movement of my wrist to twist the clay and create
these small foldings. The purpose of these
small foldings is to remove all of the air
trapped on the inside. I am not turning it
around or sideways. I'm simply holding on to that very bottom which
I never pick up, and I wedge and I
wedge and I wedge. The reason I'm holding
it on the sides is so it doesn't
grow like a sausage. So you cannot have
your hands up here. You need to have
them on the sides. I'm going to do it with one
hand so you can see it. It's wrong, but this is how you would do it if you
would have two hands. So raise, twist,
and squeeze, raise, twist and squeeze and
again and again and again. You want to do this
for around 40 times. And when you reach 40, you will join all of
this by squeezing everything together,
little by little. Once it's all together,
you can stand it up, give it a flat surface, and make it as
symmetrical as possible. AKA, the igloo. We now have our igloo ready, and we're ready to attach
it onto the wheel. What you want to do first is
get the metal humidified. Be very careful
with the humidity because if you put
too much water, the clay is going
to slide right out. To attach the clay, you're going to grab the
flat bottom and throw it. It doesn't matter if it lands or doesn't
land on the center. In theory, you shouldn't
be able to pick it up, but you should be able to
spin it to the center. Once it's in the center
to secure it in place, you're going to wedge the
edges onto the metal. For now, you don't need
to use any excess water. If you do things dry,
that's even better. On your very first experiences, you're probably going to
want to have a medium speed, which is around here and leave it for the
entire experience. Right now, my piece is
dancing a little bachata. It's a little bit wobbly, and your goal is to make it
as symmetrical as possible. In pottery, we call
that centering. There's 1 million
ways of doing this, but the way that I do
it is by grabbing onto some water and
squeezing some water onto my clay so it doesn't
stick to my hands, and I will squeeze the
top with my left as if I'm trying to make the top of the igloo symmetrical
in this section here. And with my right hand, I will squeeze on the sides to make that section of
my igloo symmetrical. In theory, the correct way of
doing this is by squeezing the top with your left and
the right on the side. Let me say that one more time. The correct way of doing this is squeezing the top with your left and the right on the side. For now, I'm whitening my fingers so you can see
it and appreciate it. But the real technique is
with your hands closed. So you're hugging the piece. Centering is one
of the things that takes the most amount
of time to learn. So don't beat yourself up. If it's wobbly, that's okay. If you drank some
coffee and you can't center it perfect,
that's also okay. When you have it as
symmetrical as possible, you're going to get
your two thumbs wet. You're going to
point them together, and you're gonna raise them until the nails are
touching each other. And that's when you can
come from the top and start to make the initial
hole of your piece. This is going to be the
inside of your mug, so don't reach all the way down. When you're doing the hole, you want to leave
around that much space between the metal and the clay. You need a base. If you see the metal,
you've gone too far. Make the piece wider so it can fit a little
bit more coffee, not just an espresso. You're going to bring
your left hand forward, and you're going to
bring these two fingers down like rock 'n
roll or Spider Man, whatever is easier for you. Those two fingers go
inside of the piece, and only with the
tips of your fingers, you're going to
push towards you. Or towards the right.
Both work out. If stings start to wobble or to move side to
side, that's okay. To make it taller, I'm going
to bring my right hand. With my palm, I'm
going to squeeze in, and then I'm going
to go upwards. Maintaining a little bit of
pressure from the inside. And roughly, these are
the basics of pottery. What we've done to do
a recap is wedging, making an igloo, attaching the igloo onto the
metal of the wheel, wedging the sides to secure
it in place, centering it, which is making it symmetrical, opening a hole with the thumbs, widening it, and making
your first rough cylinder. Digest everything and
we watch the video as many times as you need
because on the next video, we're going to get a
little bit more advanced and teach you a little
bit about the bunny, kissing the snake and a new
way to center your piece.
3. Centered and Ready: Hey, feeling lately like
you and the Clay Uh, uh, uh, wrestling a little bit. Well, that's normal. Let me give you some more
advanced techniques, and maybe take it
to that next level. One of the most
important factors does not have to do
anything with the clay. It has to do something
with your body. So when you're sitting, try to bring your chair
all the way forward. Have your knees very strong because all of the
power of how you move clay in this stability is gonna come from your
elbows on your knees. I'm not going to bore you with
all the details on how to attach the igl because you
already know how to do that. But instead of wedging the edges onto the
metal like this, you can also leave
your finger on the top and spin the wheel
with your other hand, and it's going to get
attached very nicely. We're going to turn on the
wheel to the same speed, and remember, for now, let's keep the same speed throughout the
entire experience. Later on, we're
going to dive into a little bit more
specifics on the speed. Sometimes centering can
be quite difficult. So there are some tips
and tricks that you can use to make your experience
a little bit easier, and this is called coning, and it goes something like this. You have to squeeze the
very bottom until you have something like a
mushroom shape on the top. And here, your pinkies play a very important
role because you're not just pushing
towards the inside, you're also pushing down to not abandon any clay behind you. After you have that little
ball of a mushroom, you're going to try to
bring it up into a cone. A little bit like this. I'm using my pinkies
to go down and in, and then I'm using
my palms to go up. Bear in mind, I'm
opening my fingers so you can see a little
bit more of the action. But if you can hug the piece, that's probably going
to be a lot better. To bring it back down,
we're going to go to the original
way of centering, which is your left hand
squeezing the top, and your right hand
is gonna squeeze the side to receive
the rest of the clay. I'm going to stop here
for just a moment so you can see it coming. If I would continue
just with my left, this would come out
into a mushroom. So it's very important
for your right hand to receive that clay and
bring it all the way down. Pinkies play an important role. So you're gonna hold on with
your pinkies at the end, and you release with love. And your piece is centered. Once you're happy with
the symmetry, again, thumbs together, nail with nail, and you're gonna make a
hole through the top. Cing is not just
about centering. Cing is also getting your clay into a rounded
structure within your clay, which will help
you in the future. We're gonna rock and roll
again or Spider Man, and we're going to
widen our clay. Join the palm, go in and then go up gently with a little bit of
pressure on the inside. And now very important, you're going to release the
pressure when you get to the rim because in pottery, you need a thicker rim even walls in a wider
and thicker base, and that's a good cylinder. Now, for the moment
you've all been waiting for the bunny
kissing the snake. This is the bunny
kissing the snake. With this movement,
getting used to them kissing in any
direction or any angle, you're going to become
a professional. So, the bunny is gonna
now bite on the piece, and the snake is going to
come right behind the bun. The snake is gonna bite
the bottom of the piece, collect a little bit of clay, and you're going
to gently move all the way up very, very slowly. Once you reach the rim, they're about to kiss. So you release the pressure, you keep going up, and
they end up kissing. I hope you enjoyed all the
techniques we just learned, and I'm very excited because
now we're starting to have a little bit of a feel of what
the pottery wheel is like. And now on the next
videos, I don't know. Maybe we're going to make
our very first shape.
4. Pulling Techniques for the Perfect Cylinder: Now that you understand the
basics of the pottery, well, we can start to have some fun
with the shapes and sizes, wait, be a little bit patient. We're one step closer, ladies and gentlemen to
selling at our local markets. Now that we're diving
into the shapes, there's something
very important for you to know, and that is speed. You are now going to start
to bring the speed to be a little bit slower to take
your time, to be patient. Now that it's slower,
you're going to now again rock and roll
and fingers inside. Once you reach the
bottom that you created, I'm going to mimic
what I'm going to do on the inside on the outside. So I'm going to
bring my hands in, and with the tips of my fingers, I'm going to start
to pull out and up. And I'm going to tell my
clay what shape to take. For example, if I
go on the inside and I squeeze with the inside
and I go on a vertical, my mug is going
to look vertical. If I do it round, the shape is going to be round. For now, we're going to
do vertical and round. Then we're gonna get a
little more complicated. So again, I'm going to
bring my fingers in, hold with the outside, and I'm going to go in a
diagonal torch the top. Again, very slowly. I hope you can appreciate
how the clay is widening up. And you always, always, always release a little bit
of the pressure when you get to the rim because you always want to keep
that rim nice. And thick. If something
is not looking right or there's pieces of clay stuck to any
part of your piece, you can always come with your sponge and smooth
everything out. We're now going to make the
variation of making it round. So before I put the bunny on the inside and
the snake on the outside, and I went on a diagonal. Now, the bunny is going to
do a twist so the piece turns round and then they're gonna end up
kissing at the end again. So bunny kisses the piece. I push on the inside, bottom, and then I start to
go up in a rounded figure. It's okay if it starts
moving from now. I end in the ring and I
release the pressure. This little base on the
bottom is crucial to hold the shape and the
movements we do on the top, but it's not crucial for us to enjoy a cup of
coffee later on. So if you want to
remove it, you can use any tool that has any
angle or shape you want. You can even use a
spoon from your house. You don't have to buy anything. I like to use this piece
of wood to then come on the outside with the point and the flat side looking
towards the piece, and I get a little bit
closer little by little. If I start to collect
clay with my tool, I have to remove it
and then continue. Remove it and continue. From all the residue, you turn off your wheel and
you remove it all manually. I grab my sponge
to make it smooth. Your very first shape is done, and like we talked
about in Video one, put a big puddle of
water in front of your piece, and with your wire, you're going to bring that water under the piece and cut
it at the same time. Your goal is to be able to hug your piece and slide it out without changing
much of the shape. I catch it and you
have your first shape. Now that you're mastering
how to shape a piece, you can already start to fill up your parents' house with bowls, cups, vases, and whatnot. I'll see you on
the next video to start making some funky shapes.
5. Sassy Shapes and Funky Mugs: Cops, bowls, funky shapes. Am I right? Are
you tired of Ikea? Because I am. Let's
start to learn maybe how to create
some funky shapes, fill up your house
with some fun decor or just the tableware
in general. Before we start to get
into very stylist shapes, let's talk cylinders for a second to make sure
we're on the right page. When you have a cylinder, it's very important
that the bottom, the base is thicker and wider than the rest
of the cylinder. That this middle
section is fairly similar in thickness
and that the top, the border is thicker than
the rest of the walls. In order to correct the top, you have to use this tool, which is the pottery needle to correct the top
and then compress it. The right technique is to
do it from belly to piece. I'm going to do it on
this side just so you can enjoy the experience
a little bit better. But the technique is to come with your needle very slowly, and that's the key and
with a lot of patience. And you always want to cut a little bit more than
you think you want to cut because most
people want to cut the least amount possible. You go in slowly, and when
you see it on the other side, you raise the tool and get
the little excess off. To tidy this up and
make it thicker, you're going to grab the bunny and the bunny is going
to bite on the top. And either with the karate
chop or with one finger, you're going to compress by
pressing down a little bit. The reason you're
holding with the bunny is so it doesn't turn
into a mushroom. Alright, now that
we have that setup, we can start going
into funky shapes. In the last video, we
talked about pushing from the inside with the tips
of your fingers outwards. Sometimes the bunny pushes, sometimes the snake pushes. Before we talked
about the bunny, being able to push
in a diagonal onto a rounded shape while the
snake holds on the outside. Now you can have a little bit of game on who pushes where. What we're going to
try to do now is have the bunny push
to the outside. And as I go up, the snake
pushes to the inside. As I go up, the bunny pushes
to the outside and so on to create a funky
squiggly shape. So let's begin. The bunny
bites on the piece, and the snake is on
the outside holding. And what I'm gonna do is push
the bottom with the bunny, go up, twist the snake
and push with the snake. Go up. Now, the
bunny is pushing. I go up. The snake is pushing and continue
all the way up. Let's do that one more
time to exaggerate. The bunny will begin to push
on the bottom to go out. As I go taller, the snake is gonna push in. Taller, the bunny pushes out. Taller, the snake pushes in and we have our
squiggly form. If you want it to be a
little more dominant, you can come with the
little crap technique to hold on to the bottom, go higher without pushing and only push on
those little ridges. You go higher, and you push. And that's how you bring clay
to come onto the inside. Again, I compress the top. I come with my piece of wood. And now, instead of coming from the outside to
remove the excess, you can actually come
from the top and cut at an angle
directly through. No need to stop the wheel. Now that you're a professional, you can have it spin and
remove it right with the tool. Grab my sponge, take out all the excess I don't
want, make it smooth, turn off my wheel, put
a big pot on the water, bring that water under
the piece with my wire. And remove it by gently
spinning it out of place. Well, it's not moving. Grab some water,
grab onto the wire, and pass it another time. Grab my piece, twist
it out safely. Are you ready to take those boring dinner
parties up a notch? Well, let me start to tell you a little bit
about surface and how you can work it
with some chemicals or maybe with your
own bare hands. I'll see you in
the next meeting.
6. The Art of Surface Play: Get ready to unleash
your inner artist. It's time to start to add
some funky textures and maybe some cool patterns to
your pieces to make them pop. Once we've established a
very well built cylinder, and again, to have a base whiter than
the body and thicker, a body very similar in thickness and the rim thicker
than the rest of the walls, we can start to play around
not just with the shapes, but with the textures as well. Today, I'm going to show you
a little secret of mine. It's a chemical called
sodium silicate. You can buy it at your
local pottery shops. What you want to do
with this chemical is bring in a brush, dip it on the sodium silicate, and paint the outside. It's transparent, so you
won't be able to see it. But you want to put a nice
thick layer on the outside. I'm going to bring
in a little bit more and put some more. Sodium silicate acts a
little bit like glue. So in the sections
and on the rim, you can already see that
the chemical has run off. So what you have
to do is bring in your sponge and take it all out, not just from the base, but from the rim as well. You always want the
rim clean and wet. Go to your house, steal
your mom's hair dryer, and you will dry on the outside. Please note that I only
dried the outside. Before we begin, we
have to give the bottom another clean and
the rim as well. If you turn this off
and you touch it, it kind of has to feel
like hard plastic. You turn your wheel back on, and now only the rock
and roll fingers are going to go on the inside. And what you want
to do is not touch the outside and push
the inside only. As you push, you want
to start to come up and you want to try to
leave the rim alone. I'm going to come
here all the way up, and I don't know if
you can already start to see a little bit
of the texture. But let me turn the wheel off so you can see
a little bit of it. I'm going to try to
push a little more to see if we can get more
of that nice effect, because the more that you
push, the more it'll appear. And if you would want it to get the effect very exaggerated, you could add a
very thick piece. And there you have it.
That's the sodium silicate. So far, we've been doing
everything on the wheel. So now let's take our hands, build something, attach
it to the piece, and have it elevate its value. See you on the next video.
7. Handles with Style : Who says handles have to be
boring and conventional? Let's jazz up those mugs with some very quirky and
fun handle designs. Everybody that
comes into my store always comments on
my unique candles. I never make them conventional and I never make them straight. So the way I like to begin is by first making a
little ball of clay. This is going to sound silly, but to make a proper
ball of clay, you need to have something
that has no ridges, so you want to clean it all up before you start
manipulating the clay. And the key here is
going to be to make this very nice, slow and smooth. So that's pretty
great right there. I'm going to go ahead and start dividing the clay
in two sections, little by little, twisting
it on both sides. Which kind of looks like a bone. So I continue, I
continue, and I continue. I'm going to give one side flat, maybe the smaller side. Give it flat and bring
all the edges down, which is what I'm
going to be attaching. Essence, this can
already be a handle, but I've made way
too many of these. So let's go ahead and put a little bit of a
personal touch. So when you go ahead
and grab a handle, people go two fingers. People do a gesture. So what you're going to
do is literally grab onto the clay and squeeze on it as if it was the handle
that you were going to use. Just like that. With
a finger underneath, I'm going to release, and I have a handle already
suited to my own hand. Let's go ahead and make
the second handle. Let's make this one a little
bit different, Let's make. I call this one
the dolphin tail. So I'm gonna make the
same thing again. I'm going to clean up the ball. And again, I'm gonna
divide it by two. But this time, I'm going to
make one side a little more extended and a
little bit smaller. And that's when I'm going
to give a flat surface. It's kind of like
if you were making a mushroom at the beginning. And I'm going to start
to shape the other end. Shaping the other end, you
should be taking your time. Taking your time to do it, squeezing little by little, and you want to start to change the shape to wherever it
is you want to take it. So, I call this the dolphin tail because it looks
like a dolphin tail. Now I'm going to start to shape. Besides, and I used to leave this little
side just like this. And this handle is very
comfortable to come grab, hold on to your
thumb, and drink it. But as time goes by, I like to have both
and just like that. And there you have a
second unique handle which you would grab like this. It's important to try
to test it before you use it to make sure
that your fingers fit. And if they don't, you can gift the mug to
your little sister. Et's attach them, shall we? In my studio. Ready? Mm hm. In my studio, we like
ridiculous handles. We like them unique, and we like for people to
look at them and say, This is something special, and I want the same for you. So to attach that same handle, you're going to scratch
with your needle tool. You're going to
scratch with your tool into multiple directions. Leave that off to
the side and do the same thing wherever
you're gonna attach it to. Don't worry too much
about measuring. Don't worry about too much
about making things perfect. Embrace the imperfections.
As your time goes by, you can start to be a little
more demanding on yourself. You're going to dip. With a little bit of
water on the inside, you're going to dip one side. With that dipped attachment, you're going to
pretend as if you were holding the mug,
which is like this. This is how I would hold
my mug to drink it. And with the edges, you're going to join the
clay onto the piece. You're gonna be like,
Alex, that handle is huge. Nobody needs a handle that big. You need to have fun. You need to embrace being different. You're in an art studio. You're in a pottery studio.
You're not an Ikea. Don't follow the
rules. Break them. Make something different that
will get people excited. Let's attach the other
handle to the other side and make a double handled
mug for no reason. I'm gonna go ahead and
do the same exact thing. Scratch to multiple
multiple directions. On the mug, as well. On the mug, as well. Again, dip one side onto the
water and attach and attach. Pit it up. And you have your piece. In
the last couple of videos, you're not just making
handles and textures. You're also practicing
every basic technique we've been talking
about from Video one. So now it's time to give you
a little bit of a taste of what an advanced technique
looks like. See you then.
8. Donuts and Bubbles: The Fun side of Pottery: Are you ready for a challenge? Well, let's trap
some air and make some pieces that not even
you thought were possible. As a beginner potter, you're probably gonna want to express yourself and maybe push yourself over the
limits so you can maybe explore harder techniques. And this is one of them.
Lately, a lot of people in my studio have been asking
me for the bubble plate. So I'm going to
share that with you. After you've opened up a
hole and you've widened your piece with the rock
and roll technique, instead of going up, you're
probably gonna want to leave everything just as it is. And instead of going up, you're gonna grab
your middle finger and you can help yourself
with other fingers, as well. It doesn't really matter. And you're going to start
to open up the middle. When you go down, you
don't go straight down. You want to go kind of in
a curve to the inside, and you always want to have enough water so your finger
doesn't get stuck as you go. And that's how you
make a division. Now you're going to
treat both walls exactly as you would
if there's one. You're going to grab
the bunny kissing the snake technique
to bring it higher. And on the outside as well. The only difference here is
now that there's two walls. I smooth them both out. And with the bunny kissing
the snake, but wider now, you're gonna join both corners until they start to
touch each other. It doesn't matter too much if one is taller
than the other one. It doesn't have a big influence. If you still see a little
bit of an opening, you can come with your sponge
and move it side to side. I grab my sponge, tidy up the inside. Tidy up the outside. Use my piece of wood to remove excess and make
it look like a doughnut. And you have your doughnut hip. Now that you're well on your way to becoming a pottery wizard, let's grab those pieces, turn them upside down, and I'm gonna teach you how to trim. See you on the next video.
9. Polishing Your Masterpieces: It's time to give
your pottery pieces a little bit more of a
professional finish. Let's trim them together and make them look a
little bit nicer. You're going to have to go and say sorry to your mom again because you're going
to have to steal her hair dryer once more. In order to trim your piece, I don't know if you've
heard this term before. We call it in pottery
leather hard. You want to get your piece
to feel like leather. So you're going to
dry it manually. Bear in mind that when you dry, you shouldn't dry the rim and you shouldn't
dry straight down. You have to dry inside on a diagonal and outside
on a diagonal. If you dry your rim too much, you're going to make it crack. And if you dry the
bottom too much, you're going to open
the middle of it. Once you dry it to leather hard, the shape of the piece
shouldn't change too much, so you don't actually
need water to cut it and remove it because
once you cut it, you should be able to remove it without changing
the shape of it. It's already pretty hard. Once you've dried it enough, you can feel comfortable
to cut it and pick it up because it's already gonna
be too dry like leather. You're gonna turn your
piece upside down, and first with your eye, try to put it as
centered as possible. These are the tools
that you're gonna need. You're gonna need
a straight tool. You're gonna need a round tool. You're going to need the
little pottery needle again. As your experience goes by, you're going to put it
in the center just by eyeballing it and spinning
the wheel and taking it out. For now, with the little needle, you can test if it's
in the center or not. By approaching the clay little by little until it
starts to touch. It's only touching one side, which means I have
to stop my wheel, check where it touched. Push it in the
opposite direction. In this case, I'd have
to push it this way. Test it one more
time. Get closer in a different location. And now it looks like it's
touching all the way around, so that means it's
fairly in the center. Bear in mind, the
piece has to be perfectly symmetrical
for this to work. So just get as close as
you can possibly get it. You're going to make
four balls with the piece of clay that we had, and you're going to attach
these blocks on the outside by holding the top and
squeezing on the side. Hold the top, squeeze aside. Hold the top, squeeze aside, hold the top, squeeze aside. Then you're going to attach
it a little bit more. Because the piece
is leather hard, this clay is not going to
get attached to the piece. That should be pretty safe
so I can start spinning. Bear in mind, when you
take off the piece, the top is gonna be
a little bit wet, so get your mama's hair
dryer again and make sure that top is
also leather hard. Before you start cutting, you want to make some marks with the needle in the case you
want to make some shapes. For example, I'm going to make a little circle right
on the edge here, and I'm going to make one just a little bit more
on the outside. And that's the marking of
where my foot is going to be. I'm going to come with
the rounded shape, trimming too, and I'm going
to start in the center. I'm going to start in the center and move towards the right. If it's leather hard, the clay is not going to stick. The clay is going
to come right out. If it's sticking, means you need to dry it
a little bit more. You can repeat going from the center to the outside
as much as you need. I personally don't like
to take off too much, and when you get to
your marking, you stop. When you're ready to
make things straight, you can come with a
straight trimming, too. I always like to start in the center and go
off to the side. This rule does not always apply. I'm going to do the same
thing with the outside. Here's where my marking is. I'm gonna ho ahead
and just start trimming right on that edge. As your experience goes by, you're gonna like to see how you like to hold
your trimming tools, but I like to use
them as if I was trying to cut some steak
or some vegetables. How. To finish it off. I'm gonna grab my sponge, make it all smooth. Stop it. And the most important
part, put your signature. I'm going to go ahead
and write mine. And if you want, you can
write the year 2024. Remove the blocks. And this here, ladies and
gentlemen, is footwork. Your pottery is looking
absolutely delightful, but it's missing one
important thing, some color. I'll see you on the next video.
10. Bringing Your Piece to Life with Color: Pieces looking a
little bit sad lately? Well, I get it. Let's add some color to them and
bring them to life. For me, it's very important that if you're going to use
something for food, you have to make
sure that it has the food safety stamp or that it says food
safe somewhere. I'm going to put
these off to the side now and we're going to
start to paint a piece. Today we're going to be
glazing this piece right here. And the reason I grab two
glazes is because I love to put one on top of the other and get new effects every time. When you start to
combine colors, you're not going to
get the effect that you would get with
regular colors. Like if you would put white and red, you're not
going to get pink. When you're having
brush on glazes, that means that you have
to add very thick layers. When you add the paint,
you want to add material. It's not a canvas. You're
adding material onto the piece. So every time I put a
little bit of paint, I'm going to come right
back. And add some more. You have to bear in mind that
glazes, some of them run, and you're gonna get a lot of your pieces ruined by
the glaze. That's okay. You're gonna learn,
you're gonna have fun, and on the next time, you're
probably gonna do it again. But on the third time
you'll do it correctly. Watch this all dries, or if you don't want to
wait until it dries, it doesn't matter too much. You're going to grab
your second layer, and maybe you're going
to put sparks of it in different sides and let it sit. There's not really
any rules to this. The only thing you
want to do is to try and keep everything
from going under that line. If something does happen when you accidentally
painted the bottom, you can always come
with a fresh sponge and clean that bottom out. As a matter of fact, if you
wanted to delete everything, you could literally just
come and take out the glaze, and that's okay, as if
it was never there. You just have to let that dry a little bit and then
continue on your way there. After you've covered
the whole thing with two Alex coats or five
regular person's coats, you can leave it
to sit and dry for a couple of hours before
you take it to the oven. It's been a long way here, and all of your pieces are
worthy of some celebration. So we're gonna take some
pieces out of the oven, take some pictures of them, and show you just
what we do with them. See you on the next video.
11. From Clay to Creation: Sharing Your Work: Your journey from clay to
creation is now complete. So now I'm gonna teach
you how to capture and picture the essence
of your pieces so you can share
it with the world. We have come very far together, and I hope you've enjoyed every moment because
I know that I have. I still have no idea how
my glasses have survived. Please check your
local pottery shops to learn about food safety on the glazes and the clay and their temperature so
they're safe in the oven. I'm not sure what the next
chapter is on my pottery life, but maybe I will see you again, the Wonanamaga and thanks
for everything. O.
Tiwona Ceramics
