Make furniture easily by yourself with cardboard - a complete guide

1. Introduction to this class: Hi, and welcome to How to make useful furniture from cardboard. I'm Naama, I'm an artist and a graphic designer. So why make furniture from cardboard? It's a cheap and free materials that you can find anywhere. You can make furniture that will be unique and will be tailored to your tastes. You can make that furniture yourself. You don't need carpentry skills. You don't even need Large space. You can even make furniture on a table in a small apartment. In this course, you will learn how to build sturdy furniture of cardboard that can carry weight and last for a long time. How to make rounded pounds, how to make drawers and boxes for storage. How to get a clean finish for the product. Simple way to get faux wood effect with paint, more tips and tricks to make your work easier. In the end of this course, you will know how to make furniture from cardboard. And you will be able to apply the knowledge to a wide variety of furniture. This course is great for people who love arts and crafts and want to learn a new skill. And to make unique pieces. is it also great for people who are on a tight budget or ecological minded and want to make crafts using found materials instead of buying ready-made and expensive furniture. So welcome and have fun making new and useful things, out of plain cardboard. 2. Tools and materials: In this video, I will talk about the tools and materials that we need for this course. First, we need cardboard. for making furniture. We use double wall, corrugated cardboard. The kind that is used in packages of large electronic utilities like TV screens, air conditioning units, washing machines, etc. We need a good cutting knife. There are all kinds of cutting knives that you can use. I highly recommend using a broad one that has a screw lock. While we work the blade gets blunt. So we have to renew it. We can break the blade. Now we have a new sharp blade again. So we also need snap-off blades and pliers, we need a ruler for making straight lines and cutting them. You can use short one like this. If this is what you have, I use this one that is one meter long. We also need a cutting mat. It is a self-healing, cutting on it will not damage it. The reasons we use cutting mats are: 1 - it protects the table, our working surface, and 2, it protects the blade because the cutting mat is relatively soft, the blade can last longer. If you don't want to buy cutting mat at this point, you can simply use another cardboard underneath to protect your table. The glue that we will use is the simple PVA glue or school glue. We will also use a hot glue gun. Hot glue is not mandatory. It is possible to build an entire piece of furniture just with PVA glue. But there are many cases where hot glue will save us a lot of time. We also need a right angle ruler or L-shape ruler, or another object that has a right angle of 90 degrees. Measuring tapes like this one. I prefer the soft one. We will also need a masking tape, because it can be easily removed without damaging the cardboard. We need some sanding papers, and a simple kitchen knife that has a serrated blade. The last thing we'll need is water activated paper tape. The glue gets activated when it gets wet. This will save us a lot of time. But if you don't want to buy this right now or you can't find it now. You can simply use strips of plain paper with PVA glue. And that's it. Let's get to work. 3. The strength of the cardboard: Cardboard is a fairly soft material. So how can we use cardboard to build furniture that will be strong and last for a long time? Corrugated cardboard is made of two layers of paper. And between them there is another layer in the form of waves. These waves give the cardboard its strength. We will use double walled corrugated cardboard, which is stronger. If we fold the cardboard in that direction, it folds easily, but in the other direction... If we try to fold it, if you try to break it, It's really hard. Therefore, the first rule is that the weight will be on the waves. The stripes should be vertical and not in that direction, When the stripes are horizontal. The cardboard can be break if there is a place to bend. But if we prevent it from bending, if it is stuck in several direction, then it will not have room to bend. And therefore, it will not have room to break. So the second rule is that each part should be connected to other parts in several directions. Another issue is that cardboard that already has a wrinkle or a deep crease can break easily in that point, it's a weak point. So rule number three is: prefer to use cardboard that has no wrinkles. I have a piece of cardboard here in this direction. It folds easily. If I put some heavy weight on it, it will not hold it. So what I'll do is put the weight not on this side, but on this side. Where the waves are vertical. Now, it does not fold. If I put weight here, it carries the weight without a problem. But this thing is unstable because there is really nothing to hold it. If all the parts are glued together and they will be connected in other direction, then they will not move. And it will be possible to put a lot of weight on it. In fact, I can even lean on it or even sit on it and it will not break. There is a relatively large space here. The problem with large spaces is that there is nothing that supports the cardboard at certain points. The larger the space, the more likely it is that if I press... I can't break it, but it can happen in really large spaces. So what we do is narrow the gaps. Just put this little thing here. Then if I use force here, it will have support from below. So rule number four is make large spaces smaller. In the coming lessons, we will see how these rules are carried out in practice. 4. Designing cardboard furniture: The first step is to design the piece of furniture that we want. Let's say that I want to make a storage cabinet. So I'm going to ask myself a few questions. Where is it going to stand in the house? What is the width there? This will be the maximum width of the cabinet. What is the depth? What should be the height? If I want to use the top and put things on it and work on the surface, then it should be at a convenient level, like 90 centimeters, or maybe it should be taller to get more storage space. Does the top should be flat so we can put things on it. Or maybe it can have a more interesting shape. Should it have open shelves or drawers? What about the backside? It can be solid because the cabinet will be against the wall. But in other cases, when the piece of furniture will be looked at from different directions, the back should be open. And finally, what is the style? It can have a clean, modernistic look with straight lines. It can have a vintage romantic look, or it can have a unique and fun shape. You can really go crazy here with shapes and ideas. Especially if it's going to be in a child room. Although we can go nuts with strange shapes, there are some limitations. The legs of the furniture can't be thin. If you want a table or chair, for example, the legs should be bulkier or be connected. Like in this desk. I made it a few years ago for my son and he still uses it. When we have all that information, we can plan our piece of furniture. draw the design on paper and what the general measurements. If it has drawers or shelves, consider the things that are going to be inside them and write down the optimal height. of the drawer or shelf. For example, for a bookcase, consider the height of your books. At this point, you don't have to design a new furniture. You can build along with me, I can show you how to build a small cabinet that has simple shapes and exact measurements. But after you do that, maybe you'd like to build another furniture, one that is in your style with your ideas. Then come back to this lesson and consider all these points. 5. Example: Planning a small cabinet: I'm starting here with a simple cabinet with rectangular shape. So I can give you exact measurements to follow. It will have drawers. To make it interesting, It will have two identical drawers. And a large one. I want it to have legs. They will be attached separately. You can design a furniture that the legs are already in the general shape. Like that. I measured the area where I want the cabinet to be. I don't want it to be wider than 36 centimeters. And the depth should be about 25 centimeters. The height of the drawers should be about ten centimeters. And this one will be 17. I consider the thickness of the cardboard. Because I want the final drawers to be 10 centimeters high. I will actually cut these holes 11 centimeters. I want the thickness here to be 4 centimeters. They can be narrower, but in this case, I want it to look thick and massive. The width of the drawer will be 25. So the overall width will be 33. I want the top to be flat so I can put things on it. To make the design more interesting. It will have another panel on top that will be a little wider. I will add the top and the legs separately. Okay. Now that I know all this, I can do calculation and see that without the top and the legs, the height will be 55 centimeters. And the width 33. The plan and the measurements are in the resources of this lesson. 6. The building order of a cardboard furniture: In this video, I will outline the building order of the furniture. So you know the general plan. You don't need to remember the list now, I will demonstrate every step and explain everything in the coming videos. You can also use this video as a checklist, Every time you make new cardboard furniture. make the front panel, back panel, and center panels. make notches in the central panels. Mark them in the front and the back panels, but do not cut them. Make a cross-sections as the number of notches. Assemble the mainframe for testing to check that there are no parts that are too long or missing. If everything is okay, assemble again, but this time with glue. check again if there are any protruding parts. Measure the cell walls and side panels, cut the paths, and glue them to the place. Add support for the top, which will support the roof of the furniture. Add supports for the floor of the furniture. That will also serve as an anchor point for the legs. Add the top and the bottom of the furniture. Cut out protruding parts and Sand off. Reinforce all connections and corners with strips of paper and PVA glue or with water activated paper tape. make drawers, boxes and legs. Paint with acrylic paints. Recommended. Or leave natural. Apply varnish as another protective layer. Be proud. You made furniture by yourself and it's made of cardboard. Start designing your next furniture. 7. Important! How to cut cardboard safely: Before we start to cut, we have to talk about some safety rules. Even if you have experience with cutting knives, please pay attention to these very important roles. Maintain a sharp knife so you don't have to struggle with cutting. Sharp knife is safer. When you cut, stand Don't sit down. You don't have enough control on the blade. When you sit. the cardboard is very thick, Don't try to cut it in one go Stand in front of the ruler, along the line. When you start to cut, don't just start cutting because the knife may get out of line and cut your finger. Hold the ruler firmly. Feel the ruler with the blade. When you feel it, just then start to cut. Don't use a lot of force. Again, feel the ruler and start to cut. When we made this, we can put the ruler side, hold the cardboard firmly, the hand at a respectful distance. Respect the knife, and don't get too confident. Repeat these steps every time you cut cardboard is if it's your first time. Even if you are very experienced. For straight lines, we use a ruler and a sharp cutting knife. For curved lines, I prefer using a narrow kitchen knife with a serrated blade and use it as a saw. if you need to cut a curved line put the cardboard just outside of the table. Make a small cut using a sharp knife, insert the kitchen knife and use it as a saw. To find the straight line, we use the natural lines of the cardboard. Sometimes it's very easy to see the lines in cardboard like this. The lines are very obvious. But when we use smooth cardboard, then sometimes it's harder to see the lines. If you don't see them. Hold the cardboard in all kinds of angles to the light until you see the lines. mark the first point on the line, we mark the next point. And then we can base all our lines on that first line. 8. First step the main panels: When we plan the construction of cardboard furniture, we need the front panel, back panel, and at least one intermediate. In many cases, one is enough. But for furniture that will carry a lot of weight like chairs for example, there should be some more panels to distribute the weight. Before I begin, I need to decide what the front panel is. In the case of a cabinet or shelving unit, it's easy. The front panel is the one in the front. The back panel is this one, and the center one is here. But it's another matter for furniture with complex shapes. to make this chair, for example, the front panel is this one at the side of the chair. Because we can easily duplicate that shape for the back panel, and the central panels. Draw the main panels of your design and write the measurements. Don't forget to number the paths. 9. Example: The main panels of the cabinet: The first step is to cut the first panel. Number one. The front panel. What we need is a simple rectangle. Height 55 centimeters. The width is 33 centimeters. 55 is the length of the cardboard along the waves. The width is crossing these waves. Now I need to make the first cut. to find a straight line in the cardboard, I will use the natural lines of the cardboard. This is the first line. If you don't have a cutting mat, just use another cardboard. I opened the knife and locked it, so the blade won't move. It's very important. The ruler is straight on the line that I marked. I'm standing in front of it not to the side and not sitting down. I put the knife in contact with the ruler. The knife gets into the cardboard. And now I'm holding the ruler firmly, so it won't move. But I'm holding the knife lightly, not with full force. And I cut along the ruler. The knife is always in full contact of the ruler. The first cat is shallow because it's a very thick cardboard. So now we do it again. The ruler is not moving, it's in the same place. We repeat and make the cut deeper. The third time. Now I can use more force because the knife is inside the card and it will not get out of place and cut me. Now I can move the ruler and we have a clean cut. The width is 33 centimeters. So I measure now 33 centimeters on the cardboard and mark it. Now it's time to cut this side. I will use a right-angled ruler. You can use another object that has a 90 degrees angle. And on the other side, And I will cut it now. We have these three sides. And now we can cut the height, 55 centimeters. So this is panel number one. Now, I will mark the drawers. It is 4 cm from here And here. to make it simple, all around. It's four centimeters. For the draws 11 centimeters. That is the first one. I'm supposed to measure four centimeters here. But to avoid accumulating mistakes along the way, I would measure from the top 4 plus 11 plus 4, that makes 19, from the top here, which will be 19 plus 11 from the top. So I'll measure 30 from the top. In this method, there will be less measuring mistakes. Now 4 centimeters, from the bottom. And what is left is the third drawer. That's supposed to be 17 centimeters. I measure it, and it is! great. Now these parts I will cut out. I will not throw them away. I will use them later as the front of the drawers. So keep them. Now we have the first panel. I will use it now as a stencil to mark the other two. It's important to mark them, to give them numbers to avoid confusion. Again, make sure that the lines of the cardboard are vertical. attach them with masking tape and trace the lines. I will cut this out. And this one will be #2 the central panel. And this is #3 In this one, I will not cut out the holes for the drawers, but mark them anyway, because it will help me later when I assemble the furniture. So they are: #1 is the front, #2 the center, and #3 that will be the backside of the cabinet. 10. What to do if you need larger cardboard: Sometimes we need a bigger cardboard. So we can combine two small ones. attach them in one side with a paper tape. I use gummed paper tape, but you can use just a strip of paper and glue. I put some glue on the edge of the cardboard as well. Now, paper tape on the other side too. To prevent them from bending, I'm adding on the backside some strips of cardboard, make sure that the waves of the cardboard are in the right direction. So they won't bend. Put something heavy on top for several hours. After it dries, you can cut it to the shape you want. 11. Cross sections: The cross-sections connect the main panels and they give the furniture its stability. The height of the cross sections is the same as the margins. We make notches in the central panel and notches in the cross section. So if the margins are four centimeters, the notches will be two centimeters. The length of the cross section is the depth of the furniture. There is only one central panel, so we make notches only in that panel. If we have a more complicated shape like this chair, the height of each cross-section is different and is according to its place. The cross section B that connects here is 40 centimeters long and the height of the notch is half of that, 20 centimeters. The length is the depth of the chair. Because it's a chair, we need more central panels. So we make exact notches in all the central panels. And in the cross-section there are notches, as the number of the central panels. So if we have three central panels, there will be three notches in the cross-sections. If it's a bit confusing, don't worry, it will be clearer in the royal chair videos. How many cross-sections do we need? Well, that depends. There should be every five to ten centimeters, at least one in any section. 12. Example: cross sections of the cabinet: I'm going to make notches in the central panel. Number two. I plan to have at least two on every side of the panel and the holes for the drawers, the notches will go to the middle of the strip. So the first step is to find the middle of the strips. Since in this case the width is 4 centimeters. Nice even number. The middle is 2 centimeters. I want two notches here. I'm not going to measure the distance. I just mark them. I made a simple stencil. The height is 2 centimeters. The width is the same width of the cardboard i'm using. So it can get in with no pressure and without a gap. I lace the stencil here. The mark is in the middle. I will cut this out. Now. I will check if the stencil is any good. Yes, it gets in exactly. I cut out all the 24 notches. And now panel number one looks like that. Number two, it looks like that. Number three looks like that. I want to mark the notches on the other panels. I will not cut them, just mark them. It will help later to assemble the parts. I need to mark on the back side of the panel. So I put number one on top of number two. I flip them and I'll attach them together with masking tape. Now I'll mark with a pen. panel number one is marked. Now I'll take panels #2 and #3 Number two is on top of number three. This time, I'll make the marks on the front side of number three. At this point, this is what we need. Number one looks like that. Number two and number three, look like that. Number one, the markings on the back. I will cut the cross sections that will get into these notches. There will be 4 centimeters tall. like these trips. And 25 wide. So this is 25 by 4. The middle point is 12.5. I will use my stencil again, and I'll cut it now. We have 24 notches, so we need 24 of these trips. The important thing is that we see the waves on the top like that. The waves are vertical. We can use the first one as a stencil for the others. Remember to mark the original and always use the same stencil. 13. What glue to use: When do we use PVA glue and when hot glue? Pva glue or school glue is very strong adhesive for cardboard. It's good for large areas. It dries transparently and without thickness. It takes a long time to dry so you can walk without tastes. The best way to use PVA glue is to make sure that the parts are pressed firmly together. So put something heavy on top or press the parts together with masking, tape or clips. Hot glue, good for narrow areas. It dries quickly. So it's suitable for growing paths that are difficult to hold for a long time. Transparent but thick. If there are any leftovers, they should be cut out later. Caution, the glue is very hot. Glue gun usually has a little league that it's not practical when we work with hot glue, we have to work fast. So my advice is not to use the leg and just laser gun on a piece of cardboard. Oh, you can make a simple holder like this one. I make this from a milk carton and put something heavy on the buttons so it will be steady. Don't touch the glue when it is in a liquid state or the mouth of the glue gun until they cool down. And always remember to unplug the glue gun when you're done. 14. Assembling the main parts (Cabinet): In this video, I will assemble the mainframe of the cabinet. We start with a central panel number to start with the first two at the base. So it can stand up. Just slide it in place. At this point, I'm not using glue. The purpose of this step is to find mistakes before we glue everything in places that are upside down, use masking tape to secure the parking place. We attached the back panel, number three in the front one, number one, and secure them temporary with masking tape. Paths that are too long, too short, or if we miss something. If we can fix the mistakes now. And if everything is okay, we can assemble everything again, this time with clubs. Like before we start with the two at the bottom. And then all the rest. I check that all the strips starting position and nothing is sticking out. I start with the backbone. The main part on top. The markings I made will help me to position the parts exactly in place. In this case, I will use hot glue because I want it to dry quickly. Be careful. It's very hot. Don't touch the liquid. Glue with your fingers. If there is excess of blue, violet with a piece of cardboard, not with your fingers. I glued everything. And now when we look at the front panel, after we assembled the mainframe, we can measure the anal sills. Consider the thickness of the cardboard. Before I glue the new paths, I check if something is too big and that cut the thing that stick out. I glue the parts of the same order, first the bottom and top and then the sites. By the way, these are so-called on the back and make Berlin front. It's important to have cats. They really help you building of furniture. The side panel, I want to use PVA glue, but also hot glue, but they can't go together. So I put PVA glue on most of the surface. The cliff two lines clean for the hot glue. 15. Supports: Before we paste the top and bottom, we need to put supports. In cases where more support is needed. For example, if it is a set of a chair, then the torque should get more support to distribute the weight more evenly on the top surface. In the case of law, furniture on which someone might lean on, we should add more support so the top will not collapse or get indents. We will also put supported the button and that will serve as anchor points for the legs are wheels that we add to the furniture. When connecting legs, you need to connect them to a stable point and not to a hollow place. This way, the screw can be caught, type in something. Even if the furniture has no legs or wings are usually add supports for the bottom part anyway. This apart should also be at the height of the margins that their length does not matter. We will cut them as needed. The most important thing is the direction of the waves. So we can see the waves from above. They do not need to be arranged in a special way. Just divide the area into smaller parts. In the next video, I will show an example of support to the top and bottom of the cabinet. 16. Example: supports for the cabinet: The cabinet we need supports that are four centimeters high. The length can be short or long. We will use cardboard leftovers. What is important is the direction of the waves. It needs to be like that. You can see the waves on top is usual for the context of the blade, Mr. Molar, only then start making the car. These are small and now our paths. So be careful with the hot glue. In this way, will divide all the rest. This is how it looks. All the spaces divided. Another bottle. I will flip the cabinet. And here I make different kinds of supports. I will make a tight spiral. I take a long piece like that and all it tightly. Hi, secure it with a rubber band full. Now, we put it here. This is where I will attach the leg later. So it will have something solid to connect with. I will use hot glue for this. I will do that in the other three corners. For the rest of the spaces, I will make loose spiral. I let it go and now it takes more space. And I'll do that for the rest. That's another way to make some folks. Before we move to the next step, there are two important things. First, we need to measure the distance to the center of this tight spirals. Because after I'll attach the bottom, I will not know where all the correct spots to attach the legs too. So I measure and it is five centimeters from here and seven centimeters from this direction on all the four corners. The second issue is making sure that everything is flat. I use the ruler to detect places that are uneven. And do the same thing for the top. 17. Top and bottom (Cabinet): The base, I use a piece of cardboard that is bigger than the size of the base. That straight side will be different. I put some PVA glue and spread it with a piece of cardboard. Make sure it covers all the surface. It's a dirty walk. So protective walking area because it's PVA glue. I can take the time to place it. There's no hurry. When the glue is totally dry, I can cut all the x's, the top of the furniture. And for the front pads prefer to use a smooth cardboard. Fill the tub. I made this one. These are two rectangles that are glued together to get a thicker top. I will attach it so that the buck we'd be flat in front and on the sides. It will look like that. And it's ready for the next step. 18. Smoothing the surface: Before we can paint, we need to smooth all the joints, remove excess of cardboard and lumps of glue. You can use a sharp knife to take off the excess pounds. I'm doing it in my direction this time, but not too close, so the knife will not flex suddenly in cattle, the knife is flat on the cardboard. So the cardboard itself is a guiding line for the night. Another option is selected Kitchen Knife. It is not as sharp, but does the work and it's safer. It is also less likely to accidentally damage the cardboard. After we remove all the big parts, we go over with sanding paper. You can just hold the paper like that. When you hold it like that, we can make smooth corners. And if we want, we can run them a bit. I want to keep it flat. I can rub the paper around symbol and use it like that. To keep a straight lines and sharp edges. Use your fingers to fail where all the bumpy places are. Don't follow the dust away. We can use this to fill holes and gaps. In the next step. 19. Filling gaps and holes: The next step is not mandatory, but sometimes you may need it. Sometimes we find holes or gaps in the furniture. So it's recommended to fill these holes before we move on. The simplest way is to use cardboard shavings that we have from the previous step. I made some myself. I put little pieces of cardboard in the blender. But if you're not sure what that will do to your blender, you can calculate with pieces of paper with scissors. Instead. I have a gap you that I want to feel. I mixed the dusk with some water and glue and put it inside. I can use some tool to push it in and remove excess. This little ice cream spoon is perfect for the job. After it will dry, I will send it with sandpaper to make it smooth. 20. Securing the corners (gummed paper tape): The next step is to cover all the corners of the furniture with strips of paper. There are two reasons why. First, it gives a nice finished with the furniture, it will look better. The second reason is that it makes all the connections and corners stronger. I recommend using gamut paper tape. One side of it is just brown paper and the inside has dry glue that gets activated when it is worth. If you don't have it right now, you can instead use strips of plain paper and use simple PVA glue. I will demonstrate that in the next video. This adhesive paper is specifically designed for cardboard. It has the same color and it sticks very strongly to the cargo. Because the glue gets activated with water. I separate the water and the paper. I don't want water to drip on the role by accident. So what I do is put the paper on one side, the water on the other. I have some container with water and the sponge. And they also have a small towel here so that I have something to wipe my hands on from time to time. I measured the tape, make it bigger. I can fold it in half to malloc Miami to point. It's not necessary, but for those who are just starting out, it can help them position it better. It is very important to keep your hands dry. If my hands were worth now, then I will actually stick the paper to itself. I'll post the paper here. The half will be writing the corner. I will attach it while I stretch a bit to get rid of the wrinkles. This base is exposed. I'm just cutting the square of this paper and align it with the other two. Like a cut in the middle to the edge. You can start with the squares. First make the corners, and only then make the other edges. Now the inner corners as well. I cut one of that length. Now I will fault, but I will not folded inward. Folded outward. And now after I applied some water, I pin it here to the center. I align it to the corner with the finger a little with the nail. With my finger, I push it into the corner so it will stick better. Attaches the other two paths. I cut it to that length, not including the round corner. It's a relatively narrow space, so it's a little how to attach that I managed. With my finger, I find a corner. Now also from here find the corner. Paine formed the middle to the sides. If there are wrinkles, then stretch it a bit. Rounded corners. We do it a little differently. My plan is to make this corner the other corner, and then cover here with another piece. Hi. Now I'll do this for all the other paths, including all internal paths. When we have launched curved shapes, we do the same thing. There is a demonstration for that in the Royal Shell video. 21. Using paper and glue: If you don't have gamut paper, tape, or if you can't get it, you can simply use ordinary papers with PVA glue. The paper should not be too thin. Because thin papers do not carry the water in the glue and the paper gets wrinkles. I prefer to reuse papers I collected over time or pages that I have used in the past and can now be reused. You can take 23 pages at once, fault them to find the center and cut them with a cutting knife or with scissors. The most convenient way to apply the glue is to put glue into a container and use a flat brush to apply the glue. Apply it evenly all over the paper, including to the very edge so that the paper will stick well. Now we use it like Gump paper tape. As we saw in the previous video. Attach, straighten the paper, feels the edge with your finger and from the center attached to the sides. And if there are wrinkles, smoothen. The downside of using plain paper is that it takes longer because you have to cut the streets and apply glue. But if you can't get a roll of paper tape, it's better to use this method then to delay or abandon your project. And it's also more ecological. Because of the large differences in color, it is advisable to paint with white paint to give a uniform appearance before painting with the final column. Usually one coat of paint is not enough because the color is a bit transparent, especially in cases where there is printed on the cardboard. But after a few codes, you get a uniform look. And you can paint the box of furniture in the final color you want. 22. Drawers: In this video, I will show how to make simple and useful draws for your furniture. I make to all. So the cabinet, when I met the front panel, I saved these parts and now I will use them is the front side of the duals. The draws will be 23 wide and 25 deep. It is not exact fit, so it could get in and out easily. The height of these two will be eight centimeters and this 114 centimeters. So the plants that I need a base of 23 by 25 on this side, two paths that are 25 by eight. The back one that is eight centimeters high, but not 23. Why? Because it would not be able to get between these two, which will be 21.7. The front piece I will attach later. When you use hot glue, don't hold the piece like that because the hot glue may trip on you. Hold it to the side. From the front base is bigger. I measure one centimeters around. And now these lines will help me to position the dough in the center. I rely on the lower side here. On the side, it will be in the center between the lines. In order that the dual will be strong and useful. We secure all the connections so it will not fall apart. Before I will do that, I will find the center point on the front and make a little hole for the handle. I start small with a needle. Now I will make it larger with some pointing tool. And now a bit larger with a chopstick. I will add to pay for check on all the corners inside and out the doors with acrylic paint to protect them. Screw the handles in. And that's it. 23. Boxes: We learned how to make clothes. In the same way we can make storage boxes of any size. We want to. Start by measuring the place where you want the box to be. The width. It is important to leave the space of one to two centimeters so that the books can fit easily. The height we take into account the thickness of the base of the box, because the walls of the box will be on the base. So I put a sample of the cardboard and measure the height from there. And I lead the mountain of one to two centimeters. When assembling a box, we can put the wall next to the base. On the base because recommended that the worst would be on the base. To make the books more stable. The sidewalls will get between the front and the backwards. So I use them to measure what the width of the sidewall should be. We have the box and it's the right size. But in order to make it convenient to put it in and take it out, we will make opening at the front. It can be round like this one, all squared. In this case, I chose to make a rectangular one. The height is three centimeters and the width is 11 centimeters. And now I can tick the box out and put it in easily. Get to the next step. I smoothed and sand all the joints and columns because it's very important to strengthen all the corners as we did for the rest of the furniture so that the box will be useful and will not fall apart. So use gum, paper tape, simple papers and PVA glue. I will put the roll on one side, the water on the other side. And I'll use a towel to wipe drops so the role will not get wet. And as usual, it is very important to smooth and fasten way so that there are no wrinkles. I follow the strip outward to find the center line. I attach the center line to the corner, put it into the corner, and then smooth the right side and the left side. And I will do the same for all the kernels on the inside of the box and on the outside of the box. I chose to paint the boxes with white as the base color. I use a damp sponge, makes sure that it's not dripping water. I paint in all kinds of directions, but I finished in the same direction. Usually across. In the second coat of paint, these tribes will be smoother. I leave the inside of the box, right? It will be bright and easier to see what is inside. When using yellow color. It is particulary recommended to paint the cardboard first with y. And now I have useful and beautiful boxes. In the same way, you can make boxes with dividers to keep things organized. Choose a thick cardboard they signed up should be with the waves. As we did with the cross-sections. Find the center and make a cut through the middle. Use another piece of cardboard to mark the width of the notch. Cut out the notes, and do the same on the other one. Now the two pieces fit together. Cargo the corners with paper tape to make the dividers table and cover the top is way. It will mask the waves of the cardboard and will look better. Put it in the box. Now you can keep things organized and neat. 24. Legs / wheels: You may want to add legs to the furniture. You can make your own legs out of cardboard. As I will demonstrate shortly, all use reusable materials like plastic, Cokes, etcetera. Attach the leg where there is something to which the school can be connected inside, not empty space. In the video of the cabinet supports, you can see a demonstration of such an anchor point for the legs. Because also possible to connect wins. In case of furniture that needs to be portable in the house. Note that the furniture is relatively light, so if it has wheels, it will move very easily. So you should only attach wheels if you really need them. The legs and a weak connection point. So it is important to attach them to the place with the school. And in addition to that also used note, I will make legs for the cabinet like this one. A piece of cardboard with the waves facing up. The width is 33 centimeters, the height is five centimeters. Before I roll it, I will break the cardboard this way. Now just a little bit of glue. The important part is in the end. Roll tightly and keep it in line. Now, let it dry completely for a few hours. I will use this paper to wrap the lethally. I want to make some sort of name to connect the leg to the cabinet. And now we use a chopstick. I measure how long it should be. I just make a little cut and it snaps. In the center. I make a whole lot to y. The font is not pointing enough. So I will use a pencil sharpener. Before I insert it, I will put some glue. After we clean dry, I will sharpen the other side of the stick. This is where I want to connect the leg. Well, the support spiral is making a hole with the sharp tool and making sure not to go over the other side. And of course, some glue. The phone legs are connected. But before it dries completely, it's time to check if the height of the legs is why. And I see that one leg is shorter than the others. This one is a bit shorter. So before the glue is dry, I can lift it and add some piece of paper to fix the problem. And now all the four legs and level. 25. Painting: You don't have to paint the furniture if you like the natural log of the cardboard. There is a certain charm and unique look to it. That painting the furniture with acrylic paint has two advantages. One is to give it the style we want. The second is to seal the furniture and protected for moisture and humidity. The paint, we will use this acrylic paint. It is water-based, so there are no bad fumes and after it dries, it is waterproof so we can clean the furniture with wet cloth with no problem. I use acrylic that comes in containers like this one, or in tubes. Acrylic also comes in small tubes. They are more expensive and they are less suitable for painting large furniture. We will use brushes. I also use a sponge. This is, for example, a piece of sponge that are glued to a stick and secured with a rubber band. The advantage of a sponge is that it depends, smooth with no brushstrokes. Acrylics are relatively transparent colors. We dilute the paint with a bit of water to make it easier to paint with. And that means one layer is not enough. We need at least two coats. The first layer should be completely dry before we paint the second layer. Note that the column gets darker when it's dry. So don't be alarmed when the second layer looks lighter. Before you start to paint your furniture. Trial Carlos, first on a piece of cardboard. When the paint is dry, you can try another paint on top of it to see what effect it gets. Drier layer of dark color and on top of that sunlight color or the other way around. And you can try and combination of different colors to see what that will get. Like. In this case, I tried ocher and brown and then blend them with just a bit of water. Another technique is to use a sponge and instead of making long and smooth lines, you can staple with the sponge to get an interesting texture. Experiment a bit with different colors and different textures. You can make an interesting texture with the brush. If you apply the second layer, when the first layer is not completely dry, the color underneath will blend with the color on top. So a good test of color is to let the first layer completely dry and only then make the second layer. After that, you will have several samples of the colors that you tried in the different textures. And then you can decide how to paint your furniture. 26. Painting the cabinet - Faux Wood effect: I want to get a simple would affect for the cabinet. To get that we need the light layer. I mix here, brown and white, roughly in similar quantities. It looks really light. In fact, it looks like the color of the cardboard, but when it dries, it will be darker. The first layer is completely dry. I tried the second layer with my brush. I take some brown color and make some strokes. When it's still wet. Clean the brush. And with a wet brush, blend the layer together would affect the brushstrokes are always in the same direction. If it looks too light, you can add more color. So that was just a test. And now I will print a cabinet. When I paint, I always begin painting on the side or back. So if there is a problem, it will not be on the front. I put a little blob of white and another in the same size in brown. Mix them together. If it's too thick. So I will add some water. I will use punch for the first layer. I makes trucks in several directions, but the last one is always in the same direction. Horizontally. The sponge should be moist but not dripping. I will paint all the cabinet in this color. If there are places where there is print on the cardboard, I will paint more than one code and let it completely dry before the next layer. For the second layer, I will use just brown and I will use a brush because this time I want the brush strokes. It will give me the texture that I want. I'm making some random strokes in one direction for the word effect that I want, always in the same direction. I didn't paint all the surface. So the paint will dry too soon. As long as it's still wet, I rinse most of the color from the brush. With a wet brush. I go over the strokes and blend them. I'll go from edge to edge. Some parts are darker and some are lighter. It's okay, That's the organic effect I want. Here. There is too much water. So I go over here with the brush and blend. I don t want watermarks. In that way. I will paint the whole cabinet and the tools. And the cabinet is finished. 27. Chair - Some notes about designing a chair: In this project, I'm not giving exact drawings and measurements. I only demonstrate the principles in general. You can make your chil to whatever size suits you. The recommendation is that the height of the chair seat, the distance between the buttock and the floor when city should be around 40 to 45 centimeters small adults, and 31 centimeters for children. But different people have different types depending on age, gender, and genetics. So it is recommended to first measure and choose the right size for you. I designed the back of the chair in the shape of a crown. You can design it in any way you want. It doesn't have to be a royal chair. It can have the shape of a cloud, flower, some amorphous shape, etcetera. Final note. To simplify the process for the lesson, I connected the back straight to the seat at an angle of 90 degrees. But if you are building a chair or a sofa, that should be comfortable to sit on for a long time. The angle between the back and the seat should be wider than 90 degrees. Like 100 degrees. 28. Chair - Drawing symmetrical shapes: First I draw the baseline and I mark the middle line. That will help me later to make a symmetrical shape. The width of the seat is 46 centimeters. The height is 40 centimeters. Now that I have the base shape, I can add the owls. At this point. I'm not trying to make it symmetrical. Now I chose the one I like and go over it with a marker. For the straight lines, I use a ruler. To make it symmetrical. I followed along the middle line. I staple them together so it will not move. Now I can cut the shape. I kept the straight lines with a ruler and the cutting knife. So this will be the shape of the seat. I'll do the same thing for the back of the chair. I have the shapes. Now I can use them as a stencil to cut the cardboard. 29. Chair - Cutting curved shapes: First, I will take the stencil to the cow bull. As always, I will use a ruler and a cutting knife for the straight lives. That for the Kraft lines, there are two options. The first one with the cutting knife, like it's harder when we get to curved corners. The second option is selected Kitchen Knife to use it as a so I press the cardboard just outside the table, but close the edge of the cutting mat is also a bit outside the table. So the knife will not harm the table. If the place is not in the edge, then we cut a little hole so we can insert the knife for the chair when h5 files like this for the c and tall like this for the back of the chair. You can cut them in any shape you want. 30. Chair - Cross sections in different sizes: Now I'll make the notches in the cross-sections for the royal chair. The notches should be half the height. The width of the notch is the thickness of the cardboard, usually between half centimeter, one centimeter, depending on the cardboard you are using. I use this little stencil I made I make a few little notches in all the directions, at least one in any section of the panel. The notch is half the height. Now I can use this panel to mark the notches and all the other panels. In the front and back panels. I will not cut the notches, just mark them. There should be one panel for the front, one panel for the buck, and three panels between them. I mark the notches here and the cross sections with letters. So it will help me to match them. For example, cross-section B is 40 centimeters high as the height of the city. Its length is the depth of the chair. The space between the notches should be about five to ten centimeters. I chose eight centimeters. I also cut notches in the chair back, but this step is not necessary. There are three notches because the seed has three metal panels. 31. Chair - Assembling the seat: The first step is to assemble the parts without glue, just to see that nothing is missing too long or too short. I start with one of the inner planets. The front panel with masking faithful. Now, I put this just to demonstrate that the structure is already stable and can carry heavy weight. Now I will assemble everything again, this time with glue. In the front and back panels. I use PVA glue and hot glue, but not in the same places. I add supports where there is too much space between the panels. The child is ready for the next step. 32. Back of the chair: I cut pieces of cardboard that are 2.5 centimeters height. The length is not important because always the waves should be seen from above. I start by making a frame all around the shape. When I get to a curve, I bent the piece. Now that I have the frame, I will divide the space within we support. There will also be 2.5 centimeters high. Now, I will add the top because a large area, so I will use PVA glue. Next step, sand off all the edges and after that to apply paper tape all around. When I get to occur, I tapped the paper on the side you have it can be flat on the surface. And then with scissors, I make cuts along the line. I will do that all around. And on the other side, the back of the chair is ready. 33. Chair - How to cover round parts: I begin with a piece of cardboard that is bigger than the surface I need and cut one side to get a straight line. I break the cardboard along the lines. For this, I will use hot glue because of the shape. It will be harder to do that with PVA glue. When you cover curved shapes, it's how to align the edges exactly. So I recommend to use a bigger piece of cardboard and then trim the excess later. Hello. Hello. After the glue is dry, I use a sharp knife to trim the paths that are sticking up. I had a flat and horizontal surface. So I will use PVA glue and put some heavy things on top. In the next video, I will connect the back of the chair to the seat. 34. Chair - smoothing the surface: Now we'll connect the two parts of the chair. They're not just saying move in the bath, helping me to align it better. But they're not necessary. Filling holes and gaps and sanding off all the joints and corners to get a smooth surface and then applying paper tape on all the corners. I didn't like that corner, so I fix it. The Joan's ready. Next step is to give it a unique design. 35. Chair - paint and stencil: The chairs eddy for pain. I painted the first layer in y. After that, I use the sponge to get interesting effect with tacos that I didn't like the outcome. Remember that you can always repaint, so don't be afraid to experiment. In the third layer. I got the result alike. I used white acrylic paint with just a little bit of blue. To use the stencil, I put a little color on a sponge. It's better to have too little, too much color on a sponge when we are using stencils. It is important to tap with the sponge, not a stroking, to keep nice crisp lines. And then remove the stencil in the forward direction, not to the side. So not to smear the color. The color is still wet. You can wipe off stains and mistakes. If we don't want to use certain parts of the stencil because beca to mask the paths that we don't want. The color that I choose will silver, but the result was too light. You can see the pattern only in certain angles of the light. So I made another layer on top of that. And I use light blue this time. I positioned the stencil a bit higher and to the right. So the silver layer underneath it looks like the shadow of the blue layer. And then a call to furnish a pillow. And it is a chair fit for a king or queen. The chair is for people, but deeper got hold of the chair and he is the king now. 36. A shelving unit: planning and parts: I tried different designs for the shelving unit and got to a design that I liked. The plan and the measurements are in the resources of this section. But I encourage you to make your own design and use my plan only as an example. I use large cardboards that they have from a TV screen packaging that they found. I drew the plan on one of the cardboards, made some changes and mark the final lines with a red pen. For this picture, I highlighted the lines with blue collar. I cut out the shape and then used it as a stencil. Mark the second cardboard and cut that one to this piece of furniture. The margins are very narrow, only two centimeters. The problem is that it is too narrow to cut notches for the cross sections. Therefore, this piece of furniture has no cross-sections and no central planner. The construction method is a little different, but still stable. This is what I need. These are the inner walls of the cells. The measurements are in the resources of this section, but I recommend that you do not immediately cut the cell walls. First measure the halls in your main panels. There are no cross sections, but there are support pieces that stabilize the furniture. So cut a lot of stripes at height of two centimeters. The width doesn't matter. I don't know how many pieces you will need, so you can cut them off them each time as needed. These are supporting pads. So it is important that they will be in this direction that you can see the waves from above. I have all the parts and I can move on to assemble the shelving unit. 37. A shelving unit - assembling: I have all the paths and I can start assembling. This piece of furniture does not have a central panel. This time a stock with a front panel. I place it down on the floor with his front facing the floor. And I start gluing the walls of the anal sex. I don't glue on the panel, but inside it, right next to the inner wall. To avoid mistakes, always check each part fits the correct path before gluing it. The glowing points are very narrow. So it is advisable to use hot glue and not PVA glue, in this case. Hello, The support strips between the cells. You can stick them with glue or PVA ignore whichever is convenient for you. The supports are the ones that will carry the weight and prevent the sales of the shelving unit from collapsing. So they are very important. If the support pieces are too long, you can cut them even with your hand. All fog the end and tuck it in. Make sure there are supports between all the cells. And now I can place the back panel and stick it in place. We also need some supports before gluing the site basis. And also on the other side. This is how it looks. The shape doesn't matter. The main thing is to spread some supports along the entire length so that the side panels were not caving. Now also supports for the lower and upper bounds. I put more support because there is more weight on them. So that's the bottom of the shelving unit. And the top. These areas allowed. So I use a combination of PVA glue and hot glue, but not in the same place. I apply PVA glue to most of the surface, but leave the sides clear for the hot glue. The area is long. So I apply hot glue only on one side at a time, the pieces in place, and then glue on the other side this way. And I will do the same for the top part and the bottom part. I'm not that tall. To reach the top, I use the small letter. There are two more things that added before printing, and they are in the next video. 38. Additions to the shelving unit: In this video, I will talk about two additions for shelving unit. The first is that since it is a tall piece of furniture, I added hunger's to the back in case I want to ankle the shelving unit to the wall. First, I made small holes in the cardboard to make it easy inserting the screws. I added glue to the schools so that they would be well gripped inside. And also on the other side. If you add extras furniture, you should do this step before adding the faculty. The paper will add reinforcement to the things that you add. The second edition is, I realized that the shelving unit is eight centimeters shorter than what they mean. So I made an extra piece that is eight centimeters high because very important to have support inside and a lot of them because this addition will build the weight of the shelving unit. The height is eight centimeters. The width is the width of the shelving unit 92.5, but the depth is 22.5 in all 24 is the shelving unit. Because of the wall panel. It is PVA glue. So there is time to place the shelving unit and aligning exactly in place. Some books to give wet so that the glue texts a good Hold. The shelving unique is ready for the next day. I also made some storage boxes for the shelving unit. You can see a video about making boxes in Section six. 39. Smoothing and Painting the shelving unit: As usual, before painting, it is important to smooth everything. Carefully cut out all the hot glue residue, cartel protruding parts. After that, sand everything and if necessary feel holds. The video about filling holes is in Section five, preparing the surface. After the filling dries smooth. That too. Next step, Gump paper tape or simple paper and glue. There's quite a lot to do because you need to straighten all the joints of all the cells. Now the shelving unit is ready for painting. I chose to paint the shelving unit in white. I use a sponge. My favorite method of painting. Painting with a sponge is smoother in my opinion, and it's also easier to get into the corners because the sponge is flexible. But of course you can use a white brush and use it now oil brush in the inner corners. You need several coats of paint. You can also finish with a layer of varnish. You don't have to put the boxes in. There is a shelving unit that looks great. It is useful and it's hard to believe. It's made of cardboard. 40. Conclusion: If you've finished your project, be proud, even if you made mistakes along the way or maybe you fail, you could have done better. It doesn't matter. If it's your first piece of furniture, then you have already done better than a lot of other people. Share images of your creation with your friends and family and Baskin, the warm feeling of an amazing work done. People will be amazed that you made furniture from simple cardboard. Take a picture of your furniture and show it with tasks in the project gallery. I hope you enjoyed that class. And I really like to see what you will make.