How To Solder For Guitar Repair | Dylan Mckerchie | Skillshare

How To Solder For Guitar Repair

Dylan Mckerchie

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7 Lessons (38m)
    • 1. Intro

      1:56
    • 2. What is Soldering

      2:31
    • 3. Picking The Right Equipment

      11:05
    • 4. Soldering Our First Parts

      5:50
    • 5. Soldering Caps and pots

      7:35
    • 6. Review - Lets try it !

      3:59
    • 7. How To Solder Two Wires Together

      4:46
11 students are watching this class

About This Class

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In this class, we will learn the fundamentals of soldering specifically for guitar repair. There is not very much good information available about soldering specifically for guitar repair. We aim to change that with this basic soldering class.  

  • What soldering is
  • How to choose the correct equipment and supplies
  • Step by step how to and demos using the major components in a guitar

Understanding the concept of what soldering actually is can help to make it much easier to do. In this class, we will look at the concept, the equipment, and the important factors that will make soldering less frustrating and a lot more fun! 

Transcripts

1. Intro: if you're a guitar player or a bass player that wants to work on your own instrument, like not go to the repair shop is much. Do the things that you need to do. Change pots and caps do little wiring modifications, repair and output. Jack. All those sorts of things mean to need to learn how to Sauder. I've done a lot of research on the Internet, and I can't find really good saw during instruction, specifically four guitars. So that's what we're going to talk about today. In this course. My name is Dylan. I have company called Dylan talks tone in a YouTube channel. I'm really passionate about educating people on accurate information about how to work on the guitar, the repairs and the various things that go into your instruments. We have over a 1,000,000 1/2 views on YouTube, thousands of views every day. We have over 450 videos that help you to really understand how your guitar works. But what I wanted to do with this course was dive specifically into one subject that I think is really important. I think we all should learn how to starter and repair our own guitars. So here's what we're gonna learn today. What saw during actually is understand kind of get a visualization of what we're actually doing when we saw her. We're also going to look at the equipment that's required and find out that it has actually not that expensive to get started. And then we're gonna go step by step through each of the major components in an electric guitar, and I'm gonna show you hands on. And with the projects available below, you'll be able to do this yourself, and we'll all be able to share together and learning how to sauder each component and guitar. So volume pot a capacitor, an output jack a switch. By the end of this course, you'll get a firm grasp of how a sauder joint supposed to look how to do it and be able to repair your own guitar. Let's get started 2. What is Soldering: Let's start first with what saw Doring actually is. A lot of people equate saw uttering with welding, but that's not actually accurate. Welding is actually where you take two pieces of metal. You heat him up really hot, and they actually melt together in sauntering. We're not actually doing that. The only thing that melts when we saw her is the Sauder itself. Because what we're trying to do is we're trying to create a condition, and this is an interesting term called inter metallic bonding. So we're trying to do, believe it or not, it's kind of crazy, but we're trying to get particles of the metal to travel into each other and then bond together. This is important to understand, because when we're sauntering, we can kind of visualize then what is going on in the Sauder joint and understand how to compensate for it. If we don't have a good Sutter Joy, how do we do some inter metallic bonding when we saw her? Well, let's talk about what the Sauder is. So Sauder is 60% 10 and 40% less. Now it's gotta have some lead in there because leads easy to melt with heat the 10. The reason Tin is in there is actually very interesting, because when Tim gets really hot and it liquefies, it actually can break down other metals. Just a little bit. Metals like copper, brass and less so nickel. But it'll still breakdown Nichols. So here's what happens when we put Sauder onto a metal and it breaks down that very top layer of that metal. And then particles of the sauder actually kind of migrate or travel into that metal and it bonds. So the idea is is to heat both parts that were sauntering evenly so that we can get that inter metallic bond so that we can get some particles of that sauder to actually travel into or bond with. The surface that were sauntering to. This is usually pretty easy with most guitar components, because capacitor legs and potentially ometer legs and all the various things that we saw her, too, have high amounts of usually copper or brass in them. And so these are easy metals. To do this with Sada Ring is a game off, heating each component evenly to a temperature that allows for the Sauder to actually migrate into it. 3. Picking The Right Equipment: before we start slaughtering, we want to make sure that we have the right tools and equipment. And here's the thing. Having the right stuff makes this easier and you get better results. In the end, we have a lot of people that email us and ask us questions on the YouTube channel about sauntering, and they say I'm not getting good results. You make it look so easy in the videos, and the bottom line is this. If you have a good set of equipment and it's not expensive, I'll show you in a minute. If you have a good set of equipment, uh, everything will kind of come together a lot easier, and it won't be so frustrating. And I think that's what happens is we get frustrated. Maybe because we don't have the right stuff and it's not all set up correctly, and then we don't get the right results, and then it just it just gets really, really irritating. So let's talk about a few basic things that I think we all should have as either hobbyists or as professionals, and I will tell you that I even doing this every day in the shop, use this exact equipment that I'm about to show you. First of all, we need a good work area. This is sounds really funny, but I ordered this silicone mat off of Amazon. Now, this is a baking mat that you use to to put hot stuff from the oven. Like when you're baking, You put it on this matter. Well, it works really well because if you're going to, like, work, most of us are gonna work on our kitchen table or on a counter somewhere. This protects the table from Little Sauder, you know, blobs that might come off or, you know, you accidentally bump the sauntering iron or something because you want to be safe about all this. We're dealing with hot stuff, so the silicone mat works awesome. The other thing is, you know, it's I've got holes cut in it because I cut. I almost like play operation. So I put it on top of the guitar and I let the parts shine through the whole so that it will protect the rest of the Qatar from Sauder spatter and stuff like that. I don't know. It's just my little thing that I really like. There are expensive. Mawr expensive, like, specifically made for sod oring, Matt. But I find that this is really easy, and it folds up in stores. Really well. The other thing we need is we need to start our tip cleaner. Why would we use a proper brass sauder tip cleaner instead of just the sponge that comes with a lot of less expensive sauntering iron? Because if we use water to clean our sauder tip number one, it doesn't clean it as effectively, believe it or not. And number two, it corrodes it over time. So if you introduce moisture and steam off that sauder tip over and over, the Sauder tip will not last is long because it will corrode. I mean, I use I saw her every day, and I used the same sauder tip for I mean, probably a year, and I work every day with my soldering iron. So, um, using this, you get a lot more longevity out of it. It's not expensive. Okay, so we've got our starter tip cleaner. We need sauder. Let's talk about Sada. We use Castor 60 40 rosin core sauder. So let's talk about Sauder for just a minute. There are a lot of different kinds of Sauder and especially in the guitar world, in the guitar hobbyist repair, even professional repair world. You're gonna hear a lot of different kind of things about Sauder. So is Silver Sauder. Better for tone is 63 37. Better for tone. It's 60 40. All these various things, as we discussed in our what sauntering actually is module of this course. We understand that we gotta have some lead to let it melt easy. We gotta have 10 so that it will cause the action that we wanted to cause. And then we're adding one more little aspect to it. Right here we're adding rosin on the inside. Rosin literally is pine pitch and what it does when you heat it is, it turns very, very acidic. And the acidic property of rosin pine pitch when it's hot, is that it rids the metal surfaces that were about to sauder of any oxidizing or oils or anything like that. Now you'll hear a lot of people say that they use an additional amount of rosin like rosin paste, or they'll sand the back of, you know, like a pot or something to get things to stick better. None of that is necessary, even if you use emery cloth or sandpaper on the back of a pot. By the time you stodder it, the oxidation has already returned anyway. It's that fast, so it doesn't do any good. Any kind of benefit from doing that is kind of like just like a mental thing. And if you have to do that stuff, the reason is is because the heat transfer between items is not good and we'll get to that in the minute with the iron. So if you find yourself having to think that you have to sauder stuff and use extra rosin and all that sort of stuff, that's not actually the problem. The problem is somewhere else, and we'll get to that in just a second. But this is the sauder that I use. So 60 40 rosin core solder. I actually use the 0.31 inch sauder. Now they're sticker cider and there's thinner cider. We get this question all the time in our inbox. What? What should you use? Ah, you go thinner than this. But the problem is, is then you have you have to have this really long strand and it in leer feeding it really , really fast. I found that the 0.31 for me personally gives me the right feeds being where I can. Actually, I don't have to feed it so quickly, but if I go with a larger diameter, it makes more of a mess. So this to me, is the best combination for the type of work that we're doing with specifically guitar components. Now, if you're doing something else, you know, smaller than you might need different Sauder. If you're doing something a lot larger, you know, like electric motor terminals or something, you might need a bigger diameter. But for guitar stuff, 0.31 60 40 Kester is the stuff that we use. Well, let's talk about the big fund, the sauntering iron. There's all kinds of different saw during irons available to use for sauntering. You notice? I'm saying specifically sauntering iron, not suffering gun. Don't use one of these on your guitar. There is a coil in there. And when you pull that trigger, if you have that around your pickups I have seen it. I have tried it I have done it. It can kill magnets in a pickup. Don't use that thing on your guitar. Use it correctly scaled and proper sauntering iron. The reason these work different is because the heating element is a ceramic element in most of them. Instead of this big transformer that can kill your pickups. Don't use that thing on your guitar. So this is what I use. This is a well or sauntering iron. There's a 40 watt side Oring iron comes on a base, it has a eighth inch spade tip on it, and I literally adjust it to 3.5, and I leave it there all the time for everything that I do in a guitar. This is a fantastic saddling iron. At the time of making this video, there's a link, um, down there that you can see the current pricing on this. But at the time of making this class, this was only $40 American. Let's talk about why you would want a 40 watt iron instead of like a 5 to 15 watt iron. Remember the old RadioShack irons that you could get on the cardboard and they had cost five or $10. Well, the reason you need mawr wattage is not because you want more heat. It's not mawr heat. They all get to, you know, 758 100 degrees when you turn them on. The difference in the wattage, though, is when we put the sauntering iron onto an object some of the heat that the siring Airness making, then get soaked into the object. That's how sauntering works, right? We want to have heat transfer into that object into the Saudi and then into the other object as evenly as possible. The bigger those objects are, the more heat get soaked into those objects. So, like the back of a potentially ometer, for instance, is pretty big when we put this on the back of a potentially ometer heat get soaked. This is not on right now. Get soaked from here out into the object that were sauterne. If we don't have enough wattage, it gets soaked out, and it can't keep up with what we're trying to Sauder. It can't keep everything at the correct temperature. To Sauder correctly 40 to 60 watt iron is sufficient for basically everything that we do in guitar stuff. sauntering on the back of pots, Jax wires, all that kind of stuff. Typically 40 to 60 watt iron is enough. This is a 40 watt iron. Like I said, I leave it on 3.5 toe have in the right heat range that I really like and it does just fine . And this is the actual iron that we're gonna use in our activities as we go through the demonstrations of how to starter each particular component in the guitar coming up. There's a lot of other little tools we could talk about helping hands. In fact, we should talk about helping hands one of the things and well you'll see in the demonstration portions of this course that helping hand are beneficial because you want to make sure that you keep everything as still as possible. One of the main failures in sauntering today is that you cannot hold the components correctly and they move just a little bit and then you have a failed sauder joint. I'll show you that in action when we do these demonstrations of each of the components. But just know that we need to make sure that we hold everything it still is possible. So a set of helping hands is pretty cool toe. Have I personally don't use them because I made a couple of other little jigs because I do this every day and I'll show you with some free junk around your house, how you could make some some jigs yourself specifically for working on guitar stuff. When we get into the demonstrations, I'll show you what I'm talking about. It's kind of comical, but it works and I really like it. And it was free with some just junk I had in the garage. So we have our saw during our we have our sauder. We have our sauder tip cleaner and we have our work. Matt, let's get some components and start doing this. 4. Soldering Our First Parts: All right. So let's do some sod, Oring, where you want to start? Let's start with our output, Jack. The output Jack is probably one of the most replaced components on a guitar because it does wear out over time. So I'm gonna show you since we're talking about helping hands in our last video, this is just a piece of door trim that I had laying around the house and I drilled three holes in it. The reason I drilled three holes in it is because if you want to build a Telecaster control plate, which I build a lot of the switch and the two holes fit perfectly in here, let's talk about sauntering. In practical terms, we want to make sure that when we sauder this output jack, that it stays still. It has to. In order for this all to work, there has to be transfer of heat from the tip of the sauntering iron to heat up properly the output jack as well as heat evenly at the same time. The wire that's in the hole, the output Jack is a bigger surface area than the small wire. You probably want to concentrate your heat on the output jack side and then heat the wire at the same time. You want to touch both of them, so the output jack and the wire at the same time. To do this the most effectively, you'll notice that this sauntering iron has about eighth of an inch flat tip on it. When were sauntering stuff? We don't want to put the sauntering iron straight up and down like this. We want to lay it on its side on whatever were sauntering so that the heat transfers into that object. There's a couple things that can go wrong when we saw her and out project. If we just stick the wire in and the whole, it's kind of loose in the hole and we try to transfer heat from the sauntering iron to the output Jack. We can do that because the output jackets still, but then the whole the wire will wiggle in the terminal, and it will give us a cold Sattar joint, and it can result in like this hard edge around the cider joint, where it doesn't actually spread completely into the metal around the hole. So that means we want to make sure that when we do this, we actually make it to where the wire doesn't move by, like propping it or like pushing it behind something else so that it does not move. And that holds firmly against the output, Jack. And then when we touch the saw during iron to it and then the Sauder shortly after that, the heat is transferring through all three objects at the same roughly the same rate, and you'll see that when you touch the Sauder to it, it's almost instantaneous. This is where a lot of people will ask me like Well, you make it look so easy. I sit there and fight with it. Three things to think about. Is your soldering iron hot enough? Does it have the wattage to make sure that it will actually transfer heat through whatever object you are sauntering number one number two? Are you holding it in such a way that the most heat can transfer from the sauntering iron to the object? Remember, not on end like this, but on the side like this, and take advantage of that flat spot on the tip because that flat spot actually will transfer heat over a larger area and number three are the objects that you're trying to sauder completely still. And are they touching each other firmly so that when you heat one object, the heat transfers to all the objects evenly? Those are the three things I would make sure that you check. You want heat to transfer through all three objects evenly The wire, the jack and the sauntering iron. You want everything to just heat up kind of all together. Apply the Sauder boom. Now how hot is too hot. I like to start with this thing on 3.5. That gives me somewhere around 650 degrees. The sauntering iron is powerful enough to stay hot, even were doing larger things. And hotter and faster is better, in my opinion, because the longer you sit with the sauntering iron on something, the more undesired heat in areas of all the other components. You don't want heat. We just wanted at that very point where you're about to make that sauntering joint. So once we get a good one, notice what it looks like. It's nice and smooth and shiny all the way around the saw during joint there are no lines, cracks or any kind of small fissures, and you see the little black flecks in there. That's where the rosin has actually pushed oxidation out of the sauntering joint and kept it very clean. You notice we didn't have to use extra flux, and we didn't have to use any kind of sandpaper anything. Try this yourself. Make sure that you get your output jack and your wire and clip off the wire cleanly like you know, if if the wires all afraid and hard to with hard to manage, then grab your wire clippers and give yourself a nice clean edge. Put it through that hole prior to the side a little bit and make sure that it's firmly sat in there. And then when you touch the iron to it, that's already heated flat side of the iron. Touch the Sauder and you'll see it actually flow like pull itself into where it wants to go . There will be no pushing it. There's no extra pressure. There's no trying to make it happen. When you get this right, you'll know it, and you'll feel it because that Sauder will actually literally just draw right in tow where it's supposed to go, give it a shot and then show us and let me know what your results are. And if you have trouble, let me know and let's try to figure it out. 5. Soldering Caps and pots: All right. So the next component that we're gonna talk about and this is probably a little bit more difficult is pot. So first of all, let's discuss how we don't do damage to pots understanding how to sauder to the back of a pot. The it's important for a few reasons. One is that usually we're all of our ground to go. So we want to make sure that our grounds are really good. Otherwise the guitar won't work right. You'll have problems. So we want to make sure that our grounds are good. So those are the Sutters had to be good. The other thing is, is that if we heat this up too much, sometimes we can do damage to it, depending on the pot design. So there are certain brands of pots that have like a little shaft in there and some parts against the back here that if you get him too hot for too long, you could do damage to him. I use born spots. I don't typically have that issue, but you got to be aware of it because you can do damage to the internal workings of the pot . If you over he it for too long. So learning how to Saudi runs correctly is really, really important for a lot of reasons. First of all, let's talk about just saw during the islets, those air very similar and pretty much the same exact concept as the output Jack that we just shared in our last module. So you can use the same concept on the island of the of the pot as you would with and out project, because it's just an island. Same thing. One of the things you have to do with a pot when, especially when you're making a volume pot, does he have to bend over that one terminal right there and then sauder that terminal to the ground. One thing that Sauder doesn't like to do is it doesn't like to jump gaps. So if you bend that pot terminal back and it doesn't touch depending on the brand of the pot, if it doesn't touch the case of the pot, then you're going to jump that terminal that jump that gap. Now a lot of people will try to actually pile a bunch of sauder on there and then make that bridge across. It's not very effective. It's very difficult to do, and I wouldn't depend on it. So I'm gonna show you a trick. Here's what I would do. Stick a wire through it and then sauder it to the back of the pot and then pull the insulation back and in Saada it to the terminal. Now, one thing you'll have to remember when you do this is to use the flat side of the iron and put it onto the pot and put Sauder onto the pot first and then hold the wire into the sauder and boom. It'll happen just by itself. A lot of people have a hard time suffering to the backs of pots, and this is where people say, Well, you have to sand at first and you have to use more flux and all this kind of stuff. You don't have to do any of that as long as it's not dirty, so just make sure it's clean. New pots that come in a bag are usually clean enough. You don't have to worry about any of this. How are we gonna start it to the back of a pot? We use the flat side of the iron. We're going to apply heat to the back of the pot with the flat side of the iron until it starts to take. Sauder. Remember, in our last module, we talked about when it's hot enough, and when the heat is transferring correctly, it will take Sauder by itself. There will be no pushing, no extra pressure, none of that kind of stuff. It'll just sort of draw in. And typically, what I like to do is leave a little pool of sauder on the back of the pot first and then attached the wires or the capacitor or anything else to that pool of Sauder that have already established with the heat. Remember that we don't want to do damage to the back of the pot. So while it may seem a little bit more difficult if you're iron has enough heat in it. And if you've done this correctly or using the flat side of the iron, uh, I like to actually apply the heat and most of the sauder to the corner of the outside of the pot. This will take. This will keep a lot of the potential for damaging the pot away because it's on that outside corner. It doesn't require a little more heat, but if you were doing all of this correctly like we've talked about, it will literally take Justin Instant. Let's under the lists that are a cap to our tone pot with one side's pretty easy because it's just the wire that goes through the hole. Just like our output. Jack or a wire into a normal wire were using the lay of the cap instead in this case, so I make sure that you been that leg so that it again holds very tightly against the pot. Legs are easy to bend so you can bend it around and make sure that it's holding very tightly against the side of the pot so that when you apply heat to it, it transfers evenly from the iron to the pot to the leg of the the capacitor. All at the same time. I want to make sure that this is set up correctly ahead of time because this is one of those things where you don't wanna have that component too hot for too long. If you do it right, it will just be a touch and another touch of Sauder and you're done. You won't overheat the capacitor and potentially do damage to it. A lot of people get really paranoid about doing damage to capacitors, most of them that we use in our guitars today pretty easy. And they can hold up to the amount of heat that we're talking about with this tottering. Now let's bend the capacitor around the other side sauder it to the back of the pot. This is another example of what I just we just discussed a few minutes ago where we can put a pool of sauder on the back of the pot, right on the corner just like that, and then hold the leg down into that pool of Sauder. Maybe touch it with another little dab asada, and it will actually suck itself right in to that pool on the back of the pot. You notice how when we do this with these components, it's just an instant of time. We're not getting everything really, really hot. The heat is actually staying fairly local toe where we're doing it. We're not worrying about heating up components and stuff, some old capacitors and some types of capacitors, like a tropical fish clay style capacitor, for instance, is really really susceptible to heat, so you could put a piece of put it alligator clip between your soldering iron and the case of the capacitor to act as a heat sink. The problem doing that is that it acts as a heat sink, and so you actually have to put mawr heat into it to SAH'tar it. I don't recommend doing that. What I recommend doing is just following this method of putting a pool of sauder on the back of the pot, briefly pushing that into that pool of Sauder. And if, like I said, use the flat side of your iron at the correct heat. This will all kind of happened by itself and in an instant, and you won't damage the capacitor. Now you go give it a try, take a take a volume pot. Uh, take a capacitor, maybe some wire, and see if you can try doing those three things saw during a wire into the islet of the pot . Try saw during the ground from that bent over terminal on the back on the pot to the back of the pot, and then try saw during a wire to the back of a pot. Then take a capacitor and try saw during the capacitor first in the eye of the pot and then bend it around in Saada it to the back of the pot. So now you'll have the two basic kind of component building skills to be able to do a guitar of volume pot and atone pot. 6. Review - Lets try it !: Well, there you go. Sauntering components in a guitar. Hopefully, this helped you to get kind of the fundamental idea about how to do it. You know, we didn't do tons and tons of demos like over and over and over, sauntering pots and switches and caps and all that stuff. I don't know if you noticed that he probably did that. We spent more time really talking about the fundamentals of what sauntering actually is and how it works. So going over those just as a review, these are probably the main things that I would focus on as you practice sauntering because practices what it's going to take. Just get a bunch of parts and some Sauder and an iron some of those supplies, and just start trying it and look at your results and share your results. Actually, and we'll talk about kind of the idea behind a bad SAH'tar versus a good sauder and what that means, what it looks like and you'll feel and see it. As you get the hang of sauntering. Just be patient and let's talk about some of the fundamentals that will make this kind of easier and go easier for you. So, first of all, good. Have a good iron that puts out about 40 watts. Okay, at least that this one This what this Weller that we use? I like to keep it on 3.5. It's plenty hot. It works perfectly. You saw in the videos that it's just like an instant of time, and it works. Why? Because we had clean surfaces. We had parts that did not move. That's a big one. People get really frustrated because they think they have to heat stuff up so much. But if the heat is transferring between the components correctly, which means the components have to be touching together and they have to be not moving once you have those two things going for you than a hot iron on its flat side to transfer the most heat possible. And a touch of sauder is all you need, no pressure, no overheating of components. And if you also notice we didn't use any of those wacky sort of things like extra, you know, flux or sanding any parts or anything like that, it was just good, efficient heat transfer. Go back to the beginning of what sauntering actually is. Look at that illustration of how we're trying to just get small particles of metal to transfer into the other metal through even heat distribution. If you can just kind of visualize that while you're sauntering and think about the things that will cause that to not happen and minimize those than your suffering will get better and better and better. It just goes back to the same thing over and over again. Consistent heat parts that don't move and that firmly touch each other, have a good mechanical kind of fit. Before you start slaughtering loose Jakey parts and not enough heat, consistent heat is gonna be your biggest enemy. Share your projects below and we would love to see as you practice sauntering and how we could help you get better at it. It's just a matter of practice. Thanks for hanging out with us. My name is Dylan. Check out our YouTube channel if you have any other questions about any of this kind of stuff. If you have another idea for a course like this, let me know. You can find more information about what we do at Dillon talks tone dot com at our YouTube channel at Dillon Talks Tone Instagram at Dillon Talks Tone and Facebook, a Dylan talks tone. I hope to see you soon on the Internets and doing your projects below, so that we can all share as we progress in this fun thing, sauntering and working and repairing our guitars. 7. How To Solder Two Wires Together : Well, guess what. Let's add another module to this online course on sauntering. So we are going to talk about sauntering two wires together, basically called like a but connection a lot of time. So, you know, you see people that will just twist two wires together, able put tape around it. We don't want that in a guitar. We want really nice, clean but connection. And a lot of times people will kind of God these up, so I'll show you how kind of less is more and how we can do it very quickly. So a couple of notes before we get started, make sure that we use ah, heated sauntering iron that is not still warming up. Okay, so if we're using an effective sauntering iron one that we've mentioned in the list of this you know this video Siri's, um that Weller. I put it on about 3.5, and I make sure that it is all the way heated up. We don't want it to be kind of warm because let's well, let's just get into it. So here's what we want to dio here. I'll show you why, because what we want to do here is we want to strip our wires back about not quite 1/4 of an inch, like in between an eighth and 1/4 of an inch, which I guess, in millimeters. I'm thinking in millimeters probably, uh, 3 to 5 millimeters on each wire. And then what we're gonna do, actually, was we're gonna apply Sauder to the wire first. Not so much Sauder that it's gonna gobble up, but we're actually going to just because what will happen is as we heat the wire, the Sauder will actually draw into the wire. But if we don't use a soldering iron, that's hot enough. We spend too much time doing this, and it will actually melt the insulation further and further back. You've probably done that to a wire by accident. I've done it many, many times. If you have this side are ready and you have a heated iron, it will just be a quick touch. So let's go ahead and do that. We've got to these air basically hum bucker wires that we would very small. This is like the kind of some of the smallest wire that you would put in a guitar hooking up your home bunkers. And so you might want to do this if you're hooking up a switch or doing something like that . So here we have to hum bunker wires and we just touch the Sauder and the heat to one side. And then we touched the Sauder and the Heat to the other side. Once that's done, we've got Sauder kind of already in the wires. It's called pre Tinning, So now we take, We put the Sauder down and we don't even have this honoring our hands anymore. Um, and then we go ahead and we touched the Sauder to both wires together. And just in an instant, they become one unit. Notice that it's just an instant. That's the main key here is don't use too much heat, especially with this kind of wire, because you just kind of make a burned up mess. Now you're going to say I know, but it's way harder to do it when it's actually in the guitar. I agree. So here's what I would suggest. Get yourself one of these will put a link to it in in the video description kind of on our tool list. I think it might be there already, actually, um, this kind of like multi arm system that you'll be able to actually bend over and be able to put the wires where you want them. Super super key. All right, so let's go ahead and move to our cloth. Wear basically the same concept. However, quality cloth wire is pretend already, so you don't have to add very much. Sauder. You notice you can barely even see it on the wire. So we touch one. We touched the other and we put the sauder. Now we don't even have it in her hands. We actually touched both wires together. We touched both wears with heat at the same time they become one unit just in an instant. Same exact thing. Direct heat, correct placement. Make sure you can hold everything together still and not have it Move around on you kind of the same principle in all the other sauntering videos that we've talked about. And boom, you have to sodders making a but connector and it won't come apart. Don't forget before you saw her the stuff but your shrink tubing on there so that you can slide it over afterwards and have a nice, clean heat shrunk joint. If you forget, then you won't be able to put it out there. So make sure you don't forget to do that. There you go. Thanks for hanging out and talking about. But Sodders? Is that what it's called? Yeah, sauntering butt joints dealing. Talk stone on a scale share course. Thanks for hanging out.