Transcripts
1. Intro: If you've ever looked at a pair of hand knit
socks and thought, I wish I could make those, you're in the right place. Sock knitting looks complicated, but once you understand
the process, it becomes a fun, portable and surprisingly quick project. Hi, my name is Isabella Zebec. I'm a maker, knitwaar
designer, and teacher. In this class, I will teach
you all the essentials you need to knit your first pair of socks with confidence. Learning this skill is
great because socks are one of the most practical and
rewarding knit products. They use only a small
amount of yarn. They make amazing gifts, and the techniques
you will learn, especially the magic Loop, will help you create other
small circumference products like mittens and hats. By the end of this class, you will be able to choose the right yarn and tools
for sock knitting. Swatch for knitting
in the round, work an elastic old
Norwegian custom, kt using the magic
loop technique, make simple decreases, understand basic
sock construction, and finish and block your socks so they
are ready to wear. I'm really excited to
teach this class because sock knitting is one of my
favorite types of projects. It's beginner friendly for knitters who already
know the basics, but still interesting and
incredibly satisfying. This class is created
for kniters who already know the basics
like how to knit, pearl and work in the round, but are new to knitting socks. If you're a total beginner, feel free to check out one of my beginner friendly
classes first. You will also get
a class guidebook with alternative tools and learn suggestions plus a
full sock pattern so you can follow
along step by step. You will end the class with
your first handmade sock and the skills to make many
more. Let's get started.
2. Class Project and Resources: The project in
this class will be to knit a pair of simple socks. Follow along with me using the
knitting pattern to create the simple two colored
socks or make them all in one color or in more
colors if that's your jam. Remember to download
the class resources, which is the knitting pattern and a list of tools
and supplies. Next, we'll go through the
necessary tools and supplies.
3. Tools and Supplies: Let's talk about
the supplies you will need to knit
your pair of socks. First, the yarn. We will be
using fingering weight yarn, so category one, super fine. There are lots of
dedicated sock yarns available on the market, which are usually a blend of
wool and nylon or polyamide. The addition of synthetic helps with the durability
of the socks. If you'd like to knit your socks from no synthetic added yarn, there are a few
options available. You will find a few listed
in the class guide. But generally, these
yarns are either made of 100% special breed of sheep wool that give more durable yarn
or have some other additives. For example, nettle. You can knit socks
from 100% marinool. However, they will be less
durable as marino is delicate. If you want your socks
to be mostly home socks, you can absolutely
give it a try. When choosing your yarn, check the care
instructions on the label. Many soak yarns
are super washed, which means that they
are machine washable, while others have
to be hand washed. If being able to
wash your socks in the machine is important to you, be sure to choose yarn that
will withstand this process. Our socks will be
kne in two colors, so you will need
two colors of yarn. For the amount that depends on the size of your
socks and the length, however, sock yarns
are usually sold in either 50 gram or
100 grams cans. For the main color,
you will need two small 50 grams cans
or one big 100 gram. For the contrast color, one small 50 grams can will
be enough for any size. If you would like to knead
the socks in one color, 100 gram of yarn
should be enough. Next, the needles. We will knead the socks with
magic loop method, which is a method of knetting small circumference items like socks with long
circular needles. I kit my socks with
2.5 millimeter, so S 1.5 circular needles
with 80 to 100 centimeters, which is 32 to 40 inch cable. However, achieving correct
gauge is important with socks, so they are not too
loose and not too tight. Be sure to check your gait before knitting your first socks following the gait and switching lesson to avoid disappointment. Now that if you can't achieve cage with the 2.5
millimeter needles, you may need to go
down a few sizes to 2.25 millimeter
or two millimeter if you get less stitches
in swatch than me, or you would need to
go up to 2.75 or three millimeter needle if you get more stitches in
your swatch than me. You may be surprised
that we will be using such small needles when the yarn label recommends 3.5 millimeter needles for
fingering weight yarn. Using needles a couple
sizes smaller for socks is a regular practice because it allows to create fabric
that is more dense, which means more durable. Last, you will need
some notions, scissors, tape measure, tapestry needle, and a stitch marker,
if you wish. You will also need a
piece of waste yarn, but you can use a piece
of contrast yarn. Now that you know what supplies
you need to have ready, let's talk briefly about
the sock construction.
4. Sock Construction: You know what let's go quickly over the
construction of our sock. This construction is a variation of so called afterthought heel, which means that the heel is made at the end of
the knitting process, so at the end of
knitting the soak. So in terms of the order, we will knit our soak, starting from the
calf down to the toe. So we will cast on stitches, join them to work in the round, and starting to create a tube. First in the ribbing
pattern to create the calf that will help our
sock to stay on the leg, and then intoking it
stitch for the leg. The heel. So we will insert a
piece of waste yarn to mark the place where
the heel will go in later. Afterwards, we'll
continue knitting the tube in the foot section
in stocking that stitch, and then we will work the
toe using the creases on either side to
create a wedge shape. And as the last
step, we will grab the stitches to close
the toe without seeming. Then as a last
step, we'll pick up the stitches around
the placeholder and then we will work in the heel in a very similar way to
creating the toes. It's also a wedge
shape for the heel. How to choose Good
size for your socks.
5. Working with Pattern: Working with knitting patterns can seem intimidating at first, but let's cover some basics. In the pattern, you will find usually some quick
description of the kit, and then a range of sizes
that the pattern covers. Pay attention to the
format of listing the sizes because later
on in the pattern, any stage count or
operations that differ per size will be listed
in analogical way. This pattern covers
three set sizes of sock circumferences and
recommends one to 2.5 centimeter, so approximately half
to 1 " of negative e. This simply means that the soak should be that much smaller than your actual foot. To choose a size for
you, measure your foot. Take a tape measure and wrap it around the foot
just before the toes. Then subtract the
proposed negative e and choose the size
closest to the result. For the length of the sock, with this pattern, it's
completely customizable. So you will just work the
sock as long as it's needed. As a rule of thumb,
most people find that socks approximately
1 centimeter, so around half an
inch shorter than their actual foot length are
most comfortable to them. With your first pair
of handled socks, it might be really tricky to know what is the absolute
best size for you, so you kind of need to take
a bit of chance on that. The truth is commercially
available socks usually come in just two
adult sizes for women, so we don't have that much
of a choice day to day. Next in the pattern, you will find a list of
tools and supplies. Yardage needed of yarn here is listed in the same
way as for the sizes. So you know how much yarn you
need for your chosen size. For example, if you
choose size two, which is the middle size and the first one
within the parenthesis, you will need 250 meters of the main color yarn and 110
meters of contrast coolor. Next, you will find
listed the gauge. The tension that is listed here is the base of all the
calculation of this design, and to achieve the
listed dimensions, so the correct size, you must achieve the same gauge. This is why swatting
is so important. Sometimes there is a section of pattern nodes with additional
tips or information. Then abbreviations to keep
the knitting pattern concise, short and easy to read, many techniques that are often
repeated are abbreviated. Some of those are
used very widely, like K for net and P for Pearl. The more you use patterns, the more used to abbreviations
and the form you become, and it will get so
much easier to follow. Next, finally, the instructions. The pattern lists step
by step what to do. Which technique to use, how many stitches to work, and in what order or stitch pattern. You can compare the
written instructions with the video work through in
this class as a practice. As you can see the stitch camps, like how many stitches
to cast on are listed again in the same
format as the sizes. If you print out your patterns, you can highlight the
numbers referring to your size if it makes it
easier for you to follow. Let's have a look at
another instruction. Round one, asterisks,
according to abbreviations, mean a portion to repeat. So in that round, we
would need one stage, perl one stitch, and repeat
that until end of the round. So knit one per one, knit one per one, and so on. During knitting the socks, I will be showing you
all the techniques and parts of knitting
the socks on video. However, I will
always ask you to refer to the pattern
for your stitch count. That's because I will
be making a size one, while you could be making a different size and need to make some operation
different amount of times or work different
amount of stitches. So it's really
important that you understand how the sizes are listed and that you can follow the skittitch counts for
your particular size. In the next lesson, we
will create a swatch to measure the gait before
diving into knitting the sock.
6. Gauge And Swatching: As you probably already know, sweating is really important
for following the patterns. It allows you to make sure that the finished dimensions of your item will be as
designed as expected. This is especially important for garments or
accessories that you wear. So it's also important for
socks so that the size is good for you so that they stay on and they arm too loose, and also on the other hand,
so they are not too tight. It's really worth
to make a sweat. And the swatch should be made exactly as you work
the finished item. So if the sock will be
worked in the round, then you should switch
in the round as well. Frankly, socks are quite small, so probably you wouldn't want to work like a full tube
swatch, like I have here. Of course, you can, but if you do it, it
takes a bit of time. You already could have
the leg almost finished. So definitely you can work
simply the sock in the round and after I 10 centimeters so 4 " just to measure your gauge, but how I like to do it, which is faster, is to
work just half of it. It's faster and also uses
less yarn which is important. So it's basically
a big loose chord. So I will show you very quickly
how to work this switch. So I will not be making
the full swatch for the sake of time because yeah, this would be exactly the
same in concept as this one, except we'll be working
in plain stoking it. If you make a lot of soak and always use the
same types of yarn, probably after some time, you will know exactly
what your gauge is. So we will cast on
however many stitches. I like to use long t custom
because it's just quick. So with your preferred
method, refer to the pattern, how many stitches fit into
the 10 centimeters or 4 ". For the gauge
listed by designer, cast on a few more stitches
so you can measure your gauge on the
internal stitches. I will just cast on a few
just to show you the concept. Okay. So I cast
on some stitches. And now instead of flipping
it to work flat or whatever, I'm simply sliding the stitches to the other end of the needle. If you are not
working on circulars, you can just move them manually from one needle to the other. And I'm grabbing
the working yarn leaving some slack here. And I need all of those stitches. Okay. When I finish knitting
the stitches, again, I either move them
manually to my left needle or sliding to the other
end of the needle, which I like more because
it's easier and faster. Again, leaving some
slack of yarn. And as you can see, we are always working on
the right side of work. So this is mimicking
working the round. So we need a lot
of the stitches. When you work, the
side stitches, the edge stitches
can be a bit wonky, but just pull on this yarn and
they should be closing up. So this is how it
works in concept. You always slide the
stitches back to your left hand needle and you always work on the
right side of the work. And in the end, you
will have this kind of semitube then you should block the swatch the same way that you would be
blocking the fish item, and you can either keep
the back floats intact if they are the correct
length or if they are too short and it's really hard
for you to measure the gauge, you can just cut them open
so that your swatch is flat. Move along with
creating your swatch and measuring your
tension to see if it's fine and in line with the gauge listed in the pattern. If not, you can manipulate
with the needle size. The socks with fingering
weight yarn are often kit on needles between 2
millimeters to 2.75 millimeters. So that's what you can do. Or if the difference
is not too big, you can just go ahead and see how it works out
in terms of size. See you in the next lesson where we will start knitting our
7. Elastic Cast On: We will start kneading
our sock from the calf, which is an elastic part that helps to keep
the sock on your leg. And I will be using my contrast
color to knit the calf. We will knit it in
one by one rib. So knit one pearl one pattern. But if you'd like to do some modifications and
use a different ribbing, of course, go ahead
and make it happen. To start our sock, we will use an elastic custom so that we can easily
wear the sock later on and have no trouble
getting it up our leg. My favorite elastic
custom technique is the old Norwegian custom, and this is what I will
show you in this class. So this type of caston
is a long tail custom, which means we will have to estimate the necessary length of the yarn tail before
starting the caston. And to do so, I will take
the yarn and wrap it around my needle ten times. Okay. Then I keep with my fingers
the end of this part. And this is the
necessary yarn length that I will need to
cast on ten stitches. So I measure as many multiples of this length as
many stitches I need. I need to cast on 56
ditches for my size. So I will measure six
times this length. I have this length measured. So now I will position my yarn between my thumb
and index fingers, like for a regular
long tail custom, I will grab the two tails
with my remaining fingers, and then I will
take the needle and wrap it around the urn. Like so. This will be our
first stitch. Okay. Then to cast on next stitches, I will take my needle, move it under both of
the thumb strands, then insert the needle
between those two. Catch the next to my index
finger and take the needle back into the loop and
release. One more time. Spread the arm
between your fingers. Take the needle under
both of the strands, insert it between those two. Catch the strength
of your needle and back between those
two and release. Okay. One more
time, a bit closer. Take the needle under both strands into the
loop between those two. Catch the strand and back
into the loop and pull up. One more time. Take the needle below those two into the loop. Catch the strand
and inside again. It may take a bit of time to get a hang of
this new technique, but it's really worth to learn it because it produces
an elastic edge, and you can use this cast
on for socks, mittens, hats, whatever needs
to be elastic. Okay, so continue casting
on this way until you have all the necessary stitches for your size cast on. Okay.
8. Cuff and Leg: All right. I have all
of my stitches custom, and I will be showing you
how to knit socks with the magic loop technique
using a long circular needle. And to work with this technique, we need to divide
our stitches into half that half of our
stitches will be on one needle and the second half will be on the other needle. So to do that, simply count half
of the stitches. Move it into the
cable, so it's easier. Mark the spot where there
is half of your stitches. Bend the cable carefully and
pull it out in this spot. Like so. Okay, then move the stitches onto needle and the second half on
the other needle. Make sure that the
stitches aren't twisted. Okay. So this is the situation that
we have now on the needles. So we have half of the stitches on each needle and they are connected
in one spot. So now to work the first
round with magic loop, position your needle so that the stitches that were
cast on last are on the needle that is more
far away from you. So on this needle, find your bull yarn end. You will be working
with it. Okay. You could use a stitch marker to mark the beginning
of the round. However, I never do it when working with
magic loop technique. The yarn tail is really helpful because this is
where the round begins. So I use that to understand where my
beginning of the round is. In this technique,
we will always work the stitches that are located on the needle
that is closer to us. So we will pull the needle out of the second
half of the stitches. Be careful so that there
is enough cable left on the left side so that your stitches don't
join into one big part. Okay. Then simply work the stitches
on this front needle. So as I mentioned, my cuf
will be one by one rip, so I start by knitting
the first stitch. Be careful of the first stitch. We want to make it a little
bit tighter so that there is no long yarn strand left in between because this is the side of our soak
where we will join. But we also don't want
it to be super tight because we will have to work
into it in the next round. So pearl the second stitch. Knit one Pearl one. So knit one pearl one until
all of the stitches on this needle are worked. Okay. So I finished working the
stitches on my front needle, and now I will reposition my needles so I can
work the second half. Due to that, I turn
around my knitting. I pull up this needle to insert it into the second
half of the stitches. I grab my yarn, working yarn, and again, I pull out the
needle that is in the back. And I work the second half of the stitches in
exactly the same way. So knit one, pearl one. And again, the first stitch
that is close to the joint, I make sure to work
it a bit tighter. Okay, so I finished, so again, I reposition my needles. So the stitches that I just worked are on the back needle, let's say, and the stitches to work are on the front needle. Okay. So again, let's pull the back needle out and work the stitches
on the front needle. So I will work again in this
kat one pearl one pattern, making sure to work a bit
tighter this side stitch. And in general, I will work my calf in contrast color
for nine rounds in total. So you can work languidly and knit also nine rounds in this
pattern in contrast color, or you can also make a
longer calf if you wish. Okay, so as you can see, maybe already in
this small piece, we are knitting in the
round, small circumference. Our work is joined
on both sides. Yeah. Okay, so let's knead all of the calf in the contras coolor
until we have nine rounds, and then we will move
to the leg section. Okay, so now it's time
for our leg section. So I will start by
joining our main color. So this main color that I want
to have my sock in for me, it will be the light pink blush. If you want, you can already
cut the contrast color. However remember to leave a
tail to within at the end. If you are still
not sure if this is the amount of
ribbing that you like and just want to work a little bit
more before you decide, you can still keep it
on before cutting it. Okay, so I'm joining
my main color. And the first round, I will work again in
this ribbing pattern, so knit one pearl one. Why? Because our live stitches now are in the contrast color. So whatever pattern I need, now it will affect
the contrast color, and I really want to
have it like uniform. So this is how I work. Keep the tail of the
contrast color with your fingers so that it
doesn't slide too much. Okay, and work one round in
the same ribbing pattern. Okay. One round is worked. The spot of the color
change will be a bit wonky. You can just tag on the
yarn tails a bit to make it more structured. Okay. So now our live stitches
are in the main color, so it start to knit the leg
section in the main pattern. For me, for this pattern,
it's plain stockinet. So these are basic socks. So I will just knit all of the stitches in
the next rounds, and I will knit my leg until it is around 9 centimeters long, so it's around 3.5 "
together with the calf. Again, the first couple of rounds after this color change, it can be a little tricky with the stitch is coming loose, but just tag on the ends and, yeah, that should
be stabilized soon. Okay, so knit all the
stitches in the round, working stocking stitch until your leg is as long as needed. It's pretty straightforward,
so I will not be filming this part for you
so you don't get bored. When you finish knitting
your leg section, simply move to the next
lesson where we will prepare our sock for the heel and we
will kit our foot section.
9. Heel Placement and Foot: Okay. After completing
the leg section, it's time for the hell. As you know, from the
construction lesson, in this type of soak, we will the hell
as the last step. However, now we need to make this placeholder for the heel. And to do that, we
will knit across our first needle so we will knit across
the front stitches, the front half of the stitches. And for the second
half of the stitches, so for the back, we will
take a piece of waste yarn. For me, it's a piece of the contrascolor yarn because this is what I have on hand. You can use different yarn. Just remember that it should
be in contrast color so then you can locate it easily, and it should be the same
weight of weight of yarn. If you are using fingering
weight for socks, the waist yarn should
also be fingering weight. Okay, so let's join this yarn. Leave a bit of tail here and simply knit our stitches on the second half
with this yarn. So we have worked all of the stitches
with the waist yarn, and what we will do now is we'll move the stitches
back to the left hand needle. So just insert your needle into each stitch one at a
time, and move it back. Remember not to twist them, just simply move them from
right to left needle. When all of the
stitches are back, we will work them again. However this time with our main colour
yarn, so the target. So we will continue
working the stitches. Make sure that this
tail is on the outside. Okay, let's just kit all of those stitches once more. Okay. Now let's turn. And now is
the time to work the foot. The foot will be just knitting the stitches
with our main color, so we will return to
this main pattern. If you are using different
pattern than stocking it, this is the moment
when you return to working in the pattern. This waste or contrast yarn
is now our heel placeholder. So yeah, if you
took too much yarn, you can trim the tail, so it's convenient to work with. Okay. When working with the food, so need as much of
the food as you need, you will find some advice in the pattern and
the resources. Remember that this
food section has to be shorter than your desired
full sole length because we will be adding the heel length and the toe length
at the moment. So the food section
that we will be working now is this
part right here. So it all of the stitches in the main color until you have the necessary
length worked. In the next lesson, we will
learn how to knit the toe.
10. Toe: Okay, the foot section
of my sock is finished, so now it's time to work
the toe of the sock. There are multiple
ways to knead the toe. I will show you, I
believe the easiest one. It's also the one that
works really well for me. I recommend to start with it. So it is done by shaping with increases in
every second round. And on the right side
of the soak we'll be doing left leaning decreases. I'm doing this with a
slip slip knit decrease. And on the left
side of the sock, we'll be doing right
ling decreases, which I'm doing with
kit to together. And the decreases
are work both on the top and the
bottom of the sock. At the end of the toe, we will join the
stitches together with a technique that
is called grafting, so it will not be a
seam because there will be no seam part inside, it will be just seamless joint so it's comfortable to wear. Okay, let's start. So I will want to knit my toe
again in contrast color. I already cut my main color, so I will join the contrast one. And and similar
like with the calf, our life stitches now
are in the main color. So first, I will knit one round with the
contrast color to change the life
stitches color. Okay. The first round is done. I'm still keeping the tails of the main color end
and the beginning of the contrast color
so that I can tag on them a little bit in
the first couple of rounds after the switch
and make sure you keep them inside if you want to do it or you can already
tag them inside and the socks so they
don't bother you and just knit it up after finishing. Now I'll be doing
the decrease round. Let's zoom up a little. Okay, so to do that, we will knit the first
stitch as usual. And then we'll be doing this left leaning
decrease slip slip kit. So insert the needle as if to unit into
the first stitch on the left hand needle and slide off to the right hand needle and same with the second stitch. Insert the needle as if to unit move it to the
right hand needle, and now take the left needle
and insert it into both of those stitches and knead
them through the back loop. Okay. This is our left
leaning decrease. Now, knead the rest of the stitches until there are
three left on this needle. Okay, so we have three
stitches left on the needle and we'll be doing
this right lining decrease. So we'll knit the two stitches together, the next two stitches, insert the needle
as if to knit into both of the stitches together at the same time and
simply knit them, and the decrease is done. Knit the last stitch. Okay. Now we will repeat exactly the
same on the second needle, second half of the stitches. Okay. So again, knead
the first stitch. Yes. And now the decrease slip. Insert the needle as
if to knit and slip. Same in the second stitch. Now insert the left needle into both the stitches together and knead them through
the back loop. Okay. Knead until there are three left on the needle, three stitches. Sure. A three stitches left. So we need two together. Insert the needle into
two stitches at once and knit together and just knead
the last stitch. Okay. So the decrease round is done. I will hide the tails
inside the soak. Okay. And the toe will be shaped by
repeating these two rounds. First, a plain round, so knead all of the stitches
and then a decrease round. And we'll be repeating that until enough
stitches are decreased. I will stop repeating
those when I have 24 stitches left on my needle on my needle
in total for my size. But for your size,
your chosen size, please refer to the pattern so you can track it accordingly. So now we'll work
the plain round. Okay. And at the crease round. Knit the first stitch, then insert the needle as if to knit into the next stitch and
same into the other one, slip them both to right, insert the left needle into both
the stitches together, and knit them through
the back loop. Okay. And again, knit until there's three stitches
left on the needle. The stitches, knead the
next two stitches together, simply insert the needle
into both of the stitches at once and knit and
knead the last stitch. Exactly the same process for the second half
of the stitches. The first one, slip slip, knit. Three stitches left, knead
the two together and k one. And again the
sequence plain round, and then the crease round. So work this way until you have left as many stitches as noted in the
pattern for your size. Okay. Now that I
finish the decreases, it's time to finish
the toe with grafting. Make sure that you
have equal amount of stitches on both needles. It's very important that we have even stitch
count on each needle. If you don't have it even, then you must have
missed some decrease, so just track it back and
look where you missed it. Okay, measure a long tail
like 30 centimeters, so 12 " or even a
bit more and cut it. Thread your tapestry needle. Okay. And we can
start the grafting. First, we will do a setup. So for the setup, take
the needle and insert it parlwise as if to pearl through the first stitch on the front needle and kneadwise so as if to knead into the first stitch
on the back needle. And Okay. So that was the setup, and now we will
learn the sequence of moves that we will repeat to graft
all of the stitches. So insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle
and slide it off, and then insert it pearl
wise into the second stitch. Now the first one left on the needle and leave
it on the needle. Next, take the needle plwise through the first stitch on the back needle
and slide it off. And then move it it into the next stitch on the
needle on the back one, and leave it on the needle. This is the sequence
that we will repeat. So again, insert needle knit twice into the first
stitch on the front needle, slide it off, and then insert it into the next
stitch pearl wise, but keep the stitch
on the needle. Then for the back one, insert the needle parlwise into the first stitch
and slide it off, and then insert the needle, knitwise into the next stitch
and keep it on the needle. And then, knit twice in the
first stitch and slide it, then pull wise and keep it on. And for the back needle insert, pull wise and slide, and then knit twice and
keep it on the needle. We will repeat that sequence until there are two stitches left on the needles in total, one stitch on each needle. Okay. We have just two stitches left, so we will just do
the partial sequence, insert the needle knitwise
into the stitch on the front needle
and slide it off, and then insert the
needle pearl wise into the last stitch and
also slide it off. And your grafting is complete. This is how it looks like. It looks like
continuous knitting. What I like to do now is to
hide this yarn tail inside. So I put my hand inside the soak and then
insert the needle inside and we can weave in that end at the end together with all the other
ends left to weave in. I like to do it in one batch. So now is the time to insert the heel so see you in
the next lesson for that.
11. Heel: In this lesson, we will
learn how to insert the heel in the place
of our placeholder. We now have a closed tube
after finishing the toe. So to insert the heel, we will need to pick
up the stitches around the placeholder yarn. Let's take our needles. And we'll be picking
up the stitches by inserting the needle under the right leg of every
stitch below the yarn. Okay, so starting under the
first contrast yarn stitch. So insert under the
right leg of the stitch. So remember that every
succinate stitch is like this V. So we want to insert it
under the right part of the V. Okay. Le Every stitch one by one, it's the stitch right
under the contrast yarn. Count the stitches. It should be exactly half of the number
of the stitches you cast on. Yeah. So just make
sure that you picked up enough then slide the needle. So this is our first part
and turn the sock around. And again, with the
right hand needle, we will again pick up every stitch in the same way
under the contrast yarn. Okay, again, make sure
that you picked up enough stitches and
also not too mena. Okay. I have enough. I counted, so now it's time to
remove the waste yarn. It may be a little
bit scary to do it the first time because, yeah, it's unraveling something that's basically done, but don't worry. If you picked up all of
the stitches directly under the waste yarn stitches,
nothing will unravel. Okay. My waist yarn is removed. So as you can see, there are live stitches
on the needles, and there is, there is
a hole in the sock, and this is the hole that we will be
inserting the heel into. As you can see, nothing is
unraveling, so no worries. We can work with
this sock further. So I always start having my calf on the
bottom and toe at the top. This is how I start the round, and I will join the
contrast ion for the heel leaving a little bit longer tail we will kid
it for finishing. That's why it's worth to leave
a little bit longer one. Okay. So I will knit all of the stitches on
the front needle first. So simply knit them. Okay. Next, I will pick up
one more stitch on the side of this hole
because it's quite wide. So if we don't do that, we will be left with quite
a big hole after joining. So to avoid that, simply lift a leg of stitch here and knit it. Okay. There are some small
holes left, but do not worry. This is why we'll be
leaving longer tails so we can minimize them when
finishing when weaving in ends. So now let's move
to the second half of the stitches and
knit all of them. And also, we will pick up one
more stitch on this side. Okay. That way we have the same amount of stitches on each needle, and this time it's
an odd number of stitches for each needle, but even in total. So we will work the hell in
the same way as the toe. So we will work one plain round, which we just did and then a decrease round and
repeat plain round, decrease round, and the
same way as for the toe. However, we will work it a
different number of times, so we will work it for
a little bit longer. So we will have less stitches
left at the end to graft. Refer to the pattern to
make sure that you do enough runs and you are left with the correct number of
stitches for your size. Okay, so now we'll be
doing the decrease round. Okay. The first stitch
is a bit unstable, then slip, slip knit. Knit until three
stitches are left. And knead two together
and kid the last stitch. Okay and move to the second half Kit the first stitch. Slip slip, knit, and knit
until three stitches are left. It two together, knit one. Okay. The next round is
the plain round, so we will kit all
of the stitches. H. Okay, so continue working
the hell until you have the correct number
of stitches left, and then we will do the
grafting to finish the heel. Okay, so the heel
is finished now. We need to graft the stitches exactly the same way
as for toe and cut a little bit longer
tail for grafting so that we have more left
to within the end. And as a reminder,
first the setup. So take the needle pel wise into the first ditch
on the front ldle and then knitwise through
the first ditch on the back needle and pull
and now start the sequence. So again, insert needle knitwise in the first stitch
on the front needle, slide it off, and then pel
wise into the next stitch, leave it on the needle. And for the back,
insert the needle, pearl wise into the first
stitch on the needle, slide it off and then knitwise into the next stitch
and keep it on the needle. So we will repeat this sequence again until we have one stitch
left on each needle. Okay. And for the last stitches, insert twis into the front, middle stitch, and slide it off, and then pull ways
into the back stitch, and also slide it off. Okay, now let's insert
the inside the soak. Okay, now that we
ted the whole soak, it's time for finishing.
12. Finishing and Care: Our sock is almost ready. We just need to
weave in the ends. So to do that, I like to turn my sock inside out because I always weave in ends
on the wrong side. As this is an
intermediate class, I'm sure that you already
know how to even ends. So I will not be showing
that very slowly in detail. If you still need some
support with that, you can refer to the
tutorials linked in the pattern that
are more in depth. So first, I start
with the Caston tail. Let's do some. Okay, so
I move it to the back. And I like to weave
it in very simply. So just by inserting the needle under the right leg
of the t stitch in the ribbing one by one, and pull through. Make it a bit elastic, turn around and go upwards. This time, inserting from
the middle outwards. Okay. Thanks. I don't go all the
way to the edge. I stop a couple of stitches before that
so that when I cut off the remaining part of the tail so that the end doesn't stick above my sock outside, I also have this rule that I weave in the tail
into the same color. So I will weave in this end in a similar way
into the ribbing. But this pink main color tail, I will weave in into
the reverse stockinet. So each of the remaining ends is reverse tocint so would
be woven in the same way. If you have watched my design your own headband
class for sure, you know how to it in, but let me show you
very, very quickly. So in reverse Tkint we have this downward facing bumps like a frown and upward
that look like a smile. And this is how I
weave in the end. So I just start over
here and then go over around a frown into the next smile
and the frown below. Then over the smile around into the frown and the
smile above. Okay. And over the next frown into the smile and
the frown below, I lost my But this is how I would weave it in
for a couple of centimeters. Around the smile into
the frown and the smile above and around the frown into the smile and
the front below. Like so. Okay. Now,
as you can see, for the hill, this is
what I want to show you. We have these holes
on the sides. We did pick up extra stitches
to make it less prominent, but still it's there, and we do not want to
have such big holes. So that's why we
left longer tails by the side of the hills. So it's really very easy. The way I do it, it's quite straightforward,
but it works. So I thread my needle and then I catch some strands around
the hole, but in proximity. So I would catch that one. Probably. That one
don't go too much around because we'll
be pulling that in, so it will become a bit tighter. So if you pick stitches that are too
much away from the hole, it will not look natural. Okay. And let's
try one more here. Maybe this one. Okay. I think that should be enough. And now. Okay. And pull it tight. So there is no hole outside, it looks much better. So this is it now weaving
the remaining tail into the stitches off the heel so that the tension that keeps the hole shut here is kept. And likewise, on the other
side, however, here, first you have to
weave in through the stitches to get to the
hole to close it shut. Okay, so weave in all of the remaining ends
to finish your sock. And then as you can see, the finished sock straight after knitting is a little
bit crumpled and, you know, lacking this kat form that you can see on my
ready made sock here. So this is the last part of finishing. That
would be blocking. And blocking is basically
giving the kid a quick wash. I like blocking because
it evens the stitches out and loosens it up a bit, and the project always looks
better after blocking. So I block every project that
I make every single one. And for socks, remember
to wash them according to the instructions of the
yarn that you chose. For blocking, I always hand
wash them first and away. Even if you have machine
washable yarn used. I just prefer it that way, yep, but it's all up
to you, of course. And then for socks, you could use dedicated
sock blockers. They come as wooden
or sometimes plastic. So this is an accessory that you can use
to dry your sock. After you wash it, you put your damp sock
onto this blocker, and this is how you dry it. Then it's dried into
this nice platform, but honestly, it's
just aesthetic. It doesn't matter much for,
like, wearing attributes, so it will wear
exactly the same way as if you just flat dried it, so lay it flat on
a towel to dry. Okay, now that the
sock is finished, it's time for a quick wrap up.
13. Wrap Up: Thank you so much for
taking this class with me. Now that you've made
your first pair, the best next step is
to make another one. Try adding stripes,
changing colors, or playing with small
variations in the pattern. When you feel ready,
you can move on to slightly more complex
suck patterns, too. Every pair you make will build your skills and confidence. Before you cast on another sock, please take a moment
to leave a review. Your feedback is really helpful, and it also helps other students decide if this class
is right for them. Thank you again
for being here and for spending your time learning
something new with me. Happy eating and see
you in another class.
Izabela Grzybek, Knit & Crochet Designer
