Silk, Cotton painting without steaming to set the dyes. Indonesian Batik Art

1. Introduction : Hi, I'm Luna. I'm a self taught artist and art teacher. In the last six years, I have been constantly learning and developing my work, which is focused on silk paintings and other fabric painting techniques. There are literally hundreds of ways to paint on fabrics. And the techniques also various from painting on natural fibers compared to synthetic ones. One of my favorite painting techniques on fabric is Indonesian Batik Art. I've created this online class for beginners who want to learn and paint on silk, cotton or all natural fabrics. You will need some art supplies, which you can see in the list of materials video with specific instructions. I have breakdown this class into 29 small videos to make it easier for you to learn, where I will guide you step-by-step from start to finish. At the end of this class, you'll be able to create 3 items. The first one is a wearable silk scarf. The second one is a cotton placemat for your dining table. And the third item is a cotton fabric for your home decoration or experiment purposes. During each and every lesson, I'm giving you many useful tips which you can avoid unwanted mistake that I've come across over the years. With this painting technique, you can make absolutely endless ideas of products of your choice, on your own. From wearing to decorating, to traditional paintings to hang on the wall. So when you are ready, let's get it started. And I will see you in the first lesson! 2. Brief history of Indonesian Batik Art: My silk painting journey began with the contemporary painting technique on silk and handmade embroidery, which has led me to a dedicated study on other fabric painting techniques. When I found Indonesian Batik art, I was falling in love once again. And it is a truly beautiful way of creating designs and patterns on fabric. It allows me to create more advanced and sophisticated work that I can ever imagine. Batik Art is a painting technique of wax-resist dyeing applied on fabrics. This technique originated from the most populous island of Java, in Indonesia. This colorful fabric can take from one day to two years of making process, depending on the purposes of the textile decoration and its complexity. Batik Artisans use tjanting tool, to put hot melted wax onto the fabrics. For commercial productions, they can also use the textile stamp, which can be called a cap, to print hot wax on fabrics for larger garments. Indonesian textile heritage represents the life of Indonesian people from the fifth century until now. It was used to illustrating the journey of human life from birth, living in different levels of society, to marriage until death. The word Batik comes from the Javanese word 'amba', which means to write and 'titik', which means dot. In the Indonesian Archipelago, during the Dutch colonial period. The name has been attested in various forms, such as Mbatek, Mbatik, Batek, and finally stay as its most famous name as Batik all over the world. On the 2nd of October 2009, UNESCO has designated iIndonesian Batik Art as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of humanity. There are so many ways of creating Indonesian Batik art, from different regions in Indonesia as well as different countries in the world where this Art has been discovered. In this workshop, I will guide you through the most simple and efficient way of making this art, which will help you to be able to create your own designs of fabrics. You can make as many items as you want using this beautiful technique. And the sky is the limit. 3. List of Art Materials: Hi everyone, welcome to our Indonesian Batik art class. In this lesson, we will talk about the list of materials required for our online course. We're going to learn and to create three items. The first one is a wearable silk scarf. And for that, we need silk material. I'm going to use a silk habotai scarf, 8 mm, which is already been hemmed by hands by the manufacturer in the size of 42 by 42 centimeters. You can use any type of silk fabric. For example, Habotai, Chiffon, Satin, Charmeuse, Organza or mixed silk, like Silk with Wool blend together. And any natural silk that you can find will do. If you cannot find silk, you can also use cotton. You can get them ready hemmed or you can also do that yourself. I recommend silk Habotai or silk Chiffon for beginners because it is easier to paint, and also more affordable price. The second item we are going to make is cotton placemat. For this we need cotton fabric and also linen fabric. You only need them in the size of 39 by 34 centimeters. So if you get 1 meter of each fabric, it's more than enough for our workshop. If you don't want to get so many different kinds of fabrics, it's okay. You can get only silk and cotton. We can use cotton in replacement for linen. The third item we are going to make is a cotton fabric. Using the Batik textile stamp. For this, you can use the same size of cotton fabric as I do, which is 34 by 28 centimeters. Or you can use a larger size of fabric for home decor items. You can use it for any purposes that you like. If not, it would be a piece of experiement for your learning process. In this course, I'm going to show you the differences between two kinds of stretcher frames. The first one is the wooden sliding adjustable frame. As you can see in the picture. It comes in the sine of 35 by 35 centimeters. Second stretcher frame is the Easy fix ASF4 plastic frame, which is my favorite frame for silk scarf paintings. And it's the one that I recommend, if you want to become a professional silk painter. It comes in the size of 55 by 55 centimeters. To stretch the fabric onto this plastic frame, you will need the suspension hooks in red color which you can see in the little box. If you just want to try out this technique, and don't want to invest so much in the tools or equipment. I'd recommend to use an old Canvas frame. Just remove the canvas and the staplers at the back, and it will work just fine. For the wooden frames, you need to get the thumb-stacks or three legs prong pins. Or you can also use push pins if you already have them at home. For beginners, you should get a Batik explorer kit, which included 10 grams of each red, yellow, blue, and black Procion MX Dye. It also comes with 50 grams of soda ash, 200 grams of Batik. It is a mixture of Bee wax and Paraffin wax (50/ 50). It's also come with 1 Java tjanting with 2mm spout. Also it comes with a white cotton fabric in the size of 150 by 100 centimeters in natural white color. This will help you to save cost, to try it out first. And then if you like this technique, you can explore more and also get more products later on. If you don't want to get the Batik Explorer kit, you should get all the products mentioned in this kit separately. And make sure you don't forget to get Soda Ash and Procion MX Dyes, and not other dyes. Soda ash is sodium carbonate solid. It is very important to get because it's a key success for our technique. Without this product, the Procion MX Dyes will not be activated. Therefore, the colors were not bind into our fabrics as they supposed to be. The same goes to Procion MX Dyes. They are fiber reactive, cold water dyes. You can also get other tjanng sizes if you want. But one is enough to work with in the beginning. To melt the wax, I recommend Tixor Malam wax pot, as they have the temperature control system. So it's safe to use. To draw our designs, we need a pencil. You can also use any pen that you have at home. And also you need a A4 paper or any recycle paper you have. Check what you have at home and can be used for this class, before buying any products. You need a black marker pen to darken your draw or design. If you want your design or drawing lines to disappear after washing the fabrics, you should get a fade out marker pen (Trickmarker). If not, you need to get a Fabric Art marker pen, which is the same with permanent marker pen. To transfer the design onto the fabrics, we need a foam board, the same height with your stretcher frame. If you create your design on the fabric directly, then you don't need a foam board. But it's useful for beginners, and it helps you to trace the design easier if you are not very confident in drawing on the fabric as yet. To mix colors, we need a measurement cup, a teaspoon, and some plastic cups. Depends on how many colors that you want to make, that how many cups in we need. To store the colors for future use, you will need some glass jars with lids to keep it safe. To protect yourself, while mixing colors, you will need a pair of gloves, a face mask, and an apron if you'd like to protect your clothes as well. It's always practical to have some kitchen papers around to clean up our mess. We need 2 or 3 brushes for this workshop. I use 1 watercolour brush, size number 10 for painting, and another for Batik wax, and another fan brush for creating textures. You should use old brushes or cheap ones for hot wax because they will eventually get damage. Traditionally, Indonesian Batik artisans use a cap made from copper to print hot wax onto the fabric, like what you see in the picture. This is more for commercial purposes. In this workshop, we will use a wooden textile stamp instead because it is easier to find. To remove the wax from the fabrics, we need some absorbent papers and an iron. We need 2 buckets. One can contain 3 liters of water and the other can contain 5 liters of water. You can use what you already have at home, but just make sure you don't use it for cooking again. To speed up the drying process. It's good to have a hair dryer, but it's not necessary. To remove the wax completely, we need to use white spirit or Synthrapol detergent. This is up to you and also depends on what you can find in the local store. In my experience, white spirit is always easier to find. White spirit, also known as mineral turpentine, is a petroleum-derived clear liquid, use as a common cleaning solvent as we use a lot in painting. Or you can find it in household products. Synthrapol is a non-ionic or PH neutral liquid detergent that helps during pre wash or after wash, for dyeing or painting fabrics. You don't need to get both of them, but only one. To make the cotton placemat, we will need a pair of scissors, 1 needle and some threads. This item most probably you already have at home. I have attach a PDF file with the list of materials in this lesson and where you can find the products online if you cannot find them from your local art stores. So when you are ready, let's get started. 4. Choose fabrics: The best materials for Indonesian Batik art is natural fabrics, such as cotton or silk. Fabrics, must have a high thread counts or density woven so that it can absorb the wax that is applied in the dye resisting process. And the intricate desired quality of Batik can be maintained. There are hundred kinds of silk materials. And in this video, I'm showing you some of the silk fabrics so that you can see the differences between them. This is a crinkled Chiffon silk, 5 mm in natural white color. It is a lightweight balanced plain woven shear fabric of alternative Z and S twisted crepe. I normally color this fabric in a dye bath and it can be used as a scarf or to make blouse and lingerie. This is silk Satin devoree with crocodile patterns in natural white color. It can be painted and then use as a scarf or making dresses. This is black silk Habotai, 5 mm, Habotai from the Japanese word literally means 'feather-two-layer' also spelled in the same way, it is one of the most basic plain weaves of silk fabric. This is white silk Habotai 5 mm. Another name for silk Habotai is silk Pongee. Traditionally, this silk fabric has been used for lining kimono and now it has become a very popular choice for silk painters when it comes to silk scarf painting. Because of its beautiful shining effect, as well as it is one of the most affordable silk in the market. This is a silk Habotai 8 mm scarf, which has been hand hemmed by the manufacturer. They come in many different sizes from square to rectangle shape, and are ready be painted. Here is the Cotton scarf which has machinery hemmed. And you can see how evenly the threads on both sides. And also you can see the differences between hand hemmed scarf and machine hemmed scarf. It may be a good idea to know your client's preferences before purchasing the ready-made hemmed scarves. This is a completed work of the silk Habotai 8 mm scarf in the size of 42 by 42 centimeters, which we're going to do in this course. And here you can see how the hand hemmed scarf looks like after painting. The next silk scarf that I want to show you is silk Chiffon 5 mm. This is an elegant shear fabric, with a soft and beautiful drape and crepe-like texture. It feels almost like touching the sands. And here is another scarf made of the same material which has been painted using the Indonesian. Batik art. After painted, the transparency and lightweight of the fabric is remained unchanged. And this scarf also has been hemmed by hands. Here you can see how it looks like after painting on both sides. Another natural materials can be used for Indonesian Batik art is linen. Linen is a strong and absorbent fabric and it dries faster than Cotton. It also has a tendency to wrinkle. This fabric is suitable for making home decor items and furnishing products. However, in this course, it will be used only for making the backside of our placemat, and the front side we will use a piece of cotton material. Here is how cotton fabric looks like before painting. Among on the silk materials which I have just mentioned, my most favorite choices are Silk Habotai and Silk Chiffon. Here, you can see them in different sizes. I use them a lot in my silk painting classes. And my students always go home with a completed, wearable, beautiful silk scarf. Silk Habotai scarf is more shining, While silk Chiffon is wonderfully soft. Just like you are wearing a feather on your neck. I'ld highly recommend you to use these two types of silk materials, especially for silk scarf painting technique. Here you can see how they look like before and after painting. On my left hand is the Silk Habotai 8 mm, and on my right hand is the Silk Chiffon 5 mm. To give you a better understanding of what's more you can make from fabric paintings. Here, I'm showing you some paintings which I have made on fabrics and stretched them onto the canvas frame by using the the gun staplers. This Frida Kahlo painting is made with the Indonesian Batik Art on silk Habotai 5 mm, on a painting stretcher. And then I stretched it permanently onto a canvas frame. With the cotton fabric, I created this painting, which you may already recognized, it is a mini 'Starry night' I made some times ago, inspired from the famous Dutch artist, Van Gogh. On the right-hand side is another cotton painting which I made inspired from his painting, 'The plum tree teahouse at Kaimedo of Hiroshige.' Here is another painting on cotton I created inspired from Gustav Klimt painting style and the 'Tree of Life'. Last but not least, is the pink orchard trees painting, which I made on cotton, also inspired from Van Gogh. So now you already know the differences between the fabrics and how to choose them. Let's move to the next lesson when we learn how to prepare the fabrics for painting. 5. Prepare fabrics: To make the fabric ready for our painting process, we need to prewash it. This step applied mostly for cotton and linen or thicker fabrics. I normally don't do this step on my silk fabric because they are not required for scouring. Pre washing fabric is made in order to remove any sizing and any grease, oil, or starches during manufacturing or shipping, which may prevent the paint for adhering to the surface. It also gives the fabric the chance to shrink, if it's going to. To know if your fabric needs scouring step or not. you can run a few droplets of water onto the fabric, if they soak in quickly, no scour is necessary. If wash by hands, you need to rinse the fabric very well with water, before drying it. So there are 2 products we can use to prewash the fabrics. You can use any normal washing detergent, which you may already have at home. Or you can use the Synthrapol, which is a non-ionic detergent for this step. I don't see the difference in my work if I use Synthrapol for scouring step or not. But it does makes the difference when we want to wash the fabric at the end, after painting. Synthrapol helps to remove on the loose dyes which have not been binded to the fabric. And also because of its pH neutral, it keeps the loose dye particles of dye in suspension so they won't stain on other areas of the fabric. So if you want to become a professional silk or fabric painter, this product may be a good investment for you. Otherwise, it is not required for this course as normal laundry soap will work just fine for our learning purposes. You can also use the washing machine to pre wash your fabric. Just remember, do not set the temperature higher than 30 degree Celsius, as it may cause the fabric to shrink more than it's supposed to be or permanently wrinkle. You can hang it to dry or use the iron to speed up the process. When the fabric is dry, you can then stretch it onto the stretcher frame, ready for painting. 6. Assemble plastic frame (Easy Fix ASF 4): This is my favorite stretcher frame to work with. It calls Easy Fix ASF fabric stretcher frame. It is made of plastic with 4 separated bars in white color that can be joined together by the 4 clever corners connectors in blue color, that allowed for size adjustment. Here I have a silk habutai scarf 8 mm in the size of 42 by 42 centimeters, which already has been hand hemmed and ready to be stretched and painted. As you can see, the plastic bars have many small house which fit the suspension hooks. I begin with stretching the fabric from its corner. The suspension hook has two sharp needles that can be pinned through and hold the scarf in its place. You can adjust the size of the frames and the hooks, to stretch your fabric evenly onto the stretcher frame. I continue to use the suspension hooks to stretch all 4 sides of the scarf. You need to make sure to stretch the fabric taut like a drum surface. In that way, it will be easier for you to paint as well as applying wax later on. This Easy Fix fabric stretcher frame, come in 2 different sizes. The small frame like this one is Easy Fix ASF 4. It is in the size of 55 by 55 centimeters, which also can be used as an extension frame. The second frame is bigger one, which is Easy Fix ASF 1, the size of 102 by 102 centimeters. You can find the links where to purchase these fabric stretcher frames in the attached PDF file. The reason why this is my favorite choice when it comes to stretcher frame is because it is very easy to assemble. It is great for sketching any type of fabric and many pre-made scarves size for craft, such as silk paintings, Batik painting or fabric paintings in general. Another good point is that the strong plastic bars, which can be simply wiped clean right after use. And what I love the most about this frame is that it allows maximum and continuously adjustable tension on the fabrics. And it allows to paint all the sides of the scarf freely and completely, while it is not always a case if you are using the wooden frame because of the thumbs-tacks, or we can call it: three legs prong pins on the scarf. When you are using the wooden frame, sometimes the paint cannot penetrate through and create unwanted marks on your scarf, unless you don't want to use that part of the fabric. Or if you're making the hand hemmed scarf yourself, then it wouldn't be a problem. Therefore, I'd highly recommend you to use this plastic frame for your silk scarf. I'm sure you will enjoy working with it like I do. But of course the choice is up to you whether you want to use wooden frame or plastic frame. And in regards to the wooden frame stretcher, I'll explain more about it for its best use and practice in the following video. I then continue to stretch the silk scarf onto the stretcher frame until it is done, this is how it looks like on the plastic stretcher frame. And I will see you in the next lesson where we learn to stretch and the cotton placemat onto the wooden frame. 7. Assemble wooden frame and stretch cotton: This is a sliding wooden frame that made of four separated wooden bars in the size of 35 centimeters. They can be joined together by using the easy screw system, which you can see here. Once on the bars attached together, we can stretch the fabric and paint on a maximum size of 30 by 30 centimeters. You can also adjust the size smaller than that if you like. Or as for your work required. make sure to screw it tightly so it won't move around while painting later on. There are many different sizes and designs for wooden stretcher frames. You can see the link on my attached PDF file to know more about where I get this product online. To save the cost, You can also use an old wooden Canvas frame. Just remove the canvas and the back staplers and you are ready to go. Then I use the art tape, which normally being used for watercolor painting too stick on all four sides of the wooden stretcher frame. We do this to protect the wooden frame from absorbing the wet dye while painting so that it will not get damaged and we can use it for a longer period of time. I have here a piece of cotton material which I have already cut it ready for our placemat. In the size of 39 by 34 centimeters. You can fold the fabric into half vertically and use the fade out marker pen to mark the center of the fabric. Then lay the wooden frame on top of the fabric. Check 4 sides to make sure it is in the center. You can turn the frame around to see all 4 sides to make sure the wooden frame is in exact center of the fabric. Use the fade out marker pen again to draw the lines on the fabric like so. Don't worry about the pen marks as in when eventually disappear after sometimes or after we apply water on it. Remove the fabric and put it on the wooden frame. The outlines of the fade out marker pen should match with the 4 sides of the frames. Now you can use the 3 legs prong pins to stretch the fabric on the frame. Start from the middle and then expanding to the side of the fabric. The distance of the pins can be from 2 to 3 centimeters or shorter if needed. You can see here the fade out marker pen as the guideline. It helps to pin the fabric easier. You can continue to pin the fabric onto the wooden frame. The tip here is do not pin it tight completely as you may have to remove it and pin again while adjusting the fabric. Once all the pins are in the right place, then you can give it a strong final press to make sure they won't. move around. If you don't have the 3 legs prong pins. You can also use the push pins that you may already have at home, or easier to find in the local stationary shop. You can also pin the opposite side of the fabric to keep the fabric in place, making it easier to pin all the other sides. Don't hesitate to use as many pins as you need to. The whole point is to make a taut surface like a drum so that it will be easier for you to paint later on. If a pin is not in a good place like this one and creating baggy surface, you should remove it immediately and using the tool that comes with the pins backage, remove it and then pin it back again. Now you can see the fabric has been stretched evenly. You can do a thorough check and press all the pins down to hold the fabric, firmly. Those pins are not done correctly, you can remove these pins easily by hand, but just to make sure you don't damage your nails, it's better to use the tool that comes together with the pins. If you misplace this tool, you can also use a plastic knife, which worked just fine. And as you tap onto the fabric, it should feel like a drum as I have mentioned. Here you can see the design I have made just to show you how we can trace the lines on the fabric, which we will continue with this step in the later video. 8. Create design on A4 paper: For this workshop, I'm drawing orchid flowers and a humming bird. First, I use a normal pencil to draw on a piece of A4 paper. One question which I have been asked very often that is, where do I get my inspiration? And the answer is 'nature'. It might be a good idea for you to explore Pinterest if you haven't been doing that already. I create an online gallery of photos on Pinterest, and that also another source of my inspiration. When I see a photo that I like, I pin it and use it for drawing and also for my classes. After I'm done with the drawing, I then use a black marker pen to highlight on the pencil lines. This is a bold pen, so the highlight is dark enough for us to see through the fabric later on when we're going to trace the design onto the fabric. I recommend to use black marker pen, but you can use any color pen which you already have at home. Just highlight it dark enough and it should be fine. You can use the same design as I do if you want. I have attached the photo in this lesson so you can download it. Or if you are good at drawing, or if you like drawing, you can draw any flower image that you like or any symbol, shape, and pattern to start with. If you are someone who thinks that you cannot draw, or believe that you are not good at it. I have a tip for you. You can use any picture that you like from the magazine, cut it and highlight the outlines. You can begin with that and then practice drawing until you feel confident. I believe anyone can draw and anyone can paint. Just like how we learn to read and to write. It doesn't happen from day one. We all need a lot of practice until we can master something. And if you still feel like you cannot draw, even though you tried very hard. But you love to create art and you want to make something beautiful for your home. I have a just solution for you. You can go on the internet and search for flower coloring photo and print it out the one that you like. Or you can get a flower coloring book from your local art store. So you don't have to stress out with your creating design process. Believe me, after doing this for sometimes, you will have a lot of drawing images in your memory and it will make it much easier for you to draw something. I hope these tips will be useful for you. As I believe, we always have a solution to a problem. And what makes the difference is to start fixing the problem instead of having excuses. So when you are ready, you can take out your pencil and start drawing. You can do it. I believe in you! And I will see you in the next video. 9. Mix medium: Are you ready to become a scientist? That is the feeling I always get when I start mixing my colors or painting products. It is super fun and easy to make. I promise you. So first thing first, you need to put on your face mask and gloves to protect yourself from inhaling this product as it is in the powder form right now. Once it is mixed with water, you don't need to wear the mask anymore. We are going to make a half teaspoon of soda ash into a 150 milliliters of warm water, recommended at 35 degree Celsius. It's easier to mix it in the measurement cup. You should stir it very well until the soda ash is completely dissolved into the water. Then we can pour this liquid into a glass jar to store it with a closed lid. By doing this, we can keep it safe. And I recommend you to write a label on the glass jar so that you can identify it easily. I normally mix soda ash right before using it and makes only enough for what I need. Because fresh mixture always work better on the fabric compared to the old one. And that also applied to the dye colors mixture. 10. Apply medium on silk scarf: In the previous video, you've learned how to mix soda ash with water. Now we're going to apply the same liquid directly from the glass jar onto the silk scarf, which has been stretched onto the stretcher frame. By using a water-color brush, we basically painting soda ash liquid at this point. And because I'm right-handed, I always paint from the left to the right. And you can also do the same if you are like me. For left-handed people, I believe it works best for you the opposite way, meaning to paint from the right to the left. By painting from one side to another, we make sure all the silk scarf surface being wet evenly. And we can see and go over on the spot that soda ash liquid has not been applied. Don't forget to paint the hem area of the scarf as well. Because the fabric here has been folded and thicker than the scarf itself. Then we will wait until the silk scarf is completely dry by air before we can do the next step. It can take up to few hours to dry. And a tip here for you is to let it dry naturally and do not use the hair dryer to speed up. Because soda ash takes time to do its work on the fiber. It actually activates the fiber molecules so that they can chemically hold the dye. Soda ash, changes the pH level of the fiber reactive dyes and cellulose fiber, so that the dye reacts with the fiber, making a permanent connection between them. Ultimately, soda ash is sodium carbonate solid that used to fix Procion MX fiber reactive dyes, which we're going to do in this course. Please note that in contact with the soda ash liquid may cause irritation to your skin. So you should wash your hands immediately if that happens. And also wear the gloves when using it, if need to. Soda ash in combination with fiber reactive dyes, work best in natural fabrics, such as silk, cotton, linen, and wool. Natural fibers take the dye much better than synthetics do. You can also do some experiments at home to see the different results when using the same steps in this course on synthetic fabrics, such as polyester, acrylic, latex on nylon. Don't be surprised if most of the dye when disappear on synthetic. That's why it's best to use these techniques on natural fabrics only. 11. Transfer design onto silk scarf: In the previous lesson, we've applied soda ash onto the silk scarf and after waiting a few hours, it is now dry completely. I use 2 foam boards laying on each other to create a flat surface with the height of five centimeters. You can also use a thick book for this. I find it easier when it is in white color, so we can see our design more clear. Then laid out the A4 paper, which we have created our design earlier. After that, put the stretcher frame with silk scarf on the center of the design. You can easily see the design through the silk scarf here. If we didn't highlight it with black marker pen, it will be difficult to see the design of pencil alone. The first thing I do is drawing for outlines around this scarf. Using a wooden stick and permanent marker pen. You can use a ruler for this step if it's long enough. On this scarf, I make 4 centimeters outlines. But you can make it smaller if you like. You should hold the ruler firmly before drawing the line to avoid it moving around. Because this is a permanent marker pen, the black lines will stay on the fabric even after washing. So if you want the lines to disappear, you need to use the fade out marker pen for this step instead. There are many types of permanent marker pens. The best for this technique is to use textile marker pen or fabric art marker pen. They come in fine point or medium point. When I was recording this lesson, those marker pens were out of ink. So I use the Farber-Castell permanent marker pen in replacement. And it gives the same result as the fabric marker pen medium point. Then I start to trace the design onto the silk scarf by drawing on all the lines that I can see through the fabric. The same rule applied, I draw from the left to the right and gently holding and pressing the fabric down to be able to see the design better and to make sure that I don't miss any area. Then I continue to trace the design onto the fabric until all is completed. Don't forget to sign your name. You can also write a quote on the corner of the scarf if you like. Once you are done tracing the design onto the silk scarf, you can remove the foam boards and the A4 paper. As you can see, there are some areas where the design is not covering the scarf completely. Because our scarf sign is 42 by 42 centimeters. And it's bigger than the design on A4 paper, which is 30 by 21 centimeters. So what we can do now is to continue to draw on the scarf, to connect on the missing lines, and also to draw the smaller details on the scarf. You can fill in the gaps gently like so. If you use the same paper size with the scarf, then you will not have to do this. But I didn't want you to have to purchase another type of paper. And you use an A4 paper instead, because most likely you already have it at home. The tip to paint directly on silk fabric is to not lift up your pen, but to make a continuous line from the start to finish. There is an empty area on the top left of the scarf, so I draw 2 more leaves on. Normally I create my design directly from the fabric itself. But I'm showing you how we can do it by using the A4 paper. And you can use the bigger size of paper if you like. And if you are confident, you are more than welcome to skip the A4 paper drawing step, and draw on the fabric directly with the fade out marker pen, or permanent marker pen. If you are a beginner, I recommend you to use the fade out marker pen to familiarise yourself before using the permanent marker pen. 12. Wax resist on silk scarf: In the previous video, we have traced the design onto the silk scarf. Now we are going to apply the hot wax using tjanting tool and brushes. First, I want to talk about the table setting and safety use of hot wax. I keep the wax pot on the left side of the table and set it on level 6. After 5 minutes, the wax should be melted hot enough to start working. Make sure you don't move the wax pot around while using it and do not keep it at the edge of the table. Keep it sit still in the center and make sure your room or working area is well ventilated. As the hot wax smell can cause nausea depending on the person. You can fold a piece of kitchen paper and hold it in your hand to wipe off the excess wax on the outside of the tjanting. Before applying the wax on the silk scarf, you should keep the tjanting in the wax pot for at least 2 minutes to warm it up. When the tjanting is hot enough, you can scoop the wax through the tjanting bowl opening and let the wax runs out through the small spout a few times to test it, and see if the wax is flowing smoothly. After that, the tjanting is ready to be used. Don't forget to wipe off the outside of the tjanting with the kitchen paper to avoid unwanted dripping. You can start tracing the design with the outlines and then moving on to the center or the other way around, whichever you feel more comfortable. To use the brush, you also need to keep the brush inside the wax pot for 1 or 2 minutes to warm it up. There is less dripping while using the brush, but more dipping because the brush obviously can hold up to much less amount of hot wax compared to the tjanting, and it dries out very quickly. The tip for using brush is to keep it at 90 degree so that it will five a fine line on the fabric unless you want to create different textures. I use different tjanting sizes on the scarf. But you can start with number 2, and it should work just fine. We need to make sure all the wax lines are closed, which means no gaps. Otherwise, in the later stage while painting, the colors may leak through. You can turn the stretcherl frame to check on the other side, or hold it against the light to see if there is any gaps. If so, we should fill in the gaps with hot wax at this point. And it can be done easily with the brush. Another way to make sure all the lines are closed, is to go over it the second time. I found this very useful for the outlines and the areas where you really don't want to have color leaks. Here you can see another type of tjanting which comes with a double spouts. I use it mainly for decorating purposes. And on this scarf, I use it for the tree trunk. The same technique applied when using double spouts tjanting. However, you should think and see where you want to go before starting. Otherwise, you may end up having a lot of wax floating on your fabric if you are hesitating. Now I'm turning the stretcher frame upside-down to check if all my wax lines are completely closed. I can see the outlines of the tree have not been applying hot walks. So I'm going to turn the frame to the front side and applying wax on the remaining areas. Because I used a black marker pen, it can be difficult to see if I go over it with the wax or not. So it's always a good idea to double check. As I mentioned before, you can hold those stretcher frame against the light, and that will help you to see the wax line easier. I continue to trace all the lines with hot wax using tjanting wax pen, until the whole silk scarf design is done with absolute no gaps. 13. Transfer design onto cotton: With the cotton fabric stretched on the wooden stretcher frame. I turn the frame to its backside, laying flat on the A4 paper on the table to trace the design onto the fabric using a fade out marker pen. As you can see here, this trick marker pen has purple color and it will disappear after sometimes (from few hours up to few days), depends on the humidity and temperature or when in contact with water. It can also come in other colors, like blue or pink, depends on the brand. I trace the design until I cover all the areas. Then turn the wooden frame to the front side. You can see some of the lines are not clear and some already fade out, especially in a sunny day like today. So I have to sketch them again and also fill out the gaps of the missing lines. Just like what we did with the silk scarf earlier. I create the 4 outlines for this placemat. This time I don't need to use the wooden stick because I can leverage the wooden stretcher frame to do that by drawing the lines right next to the edges of the frame. Then I continue to darken some areas where the lines are not clear. There is one thing you should remember why using the fade out marker pen is to work on it immediately. Otherwise, if you leave it for few hours or overnight, when you come back to it, most of the drawing lines are already gone and you may have to re-do your work again, which can be a waste of time. And try not to touch the fade out marker pen drawing with your hand. It also make the lines disappear faster because of your body temperature and your hand may be sweaty that you are not aware of. The good thing about fade out marker pen is that you don't have to be worried about making a mistake because you can always fix it easily. By using a wet brush, you can erase the part that you don't like by painting a small amount of water on the fabric and wait until it dry. A tip for beginner, you can draw on the fabric directly with the fade out marker pen. And then when you are happy with your drawing, you can highlight the drawing with the permanent marker pen, if you want the black lines of the design to stay on the fabric after washing, Sometimes the black lines on the scarf is creating more depth and beautiful effect, especially on Silk Chiffon. Here we are using the fade out marker pen on cotton. And one of the main characteristic of cotton is being absorbent. That's why the fade out marker pen tend to disappear very quickly. I continue to draw the design on the fabric using the fade out marker pen until I can see all the lines are clear, and we are ready to move to the next step in the following video, which we're going to apply wax on the cotton fabric using tjanting wax pen and brushes. 14. Wax resist on cotton: As you can see, because we turned the wooden stretcher frame to its backside while tracing the design, that's why the hummingbird is on the left side of the cotton fabric, while on the silk scarf, it's on the right-hand side, because we used the foam boards underneath the frame to trace the design. So depends on the effect that you want to see on your work, you can choose different tracing methods. For applying wax on cotton fabric, the technique is the same as applying on silk. However, you may want to use a bigger size of tjanting wax pen. I often use chanting size number 3 because the hot wax can penetrate through the cotton fabric in one go. If you only have tjanting size number 2, I suggest you to go over the wax line a second time to make sure you don't have any leakage later on when painting. Don't forget the safety instructions while using hot wax, which I've mentioned on lesson 14, applying wax on silk scarf. To get the best result while applying hot walks, you need to pay attention to the wax temperature as it has to be heated enough to penetrate through the fabric, especially on cotton or thicker material like linen. For Silk Chiffon, you should set the Tixorl Milam wax pot on level 5, for Silk Habotai and Cotton, you can set a level 6, and for Linen or Wool as well I'm setting at level 6 and I have never used level 7. However, if you use the wax spot, don't let it burn and if it cause smoke, you should turn it off immediately. To avoid dripping wax on the fabric, you need to use a kitchen paper and wipe off the bottom of the tjanting. You will notice, even after you wiped it off in the beginning, there is still some left over wax, melting down after about 10 seconds or so. You can turn the frame around to work better. For me, it is easier to draw a straight line from the left to the right, so I turn the frame accordingly. When you work on a larger frame, you may have to walk around the table because turning the frame won't be practical at this point and also might not be safe with the use of our wax pot. I love using the brush to apply wax because it doesn't cause dripping on my work, like the tjanting does. But it may be time consuming as you have to keep dipping the brush into the wax pot to pick up the hot wax. I also have here a fan brush, which I normally use to create texture and random brushstroke for my work. On this cotton fabric, I'm using it to make a rough surface for the orchid tree. You can also use it to create repeated patterns for the fabric, making the wax print one after another. Then I want to show you what a double spouse tjanting can do. Both of these two spouts are on the size of number 2. And they are very good for decorating purposes, like creating zigzag lines or parallel patterns to speed up a larger fabric. There are some dripping wax drops on the left side of the fabric, which happened before when I was using the tjanting. So I'm making more of them on the other sides to make it looks like it is a part of the design and not by mistake. You can draw them evenly or in different places as you like. I like my work a bit abstract, so I make the drops randomly here and there. You can play with it, have some fun, and don't be afraid to try something new. And remember Art doesn't have to be perfect. What more important is you enjoying the creating process, and learn the technical part. The result will eventually become better when you are flexible and working spontaneously. So that you can create very unique piece of Art, which is representing who you are as a person, as an artist. So we have done applying wax on cotton fabric. Let's move on to the next step in the next video. When we are applying Soda ash on Cotton. 15. Apply medium on cotton: If you still remember, on the silk scarf, we applied soda ash liquid first. Then we let it dry. Then we trace the design on the scarf, then we applying wax. But for this cotton placemat, we actually do the other way around. We traced the design on cotton. Then we apply wax And finally, we apply soda ash, which is what we are doing now. The reason why is because we used fade out marker pen for our cotton placemat. So by doing this step of applying soda ash liquid on the cotton after the other steps, by the time the fabric is dried, the fade out marker pen will also disappear. And we will basically save some time by skipping one step of applying water alone to remove the fade out marker pen before painting. Because if we don't remove the fade our marker pen marks before painting, the fabric may be covered in purple color and makes it difficult to paint the fine details. At this point, we can also test the wax lines and see if the water leak in which area. If you want to fix the leakage problem now is the time. You need to take note where the water leaks and wait until the fabric dry completely to use the hot wax and fill in the gaps with a brush. It's better to use a brush because tjanting may cause blobs and dripping. The tjanting is good for long wax lines, and the brush is good for short ones. There are some water leaks out on the bottom left of the fabric, from the edge of relief. But I will keep it like that for you to see later on what happens when we applying dye color. Of course, the dye leak when be more obvious than the water leak. Now I'm covering the whole cotton fabric with soda ash liquid. And you can see how much ink that comes out from the fade out marker pen in purple color. I make sure all surface of the fabric is wet evenly and wait for it to dry naturally. One hour after applying soda ash liquid, this is how the cotton fabric looks like. You can see most of the purple ink from the fade out marker pen is gone. 16. Wax resist textile stamp on cotton : In this lesson, I will show you how to use the textile stamp on cotton fabric. I am using a piece of cotton in the size of 34 by 28 centimeters. And here I have a wooden Indonesian Batik textile stamp, which I have got from a very unique shop where they sell all the antique products and furniture's from half-century ago. So I feel very special using this textile stamp. The whole purpose is to show you how it can be done applying hot wax, using the textile stamp on fabrics. I protect the table with a grey plastic bag. Then I laid out a piece of baking paper which can hold the cotton fabric perfectly later when I'm going to apply soda ash and dye on it. I used a ruler and a fade out marker pen to devise the fabric into half horizontally. My Batik textile stamp is in the size of 10 by 10 centimeters. I put it on the fabric and create a mark with the pen to see where I can stamp it on the fabric with hot wax. And because the length of my fabric is 34 centimeters, it fits the textile stamp by 3 times. So I devise the fabric equally by 3 vertically. Now we are ready to print hot wax onto the fabric using our textile stamp. I keep the stamp in the wax spot for 30 seconds at first, and then hold it on the air for 5 seconds. And you can see the result is not as good because the wax doesn't penetrate through the fabric. So I dip the stamp into the wax pot again, and this time immediately press it on the fabric without waiting or holding the stamp on the air, because the wax dries out very quickly. Then I tried to stamp the second time, but there is not enough wax, as well as the stamp is already cooled off. So I have to dip it in the wax pot again, in order for it to work. The longer I keep the wooden stamp in the wax pot, the hotter the stamp become and it gives better results. As you can see, my wooden Batik stamp is quite old. So that's why you can see some small black pieces of the wood on the wax areas that come off from the stamp itself, but they will be gone after we remove the wax. The wax line is darker, because more wax has been penetrated through the fabric on the second roll compared to the first one. Don't forget to turn off and disconnect your wax pot after using it. Once we are done with the stamping step, we need to apply soda ash liquid on the fabric. And we don't have to wait because the wax dries out very quickly. The good thing is that we don't have to stretch this fabric onto the stretch of frame. We can apply soda ash directly on the fabric, laying flat on the table. If you want to use this technique, you can get any textile stamp that you can find in the local app store or in any size available. It doesn't have to be a big one like mine. There are many options of textiles stamps, which you can find online as well. Mostly they are made from wood or copper. Then I continue to apply the soda ash on the whole fabric. When we're done with applying soda ash, we let the fabric dry completely before we can color it in the dye bath. I will show you how you can reactivate oh dyes for coloring in the later lesson, so that you no longer need to throw away your old dyes, which is cost saving as well. 17. Color Chart : I have created a simple way and a system to mix colors, which will help you making 12 colors from using the only 3 primary colors, red, blue, yellow, and also black. This is a color chart that I have invented for my students. And many of them gave me great feedbacks as it is super easy to use. And making the coloring process much more fun. Not only that, they can make other colors from the basic primary colors so that they can save money buying products, which I believe it is not necessary if you can make them yourself. I have attached this color chart on the PDF file, so you can download it. Here I'm making the color chart step-by-step for you to see and understand how easy it can be. Starting with the 3 primary colors, red, yellow, blue, and also black. When we mix red with yellow, we get orange. When we mix red with blue, we get purple. You can also call it violet, lavender or lilac. When we mix yellow with blue, we get green. When we mix green with purple, we get brown. or greenish brown depends on the ratio of each color inside. When we mix black with blue, we get dark blue or deep blue, which we can call navy blue. When we make navy blue with purple, we get blue violet color, which we can call dark purple. To make a color lighter, we can simply add some water. In this case, we are adding water to red and we get pink. And when we add water to black, we get grey. If you want a color to be cooler or warmer, you can always add more of that particular tone while mixing your colors. To keep the dye safe and for later use, as well as easy identifying, I suggest you to get some glass jars which come with lids and 50 milliliters glass jars would be fine for this course. I also have a small wooden tray where I keep them, and I wrote the colors down so that I can see my warm colors are on the left roll, and my cool colors are on the right side. You can also put a labor sticker on each jar to identify the color because they look very similar in liquid form. For example, red and orange, blue and black, green and brown. It's also a good idea to test paint your dye on a small piece of fabric or kitchen paper before applying them on your work. 18. Mix dye colors: This is a list of Procion MX dyes color available in the market. In this lesson, I'm going to teach you how to mix 12 colors or more from only using the 3 primary colors, red, yellow, blue, and black, so that you can save money. For this step, I will ask you to wear a face mask and a pair of gloves to protect yourself from the dyes powder. We are going to mix 12 colors from using the 3 primary colors, red, yellow, blue, and also black. They are Procion MX fiber-reactive dyes, which come in powder form. To make them become liquid form, we use water. We need 150 milliliters of water for each 4 color dye. I start by pouring 150 milliliters of water in each 4 plastic cups, which I have marked the measurement on each cup already using a permanent marker pen, as well as labeled them by their color, red, yellow, blue, and black. Once I have 150 milliliters of water in each cup, I then use a teaspoon to add dye powder into each of them. I use half teaspoon of Procion MX dye for each cup accordingly to its color. Remember to close the lid immediately as you don't want to inhale the dye powder. And also to keep it safe after used. All the tools that have been used for Batik art should not be used for cooking or other purposes. Gently pick up the dye and drop it into the right cup, so you can avoid confusion of colors. For beginners, I'd recommend you to get the Batik Explorer kit to start with, which it has these 4 colors of Procion MX dye and also enough materials for experimenting. And you should cover your table with plastic or an old tablecloth while mixing colors, to protect in case any stain may damage it. You can keep a roll of kitchen paper nearby to clean any mess immediately. Then I use the teaspoon to stir the dye powder until it is completely dissolved into the water. Always clean your tea-spoon after mixing each color to get the pure colour without mixing them together. I continue to use tea-spoon to stir gently and mix the 3 remaining colors. Once we're done mixing 4 colors, we can use a brush to test the colors on a piece of kitchen paper. You should wash the brush with water every time before applying new color. Otherwise, they may mix into each other and you will not see the real color. You can see the red color on the kitchen paper is more like pink and not exactly red. To get a solid red, you need to reduce the ratio of water to 50 milliliters with a half teaspoon of red dye powder. The same applied for black color. If you want to get a darker shade of black, I'd recommend you to mix a half tea-spoon of black dye in 50 milliliters of water. Because with the same amount of dye in 150 milliliters of water, the color after painting and washing will look almost like grey color instead of black. Then I continue to mix all the colors. I mix yellow and red together, and we get a beautiful, vibrant orange out of it. I also use the brush to test the color on the kitchen paper, just like what we did before. Once we're done mixing the 12 colors using this color chat, we can test all the colors with a brush and paint it on the kitchen paper like so. If you want any color to be darker shade, we should change it at this point. For example, the red color, which is the second color from the top left column. It looks very pinkish, and not red. So we can add into the same cup a quarter of a teaspoon dye powder (of the red dye powder), and continue to stir it until all the dye dissolve into the liquid. When we are happy with the colors that we mixed, We can then stir them into each glass jar to keep them safe, organized, and ready to be painted. After mixing, I have some leftover colors included black, red, and orange. So I mixed black and red to get maroon. And I mix red and orange to get red orange, or you can call it Scarlet. So I have a total of 14 colors using this color chart. I recommend you to recycle and wash all the cups immediately so that they can be cleaned and available for the next time. 19. Painting on silk Part 1: In the previous lesson, we have learned how to mix 14 colors and store them safely in glass jars. In this lesson, we are going to paint on our silk scarf. Using these colors will simple watercolor brush. I'm using brush size number 10, and I start with the lightest color in my palette, which is yellow. I paint the center of the flower first and then paint the whole flower with the same color. As you can see, the wax resistance keeps the dye stay inside the wax lines as it creates border all around our design. As you watching me paint, and listening to this therapeutic music, I hope your silk painting journey will be as relaxing and harmony as it does to me. You can choose to paint any color that you like. Just remember, they will mix with each other subsequently. For example, red on yellow makes orange. Blue on yellow makes green. Blue on red makes purple, and so on. What I like about Procion MX Dye is that they produce bright, clear colors and the colors can be mixed in, blended together beautifully. They also give good wash fastness and light fastness on silk, or cotton and on other cellulose fibers such as linen, ryan, bamboo, and flux. As they are cold water dyes, they are one of the best option for Batik because they will not melt the wax resist. To change from one color to the other, I wash the brush with water and wipe it off on a piece of kitchen paper to clean properly and make the brush dry before picking up new color. Then I continue to apply more red onto the center of the orchid flower, blending the red and the yellow and creating darker shade with simple brush strokes. Unlike oil painting, which recommended to start from the darker to the lightest, the tip to paint on silk is to starting from the lightest color to the darkest color, so that you can slowly change the color gradually. Especially when it comes to paint on a larger surface, like the background. To lighten your color, you can add more water into the color mixture. Or you can apply the water onto the fabric first by using a brush and then apply color while the fabric is still wet. I'm happy with the orchid flower, so I will leave it as it is and clean my brush. Next, I'm going to paint the leaves. So I'm opening 3 more colors, which is green, blue, and navy blue. In my experience, these 3 colors mix very well together. I paint in the center of this leaf a mixture of navy blue and blue colour. And on the side of the leaf, I will use green color. As you can see, I'm not washing my brush right now because I want the colors to blend naturally. I'm holding the brush at 90 degree so that I can leverage the pointy surface of the brush, to paint the narrow area of the leaf. And you don't have to touch the lines of the edges because the color will spread out easily on silk, We need to be careful, while painting the outlines of the design as the color may leak outside if we paint over with the brush by mistake. But when we are painting inside the leaf, like this one, it is okay to touch the wax lines with the brush. The next leaf, I use the same colors and I don't need to clean my brush here. Because blue and green tend to mix very well together. When the painting is still wet, you can touch up the color very easy, like so, without making any unwanted marks on the fabric when it's already dried. Then I continue to paint the other leaves with the same colors. This time, I will use the same colors, but I will also add yellow to the leaf so that it will create different effect compared to the other two. If your brush has the darker color like green, and you need to pick up a lighter color like yellow here. It's best to wash your brush before to get the clear yellow color. And if you don't, your yellow color jar may eventually turn on bit greenish or brownish. Here, I'm adding some yellow brushstrokes on the leaves to lighten them up. The following leaf, I paint it differently. I start from yellow color to green, and then navy blue for the darkest area of the leaf. The same technique applied for the next one. You can move the brush gently to mix and blend the colors smoothly together. You can also use other colors for your leaves. They don't have to be the same color like mine. Try something new and blend them together and see the effect on each leaf. And see what do you like the most? This is the beauty that silk painting has to offer. Very often you will find yourself amazed with the colors and unpredictable results that your work turned out to be. For the tree trunk, I'm using grey color. And then we will continuity to paint the remaining of the silk scarf together in the next video, which is the 'Painting on silk - part 2'. See you there! 20. Painting on silk Part 2 : Let's continue to paint our silk scarf. In the previous lesson, we have painted the big orchid flower and the leaves. In this lesson, we are going to paint the remaining details and the background. I choose grey color for the bird, Aa I want the orchid flower to be the center of attention for our scarf. But you can choose any color that you like for the hummingbird. Then I applied navy blue for the remaining tree. As I can see from the leaves on the left hand side, which the color is already dried, and I really like how the navy blue turn out to be. For the small orchid flowers, I use pink color and apply them one by one. After each color, I'd suggest you to clean the brush to pick up the new color. Otherwise, they may mix together unless that is what you want. Here, I make a mistake with my brush by painting outside of those wax lines. Lucky for me, it happens to be navy blue, which is the same color that I'm planning to paint my silk scarf background. The best way to fix the same mistake is to paint on it as soon as you can, before the marks get dry and it will be difficult to blend with new color. So that's why I'm going to paint the background right away. I'm coming in with my brush loaded with paint and covering the mistake area before it dries out. As you can see, once again, I paint from one side to another. And by doing this, I make sure I don't create unwanted dry marks on the way. The tip for painting background is to start painting smaller area first and then moving on to bigger area. And also to mix enough background color for your work so that you don't have to stop in the middle, just to mix a color. And sometimes you may not be able to make exactly the same color that you want, if this color has been mixed by many other colors. That means, if you want to keep track of your colors in order to make exactly the same one again, you will need to have a notebook to write down the exact ratio of dye or water which you use. I personally don't do this because I like to mix new colors every time. But I know many artists who like to keep their color mixing records, and you can also do that if you prefer. If there is too much paint in one area, like in that corner, you can pick it up with a dry brush while it is still wet and paint on the other area. Be careful with your brush while painting near the flower area. You can hold the brush at 90 degree to avoid touching other surface. If we make a mistake here, that part of the flower will turn green because we have blue color in the brush when in contact with yellow flower. When painting on a larger area of the back ground, we need to work faster and keep picking up more paint. As you can see, the dye pigment creating a dark mark on the silk scarf very quickly as I paint. To avoid dry marks, you can paint the whole background wet with water and then apply paint, while the scarf is still wet. Then you can blend the colors easier and you don't have to work so fast. I normally use that technique with other types of normal silk dye. Like Jacquard, Pebeol, Dupont or Javanna, which required steaming to set the dye. Or even when I use silk paints. But with Procion MX dye we don't need to steam our final work, and we also use hot water to remove the wax. So I prefer to not dilute my dye color with water more than what it already is. As we just painted the background of our silk scarf, it is still wet. The color navy blue, seems to be very dark. But if you look at the navy blue on the leaf, which has been dried, the color become lighter and this applied for other colors as well. I applied some purple in the center of the small flowers and highlight them with some more pink on the side. Now I'm adding some more fresh orange on the orchid flower to create darker shades. The yellow orchid flower at this point is already dried. So that's why you don't see the orange spreading that much. And we call it wet on dry technique. The remaining area of the scarf to be painted is the outline. And I choose to use black color for this. You can use a larger size of brush to paint so that it will be faster if you like. Don't miss the hem area of the scarf as it is folded and thicker than the scarf itself. We need to use more dye to make sure the hem stitch is also covered in paint. Once we are done with painting the whole scarf we should wait until it dries completely, before we removed the wax. I'd recommend at least 5 hours or overnight. 21. Painting on cotton Part 1: In the previous lesson, we painted on silk. And in this lesson we'll paint on cotton. I use the same brush, size number 10, but the technique is a bit different. When painting the flower, I also start with the lightest color, yellow, and then use orange and red to create darker shades and mix them together directly on the fabric. From using yellow to orange and then change to red, I don't have to clean my brush. But when picking up yellow color again, I have to clean my brush because I want to keep yellow color in the jar as well as in my brush. The tip for you when painting on fabric is to always start with lighter color first and then slowly develop and change to darker color. If you apply dark color at first, it will be difficult to go back to light color. When I painted on the scarf, I painted the whole flower in yellow color and then apply red color in the center. That technique takes less time than this technique we do it right now because we change the colors every time and blending colors one-by-one. I also want to show you another technique to paint from dark to light. Here I'm applying orange in the middle of the flower petal and then with the same brush, without cleaning I dip it in the yellow color to create dark yellow color, and then wash the brush to pick up pure yellow only. By doing this, we create three shades from orange to dark yellow to yellow in the same petal. I continue to do the same with other petals of the flower using the same painting technique, blending the colors between orange, yellow, and red. If you remember, when I apply soda ash liquid on cotton, I already found out that there were some areas of the design has leakage and I did not fix them because I want to show you how it looks like in this case. You can see a small area where the yellow color leaks from the bottom left petal to the leaf. The best way to fix it is to paint that leaf area yellow, the same color with the petal. Because if we paint other color than yellow, the leakage when then move back to the petal, because the paint will always spread out while it is wet and there is nothing stops it. And later, I will show you what will happen if we paint another color rather than yellow in that leakage area. We will now continue to paint the rest of the flower. To mix the colors evenly, we can pick up a bit of dye or use a dry brush to blend the colors together. For the leaves, I chose green and brown color. I start with a leaf that has a leak area and painted in green color for you to see when the colour goes back into the petal. As I said earlier, if you want to hide the leaks, you should paint it in the same color with the petal, which is yellow. The leaf underneath I paint it brown and some highlight of green. Here I'm also using the same blending technique as I did on the flower. And I'm not cleaning my brush at this point because I don't mind if the two colors mixing together. Now, you can see the green color from the leaf, moves back to the flower petal, a tiny small area. But it's enough to show you what it does to our painting and to understand why it is important for us to trace the wax lines closed completely. So if you have to go over your wax lines the second or the third time to make sure all the lines are not broken, it is worth your time to do so. Another way you can do to avoid that leakage problem is to ensure your wax is hot enough and melted completely before applying on the fabrics. And you can use a larger size of chanting too, for example, size number 2 for silk and size number 3 or 4, for cotton or linen. You can also fix the leakage by stoppainting at this point and wait for the dye to dry completely, then apply the wax again in those leak areas and continue painting again. I did not do that, but continue my painting because I can fix this is by applying darker colors on those leak areas and blend them naturally. I also use pink for the small orchid flowers and navy blue for the cotton placemat background. The same technique applied here as I paint small areas of the background first and then move on to the larger ones. To fix the leakage spots, I decided to darken the whole flower by using red and orange color to making shades for the petals and all around it. That's what you can do if you happen to have the same problem. Because we used the fade our marker pen for this cotton placemat, all the purple lines will disappear and the wax lines remain white color. So now we have done painting the inner side of the cotton placemat. I will see you in the next lesson where we will continue to paint the outlines of the placemat. 22. Painting on cotton Part 2 : In the previous lesson, we have painted the cotton placemat. However, the outline is still remain un-painted in white color as you can see. And also because our wooden stretcher reframe is not big enough, we will paint the outline separately. In order to do that, we need to wait for the dye to get dry completely before we can remove the cotton placemat and then paint the outline area. I put the cotton fabric laying flat on a piece of baking paper and a plastic bag to protect the table. For the outline of the cotton placemat, I choose to paint it red because my other placemats are also in the same color. So they can be a set for my dining table. Try not to move the fabric, while painting or after painting, as the red dye is still wet at this point and it can leak through or mess up your design in the other areas. We wouldn't have to do this step if we use a bigger stretcher frame. But I still want to show you what can be done by using this kind of smaller frame. Or if this is the only frame that you have. 23. Dye bath with cotton fabric old dyes: We have here the cotton fabric, which has been stamped using the Batik textile stamp. And we also apply soda ash liquid on it and wait until it dries completely. In this lesson, we will learn how to make a dye bath using old dye, which is the left over from my previous work. They are 5 weeks old dyes. Normally, Procion MX dyes stay good for at least a couple of weeks at 20 to 26 degree Celsius. Otherwise, if being kept in higher temperature or in the summer, they will go bad more quickly. In order to reactivate and to use old dyes more than 4 weeks, we can mix them with white vinegar. Here you can see the left over dyes I have in 4 colors: yellow, purple, pink, and red. But they are very light colors because they are 5 weeks old. I mix 2 teaspoons (or 1 tablespoon) of white vinegar into 100 milliliters of water, stir it well and then mix all those four colors together in the same cup. The color now becomes stronger together and more vibrant. As you can see, I paint on the kitchen paper. After that, I put the cotton fabric into this dye bath and stir it well for a minute or so. Instead of dipping the fabric into the dye bath, you can also paint on the fabric using a brush, just like how we painted on the outline of the cotton placemat in the previous lesson. However, this dye bath technique is important for you to know if you want to create larger garments for making clothing, curtain, blanket or other furnishing products. And by mixing vinegar with old dyes, the acetic acid in vinegar acts as a mordant and it brings the pH level low enough that the dye bath will help the fibers absorbed the dye. I keep the fabric in the dye bath overnight, and before going to sleep I stir it two more times. I press on the wax areas to create cracking effect to allow the dyes to run through those cracking areas on the fabric. In the morning, I remove the fabric out of the dye bath by gently and firmly squeeze on the dye out of the fabric. Then I lay it flat on a baking paper and wait until it dry completely by air. 24. Remove wax by ironing: Hi everyone, welcome back. So in the previous lessons, we've learned a lot and we have painted our silk scarf, our cotton placemat, and also a cotton fabric that you can use for home decor, such as pillowcase, notebook cover, or anything that you can think of. We have come a long way and there are few remaining steps before our items are ready to be used. Keep in mind that they still have wax on and our job is to remove the wax. We will begin with the silk scarf. In order to remove the wax, we need to first remove the silk scarf form the stretcher frame. I'm using the tool as you can see, it takes a lot less time to remove the fabric than stretching it on the frame. The tip for you, is to keep all the suspension hooks in the same place, advisable in a container with a lid. If you happen to drop a hook and the floor, pick it up immediately because the hook is quite sharp, they are small and very difficult to see. As we should always maintain a safe working environment, not only for ourselves but to others. There are two steps to remove the wax. The first one is ironing by using an electric iron. I put a table cloth laying flat on the table, and then make a sandwich of baking papers with the silk scarf in the middle, set the iron on silk fabric mode and the temperature at level 2. I start to iron from one side of the silk scarf to the other. I use a dry ion for all my Batik works. But if you have a steam iron at home, you can still use it by turn off the steam function and empty the water tank to use a steam iron as a dry iron. Not only for removing wax technique, it's best to use dry iron when you are ironing fabrics for daily basics, like rayon, silk, polyester, since they cannot be steamed iron. Then I remove the baking papers, which have absorbed a lot of wax and replace them with new ones. I continue to iron the same steps and change the papers until I can see the fabric become thinner and not much wax left on it. Next, we are going to remove the wax from the cotton placemat and the cotton fabric, which the same ironing techniques applied. Just remember to set the iron on the right temperature for each fabric type accordingly. And never iron directly on the fabric itself that still have wax on, because it may cause damage to your iron. You can use any kind of absorbent papers for this purpose. But if you want to use newspapers, make sure they are more than 3 months old to avoid transferring the prints on your fabric, unless that is what you want to explore or to create some abstract works. I continue to iron the cotton fabric. As you can see, there's a lot of wax coming out. And don't be surprised how many papers you might need for this step. Here are three items which we have removed the wax by ironing. You can see the beautiful cracking effect, which we did earlier on the cotton fabric. The fabrics are still a bit rough and not ready to be used because they are still having a small remaining amount of wax left on them. And that leads us to the following lesson, where we will learn how to remove the wax by using hot water. 25. Remove wax with water: I use an electric water kettle to boil water to safe time. Then I pour one liter of hot boiling water into a plastic container, adding 1 tablespoon of white spirit, stir it gently and then put my silk scarf inside. I continue to stir for one minute and a half. After that, I move the silk scarf into another bucket of 600 milliliter hot boiling water. I stir the scarf for another minute. Then I put my gloves on to remove the silk scarf out of the bucket. As you can see it is really hot, so please be careful while doing so. Inside the bucket, you can see the melted wax floating on top of the water that looks like fat. And looking at the silk scarf, the wax are already gone after 2 times dipping in hot water with the help of the white spirit. Another way you can do to remove the remaining wax is to pour the white spirit into a glass jar. About two tablespoons or more depends on how much wax left on your fabric. Close the lid and give it a good shake of 2 minutes. And then rinse with hot boiling water. You can do the same with the other fabrics to get the wax out. If you have Synthrapol detergent, you can use it instead of White Spirit. The process is the same, but the amount is different. I use only 1 teaspoon of Synthrapol in 1 liter of hot boiling water. After remove the remaining wax using White spirit or Synthrapol in hot water, the last step is to wash the fabrics, with laundry soap and rinse them well with water. And now we can use room temperature water, just like how you wash your laundry normally by hands. And because at this point all the wax has been removed, you can use the fabric softener if you like to give a nice smell on the fabric and to make the fabric as smooth as it can be. This step works for cotton, but not necessary for silk, because it may leave a coating behind on silk after ironing. Last but not least, for the hot water which we have used to remove the wax. I recommend to keep it in a 5 liter bucket and let it cool down before you dispose it. The best way to do this is to dispose the water on the soil or in your garden and not in your sink because the wax may cause blockage. 26. Final step silk scarf : Once the fabrics have been washed and rinsed well with the water thoroughly, we can start drying them. If you use the washing machine, take the fabrics out while they are still wet. I use hair dryer for a minute or 2 just to speed up the process. But you can also use a dry towel to roll the fabric. This also works fine in removing the excess water. The fabric doesn't need to be completely dried. We only need to make it damp or less soaking wet before ironing it. I found it works much easier for ironing when the fabric is still a bit wet. It helps to remove on the wrinkles immediately and also smooth out the hem area of the scarf quicker. Before ironing the completed work, you should check if there is any wax stain on the iron. If so, you can remove it by ironing into a piece of fabric that you won't use for anything else, just to clean the iron. Although, it never happened to me because I always use the absorbent papers and iron on the papers and never ironed directly on the fabric that has wax on. Iron from one side of the scarf to the other with one hand holding the scarf on the table firmly so it won't move around while I work. I also turn the fabric to make the ironing process easier. The silk scarf is almost dry now. And you can see the permanent black marker pen is still remain beautifully blending with the white marks from the wax lines which have been applied as the resistance. You can also see the shining effect of the silk habotai. This is what I love the most about this choice of material. The black outline on this scarf turned out to be very light, almost like grey color. If you want the colors to be darker, you can mix the dye with less water as I have explained on video 19: mix dye colors. Here is a picture of me wearing my handmade silk scarf, which I did throughout this course. You can also use this scarf to decorate your handbag or to make a hair band. Please share your photo with the work you made after this course. I'd be very happy and excited to see them. 27. Final step cotton placemat: The same process applied here for ironing the cotton fabric while it is still damp. Don't forget to change the setting mode of the iron to cotton fabric as it requires higher temperature than silk fabric. Once the cotton fabric is dried, we continue to iron it with the linen fabric, which is on the same sign we have pre-cut it earlier. You can also use any other fabric that you already have at home instead of Linen. Then we turn the cotton fabric around and make sure the front side of the fabric is laying downward on the linen. After that, we turn both of the fabrics together. This time having the linen fabric facing up. We can use a ruler and a fade out marker pen to draw the lines as a guideline for where we're going to do the hand stitch. Or you can use a sewing machine for this step, If you have one at home. I'll draw one centimeter outline all around the linen fabric. I'm going to use red colored thread, just a normal threat that you can find anywhere in local store. Put it through a needle. I'm using size number 11, and I make two knots to make sure it won't get loose. Before you start sewing, check one more time to make sure that the front side of the cotton fabric is facing inward in the inner side of the two fabrics. I start from the right corner until I sew 3 sides of the placemat together. If you have a sewing machine and know how to use it, then by all means, you can use it and don't have to sew by my hands, unless you want to. This took me about 10 minutes to sew the 3 sides of the placemat together. Once we are done with that, we can turn the placemat inside out. I continue to adjust the placemat until I have even edges. You can use your index finger to push on the fabrics corners evenly. Then we need to use the iron again to flat out on those edges. The remaining area has not been stitched together, we turn the fabrics inward and then I iron them firmly. After ironing, we stitch them together. This time we do it from the outside and we hide the knot in-between the two fabrics like so. Then we continue to sew all around 4 sides of the placemat until we are done. This is how it looks like from the front and back of the placemat. I'm also adding some photos of my other placemats for you to see and to get an idea of what you can make for your dining table. This could be a great idea for personalized a special gift for your family and loved ones. Or you can do it together as a fun and creative activity. 28. Final step cotton fabric: We do the same for this cotton fabric as we did in the previous video for ironing step. I use this fabric for demonstration in my classes. But you can use it for anything that you like. You can make another placemat using it if that's what you want. For painting on larger fabrics, This textile stamp painting technique in a dye bath will help you in producing your work much faster. And it is often being used for commercial purposes, such as making your own textile brand, fashion wear, home decor items or furnish decorations and so on. There are endless ideas of do it yourself (DIY) products which you can make for your home. Check out Pinterest to find more unique ones if you haven't got some already in mind. And yeah, I hope that you will find yourself enjoying the process of creating your handmade art and craft, just like I do. And have a lot of fun with it. 29. Thank you : Throughout this course, what I love the most is that I know it will help many of you to start off with the right materials and products, as well as techniques to paint on all natural fabrics, in particular silk and cotton, which we used in this course. I love that it helps you to create your own selections of fabrics. Whether you want to wear it or to use it as decorations for your home, or to make your own handmade items and sell it. Whichever you decided to do, with the knowledge you have learned, you can save money from buying expensive products, which very often are printed by a machine. And there are thousand pieces of the same design on the market. Wouldn't it be so amazing to be able to make for yourself something really unique, something really you, and something so special that only comes in one piece? I believe the answer is different for every individual. But if you love handmade like I do, that's also a reason why you are here, I hope that you will take this information and share it with someone that you know or someone who is interested, so that they too can learn and create something beautiful. In our busy lifestyle nowadays, I can understand it is hard to find spare time to do what you like in which we call a hobby. But believe me, it's worth the time spending. And I highly recommend you to make time to do the things you love. Because working with your hands helps you reduce stress and improve your mood. It brings you into the state of flow with yourself and making you feel better, which is benefiting your mental as well as physical health. This is something not only good for yourself, but also for people in your circle, family and friends. It took me almost three months to create this course, from recording to creating contents, then to record my voice. Sometimes it felt like it would never end because I kept editing them one after another. But the one thing that keeps me going is knowing that it would be a big motivation for you all from my story, and how far I have come to achieve my dreams. And now doing what I love full time. I hope it will inspire you and give you a little push that we all needed at one point in our lifetime, to go out of our comfort zone, to do something totally new and to find ourselves while we are doing just that. Art has changed my life forever for the better, it picked me up and took me out of depression. And that's also the most important reason why I want to share my knowledge with you. Because I love people and I know how difficult it is to fight the battle on your own. I want to help you to fight whatever it is that you are fighting right now in your life, in my own way of giving you what I know best. And I want to end this course by saying, thank you, thank you very much for taking the course and to go through it. I hope that you enjoyed it and please give me your feedback, I'd be highly appreciated because it will help me to record better online courses in the future, since this is my first one. And I'll leave you with a quote of Simon Sinek that may inspire you to be the better version of yourself that you always know you have got. What good is an idea, if it remains an idea, try, experiment, integrate, fail, try again, and change the world.