Sewing Masterclass

1. 1. 1 Introduction: The clothing that we wear is a perception of ourselves. Finding the garment that looks great on you is satisfying creating and designing it yourself is even better. Hi, I'm Shirley. I'm a fashion designer. I hold a degree in fashion designing, I have been in this field for over 15 years. I'm a fashion designer partner of Fashionous, which is a platform offering unique products, and services related to fashion. In this course, you will learn to tailor your dresses to your liking. We will learn three types of dresses in this course, A-line dress, a collar dress, and a three-tier dress. I'll show you the Fabrics that are needed for the dresses, and how much material is required for each of them. We lay the fabric, position the pattern and cut them. All that you have learned. You can create new designs patterns, for kids, girls and young women. Design and create your own clothes to give your wardrobe a new personality. 2. 2.1 Tools Needed: These are the tools that you require for the course. The scale, long scale, the bend scale, The L-Scale. The French scale Measuring tape. The marking chalk Marking pens Paper cutting scissor, fabric-cutting scissor, Zippers Thread cutter Thread Ripper Pins and needles for hemming. Bobbins Interface. Pattern paper. Iron box A sewing machine. 3. 2.2 Threads Overview: Threads, we usually take the swatches of the fabric to match it. Please use good-quality threads. 4. 2.3 Important Notes: I would suggest that you would go through the whole course before you purchase your fabrics and supplies so that you can decide which pattern you want to use for whom. If you feel adventurous and you want to accessorize the plain fabric, you can go through the bonus part. 5. 3 Introduction to the Sewing Machine: This is the sewing machine that we will be using For the course. Here is the power plug. Here is a power plug for the machine, which is also attached to the Press Footer. Here's your hand wheel, which will turn towards you to lift up your needle up and down. Here's your spool pin for the thread. Here's your bobbin Pin for winding the thread on the bobbin. Here's the thread guide where it will help you to guide in and thread your needle. Here's your tension Selector. Use a selector for your stitches, Wherein you have different kind of stitches. This is the lever for the back stitch. Here's the lever for the Press footer For Lifting it up and down. Here's your bobbin shuttle area. This is the bobbin case where in the bobbin is placed. 6. 4 Measurements: How to take proper measurements From shoulder point to shoulder point. This is the shoulder measurement from here, you take your back neck. Lower Bust, your Upper bust Around your bust. This is your waist. Here is for the hip, Please take around your full hip. Your front neck depth, Your underarm. The sleeve length Around the sleeve To take the length of the dress Desired length till here. But I would suggest that you take it from the back for the XL and XXL sizes. 7. 5.1 A-Line Dress Pattern Marking: Take the pattern paper on fold. Mark the length of the dress. The bustline. Waistline And the depth of the neck Mark the shoulder point Width of the bust. Width of the waist. Width of the hip. The total flare of the dress From the shoulder point a line is drawn to the bust line to form the underarm. The extended part of the bust line becomes the under arm Draw the waistline, The hip line, Using the bend scale, draw a curved line joining all the marks you just made. Using the scale, draw the bend of the flare. Using the French scale, Draw the curve for the underarm. Now we are marking the front neck. We are drawing the line across to shape the neck From the shoulder point, Mark quarter inch below then from the neck point, join to the point mark. Cut the paper pattern along the lines marked. Using the front piece, Mark the back part and then cut. Mark the back neck. Now, the A-line paper pattern is ready. 8. 5.2 A-Line Dress Fabric Details: For the a-line dress will be using a printed cotton fabric. This is the concealed zip and closest matching thread. 9. 5.3 A-Line Dress Fabric Placement & Cutting: Make sure to iron out all the creases. Check to see if the length of the fabric matches to the length of your dress. We will be using the wrong side of the fabric lengthwise On fold. Place the paper pattern onto the fabric. And align the edges properly and start to mark. This is optional. You can also directly cut After this. The front piece is ready, and marked. Fabric is ready for cutting. Here you have it. Your front piece is ready. The front neck is cut. We're marking the back neck. We're going to cut it. Your front piece and your back piece is ready for stitching. 10. 5.4.1 A-Line Dress Sewing - Part 01: Cut diagonally. With the width of One and half inches, making a long tape. Join the edges of the tape to make it long enough for the neck and the underarm. Now, take the front piece in the back, piece of the fabric, align the shoulder. Start stitching. Do the same for the next shoulder Stitch it again. making a double Stitch Take the cross piece or bias tape Start attaching on the neckline. Make sure it's aligned properly to the neck. Once you reach the edge of the neck, cut the extra bias tape. And do a back stitch. Turn over the dress. And fold the bias tape, to make the proper finish. Stitch across Now, you can see the finished neck. 12. 6.1.1 Collar Neck Dress Pattern Marking - Part 01: We are going to Mark the front part of the body. The length of the bodice plus seam allowance. Half inches marked and draw a line for seam allowance for zipper. Mark, the bust width Draw the bust line. Draw the waistline. Connect the shoulder point to the bust line. Using the French scale Mark the underarm using the bench scale join the points. Neck point, the neck length. Draw the lines. Check the neck. Mark, the midpoint. Now, cut the paper pattern. Make a notch at the midpoint of the neckline Your front bodice is ready. Hold the seam allowance on the front. Bodice as shown. And begin marking the back bodice. Mark the back neck. Now, cut the back part. Your back bodice is ready. We shall start marking the sleeve. Check the notes to understand it better. 13. 6.1.2 Collar Neck Dress Pattern Marking - Part 02: Cut the sleeve pattern. Notch the midpoint. The sleeve is ready. Mark the collar. Now cut the collar Notch the midpoint. Your collar is ready. Mark the length of the bottom. The waist width. Shape it. Width of the Flare. Using the bend scale shape it. Use this method to give the proper Bend at the end of the bottom. Now we shall cut. Your bottom part is ready. This is the overall Outlook of the dress. 14. 6.2 Collar Neck Dress - Fabric Details : For the penny dress or shirt dress. We are using a cotton Jacquard fabric, a metallic zipper. A cotton lining for the bodice front and back and even to attach the zipper matching thread. 15. 6.3 Collar Neck Dress Fabric Placement & Cutting: Place the fabric on fold on the wrong side. We are going to start by placing the paper pattern of the front piece on the fabric, start to mark. You're going to start cutting the front body part. Now, your front piece is ready. Now, We will be placing the back part. Align it and start to mark. We shall start cutting. Your back piece is ready. We shall now begin by marking the sleeve. Now, you shall cut the sleeve. Your sleeves are ready. You're notching it for the midpoint. Don't forget to separate the sleeves if cut on fold. You can check if you have enough fabric to Mark and cut the bottom. If not readjust and check again. Place the paper pattern and Mark. Start to cut. You can place the same fabric, which is cut. To cut the second piece. Or as shown using the paper pattern. Begin marking. Start to cut. The front and back of the bottom can be marked and cut on fold, but to utilize the fabric efficiently here. We have the back of the bottom into two pieces. Place the paper pattern of the collar on the fabric. Here the fabric is not on fold, but you can do it Start to cut. Fold the cut piece. Place it on the fabric. And cut along. Now, you have two parts of the collar. Place the front piece of the fabric on the lining and cut. Do the same with the back piece on the fold Your back piece is ready with the lining. 17. 6.4.1.2 Collar Neck Dress Sewing - Part 01.2: Now, we are going to attach the zipper. Now, your zipper is attached. Cut the extra zipper. Now, we are going to mark the dot on the waistline. Notch the dot with the other side, too. Here is a technique where the needle is used to Mark the dot equally on the other side. Stick to the dot. Make dots on the back bodice, as well. Your back part is ready. Align the front and the back bodice together. Join the shoulders. 18. 6.4.2.1 Collar Neck Dress Sewing - Part 02.1: Mark the wrong side. Take the interface and cut the collar. Place interface on the wrong side and iron it. Join both the pieces of the collar. This is the technique used to make the edges of the collar sharp. Make notches. Turn over and tug at the thread. Here you have it a sharp-looking collar. 19. 6.4.2.2 Collar Neck Dress Sewing - Part 02.2: Attach the collar to the bodice. Now the collar is attached. Mark the wrong side. Fold and Stitch the bottom of the sleeve. One sleeve is ready, Do the same on the other one. Attach the sleeve to the body. Do the same on the other side. Your bodice is ready. 21. 6.4.3.2 Collar Neck Dress Sewing - Part 03.2: One side is attached. Do the same for the other side. Fold the bottom edge and stitch. A small pleat is done to define the Curve. Your collar dress is ready. 22. 7.1 Three-Tier Dress Pattern Marking: Now we shall do the marking for the three-tier dress. Mark the front part of the body. Do the same procedure of the bodice of the collar neck, except the sleeves on the front seam allowance of the zip Which in this dress is at the back. Mark, the neck and shape. Cut the front part of the bodice. The front part is ready. Mock the back part using the front pattern, leaving the half inch for seam allowance. Mark the back neck and shape. Cut the back part. The back part is ready. We will be marking and cutting the layer of the tier. This cut pattern. Will be used for making all the three layers of the tiers for the two part, three part and four-and-a-half part. The paper patterns are ready. 23. 7.2 Three-Tier Dress - Fabric Details: For the three tier dress we will be using a printed Lizi Bizi fabric. A contrast fabric, which will be used in the mid portion. Aligning sandcrepe fabric. Concealer zip. And matching thread. 24. 7.3.1 Three Tier Dress Fabric Placement & Cutting - Part 01: Check the right and the wrong side of the fabric and on fold, place the fabric. Place the front piece of the paper pattern and mark. Start to cut the front part. Your front piece is ready. Place the back paper pattern. And start to mark. Please note. We need two individual parts of the back to attach the zipper. You can also have it on fold to Mark and cut it into separate part. We have readjusted the fabric on fold, on the wrong side. Place the paper pattern on the fabric to mark the first tier. Two parts of the first tier is ready. 26. 7.4.1.1 Three Tier Dress Sewing - Part 01.1: Using pins, Attach the lining and the front part together. Stitch them together. The front bodice with lining is ready. Notch the midpoint and the dots. Stitch the dot. Using the pins, attach the lining and back part. Sew them. One part of the back bodice is ready. Do the same for the other part. 28. 7.4.2.1 Three Tier Dress Sewing - Part 02.1: We are going to make the bias tape for the neck and the underarm. Mark one and half inch and cut. The bias tape is ready. Attach the bias tape on the neck. The neck finishing is done. 29. 7.4.2.2 Three Tier Dress Sewing - Part 02.2: Attach the bias tape on the sleeves The finishing is done for the neck and the underarm. Join the two pieces of the first tier. Join the three pieces of the second tier. Join all pieces of the third tier. This is the technique we are using to make the frills. Attach the bias tape on the sleeves. The frills for the first tier are ready. 30. 7.4.3.1 Three Tier Dress Sewing - Part 03.1: Follow the same procedure for the second tier and third tier. Join, the two pieces of the lining together and do the frills. 31. 7.4.3.2 Three Tier Dress Sewing - Part 03.2: Notch the first tier at the midpoint. Notch the second tier at the midpoint to align both the parts while stitching. The first layer and second layer are ready. 32. 7.4.4.1 Three Tier Dress Sewing - Part 04.1: We are attaching the second tier and the third tier. All the three layers are attached. The lining and the bottom are stitched together. Fold and Stitch the edge of the bottom of the lining. join the main part of the bottom. 34. 8.1 How to Turn it into a Party Wear: I'm going to show you some fabrics that you can Jazz up your dress for special occasions and party-wear like Shimmer. These are sequined fabric. You can use fancy nets This is an embroidered georgette, fancy chiffons and some colorful brocades 35. 8.2 How to add Accessories: We can accessorize our dresses by using Scarfs, Belts, Stoles Laces, Brooches and Buttons. 36. 8.3 How to make the dress for kids: For kids, you can use, satin ribbons, flowers, net fabric. You can use matching hair, bands, and matching leggings. 37. 9.1 Outlook of the Dresses we created: City-states. 38. 9.2 Bust & Back Darts: This is your A-Line dress. And if you have all your underarm is loose, you can make the bust dart from this point to this point. You can even have back darts to give more shaping and more fitting. You can accessorize and give a good look by using a satin ribbon or a belt, anything to make it look good. 39. 9.3 Congrats on completing the course!: I want to congratulate you for completing the, entire course, a big Applause for putting all the effort and following through. I'm sure by now you have gained enough knowledge and feel encouraged to create fabulous dresses for yourself. And for your loved ones. Please don't hesitate to contact us for any queries and doubts. I'll address them as much as I can. Please do share your feedback in the comments section. It will help us to improve, do share your pictures via Instagram using hashtag. #Learnwithfashionous. With your permission. We shall share your pictures in our social media, which will inspire others to follow your footsteps. Thank you.