Serger/Overlock Machine Quick Start Guide with Brother 1034D | Mary Rose | Skillshare
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Serger/Overlock Machine Quick Start Guide with Brother 1034D

teacher avatar Mary Rose, Illustrator & Designer

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      1:37

    • 2.

      Parts & Accessories

      2:52

    • 3.

      Threading

      5:50

    • 4.

      Machine Operation

      7:12

    • 5.

      Specialty Stitches

      8:07

    • 6.

      Machine Maintenance

      6:28

    • 7.

      Class Project

      1:29

    • 8.

      Thank You

      1:19

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About This Class

Everything you need to know about serger/overlock machines!

Learn the complete operation guide for a basic serger. Getting started with all the parts and accessories, threading, and basic operations and mechanics. Follow the steps to create the basic chain stitch, with an overview of how to get the correct tension. I’ve also included advanced lessons for decorative stitches like the blind hem, flatlock, and rolled hem, utilizing an accessory presser foot. Closing with an overview of my best practice maintenance tips and cleaning recommendations, to extend the machine's life.

You don’t need a lot of supplies to take this class, the basic tools that come with a serger, some scrap fabric, and some of the cleaning supplies mentioned in the first lesson will be all you need.

Lesson Overview:

  • Breakdown of the parts and accessories for the serger
  • How to thread the machine
  • Demonstrate basic operation of the machine
  • Specialty Stitches
  • Machine Maintenance and Cleaning

Don’t forget to keep your serger manual close at hand for the machine you’re using!

My Serger Model: Brother 1034d

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Mary Rose

Illustrator & Designer

Teacher

Hi, I'm Mary Rose! I'm a freelance illustrator, teacher, sewist, and all-around crafty person based in Portland, OR.

Since graduating with my degree in Graphic Design in 2018 I've worked as an in-house designer, freelance illustrator, and remote illustration instructor.

Teaching turned into an unexpected passion, utilizing my life-long love of learning and problem-solving.

When I'm not creating something, you can find me deep in a book (nonfiction or fantasy) with a mug of coffee and my cats on my lap. ?

See full profile

Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Hi, my name is Mary Rose. I've been sewing for over ten years now. And one of the most intimidating aspects when I first got started was learning how to use the searcher. I first got my surgery to so exclusively knit fabrics. I love the idea of having something too quickly and professionally finished my seams. And I thought it would make my sewing like ten times faster. However, after getting my surgery, I developed a phobia about it. I kept it with the same thread. I rarely change any of the settings and I just used it for chain stitching alone, which is fine, but I was barely tapping into its potential. In this class, you will learn all the parts and accessories you need for your surgery. How to thread the machine, basic operations, stitches, advanced stitches, and the most important cleaning and maintenance of your machine. So at last you many years to come. So this class is perfect for anyone looking to buy a surgery for the first time or someone who already has a surgery. And they're trying to figure out how to use it for your project. You simply have to create a sample swatch of any of the stitches you are able to accomplish in this class. I've provided a stitch, a diary to help catalog and record the settings in any notes for your specific machine. This really helps my process and will help you going from setting to setting a lot easier Up next, using my machine as an example, I'm going to cover all the parts and accessories of the searcher. 2. Parts & Accessories : Using my machine as an example, I'll cover all of the basic parts and accessories that come with the searcher. Here on the side of the machine, you have the cord in on an off switch. The cord is attached to the foot pedal, which gauges the speed that you saw and is used down at the foot. Here at the front, you have the tension dials. The two on the left are for the needles and the two on the right are for the upper and lower looper thread. Moving onto the back of the machine where the thread tree is that holds the thread here on the little thread holders that you may need to move to keep the thread secure. That doesn't fall off as you. So the lever on the side raises and lowers the presser foot, which is connected to the shank in the back. The presser feet are removable, interchangeable, creating different stitch options. Here on the inside you have the knives that I'm pointing to. Those can be changed with the normal screwdriver. There are two blades, the upper and lower, and it cuts the fabric as you. So here are my needles with the model on the screen easily removable. Here on the right is the hand wheel that is turned towards you. You will use the iloc to change the needle's position. Here is a little storage component that unlocks the free arm so you can do things like sleeves easily. Coming down to the left side panel where you can disengage the knife. You can see that up here the knife will no longer move and then change things like length, width and stitch differential feed ratio. Here's opening the front cover. All of these internal mechanisms you'll have to get comfortable with when we thread. Here's a lesser known component. Then I'm changing the position for called the stitch finger. This can be removed to get specialty stitches like the rolled hem. Standard practice for chain stitches is just to keep it inside the machine. Tweezers are the most important accessory for threatening. Keep them on hand at all times. Here are the detachable presser feet. My machine has three options. You might have something different. I'll be showing them multipurpose foot later. Here are my basic tools is screwdriver and then the Allen wrench for my needles. Make sure you keep something sharp on hand. The cut the thread, scissors or snips do well. Something you may need to purchase at some machine oil. I'll be demonstrating how to use this in the machine maintenance and cleaning section. You will also need a dusk brush of some sort. Artists brush work well too. Here's an optional accessory, a vacuum attachment to suck out the dust from the machine. I just attach this to my normal vacuum. Alright, Those are all of the parts of the surgery. In the next lesson, I'm going to walk you through the entire threading process. 3. Threading: Welcome back. Now we're going to thread the machine, makes sure you have your tweezers. I'll be showing you the fourth red option. If your machine is threatened life mine simply cut the threads at the top and then you'll want to change the tension this to zero. This makes it easier to simply pull the thread out of the machine. Raise the presser foot, move the needle to the highest position, and then slowly turning the machine on. Pull out the thread. Go slowly and stop. If you feel any tension. When you're done, check the inside of the machine for any broken threads to remove. And don't forget to turn off the machine. Next you want to change the machine tension back to four all the way across. This is the standard starting position for the basic chain stitch. I'm going to be demonstrating threatening with all four threads to start raise your needle to its highest position. And now you're going to thread the upper looper or the third one across, start by pulling the thread through the thread tree and then follow the numbers. Release the tension disk with three as you pull it through so it will be properly installed. Now you will follow the guides inside of the machine, 56.7 on the hooks. And then using the tweezers, you want to push the thread through the upper loop or towards the back. Now for the thread through 56.7, carefully and then pick up your tweezers. You can use a three letter or a magnifying glass to help this process. But you want to carefully push the thread through the upper looper, makes sure the presser foot is raised because you're going to want to pull the thread back and under the presser foot, giving yourself four or 5 " of clearance. So you don't actually, um, thread the machine. Up. Next, we're going to thread the lower looper. This is in the fourth position. Pull the thread through the Fred tree and then to the die number to release the tension this and pull it tight through. Just like before, you're going to hook in 56.7. But unlike the last one, there is a new mechanism that blue arrow, it comes out and you will hook it and then pull the thread through the lower looper. Now I'm going to demonstrate hook the threads like before. Following the blue line this time. Give yourself a lot of thread clearance, pull it taut. So you have some working thread. And now you want to pull out that blue arrow lever right there. Then I'm pointing to and then in the back there's a little latch that you want to hook the thread on right back there. It's a group that thread fits perfectly. Use the tweezers and your finger to create some tension on the thread. Latch into that lever and push it closed. It's a little difficult sometimes. And now you're going to thread the lower looper, making sure you're pulling it straight back in through. So it's under the upper looper. Do not criss cross the threads or you'll have to do it. Again. It can be a little tricky, but just slowly pull it through and out through the back. Just like before. Try not to catch on anything and give yourself some extra thread at the back and pull. Now we just have the needle to thread. You're going to start with the one on the right, which is in position two, and then the one on the left, starting at the top, you want to thread it through thread Stan and then through the guide and release the tension disk and pull it through. Following the arrows, you just want to pull the thread through four and then around the five, pull some extra thread and then pull it through that little guide in the front of the needles. This helps keep it in track. And then you just want to push the thread through the right needle. It can be a little tricky. Take your time waxing the thread can help. In just like with the other threads. The goal is to pull it back in under the presser foot to join the rest of the threads. Makes sure all of the threads are together. And then we can move on to the final left needle, goes through the top, through the guide and pull it through the tension just like before. Then you are going to simply do the same, pulling it around the number five and into the guide right there in the front. Be careful the thread can get tangled pretty easily. And you just want to push the thread right through that left needle. Again trying not to twist or not the thread. Once you get it through, you just want to pull the thread slowly towards the back. And on the right under the presser foot joining the rest of the threads. Now we're going to make sure that all the threads are secured behind the presser foot. And we can turn on the machine and test a chain stitch. Slowly press down on the foot pedal and let the machine work to create the chain. If you do not get a chain, cut the threads and try again. Now trim it leaving three to 4 ". Now your machine is ready to join me in the next lesson where I cover a basic machine operations. 4. Machine Operation: Welcome back. Let's cover the basic operation mechanics of the surgery. I've set my machine onto the standard settings. You may want to change the stitch length and width based on the stitch style or the thickness of the fabric. Here is a stitch width with five being the standard. R stands for rolled hem, which we'll cover later. It does take a little muscle to move the levers, but you should rarely need to change the settings. This disengages the knife. It will stop it from moving as you So last thing to cover is differential feed. Differential fee refers to the feed dogs under the presser foot that pulls the fabric. The searcher has two sets, front and back. This lever changes the speed of just the front feed dogs, which changes the ratio of speed between the two. When set at one, both are moving at the same speed. Less than one slows down the front feed dogs stretching the fabric as you. So this is good for lightweight fabric that puckers. When you move it to greater than one, you will gather or ruffle the fabric. This is great for a uniform gathering of the fabric. However, if you were sewing with stretchy fabric, that gets wavy, you might want to use a higher value, prevents the stretchy fabric from being pulled as the stitches made, which is what creates the way the effect. I know this sounds a little complicated, but all you have to think about is low equals slow, which equals pool and stretches. And high number equals fast, which equals rippled. Tension refers to the color number dials on the front. This is both the pro and con of using a surgery. You have so much variability, you can create different stitches and techniques just by changing these numbers. But it tends to be a little troublesome. It can take time to learn the placement and tension for all four and figure out how each individual tension affects the whole stitch. The loopers are what you want to adjust first, let's do a test. Make sure you have a tail chain of three to 4 ". Lift the presser foot so the swatches right under an up against the blade. I like to look at the notch on my foot to eyeball where the stitches will start. Gently press on the foot pedal and the machine will pull the fabric for you, cutting the edge as you go. The thread should be at the top with both loopers on equal sides, with a seam in the middle and at the bottom. If one of the sides of a looper thread is pooled, you need to adjust the tension. I'm going to lower the looper tension to give an example of what that looks like. As you can see, the looper thread is hanging off the top of the edge and there's a lot more loose and unruly. So the tension definitely needs tightened. Next, I'm going to show you what it looks like when I increase the tension. Here's the result. You can tell that the looper threads are a lot more ten. It looks pretty good. I could even say this is a good result. But the back does look a little pinch, which is how, you know, it's a little tight. Finally, I wanted to show you an imbalance examples. So I've loosened the lower loop or again, and we can see what that looks like. You wouldn't think it would be very obvious, but you can see that the blue threads is little peeking out over the edge just show it's a lot looser. And it just seems like it's imbalanced with the front stitch. Now I'm going to show a final example of them, even in a little tighter to get that perfect stitch. Here's the balanced stitch. The stitches right up to the edge. There's no puckering, no loose threads in the back looks is balances the front. You may be wondering, what do you do with the tails? You just cut them off? No. You don't want to just cut them off because they can unravel, use them for a check to lock in the edges or weave in the tail with a tapestry needle or something equivalent. It can be a little challenging, but it's nice if you have solid surge edges like for a napkin e.g. to get that clean finish. But most of the time I'm just going to surge right over the tails of my other seems try to keep them locked. But this is a great method. If you have raw corners. After you weave it through, you can take the snips and snip off any remainder and extra secure it with the fray, check if you want, but it's good to go. I know the surge edge can look very intimidating, but it's actually not that hard to remove the surge stitch. You want to focus on the needle threads at the bottom and in the middle. I just wanted to go and create a section where the threads are ripped out. And then once you do that, you can open up the seam and start tearing out the stitches across. Don't worry about the looper threads. You just focus on the needle threads. They hold everything together. Once you get rid of the needle thread, the looper thread will just follow this side. Just keep pulling and cutting the needle thread to unlock the stitch. Once it's open, it looks a lot like a regular seem and then you can just pull off the remainder thread. Now let's talk about three thread applications. First you want to change the needle so there's only one left. I'm going to remove my left needle. I'm just using the tool, loosening it and gently removing it. It can be a little challenging, but removing the presser foot really helps this process. You can also try to remove the needle wallets, threatened by lifting the presser foot, moving the needle to the highest position, and then carefully cutting that thread and removing that needle carefully use your tweezers to pull on the thread. You'll just want to make sure you get that left thread and it may get tangled, which is why I don't always recommend this. It can be challenging to not mess up the threading of the machine. But if you can successfully remove the thread, then you just remove the needle like I showed previously. Use a test swatch to test and make sure that you got the threading correct and nothing is broken. The same principles apply as checking the tension as when doing the fourth red. As you can see, I have the loosen things a little bit to get the perfect tension. But now I'm doing my final example with it dialed in. And I can show you what the three threads should look like. Very similar to the fourth row. You're just missing that middle stitch. That middle stitches now the bottom stitch, as you can see, now that you know how to chain stitch, meet me in the next lesson to learn three additional stitches. 5. Specialty Stitches: Welcome back. In this lesson we're going to learn three new stitches, flat lock, rolled hem, and blind him, which is what we're going to use this multi-purpose foot next, this might be called the blind him or multi foot for your machine. But either way, the main feature is the screw that changes where the guide goes so you can make precision stitches. Now you're going to turn off your machine, raise your presser foot. Now there's a little black lever behind the presser foot that you just want to press and it will fall down and you can remove it, store it safely, and get out the multipurpose foot. You'll notice the bar at the back, that's where it's going to attach from the shank. So you just want to visually place it under using the right lever to raise the foot. When it's lined up, hold that back lever again and then put down the presser foot and it should snap into place and you're ready to go. Now the change the tension for the blind hem stitch, I'm only using the right needle and you want to lower the tension 0-2 for the upper loop or five, this seven for the lower loop or two to four, take a folded hem, turn the wrong side of the fabric out, fold the fabric ones, and then back onto itself. The machine will stitch along the edge, just catching the fold which will look invisible when unfolded. Here it is again, take the fold and turn it over on itself. This is the wrong side. Make sure your hem is even all the way around. You may want to pin and measure to keep this fold consistent. For the example, you just want to keep your eye on the fold and the needle. We're going to be placing this under the multipurpose foot and adjusting screw so the needle just barely hits the fold. The closer you are to the folds, the more invisible it will look on the outside. So this may take a few tries to get the most invisible stitch. Now you just want to impress on the foot pedal and slowly let the machine take the fabric, keep your eye on the fold. So it stays right next to the guide so that your hem stays consistent throughout. My favorite part about this stitch is that the knife cleans up the edge, creating a really nice clean finish on the inside. Leave a bit of a chain and cut. Here's the result. You just want to unfold and press out the same. So I think we need to try again, since this looks more like a flat box ditch, need to get closer to the fold. I dialed in my foot to be even closer to the fold. You can see the needles just barely touching that fold. So hopefully we'll have a very good blind hem resolve. Here's the finished product. If this was matching thread, I think it'd be nearly invisible. So, yeah, this is why I really loved this foot. It's great for blind hymns of all types. The next stitch is called the flat lock stitch. I don't recommend this on fragile fabric. It is a great option for the seamless look of body suits or swimwear. The recommended settings for my machine or a needle tension of zero to two, upper loop or four to five and the lower looper of eight to nine, also a length of two to four. I'm keeping it on the standard length. For my example, I'm only using the right needle with three threads. So you want to take a fold and you're going to stitch along the folded edge. This would act as a decorative treatment. The second option is to take two pieces of fabric or a fold and create a seam as a piecing technique, for this, you would want to disengage the blade. But for my example, I'm just going to show you it on the fold. Place the folded edge under the multipurpose foot and adjust the gods so that the needle is around an eighth of an inch inside of the folder. You want the loopers to be hanging off the edge of the fabric, giving it room to turn. With the needle in the right position, you're gonna get a narrow ladder stitch. If you want a more wider decorative look, use the left needle. Here's the final result. You have to pull it out to get that ladder stitch. I do think I want to try a second pass because it seems a little tight. But that's what it looks like. The front and the back. I'm adjusting the guide so the needle will come in a little bit more and giving it a second pass. Same thing as before. Making sure I'm keeping the fold up against the guide. Here. You want to make sure that the loopers are off of the edge. This will give you turning room. You can see that here. When you unfold it, the stitches will come flat like the first example, you have to tug a little bit. Pressing it out with the iron really helps. But the lower needle tension is what makes the ladder stitch possible. The final stitches, the narrow rolled him. It's very useful for finishing off then Ghazi fabric or creating decorative edges. You do need to change the settings on the side panel, but just to the our settings, which means rolled him. So both the length and the width change it to the R and you're good to go. For my attention settings, I'm changing the right needle to form. The upper loop or two is six and the lower looper two, three-and-a-half. This does not mean these will be your settings. So tests with your machine. Removing the stitch finger as necessary to complete the thin rolled him look, raise the presser foot and lower the upper looper into its lowest position. Then you're safe to remove the stitch finger by pressing the lever and it will just pop out like that and store it for safekeeping. I also need to remove my multipurpose foot and replace it with a universal foot for the rolled hem stitch. Place the fabric onto the foot and lower the presser foot and let the machine do the work. This stitch is a lot slower than the other stitches, so don't get frustrated and try to keep the fabric straight. Here's the results of the first attempts. It seems that the blue thread is a little loose. It doesn't seem as Titan uniform, so I'm going to give it a second go after tightening the loopers. This is the result E1. It looks very clean and uniform in both sides look exactly the same. When you think decorative thread, it really creates a beautiful Bound result. I love using this as a decorative finish. Here's the first and second attempt. I definitely needed to tighten the tension on the loopers. After doing these decorative stitches, make sure you return your machine to the normal settings so you don't get confused when you go back to it later. To replace this stitch finger lower the upper looper, raise the presser foot and hold in that lever as you insert it where the colors match. Once you've placed that back in your machine, you want to go back to the side panel in switch the settings back to the normal settings. Mine are boxed in and black, five with three links and keeping the differential fee that one. Alright, Those are the specialty stitches I wanted to show you today. But keep your eye out for any other presser feet that might've come with your machine like the gathering foot tape, foot, piping foot or Perl sequence foot. We're not done yet. Stay tuned for the next and maybe most important lesson, machine maintenance. 6. Machine Maintenance : Welcome back. Now, I want to show you how to change the needles or possibly install them for the first time. Surgeries utilize two needles. You want to change them every couple of projects or if a needle breaks, you just need the tool to loosen the screw to remove them and replace them. I'm using my universal needles. I'll put the model on the screen recommended by my manual. I just use my finger, but there are needle holders that you can also use the whole the needles in place. Righty, tighty, lefty, loosey. And try to be careful not to drop them in your machine. I like to remove the presser foot to give myself some more working room and then toss the old needles and replace them with brand new ones. You want to be careful that you're paying attention, that you're putting the needle in the right way. There is a rounded side and a flat side. The flat side, as you can see, goes away from you. So I like to look at the eye of the needle to make sure I'm putting it in the right direction. And then you want to go one at a time using your fingers to hold them in place, the left needle will be slightly higher than the right. And I just want to hold them vaguely in the right place and then Use the Allen wrench to tighten them. When you tighten the needles, they will walk in into their correct position. So don't worry too much about getting them exactly in the right place. Once they're secure, give them a little tug to make sure they're not going to come out and you're good to go. Now for changing the blades, as you can see, you just need a basic screwdriver to loosen the upper and lower blade. The main feature is making sure that you keep the alignment correct when re-install the blades, you can see there's about a millimeter of distance between the lower blade and the stitch plate and you want to make sure that stays consistent. Here are some replacement blades I purchased online. You just want to make sure you don't lose the original washers that came with the machine. I've only had to replace my blades twice in the last six years. So it's not a common problem, but I wouldn't be mindful of sowing over pins because that can make your blade stall quickly. Alright, let's talk about the most important thing, machine maintenance. Just sewing a single project can make my machine dirty enough to warrant cleaning. You'll want to remove all the threads first, just like before cutting them. And then changing the tension to zero and slowly and carefully removing any excess threads from the machine. They can get a little tangled. So tweezers might be helpful. There we go. You'll want to unplug your machine so you don't cause any accidents while you're on the inside and start to remove pieces like the needles and the presser foot. To remove the presser foot raised the lever and you just want to press that back switch on the back of the presser foot, which we'll drop it down and you can store it away for safekeeping. For safety reasons, you want to disengage the knife. And now let's first clean the tension does get five to ten pieces of thread or a paper towel and swipe it in-between the desk. For me, I always get a lot of cat here. I do this around monthly so the disk don't get blocked by PFAS inland. Looking inside of the machine, I want to remove the stitch fingers so I lower the upper looper to its lowest position, raise the presser foot, and then press that lever there. And it will just pop out and store with the sich finger removed. We can now remove the stitch plate with the screwdriver. There's only one screw on my machine and it's pretty easy to remove. Just don't lose it. Moving the stitch plate can be a little tricky because it gets cotton everything, but just try to move it towards the side and it should be good. Here's what the stitch plate looks like on my machine. Refer to your manual. I'm going to show you how I clean and oil my machine next. So you'll need the dusk brush and starting from the top, I just want to brush down all of the big pieces of fuzz. I'm going to finish this off with the vacuum, but for now, I'm just trying to get most of the dust and all the nooks and crannies into a large pile at the bottom of the machine to just suck it away. While it might be easier, I don't recommend Ken error because that can push the dirt and dust back into the mechanisms of the machine where you can't reach it. Now I'm going to take the vacuum and just suck away all of that extra dust. This is an attachment that goes to my regular vacuum and it's pretty easy to use. It's nice I can get it all the way back into the all the notes and crannies. This type of cleaning needs to happen after every major project because the nature of the searcher creates so much Lynn and all of that cleaning though, removes the oil which the moving parts need to work properly. So that's why we are no oil are machines just as regularly. You can get machine oil easily and just want to put it in the moving parts. Based on your manual, you can see the three areas that I like to select and just put a drop or two on those areas for the piston you want to oil both above and below because you want it to work into the mechanisms so it gets fully incorporated. After you're done with the oil, you want to use the hand wheel and move it towards you to really get that oil inside of the machine. For me, my machine stopped making a weird clunking noise after I started regularly oiling it. Now return everything to the way you found it starting with the stitch plate. Turn the screw and tighten it. In next step, return the stitch finger to its position. Make sure you lower the upper looper two lowest position before you try to return the stitch finger, press that lever and it should go right back into place. Return the presser foot. Remember to hold that little latch on the back and it will snap into place. Now you want to return the needles one at a time, being careful not to drop them into the machine. In with that. That's everything you need to know to keep your machine working for many years to come. 7. Class Project : For your project, I don't want to overwhelm you with something complicated that requires a plan or supplies. I simply want you to spend some time getting to know your machine. All I want from you is a sample swatch to show any of the stitches you are able to accomplish. Just the basic chain stitch is perfect if that's what your machine is capable of, extra points if you try all different types of stitches I've shown or show a different comparison of tension settings from beginning, the end, showing how you dial in your machine for specific type of fabric. That is also something that you need to practice and practice, practice to get right. Remember to download and print out or use digitally the stitch diary so you can document all the settings and notes you need for your machine. I created this PDF, so it's really easy to use and to keep close at hand so you can keep using it in the future. For me, it can be challenging to talk myself into using my machine and changing the settings for fear, I'll mess it up somehow. Nested Shari helps cushion the anxiety I feel when I have to change the settings on my machine, it makes it a lot easier to have everything I need at a glance. So make sure you fill it out correctly for your machine so you can always call back to it when you need it. Please remember to post your projects in the project gallery section. It's a great place to ask any questions or show any finished projects you were able to accomplish after taking this class. Thanks for making it to the end. 8. Thank You: Congratulations, you've finally made it to the end of the class. You are now a surge or master. In this class, you've learned all the parts and components of a surgery, how to thread the machine. The basic operations of the machine, and including specialty stitches. Remember, you can always refer back to this class when you need to clean your machine or when you're trying to stitch, you haven't tried in awhile, like the flat lock or rolled hem stitch. So keep your manual handy and remember that you are going to have to learn the same things over and over again before you're comfortable with it. And that's okay. I know getting comfy with a new machine can take time. If you have any questions at all, make sure you ask them in the discussion section of this class. I'll be there to answer anything you need if you liked this class and want to see more related content for me, hit the Follow button up next to my name and you'll be notified of any future classes. Please feel free to leave me a review and let me know if you enjoyed this class or what I can improve this type of feedback helps me create better classes in the future. I would love to see your example swatches or respond to any questions you might have. So please upload your swatches to the project gallery. Alright, thank you so much for taking this class. I'll see you in the next one.