Poinsettia Card Class

1. Poinsettia Card Class Introduction: Hello, Welcome to the point set a card class. This is the set I'm going to be using in this class. And that I do my cards with, you definitely can be using other stamps as well. You just want to make sure that they are line-drawing stamps. So you have something to do with the text techniques within, to do the watercolor, to do the beating with the alcohol inks. If you use silhouette stamps, obviously you can't paint within them once we've done embossing. And these will be listed in the supply list. There is a supply list included in this class that will include all of this applies to use is divided into each and every card. So you'll know exactly what supplies are used for which cards. And they also have links to where you can find the products. Some of them you may already have at home. Some of them you may be able to find at your local scrapbook store. But some people don't have local struck with Scott bookstore. So this just makes it a little bit easier for you to source. If you don't have these available locally, you may be able to substitute different products within the class for others. For instance, I like to use Ranger alcohol inks. I know there's many other alcohol inks on the market. You probably can use other ones. I haven't. So I don't know, but I would suggest maybe trying them and just seeing if what you have works for their techniques that we are doing. If nothing else, you're gonna learn a little bit more about the products you have and how they can be used. We're also going to be doing some water coloring. I like to use distress reenters for my water coloring. I find I have a good control over the vibrancy, as well as the fact that I have a lot of distress pads and I have there be increased for them. So it's a product that I already have them I like to use for more than one purpose. If you have watercolor pencils or watercolor crayons or a different type of watercolor. Try it. It'll probably work for what we're doing. You don't need to do them all exactly the same. Also going to be showing distress, how to create a distressed background. Now these are using different distress pads and once again, they're created. This technique is created around them. You may have other diverse pads that may work similarly, I don't know. I haven't tried it to a different pad at different companies pad in order to do the technique, but try it, see what happens. Again. You might just learn something about the products that you have. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me and ask them throughout the class. I'm happy to help. Otherwise, let's get started and create some cards. 2. Heat Guns we will be using in this class: All right, so before we get into actual card making, Let's talk about heat guns. And there's two different ones that I'm going to be using in this class. They can kind of be interchanged, but you just need to be careful about some things. So one of the ones that I'm going to be using as the heat AT tool. And this one has a bit of a gentler heat. I like it for doing distress backgrounds. I like it for drying glues, that sort of thing. Because it's just a little bit more gentle. It's not as hot, and therefore it doesn't warp the paper quite as much. You can emboss with this one, but it just takes a little bit more time because of the fact that it is a gentler heat. So I'm going to be using it mostly on doing backgrounds and stuff like that just to dry things. The other one that I'm going to be using is this one here is just a cylinder heat gun. It's got more direct heat, an end to it. So you can see how this one is quite big. This one is quite narrow and it is more direct. So this one is a hotter heat gun. I'm going to be using it when I'm embossing my stamped images. You can use this to do like to dry backgrounds and stuff like that. I would not use it for drawing glues because it just makes it is so hot that it just makes them boil and bubble. And it definitely affects the results of them. But you can use it for doing backgrounds. You just have to be a little bit farther away so that it's not quite as hot. And then a little bit of blowing on the top and on the bottom. You just have to be more careful with this one when you're drawing, when I'm drawing the background and stuff like that. But that's why I tend to use this one because I don't have to be quite as careful with it. The other thing, when I'm doing the embossing and I'm going to say this now because while I'm bossing wall this tool is on is going to be quite a bit of noise. So I'm not going to be doing any talking over top of that. You want to be holding your heat guns steady and moving it around slowly. The tendency people, and especially when they're using this style is because it looks like a hair brush, they tend to start doing this and all that does is spread the heat around and it takes a lot longer to emboss. So when you're in Boston, even if you decide to a boss with this heat gun, you want to be holding it. You want to be watching what you're doing and you want to be moving it around slowly. And you'll notice when you stamp your image and then put your powder on, it's got a matte, dull finish. When your embossing, it's going to go bright and shiny. So you're watching for that wall, your embossing and you're moving your heat gun slowly while you're doing that, you don't want to be holding it too close to the paper. You want it a little bit of ways for the paper because you can burn your paper, especially when you're using the hot one. And if you heat one area too much with the paper, not only can you burn the paper, but they embossing powder will just kind of melt rate into the paper and you won't have a nice raised embossed look to it. So some people, it takes a little bit of practice. So I wouldn't necessarily start with your finished project or whatever what you're wanting to do. I would practice a few times if you're new to embossing, just to kinda get the hang of it before you start working on your cards. So two different heat guns, you don't necessarily need both. But like I said, if you're using this one to dry things, you need to be a lot more careful because it's hot. The other thing, and learn by me. Do not touch this or decide to hold your heat gun in between your knees when you've just finished embossing? I did that as a teenager and I still remember to this day, I'm constantly tell people, this gets very, very, very, very, very hot. So there's a reason this has a stand to it. When you're putting it down, you want to make sure it's on the stand. You don't want to put it against anything, especially anything classic because it will melt. This one here doesn't get quite as hot, so you don't have to worry quite as much about that, but especially with this one, you want to be careful about that. So we'll see you in the next video where we're going to start card making. 3. Watercolour Poinsettia: Emboss Images: All right, so the first card that we're going to be doing is this one here and we're going to be water coloring it. But the very first step is to stamp and Emboss our images. So I've already got my point. Set a stamp on my acrylic block. I'm going to use a verse of Mark ink to stamp and emboss it. Now this is a nice ink because it stays wet for awhile. So the embossing powder is not going to move while I'm waiting to emboss it. So I'm going to stand my image, make sure to press it nice firmly so that I get everything stamped for my embossing powder down and I can be liberal with it because whatever comes off of the piece of paper I am going to be putting right back into the container. So you can see I work on a scrap piece of paper in order to be able to easily put it right into the container. So now I'm going to emboss my image. And you see how it changed there from being mat and Dalton shining. So as that's doing that, I'm moving my heat gun around. So then before I do my next image, I want to take a look and make sure everything is a bright shiny silver are used to Ross encounter. So we're making sure that as all embossed, if you see anything that is doll and Matt is not quite a boss like that, right there is pretty well, but I'm going to just touch it with that. You've got to go. There we go. And now I can go and stamp my next image. Now, once you've got a lot of experience with this, you could stamp all of your images at once and emboss it all at once. But especially when you're new, you might as well hold off and stamp each image individually so that you know exactly where each image is. And you don't have to worry about getting your hands in the embossing powder wall. It's not emboss because if I were to go rub against this right now, it would just rub the powder off. Okay. So the other thing about heat guns that I forgot to say in the heat gun section is even though the heat tool that I'm going to be using for my background in my next card. Even though that one looks like a hairdryer, they don't blow air, they emit heat. So that's a big difference. We're not blowing the powder around. The heat gun emits heat, which is what melts it. And if we were to use a blow dryer, you would not be able to emboss an image because a, the heat isn't enough, as well as the fact that you would just be blowing air onto it, drying the ink, and then blowing the powder off. Now because I'm making this particular card here, I've already got it done, so I don't really have to think about my placement too much. If you decide you're using different images than the ones that I am using for this, you may want to adjust where your images are going, where you're stamped image of that point. So next I'm gonna do my little commuting here. And this is all part of the same set that I'm using. And notice I have lines on my block. You can buy acrylic blocks that have grids on them. And it really helps you with placement because you can take your image, you can line it up, especially if it's a greeting. You can line it up with the lines on the blocks and then, you know, you have a straight. Now you see how this rate here. I must have had a finger on my card stock. They're all I'm gonna do is take a really soft brush. I'm going to dust that powder off just to get that. And you have to do that before you emboss it. Once it's in Boston, gets there to stave. But just a soft brush that has a fine point that you can get detailed into. And what I meant, but by the last thing is if I used a really big brush there, I wouldn't be able to get right into the nooks and crannies there. So you want to be able to make sure that you can be precise with what you're brushing off there. All right. So I've got everything embossed. I'll see you in the next video when we will start to paint. 4. Watercolour Poinsettia: Watercolouring our Images: All right, so now we're going to paint our point set is, and what I am using to paint is a water brush that has a reservoir in the handle to put the water in. So the nice thing about that is I don't need to have a jar with water sitting on my desk and possibly something that I could knock over it because I'm a little bit of a class and I definitely would knock it over. So what I'm gonna do first is I'm going to paint my background. I'm depicting in dipping it into my paint palette here. This is filled with distress inquiry incurs. I have lots of distress pads, so I have the reintroduced to fill those pads. So the other thing that is nice about using a pen or a water brush that has water rate and the handle is I can add a little bit of water to dilute my color. And I love using these distress. We incurs for water coloring simply because I can lighten the color, but it is quite bright to start out with. So I have a lot of range in what colors I'm using here. Just quickly, the background here. And any time I want a little bit of a darker color, I go into that original one on the side there. Now this is just to get some color on the background just because I didn't want it to be completely white. And by embossing the image first, I have little ridges where the stamped image is. So I don't need to really worry about going into that. Even if I did go a little bit into where the stamped image is, my blue that I'm going to be painting for the point SETA is darker than this color here that I'm putting on the background. I don't really need to worry too much about it. A little bit in there. That was a point settled leaf. So I will be fixing that when I go to do my point set has. Now before I start painting, my point says I'm going to want to make sure that this background is dry simply because if I were to start painting, the point set is, while this background is still wet, if I haven't to go over my little ridge line there, I would have blue seeping into my background. All right, so there we go. I'm going to leave this to dry and I'll see you color the points that is in just a moment is in the same video, but I'll see you. All right. So my background is dry and it really doesn't take very long. So the first color I'm going to paint for the base of my point set, and I'm only going to show you one. The other two are exactly the same. I'll show you the full one here. So I've got my weathered wood in my distress we incur. And I always have this palette here with my distress for incurs. They never dry on this palette, so it's great. I can go in and start water coloring anytime I want. The only thing because they don't ever dry is I have to store it horizontally so you don't want to tip it on its side. You're just going to have paint that's running into each other if you do that. So I'm starting in the center and I'm moving my paper around. And that's because I want the darkest of the colors in the center. And we're going to elaborate on that a little bit. So it's not going to be just this one color. I'm going to add other colors to it to give it a little bit more depth. But I want to add a little bit of a base layer, as well as the fact that by putting this base layer, layer, this whole point set it is damped. So the color next color I'm going to use, gonna move a little bit better. So next, I'm going to use chips. And these are the only three colors that I'm actually using on this particular card. So I've got an old paper for my background. I've got weathered wood and ship sapphire. So I went in there with my darkest color and I don't want to have that much of that on my brush. So I have a little napkin here and you could use a little paper towel, whatever you want. I'm just going to take a little bit of that off of my brush and then go back in. And I'm spreading that around and it's really easy to do because of that petal is wet. So it's very easy to go in and just spread that color around. So I'm doing exactly the same thing for all the petals working my way from the outside in. So I went in with the chip Sapphire and now I'm going to spread it out because this second one here, the color wasn't quite as dark. I didn't have to take it off of my Bresson brushes much. Sometimes you will, sometimes you want it. So sometimes depends on the size of the area that you're working on as well. And some of these points settled leaves kinda go into each other. So sometimes it's a little bit hard to tell exactly where one leaf starts and ends. So I wouldn't worry too much about it by the time that you're done. It's definitely going to look like a point cetera. So you don't need to be sweating whether you colored something exactly right or not. By the time that we're done, it's going to look like a points at anytime you feel like you've got a little bit too much color to happen on your paper towel here. If you find your brushes too dry, go back to the paper towel and squeeze your brush and you'll get a little bit of extra water onto your brush. The nice thing with having a brush that has water rate in the handle is also, when I need to change a color, I don't need to dip it in paper or in water. I simply go and I squeeze my brush and I've got a clean brush short-lived. So now I'm going to go into my center here. And a lot of these center points setup petals kinda run into each other. So I'm not going to worry too much about the details there. I just want to make sure to get that when I have one of these bigger petals because you're definitely going to see the shading and stuff like that on the bigger ones here. All right, so now you know what to do just to paint the point ceta. I'm gonna do the same thing on these other 2.5 setups. And I'll see you in the next video for assembling our card. 5. Watercolour Poinsettia: Assembling Card: All right, For the very last step for this card is to assemble it. So the first thing I'm going to do, because I'm just thinking around the edge of the card. I chose old paper which is the same color that we water colored the background with. I just wanted it to have a little bit of a darker color around the edges and this was the easiest way to do it. You can do as much or as little. You could choose a darker brown if you wanted it to have a little bit more shading. Well, I just wanted it to be fairly subtle. And this was the petal that I accidentally colored with the background color and you actually can't see it at all. So if you do make a mistake like that, just know it can be easily fixed. So that is done. I'm going to score my card base and then folded and I like to score it and folder in my score palette here. And then I've already got my piece of paper cut. I knew exactly what size I wanted it to be from the beginning because I'd already made a sample card. If you wanted, you could put, make your piece of paper a little bit bigger. And then to size at the end, if you wanted to have a little bit more flexibility over what size it ended up being. Just happen to know. And I just glued it together with some distress collage medium. Sometimes I use that and sometimes I use my tumble multi. And the nice thing about the distress collage middle medium is if you happen to have some blue that seeps out, it dries completely mapped so you don't actually see it. So there is our card completely finished. We'll see you on the next card. 6. Vellum Poinsettia: Creating the Distress background: All right, So this is the next card that we are going to be doing. So the very first step for this card is we're going to be doing this distressed background. So I have a piece of paper here. This is a mixed media piece of paper. It needs to be you need to use some card stock that can handle some water. So you don't want to use regular card stock, mixed media works. You could use watercolor card stock. That's a little bit thicker, but that's meant to have a little bit of water put on it. So I have got distress ink pads here and I've got them in both oxide and their regular I'm mixing the two. I've got chip Sapphire in both kinds and whether it would involve times. So these are the same colors that I used for the last card to do the watercolor painting. I'm trying to make the parts kinda coordinate with each other just because they're all part of the same class. So I'm pressing a little bit of each one down on my map on the side here. And I'm going to miss them with water. The very first step, I'm going to put my card stock in this ink and then lift it up. If there's any sections that don't have ink on them, I'm just going to press them down. Now this is one of those techniques that you have a certain amount of control, but there's some things you just can't control. Now I'm using this heat tool to dry the ink. It needs to be about 80, 90 percent dry, not a 100 percent dry, but mostly on second we've got again. So you can even just here. This one is lot gentler than the other one. The other one is quite loud. This one I can actually talk over top of the card stock even though it's meant for moisture, it does curl. But as it dries, you'll notice that flattens right back out again. So the reason I said it doesn't need to be a 100 percent dry. But like 80, 90 percent is you don't want to take a piece of wet card stock and start dabbing it into your ink. You want to make sure it's mostly dry. These two colors, if we mix them together, they're not going to create my because obviously they're both flus. But if you're say doing a background with like red and green are opposite colors on the color wheel, you're going to end up with mud if you mix wet with wet. So I'm just tapping them into those dots. And then I'm going to try it again. And you keep repeating this process as much or as little as you want to. You have a background that you like. Now you may notice that my piece of paper here is slightly bigger than the one on the card. And the reason for that is then when I'm done, I can pick out exactly what part I like best and just shave a quarter inch off of two sides. Like for instance, this side, this corner here because there's no ink. Maybe there's ink on it by the end and I love it, but I can cut some of it off. And obviously this technique, you can do it with any color. I use them what just stress clouds because that is what these are for. Either ink pads may not react to the same way this technique was created with these pads. So it works well together and it's a perfect way to get just a Blache mixed media background without needing a lot of tools or without having to say stamp an image or texture or whatnot. Getting close to how I want it to be finished. But before I do anything to this, the background, if this card I need to make sure it's absolutely a 100 percent dry. A little bit more dots and you'll see how the ink just gets, gets less and less on my mat and it gets, the dots get a little bit more tiny. That's exactly what we're looking for. So now I think I'm going to put it this way on the card and put the point set in this area just because it's one of the darker areas. So I think I'm going to cut this corner off and then cut the top one off. But I'm going to let this completely dry first, and I'll see you in the next video. The next video we're going to be embossing and cutting out the point. Set a 7. Vellum Poinsettia: Embossing & Cutting Poinsettia: All right, so now we're going to stamp and emboss the point set a. So I'm going to do this one with white embossing powder and I'm doing it on vellum. You could do it on white card stock if you want it. I just wanted it to have a little bit of a song. Oops. Ignore that. We're going to work on the opposite side from where that was now. So we're going to stamp it, make sure to press nice and firmly. And when you're pressing for me, especially want to do the center of this down. That's often where you have trouble. It's really easy to get the impression from the side of the stamp. But we want to make sure we get the center detail of the points that I'm going to pour my powder on. Make sure you get some in that corner there. And you can see right away if there's anything missing, you can make sure to get that. So I'm going to use my heat gun for a Boston. So and just like the first video with the silver powder, you can see exactly where it's embossed and where it's not embossed. So you wanna make sure to move the heat gun around slowly while you're embossing. All right, so it's all completely done. And I'm actually going to do that a second time because of this card has this centerpiece that's just kinda little bit smaller than the entire point. Set it just to give it a little bit of dimension. So I'm gonna do that off camera and then I'll come back. So that is done. Here. You can see I've got some white from where I dropped to the stamp is stuck to the ink. But they didn't bother taking my brush and brushing it off because I knew I only wanted this center part. So that part didn't bother me. It's going to be cut off anyways. So you need to use a pair of scissors, nice and sharp, and preferably a smaller pair of scissors. If you have a pair of scissors that has a really long cutting blade to it, you're just going to have a little bit harder time getting in some of the detailed areas. So I cut maybe Laika 1600 or so away from the stamp. If you want, you can cut it right next to the embossing powder. I don't I don't mind having that little bit of extra. I think if it was just regular card stock, I would cut it closer and be a little bit more precise with it. But because the background or the card is a little bit more loose looking, a little bit more mixed media looking. I I don't mind if it's not precise. Then if you have extras while you're cutting it, just take it off, but get it up. If you're away. You'll find some stamps so you can get dyes that match then that will make this process a little bit easier. But in general, points that is fairly easy to cut out. And obviously it doesn't have to, you don't have to do this technique was at this exact points that a stamp anyone will work and really any other image will work as well. You can use it with whatever stamp you want. And if I wanted, I could take my second layer and I could just cut exactly the same point set out and then just offset it. So it was a little bit fuller, but it was a full size of the point set a, it's really your choice how you do with it. So that one is done. I'm going to turn this video off now. I'm going to cut the other one and I'm going to cut it smaller. So I'm just leaving all of the outside points out of flowers out. And then I will see you in the next video where we will emboss some of the images from the stamps onto that background. 8. Vellum Poinsettia: Emboss background: All right. So apparently I didn't start I didn't press record for the last one. So on my background know that it's completely dry. All I'm going to do is stamp my little swirl. This comes in the same set as the point cetera. I'm going to stamp it with versa mark, and I'm going to emboss it with white powder. Now, you'll see there's a big mess of embossing powder splatters here. This is where I am putting my point, cetera. So I'm actually not worried about it. You're not going to see any of that. If there was an area that you're going to see it, that you're quite concerned about it. Take your little brush, same as last card and brush off where the excess powder is. And that way you're not going to have a mess. But like I said, my point said is going right here, you're not going to see any of that. The other thing, there's several different other Sam's within this set. You could stamp and Emboss those instead of the whole swirl. I wanted my focus to still be on the points that are, so I don't want anything to take the attention away from that. But you could also take your one of your other stamps and use, see the weathered wood oxide and just stamp a little bit of the pattern in it. It's very, very subtle. It's not in your face, It's just adds a little bit of extra texture to it. Just a way to add a little bit more texture to your cart. And if your background ended up being a little bit lighter than mine, you'd end up seeing a little bit more of that. Just another option for if you'd like. 9. Vellum Poinsettia: Assembling card: All right, now that everything is try LET is let's put it together. So we're going to hold our card-based in 1.5th. Almost. Got a good nice crease in there. I've already cut this down to fit on the front of a card with an eighth of an inch. Reveal our round it. Now. I'm going to take my glue on the back. And this glue has a little bit of working time as well. So you need, or you don't need to put it perfectly in place to start, you can move it around. There we go. And now I'm going to put my point, set it down. So you need to use an adhesive that you're not gonna see through. The velum developed that I happen to be using here is a little bit thicker, so it has a little bit of forgiveness to it. So I'm putting that one right in the center. Then. I put the adhesive behind to or there's a lot of embossing powder or embossing anyways. So it also is a little bit forgiving. And then I want to add just a little bit liquid pearls, Nouveau drops. I can't remember what they're named for it in the center. Just to give it a little bit of dimension to the center of the flower. Otherwise, it's really hard to just do see the center. And then to tie that in, I'm going to add a few drops in this top corner. And I typically do odd numbers when I'm doing this. Everything looks nicer and odd numbers. So the card is done. I am going to leave it alone and let the nouveau drops completely dry before I move it. That is what it looks like there. We'll see you on the next video for the next card. 10. Alcohol Ink Poinsettia: AI Background: All right, So for our final card, we're going to be doing a little bit of work with alcohol inks. So I have my piece of paper here. We're going to do the background first before we do anything else. So what I'm using is alcohol ink card stock. It is a clay coded card stock. You need to work with this surface. Often people use you bow with alcohol ink so well as well. And that will not work for this because once we're done our background, we're going to be embossing the point settle on here. And you cannot emboss on UPA paper because the heat gun will work the plastic. So for the distress background, I worked directly on this map that comes with my mat or with my glass mount here. But you can't put alcohol inks on them because they will stain. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to work on just a little piece of acetate so you can see the colors on my palette here. If I did it on black, you won't be able to see anything. So just adding the two colors there are stone washed and denim. Again, you can do whatever colors you're wanting. I'm trying to keep the blues kind of in the same color family. And so I'm going to spray some isopropyl alcohol on them so that I can get the colors to move. Tried to spread it all over the back, make sure it has some good contact. And then I'm going to lift it up. And then I'm just going to let it dry. And that's exactly what I did here. It's one of those techniques that you're going to get, what you're gonna get, you're not going to be able to duplicate something exactly. So there is going to be imperfections and V are variations with it. And I'm totally okay with that. I like when there's little surprises in it. Do is while the alcohol is still wet, you can move it around a little bit, but I'm going to leave that until it's dry. Our next step is to emboss the point set on it, but we can't do any of that and to help us is completely dry. So to work with this, again, with a different color, you're just going to spray it with some alcohol and then just use a paper towel and wipe it off and on a wave completely clean. And then you can use it over and over again with different colors. Will see you in the next video to emboss the points at a. 11. Alcohol Ink Poinsettia: Embossing Poinsettia: Alright, so my alcohol ink background is completely dry it and we can stamp and emboss the points that are on the front. So you can see I did the exact same technique for the background for both of these cards. This one's completely different than that one and that is totally fine. Alcohol inks or medium that are gonna do what they're gonna do. 12 or not. You have so much control over it. So you need to be okay with the fact that sometimes it's going to be a little bit different than the last time you did it. And if you need to, you can always do a second background and then choose the one that you like the most. But because the background is just the background for me, I'm totally fine with whoever it turns out. So I stamped or inked and stamped my stamp. I'm going to put the embossing powder on top. And again, you can be liberal with the powder. Whatever comes onto the paper is going to go right back into the container. So we're not missing for not wasting anything. Set that aside. Then we are going to emphasize our image. And there we go. So you see how it changed while I was embossing. Now, like I said, for the background, I'm using alcohol ink card stock, which is a K8 clay coded card stock is specifically made for alcohol inks. Some people like to use photo paper to do their alcohol inks on, and sometimes it works, sometimes that's all. It really depends on the brand. And I can't say I've tried any to know exactly which brands work and which ones don't. The one thing to note though, you may or may not be able to emboss on it. And I know I did try on one a while ago. And when I went to try emboss on it, the paper bubbled up. It was whatever was coating the surface. The heat gun didn't like it so it bubbled up. So before you're working on your final project, if you're using photo paper, maybe test it, just see if it actually does work with bossing or not. And again, maybe try a few different kinds if that's what you want to try. If you're having a hard time getting alcohol, ink, card, stock, maybe try a few different kinds to see what you have that will work. I'll see you in the next video where we're going to start to paint the point set a 12. Alcohol Ink Poinsettia: Painting Poinsettia: Alright, so we're going to start to paint the point set, and we actually are painting with alcohol inks. So I have crimson here and I have cranberry. I am using a paint palette here. You can use these for distressing, like I used in the watercolor and video. You can also use them for alcohol aches. And I typically have different ones for different mediums. So I'm not using my distressing one for working with alcoholics. I'm just going to paint each of the petals of the point, set a carefully trying not to get it on. The gold embossing powder and alcohol ink works on any non porous surface. So if I get it on the embossing powder, it's going to color the embossing powder, which is something you can't totally avoid. But by avoiding the embossing powder a little bit, you'll get less on there and you can take, I've got isopropyl alcohol in here. You can take some isopropyl alcohol to clean it off a little bit. But you're not going to be able to get into a 100 percent clean. And then anytime you put your brush within that alcohol ink, I'm going to turn it your red color. So it's a completely different from water coloring with water color. Inks with diabetes stinks. And to be honest, water coloring our coloring with painting with alcoholics is not my favorite technique. I typically will use alcohol links with more mixed media Mark background techniques. But one of the things with classes is you learn some of the things you love and you'll learn some of the things you don't necessarily. So I always think it's important to try different techniques and learn what it is that you love doing and what it is that or not is not really your cup of tea. So just like I did with the distress ink, water coloring background, I do all over the entire surface of the petal. Then I do my darker color. In any places that I have ink that I want it to be a little bit lighter. I'm just going to take some isopropyl alcohol and I'm just going to clear it off a little bit. So that petal is done. And the inks blend with each other completely different than distressing x2. So you can't even really compare how the inks work to each other. They're completely different things. We're gonna take a little bit of the darker color and put it in here. I don't spend a lot of time fussing around with it. When your inks dry on the palate and they will, because they are alcohol-based, they will start to evaporate and they will dry really quite quickly. Just take a little bit of isopropyl alcohol in one of the wells there and add it to the ink and that will rehydrate it. Or you can get some more ink from your bottle, but you really don't need to just getting some isopropyl alcohol and rehydrating it really is just enough. As the inks dry, you'll find that it doesn't move and blend a little bit as well. So you don't need to keep fiddling with it till it's perfect. They will start to dry and they will blend while they're driving. And that's just what alcoholics do. And that I mean, watercolors do that as well. And these tiny petals, I'm just going to completely color them with the dark color and the alcohol ink. I found it. Or what I can do is just take my brush, put it in some of the isopropyl alcohol, takes some of the excess off. And you can lighten the color a little bit. You're never gonna get it back white, back to the same color as the card stock was before we put alcohol inks on it. Even though there's a shiny surface to it, alcohol inks will soak into the porous paper underneath. So like I said, alcohol in card stock is a glossy card stock, but it is porous. And the clay coded card, card stock and it is porous so the ink does soak into it. So you'll notice it's soaked around while we're painting. Sorry said that wrong. It soaked into the back of the card stock when we're creating our background, not what we were painting. And add a little bit here because not getting much of that array red color. Here we go. And you definitely have to do this technique petal. By petal. You don't go and do the entire thing and then go out the darker parts of the petal because this ain't just dries far too quickly. And if you waited for if you did the entire thing and then went in with the dark alcohol ink, it would blend even more differently than it is now. If I want it to be really dark in an area, I can just tap my brush like this. And that's going to leave the ink in that area little bit darker than the rest of the pebble. And like I said before, I'm trying not to paint over the embossing powder. Some of it is going to seep up into there any ways and that's fine. I'm not really too worried about it. You're still going to see a little bit the gold. There's not really a way to avoid it. The only thing you possibly could do, and I didn't do it for this class, was to use them like a stamp positioner. And then when you're completely done painting, you could always go back and stamp it in exactly the same position and then emboss it again. But this is all part of the look for me, so I've left it exactly as it is. And if some of the embossing gets covered up, that's totally fine. Last petal here. And you'll notice that I did a little bit of gold around the edges of the embossing or around the edges of our rectangle piece here. And the reason for that is to tie in some of the gold in the embossing here. We're going to do that in the next video. It's a way to frame it without having to get another piece of card stock for a mat. And it's also going to bring out the gold embossing that we still have there. So it is completely painted. I'm just going to let it dry before we start doing the background part. And we will see you in the next video for that. Back again before we go to the next video, in order to clean your brush, put some isopropyl alcohol, alcohol onto some paper towel, and rub your brush against it and just keep doing that until you don't have any color coming off of your brush. You could leave it on your brush if you wanted to just use that brush for alcohol ink. But it would be a shame to use that alcohol or that brush into a different color that you don't want read in because the alcohol will always rehydrate it. So you want to keep cleaning your brush onto some paper towel until there's no color that way, you know, next time you go into it, you have a clean brush to work with. We'll see you in the next video. 13. Alcohol Ink Poinsettia: Emboss edges & Assemble: All, so now we're going to add the goal to the edges. And you can see that I have it a little bit chunkier in some areas it's not completely even and smooth. And I did that on purpose because this entire thing is not perfect, even smooth, even the background has a little bit of imperfections to it. And to keep along with that theme. That's what I did with the gold around the edges. If you're doing a card and you wanted it to be completely perfect, as perfect as possible. You would take your embossing pad and run it along the edges. And that's going to make it a little bit more even. But to do it the way that I did for this card, cross this way and then cross this way. And what I'm gonna do is have a bunch of embossing powder there. I'm going to tap the card in there and then tap the excess off, and then I'm going to emboss it. And this piece here, I've got a little bit more than I even got in my sample. And I knew that when I put the powder on that it was going to be a little bit thicker there and I was totally fine with it. So I left it. If you don't like that, take a soft brush, brush some of the excess off, and then you can control it a little bit that way. And what do they exactly the same for all four sides. You can't do all four sides all at one time. You want to do one side at a time. And the reason you don't want to do all four sides at once is because if I have dry powder or powder that's not embossed and I'm touching it, it's just going to fall right off the cart. So you definitely have to do each side separately. You'll have a little bit more control that way as well. There we go. So now let's glue that to the back of our card. I'm just going make this to the side. I already have my card base folded. Ready to go. Decide how you want it on your card base and it's opening this way. So thing it this way. Put your adhesive on the back and then glue your layers together center while you're putting it down. That's the nice thing about using some liquid glue is you have a little bit of leeway to shimmy it while your gluing it down. And there we go. Our last card is done. And see how I mean, imperfections all over the outside, but see how it just brings out the gold in the card. I love how it does that. And typically I would wait for this to dry before doing the next step, but I'm just gonna do it anyways. So I have my Nouveau drops. I'm just going to add a little bit in the center of the flower here. And it's just going to give it a little bit of texture. There we go. And then typically, when I've got that done, I will walk out of her room because that's usually the first place I will lay something so I want to make sure that I'm not there. Well, it dries. But there we have our third and final card. 14. Poinsettia Card Class Thank You: Thank you so much again for joining me for this class. If you enjoyed what you learned and found it very helpful and very valuable, please take a moment to leave some feedback. It helps me to know how the classes are running. And it also helps others to know whether they're valuable to them. Once again, I use that point, set it up for all of the cards in the class, creating holiday cards. But you absolutely can use other line-based stamps as well. You just might want to adjust your colors for whatever image it is that you are using. Again, if you have any questions or something wasn't clear, please let me know. And if there's enough people that have the same questions, I will adjust the content in the class just to make it a little bit more clear. Have a great day. Thanks so much for joining me.