Transcripts
1. Introduction: Knitters are baddies. My first design was to design my own custom fit backwards halter top and that
was empowering. I felt powerful. I felt like I was able to do
anything I put my mind to, and if I can't find
something, I'll make it. Hi. I am Brandi Cheyenne Harper. I am a knitwear
designer and a teacher. I design knitting
patterns and books that help knitters make
their own clothes, help people make
their own clothes. I've always had to find a way to find clothes
that made me feel sexy, that made me feel cool. Knitting really changed
my relationship with my body when I realized that I can make adjustments to an
existing pattern, when I realized I can design my own garments from scratch. Today we're learning how to understand a knitting
pattern and how to go about modifying the knitting
pattern to get the fit and shape right
for our own body. We're going to review a basic sweater pattern and I'll tell you what sections
go into a pattern. Then we'll talk
about how to take our own measurements based on the adjustments we want
to make to our pattern. How to adjust your
sleeve measurement, how to adjust your
waist measurement. I hope you walk away today
with a better understanding of your own body, your
own measurements. You can do anything, you can make anything
you put your mind to. I am so excited to teach this
topic. Let's get started.
2. Getting Started: We're learning how to
modify an existing pattern. Go ahead and download the
class resource down below, we're going to be
modifying the gauge screw, which is just really
beautiful, very simple, beginner-friendly
sweater that is knit from the top down and I'm going to go through how
to go about modifying this very simple sweater in
a number of different ways. What you need to modify your pattern is a
calculator because knitting is all math so you can use this or your
phone, a tape measure. I'm going to run through some quick measurements
that are important for modifying a pattern
like this and how to go about taking your
own measurements if that's something
you need to do, a pencil, a piece of paper, or a notebook, just
some spare paper. We're really going
analog today with pattern modifications
and something straight to check your gauge. It's best to use a
straight edge where you're checking your gauge because you really
don't want it to move even a slightest
quarter of an inch. You want to get the most
accurate measurement of your fabric's gauge, its tension as you can, and you're definitely
going to want to use a straight edge. I love my brass needle gauge
from Pro Soho. I love it. This is my second one. It
looks nice and new. That's it. Definitely, they
grabbed some yarn to play with because I
definitely want to show you how to check your gauge and the recommended needle size that you can find
on your yarn label. I love the sweater. It's very simple. There are a bunch of
different variations you can make to the sweater. You can make the sleeves longer. You can make a
three-quarter sleeve. You can make a long sleeve. You can make a really
long sleeve and cuff it to give a cuff sweater. I love a crop sweater, it's very much in style, very trendy right now. This is a crop lace, but you can make a
modification to make this a classic length
that hits your waist. You can make it even
a little longer. Have a hip at your hips, and you may even go a little further to
make a sweater dress. You're going to learn
what you need to be able to make those adjustments. One thing to know
is that this is an intermediate to
an experience class in a very basic way, designing knitwear, making
pattern modifications. It's not a small feat, but it's doable
and you can do it. It might get rough, you might feel confused, especially if math is
not your strong suit. Math or science was
not my strong suit, but I find that math
is integral and music and knitting
and everything, and cooking and
everything that we do so if you feel a little like I'm not sure
about this it's okay. [LAUGHTER] Let it
breeze over your head, move on to the next lesson, and maybe revisit it
when you're rested or you've given it some thought and you feel prepared
to come back again. Now that we have
everything that we need, we have all of our
tools and materials, let's go ahead and learn how
to read a knitting pattern
3. Reading a Knitting Pattern: Let's review the basics of
reading a knitting pattern. I want you to think about a
knitting pattern as a recipe, your favorite lasagna recipe. Every single chef, like a network designer
has their own format, they have their own photographs, they have their own layout, they have their own style. This pattern is unique to
my own personal style. You'll find that how I
lay out my patterns, how I abbreviate
techniques and talk about knitting is different from my fellow network designers
all around the world. Know that this is
not the standard. This is one way and
to give you an idea of how a pattern is structured and how to best follow
a pattern to get the finished garment as
instructed in the recipe. The first things first. Most patterns, we'll
start with the size. It'll tell you how
many sizes there are. For this pattern, there
are eight sizes to fit 24 to a 60-inch chest. I recommend 2-4 inches
of positive ease. What that means is when you
have a finished pattern, it'll say, this is how big
the finished measurement is. I recommend that you have at least 2-4 inches
of wiggle room. Positive ease is how much looser the fabric is
to your measurement. Let's say I am a 38-inch chest. I made a sample that was
42 inches around my chest. That's a four-inch
difference between my measurement and
the sweater size. That gives me about four
inches of positive ease. What this means is
that it's not skin tight and it's not an
over-sized baggy sweater. It just gives me a
little bit of room to move and feel comfortable. All patterns will tell you what the recommended ease
is for the pattern. Let's say you are
a 50-inch chest. You measure your chest
and you're 50 inches. You're going to want
to do maybe size 54 based on my recommendation. Next step is materials. In my materials section, I like to break it
up into sections, the yarn I'm using, and then also the
needles and tools. I say needles and tools. In knitting it's called notions. Tools are called notions, but I know I like
knittings and tools. That's something
very unique to me. But in the yarn section, I tell you how many
yards you need. I gave you both in yards and
also in the metric system. What weight I need. You need a super bulky
weight yarn for the sweater. I say you need this many
yards in super bulky weight. Also the yarn I'm using personally for my own
sample so that you can get it and know
what you're looking for in the ballpark
of what you need. I'm using Purl Soho Woolly
Wool for my sample. They only took three
balls of yarn. That was really, really great. That's the yarn and that's pretty much how it was
going to be laid out. I like to lay out my patterns with the first four sizes in parentheses and the last
four sizes in parentheses. If you're following, let's say, you're following size 50, which is the first measurement
in the second bracket, you're just going to keep on following that number
throughout the patterns. If you're following Size 5, you're always going to look
at the first number within the second set of parentheses. The same thing corresponds to the meters on the metric
system variation. If I was following Size 5, I would need about 376
yards or 344 meters. Something to keep in mind in terms of your materials
list when it comes to the yarn is that patterns will say you need a super
bulky weight yarn. If you're ever confused
as to what that means, there are an incredible amount
of resources out there. I'll link one below in
the class resources, which is the craft yarn
council yarn standards. There are different
weights of yarn. They're really, really
thin layers weights, and then they're really
big chunky weight yarns. So every category
has its own name, has its own tension and fabric of recommended
needle size. If you're ever confused
about what it means by chunky or worsted or fingering, definitely reference craft
yarn council standards if you need more explanation. When it comes to your
needles and tools, it'll have all the list of
the materials that you need. I recommend a number
of needles here. There are four
different needle sizes. Shorter ones to start with the smaller necks
and the sleeves. Those 16-inch circular needles. There's also 40-inch
circular needles. Now, you may say, look, I don't have 40-inch circulars, but I have 36-inch circulars, I have 24-inch circulars. I'm going to see if
I can make that work before I spend another
$20 on a pair of needles, then make it work. This is just a guide for what you can use to
make this garment. It's not absolutely necessary. Use what you have budget and then if it doesn't work out,
then you can invest. Don't let the supply
list limit you. The next section is gauge. Gauge is the most important
part of knitting, period. What gauge is is your numbers. It's understanding what your
fabric is saying to you. It's saying, I am really tight, I am really loose. You need to know this about
me so that you can make educated decisions about what
changes you can make to me. [LAUGHTER] You have to do it. You have to listen. A lot of people skip this part, but I have to tell you it is the most important
part of your pattern. It'll tell you how many stitches you're getting
within four inches. This is a standard. This is telling me I'm getting eight stitches
within four inches. If I were to have, let's say, twice as many stitches
within four stitches, like let's say I had 16
stitches within four inches, that means I have more
stitches with an inch. It means that my
fabric is tighter. The less stitches I
have within an inch, within four inches,
within 10 inches, it means that my fabric
is looser and it informs the decisions
that you're going to make throughout this
entire process. It's very, very important. This is telling me my gauges measured over stuck
in that stitch. Stuck in that stitch is a very basic
stitch and knitting, and it's just the knit
one probe one stitch. Stuck in that stitch is
literally the most basic, commonly used stitch
in the world. You want to check
your gauge over the stitch that's
being referred to in the pattern because your
stitch affects your tension. Cables tend to really draw in the fabric and it
makes a tighter gauge. I'm checking this
panel over stuck in that stitch in the
round end block. This is the gauge in the round, meaning you've knitted
maybe a small hat or maybe something small in the round to be able
to check your gauge. Because when we're
knitting the round, we knit tighter than when
we're knitting flat. That's why you want to
check your gauge in the pattern that you're using, either in the round or flat, depending on what the
pattern is saying to do. We're knitting in the round. You want to make
sure you're checking gauge when it's blocked. All that information is
literally given in two lines. You literally make or
break your project. Don't skip it. It's the
most important thing. There is also a little note. You'll often see
this in patterns. We'll say something
like use US 15s or use this needle size or the size
needed to obtain the gauge. Now, this can be a
little confusing because the supply list is totally
the news that you needed. Then in gauge just saying, well, you might actually need a
whole another set of needles. This is actually customary
across patterns. This is a standardized
way of writing any patterns where
the assumption is that you've checked
your gauge and then you've purchased
in your supplies. It's very interesting. It can be very confusing, but keep that in mind that
when you pick your yarn, you may swatch it on a US 15 and find that it's too loose. You're just getting like
six stitches to the inch, not eight. It's just
so much looser. You have to go down
a needle size, maybe the US 13 to be able to get two
stitches to an inch. That's pretty much
the materials page. That gives you some of
the basic information. There's also generally a section on notes on construction. They'll tell you how a
sweater is constructed. This sweater is in the
round from the top-down and the waist circumference is a little slightly smaller than
the chest circumference. The sleeves are worked then
around in circular needles. You use magic loop if necessary. Now, depending on your pattern, I'll give you more
or less information. It's basically just to give
you a basic understanding of what's going to be happening
before you get started. I also have a schematic with all the important measurements
that you'll need. These measurements are
really great when you're modifying patterns because you may see that the sleeve is 1.5 already and so you want to
maybe lengthen your sleeve. You'll say, I need to make this 10 inches longer to
make it 11.5, 25 inches. We're going to reference
these numbers in a bit when we start
making modifications. Then this part in sections. I like to break my
patterns up in sections. I do a lot of italicizing and styling to bring your
attention to certain areas. We have the knit hem is
where we're going to begin. Then there's a join hem round. There's a whole section dedicated
to the regular shaping, which is that really
beautiful yolk shaping on the sweater. There's a section
about separating the sleeves from the body, shaping the waist, the bind off. Basically, it tells you
everything you need to know, the sleeves and the finishing. Now, something I will say
that's very unique to my pattern is that I do something called
in-text abbreviation. That means there isn't a separate section
for abbreviations. The first time I use it, I'll write it out and
then I'll abbreviate it. For an example, I'll say
something like, let's look here. Like I said, join a new ball
of yarn with the right side. I say, the
abbreviation from then on now is going to be RS. If I ever use this term again, I'm going to abbreviate
it right-side. That's something to keep
in mind with my patterns. Some patterns have separate
abbreviation lists, and I do in texts abbreviations. Once you have your pattern, I highly recommend reading
it from beginning to end. Next, we're going to talk
about yarn substitution. If you don't want
to use the yarn, I recommend in the pattern. How do you choose your yarn? We're going to talk
about that next.
4. Choosing the Right Yarn: Let's talk about
yarn substitution. Now, this is a
pattern modification. If you're following a
pattern and the pattern recommends Purl Soho Wooly Wool, that's the yarn I use. You say Brandy, I like
Purl Soho Wooly but I have some other
yarn I want to use. That's a pattern modification. Choosing a different yarn will change the finished
look of your sweater, sometimes changing the yarn
will affect your drip. It will affect the fit, it will affect the look, the colors you have access to, the way it feels on your body. It is a modification from
the original patterns. That's where we're
going to start. One thing to know about
pattern modification is that you can make it
a very simple one. If the pattern is recommending
Purl Soho Wooly Wool, you can just find a yarn that's similar to Purl Soho Wooly Wool. Now, Purl Soho Wooly Wool is
a super bulky weight yarn, it has a certain gauge. Now, I'm looking
for a yarn that's similar to Purl Soho Wooly Wool. I'm looking for something
that will give me about two to two-and-a-half
stitches to an inch. Now, Purl Soho also has another chunky yarn very
similar called Gentle Giant, I'm going to look at my
label and I'm going to say, is this something I can use for the gayest crew as a
pattern modification? The first thing
you're going to do, is you're going to look
at your yarn label. This is assuming you're in a store or maybe you're shopping your stash and you're
wondering if you can use yarn you
already have or a yarn, you want to purchase new, you're going to read your yarn label. I know my pattern
is saying I need about two stitches to an inch or eight
stitches to four inches. When I look at my yarn label
for this different yarn is called Purl Soho Gentle
Giant is 100% Merino wool. This yarn label is saying, I'll be able to get 6-8
stitches over four inches. That means that I can get something that's
pretty loose but eight stitches is exactly
what I'm hoping to get. Now. I might have to bring this down a
needle size because look, it's recommending I use a 17 or 19 needle to get eight
stitches to four inches. I might have to use
a size 17 instead of 15 to get this gauge or I might need to go
down, I don't know. All I know, eight
stitches to four inches tells me I can use this
yarn as a substitution. Now I also have
some other yarns. These are all very
similar in weight. They're from
different companies. I did the same thing. I read the yarn
label and they're all telling me that I can get eight stitches to four
inches using these yarns, I might just have to use
a different needle size. That's something to keep
in mind when you're doing yarn substitutions is that you might be able
to get the gauge, but you might have used
a different needle size. That's something
to keep in mind. One question I'm often asked is can I use a
different yarn weight? Now, this is where things
can get a little tricky. You can totally use a
different yarn weight. You can say Brandy, bulky yarns aren't my thing, I want to use a smaller yarn. Now by smaller, I mean, this is what is considered an errand or a worsted weight yarn, this is considered a decay
to a sport weight yarn. These are going to
get me more like 13 to 14 to 16 stitches, 16 stitches within four inches. That's half the size of what
the pattern recommends. If you want to use
a much smaller yarn than what your
pattern recommends, then it's not a
pattern modification, it is a new design. That's just something
to keep in mind, is not an easy fix. It's not, I'm going to use a smaller yarn and so I'll
just make a bigger size. Sometimes it's not that easy. It's doable, it's possible, but this class
doesn't cover how to use a different yarn
weight altogether, but rather how to choose a different yarn within
the same family of yarns. Definitely try it,
definitely experiment with it but know that is
not a pattern modification, you're designing a
new sweater when you change your yarn weight. Other designers might
differ from me, but that is my experience
being a designer. I'm using a smaller yarn, the numbers are
completely different, the shape is
completely different, I'm making a lot of different design decisions
than I would using bulky yarn. If you have more questions
about how to pick your yarn, how to find your own
substitutions that work for you, for the pattern that
you're following, I'll link a few options
in the class resources. There is Ravelry, which is very popular social
platform for knitters. You can find yarn
substitutions on Ravelry. There is a yarnsub.com, where you can type in a yarn and it'll give you some alternatives
that you can use. If that's you and you
want more help and feel free to drop any questions
in the discussion below. let me know what you think. Next, we're going to make
and check our gauge swatch.
5. Making a Gauge Swatch: Welcome to the gauge lesson. Gauge is so important, and it's probably
one of the most critical aspects
to designing that where gauge is how you measure the tightness or
looseness of your fabric. It's the first step in
designing a pattern, there's really no
getting around it. If you want to modify a pattern, you definitely want to have an accurate and
proper gauge swatch. Gauge is different
for every knitter, and it changes depending on how loose unit,
how tight unit. It's unique to
every single person who picks up a needle
in a ball of yarn. You can get five
stitches to an end, or you could get 10
stitches to an end, sometimes using the
same needle and the same yarn if you have
two different knitters. It's a recipe. You give two people
the same recipe, you get two completely
different dishes. Think about gauge
as something that really changes on your mood, the needles you use, the yarn you use. It's important when you're
making changes to a pattern, to swatch the yarn, the needle, and to also use the stitch pattern you're going to be using for
your final piece. We're modifying the guess crew, which is knit in the round
using stockinette stitch. I want to show you how to go about checking your
gauge if you're working in the round
because that can really affect the tension
of your fabric. Most of us will knit a little tighter when we
knit in the round, and so we want to
account for that. This is a stockinette stitch
swatch that's knit flat, and this is a sweater
that's knit in the round. The difference between my
gauge when I'm knitting flat in stockinette stitch versus when I'm
knitting in the round, can make the difference between
a sweater that fits you perfectly or a sweater
that is way too tight, because in the round you knit
all of your stitches and many of us tend to knit a lot tighter than we
do when we pearl. Stockinette stitch
when you knit it flat, It's knit one row,
column and row. Many of us tend to be a
little looser in that area, is why you want to
swatch in the round. Because this is a class about
really being accurately, when you're checking your gauge, I'm going to show you how to
knit in the round to check your swatch on a
small little sample. I'm going to use a
circular needle to do this because we don't
need a huge swatch; we don't need a
sweater size swatch. We're trying to
figure how to create just a small swatch in the
round to check our gauge. We want to make sure that it's at least eight inches around because gauge is generally
checked over four inches. First, I'm going to pick
my circular needle. Magic loop is a technique that allows you to work
in the round on a very small number of stitches without needing double
pointed needles, and you can use any number
of switches that you want. Be careful, little
clumsy at first, but you will get used to it. I have a few needle sizes here. I have a US 15, 16 and circular, I have a US 24 and circular, and I have a US 15,
40 and circular. You can use whatever
needle size that you have in stock in your own
stash in terms of length. I'm using the US 15 because that's what my yarn recommends, and that's the needle I
want to use for my sweater. But, I'm going to use my 24
and circular since this is probably one of the most
commonly used knitting needles. When you're working
with bulky yarn and if you have to purchase
these needles specifically, it's worth it because
you'll use them a lot. I'm going to start
with just casting on my stitches like
I normally would. I love the long tail cast on, so I'm going to use that
method and give myself enough tail just to
quickly cast on. You can use whatever
method works for you. If this is a swatch, you may want to use the needle size your
pattern recommends. For this pattern,
I recommend using a US 11 to work your hem. You might want to
start with the US 11, and swatch your hem and then
move into using your US 15, your larger needle sizes to create the stockinette
stitch and create a really proper swatch using all the techniques that
are in your pattern. I'm going to cast on
22. [NOISE] [LAUGHTER] I don't have too much tail, but that's okay. Here we go. I have my 22 stitches casted on, and in order to
work in the round, I have to join the first stitch
I casted on which is over here with the last I try to
casted on which is over here. Now, you're like, "Well, how am I going to do that when the stitch is so far
from this stitch?" This is where magic
loop comes in. What I'm going to do
is I'm going to take half of my stitches, 11. I'm going to create
a little loop. This is where the
magic comes in, [LAUGHTER] this is where
the loop comes in. I'm going to push
those 11 stitches up onto my other needle. You're going to see
this widen here, it's completely okay, don't let it bother you. It's really going to bounce
back once you get started. I'm just going to
push these stitches. Now, I will say I tend to
cast on tight so you can see me pushing them up
a little bit with a lot of tension and it's
because I cast on tight. It won't always be
the case for you, especially if you're using
a different cast on you cast on looser. Here we go. What you want is to have
some breathing where you want to be able to maneuver
these stitches together. You can see how I just pushed
half of my stitches here, and then the rest
of my stitches are just loosely distributed on this right hand needle and then making sure that my
stitches are not twisted. They don't look twisted. I'm going to join my round. Here's my first
stitch I casted on, here's my last
stitch I casted on so I can now join the round. I'm going to join that round here first by knitting a stitch, you could place a
marker if you like. Sometimes I'll just use
my tail as my marker. When I see my tail, I'm like, "I've passed around." I'm just going to knit those 11 stitches onto
my right hand needle, and then continue to redistribute
them when I need to. You can see this is a technique
that I don't often use, I prefer using what is called
double pointed needles. These are double
pointed needles. These also allow you
to work in the round. This is my preference. Each time I have
to push this up, and remember my
cast on is tight, it's not going to
always be this tight. After I push this up, and the double pointed needles
I could just keep going, I don't have to keep on
maneuvering my needle so much. The double pointed
needle allow me to seamlessly work in the round, and I'm actually
going to transfer over to my double pointed
needle because I want to talk to you about
understanding your fabric, and why that's so
important while I get a little basic swatch coming to show you what it's
supposed to look like. But, that's basically
how magic loop works. Now, you can see I'm already
working in the round. You're going to have
a little space or close up every time. You don't worry
too much about it. Sometimes, what I'll do is
I'll try and change it where my magic loop is coming from so that It doesn't put
too much strain on one area, like you see there's a
little bit of strain here. But, I'm going to go back around one more time so I can fix that. I have 22 stitches, and I'm going to evenly divide
them onto three needles. I have about seven
stitches per needle. [NOISE] When you're
making your swatch, you can use magic
loop or you can use double pointed needles
to check in the round, and use whatever method is
most accessible to you. [NOISE] Then we have our
last bit of stitches here. The effort that goes into creating a swatch
is so worth it, and I'm going to tell
you why in a minute. We're going to have
a little [NOISE] conversation you and me [LAUGHTER] about why
it's so important, and the lessons we
can learn from it. I'm just going to
keep on knitting. I'm going to keep
on knitting till I have a nice little
bit I can measure. Ideally, your swatch is going
to be 4 by 4 inches wide. Because this is the round, when I lay it flat, ideally I have at least
four inches on the front to measure and four
inches on the back. I can have a really
proper fabric. I can measure around and
get an accurate description of what my gauge is doing, what my tension is doing. Here we go. We have dug. Again, I would knit at least to get myself
to four inches. But, I want to show you
what it's going to look like when you have your own
gauge swatch in the round. It's going to look
something like this. You're going to see, and
I'm going to show you, this is what my
fabric looks like when I'm knitting in the
round after it's been washed. This is it in the
round and washed. This is in the round
before it's been washed. You can see this fabric
is a little tighter, definitely tighter; it's going to open up
a lot when I wash it. It could be that I'm
knitting tighter simply because today I'm
knitting tighter. When we're under stress or we're anxious
or we're excited, it will change the
tension of our fabric. You also have to know these things can affect
your swatch too. Mine is looking a little more
tight than I anticipated, but I know it's going to
open a lot when I wash it.
6. Measuring Gauge: Let's just quickly go over
how to measure gauge. Let's get our gauge
swatch numbers. Then we'll move
into understanding our bodies' numbers and
we'll combine them. I'm going to put
this to the side. Basically, when I'm
finished with this swatch, I'm going to want to wash it, I'm going to want to
lay it flat to dry. I want to see how
it's going to open up because it's going to grow
at least an inch or two, and then I'm going to
measure this gauge swatch. Because I already have a
finished sweater that's knit in the round in the needle
size I plan to use, we can check gauge here for
the purposes of this lesson. Well, let's check
gauge three ways, over four inches, over two inches, over one inch. You want to try your best to get literally to the half stitch, to understand what
your gauge is going. Because I have such can make the difference between a sweater that's three inches big
or three inches small, and it can really make a
difference. Here we go. I'm going to take my stitch
gauge and I'm going to check my roll gauge so you can
see what that looks like. In order to check your gauge, you want to identify your first stitch that
you want to measure. Every stitch is like a little
v. It looks just like this. It's like a little v, and here's another one, here's another one,
here's another one. I'm going to try it as
much as possible line my inch marker right along
the outside of that stitch, and I'm going to count how many stitches I'm getting
within these four inches. Now, I love this needle gauge
from Pro-Soho because it has already created this beautiful [LAUGHTER]
indentation for me to measure. It makes measuring
gauge a lot easier, and I'm going to go ahead
and count those stitches. I have 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, that's wonderful eight
stitches to four inches. Let's count over an inch. That's one, that's two. I have two stitches to an inch. Let's count over two inches, 1, 2, 3, 4, I have four
stitches to the end. The reason why you want to do it that way is because sometimes, when you measure
over just one inch, sometimes you're missing
just like a eighth of a stitch that can add
up over many stitches. You check to see if you're getting the same gauge over one, over two, over two inches, to make sure that
it's consistent. I know here that is
pretty consistent, and I'm getting two
stitches to an inch, or eight stitches
to four inches. For the purpose of this class, I'm going to talk about
gauge pretty much either in four-inch increments as
a customary is spoken about in the industry
or to the inch. Now I find that it's much easier for me to speak about gauge so the inch I'll say it's two stitches to an end or
three stitches to an end. To check my row gauge, each v counts as a row. Here's one row, here's another row,
another row, another row. I'm going to try my best to
line up my needle gauge, to line up right
below this row here. Hopefully, it looks like it's
ending right about here. I'm going to count how many rows I have within these four inches. Count each individual v here, 2,3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, wonderful. Same thing applies,
let's see if I'm getting three to an inch,1, 2, 3. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stitches to two
inches wonderful. I'm getting two stitches
and three rows to one inch. That is powerful
information to have, especially if it's accurate because you'll be able to create a design that's spot on fits you the way
you want it to fit. Go ahead and practice
checking your gauge and the round using magic loop
or double-pointed needles. I will see you in
the next lesson where we're going to
learn how to take our own measurements and
understand our bodies numbers.
7. Taking Your Body Measurements: Let's learn how to take our own measurements based on the adjustments we want
to make to our pattern. Now I have a very
basic line drawing here that is showing what modifications I want to make to the
[inaudible] screw. The original pattern
is short sleeve. It has a cropped waist. I love that about it. It's very cute, very sexy. But I want something
that is a little longer. I want long sleeves, I want a longer waist. I also want it to
be a little bigger, maybe like 8 inches of ease. I want to have that
oversize look. There are a few key measurements that I want to understand about my own body in order to make the changes I want to make. There are hundreds of
measurements in our body. There's a whole system
of measurements that you can use when you're designing clothes
and designing knitwear. Because we're using
an existing pattern, we don't really have to know everything or every measurement because the pattern
already accounts for some of the measurements
we already have. For example, the neck line, how many stitches I cast on
for my neck is something that you don't want to play around with
too much because if you make your neck
line too small, it won't fit over your head. If you make it too big, you might see your bra straps or it might hang
over your shoulders. That's not really look, that's not really a style, that's not really a measurement we want to play around with. But in order to understand
that measurement, I need to know my back neck. But that's something that
the designer consider. I'm not even going to worry
about that measurement. But some of the changes
that I do want to make, I want to make my
sleeve a little bigger. I want to make my waist longer. I want to make my
sleeves longer. I also wanted to make the
sweater bigger overall. In order to check
these measurements to understand what my body is doing so I can make
those adjustments, I'm going to measure my arm, my chest measurement, and I also want know my
waist measurement. I'm just going to quickly
take those measurements. The best way to take your
own measurements is to ideally have someone else
do it for you if you can. It can take some flexibility to take your own measurements, or you can measure an existing
sweater that you love. You don't necessarily have
to measure your own body. You could say, I want to create something
that's similar to my favorite sweatshirt and you can plug those
measurements in. But make sure that you're
wearing something that is fitted, something really thin, or you're doing it maybe with your favorite bra that gives you the most lift and fit or take your measurements
in your birthday suit. Do it when you're
naked. Because if you're measuring over a sweater, over a jacket,
you're not getting accurate measurements
for your body. In order to measure
your upper arm, you're going to go
ahead and just wrap that tape measure around the
biggest part of your arm, not too tight, not too loose. You want to have a nice
little clothes fit. Then write down
that measurement. In order to measure your chest, you're going to put on your favorite bra or
go ahead and measure your bare tests at the largest point right
below your underarm. It's going to be the
largest point of your upper body and you're going to take that measurement. My measurement is about 38
inches around for my chest. Next, I'm going to
measure my waist. When you're measuring
your waist, it's going to be
right just above your pubic bone and you're
going to measure from your upper arm to just above your pubic bone and that's
going to be your waist length. My waist length is 13 inches. Then I'm going to
measure my waist width. That's going to be around the same area where
my waist ends. I'm going to measure
totally around my waist and my waist
width is 36 inches. I want to make an
adjustment to my sleeve. In order to measure
of your sleeve, you're going to think about where you want
your sleeve to end. I like long sleeves. You might want your to sleeve
to end right at your wrist. You might want a really
long sleeve that you can cuff. It's up to you. But when you're measuring
your actual arm, you want to understand
where you want to sleep to end and then hold your tape measure
and measure right below your armpit to see
how long your arm is. My arm is about 18 inches long. When you're measuring
your upper arm, your upper arm is the largest
point of your upper arm. I'm going to go ahead
and measure that. Mine is about 13 inches. Now that I have some of
these key measurements, I know what my body
measurement is. I know what I want my
sweater measurements to be. We're in a really good place to move on to combining
our gauge numbers with our body numbers
to understand what numbers we need
and our actual pattern. Now I want you to
go ahead and think about the changes you want
to make to your sweater. Make some notes, maybe
get some numbers down. If you know you want
just leave to be 23 inches long because
you want to make a cuff, write that number down. Then also take your body's
numbers and see what your body measurements
actually are in relationship to the
changes you want to make. Because that information
comes in really handy, both those numbers come
in really handy when we start to make those actual
modifications in our pattern. So go ahead, practice, get your numbers
down and I'll see you in the next class
where we're going to really do the math and combine our gauge numbers
with our body numbers
8. Doing the Math: Now it's time to do the math. We have our gauge numbers. We know that our gauge, for me at least is two stitches and three
rows equals one inch. You want to use inches when you are calculating how many stitches
you need to cast on, how many rows you need to knit. Just keep that in mind, you'll see what I mean in a second. Basically now my body
measurements is information. It's like it's
good to know where your body is doing
so you can make educated decisions about how you're going to make
changes to your pattern, but at this point I know what my sweater
measurements are going to be, what I want them to be how imagine it will
look and work out. I'm just going to make
a list of those here. I know for my chest measurement, I know I want it to
be 46 inches around. I'm going to write that down. I have my waist measurement. I know I want that
to be 44 inches. I have my underarm measurement. I know I want that
to be 17 inches. My sleeve length, I want that to be 18 inches. My waist length, I know I
want that to be 11 inches. I think those are
all my numbers. I have 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. These are the numbers
I need to know to make these modifications,
a longer sleeve, bigger body, bigger sleeves, more ease is what
I'm striving for. You want to use
your stitch gauge to figure out your widths, and you want to
use your row gauge to figure out your lengths. I have my chest width, I'm going to multiply
that by two. My waist width, I'm going to measure
that by two. My upper arm by two. My sleeve length, that's a row measurement. I'm going to multiply
that by three, and I have my waist measurement. I'm going to multiply that by three because that's
all about rows. Now this is my own method. I will say that
makes sense to me. It's very rough, very analog. It makes sense to me. Eventually you'll
find your own process of laying this out. You might want graph paper, you might use a notebook, you might now create a list, you might write your
numbers in here somewhere. This is just one way to do it. Hopefully it makes
a little more sense to you as we work
through this lesson. I'm going to just
use my calculator and make some quick
calculations. I have my 46 *2, so I need 92 stitches
for my chest. I know that but
let's see why not. I need 88 stitches for my waist, 34 stitches for my upper arm, 54 rows for my sleeves, and 33 rows for my waist. That's really, really powerful. I know a lot now. I know that I need at least 92 stitches around my chest for it to fit
the way I want it to fit. Now I want you to combine your gauge numbers with your sweater
modification numbers. I want you to think, do you want your sleeve
to be 20 inches long? Great. What is your row gauge? How many rows are you
getting to an edge? You're going to
combine those numbers. If you're also getting three
rows to an inch like I am, that means you're going to need 60 rows to create the
sleeve length you want. Go ahead and combine
those numbers, meet me in the next lesson where I'll teach you to
understand how to go about modifying your
yoke which affects your sleeve width as
well as your chest width
9. Modifying the Yoke: Next we are going to talk about how to go about
modifying our yoke. Now in the yoke where you can make a lot of
decisions that will affect both your chest with as well as your
upper arm width. If you wanted a
much larger chest, I'm going to want to increase
more stitches in the yoke. If I want bigger sleeves, I'm going to want to increase
more stitches in the yoke. Some things to know
before you make any modifications to your yoke, I recommend trying to keep
some of the design details intact because we're trying to modify an existing pattern, we're not trying to create
a whole new one and the design elements you have in your sweater have been tested, have been tried by the
designer of your pattern. You want to try and honor those design decisions when you're making modifications
to an existing pattern, if that's something that you
want which is what I want. I usually love a design, I just want to make
some little tweaks, but I don't want it to be like a completely different piece. One of the design
elements in my yoke, and you'll find that to be
true in most yoke patterns that designers create
is very unique to them, very unique to the
fit and the look. For me, for this sweater, the force that is between my
increases and my decreases, that's a design element, I wouldn't recommend
changing that. If you change that, it's no longer the gates crew [LAUGHTER] It's another pattern. If you make two stitches between the increases is
not the gates crew, you make it eight
stitches between the increases is not the gates screw. I
hope that makes sense. You want if the gates crew has four stitches
between the increases, so you want to maintain that
as much as possible and actually makes it
easier for you because there's one less than you
don't have to figure out. It took me some time
to figure that out, you don't have to do
that work for yourself. Another design element that
is very common with Roglyn shaped sweaters that are lit from the top
down in this way, for each section of the sweater, two stitches or increased
every other row. What I mean by that is there are four
section in the sweater. There's the back,
there's the front, and there's each sleeve
so that's four sections. There are two stitches
increased in every section so that means eight stitches
are increased every row. That only happens
every other row so I increase eight
stitches two in the back, two in the front,
two in each sleeve. I knit one round
even I do nothing, I just pleasure knit and slip my markers and then I
repeat that increase again, increasing every eight
stitches that row. That's a design element, I don't recommend changing that. If you do have to change it, know that if you increase
every single row, you might get puckering. You might get a sweater
that it gets really big, really quickly it's not
something that you want. If you slow it down a lot, if you end up increasing, let's say every three rows
instead of every other row, what you're going to
find is that you won't have enough stitches for your sleeves and your body and you're going to find
that you need to knit more rows or to get the number
of stitches that you need. What ends up happening
is that you get a much longer yoke instead of the yoke ending
right under my arm, if you decide that you want to increase every third row
instead of every other row, you might have a yoke that
ends here at your elbow. You may want that,
but then again, it's not the gates crew. Remember, when you're
making modifications, try and stay within the confines of the
pattern because that gives you a guide and a lot less work because
the designer has made the decisions that you don't
have to make for yourself. You just have to figure
out how to plug in your own numbers and keep
the pattern the same. Increase my sleeve
by four inches. Like I know that my upper
arm is about 13 inches around and I wanted to
create a sleeve that was at least 70 inches
round because I want make a nice baggy, loose sleeve and you can always
just grab a tape measure and say how is a sleeve going to look
if it was 17 inches, 18 inches, 20 inches, 17 felt good to me. I felt like it wasn't too big, it wasn't too tight and
so that's why I pick 17, which means is like about four inches bigger
than my underarm. Now, how do I make
that modification? This is something
where you're going to want to reference your pattern. You're going to pick a
size and the pattern, and then you're going to try and figure out how to change it up. For me, I knit size 42. I knit the third size. Why did I pick size
42 for myself? Because my chest
measurement is 38 inches and the pattern recommends that I have 2-4
inches of ease so the only size available
to me after that is size 42 because that's +2+2 that's four inches of
positivity is perfect. I flt the perfect
size for myself. This sweater is
saying that, okay, I am going to be making size 42. Now I want to see what the
sleeve measurement for size 42 actually is because that's what I
really want to change. I'm going to say size three,
going to circle that. Look, it's 13, I want it to be 17 am like
great, that's awesome. How do I add four
inches to the sleeve? You're going to want to
do this in the yoke. You're going to want to increase stitches in the sleeve in the yoke so that by the time you're ready to separate
your sleeves from your body, you already have all the
stitches you need in your sleeve to
make it 17 inches. Now, what you can do is just increase how many
more stitches you need. Now, how do you do that? This is where the
math really continue, I truly hope this makes sense to you but let's do another quick
little equation back here. The sleeve and the
pattern is 13 inches around so that is times my gate which is
two stitches to an inch. It's actually 26 stitches
around my upper arm. I want to increase
it by four inches, I want it to be 17 inches
times two equals 34 stitches. I need 34 stitches. I'm going to do some quick math. I'm going to say, okay,
34 takeaway, 26 equals, I need to increase eight stitches more than what the pattern is telling me to do. Remember what I said,
we want to stitches per section so I'm going to
increase here's my sleeve. I want to increase one stitch on each side of my sleeve as
the pattern of instructs but I want to add four more on each side so with
a total of eight. Now where and how to add those? It's easy for you, if you do the following. You don't change the number of stitches within the increases so that you'd have to do that. You don't tate how many
rows you increase, while you increase
every other row. What I would do is
once you follow the pattern as instructed for the pattern
that you've chosen, I'm following size three
for the 42 inch chest. What I'm going to
do is I'm going to follow that
pattern exactly as written and then I'm just
going to continue increasing. When the pattern tells
me to stop increasing, I'm going to keep increasing in my sleeve four more times. One stitch on each
side of the sleeve. Most often that will work
perfectly for my pattern, it works because in my pattern I have you stop increasing
for the sleeves at some point and
so what you can do is like not listened
to me and to say no, I'm going to continue
increasing from my sleeve and I'm going to do it 1, 2, 3, 4 more times and I
hope that make sense. But that's how you would make those decisions and remember, that wouldn't affect at all my bust measurement because all I want to
change is my sleeve width. If I follow my pattern as
instructed and increase as many stitches I need for
my chest, it's perfect. The changes that I'm
making will only affect my sleeve and I have of 17 inch sleeves width
on my upper arm. Now that we have a
better understanding of what our yoke is doing, what changes we want to make, what changes we
don't want to make, and how we can incorporate
those changes in our existing pattern to
get the result we want. We're ready to move
on to another area which is modifying
sleeve length. Go ahead and practice
figuring out what adjustments you want to make an ask yourself based on what
I've shared with you. Can you make those adjustments in your yoke and the
way I've described, and then work that into your
pattern and I'll see you in the next lesson where we'll
talk about modifying a sleeve
10. Modifying the Sleeve: Now we're going to talk
about modifying the sleeve. Let's just take this
section by section. Let's not think about all the modifications
we want at one time. For the purpose of this lesson, I'm going to take it measurement by measurement,
section by section. I want to make my
sleeves longer. There are so many sleeve types. We have cap sleeves,
short sleeves, three-quarter sleeves,
this length sleeve, like ends right here, it's not my personal style. We also have long sleeves, extra long sleeves,
cuff sleeves. There's just so many options. There's puff sleeves,
there's oversized sleeves, there's fittest sleeves,
there's muscle tee sleeves. You can just go wild with this. I want to make a
simple modification. I want to make my sleeve longer. Let's stick with
the same example. Let's assume I'm
following size 42, the third size in the pattern. I see that the sleeve is
actually only 1.25 inches, one and a quarter inches long. I'm like, I already know I want them to be 18 inches long. How do I make that modification? I'm going to just create a
quick little sleeve diagram just so we have a
better understanding of what we're looking at. You can have straight
sleeves, curve sleeves, but I know I want my sleeves to be a little curved in a
little bit, my preference. Something I know is, I want to make my sleeve longer. I want it to be 18 inches long. One of the numbers the
pattern already gives me, because remember, I'm
following size 42, I know that the
underarm is 13 inches, which in the pattern
calculates to 26 stitches, so that's a number
I already have. I'm like, great, that's one last thing
I have to figure out. The next number you have to determine when you're
designing a sleeve and creating a sleeve
modification is how wide you want your
sleeves cuff to be. In the pattern, the pattern is just a straight 13 inches. You may say, actually, I like the idea of just having
really straight sleeves. I just want to keep on
knitting and then just end it. Great, that's beautiful. It's easy modification. But let's say you actually want your sleeve to come in a little bit, which
is my preference. I like when my sleeves
are really gradually will come in just a little
bit and then ends. I know I want my sleeve to be about 10 inches at the cuff. That means I have to
decrease three inches to be able to get from the
upper arm to the cuff. I'm going to do this
little calculation here. I'm starting with 13 inches because that's what the pattern told me is supposed to
be based on my size, and then I'm going to
subtract that by 10 inches, that means I need to decrease three inches to get to
my desired wrist cuff. But that same calculation
is literally basic algebra. I'm going to multiply
two stitches to an inch because
that's my stitch gauge, that tells me I need to
decrease six stitches total. My handwriting is much
prettier than this, but look, this is
what you get today. This is my designer scribble. [LAUGHTER] I need to
decrease six stitches total. The same thing applies when
you're modifying a sleeve. You want to try and decrease no more than two stitches per row, and again, it depends
on the sleeve. If you want to have a
really puffy sleeve that comes down to a
really tight wrist, you might have to decrease more than two stitches in a row. I want a really gradual, calm, classic, [LAUGHTER]
simple sleeve. I want this to be gradual. What I'm going to do
is I know I need to decrease one on each side, so a total of six. Now the question is when, when do I start decreasing? What's the space
between the decreases? That's what we need to figure
out. This is how you do it. I know I want my sleeve
to be 18 inches, so I have to multiply
that by my row gauge, that's three rows to an
inch, that's 54 rows. I already have that number, because I calculated
that already. I have it here. I know I
need 54 rows for my sleeve. I know times two to get
my cast on number or my bind off number as I'm
decreasing six stitches total. The one thing you
start to think about is where these
decreases should land. We know it's just three, so it's not a lot. Where should they go? Should
they go here, here and here? That's something
that honestly comes with some practice to figure out what your
desired length is. But I can tell you that, I know that from my own
body's measurements, my body tells me that I'm
13 inches in my upper arm, so I already have 13
inches to work with. My upper arm pretty much remains 13 inches all the way down
until I get to my elbow. For me I'm like, my
intuition tells me that I'm just going to keep on knitting straight 13
inches as my pattern tells me until I get to
about my elbow, which is where I want
to start decreasing because that's where my
arm starts to get smaller. There's another measurement
I realize I need, I need to figure out
what my measurement is from here to here, or rather from here to here, just below my elbow, because that's where I'm
going to start decreasing. I'm going to grab my tape
measure and I'm going to go ahead and just measure. Right around my elbow. Here's my elbow here. I know my sleeve length was going to be right around here. I'm going to say
about 12 inches. This is my total sleeve length. I'm going to start
increasing after my elbow, and so that's another
number I get to work with. I'm going to multiply
that by my row gauge, and it tells me I
have to decrease these three stitches
over 36 rows, so not 54. Because 54 I'm just
going to work even, I'm going to work
six inches even, I'm not going to
do any decreasing and then after that point, right as I get below my elbow, I'll start decreasing
those stitches. Then it becomes, how often
do I need to decrease? I got to do it a little
bit of math now. I have 36 rows. Well, I definitely need
one row for each increase, so that's 1, 2, 3 rows, so I can account for those. I'm going to subtract
three increase rows, so now only I'm
working with 33 rows. I have 33 ways to work with now, because I know I'm going
to lose three because I'm using those for
something else. Well, then I know the
pattern says that my little trim is
supposed to be like, I don't know, a quarter inch, so I'm going to lose
a quarter-inch. What's a quarter inch
times my row gauge? 3*1.25 tells me
I'm going to need to reserve maybe two rows
at least for my hem, because you want to account for things that are
going to be taken up at other areas because
you can't use those rows because they're
being used someplace else. For the hem, I'm going to
lose two rows for my hem. I'm going to say, okay, I
can't account for those rows, so then I'm going to
subtract that from 33, so I have 31 rows. I have 31 rows to
add these decreases. This is where the
decision-making comes in. These are my three increases, I want to increase even here, so then I could potentially
decrease every tenth row. I can work at increase
work 10 rows, work a decrease work 10
rows plus one, 11 rows. That's something I
can do and that will keep my sleeve the
length I want it to be, the decreases are evenly spaced, I can decrease every
tenth row three times. You might have to try
this out and say, I like the way it looks. That feels good to me.
It's looking good. The shape is good.
Or you might say, actually, I don't like that. Instead, I'm going to
make my last row be my increase row. This is
something you could say. You could say, you
know what, I want my last row and I'm going
to redraw this for you. It's really messy
but this is how it can be sometimes, I promise you. [LAUGHTER] This is how it
looks for a lot of designers. I'm going to put
a decrease here, I'm going to put
a decrease here. I want my last row
to be a decrease, which means I only have
two spaces to work even. I have 31 rows. I can decrease every 15th row
instead of every tenth row. This is how you make these little changes,
these little tweaks. Definitely come back, revisit this lesson
if you need to. What I want you to
do is I want you to think about how you want
to adjust your sleeve. Think about the numbers
that you need to make these adjustments and then decide how you want
to shape that sleeve. Take notes, drop questions
in the discussion below, we can support each
other and I'll see you in the next lesson
where we're going to talk about modifying
the waist width and the waist length.
11. Modifying Waist and Shaping: Now we're going
to look at waist, adjusting the waistlength
and and shaping. This will give us another
opportunity to look at that same formula we used, understanding how to
modify our sleeves. Hopefully I'll give you a
simple way of looking at how to modify your row-related
measurements. Those are your lengths. I'm just going to draw
a little diagram again. Here's my waist. I know that I want my waist
to be 11 inches long. I've already identified that, this is just for our purposes here to make it clear for you. Now, the pattern has already written it out for me to
give you the measurement, it says my size should be. When I look my schematic, what is the length that
is supposed to be, they're saying that
I'm doing size 3. That length is seven and
a quarter of an inch. I'm going to increase
about four inches more on my body length. That means I need to increase
about four inches more, I want it to be four
inches longer because the pattern says it
should be about seven. I want it to be more like 11, so subtract seven,
that's the pattern. I'm just going to get
rid of the quarter, the little quarter of an inch, just for the ease of math. I need to increase
four inches more. I'm going to multiply
that by my row gauge, like we did in sleeve, just figure how to make
that longer and it's a work 12 rows more. The question becomes where to
put that additional length. You could approach that
modification in two ways. You could just work four additional inches right after
you separate the sleeve, just work four
inches and then work the pattern in the
way that is written, which is to decrease every
eighth row two more times. Do it that way. That's the easiest
modification you can make. This is a modification
I recommend, especially if you're
large chested because you want to be sure to
clear your bust, like I'm very chesty. After you separate the underarm, I have to be sure
not to decrease too soon because I want
to clear my bust. That might be a really good way to modify a pattern for you, you just knit four more inches. You'll be sure to
clear your bust or you clear your chest, if that's something that you
want to make sure you do and then this do the shaping as the pattern instruct, simple. You can also make the decision to distribute those
additional roles, in-between they
increases themselves. The pattern says to
increase every eighth row. You can say, instead of
doing every eighth row, I just want to stretch it out. I want to knit more rows
between the increases, so I'm going to divide 12 into two because I
want to divide that, I want to separate those additional inches into
those two separate sections. The pattern says to decrease
three stitches on each side, a total of six stitches. I like that, I
want to keep that. I like the shape, I don't want to change that
aspect of the pattern. I just want to make it longer. The last decrease happens
right before we start the hem. I want to maintain that and I'm going to tell you why
I think you should too. This is one of those
design elements that I recommend
you don't change. My reason is because I want
it to tuck in a little bit. I want to reduce any flare that might happen with the hem. I want it to be really
nice and tucked in, and have a really sexy vibe, which I think happens
with that kind of shape. I don't want to change that. Well then I'm not going to
add any additional rows after the last decrease because the pattern
doesn't do it, and I don't want to do it either and I want to keep the shape. Well then I need to
figure out a way to add these additional rows. Let's say I want to
add more rows here, 1, 2 and three. I'm going to divide
12 into three, that means I'm going to add
four additional rows to each section I can add it to based on what the pattern
is telling me to do. I can add it four
rows right after I separate myself from my body. I can add four rows. Instead of doing it
every eighth row, like the pattern says, I can decrease every 12th row. You see how easy the
math is working. I'm just going to add
more space in between my decreases and that keeps the shape but
makes it longer. I'm going to add
four additional rows between these last
two decreases here. I hope that makes sense. It's the basic understanding of how to go about modifying
your waistline, specifically how
to make it longer. One of the most commonly
asked questions is, can I make it longer? Especially when we're
dealing with crop tops is not a design for everybody. Some people don't
like crop tops, it's not the shape for everyone. If you want to make it longer, this is how you would
go about doing it. I'm really so excited for
you to make these changes to your pattern and I'm
excited to see your work.
12. Final Thoughts: We learned a lot [LAUGHTER]
We reviewed our pattern. We have a better
understanding of what our pattern means
and what it's doing. We checked our gauge specifically
for our own pattern, and in this case it
was understanding how to knit a swatch
in the round. We learnt how to check our [inaudible] through
different ways, how to modify our yolk, our sleeves our waist to make the changes we want
to make to our pattern. I'm so, so excited for you. One thing about
math is that it's integral to everything we do. It's in the universe
that helps us understand our world better,
our lives better. It's a music, it's in
food, it's a knitting. It's an everything that we
do and the one thing to keep in mind is that we don't have
a full understanding of it. At any point in this class
you feel a little confused, that's a natural feeling
because math is confusing. Our mind can always
wrap our mind around it and that's okay. Definitely revisit
these lessons as needed Know that you have the capacity to make the
changes that you want to make, not only your life, but in your work and in
your knitting practice, let go perfection, have fun. If you have any
questions or thoughts, share them in the discussion, we can help each other,
support each other. Knitting really is a
community building exercise so share below, and I'll see you
in the next class.
Brandi Cheyenne Harper
