Perfect Fit Knits: Understanding and Modifying Knitting Patterns | Brandi Cheyenne Harper | Skillshare

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Perfect Fit Knits: Understanding and Modifying Knitting Patterns

teacher avatar Brandi Cheyenne Harper

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      Getting Started


    • 3.

      Reading a Knitting Pattern


    • 4.

      Choosing the Right Yarn


    • 5.

      Making a Gauge Swatch


    • 6.

      Measuring Gauge


    • 7.

      Taking Your Body Measurements


    • 8.

      Doing the Math


    • 9.

      Modifying the Yoke


    • 10.

      Modifying the Sleeve


    • 11.

      Modifying Waist and Shaping


    • 12.

      Final Thoughts


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About This Class

Create high-quality knit clothes that fit your body and unique fashion sense. 

A simple cup of hot tea, a mid-afternoon nap and knitting with a ball of bulky cotton yarn are all ways Brandi Cheyenne Harper brings rest, creativity and joy into her daily life. As a knitting guide and interdisciplinary artist, Brandi first connected with knitting as a way to build her wardrobe but soon discovered it to be a meditative art that served as proof that she could create anything she set her mind to. 

With her years of knitting and pattern making experience, Brandi shares how you can customize an existing pattern to your body size and shape. Designed for those who already have some knitting experience, this class will help you to unlock the ability to make any knitting creation you put your mind to. 

With Brandi as your teacher, you’ll:

  • Learn the basics of how to read a knitting pattern
  • Discover how to choose the yarn for your project by making and gauging your own swatch
  • Take the key body measurements you’ll need to modify your pattern
  • Adjust your chest width, sleeve length and size, and your waist length and shape
  • Make a customized piece while still honoring the original pattern design

Plus, you’ll get access to Brandi’s original cropped sweater knitting pattern, which you can download and adjust based on your individual needs. 

Whether you want to learn more about knitting clothing that is custom to you or how to adjust a pattern based on your style, you’ll leave this class knowing you can turn any pattern into the creation of your dreams.

Having foundational knitting skills will be helpful before starting this class. You’ll need a calculator, tape measure, writing utensil, paper, any straight edge tool to check your gauge and scrap yarn to adjust your pattern with ease. To continue learning about knitting, explore Brandi’s full Knitting Learning Path

Meet Your Teacher

My name is Brandi Cheyenne Harper. I am an interdisciplinary artist and knitting guide living in Brooklyn, NY. My pronouns are she, her, and they. Cancer sun, Pisces rising, Cancer moon. I get crabby without solitude. I’m loyal and love being home. My love language is just let me love on you, cook you nourishing meals you’ll be surprised are vegetarian, and plan a delicious time for us.

Through my work, I promote ease, creativity, and nourishing the simple joys of everyday life. I write books on how to create protective, futurist handmade knits informed by Black, queer, and feminist theory. My hope is to empower you to build the most joyous and restful life of your imagination, using knitting as the gateway for healing and community connection.

See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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1. Introduction: Knitters are baddies. My first design was to design my own custom fit backwards halter top and that was empowering. I felt powerful. I felt like I was able to do anything I put my mind to, and if I can't find something, I'll make it. Hi. I am Brandi Cheyenne Harper. I am a knitwear designer and a teacher. I design knitting patterns and books that help knitters make their own clothes, help people make their own clothes. I've always had to find a way to find clothes that made me feel sexy, that made me feel cool. Knitting really changed my relationship with my body when I realized that I can make adjustments to an existing pattern, when I realized I can design my own garments from scratch. Today we're learning how to understand a knitting pattern and how to go about modifying the knitting pattern to get the fit and shape right for our own body. We're going to review a basic sweater pattern and I'll tell you what sections go into a pattern. Then we'll talk about how to take our own measurements based on the adjustments we want to make to our pattern. How to adjust your sleeve measurement, how to adjust your waist measurement. I hope you walk away today with a better understanding of your own body, your own measurements. You can do anything, you can make anything you put your mind to. I am so excited to teach this topic. Let's get started. 2. Getting Started: We're learning how to modify an existing pattern. Go ahead and download the class resource down below, we're going to be modifying the gauge screw, which is just really beautiful, very simple, beginner-friendly sweater that is knit from the top down and I'm going to go through how to go about modifying this very simple sweater in a number of different ways. What you need to modify your pattern is a calculator because knitting is all math so you can use this or your phone, a tape measure. I'm going to run through some quick measurements that are important for modifying a pattern like this and how to go about taking your own measurements if that's something you need to do, a pencil, a piece of paper, or a notebook, just some spare paper. We're really going analog today with pattern modifications and something straight to check your gauge. It's best to use a straight edge where you're checking your gauge because you really don't want it to move even a slightest quarter of an inch. You want to get the most accurate measurement of your fabric's gauge, its tension as you can, and you're definitely going to want to use a straight edge. I love my brass needle gauge from Pro Soho. I love it. This is my second one. It looks nice and new. That's it. Definitely, they grabbed some yarn to play with because I definitely want to show you how to check your gauge and the recommended needle size that you can find on your yarn label. I love the sweater. It's very simple. There are a bunch of different variations you can make to the sweater. You can make the sleeves longer. You can make a three-quarter sleeve. You can make a long sleeve. You can make a really long sleeve and cuff it to give a cuff sweater. I love a crop sweater, it's very much in style, very trendy right now. This is a crop lace, but you can make a modification to make this a classic length that hits your waist. You can make it even a little longer. Have a hip at your hips, and you may even go a little further to make a sweater dress. You're going to learn what you need to be able to make those adjustments. One thing to know is that this is an intermediate to an experience class in a very basic way, designing knitwear, making pattern modifications. It's not a small feat, but it's doable and you can do it. It might get rough, you might feel confused, especially if math is not your strong suit. Math or science was not my strong suit, but I find that math is integral and music and knitting and everything, and cooking and everything that we do so if you feel a little like I'm not sure about this it's okay. [LAUGHTER] Let it breeze over your head, move on to the next lesson, and maybe revisit it when you're rested or you've given it some thought and you feel prepared to come back again. Now that we have everything that we need, we have all of our tools and materials, let's go ahead and learn how to read a knitting pattern 3. Reading a Knitting Pattern: Let's review the basics of reading a knitting pattern. I want you to think about a knitting pattern as a recipe, your favorite lasagna recipe. Every single chef, like a network designer has their own format, they have their own photographs, they have their own layout, they have their own style. This pattern is unique to my own personal style. You'll find that how I lay out my patterns, how I abbreviate techniques and talk about knitting is different from my fellow network designers all around the world. Know that this is not the standard. This is one way and to give you an idea of how a pattern is structured and how to best follow a pattern to get the finished garment as instructed in the recipe. The first things first. Most patterns, we'll start with the size. It'll tell you how many sizes there are. For this pattern, there are eight sizes to fit 24 to a 60-inch chest. I recommend 2-4 inches of positive ease. What that means is when you have a finished pattern, it'll say, this is how big the finished measurement is. I recommend that you have at least 2-4 inches of wiggle room. Positive ease is how much looser the fabric is to your measurement. Let's say I am a 38-inch chest. I made a sample that was 42 inches around my chest. That's a four-inch difference between my measurement and the sweater size. That gives me about four inches of positive ease. What this means is that it's not skin tight and it's not an over-sized baggy sweater. It just gives me a little bit of room to move and feel comfortable. All patterns will tell you what the recommended ease is for the pattern. Let's say you are a 50-inch chest. You measure your chest and you're 50 inches. You're going to want to do maybe size 54 based on my recommendation. Next step is materials. In my materials section, I like to break it up into sections, the yarn I'm using, and then also the needles and tools. I say needles and tools. In knitting it's called notions. Tools are called notions, but I know I like knittings and tools. That's something very unique to me. But in the yarn section, I tell you how many yards you need. I gave you both in yards and also in the metric system. What weight I need. You need a super bulky weight yarn for the sweater. I say you need this many yards in super bulky weight. Also the yarn I'm using personally for my own sample so that you can get it and know what you're looking for in the ballpark of what you need. I'm using Purl Soho Woolly Wool for my sample. They only took three balls of yarn. That was really, really great. That's the yarn and that's pretty much how it was going to be laid out. I like to lay out my patterns with the first four sizes in parentheses and the last four sizes in parentheses. If you're following, let's say, you're following size 50, which is the first measurement in the second bracket, you're just going to keep on following that number throughout the patterns. If you're following Size 5, you're always going to look at the first number within the second set of parentheses. The same thing corresponds to the meters on the metric system variation. If I was following Size 5, I would need about 376 yards or 344 meters. Something to keep in mind in terms of your materials list when it comes to the yarn is that patterns will say you need a super bulky weight yarn. If you're ever confused as to what that means, there are an incredible amount of resources out there. I'll link one below in the class resources, which is the craft yarn council yarn standards. There are different weights of yarn. They're really, really thin layers weights, and then they're really big chunky weight yarns. So every category has its own name, has its own tension and fabric of recommended needle size. If you're ever confused about what it means by chunky or worsted or fingering, definitely reference craft yarn council standards if you need more explanation. When it comes to your needles and tools, it'll have all the list of the materials that you need. I recommend a number of needles here. There are four different needle sizes. Shorter ones to start with the smaller necks and the sleeves. Those 16-inch circular needles. There's also 40-inch circular needles. Now, you may say, look, I don't have 40-inch circulars, but I have 36-inch circulars, I have 24-inch circulars. I'm going to see if I can make that work before I spend another $20 on a pair of needles, then make it work. This is just a guide for what you can use to make this garment. It's not absolutely necessary. Use what you have budget and then if it doesn't work out, then you can invest. Don't let the supply list limit you. The next section is gauge. Gauge is the most important part of knitting, period. What gauge is is your numbers. It's understanding what your fabric is saying to you. It's saying, I am really tight, I am really loose. You need to know this about me so that you can make educated decisions about what changes you can make to me. [LAUGHTER] You have to do it. You have to listen. A lot of people skip this part, but I have to tell you it is the most important part of your pattern. It'll tell you how many stitches you're getting within four inches. This is a standard. This is telling me I'm getting eight stitches within four inches. If I were to have, let's say, twice as many stitches within four stitches, like let's say I had 16 stitches within four inches, that means I have more stitches with an inch. It means that my fabric is tighter. The less stitches I have within an inch, within four inches, within 10 inches, it means that my fabric is looser and it informs the decisions that you're going to make throughout this entire process. It's very, very important. This is telling me my gauges measured over stuck in that stitch. Stuck in that stitch is a very basic stitch and knitting, and it's just the knit one probe one stitch. Stuck in that stitch is literally the most basic, commonly used stitch in the world. You want to check your gauge over the stitch that's being referred to in the pattern because your stitch affects your tension. Cables tend to really draw in the fabric and it makes a tighter gauge. I'm checking this panel over stuck in that stitch in the round end block. This is the gauge in the round, meaning you've knitted maybe a small hat or maybe something small in the round to be able to check your gauge. Because when we're knitting the round, we knit tighter than when we're knitting flat. That's why you want to check your gauge in the pattern that you're using, either in the round or flat, depending on what the pattern is saying to do. We're knitting in the round. You want to make sure you're checking gauge when it's blocked. All that information is literally given in two lines. You literally make or break your project. Don't skip it. It's the most important thing. There is also a little note. You'll often see this in patterns. We'll say something like use US 15s or use this needle size or the size needed to obtain the gauge. Now, this can be a little confusing because the supply list is totally the news that you needed. Then in gauge just saying, well, you might actually need a whole another set of needles. This is actually customary across patterns. This is a standardized way of writing any patterns where the assumption is that you've checked your gauge and then you've purchased in your supplies. It's very interesting. It can be very confusing, but keep that in mind that when you pick your yarn, you may swatch it on a US 15 and find that it's too loose. You're just getting like six stitches to the inch, not eight. It's just so much looser. You have to go down a needle size, maybe the US 13 to be able to get two stitches to an inch. That's pretty much the materials page. That gives you some of the basic information. There's also generally a section on notes on construction. They'll tell you how a sweater is constructed. This sweater is in the round from the top-down and the waist circumference is a little slightly smaller than the chest circumference. The sleeves are worked then around in circular needles. You use magic loop if necessary. Now, depending on your pattern, I'll give you more or less information. It's basically just to give you a basic understanding of what's going to be happening before you get started. I also have a schematic with all the important measurements that you'll need. These measurements are really great when you're modifying patterns because you may see that the sleeve is 1.5 already and so you want to maybe lengthen your sleeve. You'll say, I need to make this 10 inches longer to make it 11.5, 25 inches. We're going to reference these numbers in a bit when we start making modifications. Then this part in sections. I like to break my patterns up in sections. I do a lot of italicizing and styling to bring your attention to certain areas. We have the knit hem is where we're going to begin. Then there's a join hem round. There's a whole section dedicated to the regular shaping, which is that really beautiful yolk shaping on the sweater. There's a section about separating the sleeves from the body, shaping the waist, the bind off. Basically, it tells you everything you need to know, the sleeves and the finishing. Now, something I will say that's very unique to my pattern is that I do something called in-text abbreviation. That means there isn't a separate section for abbreviations. The first time I use it, I'll write it out and then I'll abbreviate it. For an example, I'll say something like, let's look here. Like I said, join a new ball of yarn with the right side. I say, the abbreviation from then on now is going to be RS. If I ever use this term again, I'm going to abbreviate it right-side. That's something to keep in mind with my patterns. Some patterns have separate abbreviation lists, and I do in texts abbreviations. Once you have your pattern, I highly recommend reading it from beginning to end. Next, we're going to talk about yarn substitution. If you don't want to use the yarn, I recommend in the pattern. How do you choose your yarn? We're going to talk about that next. 4. Choosing the Right Yarn: Let's talk about yarn substitution. Now, this is a pattern modification. If you're following a pattern and the pattern recommends Purl Soho Wooly Wool, that's the yarn I use. You say Brandy, I like Purl Soho Wooly but I have some other yarn I want to use. That's a pattern modification. Choosing a different yarn will change the finished look of your sweater, sometimes changing the yarn will affect your drip. It will affect the fit, it will affect the look, the colors you have access to, the way it feels on your body. It is a modification from the original patterns. That's where we're going to start. One thing to know about pattern modification is that you can make it a very simple one. If the pattern is recommending Purl Soho Wooly Wool, you can just find a yarn that's similar to Purl Soho Wooly Wool. Now, Purl Soho Wooly Wool is a super bulky weight yarn, it has a certain gauge. Now, I'm looking for a yarn that's similar to Purl Soho Wooly Wool. I'm looking for something that will give me about two to two-and-a-half stitches to an inch. Now, Purl Soho also has another chunky yarn very similar called Gentle Giant, I'm going to look at my label and I'm going to say, is this something I can use for the gayest crew as a pattern modification? The first thing you're going to do, is you're going to look at your yarn label. This is assuming you're in a store or maybe you're shopping your stash and you're wondering if you can use yarn you already have or a yarn, you want to purchase new, you're going to read your yarn label. I know my pattern is saying I need about two stitches to an inch or eight stitches to four inches. When I look at my yarn label for this different yarn is called Purl Soho Gentle Giant is 100% Merino wool. This yarn label is saying, I'll be able to get 6-8 stitches over four inches. That means that I can get something that's pretty loose but eight stitches is exactly what I'm hoping to get. Now. I might have to bring this down a needle size because look, it's recommending I use a 17 or 19 needle to get eight stitches to four inches. I might have to use a size 17 instead of 15 to get this gauge or I might need to go down, I don't know. All I know, eight stitches to four inches tells me I can use this yarn as a substitution. Now I also have some other yarns. These are all very similar in weight. They're from different companies. I did the same thing. I read the yarn label and they're all telling me that I can get eight stitches to four inches using these yarns, I might just have to use a different needle size. That's something to keep in mind when you're doing yarn substitutions is that you might be able to get the gauge, but you might have used a different needle size. That's something to keep in mind. One question I'm often asked is can I use a different yarn weight? Now, this is where things can get a little tricky. You can totally use a different yarn weight. You can say Brandy, bulky yarns aren't my thing, I want to use a smaller yarn. Now by smaller, I mean, this is what is considered an errand or a worsted weight yarn, this is considered a decay to a sport weight yarn. These are going to get me more like 13 to 14 to 16 stitches, 16 stitches within four inches. That's half the size of what the pattern recommends. If you want to use a much smaller yarn than what your pattern recommends, then it's not a pattern modification, it is a new design. That's just something to keep in mind, is not an easy fix. It's not, I'm going to use a smaller yarn and so I'll just make a bigger size. Sometimes it's not that easy. It's doable, it's possible, but this class doesn't cover how to use a different yarn weight altogether, but rather how to choose a different yarn within the same family of yarns. Definitely try it, definitely experiment with it but know that is not a pattern modification, you're designing a new sweater when you change your yarn weight. Other designers might differ from me, but that is my experience being a designer. I'm using a smaller yarn, the numbers are completely different, the shape is completely different, I'm making a lot of different design decisions than I would using bulky yarn. If you have more questions about how to pick your yarn, how to find your own substitutions that work for you, for the pattern that you're following, I'll link a few options in the class resources. There is Ravelry, which is very popular social platform for knitters. You can find yarn substitutions on Ravelry. There is a, where you can type in a yarn and it'll give you some alternatives that you can use. If that's you and you want more help and feel free to drop any questions in the discussion below. let me know what you think. Next, we're going to make and check our gauge swatch. 5. Making a Gauge Swatch: Welcome to the gauge lesson. Gauge is so important, and it's probably one of the most critical aspects to designing that where gauge is how you measure the tightness or looseness of your fabric. It's the first step in designing a pattern, there's really no getting around it. If you want to modify a pattern, you definitely want to have an accurate and proper gauge swatch. Gauge is different for every knitter, and it changes depending on how loose unit, how tight unit. It's unique to every single person who picks up a needle in a ball of yarn. You can get five stitches to an end, or you could get 10 stitches to an end, sometimes using the same needle and the same yarn if you have two different knitters. It's a recipe. You give two people the same recipe, you get two completely different dishes. Think about gauge as something that really changes on your mood, the needles you use, the yarn you use. It's important when you're making changes to a pattern, to swatch the yarn, the needle, and to also use the stitch pattern you're going to be using for your final piece. We're modifying the guess crew, which is knit in the round using stockinette stitch. I want to show you how to go about checking your gauge if you're working in the round because that can really affect the tension of your fabric. Most of us will knit a little tighter when we knit in the round, and so we want to account for that. This is a stockinette stitch swatch that's knit flat, and this is a sweater that's knit in the round. The difference between my gauge when I'm knitting flat in stockinette stitch versus when I'm knitting in the round, can make the difference between a sweater that fits you perfectly or a sweater that is way too tight, because in the round you knit all of your stitches and many of us tend to knit a lot tighter than we do when we pearl. Stockinette stitch when you knit it flat, It's knit one row, column and row. Many of us tend to be a little looser in that area, is why you want to swatch in the round. Because this is a class about really being accurately, when you're checking your gauge, I'm going to show you how to knit in the round to check your swatch on a small little sample. I'm going to use a circular needle to do this because we don't need a huge swatch; we don't need a sweater size swatch. We're trying to figure how to create just a small swatch in the round to check our gauge. We want to make sure that it's at least eight inches around because gauge is generally checked over four inches. First, I'm going to pick my circular needle. Magic loop is a technique that allows you to work in the round on a very small number of stitches without needing double pointed needles, and you can use any number of switches that you want. Be careful, little clumsy at first, but you will get used to it. I have a few needle sizes here. I have a US 15, 16 and circular, I have a US 24 and circular, and I have a US 15, 40 and circular. You can use whatever needle size that you have in stock in your own stash in terms of length. I'm using the US 15 because that's what my yarn recommends, and that's the needle I want to use for my sweater. But, I'm going to use my 24 and circular since this is probably one of the most commonly used knitting needles. When you're working with bulky yarn and if you have to purchase these needles specifically, it's worth it because you'll use them a lot. I'm going to start with just casting on my stitches like I normally would. I love the long tail cast on, so I'm going to use that method and give myself enough tail just to quickly cast on. You can use whatever method works for you. If this is a swatch, you may want to use the needle size your pattern recommends. For this pattern, I recommend using a US 11 to work your hem. You might want to start with the US 11, and swatch your hem and then move into using your US 15, your larger needle sizes to create the stockinette stitch and create a really proper swatch using all the techniques that are in your pattern. I'm going to cast on 22. [NOISE] [LAUGHTER] I don't have too much tail, but that's okay. Here we go. I have my 22 stitches casted on, and in order to work in the round, I have to join the first stitch I casted on which is over here with the last I try to casted on which is over here. Now, you're like, "Well, how am I going to do that when the stitch is so far from this stitch?" This is where magic loop comes in. What I'm going to do is I'm going to take half of my stitches, 11. I'm going to create a little loop. This is where the magic comes in, [LAUGHTER] this is where the loop comes in. I'm going to push those 11 stitches up onto my other needle. You're going to see this widen here, it's completely okay, don't let it bother you. It's really going to bounce back once you get started. I'm just going to push these stitches. Now, I will say I tend to cast on tight so you can see me pushing them up a little bit with a lot of tension and it's because I cast on tight. It won't always be the case for you, especially if you're using a different cast on you cast on looser. Here we go. What you want is to have some breathing where you want to be able to maneuver these stitches together. You can see how I just pushed half of my stitches here, and then the rest of my stitches are just loosely distributed on this right hand needle and then making sure that my stitches are not twisted. They don't look twisted. I'm going to join my round. Here's my first stitch I casted on, here's my last stitch I casted on so I can now join the round. I'm going to join that round here first by knitting a stitch, you could place a marker if you like. Sometimes I'll just use my tail as my marker. When I see my tail, I'm like, "I've passed around." I'm just going to knit those 11 stitches onto my right hand needle, and then continue to redistribute them when I need to. You can see this is a technique that I don't often use, I prefer using what is called double pointed needles. These are double pointed needles. These also allow you to work in the round. This is my preference. Each time I have to push this up, and remember my cast on is tight, it's not going to always be this tight. After I push this up, and the double pointed needles I could just keep going, I don't have to keep on maneuvering my needle so much. The double pointed needle allow me to seamlessly work in the round, and I'm actually going to transfer over to my double pointed needle because I want to talk to you about understanding your fabric, and why that's so important while I get a little basic swatch coming to show you what it's supposed to look like. But, that's basically how magic loop works. Now, you can see I'm already working in the round. You're going to have a little space or close up every time. You don't worry too much about it. Sometimes, what I'll do is I'll try and change it where my magic loop is coming from so that It doesn't put too much strain on one area, like you see there's a little bit of strain here. But, I'm going to go back around one more time so I can fix that. I have 22 stitches, and I'm going to evenly divide them onto three needles. I have about seven stitches per needle. [NOISE] When you're making your swatch, you can use magic loop or you can use double pointed needles to check in the round, and use whatever method is most accessible to you. [NOISE] Then we have our last bit of stitches here. The effort that goes into creating a swatch is so worth it, and I'm going to tell you why in a minute. We're going to have a little [NOISE] conversation you and me [LAUGHTER] about why it's so important, and the lessons we can learn from it. I'm just going to keep on knitting. I'm going to keep on knitting till I have a nice little bit I can measure. Ideally, your swatch is going to be 4 by 4 inches wide. Because this is the round, when I lay it flat, ideally I have at least four inches on the front to measure and four inches on the back. I can have a really proper fabric. I can measure around and get an accurate description of what my gauge is doing, what my tension is doing. Here we go. We have dug. Again, I would knit at least to get myself to four inches. But, I want to show you what it's going to look like when you have your own gauge swatch in the round. It's going to look something like this. You're going to see, and I'm going to show you, this is what my fabric looks like when I'm knitting in the round after it's been washed. This is it in the round and washed. This is in the round before it's been washed. You can see this fabric is a little tighter, definitely tighter; it's going to open up a lot when I wash it. It could be that I'm knitting tighter simply because today I'm knitting tighter. When we're under stress or we're anxious or we're excited, it will change the tension of our fabric. You also have to know these things can affect your swatch too. Mine is looking a little more tight than I anticipated, but I know it's going to open a lot when I wash it. 6. Measuring Gauge: Let's just quickly go over how to measure gauge. Let's get our gauge swatch numbers. Then we'll move into understanding our bodies' numbers and we'll combine them. I'm going to put this to the side. Basically, when I'm finished with this swatch, I'm going to want to wash it, I'm going to want to lay it flat to dry. I want to see how it's going to open up because it's going to grow at least an inch or two, and then I'm going to measure this gauge swatch. Because I already have a finished sweater that's knit in the round in the needle size I plan to use, we can check gauge here for the purposes of this lesson. Well, let's check gauge three ways, over four inches, over two inches, over one inch. You want to try your best to get literally to the half stitch, to understand what your gauge is going. Because I have such can make the difference between a sweater that's three inches big or three inches small, and it can really make a difference. Here we go. I'm going to take my stitch gauge and I'm going to check my roll gauge so you can see what that looks like. In order to check your gauge, you want to identify your first stitch that you want to measure. Every stitch is like a little v. It looks just like this. It's like a little v, and here's another one, here's another one, here's another one. I'm going to try it as much as possible line my inch marker right along the outside of that stitch, and I'm going to count how many stitches I'm getting within these four inches. Now, I love this needle gauge from Pro-Soho because it has already created this beautiful [LAUGHTER] indentation for me to measure. It makes measuring gauge a lot easier, and I'm going to go ahead and count those stitches. I have 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, that's wonderful eight stitches to four inches. Let's count over an inch. That's one, that's two. I have two stitches to an inch. Let's count over two inches, 1, 2, 3, 4, I have four stitches to the end. The reason why you want to do it that way is because sometimes, when you measure over just one inch, sometimes you're missing just like a eighth of a stitch that can add up over many stitches. You check to see if you're getting the same gauge over one, over two, over two inches, to make sure that it's consistent. I know here that is pretty consistent, and I'm getting two stitches to an inch, or eight stitches to four inches. For the purpose of this class, I'm going to talk about gauge pretty much either in four-inch increments as a customary is spoken about in the industry or to the inch. Now I find that it's much easier for me to speak about gauge so the inch I'll say it's two stitches to an end or three stitches to an end. To check my row gauge, each v counts as a row. Here's one row, here's another row, another row, another row. I'm going to try my best to line up my needle gauge, to line up right below this row here. Hopefully, it looks like it's ending right about here. I'm going to count how many rows I have within these four inches. Count each individual v here, 2,3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, wonderful. Same thing applies, let's see if I'm getting three to an inch,1, 2, 3. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stitches to two inches wonderful. I'm getting two stitches and three rows to one inch. That is powerful information to have, especially if it's accurate because you'll be able to create a design that's spot on fits you the way you want it to fit. Go ahead and practice checking your gauge and the round using magic loop or double-pointed needles. I will see you in the next lesson where we're going to learn how to take our own measurements and understand our bodies numbers. 7. Taking Your Body Measurements: Let's learn how to take our own measurements based on the adjustments we want to make to our pattern. Now I have a very basic line drawing here that is showing what modifications I want to make to the [inaudible] screw. The original pattern is short sleeve. It has a cropped waist. I love that about it. It's very cute, very sexy. But I want something that is a little longer. I want long sleeves, I want a longer waist. I also want it to be a little bigger, maybe like 8 inches of ease. I want to have that oversize look. There are a few key measurements that I want to understand about my own body in order to make the changes I want to make. There are hundreds of measurements in our body. There's a whole system of measurements that you can use when you're designing clothes and designing knitwear. Because we're using an existing pattern, we don't really have to know everything or every measurement because the pattern already accounts for some of the measurements we already have. For example, the neck line, how many stitches I cast on for my neck is something that you don't want to play around with too much because if you make your neck line too small, it won't fit over your head. If you make it too big, you might see your bra straps or it might hang over your shoulders. That's not really look, that's not really a style, that's not really a measurement we want to play around with. But in order to understand that measurement, I need to know my back neck. But that's something that the designer consider. I'm not even going to worry about that measurement. But some of the changes that I do want to make, I want to make my sleeve a little bigger. I want to make my waist longer. I want to make my sleeves longer. I also wanted to make the sweater bigger overall. In order to check these measurements to understand what my body is doing so I can make those adjustments, I'm going to measure my arm, my chest measurement, and I also want know my waist measurement. I'm just going to quickly take those measurements. The best way to take your own measurements is to ideally have someone else do it for you if you can. It can take some flexibility to take your own measurements, or you can measure an existing sweater that you love. You don't necessarily have to measure your own body. You could say, I want to create something that's similar to my favorite sweatshirt and you can plug those measurements in. But make sure that you're wearing something that is fitted, something really thin, or you're doing it maybe with your favorite bra that gives you the most lift and fit or take your measurements in your birthday suit. Do it when you're naked. Because if you're measuring over a sweater, over a jacket, you're not getting accurate measurements for your body. In order to measure your upper arm, you're going to go ahead and just wrap that tape measure around the biggest part of your arm, not too tight, not too loose. You want to have a nice little clothes fit. Then write down that measurement. In order to measure your chest, you're going to put on your favorite bra or go ahead and measure your bare tests at the largest point right below your underarm. It's going to be the largest point of your upper body and you're going to take that measurement. My measurement is about 38 inches around for my chest. Next, I'm going to measure my waist. When you're measuring your waist, it's going to be right just above your pubic bone and you're going to measure from your upper arm to just above your pubic bone and that's going to be your waist length. My waist length is 13 inches. Then I'm going to measure my waist width. That's going to be around the same area where my waist ends. I'm going to measure totally around my waist and my waist width is 36 inches. I want to make an adjustment to my sleeve. In order to measure of your sleeve, you're going to think about where you want your sleeve to end. I like long sleeves. You might want your to sleeve to end right at your wrist. You might want a really long sleeve that you can cuff. It's up to you. But when you're measuring your actual arm, you want to understand where you want to sleep to end and then hold your tape measure and measure right below your armpit to see how long your arm is. My arm is about 18 inches long. When you're measuring your upper arm, your upper arm is the largest point of your upper arm. I'm going to go ahead and measure that. Mine is about 13 inches. Now that I have some of these key measurements, I know what my body measurement is. I know what I want my sweater measurements to be. We're in a really good place to move on to combining our gauge numbers with our body numbers to understand what numbers we need and our actual pattern. Now I want you to go ahead and think about the changes you want to make to your sweater. Make some notes, maybe get some numbers down. If you know you want just leave to be 23 inches long because you want to make a cuff, write that number down. Then also take your body's numbers and see what your body measurements actually are in relationship to the changes you want to make. Because that information comes in really handy, both those numbers come in really handy when we start to make those actual modifications in our pattern. So go ahead, practice, get your numbers down and I'll see you in the next class where we're going to really do the math and combine our gauge numbers with our body numbers 8. Doing the Math: Now it's time to do the math. We have our gauge numbers. We know that our gauge, for me at least is two stitches and three rows equals one inch. You want to use inches when you are calculating how many stitches you need to cast on, how many rows you need to knit. Just keep that in mind, you'll see what I mean in a second. Basically now my body measurements is information. It's like it's good to know where your body is doing so you can make educated decisions about how you're going to make changes to your pattern, but at this point I know what my sweater measurements are going to be, what I want them to be how imagine it will look and work out. I'm just going to make a list of those here. I know for my chest measurement, I know I want it to be 46 inches around. I'm going to write that down. I have my waist measurement. I know I want that to be 44 inches. I have my underarm measurement. I know I want that to be 17 inches. My sleeve length, I want that to be 18 inches. My waist length, I know I want that to be 11 inches. I think those are all my numbers. I have 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. These are the numbers I need to know to make these modifications, a longer sleeve, bigger body, bigger sleeves, more ease is what I'm striving for. You want to use your stitch gauge to figure out your widths, and you want to use your row gauge to figure out your lengths. I have my chest width, I'm going to multiply that by two. My waist width, I'm going to measure that by two. My upper arm by two. My sleeve length, that's a row measurement. I'm going to multiply that by three, and I have my waist measurement. I'm going to multiply that by three because that's all about rows. Now this is my own method. I will say that makes sense to me. It's very rough, very analog. It makes sense to me. Eventually you'll find your own process of laying this out. You might want graph paper, you might use a notebook, you might now create a list, you might write your numbers in here somewhere. This is just one way to do it. Hopefully it makes a little more sense to you as we work through this lesson. I'm going to just use my calculator and make some quick calculations. I have my 46 *2, so I need 92 stitches for my chest. I know that but let's see why not. I need 88 stitches for my waist, 34 stitches for my upper arm, 54 rows for my sleeves, and 33 rows for my waist. That's really, really powerful. I know a lot now. I know that I need at least 92 stitches around my chest for it to fit the way I want it to fit. Now I want you to combine your gauge numbers with your sweater modification numbers. I want you to think, do you want your sleeve to be 20 inches long? Great. What is your row gauge? How many rows are you getting to an edge? You're going to combine those numbers. If you're also getting three rows to an inch like I am, that means you're going to need 60 rows to create the sleeve length you want. Go ahead and combine those numbers, meet me in the next lesson where I'll teach you to understand how to go about modifying your yoke which affects your sleeve width as well as your chest width 9. Modifying the Yoke: Next we are going to talk about how to go about modifying our yoke. Now in the yoke where you can make a lot of decisions that will affect both your chest with as well as your upper arm width. If you wanted a much larger chest, I'm going to want to increase more stitches in the yoke. If I want bigger sleeves, I'm going to want to increase more stitches in the yoke. Some things to know before you make any modifications to your yoke, I recommend trying to keep some of the design details intact because we're trying to modify an existing pattern, we're not trying to create a whole new one and the design elements you have in your sweater have been tested, have been tried by the designer of your pattern. You want to try and honor those design decisions when you're making modifications to an existing pattern, if that's something that you want which is what I want. I usually love a design, I just want to make some little tweaks, but I don't want it to be like a completely different piece. One of the design elements in my yoke, and you'll find that to be true in most yoke patterns that designers create is very unique to them, very unique to the fit and the look. For me, for this sweater, the force that is between my increases and my decreases, that's a design element, I wouldn't recommend changing that. If you change that, it's no longer the gates crew [LAUGHTER] It's another pattern. If you make two stitches between the increases is not the gates crew, you make it eight stitches between the increases is not the gates screw. I hope that makes sense. You want if the gates crew has four stitches between the increases, so you want to maintain that as much as possible and actually makes it easier for you because there's one less than you don't have to figure out. It took me some time to figure that out, you don't have to do that work for yourself. Another design element that is very common with Roglyn shaped sweaters that are lit from the top down in this way, for each section of the sweater, two stitches or increased every other row. What I mean by that is there are four section in the sweater. There's the back, there's the front, and there's each sleeve so that's four sections. There are two stitches increased in every section so that means eight stitches are increased every row. That only happens every other row so I increase eight stitches two in the back, two in the front, two in each sleeve. I knit one round even I do nothing, I just pleasure knit and slip my markers and then I repeat that increase again, increasing every eight stitches that row. That's a design element, I don't recommend changing that. If you do have to change it, know that if you increase every single row, you might get puckering. You might get a sweater that it gets really big, really quickly it's not something that you want. If you slow it down a lot, if you end up increasing, let's say every three rows instead of every other row, what you're going to find is that you won't have enough stitches for your sleeves and your body and you're going to find that you need to knit more rows or to get the number of stitches that you need. What ends up happening is that you get a much longer yoke instead of the yoke ending right under my arm, if you decide that you want to increase every third row instead of every other row, you might have a yoke that ends here at your elbow. You may want that, but then again, it's not the gates crew. Remember, when you're making modifications, try and stay within the confines of the pattern because that gives you a guide and a lot less work because the designer has made the decisions that you don't have to make for yourself. You just have to figure out how to plug in your own numbers and keep the pattern the same. Increase my sleeve by four inches. Like I know that my upper arm is about 13 inches around and I wanted to create a sleeve that was at least 70 inches round because I want make a nice baggy, loose sleeve and you can always just grab a tape measure and say how is a sleeve going to look if it was 17 inches, 18 inches, 20 inches, 17 felt good to me. I felt like it wasn't too big, it wasn't too tight and so that's why I pick 17, which means is like about four inches bigger than my underarm. Now, how do I make that modification? This is something where you're going to want to reference your pattern. You're going to pick a size and the pattern, and then you're going to try and figure out how to change it up. For me, I knit size 42. I knit the third size. Why did I pick size 42 for myself? Because my chest measurement is 38 inches and the pattern recommends that I have 2-4 inches of ease so the only size available to me after that is size 42 because that's +2+2 that's four inches of positivity is perfect. I flt the perfect size for myself. This sweater is saying that, okay, I am going to be making size 42. Now I want to see what the sleeve measurement for size 42 actually is because that's what I really want to change. I'm going to say size three, going to circle that. Look, it's 13, I want it to be 17 am like great, that's awesome. How do I add four inches to the sleeve? You're going to want to do this in the yoke. You're going to want to increase stitches in the sleeve in the yoke so that by the time you're ready to separate your sleeves from your body, you already have all the stitches you need in your sleeve to make it 17 inches. Now, what you can do is just increase how many more stitches you need. Now, how do you do that? This is where the math really continue, I truly hope this makes sense to you but let's do another quick little equation back here. The sleeve and the pattern is 13 inches around so that is times my gate which is two stitches to an inch. It's actually 26 stitches around my upper arm. I want to increase it by four inches, I want it to be 17 inches times two equals 34 stitches. I need 34 stitches. I'm going to do some quick math. I'm going to say, okay, 34 takeaway, 26 equals, I need to increase eight stitches more than what the pattern is telling me to do. Remember what I said, we want to stitches per section so I'm going to increase here's my sleeve. I want to increase one stitch on each side of my sleeve as the pattern of instructs but I want to add four more on each side so with a total of eight. Now where and how to add those? It's easy for you, if you do the following. You don't change the number of stitches within the increases so that you'd have to do that. You don't tate how many rows you increase, while you increase every other row. What I would do is once you follow the pattern as instructed for the pattern that you've chosen, I'm following size three for the 42 inch chest. What I'm going to do is I'm going to follow that pattern exactly as written and then I'm just going to continue increasing. When the pattern tells me to stop increasing, I'm going to keep increasing in my sleeve four more times. One stitch on each side of the sleeve. Most often that will work perfectly for my pattern, it works because in my pattern I have you stop increasing for the sleeves at some point and so what you can do is like not listened to me and to say no, I'm going to continue increasing from my sleeve and I'm going to do it 1, 2, 3, 4 more times and I hope that make sense. But that's how you would make those decisions and remember, that wouldn't affect at all my bust measurement because all I want to change is my sleeve width. If I follow my pattern as instructed and increase as many stitches I need for my chest, it's perfect. The changes that I'm making will only affect my sleeve and I have of 17 inch sleeves width on my upper arm. Now that we have a better understanding of what our yoke is doing, what changes we want to make, what changes we don't want to make, and how we can incorporate those changes in our existing pattern to get the result we want. We're ready to move on to another area which is modifying sleeve length. Go ahead and practice figuring out what adjustments you want to make an ask yourself based on what I've shared with you. Can you make those adjustments in your yoke and the way I've described, and then work that into your pattern and I'll see you in the next lesson where we'll talk about modifying a sleeve 10. Modifying the Sleeve: Now we're going to talk about modifying the sleeve. Let's just take this section by section. Let's not think about all the modifications we want at one time. For the purpose of this lesson, I'm going to take it measurement by measurement, section by section. I want to make my sleeves longer. There are so many sleeve types. We have cap sleeves, short sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, this length sleeve, like ends right here, it's not my personal style. We also have long sleeves, extra long sleeves, cuff sleeves. There's just so many options. There's puff sleeves, there's oversized sleeves, there's fittest sleeves, there's muscle tee sleeves. You can just go wild with this. I want to make a simple modification. I want to make my sleeve longer. Let's stick with the same example. Let's assume I'm following size 42, the third size in the pattern. I see that the sleeve is actually only 1.25 inches, one and a quarter inches long. I'm like, I already know I want them to be 18 inches long. How do I make that modification? I'm going to just create a quick little sleeve diagram just so we have a better understanding of what we're looking at. You can have straight sleeves, curve sleeves, but I know I want my sleeves to be a little curved in a little bit, my preference. Something I know is, I want to make my sleeve longer. I want it to be 18 inches long. One of the numbers the pattern already gives me, because remember, I'm following size 42, I know that the underarm is 13 inches, which in the pattern calculates to 26 stitches, so that's a number I already have. I'm like, great, that's one last thing I have to figure out. The next number you have to determine when you're designing a sleeve and creating a sleeve modification is how wide you want your sleeves cuff to be. In the pattern, the pattern is just a straight 13 inches. You may say, actually, I like the idea of just having really straight sleeves. I just want to keep on knitting and then just end it. Great, that's beautiful. It's easy modification. But let's say you actually want your sleeve to come in a little bit, which is my preference. I like when my sleeves are really gradually will come in just a little bit and then ends. I know I want my sleeve to be about 10 inches at the cuff. That means I have to decrease three inches to be able to get from the upper arm to the cuff. I'm going to do this little calculation here. I'm starting with 13 inches because that's what the pattern told me is supposed to be based on my size, and then I'm going to subtract that by 10 inches, that means I need to decrease three inches to get to my desired wrist cuff. But that same calculation is literally basic algebra. I'm going to multiply two stitches to an inch because that's my stitch gauge, that tells me I need to decrease six stitches total. My handwriting is much prettier than this, but look, this is what you get today. This is my designer scribble. [LAUGHTER] I need to decrease six stitches total. The same thing applies when you're modifying a sleeve. You want to try and decrease no more than two stitches per row, and again, it depends on the sleeve. If you want to have a really puffy sleeve that comes down to a really tight wrist, you might have to decrease more than two stitches in a row. I want a really gradual, calm, classic, [LAUGHTER] simple sleeve. I want this to be gradual. What I'm going to do is I know I need to decrease one on each side, so a total of six. Now the question is when, when do I start decreasing? What's the space between the decreases? That's what we need to figure out. This is how you do it. I know I want my sleeve to be 18 inches, so I have to multiply that by my row gauge, that's three rows to an inch, that's 54 rows. I already have that number, because I calculated that already. I have it here. I know I need 54 rows for my sleeve. I know times two to get my cast on number or my bind off number as I'm decreasing six stitches total. The one thing you start to think about is where these decreases should land. We know it's just three, so it's not a lot. Where should they go? Should they go here, here and here? That's something that honestly comes with some practice to figure out what your desired length is. But I can tell you that, I know that from my own body's measurements, my body tells me that I'm 13 inches in my upper arm, so I already have 13 inches to work with. My upper arm pretty much remains 13 inches all the way down until I get to my elbow. For me I'm like, my intuition tells me that I'm just going to keep on knitting straight 13 inches as my pattern tells me until I get to about my elbow, which is where I want to start decreasing because that's where my arm starts to get smaller. There's another measurement I realize I need, I need to figure out what my measurement is from here to here, or rather from here to here, just below my elbow, because that's where I'm going to start decreasing. I'm going to grab my tape measure and I'm going to go ahead and just measure. Right around my elbow. Here's my elbow here. I know my sleeve length was going to be right around here. I'm going to say about 12 inches. This is my total sleeve length. I'm going to start increasing after my elbow, and so that's another number I get to work with. I'm going to multiply that by my row gauge, and it tells me I have to decrease these three stitches over 36 rows, so not 54. Because 54 I'm just going to work even, I'm going to work six inches even, I'm not going to do any decreasing and then after that point, right as I get below my elbow, I'll start decreasing those stitches. Then it becomes, how often do I need to decrease? I got to do it a little bit of math now. I have 36 rows. Well, I definitely need one row for each increase, so that's 1, 2, 3 rows, so I can account for those. I'm going to subtract three increase rows, so now only I'm working with 33 rows. I have 33 ways to work with now, because I know I'm going to lose three because I'm using those for something else. Well, then I know the pattern says that my little trim is supposed to be like, I don't know, a quarter inch, so I'm going to lose a quarter-inch. What's a quarter inch times my row gauge? 3*1.25 tells me I'm going to need to reserve maybe two rows at least for my hem, because you want to account for things that are going to be taken up at other areas because you can't use those rows because they're being used someplace else. For the hem, I'm going to lose two rows for my hem. I'm going to say, okay, I can't account for those rows, so then I'm going to subtract that from 33, so I have 31 rows. I have 31 rows to add these decreases. This is where the decision-making comes in. These are my three increases, I want to increase even here, so then I could potentially decrease every tenth row. I can work at increase work 10 rows, work a decrease work 10 rows plus one, 11 rows. That's something I can do and that will keep my sleeve the length I want it to be, the decreases are evenly spaced, I can decrease every tenth row three times. You might have to try this out and say, I like the way it looks. That feels good to me. It's looking good. The shape is good. Or you might say, actually, I don't like that. Instead, I'm going to make my last row be my increase row. This is something you could say. You could say, you know what, I want my last row and I'm going to redraw this for you. It's really messy but this is how it can be sometimes, I promise you. [LAUGHTER] This is how it looks for a lot of designers. I'm going to put a decrease here, I'm going to put a decrease here. I want my last row to be a decrease, which means I only have two spaces to work even. I have 31 rows. I can decrease every 15th row instead of every tenth row. This is how you make these little changes, these little tweaks. Definitely come back, revisit this lesson if you need to. What I want you to do is I want you to think about how you want to adjust your sleeve. Think about the numbers that you need to make these adjustments and then decide how you want to shape that sleeve. Take notes, drop questions in the discussion below, we can support each other and I'll see you in the next lesson where we're going to talk about modifying the waist width and the waist length. 11. Modifying Waist and Shaping: Now we're going to look at waist, adjusting the waistlength and and shaping. This will give us another opportunity to look at that same formula we used, understanding how to modify our sleeves. Hopefully I'll give you a simple way of looking at how to modify your row-related measurements. Those are your lengths. I'm just going to draw a little diagram again. Here's my waist. I know that I want my waist to be 11 inches long. I've already identified that, this is just for our purposes here to make it clear for you. Now, the pattern has already written it out for me to give you the measurement, it says my size should be. When I look my schematic, what is the length that is supposed to be, they're saying that I'm doing size 3. That length is seven and a quarter of an inch. I'm going to increase about four inches more on my body length. That means I need to increase about four inches more, I want it to be four inches longer because the pattern says it should be about seven. I want it to be more like 11, so subtract seven, that's the pattern. I'm just going to get rid of the quarter, the little quarter of an inch, just for the ease of math. I need to increase four inches more. I'm going to multiply that by my row gauge, like we did in sleeve, just figure how to make that longer and it's a work 12 rows more. The question becomes where to put that additional length. You could approach that modification in two ways. You could just work four additional inches right after you separate the sleeve, just work four inches and then work the pattern in the way that is written, which is to decrease every eighth row two more times. Do it that way. That's the easiest modification you can make. This is a modification I recommend, especially if you're large chested because you want to be sure to clear your bust, like I'm very chesty. After you separate the underarm, I have to be sure not to decrease too soon because I want to clear my bust. That might be a really good way to modify a pattern for you, you just knit four more inches. You'll be sure to clear your bust or you clear your chest, if that's something that you want to make sure you do and then this do the shaping as the pattern instruct, simple. You can also make the decision to distribute those additional roles, in-between they increases themselves. The pattern says to increase every eighth row. You can say, instead of doing every eighth row, I just want to stretch it out. I want to knit more rows between the increases, so I'm going to divide 12 into two because I want to divide that, I want to separate those additional inches into those two separate sections. The pattern says to decrease three stitches on each side, a total of six stitches. I like that, I want to keep that. I like the shape, I don't want to change that aspect of the pattern. I just want to make it longer. The last decrease happens right before we start the hem. I want to maintain that and I'm going to tell you why I think you should too. This is one of those design elements that I recommend you don't change. My reason is because I want it to tuck in a little bit. I want to reduce any flare that might happen with the hem. I want it to be really nice and tucked in, and have a really sexy vibe, which I think happens with that kind of shape. I don't want to change that. Well then I'm not going to add any additional rows after the last decrease because the pattern doesn't do it, and I don't want to do it either and I want to keep the shape. Well then I need to figure out a way to add these additional rows. Let's say I want to add more rows here, 1, 2 and three. I'm going to divide 12 into three, that means I'm going to add four additional rows to each section I can add it to based on what the pattern is telling me to do. I can add it four rows right after I separate myself from my body. I can add four rows. Instead of doing it every eighth row, like the pattern says, I can decrease every 12th row. You see how easy the math is working. I'm just going to add more space in between my decreases and that keeps the shape but makes it longer. I'm going to add four additional rows between these last two decreases here. I hope that makes sense. It's the basic understanding of how to go about modifying your waistline, specifically how to make it longer. One of the most commonly asked questions is, can I make it longer? Especially when we're dealing with crop tops is not a design for everybody. Some people don't like crop tops, it's not the shape for everyone. If you want to make it longer, this is how you would go about doing it. I'm really so excited for you to make these changes to your pattern and I'm excited to see your work. 12. Final Thoughts: We learned a lot [LAUGHTER] We reviewed our pattern. We have a better understanding of what our pattern means and what it's doing. We checked our gauge specifically for our own pattern, and in this case it was understanding how to knit a swatch in the round. We learnt how to check our [inaudible] through different ways, how to modify our yolk, our sleeves our waist to make the changes we want to make to our pattern. I'm so, so excited for you. One thing about math is that it's integral to everything we do. It's in the universe that helps us understand our world better, our lives better. It's a music, it's in food, it's a knitting. It's an everything that we do and the one thing to keep in mind is that we don't have a full understanding of it. At any point in this class you feel a little confused, that's a natural feeling because math is confusing. Our mind can always wrap our mind around it and that's okay. Definitely revisit these lessons as needed Know that you have the capacity to make the changes that you want to make, not only your life, but in your work and in your knitting practice, let go perfection, have fun. If you have any questions or thoughts, share them in the discussion, we can help each other, support each other. Knitting really is a community building exercise so share below, and I'll see you in the next class.