Pattern Making - How To Create A Sloper/Block From Scratch - Fashion | Caroline Barulis PurePatternCutting | Skillshare

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Pattern Making - How To Create A Sloper/Block From Scratch - Fashion

teacher avatar Caroline Barulis PurePatternCutting, Pattern Cutter & Maker

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      1 Intro


    • 2.

      2 Taking measurements and plotting the grid


    • 3.

      3 Plotting the grid


    • 4.

      4 Adding darts and shaping to the sloper/block


    • 5.

      5 Outlining sloper/block onto mannequin


    • 6.

      6 Draping the sloper with fabric part 1


    • 7.

      7 Draping the sloper with fabric part 2


    • 8.

      8 Marking up your fabric sloper PART 1


    • 9.

      9 Marking up your fabric sloper PART 2


    • 10.

      10 Removing sloper from mannequin


    • 11.

      11 Transfering the sloper onto paper part 1


    • 12.

      12 Transfering the sloper onto paper part 2


    • 13.

      13 Transfering sloper onto card part 1


    • 14.

      14 Transfering sloper onto card part 2


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About This Class

Course Outline:

1) Intro

2) Taking measurements and plotting the grid

3) Plotting the grid

4) Adding darts and shaping to the sloper/block

5) Outlining sloper/block onto mannequin

6) Draping the sloper with fabric part 1

7) Draping the sloper with fabric part 2

8) Marking up your fabric sloper PART 1

9) Marking up your fabric sloper PART 2

10) Removing sloper from mannequin

11) Transferring the sloper onto paper part 1

12) Transferring the sloper onto paper part 2

13) Transferring sloper onto card part 1

14) Transferring sloper onto card part 2

We will cover:

- Pattern cutting basics. 

- Taking measurements and plotting these on a grid to start block building 

- Block/Sloper construction by flat pattern making. 

- Block/Sloper construction by draping calico onto a mannequin, markin it up and taking a pattern from this

- Block/Sloper construction by draping on a mannequin/dress form. 

- Introducing you to blocks and slopers (the tools of the trade). 

- Basic garment construction.

Course Requirements:

You should come with a passion to learn pattern making or a basic knowledge to learn more. 

All of the lectures are delivered by video. The content is a fabulous introduction to the wonderful world of Pattern Cutting & Making. Which is the key skill in garment making. At the end of the course you will be ready to move forward in your pattern cutting journey.

This course is designed for:

- Fashion students

- Industry professionals 

- Pattern Cutters and Makers

- Hobbyists

- Fashion enthusiasts

Equipment you will need is: Pencil, Ruler, Rubber, Calculator, Measuring tape, Pattern paper, Notcher, Tracing wheel, Card optional

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Caroline Barulis PurePatternCutting

Pattern Cutter & Maker


I'm Caroline, a Creative Pattern Cutter and Maker and specialise in draping and modelling on the stand. I have worked at the heart of London and Paris fashion for over 20 years and have focused my career in the luxury and ready-to-wear sector, creating iconic garments for the stores and catwalk along side bespoke/couture and made to measure garments. I have worked for a large number of design houses, fashion magazines and stylists including designing and pattern cutting for high profile clients and celebrities including Victoria Beckham, Sienna Miller, Lady Gaga, Beyonce and The Duchess of Cambridge. I'm so pleased I can now share some of skills I've learned along the way with you!

See full profile

Level: Beginner

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1. 1 Intro: Hey, guys. And welcome to pure passing cutting. I'm going to be showing you how to draft a block or Sloper from scratch on by dropping it on the mannequin or dress form. So gonna be showing you two different methods so you can see which one suits you best are going to be working with rough size 10 UK measurements, but these measurements can be customized to your specific measurements or your client or your body shape. Whatever suits you best on top of the usual tools passing, gutting a couple of extras they might be useful is get yourself a mannequin or address form . But I will also be doing it from scratch, so this isn't essential for part of the course. A bit of muslin or calico about meter of that should do the trick. Some pins some of this tailoring tape or Shobin Tate with the sticky back. If you don't have that, you could issues normal ribbon and we can just pin it on the stand. This absolutely find a calculator is absolutely essential on all whichever rule you find easiest to work with. I worked with both of them. My grading square on my French curve, which is really good to get a bit of shaping into the block. And also afterwards you can plot it onto some card. This is Manila card or any other card you've got. It is great to put your block or slow but onto card afterwards because it will have a lot of wear and tear from it. I hope you enjoy it. I'm super excited about it. And I had a lot of demand for this course and I hope you enjoy it. Thank you. 2. 2 Taking measurements and plotting the grid: hi, guys. And welcome to my course. I'm going to be plotting from scratch A grid for a block and a Sloper. There are a few measurements you need for this. I'm going to be using UK size 10 rough measurements for my block. But if you have your own measurements, you can put these into the grid as well, or your clients measurements or whatever you're using. So these measurements can be customized. Eso don't take my measurements as the rule. If you like, you can put in whatever measurement you want. But I want to show you that the measurements that you do need to create your initial block and Sloper I'll show you or myself in the mannequin. But if you're measuring your client or yourself, you can do those measurements. Eso first. We need your bust measurement, which is round the touching through the nipple area. Don't pull your measure your measuring tape to type that you want to go around there just under the arms, right the way round. My mission I'm going to be using is 88 centimeters on the other measurement you need is your nape to waist and the nape is your that bone there that you can see on the back of your neck. It is really starting from there at the top of the back of the neck. So there's real right the way from the top right away, down the center, back of your bodies to your waist, which is the narrowest point of your body, if you like. On my nape to waist measurement, I'm going to use his 40 centimeters on, and then you need your waist to hip measurement eso as a kind of ah, rough guide from your waist down. It's about 20 centimeters on bits around the widest part off your hip, if you like, but it's always about 20 centimeters. There. There about it's really round the the widest part of your body, something like that on de, So that's 20 centimeters down that measurement, and then you want your arm hole. Death on this measurement is from the top off your arm hole there, and it's in a straight line all the way down to almost at the top. Off your body's on on hit on May my mind's 21 so it's right. The top head go in a straight line on its You don't touch right up in the arm or you don't want a board is too tight. So you just want that Drop that measurement there, down the the measurement to create the arm hole of your bodies. Broken minds going to be 21 centimeters. The other measurement is your neck measurements. To get your measuring tape right around it, pull. You pull it too tight. You just want to lose, kind of. Maybe put one finger under the measure measuring tape on measure around your entire neck. Measurement on mine is going to be 37 centimeters on The other Measurement you need is your shoulder measurement, and that's just a straight line right away from the most highest point of your shoulder, where it joins your neck. It's called the highest shoulder point, where your H S P on the mannequin is this point here, where it just joins from my shoulder to my neck. Here, you want to go in a straight line all the way out to where almost like your seem line would be on your top of your T shirt right the way across there. So for me, I'm going to use 12 centimeters and then you want your back with measurement and it's almost like the most inwardly point of your back there. And we're gonna go right away, away across its from like, your arm Hold arm whole right the way across like the most kind of inwardly point there. Eso mine is 35 centimeters, right. The Red Cross. The other measurement is a dark measurement Onda and quite a nice measurement for us or side eight or 10 for its from your side seam. And it would be where it joins kind of your your nipple area. That's where we're going to put the volume in the shaping. Eso My measurement is going to be 10 centimeters from that bus point to the side seam and all. My mannequin, it would go something across like that on then. The other measurement is your chest measurement and again like the back width is almost like the most inwardly point off your your body here. So it would go right the way across always like your arm hole to your arm hole. Something like that. My measurement is going to be 34 centimeters right the way across my body there. So as you can see from my chart that I've got here, this is what we're roughly going to be creating when we're finished. We're just gonna work on the half bodies at the moment to create our block, assuming that it's going to be a symmetrical bodies. And we start working in a grid on DWI, work from the centre backs from the centre front and to create a symmetrical body shape. And this is what you can use going forward for all of your pattern cutting and dark manipulation going forward. So, as you can see right, you're going to create a I am a shoulder dark in our front bodies, but with the option that we're going to swing it into a a bus start there, I cannot show you how to do that later. Wrong. I'm just going toe. Put that aside and I'll show you our plot on now how to do the initial stages for your grid for your block on your sleeper. So what you want to do? You use your spot across your plain paper or whatever you have. Get your get your ruler and you want to draw a straight line all the way down. Yuk unusual spots. I'm just going to use this mark. A pencil. You can see it clearly. And I'm just gonna mark a 0.0 at the top there, something like that. So at a right angle to my 0.0 up there some, I'm going to just do you a straight line right away at a right angle, right the way across that line, about 60 or 70 centimeters, as you can see. So we've got this right ankle going down like that, and then we want to create the We want to create this. This is going to be our center back. So we're going to find all the points down off centre back, So create. We're going to create 0.1, which is about 1.5 centimeters down from zero on. We're going to mark this as 00.1 and then from 0.1, we want to get our bust level somewhere around here, So we want to get arm hole measurement. My arm hole measurement is 21 on. Then add on about 2.5 centimeters. I've got 23.5 centimeters, So go down this straight line down my center back from 1 23.5 centimeters. So it is there, and that's going to be 0.2 is gonna mark this as my bust. Andi. So what we want to do is you want to find the center front of our grid S o r bus. We want to find the width across our whole body. But we were just working on the half bodice. Don't forget for a minute. S o r bust measurement, which minus 88 half this by two divided by two is 44 centimeters. I just want to add a little bit more e so it's not skin tight. Just want to add one more centimetre that I'm doing a close fitting bodice block. So that's 45 centimeters so square across from here, An adult square across 45 sent to native just out on a little bit more hit on. This will be my 0.3 warty, five centimeters on. This is my 0.3 s. So what? You want to do it with a square completely up and this will create my center front line square away the weight down again. So it's similar level to the centre back. I'm gonna labor that center front and that's going to indicate the front of my body's block , which is almost like if you're to split your body in half, it would be your your the line that goes right down the middle off your body, which is creating half a body set for this block. And this is what you're used to reference all of your your patterns after that. So then we label this point for up here like that, and then we want to find where our waist hips from our bust point. So from 0.1, it's our nape to waist measurement. Remember, we did that. So mine is going to be 40 centimeters. So down this line on your center about Lango 40 centimeters down here on mark this as 0.5 and this few square across to hit your center front line. Usual spots in crossing you ruler go to across so it hits your center front line. This is my waist measurement on. This is 0.6 units. It's starting to shit take shape now then we want to find where are hip is. Remember we did that before So, uh, we want to go from our waste down to our hip. Remember, we said it was about 20 centimeters. So down your center back line again. Go 20 centimeters down from your waist there, and we'll mark that as your hip. And that will become 0.7. So again, from your center backs square across using your spotting cross to hit your center front line, as you can see on this will become 0.8. Right. We have off initial grid for our block and Sloper off my size 10 measurements. So join me in the next lesson on I'll show you how to actually plot on the all the positions that you need to create your block on your Sloper. Thank you. 3. 3 Plotting the grid: Hi, guys. Welcome back on. We're going to actually be plotting onto the grid, Our bodies, front and back. Just a bit of a recap on what we did before. I've got my image here. This is actually what we're going to be creating, but this is out full, like a full front and back bodies if you like. But actually, which is working on 1/2 bodice? This is what we would do with our block and Sloper eventually on. Then you use the half off the shape of your bodies to work into patterns on, then assuming that it's gonna be symmetrical when it's folded out onto the centre front or center back lines. So we're going to create a shoulder dart in my front bodies. However, I will show you later on how to swing it into a a bus start, which is how I like to work on my body. So I just find it a little bit easier. But I'll show you how to do that later on s O. This is what we're eventually gonna be working into. Just a very simple, customized bodies. I've just got these measurements here, which is a rough kind of UK size 10 measurement, but measurements. But again, use your own measurements or your mannequin or, you know, use a child or your clients measurements or whatever you need to do to customize these measurements that everybody, everybody's different as we know. Eso. Yep. Right. So I will just move that aside. I've got my notes was well with me. So just bear with me, huh? Right, So we're going to we will work into the back bodice. First of all, creating are back, neck, shoulder on a back arm hole, and then we'll work into the front, so need your count later. Get your french curve because we need to add in some nice, A nice bit of shaping. Right? So we've got our grid here, which we started last time on the lesson before we've got our center back hole. Center fronts are bust. Line our waste on our hip on number two point number one. There is our nape. Just write that in that. Just so we know. Okay, So we want to find we were trying to find out the back neck shape. So we want to get the I put my measurements next to me there. So we want 1/5 off the neck size. So my neck is 37. If I divide that by five, I've got 7.4, so I want to square across from zero a 7.4 centimeters. Get your ruler square across there and hit there. That's point number nine, and this will actually become my highest shoulder point, really? At the top of my shoulder, where it hits the neck. So, artist, put H S P on that will stand for highest shoulder point. So now we want to try and create up the are back shoulder line in. You want to create 0.10 on this one. So we want our arm hole depth. My arm hole depth is, um, 21 centimeters. Divide that by five and then we want to minus one centimeter also plus one centimeter onto this. Sorry, it's minus one centimeter. Big bottom. Oh, let's do that again. Sorry. So it's my arm. Hole depth is 21. Divide that by five on, then minus one centimeter. So 3.2. So we want to go down there 3.2 centimeters and that will bay my 0.10. And then what we want to do is just square across a little bit across. Let's go across about 20 centimeters, just using your ruler as a right angle on that point. And then we want to try and we want to plot in our back neck, shaping here from 1 to 9. That's going to come up back neck. So get your your ruler on. Just put in a really nice curves. You want to try and hit these two points here, so use your French curve, get really nice pivot around and see what works for you. So you want to try and hit this point here on hit number nine? Just drawing a really nice Curbelo is quite nice. Okay, we get it is quite nice, isn't it? So we want to find it yet. We want to try and create our back shoulder. So on your on this line that goes across here, we want Teoh put in our back shoulder length. Mine is 12 centimeters on. I want to just add a little bit of ease on it, so I'm just gonna add 1/2 centimeters. I'm going a bit. Do 12.5 centimeters. So put your ruler on point number nine on um, And then we want to try and hit somewhere on this line that we've squared across 12 point five centimeters and that's they 12.5. And that's the point there and just mark that as 0.11. So you want to try and create your back arm hole here. So from point to you want to try, we want to go across here when what? The measurement that we need is half of your back width measurement. My back width measurement is 35 so divide that by two it's 17.5 centimeters. I just want to add a little bit of easing there, so just add one centimeter e. So I've got 18.5 centimeters. So from number two, just square across cert 18.5 centimeters, and that's going to become point 12. We're gonna just square up from here. Just it won't hit number 11 because every every person's got a different shoulder length she know from out there. But just square up and down something like that now become 0.13 where it just hits that point and then, um, just find a halfway down this line, and this is gonna become, like, the middle point of our back arm horse that just get your greater square of the route or whatever you find. We want to go in between this line across here, which is where it hits 0.13 point 12. Just find half of that measurement. Mind something like 10 point wants something like that and just put a point in there, and that will become 0.14. Right? So we've got a little bit of our back bodies coming on here. Got our back neck are back shoulder. Now we're going to start plotting in our are from so from 0.4, which you can see that runs down our center front line again. We want a 1/5 of our NEC measurement. My neck measurement is 37 centimeters. So divide that by five, which is 7.4. I'm just gonna minus off a little. A little bit of half a centimetre. Group's a 7.4 minus 0.5 is 6.9. So just square across from number four and find 76.9 centimeters and this will become point 15 on this again is going to for my higher shoulder point. So eventually it will marry up with my back shoulder point and that will become my front highest shoulder point. And now, from the higher shoulder point, we just want to find the front. Drop off our bodies. And that's where, like it's almost like the centre front off your bodies that runs exactly symmetrical down the centre front of your body. So again, we need 1/5 of my neck measurement. So 37 my neck is divided by five, and that is 7.4. So we want Teoh find 7.4 down our center from what she's going to be all on the drop off My for this, that's 0.16. Maybe we want to join up these two points, which is going to form my my front, um, front neck. So get your French curve again. It's got lots of different, you know, shaping. We want to do a nice curve that hits between number 15 and number 16. So get your ruler like that. So it hits through 0.15 and points 16 and then drawer. Really nice curve through there. That looks lovely. Nicely curve. Right. So we're going to start adding a little bit of shaping in here now. So across my line here, we're gonna plot in 0.17 on. We want tohave Arbus, Mitch, Bust, dart length. My bus start length is 10 centimeters. So we're going to divide that by two, which is five centimeters on. Then we will square across on here and find five cents meters. This is a slightly close fitting bodice block. If you wanted a little bit of Maury's in it, then just do a lesser amount through here, and it will just have a little bit less shaping over your bust. Or if again, if you want really fitted you, that would increase. But so which is kind of doing a semi fitted and bodies book said that becomes 0.17 eso. Now again, we want to try and put in are trying plotting our front arm hole. So, uh, - so we go to plot in our front arm hole now, um, So what we need is, um, half of our chest measurement, which is s o. My chest measurement is 4 34 So divide that by two, which minus 17 and I just want to add a little bit of ease in here. So I just add on one centimeter on, then. On top of this, we just add half of the measurement between these two points on those two points for me were five centimeters. So half of that is 2.5. It's an inch. So we just want to add on 2.5 onto this measurement on this has been going going to become 0.18. So we want to square across from 0.3 20.5 for me to find that measurement. So get that your Ruland go across 20.3. We'll need my measuring tape for this 20.3, and that is 0.18. So you want to try and put in the front of our arm hole Now? Eso What you want to do is square up from 18. Just go up a little bit down here on what you want is the half of 16 to 3. So half of this measurement lines about 17.5. So 17.5 divided by two, which is 8.75 on then. I just want to, um do you take off two centimeters from this. So you take two centimeters, which is 6.75 You square up from here. 6.75 Hopes on that is your 0.19 like that. Starting to should take shape now. So you want to try and find our bus point. So I want to find this is our bus line here on the front of the area of our bodies who want to try and find out Bus point. So it's half the measurement to between three and 18. So again, find the find the middle off. This point here mine again is roughly about 10.1. So, Mark that and that will become 0.20. But halfway between I want you want to do now this is going to create your dark will join up number 15 and 20 and 17. So we create a straight line all the way down here like that and then all the way down there like that on what you'll find is that they should be exactly the same measurement. And when we that will become this dark here this shoulder dot here. So when that is closed upon the bodies, they will become exactly the same measurement. Right now, we want to start kind of doing a bit of shaping on our on our arm hole. So from 0.11 square, down from here, about 1.5 centimeters. So just draw a right angle down here. Just dropped that 1.5 something like that and that become point 21 on, then with your ruler square across from here roughly about 20 to 15 centimeters to create 150.22. So just square, right, Right the way across there, about 15 centimeters that will become 0.22 and then using your ruler, we want to create the outside that this shoulder length from your off your front bodies. So my shoulder is 12 on like I did on the back. I just had a little bit of these. So added 1/2 a centimeter, so it would be exactly the same length as my back shoulder measurement. So from 0.17 we want to try and hit this line here on 2112.7 12.5 centimeters. So it marries up to the to the back. So get your zero on your ruler on 00.17 you want to try and hit that line there to try and hit it, Hit it on 12.5 centimeters. Can you see here? And that would then become my front arm hole measurement. And that will become 0.20 free. As you can see, it's starting to take shape now. And so, actually, we've got the front and the back bodies. We want to actually just find the side of the body so we can plot in our arm hole now. So the side of our bodies is halfway between 12 and 18. So again, find the middle of this. It mind about three centimeters. This will become 30.24 and square down from here all the way through, then your waist on, then again downwards to hit your hip and this will become you're side seem all the way down here. It doesn't look much at the moment. It doesn't look like you could see what it is at the moment, but there's a few key points in there that we're gonna just join up and that will become our arm hole. So those key points are number 11 number 14 number 24 number 19 a number 23 again looks slightly strange at the moment, but you'll see where I'm going with this. So we want Teoh make a really nice shape on. They don't have to hit through those points exactly on 14 and 19. But we what we do want to capture 11. 24 20 together, most important ones. But these are just a guide. This line here is really just a guy. This which is kind of shape off on them back. So get your French curve. Want to try and create a really nice shape for our arm hole here? So, um, get your French curve. We want to join up 11 to 14 festival and then 14 24 something like that. And you couldn't. This is a something that could be a worked in to make sure it's a really nice kind of smooth curve. We want to do the ship the same with the front, but the front a lot more curved. You've got that front arm that goes into your body, so it's a lot more shapely to get that the bone of your your shoulder that goes around the front. So we want to join in points 23 19 and four. So again, get your French curve here. And actually you can see where it wants to. Kind of join them all immediately. One of something through the just that that wants to be a nice curve under his. So you can work into that. It wants to be a really nice horseshoes horseshoe shape. Once you've got that kind of rough shape, you couldn't kind of work into that. Andi create a really nice shape. So artist draw over that so you can see that. And again, they don't have toe go into those points. Exactly that that number 14 or 19? It's rough guide. We just want to get a really nice of just make that look really beautiful. That, like that on the back arm hole, is always a lot straighter than the front, because again, you've got your room bone of the front off the shoulder that would sit into that on your back on. There was a lot, a lot straighter, and also your back shoulder line always sits again yet, but 1.5 centimeters above above your a front shoulder. Eso This is Yeah, this is your grid for your front and back bodies. Join me in the next listener. I'll be adding a bit a little bit more shaping into your bodies to make it fit a bit nicer , a bit closer. 4. 4 Adding darts and shaping to the sloper/block: Hi guys are Welcome back. I'm going toe Show you how to add in a bit of shaping into your block And you're Sloper just for a little bit. Mawr fit in the bodies. Just a recap on what we did before we've drafted out are our bodies Sloper front and back Working on just 1/2 form of the moment thing. This is quite easy fitting bodice brought. We've got no darts or suppression apart from our shoulder shoulder dot in our front bodies at the moment, which we need to go shape around the bust area. But we've got no, there's no shaping, actually, on the back, on the front of the bodies, like under the bus store around the waist or anything like that. This is just like an easy fitting bodies. But I want to create something like this on Dad in these darts here that would just make it a little bit more over nicer silhouette on. Add a little bit more shaping through your waistline. Eso I'm just gonna move out the way. I'm also going to show you actually, how to pivot from the shoulder. Dart into the bus stop there to create your, um, block that we will be working on for the rest off the courses. Okay, so what you want to do is we're gonna just add a little bit of shaping into the back. Um, backboard is first of all, we want to find the point halfway between two on 12. So get your ruler and find the point. Halfway through this point, minds approximately 9.2. Again. Don't forget, I'm working on a UK size 10 grid here. Approximate measurements, but these can be customized to your own measurements or your clients measurements. Or if you've got slightly longer body things like that, these air or measurement that you complete into this grid and they should all, you know, be relevant. So find yet this point in between two on 12 and what you want to do is square down through here hitting your waist on your hip and on your waist. This is where you want the shaping cause it your waist does get a little bit smaller again . I'm working on ah size UK size 10 again. These measurements will very if you've got a bigger way smaller waist, these dots will get bigger or smaller, depending on the size of your waist. But these are just done. Approximate measurements. Um, so I'm going to just create a dark here. A fish dark. They're called S O on this waste. I'm gonna find the middle of this point here on going going outwards. 1.5 either side of this and then my dot end or where might wear my bottom area here, which he will be roughly around here. We're going to square down from the center of this line about 15 centimeters, and all of a sudden you can see four points there that are going to join up on that will become my back dark. Doesn't that look lovely on these dark These lines These want this one here and here, down to the waste from my bust area. This on. These should be all need to be exactly the same length as do these ones here, this one to the waist from this point here because when they are closed up or stitched together, they need to be exactly the same length. So that that this line here on these points need to be exactly symmetrical. And now we're gonna add a little bit of shaping into our front again. So it comes from the bust down here through our waste as our body gets a little bit smaller from our bus down. So get your bus point, which is here. This is my bus point. We're gonna square down from my bust here using this particles hit to go through and hit your waist and then, like we did from the back, squaring down at a right angle free fruit through your waist. Sorry. And your hip, right? And again, like we did for the backdoor, we're going to go out either side off my waist here, roughly about 1.5 centimeters each side to the total amount of dark or suppression I'm taking in here is about three cm. And then on my front s Oh, we've got a little bit less shaping on the front of your bodies to your back where your back has your bottom. So it's a little bit. You need a bit more room through here. Your front You can go a little bit longer in your dark, so I often go about 17 centimeters down like a long dart. It just makes a really nice shape, and then you can join the's points up here exactly as we did full the back bodies. And again, these points here from your waist up to a bus point. These lines need to be exactly the same length as do these ones from the waist down to this point here. Eso When they're stitched up, they are exactly the same length. So now what we want to dio I mean, you can leave it like this if you want again. This is a beautifully a lovely shaped bodies again. You can cut this out and make this up and see if it fits you and play around with it. But what I'm gonna do, I'm just gonna add a little bit of shaping through the side so that my body's looks my body's block as Sloper looks something like this. So we've got a little bit of definition here in the waist. So find the side seam, which is from 0.24 running all the way down here and then on the back square through this point, using your ruler going to go out on the back line 1.5 centimeters than on the front going to go out two centimeters on. Go down to your hip here on the east side of your hip again on this is measurements that I'm using as a rough guesstimate for UK size 10. But if you've got bigger or smaller hips, these measurements could be varied. Um, I'm going to go out 2.5 centimeters each side of my side. Seem that doesn't really look like much of the moon. You're probably thinking, what are those points here? But I'll show you the trick now. So from 0.24 down onto your waist, you want to add your straight lines there. Now cut. Now comes the fun part. Get your French curve. I want to add a really nice curve, but we're not going to join that point to that one. We're actually in a joint in that point and cross it over to that one. So we'll get your French curve and put really nice. We want to hit these two points here in here. So you see this nice shaping on here. So put those that ruler would draw that they would do exactly the same the other way around . Flip your ruler over on again. We want a really nice shape on here. This will create the shaping over your hip, huh? Look what happens. So I just highlight this in another color for you. Get my highlighters. This actually Now this pink line now becomes your front codus. And then in my yellow line becomes my back bodice. And you see here I've got my back hip width, and then my front from the pink to my center front hit with on there is a beautiful front and back bodice on Sloper. So what? After this, just go through. Just check your your waist measurements and check it back to your cost. Your client or your own bodies measurements or something like that on. Then again, check your hip measurement. You're your hip across here, and then your hip measurement here. And if you've got a smaller or here poor, big, bigger hit, then these lines can move outwards in words. You know, this This is all kind of more of a design thing and a thing that you can customize. Now what? I told you earlier, I was going to actually tell you how to swing the dark from my shoulder dart into my bus stop. And I'm just going to show you that really, really quickly. I have to actually just cut up into this grid. You can leave it like this. By all means. Work with your bodies like this. It's absolutely fine. But the block or Sloper I like to work with, I actually use with a bus start. There's no right or wrong. It's just a preference thing. So what? I'm gonna do it. I'm just gonna draw a bust, are into my my block here. So this is my boss point on again. A buster. A dark. It really is a point of design. Really? There's no right or wrong. I'm just going to do mine. Abduct two centimeters or 2.5, actually, centimeters down from my underarm point, which is here. Just mark a line down onto your underarm mark. What you can do actually is traced these off individually so that you're not going to, you know, because obviously we've got these overlapping each other. The best thing to do now is to trace these off individually so that you've got your front on your back and you can always put these on to card afterwards. These air some I've made before onto card thes thes my blocks here that had a lot of wear in them. But I put them onto card afterwards just to show you and to get a lot off, you know, durability out of them. But anyway, I'm just gonna fact where iwas draw in my bus. Start here from my point all the way down here on ideally, what you would have liked to have done is traced that off. But I'm just going to cut Look up. That line here is my front bodice. Imagine I've already traced off. Let's move on, then. What you want to do is just cut down that line. The gonna cut this piece of paper, come down there and then I'm just What I want to do is I want to close up my shoulder. This is only a point of preference. You don't have to do this, but the block that I use for my courses after it has a a bus stop in it. So I just want to clothe. Just cut along here. Let's just move this one, okay? Give me that one aside, and then I want to just close up. Just what we had was that and I drew in my bust dart here, but my shoulder here, I just want to cut up there, cut down there, make sure that they the bus point is always joined. So this could move around. So just close up this one. Here, you'll see that number 17 and 15 joined together, which has been put a bit of tape on there like this. Put a bit of masking textures close up. That that And there you have. I've opened up my m, my bus start there, and that will be the shape of the bodies brought that I'll be working into going forward. But again, you don't have Teoh put this buster and you can leave it at the shoulder. Dar. But just so that you're familiar with the block that I'll be using in my courses later on. That is the bus stop that I've developed into my block in my Sloper. I hope you enjoyed this class. Andi, join me for more courses. Thank you. 5. 5 Outlining sloper/block onto mannequin: hi and welcome to my course. I'm going to be marking onto the mannequin, the outline off the block or the Sloper. And it really is just the basic guys to the body form the shoulder line, the arm hole. It really is just the almost like a second skin, if you like, will be creating that. That shape on this is a standard size eight mannequin. So I'm just gonna be using this mannequin is my guide. If you wanted to do it for your own body measurements, what you can do is almost, like pad out a mannequin to your measurements on work on top of that, and that's quite a good way of getting like a near, like, accurate body shape. But I'm just gonna be doing this is a UK standard size a transferring that flat so you can kind of use that away and that system of doing things to then customize it to your own measurements. So I've got this tailoring tape, but if you again, if you don't have this, you can use your ordinary ribbon and pin it on. Onda launches pin it. You know where we're going to mark Mark this and put it on with pins. So just cut yourself off a little bit and we just want to mark on. First of all, the centre front line on the centre front is the exact symmetrical Centrepoint off your body on a lot of manikins do have a seem actually running down the centre front if you don't, it really is just that exact middle point on day 1/2 off the mannequin, which is going to take this along the way down like this. Just stick it on. And this with the block, we just work on 1/2. I work classically on the right half. Sorry, the left half of the body if you're wearing the government because I'm right handed so it's easy for me to just work on this side. I just find it easier when it's flat. I could just work onto the right side of the body with my right hand on the left side of the body. If you're wearing it, eso just make sure that's on nice on a tight. Just go all the way down to the bottom of the mannequin. And then what we're going to do is gonna dio go all the way down the other side. On on the back side, I'm actually going to work again onto the left side of the body. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna be creating just 1/2 off the body on what you'll find with this center front or center back line that once you've got that flat out on paper and you mirror that over, it will become a complete replica. So instead of trying to get both sides looking symmetrical, just concentrate on getting 1/2 of it absolutely perfect. And then it's just a mirror image. And then that will be your your perfect. You're perfect. Him fit. So make sure that's all the way down. Make sure that's all the way I'm going right up to the top of the neck There. Go all the way down, put a little bit more on the bottom that you see continues down there just a little bit down there to make sure it's on nice and solid so that your center back line and your center front line marked on really, really clear, because what we're gonna do later on his put the calico and muslin over the top of those who is quite good. You can see the markings through that. So then what will do also is mark the shoulder line again, A lot off the mannequins like this thes undress for mannequins. Not your your display mannequins. They often have a shoulder seam line, so you can use that as your guide. And that's pretty accurate is basically your shoulder seam guide. There you can on the other one if it hasn't got one already. Minds got a nice ribbon around it, but it's quite hard to see what you put fabric over. It is marking on the waistline on this, for a UK size is roughly about 42 centimeters from what we call the hate SP, which is the higher shoulder point. And it is that bit where the neck joins to the shoulder that that that top it right in your your nook. There, on def. You measure that down roughly 42. The other way you confined your waist is if you just put your hands on your waistline like that and you can just find your natural waistline, and that's like they're always like the smallest What not for some people, smallest part of your body. So you want to kind of just find that line? I've I've got a handy guide here. I've got a ribbon on my mannequin, so that will help guide me. But again, you could make your block and then make it up. And if it's, you know, if you need a little bit longer in the body, can also always lengthen this. But this is just, you know, trying to find that, you know, basic guide. And then what we want to do is find our bust point on again for a UK size eight from your higher shoulder point down to your bus point, it's roughly very loosely. If you're nice and perky about 26 cm eso What we'll do is we'll try and find that measurement will go right from the top. The whole issue. How should point and go down here? We've got a slightly higher bus point on this mannequin, but yep, it's about 25.5 cm. Was quite a good measurement. Just put a pin in there or something like that, and then we can just put a bit of tape on there afterwards. again because we're going to be putting color cover over this. So it's quite good to just be able to just see that mark underneath the calico what they get. Just put that on that. Like that, you guys, quite a good point. You get something like that on. Then again, let's just mark around the neck line because once we've covered that up with fabric, it's hard to see where the actual increase of the neckline is. So again, which is creating a really basic shell off the bodies that later on you can then minute play into a V neck or something. So it really is kind of like there the second skin off your your body, if you like. So again, I'm using the crease of my mannequin just to go around here to get a nice look like curve on that and again, we're just using 1/2 of the mannequin, so just make sure you've just got this 1/2 looking really nicely. Take that around to the back there, and then we'll go right up to the top where that joins the center back, and then that will become the back of my neck line on that point there, which is that highest point, which is really that kind of bubbly. Bit of the back of your neck that's called your name Onda again from this measurement here , from your nape to your waist again on a standard size eight is roughly about anything between about 40 and 41 centimeters as just a rough guide just so that we know what we're working to here. Okay? And then the last measurement that I'm just going to do or the last tape. So he should I say, Where is she going to create a bit of an arm hole as to cut yourself off another little bit of tape on, We'll go out off the go out on the shoulder about yeah, about 12. 12 centimeters is quite a good measurement. 18. This really is the kind of the tip off your shoulder on that, Really? Is that that long length from your hate? Just hear your how your shoulder point right away along that line to the outside of your shoulder. Again. This is a standard size eight measurements on going with, so this could be, you know, tweeting custom on Then the side of your body is up to, you know, like a nice fitting sleeve or tight fitting sleep. Should I say from the waist upwards is a roughly about 18 c m. Something like that. Again, these measurements are all you know, standard size eight measurements over of a basic, very basic mannequin. So again, if you've got sure order your long body, you can add a bit more length in here, or and you can always do that afterwards. So which is mark on those two points where we've got the shoulder on. We've gone up the side seam, which this is the side seam running all the way down your body up to where we think a nice fitting under arm hole is. Excuse me and they get your tape and starting from the top or the bottom, whichever seizures go in just a little bit in from your from your your mannequin arm hole. What? What? What we're aiming to get here is a really nice curve, A nice scoop under the front arm hole on. When you look at it on the side, it should look like a really nice kind of horseshoe shape. So I'm gonna just minute plate that round. Take that penthouse. We'll go back up on the back. Armholes should be quite straight. The front. You've got a bit of movement in your front. So you want to kind of You've got your you know, your the ball of your shoulder socket. So you you need it quite a nice curved under here. But you're back home. How you can keep quite straight. So it should look quite a nice kind of curved arm. Hold on the front. And almost and quite straight, really On up the back. I mean, not no part of your body is straight, but it's a lot kind of straighter than the front one. So you can see there where you got that nice, you know, dipped curve under your front or where you're the ball of your arm hole would be. And then it goes right up to the back. Here on that is the basic outline off your off your block. So in the next lesson, I'm going to show you how to drape the color. Come over this on then. Andi, take the block a bit further. Thank you. 6. 6 Draping the sloper with fabric part 1: Hi. Welcome back. Today we're going to drape this slope it onto the mannequin, using the markings that we just put on the mannequin from the listen before. So if you just hadn't haven't seen that, go back and see what I did on that one s o get yourself. Ah, a sorry about this size, I'd say. What was this? Something like 30 inches by 25. Something really roughly. Like that. Cut it right down. If you just do a nip in that, you could just tear it right off on. Find the salvage, which is basically the edge of the fabric on that is us should hopefully be a straight line for you. It will be a really good guide. Just start off with and so get Get that we're going to just make sure it is your block Does start on that grain, cause if you start twisting off you was stretch it and get it all out of place, and it goes a bit wobbly, so make sure your block or you, where we're starting from is gonna be down. That selfish that you were gonna become your center front line and you're sent back line eso We're going to start by just laying that basically leave a little bit on the edge because we we need it to roll up onto the shoulder there. So just leave a few inches above the neckline just for it. Teoh creep over the shoulder there and start, which is pinning this right the way down, you mannequin. Right the way down a mannequin down the centre front line down that tape the you pinned earlier in the other lesson. Or if you don't have this tape, you can put the ribbon. Like I said, just tape on ribbon doesn't have to be sticky if you just get yourself some ribbon with Cem Simpkins market all the way down like that and what we're gonna do, make sure is nice and flat gonna creep it up and round. Make sure that it's nice and flat. We're gonna work from the top down, so just make sure that is nice and flat over the shoulder we're gonna do is just pin again that over there and you'll find your shoulder line as well that you marked earlier. So you can see through that to see where the fabric it's such as Mark that a couple of ah, a little bit short off the shoulder to so you can see where that line is. What I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna cut into that neckline. Just cut, Cut that aways. We don't need that anymore. And it's stopping that that nice curve around that neckline. So just give it a few little nips and just make sure that is that Got a really nice kurban that you can always just change those a little bit just to get that nice. So that's a really nice kind of flat shape there. And what will mark on that later? Exactly where that neckline sits in the shoulder line and everything were just concentrating. Now on just getting really nice shape. You can see my bus point there through the through the calico. So what I'm gonna do and, Doug, I will get rid of all the all of this excess in a minute. So we want to try and just one more 10 in down the front just to stop it flipping up. So we want to always try and keep this parallel to the centre front. We don't want it twisting or for anything. So get your This is Bill your hip area for one of kind of smoothed that over to the hip. So that will become then your, um your hip measurement on. Like I said, this is a really, like a second skin off this mannequin eso When this is made up, eventually this wolf should fit like a glove. But of course, we don't want all of our garments fitting like a glove. We want a little bit of these, So this really is just, like the kind of almost like the skin. If you like eso, you need to kind of add a little bit of movement when you're doing pattern cutting a little bit more room a little bit one movement, and I'll show you that along the way. But this is really just to kind of get your basic outline off your body, Um, and then what you want to do? You got this A little bit of excess here where your where your shoulder point in your hip point. You've got a kind of bit of bagging us here on. This is where it kind of creeps around the bust area here So we want. We want to create this really nice, like bust dark And what is cut away a little bit around the arm so you can just see what's kind of going on. They'll just take a little bit of this extra fabric off the back here, get rid of all of that. So yeah, we've got this a bit, A bit of extra fabric here. That's just, you know, this measurement here that we want to try and get rid off. It will give us a really nice shape around the bust. So you want Teoh pinch it in a little bit. You'll see it naturally wanting Teoh, you know, get a nice bit of shaping and that that would become quite taught there. So give that a pinch. Maybe about one. Ensure three centimeters under your arm hole measurement something like that and just pop a pin in there, something like that. So it looks like that So that is really, like, the shortest distance it really could bay. And then we can pin that rounds down and what I'll do again is, But I'm just gonna cut through there and doing these little cuts. It just releases that tension around the arm hole, and it just makes for a softer curves, you know, Don't don't pull it. I don't Don't give it too much of a talker. You don't want to start distorting it. But it would just give you that really nice kind of curve around that body there. Can you see how that's now starting to form into a really nice like bus shape? So just pop opinion aside exactly down the side seam there. So you get that nice measurement and then you can see we've got a bit of shaping now, starting to wanting to fall. Naturally, you see my bus point there. That's where you almost your widest point off your chest will be. And so if you just put a few pins in through that point there, don't worry about this looking quite baggy at the moment. We'll show you what to do with that. But that's where you almost want the end of your dark to form. So you want in an exact it straight line all the way down from your side. Seem all the way to that bus point. There another panic. Pola in there so good pit in that all the way to the end, not tell you why we're not gonna go right up to that bus point in a minute. Well, we don't want it starting looking like Madonna, so we'll just drop it back on. And then we want to create really nice shape under the Buster's. Well, we want to get rid of this fullness here. So what we'll do is yet again using this Boss point is a guide. We want a kind of scoop under here just to get that nice shape. Because of the side, it looks a bit full. Eso you want to kind of get rid of all of that? I just put another pins and their just cause it's coming a little loose. So if you grab the excess fabric underneath that boss point there, we want to go vertically down one to go right the way down. You know, if you imagine your center front line all the way over you want to imagine that going vertically, way down could pinch that. Oops. Sorry. Pins in my mouth. Don't do that. The pinch all the way down here on roughly again on the UK Standard size A from the centre front to where I normally would start. My vertical dark is anything between about eight or seven centimeters. So if you measure eight or seven centimeters over there where it comes to here, and then I start pinching from there and that you see that that we're giving me a nice shape now on the site is getting rid of all of that extra volume on the side. And you see, now we're starting to get a little bit of shaping through there. It's going to curve right the way through there. So you want to get the fabric manipulated with your hands a bit and then pin along the way up, gonna really pin up in and you want to go all the way up, hit two under the bus there. We're gonna just drop your points about centimeter back from your bus. Point it just so that they don't end up really the harsh point in the front. You don't start ending up looking like really pointy. So you just want to drop your points back from down and one to the side, away from your the bus point then so just put a few more pins into the side seam just so that this doesn't start bouncing back and then just create a bit of tension and then again making sure it's quite straight down, symmetrical or parallel. Sorry to the centre front. You will still get a little bit of excess there just to shape over the top of the hip there . So just go down in a straight line from there to put another pin in that stuff it something like that, and you can really go shaped or is not as you want on the from. I tend to create quite a long dark on the front, because it just gives me a bit more shape. But if you want something a bit more loose, you don't have to go down quite as far as that. But the longer you go, the kind of the lest of all volume you get as you can see you going to go a little bit of a pocket of volume. There, I'm so I kind of tried to go something like 17 C 17 centimeters down on the front hair and then just get rid of some of that and access. They're gonna pull that aside. So you can really, like, you know, play around with this and kind of get it really smooth looking over the hip. And then we just put one, though, put one more pin and like that and that will pay, you know, really nice shape over the front. You can see if I took that away. If I always cut that off, I've got really nice, you know, second skin shape on the side there. And that's really nice fitting over there like that. Then you can see the arm hole is gonna cut away a little bit on. What we'll do is we'll repeat exactly the same on the back, so get, you know, get yourself another bit of calico. Something a bit like this will cut down again on. Then we will, um, get, um um I actually need some more pins. I've run out of pins, which isn't great. Eso if my assistant could go and get me some more pins, that would be great. 7. 7 Draping the sloper with fabric part 2: Hey. So I got my plans now so we can continue. Sorry about that. S so what we want to do here. Yeah, just as many pins you can get. Yeah, make sure they're all secure in. Make sure this front body is also cure. Just cut off. Don't cut right on the line. But just cut off a little bit of this excess we don't need or of this extra fabric flapping about. We want to now drape on the back bodies. Such is roughly cut around. All of these little gnarly bits doesn't have to be perfect because what we'll do after it is mark on with a pen exactly on the lines and get that. But we just don't want all these big flappy bits hanging around cause it just gets in everybody's way. And then we can't see what's happening with the back. So just do a rough cut, get rid of all of the's little bits, and that's as often I think I was looking pretty good, actually quite happy with that. Okay, so get your next bit of calico again. Make sure you've got the straight grain going down there and it is the toughest bit of the fabric as well. So get that exactly on your center back, we're gonna again work on just this half of the body, so we've almost creating just like a half off your your form aan den. Obviously, in time it will create the whole form. And if you just put it on your center front and center back line and then eventually draft out your pattern on, then fold it over. It should be completely symmetrical. So you get a really good symmetrical body eso again. Just leave a little bit of extra at the top cause we're gonna just creep that over to the shoulder. So pin that on, leave a looker an inch or so at the top of the mannequin on pin all the way down your center back line. Put as many pins in as you want. Um, well, the way down like this, Just follow that guide over the way and your backs quite shaped as well. You've got your you know, your bottom and your back curves. And so you're back also needs, you know, shaping it in a doctor's where it's not all or flat. So mark that all the way over and again we're going to do. A similar thing will start from the top down. Andi substances creep over the shoulder there and it'll marry up then with your front shoulder. And you're about to see the shoulder line through. You know, the fabric. Um, you know what just means that panda looks a little bit yet you can see then through, um, on your calico, Um, where you marked on the front. So just put a few pins in the back there. Some people like to put ah next shoulder in Soria neck Daren here to create a bit of shaping. But for your basic block, I think it's fine to do it like this. Every later on, we can start adding a little bit of shape. If you have a center back seen in some dresses, you can always creep that in a little bit and create get a little bit of shaping over there . But which is gonna do the real real basics for now? So that is something that we cannot add on afterwards. So at the moment, just do the same as the front is create that over to the shoulder just gonna nick in. You know, the back neck here. It's a few deep dips just about centimeter away from your actual neck line so that it's just kind of, you know, curves over. Don't pull it too much to make sure is nice and smooth. And again, we're gonna just get, um, a really nice arm, whole shape. We don't want to be yanking the fabric up like this or doing anything we want to always try and, you know, keep it always like the grain line. So it's running, you know, horizontally to the ground and parallel, you know, with the centre front and center back line. So it just kind of softly scoop that that fabric over like that and you'll find that your will start getting like a nice arm whole line again. You might need to manipulate some of the the shaping that you've already putting up here. You'll soon find what the fabric naturally wants to do. Once you start kind of playing around with it, understand? So what is put a pin in that mannequin under the arm like that that will go on to my side, seem just gonna cut some of this excess away. So we don't need full of this once, you know, the width roughly of your you know, body. I know that I'm not gonna need anything past my half body. So it just kind of put a pin in to my, um, side, See where it meets up with my mom with my front bodies under there under my arm. I was gonna again cut that away a bit inside that just so I can see it was going on. And just so it doesn't think No, it doesn't pull from my top shoulders. We just cut to a couple of its own edges to release that a little bit. You go just to that gets a smooth line under there and again, keeping it all very, you know, we want to keep that grain line running parallel to the floor and symmetrical. Sorry. Exactly part like, you know, parallel with my center back line off my bottom. So we don't want to pull up like this or Yankee down at this. We want to keep that grain line. And that grain, I'm completely, you know, on a grid and go completely left to right on that. So we'll pull that over and just naturally kind of go where that wants toe be pinned on the side. Semen just joined up with the front bodies down there. Something like that, and you can see again. We've got all this kind of excess, But don't worry. We're going to get rid of that into a dark in a minute so you can see where that's kind of naturally wanting to sit. But yet, as you can see, we want a bit of shaping in the back because we want to create our second skin. So again very similar to the front from the centre back outwards. Again, this is a UK standard size eight. Um, we go roughly about seven cm, which is there, and that's where you can start kind of gathering your fabrica much has put another one in the back just so you don't stop, you know, distorting your center back. Seem there. That's where you can start kind of grabbing your fabric and you can see where it wants to. Then start kind of pulling and naturally wanting to go into the side like that. If you did a smaller dark, you still get this quite baggy. So you wanna get a quite a handful on a again. It could be quite a deep, dark something like to anything between two and four CMS. It depends how much you want to shape your body on. Then you can see that that naturally wants to then fall into place there so that want, you know that is shaping into the side. So we'll stick a few pins in there again. Your waist is the smallest part of your body, or it certainly is on this Monica in any way. Eso is a good guide to start with to to get that that widest point if you like, and then it kind of shapes a little bit up to there. So again, try and keep it quite a nice, you know, kind of parallel line with your center back. Give it a nice bit of shaping. It could go out with a little bit at the top. That's quite nice, and I talk. I do do a long dark as well for the back, and I just find it gives it quite a nice shape by sometimes guided roughly with the underarm line, because that's where your shoulder blade, then that would fill out that gap much like your busters on the front. Your shoulder blade fills the back of that out, so it kind of needs shaping up until that point. So just put a few bits, a few pins in there and your back bum bottom dot That would actually be a bit shorter on this is because your bottom is a lot fuller than your front. Your front. You'll tend to be a little bit flatter than your bum. Traditionally, I suppose, on on this mannequin, certainly so you can tell that you conceal it, that it's starting toe flatter now a lot more higher up than the front. The front door is coming a lot lower than the back, and that's because it's just naturally wanting. Teoh kind of then start, you know, flattening out. Or, you know, the shaping is a lot more acute on your bottom. To get that, like on that shaping there so you'll find a your your bottom. You'll have a lot more or your back, so it will have a lot shorter dart. But again, the longer you go with the dark, the lest amount of volume and pocket you have here. So I kind of tend to go something like very roughly. And I do long dark night like a long dark. So I like a nice fit about 15 centimeters down from my waistline there. So that is roughly, you know, on this point here. So we can just You can't That's the end of my don't and you can just see yeah, exactly where that's wanting to sit, and so you can see where all of my extra fabric it's all gone into my dark hair and eventually that that will disappear in your block and I'll show you how to do it on the pattern. But eventually that will be shaping on. I'll actually go inside the body so you won't get that flapping around. You won't get this and this and that or go inside and you just get this really nice shaped curve. So that then just put a few pins down your side. Same. And it should marry up exactly where your front is. Will mark all of this on in the next lesson. A system What a few pins there, marking that whole on the and again making sure the front in the back, They will marry together. This should be a nice I have. Don't pull it too hard. Like a saber. It does need to be snug. Um, this is just to get you know, your really basic outline off your off your block, your Sloper. Then go down to the bottom of the mannequin on the widest part. Really? Off your bottom area is again about 20 centimeters down from your waist, which is here, that that kind of is your where your bottom is is that is why this point of your or your low hip, if you like. And that's kind of like the the widest point off off the female. Um, so then after that, it kind of like tapers Often you can just that's the most important. But, you know, like this area here and then from your hips down, it's often kind of quite a straight measurement. So that this, you know, from here down, you know, we know it's gonna be a little bit more straightforward to cut cut off again All these little dangly bits again. Don't go right up to the the line because we wanna still know where we're going, which is cough anything that's kind of interfering you a little bit. Just get rid of you know, the shoulder. It is this and there you have it. So we have now draped our very own front and back Sloper and Half Board is I think that looks pretty good day new. I'll show you how to mark on all of these and put them onto paper in the next lesson. Thank you. 8. 8 Marking up your fabric sloper PART 1: Hey, guys, Welcome back. I'm now going to mark on to our lovely draped on Sloper. I'm gonna do with the marking so that when we take the fabric off the mannequin and transfer it onto paper, you get all the lines that were on the mannequin onto the paper, and you can transfer this really easily. So grab your Sharpie. Or, um, I also you can use chalk, but the chalk won't really show up on this muscle in, so I'm just gonna go for good old fashioned marker pen. And so we already have our center front line andare center back line because we already know that this is where it's sitting on the mannequin. So we don't need to worry about that, but really, really important ones. And this is the key one. We want to measure mark on where are wasted. So you can see hopefully see your ribbon or your tape through that muslim. Do you want to mark a way through it like that? Don't worry about this bit for now. Because when this gets closed up, this will form. You know that that waistline so this will all disappear and then you want to transfer it onto the back as well and go through your dark and go right through the back there, right the way like that. And we know that. And you can mark onto this this this nobody else will see this. This is just like a really, you know, rough pope prototype. So you can, you know, put on a little markings. This is W L. This is for my waistline. So I know when I've taken that off onto the flat. I know that that's where my waistline is. Eso The next thing we can do is mark on our neckline, Which again you can see the ribbon through the tape all the way through. Go away the way around to the back. A markham to your center back. So right on here, This is my center back CB four center back. And then this one we shall write C f for your center front. And so we always know when that's no again. When the fabrics been taken off, we know. What is that? Which is the front to the back. So mark on your shoulder as well. So you want to just You will be able to see through where this uses flight, that up in your bear to see where that front shoulder line is There are just marked the edge of your shoulder on the back, one as well. You can always if you're unsure of where they said, you can always put a little, you know, Mark on it. You know, just a little balance marches to indicate you know, where the front and the back join up just so that you know exactly where they sit. And then again, mark around your front arm, hole says again, looking through. And you can see my dotted line underneath where I put my tailoring tape earlier, right the way around again. This is why we not bothered about these flappy bits, because these are all going to disappear and we're just concentrating on our solid line. So this line that we're drawing is almost like the the stitch line. It's got not got any more or any less. It really is the kind of the outline shell you know, after that, once we've got that shell shape, that's then what we can start working into. Four are pattern and dark manipulation and then adding will seem announce on and everything after that. So again, we got our back home hole on just again to make sure we know which is the front in the back . If we you know, we don't write on the back or anything, we just put on a double notch here, number one Sorry. Two notches is always indicating for the back On one notch is always for the from and that is quite universal on again. Once you take that off, you'll know which one's the front, which was the back. If you can't read of writing or anything like that, your pen marks disappeared. You know that thes markings The one is for the front and two is always for the back. So mark down your side seem Just feel what you're so seniors will see See where it is through there And you can always mark on where this dark point will finishes Well onto your back tress again So you know where that join will be after it stitched up So Mark all the way down just might show you don't get the pins in the way Mark over the pins away down here. You can again, Phil, where this is going to be doesn't have to be a work of art or anything like that. But just make sure, you know, you get quite a good marking down there and again repeat. This is just I mean, if get rid of that bit, flood that up there, just Marco the way down. And you can just see where that the back world joined the front for all the way down him right in that that creased they will the way. 9. 9 Marking up your fabric sloper PART 2: Onda. As I said in my earlier session, the widest part off your body is the low hit, which is roughly about 20 centimeters down from your your waistline. So I always like to measure on my hip as well, because it was quite a good guide. If you're then lengthening skirts or bodice is or anything like that, you know, like the hip point always needs to be a certain measurement, and then you can work downwards from there or upwards from there. So I always like to see. So that's my 20 cm mark on. I just put little marks all the way around there, just so I know, and you can eventually join up. Those marks afterwards was gonna put 20 CME downwards all the way down. Also, 20 seems quite good measurement to know if you're making a dress or top or anything. You know that comes from the has a waistline raising at that. A zip or a zipper is always it needs to at least be 20 centimeters down from if you've got a dress that has a zip up the back it if you finish it at 20 centimeters down or a skirt if you finish it to understand two meters down from the waistline, that's a really good guide, because again, your bottom needs to get into that garment. So it's the widest part of your body for that government to be our to get on. So having an opening, at least for a zipper or bottoms or anything at least two that measurement it's golden because then you can't leave. You can actually get your garments on. And there's so many times that I have come up with patterns were seeing patterns that don't just, you know, the government's been ruined just because there's it has not been, you know long enough for nobody can put it on. So just having that measurement in your head just isn't quite a nice guide to know That's the funniest part of your body. So that's quite a nice one. And you could just right again on that pit hip on your top. Hit is around 10 centimeters down, so you can always Markelis on as well. This is quite a good make a good measurement tohave, and if it taught fitting garments or again, fuel block. If you're doing quiet, inaccurate block this is quite a nice want, er tohave again. If you're doing a course, it or anything like that or a bust, you and you want it. You're very, very close fitting and snug. You can get very good measurements marking that on. Let's go all the way around. Okay, Don't worry about that. So that you could mark as your top him. You got it on the back as well. You guys take taking shape. Does this look familiar? Okay, So what we need to do last and not least, is Mark on the dots because we want to know after we've taken all these pins out. What? What's the shape you're going to be like under our bus? So again, about centimeter down from your boss boy, which is there? Which is quite a good point to Mark, Actually, if you are getting confused with little lines going on can always use different color pens to indicate the front on the back. If you work easily like that if you're, um if you need to know, yes. If it's clearer for you, I'm quite I love working with different color. Pens have always got a 1,000,000 off the mom on because I just You know, if I'm marrying up the front of the back, I want to know you know which color Go to that which so it always have a stack of pens around with you. It's always very handy if you're getting yourself confused. Such is marked down here again. Just short off the bus point here. You know this the inside or one cider, if you like off the the dark here, you would find it goes from nothing to a deep curve and then again, it because kind of marries down to nothing and do exactly the same on the other side Boobs . There goes Mark a pen again. It doesn't have to be a work of art, cause after we've transferred this onto paper, that's when we kind of started feeling it all up and making sure, you know, we got straight lines and everything marries up and again to show off the bus point here. Just go. Well, we've pinned Mark on the top of that pin line there. That's the end where it married up with the back. Do you remember on then just flat the up for screws up penned on then what? And then we'll mark on the inside of the dark as well on the underneath. Vega. Just mark that one there. Put that back in. Yes, I know what that is on. Then again, same with the back. So it kind of goes to nothing around about here. Well, Mark on this back targeting a lovely curve into the back and then ends cheers at the top of their you can see, like, over saying the front is a lot lower than the back because it's the fullest. You know, it's a lot fuller here, so it wants to kind of almost spread out the fabric a lot more like, higher up. So you create, you know, a lot more volumes going on around here and then just mark down the other side off that, uh here and then again, marry that up to nothing. So I think you pretty much got yourself a lovely marked up slope of there. I think it's pretty good. So make sure you've got all your markings on it, right on it. Anything you like again? The most important thing is this centre back on the center from I always make sure these are on this center front grain. And that should run right down parallel to the to the selvage of the fabric on That's the straight grain running from on back, which just mark that on there again. Weaken. Make sure all of this is completely, you know, up to scratch on paper. And I'll show you how to transfer that on paper in the next. Listen. Thank you. 10. 10 Removing sloper from mannequin: Hey, guys, Welcome back. I'm going to now remove the draped Sloper from the mannequin, almost going to do a reverse of what we did earlier on because quite literally, un pin all the pins, making sure you don't drop any on also making sure you on pin all the darts as well. You basically want to get this now from its three D form completely flat a game and you'll see it starting Teoh take shape. It's quite exciting, actually. Once you get this shape and see it flat and you'll really start understand, then once we've got this kind of very basic bodies form what you can do with it. This really is, You know, the outline of your body with his arm hole neckline and everything. And from this, well, you can do anything. And that's what my lessons are all about is showing you what you can now do with your basic shape. And that is roughly what your back bodies should look like. Doesn't that look good? And this is one of this is one I made earlier off my my card on Uh, yeah, it doesn't look that far away from it. This is my size eight block look. Check that out. It's pretty good, isn't it? With my double notch. And then, um, I'll take the front off. Just own pin everything we take Julia, make sure the Pinza I try not to drop any on this funny shaped looking dark. That kind of goes from nothing wide and then down to nothing. Again, this is actually called a fish. I suppose it's because it's shaped like a fish, who knows? So these are funny shaped darts that go in and out and then in again of fish starts, and then this one on the front of the bodies, just this one here, this is this would then recalled the the bus start. And that's the one that gives you the shaping on the dark of the bust. On that, my friends, is your front and your back body so that it looks pretty good. So I'll show you in the next. Listen, how to transfer that, then onto paper. Thank you 11. 11 Transfering the sloper onto paper part 1: Hey, guys, Welcome back on. We are now going to be transferring the calico or fabric Sloper onto paper eso. Earlier, we un pinned everything. Just make sure it's nice and flat. This is now my front on my back, and you can see I've got my straight fabric line of migraine line going right the way down in the front. We're gonna make almost kind of like a grid with these, So we're gonna kind of draft the out. I'm so you've got this. You know, we've got your center front center back line, your waistline going across and your hip line going across there looking pretty good. Okay, So what we want to start doing, Get yourself in, swat across paper on. Then we will draw all the way down one of the marks if you haven't got spot across plain paper tissue paper, tracing paper, anything to get your hands on. So just drop your your front and your back. That's gonna be our central line, which is gonna work on 1/2 of each garment and then roughly work out where your waistline, you know, is gonna kind of fall. So my waistline, you know, I'm gonna go right across a right angle to my center line, Chester after right across that line there and that will become my waistline. And you can just mark that on what you can use. Mark that on there. If you could mark your center front that cf the center front C B for centre back. You can see that. So we want to just place the waistline onto the paper. You can weigh it down. We just put a couple of pins in here just so it doesn't shift anywhere, that's better. And then put that one up that, like I just make sure it's not going to move around, is what we're gonna do is just trace around these lives and just, you know, flatten that out a bit. Make sure you got you know, that's when I seen flat and come down here. Make sure that's still on your center front line. We're actually just going to go a little bit below the hip line, then just put a little pin in there and then repeat exactly the same with the back to put your center back line right on there, and then find where your waistline is, and so it looks exactly the same as you're from. Don't worry if it's a little bit out, you know, that's what this is all for its for trial and error to this kind of experiment. And, you know, nothing's ever, you know, set in stone. That's what I love about creative pattern cutting is you know, you can move lines around and be a bit more flexible on an experiment. A bit more. No, no line on your body is ever straight. Somebody told me so. You know, you can be a little bit more creative with the lines in the shapes if you like. Yet what we're trying to do is just create your basic outline. So get yourself one of these are tracing. Will we basically just gonna transfer all of the lines from the calico the muslin onto the paper below? So you can you can, quite literally, you know, just get one of these and draw over the lines, which is what we're gonna do. So I'm going to start. We've already got our waistline through there so that lines already kind of on the guide grid for us, so just roughly go through my top tip line ALS the way through again. Remember, when these dots are closed? You know, they might just tip up a little bit, which is kind of trying to create like a grid reference is a really kind of basic guide. This is my head, my low hit. This is my eyes. What say just give it, you know, the trace through. So when we lift up the fabric, those lines will be on it. And then you want to work, you wait all the way around. So we want our front neckline go all the way around. That our shoulder good all the way there. You can put your balance, Malkin. That's a nice front. Um, Whole shape. Oh, right round. Could are one balance marketing that indicates the front of the arm hole. Oh, the way down here, we'll do the dots in a minute. Which is gonna go down the side. Seen from it, creates the side of the body, pulled away down here like that, then would it all the way round the back as well. We're just gonna go down the side seam of the back. Just mark alot of this again. We got your balance mark here. That's where your dart will eventually stitch up and be joined to Daniel back on her. And you see where I was saying that your back arm hole is a little bit straighter than your front? Only See that nice horseshoe shape we've got going around your front on hold that allows for your the bone in your front shoulder there, and then you know your back is a little bit flatter. So you do have quite a luck of my flat, flatter shape there, so make sure you've makes you've done that, and you're to not choose their to indicate your back arm. Hole your shoulder line with your little knots. That's your higher shoulder point, which marries up to this one here, remember? And then you're back neck, which goes away around. Teoh hopes to your center back, so that's all the way around the outside. That's good in your hips and marked on your waistline. Center front center back necklines shoulder. Now we've got to do is mark on the doors. So just mark one where your bus point, because that's quite important. Point there to note on, then what we want to do it is mark on these darts here. It's much more the way down. Try and keep it quite straight and just mark on maybe just a little kind of Tuckey that either end to mark to mark where the dark actually. And so eventually these will disappear into the fabric and get stitched clothes. And that will create your nice shape under your bust in your waist. And I'll give you that nice silhouette and then out again to your hip and then mark your bus starts that just a little better the interest So we know where it finishes off. That's not. And again with your back one. Just you know it, Mark on that one all the way down the good, you know, just to indicate the top on the bottom. So we should hopefully have really nice grit underneath, and you won't necessarily be out to see it very well, because that's the beauty of these tracing wheels is they marked little tiny holes all the way through the cloth onto the fabric below. But don't really dent the fabric. Graham. What's actually from where you're standing, you might not be able to see this But you will when you do this, actually, in person you can see tiny, tiny little holes all the way around in a grid, and it just marks that, but it's not. So obviously, you can then work into those lines and then start making up your grid. So I'm gonna just kind of work my way down here so you can see what I'm doing. So I kind of got this my low hip. You I don't know if you can see that, but faint lines here, I'm gonna make up and you want to go for a right angle, right the way through your center from the center line center, back line and always kind of get a happy medium of where you know this line goes and again it should be roughly about 20 centimeters down. All there you go, 20.3. That's not bad. Is it? So all the way across. And that will indicate your your low hip. And you can write that on there again. Low hip line on donned. You'll know that when that gets stitched up, if you make bodies from that waistline down to that hip line, what either side if you get a nice curve on both of those are quite similar. They should be the same measurement. And you can always, you know, fold over afterwards and see. You know what the shape of that is compared to the shape of this one? This is my back hit. It's gonna draw that line in. That's my nice curb of my backside Seem that you can see from my waistline down on my from gonna get a nice 12. 12 Transfering the sloper onto paper part 2: I'm just following the doctor line. That's all I'm doing. Just tracing over the dotted line. You can see where he is starting to curve in and get a little bit smaller when it comes creeps into my waist. So you could always again you can see trace off that line if you want to put it on onto that one and see if they're similar shape or curve and then compare what they look like. We're gonna go to the back. Yeah, my back bodies. And that's my under wrong point. You can just see that again. Just do that on my front. Don't figure on the front. You do have a across start here, which is mark on where those bus starts will join. And that's the top. Oh, your arms. Hold that, Onda. Uh, when that bus star is closed up, we will trust ruler in. That doesn't have to be the exact measure on either side to that point that it needs to be the same mission so that when it, you know, get stitched up and they're the same measure they know, you know, misplaced, not twisting around. So that point here the bus bus point to decide. Seem here as 2012.8. Yet 12 point they said that they should. When they're stitched up closed, they should be exactly the same measurement. Likewise, when they are close, that will form a straight line on your sizing and should be exactly the same as your backs on my back. Paris 17 c m. I'm from Harris after that's close, remember, that's not going to be there. Just member, that's what they're 16.8. So we will just need to maybe raise up the arm hole A couple of mill just so when that is closed, that will marry up to the back. So remember pay So we will draw in my front neckline. You can use a French curve for this, but I I've always just used this grading square that says how I got taught so I just find it a lot easier. Just you do my curves, but feel free, Put your curves in, or you the shapes with your french curve again, my back neck. I'm just gonna draw that in the just to that point there. And so now we've got this point here, which is our hate chess PR highest shoulder point, and that then will create the line for our shoulder on my shoulder. Well, there's about 11 0.5 something like that. That's the edge of my where that will then become my front arm hole. Need to make sure that back that is the same. To get that point there, follow those lines down and that get 11.5 there again. So when it's flat, you know, things do move around. Things do change. But the key thing is that these this block absolutely needs to marry up exactly the same measurement, the shoulders, the side seemed everything. This is really your starting point. So this absolutely needs to make sure you know, these measurement, this one, this side see measurement, you know, they all match up the shoulders, everything again, the armholes a little bit different cause it doesn't actually join up to anything as yet until you put us leaving it. But certainly these bodies pieces when they get stitched up, will they need to be absolutely perfect. So again, just draw in your for on our home. That's lovely. We're gonna go to that top notch. There's my frank balance mark, and that will indicate my front arm hole. And then we're going to now just jewelry in my back. Um, hole here, creating my looks beautiful on, then draw right to back ballots marked here Now. Good. That's starting to look like a bodice. Take anything. So what we're imagining is that this is again which is working on a grid system s Oh, this is my front and back, which is working on a heart for bodice. So if you're gonna look and imagine if that was drawn out and you mirrored the front over, that would be a complete, symmetrical body shape. So we're just working on half a body shape, so we know we're always going to get a symmetrical bodies. Now, don't forget those last two darts that we've got the one on the front of one of the back under the Boston down the back. So there's the point of that again. Needs to be exactly the same measurement so that when they're stitched up on their exactly the same amount of cloth in each one on, So the the distance between my $2 here dropping about 4.4 c What I just find the middle. This whatever is good for finding the middle of things because the numbers go equally out. So to find a middle of point is really good Teoh to find that on. So find the middle point something here certain in mark home the distance off each side of it. So that's kind of really where I'm aiming, and then that's just needs to be a sure a line all the way down. But that's just married those two up like that. And then we want to find the middle off this point again because we don't want to start twisting around. So I want to find a middle point to just draw all the way down. They're like that. That should really baby is like a ruffian story line all the way down the star. Give or take a little bit just needs to be a similar measurement. I do like to have my daughter. I mean, I've done a little bit on there. It's quite, you know, when you pin it, you could. I looked at about 17 centimeters down, about 17 centimeters down and then just marry those lines back up like that. Don't go down. As far as that top tips. That is quite low, actually. But you just go about 17 down. That's quite nice. And you'll get a very, very nice, quite fitting things don't sound a bit looser. You can always move your dark the bottom of the door off a little bit, enjoying those back up. And you get a little bit more volume around this area. Why didn't in your hip a little bit, but the lower you go smoother shape you get it does get a little bit snug so you can loosen out by shorting those dance. And then again, you gotta just find our other. The top of back one is just there. So we're going to actually just go straight down in a Lionel. That's good. My dog head runs exactly down that line. The back there. So we're gonna just do again. I like to go about 15 centimeters down back, so I'm just gonna short that a little bit. I want a little bit more volume here for the bottom. And then however much my volume was here on the back, it's I'm gonna do about five centimeters. 2.5 centimeters either. Thought again. This isn't set in stone. Any of these measurements? This is very much just a guide, so you can work into them. If your waist is a bit bigger, your darts will be smaller, more room, or if your body is a bit longer oversee this. This point here will be a lot longer. So it really is just kind of a rough guide of how to create. You know, you're kind of your first Sloper. If you like him from that, you can then manipulate you know, the measurements and the size of it and everything like that. So you can see we've got, like, a diamond shape now, well, fished are so we're just gonna join up all of those lines like that. There you go. 12 three, four and you'll find that these are the exact same measures. That's 18.5 as 18.5. So you really do one thes two darts kind of running very, very nice and parallel news. This grid No, this spot on cross to kind of get your nice, you know, measurements. And there you go. That's looking very much like a lovely block. So What we want to do is just label this up now. So we say front bodies and this is my back for this on this has got no seam allowance on No , no frills nothing. This is just the raw guide off your blockages. Fill in that dark there. What you can do after you've got this, you can cut around this outside edge, and that will be your net, you know, workings out off your block, will Sloper. And that's what we're gonna use for all of the classes to then do some manipulation of the darts. We're going to move these darts around and make them into more interesting shapes. But this is really your basic guide off your block. So from this, because it will get, you know, tattered. If you're using it that much, you can now transfer this onto a bit of manila card like this or a you know. But I'm over cardboard box or whatever you've got lying around on. Then transfer them. You can see mine have been well worn because they do get battered stuck bits on where I've changed things around. And I thought all my arm home needs a little bit more room in it or what not. So I've stuck bits on and stuff, but it just gives it a little bit more hard wearing. And then these are really your kind of your really starting point to your pattern cutting. So there you go. You're your lesson in how to do blocks and slippers. I hope you enjoyed that. Good luck. 13. 13 Transfering sloper onto card part 1: Hey, guys, Welcome back. Eso In the last lesson we unp IND are draped Sloper from the mannequin on Gwede Mark Donald Dewar markings and made this lovely to peace front and back bodies on. Then what we did is we transferred under paper on made this lovely grid kind of idea that if you ran your center front line and center back line or the way down the middle so which is working on half of each garment. Then we transferred all of the markings from here onto the paper. Marking on our darks are waistline making all very nice and, you know, symmetrical. And this lovely hip measurement here we've got here making sure that all of our side seams and all of our shoulder lines and everything like that married up. So we transferred with our tracing Will Martic marking on all of that. So the idea is that which is gonna work on, like the 1/2 of the garments who have just got the left hand side off the bodies if you're wearing it and then hopefully when we're doing garments and we're working with our blocks, everything that then you know you've got symmetrical garment. We just work on 1/2 flip it out off or mirrored over, and it should be completely symmetrical. Garment, which is perfect, wouldn't have to worry about trying to get both sides the same. So from the paper markings, we are now going to transfer all of this onto our card, which is this kind of card. It's called Manila Card. It's quite thick. It's quite heavy going, but it will be a lot more durable than the paper. I mean, feel free to keep on the paper, but I always like to put my blocks onto card. As you can see all of my other blocks on card here, and they do, they do take a lot off, you know, wear and tear. So it's good to have them onto something quite sturdy. So we're just going to cut this out now to cut away around the outside edge on this is your net line. This would be eventually off stitch line, so at this stage we don't add any seam allowances. You don't add any frills or funny armholes or funny necklines or anything like that. It's the bare fare essentials off, you know, our body shape, which is at the moment just concentrating on getting a good fit on making sure that no, every everything stitches up together and, uh, and joins up correctly. Get rid of all of this around here. We are actually, at this stage now going, Teoh, you know, cut them in two weeks. We don't need them joined anymore, but it's just good to kind of mark them out on, you know, the same grid so that you could see good. There's our front looking lovely. Yeah, it's good to just cut a mark them out onto agreed so that you could, you know, get everything parallel and straight and measure everything properly. Just cut around. Yeah. Yeah, And the idea that we do this with no seam allowances on is because again, this is the starting point to all of your pattern cutting or pattern making so you can manipulate the shapes and the lines a lot easier without all of your seam allowance on. And then that's kind of the bit that you do at the end. Once you've, you know, done lovely darts and net clans, and that's when you add on. You know, all of your fancy bits afterwards. So at the moment that is just are really bare essentials front and back bodice. So we're going to transfer their own has two ways of doing this. One of them is you can actually glue the song to your card or Stapley on on. Then she's cut around it on, then on pick or unpeeled. If you like the paper or leave the paper on, it's completely up to you. It just kind of gives it that extra bit of sturdiness. So it is one where you can do you no glue it onto the back, and then you've got your extra your sickness here another way is, you know, waiting it down, which is what I'm going to do. Wait that down. Something absolutely No way to find something in the house. It's a little bit weighty on actually draft around. I just drool a straight line down there. That's just to indicate my my bodice and line up with that. You can use anything in your house to weigh it down kind of beans or anything like that, Onda, Uh, yet we're gonna just so draw around the outside of this, just making sure is really accurate. The other way you can dio is again You can drawer weigh it down and you could trace around it with one of these tracing rules. If you don't feel so comfortable confident drawing on straight away, um, on then, you know, fill in, you know, draw over the doctor lines afterwards with that, But I'm just gonna go right the way around the outside, making sure over there the important bits. Yeah, my back home. So that's the outside off my block there on, then I'm just gonna mark on with my traceable through you good mark on my dogs. I'm just gonna do this one piece, but exactly the same applies to the front. You can see what to do on, then, to make sure it doesn't slip around. If you're worried, you can always seller, take the corners down and then cut around it on. Then you can list that off like that, and underneath you will have all of your traced out lines. They go, there's my waistline back again. And here is my back start. Just marry those lines up like that. And then you got my back Martin wear and then don't forget to write on centre back. That is my center back line. So we will now cut this out quite thick. This car to get yourself some good scissors, I would recommend getting quite a thick hard because they will be using quite a lot. And it's gonna have quite a lot of wear and tear into it. You don't want it starting Teoh for rip after your first. You know where them good do be accurate. Take your time because again, if you do this perfectly, everything else after that war, you know, make a lot more sense. It's good. 14. 14 Transfering sloper onto card part 2: writable of Mom. This okay? And there you go. There's, um There's the back bodies there. And don't forget to. You could mark on anything after that. You can mark on your top hip, which, as I said, is 10 centimeters down from your waistline. You can mark on that. You can also label it out. We're gonna label it back bodice again. This is exactly the same with the front as well. Just make sure that they always join up after you've cut it out. And don't forget, we need to actually mark on these these three ends of my dark. So I've got one of these. It's called a mushroom or a drill. Very easy instrument. Or you could just again try and mark it with a end of a scissor or something on right on the end of that point, just give that a bit of a twist on It. Makes a lovely little hole on that when you're laying it on too patterns and moving that around that will be a really important point to mark. You know, if your bus points on a few for the end of the dark so that we know you know what we're doing without dance. So just put a mark on each of those points like that. Give it a bit. You go Looks absolutely beautiful. And then don't forget we need Teoh. You've got one of these. It's called a notch. Er again. You can get these online. They're very good on what they do is they just mark on. If you just clip it there and it marks on a little hole in a point against the When you're tracing around these, you can mark on that little mark and lift your card off and draw around and you can see you know where your lines going to match up. You can put in your top hit there on. We know that that bottom line is up our bottom. Here, Parlow hit You could do on either side and then your back two notches for your back arm. Hole on the front. One feel right. So there you have it. That is your back, bodice. And I will to show you how to transfer the front one on just slightly differently. So what we can do is something like we just cut, Just work out roughly how much card you want. You can draw around, cut around this quite roughly. Very rough. Latest round. This is just another way of France. Very your block onto card. Just very, very roughly. That's really why I'm doing this quite close, kid. As you need to now get yourself a stapler in mind. Actually, quite small. So I need to get it right. No, in the edges. You can actually stay. Pull this down If you find it easier doing it like this, just stay. Put it down in places. So it's nice and flat abs that you go make sure it's not gonna move anywhere. Andi just quickly read stuck me up. Just finished that off. Sorry about that. We go again, so just make sure you get all the way around. Yeah, this is a quite a good way. Get the arm. Hold in there. Right there we go. Just man. Your little ina's you like and then that's nice. Insecure. That's not going anywhere. And then what you can do is or you can glue this down as well if you like, but it's completely up to you. So then what you can do now is a draw Sorry cuts around this. Outsiders like this. One of them. Absolutely key things. You must make sure after these have been cut out that these do marry up exactly onto, you know, onto flat. You see that? That these side seems join up, and then this one joins up to the top there that also my shoulder line is going to join up beautifully after this, you know, been stitched up. So they absolutely need to make sure the side seams, shoulders, anything that's going to be stitched onto something else that's mutual constantly Go back into your work. Just check that everything matches up was quite a lot of people. What they do is, you know, draft out these bodies is drink them on the stand, take the pattern off them, and then don't check back into the work to check that their marrying back up again. So that's absolutely the golden rule. Wherever you drink from the stand or ever you pattern weather pattern you take, you absolutely must go back into it after you know, tweets, the lines and everything like that. Just make sure that everything joins back up again. Otherwise, government's not going together So this is another way of putting it onto card, which is very, very easy and straightforward. Now you have it so you can keep those staples on there like that, or take that off afterward. It's completely up to you again. We're going to just do what we did with the back bodice and just mark on the ends of the the dogs that I don't want. And don't forget that one and then using our love, Little not sure here, just go work away around these really important points is putting a little notch. We call it into these key points One for the front, two for the back. Remember on then you can put one into the waste here and again, we can mark on our top hitters world, just other immigrants. But roughly about 10 cm down from the way something like that, they were right across making sure that, you know, is on a straight line to that sense of from. And then you can mock that on on. That should helpfully okay, perfect little block that marries that. We see how my notches marry up. Most might waste my top hit my low hip and then we're gonna just one in my back that joins up lovely to the top of the arm hole here. Just mark that, not John here. So we know that that's where that dart is. If you put your side seems together as well that that's the kind of shape we're trying to achieve from our, um from our arm hold use that lovely horseshoe shape. We're trying to get really nice curve of the front that will scoop around the front of your arm and then quite straight up it about now that's on the back. Should always sit slightly higher than the front, and then just make sure your shoulder points join up. You go lovely. It's a nice little shape. We don't want that, but, you know, pointing without a nice curve. And also in the next time you see that nice curve that we've got going around or flow completely lovely round on your back, for there you go. They have it. There's your front and back bodies onto card. They're ready for you to Teoh to work with. Thank you very much.