Pattern Making for beginners: How to Draft a Skirt Block | Kathryn Roberts | Skillshare

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Pattern Making for beginners: How to Draft a Skirt Block

teacher avatar Kathryn Roberts, professional pattern cutter

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.



    • 2.

      Tools and Equipment


    • 3.

      How to Measure


    • 4.

      Drafting the Skirt: Part 1


    • 5.

      Drafting the Skirt: Part 2


    • 6.

      Drafting the Skirt: Part 3


    • 7.

      How to Trace Your Pattern Off


    • 8.

      Adding the finishing touches: seam allowance, notches, drill holes and darts!


    • 9.

      Common Fit Problems and How to Fix Them


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About This Class

In this class you'll learn how to draft a skirt block using your own unique measurements. If you're new to pattern cutting then this is a great first step to start you off. 

We'll go through the basics. Starting with the tools, how to use them and how to measure. As well as learning the drafting method you'll also learn how to trace your block off and add seam allowances. Finally I'll show you some common fit problems and what you can do to fix them.

Grab the class notes (they're in the class project section) and follow along. 

For the class you will need:

  • A pencil and rubber
  • A Pattern Master or Set square
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Pattern paper
  • A metre ruler
  • Calico or toiling fabric
  • A calculator
  • A tape measure
  • A tracing wheel
  • A pattern drill

Being able to create beautiful clothing that fits your body is an amazing skill to have, and one you won't regret learning! 

If you haven't got all the tools you need, check out my online shop to grab some here

Meet Your Teacher

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Kathryn Roberts

professional pattern cutter

Level: Beginner

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1. Introduction: Hey, guys, My name is Kate. I'm a professional pattern cutter working in London. I first discovered soaring when I was a teenager, but it wasn't really until I went to university studied fashion design that I fell in love with planning cutting. Since then, I've trained as a pattern cutter on our what in the industry really keen to teach pattern cutting because I think that this is an area that a lot of so I tend to avoid. I know that the math consume a bit scary on that. The whole process is a bit daunting, but I promise you, if you break it down, it's really easy to follow. And it could be so rewarding in this class. I'm going to show you House dropped Very earnest. Scott Bloch. I'm gonna take you right through from the basics. I'm getting introduced to the tools and show you how to use them. From there. I'm gonna show you how to measure. And then, of course, House draft block. I'm also going to show you how to trace it off. Check it and true it and how to add, seem, announces the last thing that we're gonna go through are some common fit problems that you might run into and what you can do to fix them. This is a block that we're going to be drafting to say you can see it's fitted at the waist on the hips and then it comes straight down to the him. It's got two dots on each side of the front, and it's got two dots on each side of the back. A block is really the starting point of the faces of any patterns, so it's important that we get this correct. It also means that if you're a beginner, then this is a great place to start. 2. Tools and Equipment: So this is the equipment that we're going to need today about the video. I'm gonna run through each tool and how to use them, but I'll just quickly run through what you need. Now it's the first thing that we're going to need is a patent monster or a stats grant. I learned to use part master, and I love it because you've got these straight edges as well as all the curves. If you're using a set square, you're going to need a French Kurd to do any heavy curves or armholes as well. And I just find it a little bit in a way, having to tools Brother one. We're also green speed tape measure and a meter rula. I'd recommend the metal meter real owes rather than the wooden ones, because they're more accurate and easier to use. We're also going to need some tape. I like to use Scotch tape because you could rip it. You can draw on it on a secret, but you can also use masking tape, green tea, a handrail patent on a mechanical pencil. I recommend using one of these guys rather than a normal pencil, because a normal pencil is just gonna get really blunt really quickly, and you're going to spend all of your time either Sharpening it, you're gonna have lines that are a few millimeters wide on aren't very accurate. We're going to need a tracing whale on some paper says is. And if you're like me trusty calculator, please don't judge me my mental mats. It's terrible. So I need this all the time. The lost your grades need is some paper I'm using, doctor, Across paper. If you got any, that's fine. This is really handy when you're drafting because it helps you know it. You're drawing straight lines on that. Your 90 degree angles are after 90 degree. I know that some people would like to use the wrong side of all backing paper. That's a great idea to I'm awful recycling. Now we've got tools. Let's get started 3. How to Measure: Hi guys. Today, I'm gonna show you how to measure. The first thing that I really want to stress is that measuring is a two person job. It's almost impossible to measure yourself accurately, So you need a friend or family member to help you with this death. There are a few things that we really want to consider. When we're measuring on, the first thing is allowed. Tape measure should be flapped against the body and straight when we're doing circumference measurements. The second thing is, our bodies are soft and they move so you don't really want your tape measure squeezing too tight or too loose. Ideally, you want it sitting against the body firmly but not sweeping. The last thing that we need to consider is that when we're doing our length measurements, it's helpful to have a fixed point to measure down for up from. I do this by tying a ribbon around the waist just after I've measured it. On that note. The first measurement that we need is always judgment. So I take take my tape measure and put it around the narrowest point of the abdomen. It's flat and I make sure that it's straight now I can put my ribbon around the waist to mark my point. The next measurement that we need is our hit much man, and that's the widest point of the lower body. So again I put my tape measure flat around the body. I make sure that it's straight before you release this measurement. You wanna then measure your waist to hit, so you want to grab either a second tape measure with the other end of your tape measure. If it's reversible and simply measured straight down from your waist to your hips, the last measurement that we're going to need is our waist to knee. So again you simply measure down from your waist to the middle of your knee. And there's a all the measurements that we're going to need today. 4. Drafting the Skirt: Part 1: Hey, guys. So now we got to do the fun. Bit were out. You gonna draw? Look, so grab your class news has about three pages there really good to follow along, step by step until jot down any notes or max along the way. The other thing to note is that when we drop blocks, we dropped them on the hot. So we're gonna drop from our center front sent back this. Your greens need Amita Barilla pasta greens needs and mechanical pencil on a rubber. I've got one on the end. Just very handy. I'm going to be using a felt it markets demonstrate. But please, guys don't do that. Use mechanical pencil. They're much more accurate. And if, like me, you need to co created grab one of those as well. So first thing that we need to do is go to the top left hand corner of the page and make a mark and label it number one. So if you're using down across paper, this is where it's really handy to put your dot in the middle of a daughter across so that you can use the dots and crosses as a guide for your rectangle. So we're gonna leave without 0.1 from 0.1. We want to draw a straight line across the top of our page. And again I'm going to use my doctor my crosses as a guide for this straight line so that I can use them as a guide for my next lines to check that I'm going on a right angle on this line. We're now in a marked point to and it tells us, you know, Newt, that point want to is equal toe our head divided by two last 1.5. So for me, it might have been 100 to divide that by two. That's 51 plus 1.5 52.5. So I measure across 1.1 on a make mark at 52.5 1.2. We know when to draw a line down our page. This line it needs to be at a 90 degree line from our original line. We can do that using on the part of Master on this 90 degree line on here. Corbyn squaring in line. All we are referring to you when we say to square line is to draw a line from another line at a 90 degree angle. So you can see here that my 90 degree line on my iPad a master is lined up my original line . So, in theory, the straight edge of Patent Master is sitting at a 90 degree angle from my original life. So if I read to draw down here, you, you all these qualities will be 90 degree. This line isn't going to be long enough. May we need Teoh is grab your meter roula and match up with straight edge of your pan. Martha, make sure that it straight on their own nougat. I still want a matchup 93 9 in your patent mask over your original line and you just want to drag it along on your mental ruler. Point to and secure your metal. Rely on drew a line straight down. So now these two nines form and 90 degree corner they are sprouted from each other. Next thing we want to do is measure down from point to on mark on 0.0.3 and it tells us about 2 to 3 is equal to our waste to me. So for me, that is 58. It's my measure down on a mark at 50. Label that three. Next, we need to mark on 0.4. So we need to do square line down from 0.1 on mark on point for and it tells us that 1 to 4 is equal to 2 to 3 again. That's 58 centimeters. That's my waist to me, just like we did it point to. We're going to use Alpine master on our meter Rula. So if we go 2.1 and we line up our 90 degree line with our original line and drag our pan master and meet a ruler down 2.1 and then simply draw a line down the average about me too real. Now we come back on point full. So I measured down from 0.1 58 centimeters my mark on quick four. Next, we're gonna match up 0.3 and four there we have our starting rectangles. At this point, I just want to go and double track of all of you. Corners are definite, perfect triangles. You got a patent? Most of what? We can do it this way in a line up one of your lines with your 90 degree line on the part master, and then you want to check that. The other line sits exactly flat with the flat. They're not sitting quite flat part master. You got off ever so slightly somewhere. It's really easy to dio, and it's no problem to fix. Try either redrafting the rectangle or adjusting it so that each Horner is an exact right angle. Great. So the next thing we need to do is Mark on our hip on all sides. Seem do that. We need to mark a point fine. And we know that 1 to 5 is equal to our waste to him. So for me, that's 25 so I can measure down from 0.1 25 10 to me, too. Make a point. Enable that point as 1.5, we're going to square a line across the bloc. So again, we're going to need to use on me to freedom where we line up our 90 degree line on our part , master with our original line and drag it up until I me to relay into sex five. Simply draw a line straight across at this intersection. We're gonna label a 0.6. As I mentioned earlier, it's really handy to be used in Dr Favor. Now I can see that my line is exactly straight because my distance between my line and my daughter crosses is equal. I can see that all the way around my rectangle. If I wasn't straight, then my line to be sitting at a slight angle or slightly. So the next thing we need to do is my called Week seven mark seven. We measure across from point of a five, and it tells us that 5 to 7 is equal. Teoh hip divided by four class, 1.5. So if in the end my hip, it 100 to buy that before is 25 point by plus 1.5 is 27 centimeters. So I'm just gonna go across 2.5 measure across 27 centimeters. A mark on 270.7 marking outside seem to want to draw a line down from 0.7. So we're gonna square this line down from line 5 to 6, using our 90 degree line on the original line and dragging Almita rula across 900.7 for just gonna draw that line in that This intersection We're gonna mark 0.8 Great snow. It's really starting to take shape. Let's take a moment and label a few things up. This is our waistlines. It is a hen. This is our side. Seam. This is our sent back. This is our send front. On this line is our hip line. 5. Drafting the Skirt: Part 2: great. So now that we've finished, the first major step we can move on to the 2nd 1 is we're gonna mark in our back waistline on our dots on the upper section off our side scene. The first thing we need to do is measure across from 0.1 and mark on point night. We should bring this slightly further down to make life a bit easier of me. So we know that the distance from 0.1 to 9 is equal to our waste. Divided by four plus 4.25 So for me, my race measurement is 69. Divide that by four is equal to 17.25 plus 4.25 is equal to 21.5. So if I go up Teoh, right, number one, I measure across 21.5 centimeters. Gonna make a little mark on I labeled out 0.9 1.9. We want to square a line up. So from our original line were growing up. The length of this line is going to be 1.25 and I can enable the end of that line next. We're going to draw a line connecting 0.10 on one. This is gonna be our new back waistline. Now we can start marking on our dark, but we need to do is mark to evenly spaced points on line 1 to 10. Do this. We simply need to measure our line and divide it by three. So for me, my line 1 to 10 measuring 21.7. Mostly I'm going to use, like, okay for that. 21.7 divided by three with equal to 7.2. So if I measure across from 0.1, when I make a mock at 7.2 and then from that mark, I'm gonna measure across again. 7.2 on a theory. This last section should also measured 7.2. So now we have to even the space points. One closest 10.1 working the label 0.11 on the other one will label 12. Each of these points is gonna form a doctor. So to make the dark when two square line down from our new waistline. So that's top line here from 0.11 square line down. I'm going to make it 14 centimeters long at the end of this line from going to mark 0.13 1.12. We also want to square line down. And remember, we're doing this for my new waist line. So it's top fine. The length of this line is gonna be 12.5 centimeters at the end of this line. We're going to mark 14 now on this block, our dart or two centimeters wide. This first line that we've locked in is our middle fold line. So we need to do is make a point. Either side of 0.0.11 and 12 1 centimeter away. Now we can connect 0.13 to each of these points. And this is our first art two cents meters wide, and it comes all the way down to 20.13. So now all we need to do you simply repeat, not with 0.12. Make a mark your side of 0.12 1 centimeter away, and then connect 0.14 to both of these points. And there is our second back way. Stop. Next. We're gonna market in the upper section on our side. Seem so I hit cup. Do this draw a line connecting 0.7 point nine. Now you want to find the midpoint of this line. So you need to do is measure line and divide it by two. For me, that's measuring 25.5. So divide 25.52 That's 12.75 sir. If I go up 2.9 and I measured down 12.75 centimeters and I make a mock from this mark, I want to square a line away from the piece I'm drafting. So in this case, I'm gonna square towards my sense Front on the length of this line is going to be a north 0.5 centimeters, five millimeters So far in this gossip when you use the straight edge of a patent, Austin. But now we can use the curved edge. If you are using a patent Mastic, great. If you're using a set square, this is a good time to grab your French car or you can try and do it freehand. But I wouldn't really recommend that much easier with curve on the edge here really would recommend getting a pattern master, especially the original, and that was designed specifically for more plan. See this edge here? It's flat, so you can flip it either way to use fewer hip curves. There are some cheaper ones on the market kind of copies, but they're not flat on that edge, like really key thing for me that I love about this one. Anyway, back to drafting the draw in our hit curve. We want to draw a line going from 0.7 to 10 while using our little line that we squared away as guide. If I line on my patent master in one curve from 7 to 10 you can see it goes way beyond my guideline, and it auto forms a bit of a weird bubble. Ideally, we want a nice, smooth line going up from our side seem all the way to my way. I don't want it angling out like this. We don't want any sharp corners having a little play around Patent Master French car to see where a nice move line is gonna get you. I'm ready to mind in two parts from 20.7 to my guidelines, and then my God learned to 0.10. So for me, if I have a little play around from 0.7 to my guideline, I can match up really nice curve. And it's a nice smooth follow one from my straight citing. And now if I want to go for my guideline 2.10 you can see I'm going to get, like, a second bump, which is really no, we want We want it still to be a nice to meet, follow one. So I know ever, actually, I have to go straight here. I'd also makes sense because that's kind of shape my hips fairly straight top. We've got a good follow on from our first section of the line on straight up 2.10. Now we have a lovely smooth curve going from 0.10 3.7 would weight the hem. On this out of line is our new side seam. Fantastic, guys, That is the backdrop completely. Don't 6. Drafting the Skirt: Part 3: Now we can do the front just like we don't on the back. We now need to mark on our friend. Waste our dot on our side seam First step to doing this is marking on 2015 I. We know that 2 to 15 is equal to my waist. Divided by four plus 2.25 Sutphin me that 69 divided by 4 17.25 plus 2.25 is 19.5. So if I go along to point number two when I measure across my waistline, I could mark on a 0.15 at 19.5 from 0.15 we want to square a line up on the length of this line is 1.25 centimeters at the top of his life. Mark points 16. Now we need to connect point to on 16 and now this line is our new front waistline. They only have one dot on the front of not to like on the back, but we still need to mark two evenly spaced points. We don't really want to centralize his visually. It's not very nice. So we're gonna do it slightly more towards the sighting, just like we did on the back. Well, we need to do is measure our front waistline. Identify that by three reminds measuring 19.5. Divide that by three groups, 19.5 divided by three is equal to 6.5. So if I come to 0.16 I measure across 6.5. I'm making the whole month. I label this mark 0.17 from the back remarked in our second point, but on the front, we don't need to because we're only doing Wanda. Leave that one there from 0.17 we want to square a line down. And remember, you're not squaring parallel to your sense front were squaring off of our new front waistline just like we did on the back. We gonna square line down on this line is gonna be 10 centimeters long at the end of this line. We're gonna mock 0.18 now. This doctor is going to be two centimeters wide, the line that we've marked on our mid fold line. So we just need to go up 2.17 and mark two marks one centimeter your side of it. Then we conjoined bees up with 0.18 to form OutFront thought. And there it is. You can see It's two centimeters wide and it comes all the way down to 20.18. The last step is to mark in our head curve redraw line connecting 0.7 on 15. Next, we need to find the midpoint. So we're just gonna measure the line between seven. And 15 and divide that by two. So mine is measuring 25.5. Divide that by two. Is 12.75 I'm gonna measure up from 0.7. Can measure down from 15 is, but it doesn't really matter, but get a measure up from quite seven, and I'm gonna make a mock at 12.75 from that mark. I'm never gonna square away from recent front. It would within two back. I'm gonna square align at North 20.5 sentence long, just like we did on the back. We're now gonna enjoy an alcove, so we're going to start a 0.7. We're gonna go through a guideline on we're going to go up 2.16. I know from the back that I'm probably gonna have to you have been to heart. I'm gonna do my fast part, creating a lovely smear curve up from my side. 15 to my guideline on its work. Just playing around Patent Master to make sure you got a really nice line there. Next from my guidelines to 150.16 I'm gonna draw in a line and I'm gonna do a straight line again. You can see that needs on really nicely section that I've done. And that's out front, hip carved, done and just like magic. There is a whole skirt block well done, guys size the hard bit done in the next videos, I'll show you how to turn this into a pattern. 7. How to Trace Your Pattern Off: well done on drafting your first fair block. That is the hard bit done. Now, we just need to Tracy off its original draft. We're gonna call our hard copy, and it's really important that we don't damage or loses because it's essentially like our backup. If we ever destroy or lose our pattern a roadblock. We've got this to trace off. Once we fitted out Block, we're gonna come back to this hard copy. We're gonna amend this as well, and then we're going to trace off another copy of this to use in our day to day pattern cutting. So there are two different ways that we can trace off. You need a trace over the top by seeing what's underneath. Well, we can put some paper underneath. We can trace overall using a tracing room and then re draw on the paper. London E. I'm gonna show you break methods, Jane. So grab a bit of extra paper. You're gonna need your tracing, will apart and drove pattern Notre, and you're gonna need a pencil and meter Rueda Andrew Pattern master, But also green speed a couple of pins because gonna pin the paper down to stop it from moving so fast. Method tracing from above. You want to try and make sure you got really solid pencil lines you can see through. Obviously, our views filtered. Marcus. You can very easily see it, but your pencil lines might be a little bit faint, so it's sometimes worth going over them to make them a little bit darker. It's in the top paper down so we don't get any movement. Gonna make sure there's no wrinkles or air bubbles as well. Why we're doing this now that that's on there nice and security. We can start drawing lines on any straight lines and recommend just drawing them straight on using a meat ruler or a past master. I'm gonna start with very center front. I'm gonna make a little ma where your son different waste is on my sent different hem. And then using my meter rula, I could join up these two marks. Next we're gonna do the hem. I'm gonna make a little mock my hem side seam. And since we already have a mark from our sense front hem, well we need to do is connect these two docks or marks the lower part of our side team is also straight. So it's a mega mark and I heck work Dr Curve. And then we can connect that mark to buy him. The upper half of our side seem hip, is curved. We can't use our route. Let's do that. So let's trace through. I like to trace route with a dotted line and I tried to do my dots or dashes about a centimeter apart to keep it as accurate as possible. From here, we can trace our waste. I wasted mostly straight at this point, so as we did with all of our other straight lines, we make a mark for the stop on the start and draw it in. Now we draw on our docked on the same. We're just tracing straight over the line that is there underneath. And then I know that this line here is straight to so I'm gonna trace through my So that's how starting outline Now we need to fill in this curve that we've done is a dash line, and it's really important to get this car correct. We can still draw a curve using our powder master and a straight edge. All we need to do is use your pen as a pivot point. We draw a small line and then rotate our powder master, and we repeat this away along Al Curve. Here. We've got a nice curve, but obviously I'm using felt tip marker. So I've got little dots along my line with a pencil. It creates a nice move continuous line. For example. I'm using my pencil and doing lots of small little lines, kind of like a computer does. Then now I've got a lovely, smooth curve that this method of drawing in a kind of calmed a bit tricky. So definitely recommend trying this. I went practicing it quite a few times before. You have a girl doing your hip cub. If we go back to our block weaken, join up our dots, using this method on our pattern master to keep things nice and even and smooth. And there you can see my hip curve is nice and smooth and solid. The last line that we need to mark on is our hip line, so it straight said it's mark at each and joined them up there. We have our front block completely traced off. So for this method Bergen and place our paper underneath the block. Copy. Make sure that you are underneath all of lines You want to train, so even otherwise, you're in the hope of a problem. And just like we did with the 1st 1 that we need to pin the paper down, pin it together that we don't have any movements. Okay, so you want to grab a tracing will and we are literally just going straight over all the lines so that it's going to make a little perforated marks on the paper underneath or are straight lines. There's really no point in tracing it all the way up the line. So what I do is I make a cross at the end of the line and then when I come Teoh drawing my block afterwards, I know that if I joined up my two crosses, thoughts, my straight line, I'm gonna start down in my head. So I'm gonna make a little line. Wimmer side team is and then a little line where my head is and that's my first cross. I'm going to do the same sense back. Make another cross. I'm gonna go right up to the way I'm gonna make a line up we sent back. And then from my dark, I'm gonna trade over my whole line to my tent. I'm gonna do exactly the same for my doctor. I'm gonna go from my apex all the way up to my waist on each side and then along the next section, off my waist as well. And then I'm gonna repeat this on the doctor return going all the way along these lines. They're quite short lines. You could also, if you want to just stop your point. I'm also agreed You're down to the apex off my doctor, and I'm gonna make a little line going crossways. This keeps it really accurate in case anything has moved or shifted. Where if we've got a little bit skew when we've been tracing at all, just finish off that waste and then come down to hit and make a little cross a top of the hit or the end of a straight line. And then also at that sent about and for our curbs. We literally just trace over the car when you try and get this curious possible Cerveny taking time. So there were all we've traced over all of our lines. Make sure that you've marked everything that you need on there. Once you have, you can unp in it and then we can see the paper underneath. You're not going to have to see it from the camera, But I have got some perforated lines all over this paper. It just takes a really key and I and sometimes you have to feel it. Try and find it and matchup. Now let's grab our pen powder Master on our meter ruler and we can start drawing in our block by connecting the dots. - And there we have our back piece all traced off. It really is just a personal preference on which method to use, So give them both a try. 8. Adding the finishing touches: seam allowance, notches, drill holes and darts!: Alright guys. So you know that we've traced all Bob looks and we've got our basic outline we need to do is add some seam allowances. Bottom up. I'm gonna use my back block to demonstrate house. Do this, Anssi moments we're gonna use Arpad master. Or if you're using a set square, you can use that as well. Used these lines here, which all spaced at no 0.5 increments. So if you're wanting to, artists tend to be too seamounts. You'd use second lining. And if you wanted to add 1.5, you use the headlining. It's really quite simple or you to do is line up our original line or a stitch line with a guideline on the powder master. And then the flat edge of the powder master is gonna be offset or parallel to the original line. So you can see here. I've lined up my original line or my stitch line with my one centimeter guideline. I want to draw down. My new line is exactly one centimeter away from my original line on my head. I'm gonna do the same. I'm gonna one sent in a seaman balance again. I've lined up by one centimeter guideline with my original line and then drawn along my straight edge, and that's given me a line parallel. And then I'm also going to the same on my sent about. So I guess the great news is that one of these lines straight that he's each day. But what happens when you got a cut? This is where it's really handy to have practiced that method that we spoke about earlier, where we use our pen or pencil as a pivot point drugs have. Well, I'm gonna do is I'm gonna match up my one centimeter guideline in my original line, and I'm gonna draw along until it doesn't much anymore. And then I'm gonna use my pen or pencil as a pivot point to make my line much again. And then I draw a little bit of long until it doesn't match again. And then I rotate using my panel pencil so that timeline matches again, and I repeat this over and over until I get right to the top on this top. I'm also going to add a centimeter, but we've got a couple of dollars at the moment. They're open dance. There's no fabric inside. But all we have to do is change them to be folded dance so that there's a better fabric inside students. For any Teoh is manually close them. We hunted like this because we've got this big bulge of paper and that's quite hard to work with. Hard to control. Normally, what I trying to use is the corner of a table. So I've got to solid edges. But just demonstrate here, I'm going to use the folks I did. You want a table with a nice, crisp edge you can fold on first thing we want to do. You put the apex of the dot on the corner of the table and then line up one leg of the dark with thick table edge, using the table edge as a guide to help us get a nice, crisp fold line. Well, we need to do is bold the first leg of the draft over to the second to close it up. And remember that reporting 20 at the apex so you can see that this dark is now closed as if it was sewn shut. At this point, we want to secure the dark closed so I'm gonna pin it. But you can also take it. So now we can see will begin to see the run of our waistline. See the rial run before run. Let's close our second daughter. So again, I'm gonna put the apex of my dark onto the corner of my table and I'm gonna line up fast leg with edge of my table. I'm simply gonna fold it along the edge and then fold it closed. So that agreed to nothing at the once that supported closed weaken again. Secure it like we did with the first off. Just to keep this area nice and flat. You can see it down. Here is all of the excess in the shaping on up here. It's all lovely waistline, but you can see my way. Fine isn't a great curve. I've got some little corners in that would fix this over there. Do is read rollback. Have slightly to get rid of those corners. Can we call this true ing a line? So over referring Teoh when we're say true line is simply just smooth it out to get rid of any quantity using my powder master, I can read rule that curbs and you can see I'm just going along and slowly smoothing it out . So I'm having to add on a few mills at the top of my dots. You might find you have to take them off. So here my line is really thick. But if you're using a pencil, you just rub out that bottom line and keep your top line. That top line doesn't like much smoother curve. There's no corners, kinks in it. Next, let's grab our treating will weaken, trace through to find the underlay of our dot. You're just gonna trace over your new waistline, a nice car, and you only really need to do this where your doctor off. And then if we open up our dot to take off your pens on tape, open them up and you can see that I've got some little preparation marks on the inside of my doctor. He's exactly mirror my waistline. So grab a pint, master and go over at the preparation marks. Now, when we saw it, there is top of the darts are gonna match perfectly into our waistline. It's not be any pulling brilliant. Now we've closed our dog. We're not quite there yet. We still haven't actually added Alsons Cement. First thing we do is extend our dart leg. They go past the stitch lines. You can see my first dot already husband. Sorry, just like we did with the rest of block. But it's match up our guideline on our part of master. So I'm gonna go one centimeter, draw along the edge all the way along and remember that our waste is not curbed. You can't just something draw a straight line. Got to use your pen or pencil at a pivot point. Great. So that it all of our seamen almonds added. Well done. So next, we just want a label a couple of things up. Haven't got a huge money information on here. So this is our center back line this without him, Our hit on our waste. We also need to put a grain line on it. In this case, our grain is parallel to sent back. So if you're being real minimalist about it, you can just pop in our on your sense about But I prefer to have a natural, separate great line. So I'm gonna offset it using my patent master to offset the maximum amount that I can. So I'm gonna line up with my six centimeter guideline and draw a line down. You always want to put a little arrow on your brain line on label it with grain just to make it super clear to contact me. We're also Greenstein a little bit more information about what this actually is. So the first thing that we're gonna put on it is our pattern name. So this is our Scott Bloch. Next thing is our peace name. So this is my back, and then we also need what we're gonna cut. So this is cut one path self. If you're doing the front lock, it would just be caught one. But for this we need a pair. I also want to pop the date down. Today's date is 25th of April 2019 and this is just that you don't get mixed up between multiple copies of a pattern. We do also, you normally put aside on it, but because this is drafted from my specific regiment, it doesn't really fall into a size category. Last step that we need to do in this whole proof there is to cut out. Put some notches and drill. Hold on it. Let's cut the baby out. All right, So now are blocked is a lovely and beautiful and trimmed off. We can put some notches on first face. We're gonna put nachos are adults and not on a pattern is really just indication where you need to snip on the fabric. Guide yourself on where to So so to make a natural not drag you simply place it over the area you want not and press down. It will then remove a little piece of paper to give you a nice, clear indication of wet mulch. Really important to remember that when we're not darts, we need to not along the angle off the dart leg, Generally speaking and putting cutting, we always want a notch out dark positions. We also want to not any details. So I exist. So pocket positions on. Of course, we need our notches to help us when re stitching position notches and then we're also wants not seem announces because often there's multiple different semen answers within one pattern. To make this really accurate, you want to extend your stitch lines through to the edge of your semen on. I'm gonna not my headline. They're also going to do that on the front of my block, and I'm gonna use those two notches as a guideline to know that I've not stretched one piece off and then I also what's not true? I'm gonna put my center back, so I'm gonna make my 20 centimeters long. If I put a little note to remark about 20 centimeters down from my way, I could draw in a nook when we're doing a position not like this. We always want to try and keep it at a 90 degree angle to our original line. So it's perpendicular. So now that we've marked in all of our not just notch away now with a mocking outro holds so we're gonna mark the apex off both of our dots. I'm really used a pattern driller to do that. So put the point of your pattern drill over you apex of your darks. Push down untwist, And that is gonna cut our tiny little circle of paper. So we have a kid position where to mark the end of our doctor. So again, I'm gonna put the point of my pan drill of the apex of my dog. I'm gonna push down interest. So there we are. We have to Dr clearly marked. So when we come to store it weaken Mark Rose on the fabric. And there we have our back scratch piece ready to cut out in fabric and 12. 9. Common Fit Problems and How to Fix Them: so well done on draft in your first cap block. Now that you've 12 up, it's time to fit it. It all fits correctly, then this is roughly what it's gonna look like. You can see our side seems hang directly down for my hips, and so it did center front and are sent back. What you want to do before you take anything out of the hips. If it's a little bit too round is do is sitting down test. It sounds silly, but really it's so necessary. You just want to sit down and see if it's comfortable. Bear in mind that a Scott Bloch is going to be the most fitted garments ever gonna be. It's got the minimum amount of forties added intimate. Let's have a look at some common fit problems that you might run into on what we can do to fix them. Probably the most common problem that I find is that there has been a little bit of a blip in the calculation somewhere. So I hit measurement or waist measurement coming up a little bit too small, like in this photograph to save us, redrafting the whole thing over again, try adding a little bit into your side. Seymour slashing through on adding through equally in body. Try to remember that when we're out again, we didn't want to upset balance when you're flashing and try to add, even need to your front and back. And if you're adding to the hip at Paranal to the hand, find out how much you should be flashing in. Try reading your calculations to find out what will total hip and waist measurement should be. Find your way. Take your body measurement divided by two and are no put fine To find your hip, take your body measurement divided by two on at 1.5. In that same kind of vein, you might find the IV added an ill. But too much ease to go scare is actually t big. You. You can either redo your calculations, your waist and your head and remove any access from your pattern. Or you can put it on the body and pain out any access. You can either remove the excess at the side seam, or you can slash it out for a more even spread. But if you're going to pin it on the body, after you pinned it. Do you were sitting down? Tapped? If you can sit down in it and comfortable, Great. If not, then you've probably taken a little bit too much and you want to add a bit more ease back in. If you do, you take it all from the side teams. Remember that you might need to redistribute your way starts so that they're still nice and evenly spread. In this example. The total hip measurement is correct, but the curve of the top hip is a bit too covey. It's all I've done is I've pinned out my access and I'm gonna transfer that onto my past in what you might find is that you need to pin over the hip and slightly below it. If this is the case, remember that you don't really want to take anything out of a total hip measurement. So whatever you've pinned out side scenes, you can then add back on at the centre back. And remember, when you adding into hip, you wanna parallel straight down to the head, but nothing at the waist. In this next example, Scott fits well with the hips on the tummy on around the back waste, but it gaped just at the front waste fixes. We contend the excess into our dog by doing this or doing is making our darts bigger. We're increasing the amount of suppression. Because of this, you might find that you need to move your dark position. You want to make sure that the extra shaping that you're creating is in the right place. You could also find that you have the reverse of this problem, So in this example, the block fits well around the front and the hips. But it gapes at the back waste because suddenly do the same thing. I'm pin the access into our dogs. Also, we have a scent vaccine, so it's worth penning a little bit out of you sent vaccine as well, on adding some shaping their on this example. You can see that skirts aren't correctly balanced for swinging forwards and backwards instead of hanging directly down from the hips. If you're finding that you're skirt is swinging backwards, all that this means is that there's too much length in your center front. Try pinning out. I was sent to front waste to nothing at the side seam, the aim is to get your skirt hanging directly straight down from the hips. Once you've achieved this, removed the amount if handout from the top edge off your front waste. Remember to re measure on. Adjust if necessary, your front waste. You still want to keep your original waist measurement. If you're finding that you're skirt is swinging forwards, it just means that you've got too much length and you're sent back as we did with front will do with the back 10 out any length that you don't need to make sure your skirt is hanging straight and remove this from your pattern. The last example that I'm gonna show you today is another balance problem. So you can see here that from the side seen, the skirt isn't hanging directly down. Get collapsing inward. All that this means is that there's too much length and outside seam. So all we need to do is pin out enough on our waste on our side. Seem to get it toe Hang straight. Once you've pinned this out, transfer whatever you've pinned onto a pattern and remember, once you've done this, you will still need to re measure your waist and adjusted if necessary. We always want to go back to our original waist measurement because I said these are just a few off the fit problems you might run into. There are others, of course, but these are definitely marries common.