No More Flat Paintings: Master Value and Contrast in Watercolor | Bianca Rayala | Skillshare
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No More Flat Paintings: Master Value and Contrast in Watercolor

teacher avatar Bianca Rayala, Top Teacher | Watercolor Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      About the Class

      2:16

    • 2.

      Materials

      3:34

    • 3.

      Tonal Value and Contrast

      11:09

    • 4.

      Watercolor Techniques

      11:56

    • 5.

      Tree Painting Exercise

      5:12

    • 6.

      Painting the Class Project

      13:38

    • 7.

      Final Thoughts

      2:11

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About This Class

Welcome to my class: No More Flat Paintings: Master Value and Contrast in Watercolor

In this class, we'll learn how to master value and contrast in your paintings to take your watercolor art to the next level. We start off by understanding the basics of tonal values and contrast and how to create a value thumbnail sketch. Then we’ll look at a variety of helpful watercolor techniques for creating gradients and transitions and how to incorporate tonal value with color.

We’ll also do some practical exercises on how to paint landscape elements with dimension then dive in to painting our class project. 

For our class project, I will walk you thru a step by step painting tutorial of this beautiful and quiet meadow where you'll have a deeper understanding of tonal values and the skills to infuse depth and impressionism into your watercolor paintings.

Meet Your Teacher

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Bianca Rayala

Top Teacher | Watercolor Artist

Top Teacher

Hi friends! I'm Bianca and I'm a watercolor artist. My purpose is to inspire people to discover and pursue their creative passion. See full profile

Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. About the Class: New to watercolor painting, you often wonder how to make your art better. You look at your work and feel that something's missing or not quite right, but you can't exactly figure out what it is. I faced the same question when I started painting. The key, more often than not is value and contrast. Learning to use these two elements well can make your paintings really stand out. Hello everyone. I'm Danka Ayala. I'm a watercolor and artist and educator. I'm also a Scotia top teacher. I work with brands like Tri Studio, Silver Brush, Limited, Schenke, Arcan Mounts, and all about Art International. I truly believe that painting is for everyone. Over the years I've taught thousands of students across the world and it's five purpose to inspire people to discover and pursue their creative fashion. In this class, we'll learn how to master value and contrast in your paintings to take your watercolor art to the next level. We start off by understanding the basics of tonal values and conscious and how to create values on sketch. And then we'll look at a variety of helpful techniques for creating gradients and, and how to incorporate tonal value with color. We'll also do some practical exercises on how to paint landscape elements with dimension. Then dive into painting our class project. For class project, I will walk you through a step by step painting tutorial of this beautiful and quiet meadow where you'll have a deeper understanding of tonal values and skills to infuse depth and impressionism into your watercolor painting. Make sure you have your watercolor supplies ready. You'll need watercolor paper, brushes, a palette, and some watercolor paints. Don't worry if you're still gathering some materials, you can watch and learn how and practice later. I also provided a free downloadable copy of the class handbook. We'll find the step by step painting instruction and reference for every exercise. This class is designed for everyone, whether you're just starting out or have some painting experience already, I'm sure you'll pick up something helpful to enhance your artwork. Ready to unlock the secrets of creating death in your painting. Let's get started. 2. Materials: Before we proceed to the lessons, let's take a look at the materials you'll need for the class. First, we need watercolor papers. Watercolor paper is specially designed to handle the flow of water and paint. Look for a medium weight, around 140 pounds or 300 CM paper. For most projects, you can choose between pads, blocks, or loose sheets. Depending on your preference, we will be doing a lot of practical exercises like tonal value exercise, value sketch, practice painting of trees, watercolor techniques, and the final landscape project encourage you to prepare some sheets for the class. When it comes to watercolor, you can choose between pan sets or to paints. The paints come in a wide range of colors. But I do like to use only a few selection of colors from Schminka and just mix and blend them to achieve your decided shades. The watercolor brushes I'm always using are these round brushes from silver brush, limited. This black brush is called Renaissance brush, which is made of real sable hair. This brush is great for painting washes because it absorbs water and paint really well. The purple one is silver silk 88 round brush size eight, which I use for fine details and painting landscape elements. Now for the parts of the brush, this is the handle, then this is the metal that holds the handle and bristles is called ferrule. Then, here's the bristles of the brush. For the bristles, the belly, while this is the tip of the brush. When choosing a brush, it's good to consider the flexibility of the bristles, the size of the belly, and the pointiness of the tip. A common mistake to watercolor painting is not being able to activate the paints really well, causing very pale washes. To activate the paints, you have to pre wet it first with water using your sprayer. Then gently rub your brush on the paint to get as much pigment. Let your brush get fully coated with paint. When your brush is fully coated, try different strokes that your brush can make like full belly stroke. You do this by laying the entire belly of your brush flat on the paper. You can try it in different directions. Next, try doing fine lines by removing the excess paint and water from your belly of the brush. And then apply very light pressure. You'll see how fine the lines your brush can create with this tip. For the paints in my palette, the colors I'll be using are yellow ochre, burn China, Kinacrodone magenta, cobalt turquoise, cobalt violet hue paints gray, olive green, indigo. Lastly, titanium white. We'll mix these colors to paint our landscape. Feel free to use other colors that you already have or you're comfortable using. Prepare also pencil eraser, tissue paper and masking tape for creating borders for the painting. You will be needing cups of water sprayer and a mixing palette for the mixing colors. These are all the materials you'll need. Let's talk about total value and contrasts in the next video. 3. Tonal Value and Contrast: It's every artist's goal to have a beautiful artwork. We challenge ourselves to improve our work and make it better. But have you experience looking at your painting, then, you know that something has to be improved. Something is missing or not quite right, but you can't figure out what exactly it is like you. I had the same feeling when I was starting out. Honestly, it normally comes down to tone and contrast. Learning how to master tonal value and contrast in your paintings will greatly improve your watercolor work. Unlike other medium, watercolor does not use y to get lighter colors. Rather, it uses water to change the value. Tonal value is the lightness, darkness of a color. A light value is transparent or very pale, and a dark value is rich, deep, and opaque. And we get different values in water color by adding more or less water to the mixture. A thick mixture of a lot of paint with a little water will give you a dark value, while a lot of water with only a touch of paint will be a light value. To better understand this is to create a value scale. Let's use paints gray or any neutral color to do this exercise. To better understand this is to create a value scale. Let's use paints gray or any neutral color to do this exercise. Here I make six columns and number each column, 1-61 being the lightest value, and six the darkest value. Since one is the lightest value, we will leave it unpainted, meaning we will have the original shade of the paper as the lightest value. Now the second to fifth columns are the mid values. Since we will adjust the amount of water and paint in creating different values, let's assign the ratio of water and paint four columns, two to five value two is made using 10% paint and 90% water. Value three is around 30% paint and 70% water. Value four is 50% paint and 50% water. Value five is 70% paint and 30% water, while value six is 90% paint and 10% water. Now get your brush and start making a mixture for value two, composing of mainly water and hint of paint. Then paint a rectangle on your paper. This will be our light value or value number two. Next, let's make value tumber three. We make a mix wherein we add a little bit more of paint in the water puddle. We must be able to see a slight change in value and value three has to be a little darker than two. For value four, we create a mix that is quite creamy inconsistency since it's a balance between water and paint. Here we can see that the paint is starting to be quite opaque and rich inconsistency for value five, just increase the amount of paint in your initial mix to get an even darker and more saturated paint. Lastly, do value six with a very minimal water in the mix. When you paint the rectangle, you'll notice that the paint barely flows. It's evidently thick and opaque. Look at your value scale now you should be able to get six distinct values out of paints. Gray from lightest to darkest value. Now here's the thing. A common mistake we commit, which results to a painting looking flat or off, is when you paint with just three or four values. However, when you place light tones next to dark tones correctly, you create contrasts which help give a sense of depth in your work. Contrast helps us create better composition. It leads and draws the viewer's attention to the focal point. And contrast is used to tell the story in your work or what is going on in the picture. To make it simple, the key to having a beautiful painting, a painting that doesn't look flat and give a sense of depth and dimension is contrast. Contrast is achieved when you master how to use each value in appropriate and specific parts of your painting. A painting has five basic parts, foreground, middle ground, background, horizon line, and focal point. Let's talk about each one briefly. First is the horizon line. It refers to a physical or visual boundary where the sky separates from land or water. It helps us to create perspective which makes a two D surface appear three dimensional by creating an illusion of depth. Next is the background. The background refers to the area or space in the distance. This is the sky and distant mountain in our subject. The middle ground occupies the space in between the background and foreground. This is where the focal point is usually located to create balance. The foreground refers to the nearest area in our painting. It is the grass and flowers in the lower right, closest to us. Lastly, the focal point, the center of interest in your painting, it's the part of the picture that we find naturally fascinating and want to know more about. Here, The tree and the flock of sheep are the focal points. Now, how do they relate to tonal value? We use dark tones for the foreground, light tones for the middle ground, where focal point is, and mid tones for the background, and mid tones for the background. A dark focal point on a middle ground pulls out the focal point, while the dark foreground draws the viewer's eyes into the central character. To better understand this, let's create a value sketch. And let's label each part of the painting with appropriate tonal value level. Let's do a simple sketch, make it just a small practice exercise Here, I'll draw the horizon line in the lower third part of the canvas. Next I'll draw the mountains at the background. A small one on the right and then a bigger one on the left. Then I draw the tree here on the left most side. Let's start painting using just one color which is paints gray to create a value sketch, we start with a background sky. We will be using mid tones for the background. Here we will apply tonal value four on the upper part of the sky, then gradually decreases to tonal value 3.2 as we reach closer to the horizon line. We do this gradual transition of tone to create sense of perspective, part of the background or the mountains here. When the sky is getting a bit dry, I'll make a mix of color with tonal value four to paint the mountains. Next, let's paint the middle ground, which is the part of the ground near the horizon line. I will use tonal value number two For this, we use light tones for the middle ground because it is where our focal point is. A dark focal point on a light middle ground pulls out the focal point, making it really stand out. Then as we move to the foreground, we gradually increase the value to 4.5 When painting the ground, just like what we did on painting the sky, we achieve aerial perspective when we change the tone. Now let's dry this completely, then paint the focal point with tonal value 5.6 I make sure to remove excess water from my brush to achieve this really nice thick paint. I will also use tonal value six to paint these grass blades in the foreground. Here we can see that even with just one color, we can create a painting with death, as long as we use appropriate tonal values on each part of the painting. 4. Watercolor Techniques: Watercolor techniques play a crucial role in watercolor painting. By mastering a variety of techniques, you can express a wide range of emotions and moods in your painting. They allow us to control the flow of paint and create precise details, build depth and dimension, and produce a wide range of textures that adds visual interest in our artwork. Let's look at the four fundamental techniques, wet and wet, wet and moist. Wet and dry and dry and dry. As I do a demo on each technique, I'll show you also how each technique can be applied in painting our class project. As I do a demo on each technique, I'll show you also how each technique can be applied in painting our class project. Let's start with wet on wet technique. Wet on wet is a technique where you apply wet paint onto a wet paper surface. This creates soft, diffused, and blended effects. It's perfect for creating backgrounds, skies or dreamy, seamless transitions between colors. To achieve these, wet your paper thoroughly with clean water. Then apply your paint. While the paper is still wet, the colors will flow and mingle, producing a beautiful soft wash. Let's do a color study using the wet Un technique. Here on my thumbnail sketch, I'll paint the background sky by first pre wetting the sky fragment with clean water. Afterwards using tortoise and a bit of violet, I'll paint it over. Remember the proper tonal value as you apply the paint, we still use value four in the upper part of the sky, then gradually decreasing the value to three in the middle part, and fading it out to value two near the horizon line. Our next technique is wet on dry. Wet on dry is a technique where you apply wet paint onto a dry paper surface. This method offers precise control over your brushwork. It's great for adding fine details, defining edges, and creating sharp, crisp lines. Start with dry paper and apply your paint directly. The colors won't blend as easily, allowing you to achieve clear and defined shapes. I use this technique for painting the background mountain, so we get a nice defined shape. Let's do it again in our color study. Make sure that the sky is thoroughly wet so you can paint wet on dry using green mix made of torquoise and yellow ochre. I'll paint the distant mountain. Refer to your Total Value Guide for the appropriate value for the mountain. We use value four for the other Monday on the right. I made it slightly darker to make it more distinct. Next is wet on moist. As the name suggests, it involves applying paint to a paper surface that is moist but not dripping wet. This technique allows for a bit more control than wet on wet, you can create softer edges and transitions in your painting, making it ideal for creating subtle gradients and layering colors. Simply moisten your paper with a brush. Wait for a few minutes for the paper to absorb the water a bit and then apply your paint. You will use this technique in painting the grassland. We begin by late paper wetting the grassland fragment. Wait for the water to get absorbed a little bit and then apply color. Starting with pale yellow, then transition to greenish yellow mix. And lastly, a dark, creamy green mix. Like what we did in the volume study, we did a tonal transition from two, then four, then five to create sense of perspective. Our last technique is dry and dry. Dry and dry, as the name implies, involves applying dry paint onto a dry paper surface. This technique results in bold, textured, and granulated effects. It's excellent for creating rough textures, adding intricate details, or layering without disturbing underlying colors. Simply use your dry brush or a dry pigment to apply paint to dry paper. I love using this for painting. Texture trees, tree trunks, intricate grass blades, and other details. Let's practice it on our color study. Make sure that the surface is really create a color mix in value five or six, meaning there is very little water in your brush. I start painting the crown of the trees with the belly of my brush, making very organic strokes. Then with the same thick consistency of brown paint, I paint the branches and chunk to connect it on the ground. I simply smudge the paint of using my finger. Let's practice painting the grass blades here on the foreground. Keep the paint mixed very thick to create very distinct strokes with very thick paint. In value number six, we can also paint impressions of flowers by simply dabbing the brush and creating dots of colors. I do the same when painting the impression of flock of ship. In the middle ground, I get white paint straight from the tube paint dots of white and then add shadow on the ground. Here, comparing our value sketch and color study, we can see that value and color work in harmony to give form, volume, and depth to objects in a painting. By using varying values in your painting, you can create contrasts between light and shadow. This contrast adds dimension and depth to your subjects. Also, when you combine different values with colors, you can achieve complex and realistic effects. 5. Tree Painting Exercise: Let's do a quick tutorial on how to draw and paint trees for a landscape. A common mistake when drawing trees are doing it like this. But instead of drawing it like how kids do, we first draw a slim trunk and then three ovals like this. From here we draw cloud outline. Then draw their branches and then thicken the trunk. Let's do it one more time now, starting from the clustered leaves, then we draw the branches. Lastly, the trunk, you may add another cluster here on the left to make it look fuller. Now to paint it, I get a green mix In value number five, I remove excess water from my brush and then with a dubbing stroke, I paint the outer part of the clusters. I don't fill in the space like coloring it with a pen. Doing that makes the tree more unnatural. Here we dab the belly of the brush paper until we fill in the fragment completely. Next, let's add a darker tone on the left side to create dimension, I add indigo to my green mix to make it darker in shade. Next, using bird ana. In value six, I paint the branches and the trunk with a synthetic brush. Keep the mix very thick and opaque to imitate the texture of the trunk. Then lastly, we paint the ground with a quick horizontal stroke. Add a bit of color under the trunk to connect the tree in the ground. Next, let's paint a cypress tree. I start with an oblong or columnar outline, then the trunk in the middle. I fully loaded the brush with paint and then do a vertical stroke from top to bottom. I let the full belly of the brush touch the paper. And then I do some angle dabbing strokes to create the shape of the cypress tree. Notice that my brush is dry, that's why I create those dry stroke and then paint the trunk, followed by the ground. Now that you've learned all the important principles and techniques, let's do our class project in the next lesson. 6. Painting the Class Project: Let's begin by doing a simple sketch similar to what we already did on our previous exercises. Let's start with the horizon line in the lower third part of the paper. Then I draw diagonal lines for the mountains at the back road. Next is the tree here on the left. Draw it the way we did in the previous practice lesson. And let's add another tree here on the right. I'll draw a light guide on the base of the trees. Then for the foreground, we'll add the grass blades with color. Let's add tiny dots here in the middle ground as impression of flocks of sheep in the meadow. Our drawing is complete. Let's lighten the sketch a bit before starting with painting. As we paint this, remember to apply the principles we've learned about tonal value, contrast, and watercolor techniques. Let's start by pre wetting the sky fragment with clean water. We do wet un, wet technique to paint the sky. Make sure to pre wet the surface evenly. If it's hard to make the paper wet with a brush, you may use a water sprayer as an extra help. Next, I activate my paints by missing them. I get torquoise and a bit of violet to diffuse the bright blue. I start painting the upper part of the sky with value four, then gradually decreases the tonal value by simply adding water to my brush. Here you'll see a gradation of blue from dark to light tone as you get close to the horizon line. To fasten the drying process, I take my heat gun and dry the sky fragment. You may dry it naturally, but be sure to wait for it to be completely dry before doing the next step, which is painting the mountains using wet on dry technique. Now using the same mix for the sky, I add a bit of violet and yellow ocher to create a cool green color for the mountains. I start with the one on the left. Be mindful of the tone. It has to be slightly darker than the middle part of the sky to show perspective, I also sprinkle some water on the layer to create nice, soft, misty texture. Now, I added some olive green in the existing mix to make it a bit creamier. You can also add some yellow ocher for a nicer color. I'll paint here the next mountain on the right. Since our consistency is a bit taker, you would see that the paint is not flowy anymore. Now let's paint the meadow with wet moist technique. It's okay if the paint from the mountain slightly bleeds to the surface since it has a very light tone. After covering the lower fragment with a bit of moisture, I started painting the middle ground with a very light yellow mix. Then a slowly transition to a mid tone green color. Then lastly, a dark green color using the same mix plus indigo. It is like using level number two. Level number four, and then level number five. Here you'll see a sense of perspective. Because of the smooth transition of color and tone, I let this dry completely again before painting the focal point, which is the tree. As we paint the trees, we'll do the dry, dry technique using olive green, indigo, and a bit of yellow ochre. Remove excess water from your brush and then paint the tree. I do the dabbing stroke with the belly of my brush. It's important to note that the tone has to be darker than the tone on the background mountains to make the trees pump out. While still Moise, I add some shadow on the trees by adding darker tones on the left side. Next, let's paint the trees on the right. Do the vertical stroke then enhance the overall shape with dabbing strokes. As I enhance the shape of the cypress tree, notice that I use a thicker and darker mix of color. I do this so that we can create shadows and dimension on the trees. I still do the dabbing strokes as I paint the shape. And then here I'm using a light yellow ochre to portray light. I also add some yellow ochre on the round tree on the left. Take your synthetic brush and get a thick brown color using burn anna to paint the branches and trunks. Make sure that your brush has almost no water in it to get a very defined and thick stroke. With my left over green paints, I connect the trees on the ground with a horizontal stroke. Next, let's paint the grass here in the foreground. With value number six, I use different shades of green for added interest. I suggest practicing the stroke to make it look more organic and not stiff or uniform for extra high light. I take pink straight from the tube and add dots of paint here in the foreground. You may also splatter some pink here and there. I add some white paints to add light in the foreground too. Then the last, let's paint this tiny ship in the middle ground with dots of white paint straight from the two. As you paint them, they should all lie within the horizon line. Then I mix white and burn hanna to create shadows for the shape. You don't have to be so particular on the shape. Even dots like this can create the impression. Don't forget to paint the shadow on the ground with a light green paint. The ship won't look floating. Let's add a bit of finishing touches here and there, and our final painting is complete. The carefully peeled off the tape to reveal the final painting. I hope you had a wonderful time painting this piece after learning the fundamentals of tonal value and watercolor techniques. Hope this inspires you to paint more landscape pieces. So I'll see you in the last video for my final tips. 7. Final Thoughts: Thank you so much for joining this class. I want to congratulate you on completing this journey from start to finish. I hope you've gained valuable insights and techniques that will make your artwork even better. Remember, mastering the art of depth in your painting is an ongoing process. And each stroke of your brush brings you one step closer to your goal. Very useful tools for you in this video player where you can pause and play the video. There's a little button that will allow you to rewind 15 seconds if you need me to repeat what I've just said. You can also just how fast or slow the video plays. And you can also turn on captions in different languages for this class. If you have any questions or need further guidance down the road, please don't hesitate to reach out. I encourage you also to stay connected with your fellow students. Share your progress and inspire one another to upload your class project and resource section so I can see it and share feedback about your work. When you add your project, be sure to include a link to your Instagram so that anybody who's curious about your work can find more about you. I also provided the downloadable copy of the reference and final painting in the resource section of the class to help you in creating your class project. Encourage you also to take my other class to further help you in your practice. Watercolor for beginners techniques to paint landscape. In this class, you will learn powerful and effective strategies to loosen up your painting style and to create captivating masterpieces using watercolor in wide variety of techniques. Watercolor, ocean waves, paint with depth using tonal value. Using the knowledge gained on tonal value, learn a simplified way of painting escapes, and ocean waves, I can't wait to see what you have created. Don't forget to share your work on Instagram and tag me at Bankaayala so I can share it to our community. Remember, artistic expression is a powerful tool, not only for your personal growth, but also for making a difference in others. Paint to inspire paint from the heart. Let's keep on creating see you in my other classes.