Transcripts
1. Welcome to Mixed Media Sewing: Hi, welcome to
Mixed Media Sewing. My name is Amy Plante and I'll be showing you how to
combine painting, embroidery, and sewing to create something
entirely unique. As a multi-passionate creative, I often find myself bouncing
from one medium to the next, never wanting to tie myself
to one particular craft. Over the years, I've
explored everything from garment construction to
palette knife painting, to clay sculpture to
tapestry weaving. Painting and textiles are
two arts in particular that I've been passionate
about for most of my life. When I started
experimenting with painting on fabric and clothing, I knew I had found
something special. The fluid gestures of
using a paintbrush are a refreshing contrast to the steady hand of
sewing stitches. This exciting
combination results in a finished product that is worth more than the sum of its parts. In this course,
I'll show you that dynamic in action as we create a versatile zipper pouch using three different
creative techniques. My approach to this
class allows for plenty of flexibility
and skill level. There are templates and
techniques for beginners, as well as suggestions for more advanced
creators who want to put their own spin
on the project. As with all of the
projects I share with you, there's a ton of
room for exploration and experimentation. It's so easy to immerse
yourself in the process, playing with different
textures and discovering new methods
of mark making. By the end of this course, you'll be inspired to combine
your different skills in new ways to define your own
unique style and voice. If you find yourself in
a creative rut or you're feeling a bit scatterbrained from all your different hobbies. Mixed media sewing might
be just the thing to get you excited about your
creative process again. So grab some thread and a paintbrush and
let's get started.
2. Class Project: Class Project. In this class, we'll
create a lined zippered pouch using
three different mediums, painting, embroidery, and sewing. By using this mixed
media approach, you'll end up with
something unique, luxurious, and one-of-a-kind. I've designed this project to be accessible for all skill levels. I'll take you
through the process step-by-step, medium by medium, providing detailed
instructions for beginners, as well as ideas for more advanced creators
who want to take the project
to the next level. There's so much room for
creativity with this class. And I encourage you
to have fun with color choice and mark-making. In the downloadable PDF that
accompanies this class, you'll find sewing
patterns along with three different
illustrations you can trace onto your project. These illustrations
will be our guides for painted details and
embroidery stitch lines. However, if you like to draw, I encourage you to get creative with your own line drawings. I'll go over material
recommendations in the next lesson, but you'll also
find a full list of tools and materials
in the PDF guide. I encourage you to
document your project along different stages
of the process, as mixed media art tends to
go through a fun evolution as you work on it. Please upload photos
of your process and or your finished piece to
the project gallery to inspire other students. Coming up next, I'll give you my tips and recommendations for the best
materials for this project.
3. Material Recommendations: Material Recommendations. When you're considering
which materials to use for a mixed media
project such as this, you'll want to take into account a number of different factors. Let's start with
fabric selection. Since we're using
three different crafts for this project, we'll want to consider
the pros and cons of different
fabrics for each one. When painting on fabric, it may be easier to paint on a heavier fabric such as canvas. However, you will find
that heavy fabrics are more difficult to
sew and embroider. On the other hand, we're
making a zippered pouch and don't want a fabric that will be too delicate for everyday use. You'll also want to
consider the texture of the fabric as certain weaves like twill or denim can make detailed painting and
embroidery more challenging. If you're using fabric
paints that are heat set, you'll want to pick
a fabric that can withstand a hot iron
such as cotton. So taking all of
these factors into account for this
particular project, you should look for a smooth
textured cotton fabric in a medium weight.
I find cotton sateen is a great choice
because it's slightly heavier than muslin and has a smooth
finished for painting on. For the pouch lining, I recommend quilting
cotton as it is thin and comes in a wide range
of fun colors and patterns. For the painting element
of this project, there are a few different
paints you can choose. My favorite paint to
work with is actually a water-based screen
printing ink by Permaset. Even though it's designed
for screen printing, you can use a brush with it. It also cleans up easily and after you've heat
set it with an iron, it provides a durable
and opaque finish. Since it's water-soluble,
I will also sometimes thin it down to
create watercolor effects. This is a thick paint, so it's great for
artists that are used to painting with oils or acrylics. If you're looking for a
more affordable option, any craft store or paint
that is intended for use on fabrics will work
great for this project. Ideally, look for a fabric paint that requires you
to heat set it, as those tend to be
the most permanent. Fabric paints tend to have a similar field to
acrylic paints. If you're used to working with thin paints like watercolors, you could try silk paints. As the name suggests, silk paints work best
on actual silk in the way they flow and blend
on the delicate fibers. But I encourage you
to experiment and see what effects you
can get on cotton. Silk paints are also fixed
by using a hot iron. Now if you absolutely
don't want to go out and purchase
fabric paint, you can use watercolors or
acrylics for this project. Just be aware that they
will likely not be permanent and may
flake or wash away. I always try to
pick the best tools for my project in case I make something I really love and I want it to last a long time. Finally, let's talk
about embroidery thread. Embroidery thread or embroidery
floss is easy to find at any craft store and is both affordable and perfect
for this project. The multi-threaded design means you can either work
with it as is, or pull out one or more threads to create thinner stitches. This is the thread
that I recommend for the embroidery aspect
of this project. You can of course get
creative and play around with different types
of thread you have on hand. Just be aware that heavier
threads such as yarn, may be more difficult to
pull through the fabric. And lighter threads, such as
all-purpose sewing thread, may not show up as
well in the design. There are few other materials you'll need for this project, and they're all outlined in the downloadable PDF guide
that accompanies this class. So be sure to check that out. We're about ready to
dive into this project. But first, let's quickly recap the material recommendations
for this project. For fabric, I
recommend a smooth, medium weight cotton,
such as cotton sateen. Any fabric paint will work
well for this project, my favorite is Permaset
screen printing ink. You'll also need
embroidery floss, which you can find
at any craft store or sewing supply shop. See the full supply list for this project by
downloading the PDF guide. Now it's time to make
our pouch. We'll complete this project in three stages,
starting with painting.
4. Part I: Painting: Part one: painting. Let's make our pouch. Normally with a sewing project, the first step is to cut out the pattern pieces
of your fabric. However, when you're adding mixed media elements
to your fabric, such as painting embroidery, usually it's easier to add those before you've cut
out your patterns. It's much easier to
draw and paint on a large flat surface than to work on something
smaller with seams. Embroidery is also much
easier with a larger piece of fabric that can stretch easily
over an embroidery hoop. Hand stitching can
also sometimes warp the shape of your fabric if
your stitches are too tight, which is very common
with beginners. So it's best to
leave the cutting until you get to
the sewing stage. Before we dip our paint brushes, Let's pick a design. In the PDF guide, I provided three different designs
for you to trace, but you're more than welcome
to come up with your own. If you decide to draw your own, I would recommend doing a
simple line drawing which will provide the template
for you to embroider along. Each of the three templates are designed to fit within the five by seven dimensions of
the finished zone pouch. Before you trace the design, draw a five by seven
inch rectangle on your fabric
lightly in pencil. It is important that
the rectangle is on the straight of
grain of your fabric. Straight of grain means
that two sides of the rectangle are parallel with the selvedge edge of your fabric. The selvedge is the
finished edge, not the cut edge. Draw your rectangle a few inches or more away
from the selvedge so you have extra fabric to stretch over your
embroidery hoop later. Cut out around the rectangle, leaving several inches of
extra fabric as a border. Now trace the design
within your rectangle. If you don't have a printer, you can hold up
the fabric against your computer screen
and trace over it. In fact, I often
prefer to trace this way as the computer
mimics a lightbox. Just make sure you have the
PDF display at a 100% scale, and the rectangle you drew lines up with the rectangle
on the template. You can trace the design as is, or pick and choose
certain elements to create your own design. Once you're done,
it's time to paint. You can approach
this in a few ways. You can fill in the shapes
in a more traditional way. You can do a more
gestural style by following the template
with stylized brushstrokes. Or you can get more
detailed by using a finer brush to add
shadows and highlights. You can even ignore the
drawing completely and create bursts of color for a
more abstract design. Try thinning your
paints with water to create muted watercolor effects. If you're working
with silk paints or another type of thin paint, try pre-wetting your
fabric to create blooms of color when you
touch your brush to it. Mix up the sizes of
your brushes to create a variety in your mark
making and add interest. Whether your style
leans more towards traditional or completely wild, now's the time to have
fun and experiment. Just keep in mind that the
thicker you apply your paint, the more difficult it will
be to embroider over. When you're finished, let
your fabric dry and follow the instructions on your paint
label for how to set it. In my case, my paints needs to be heat set with a hot iron. I'm using a pressing cloth, which can be any scrap piece of cotton fabric, over my piece to protect both my design and the iron as I press
different sections, holding in 15 seconds bursts. Be sure to press the
back as well. As a last step, iron the entire piece of fabric so it's ready
for embroidery. Let's go over the key points
of painting on fabric. Whenever you want to add a painted element to
your sewing project, it's easiest to paint
before you cut or sew. Draw a five by seven inch
rectangle guide so you know your pattern piece will be on the straight of grain. If you don't have a printer, use your computer screen as a light box to
trace your design. Try different techniques
with your painting, switching up your brush size, adding water to your paint, or painting on wet fabric. Heat set your painting
with an iron if required. Now it's time to move on to
the next medium, embroidery.
5. Part II: Embroidery: Part two: embroidery. Embroidery can be an
intimidating craft to try, but the method I'll show you keeps it simple and accessible. We're going to use hand
stitching to accent the lines in our design using the template
you traced as a guide. I'm going to show you two
different embroidery stitches that work really well
for this technique. Let's start with the backstitch. Drape the fabric over
the smaller hoop, that's the one that doesn't have the adjustable screw, centering
your design in the middle. If your design is too big
to fit within the hoop, pick a part of the design
you want to start with. You can always remove your hoop and readjust if necessary. Now put the outside hoop on top, sandwiching the fabric between the two hoops and gently
pulling it taught. Adjust the screw to keep
the outer hoop in place. Thread your embroidery
floss through a needle, leaving one tail short and tying a double knot at the
end of the long tail. Starting from the back, pull the needle
through to the front. I usually like to
start at the end of the line or at a corner. Bring the needle back
through the fabric to make a single stitch about a
quarter of an inch long. Now bring your needle back through to the front
of the fabric, coming up a quarter of an inch away from your first stitch, following the pencil
line as a guide. Bring the needle
back through to make a stitch that touches
the first stitch, passing back through the
second hole you made. You've just completed
a backstitch. Use this stitch to embroider
along your design. When you've completed a row, finish with your needle
at the back of your fabric, tying off the thread with a not. Don't worry too much
if you have trouble keeping your stitches
the same length. The beauty of the
backstitch is that it looks like one continuous line. So uneven stitch
length is harder to see than with other
kinds of stitches. You can use this one
stitch style for your entire project if you wish. To switch up
your line work, try pulling some threads out of the embroidery floss to create a thinner line when you stitch. Create added
dimension by running parallel stitch lines along
your initial embroidery. Experiment with longer or
shorter stitch lengths. There's a lot of
room for creativity, even if you only
use a backstitch. If, on the other hand, you're craving more
of a challenge, give the chain stitch a try. At the start of your line, pull the thread up through
the fabric from the back, pulling until you
reach the knot, then pass the needle from the front back through
the hole you just made. Don't pull the
thread all the way. Leave a loop in the front. Now bring the needle back
through to the front, coming up on the line about a quarter inch away
from your first hole, making sure to catch
the loop you just made. You can now gently pull
the thread taught, having caught the loop
with your needle. You are now back at step one
and can put the needle back through the hole you just made
leaving a loop as before. When you're done with a row, use a single stitch to hold
the last loop in place, finishing at the
back with a knot. This style of stitch
gives the look of one continuous chain and is excellent for creating
bolder lines in your design. I like to use both the chain and backstitch to create
variety in my mark-making. As you embroider, be
aware of your tension. If you pull the thread too tight when you're
making your stitches, your fabric will be puckered and warped when you take
it off the hoop. This is very common if
you're new to embroidery, try to have a light touch when you pull your
stitches through and use an iron to smooth out any wrinkles
when you're done. Let's recap embroidery. Sandwich your
fabric on your embroidery hoop, centering the design
as best you can. For a simple line design, use a backstitch to
create a continuous line. For a thicker line, use the chain stitch
for added dimension. Change up the look
of your stitches by removing threads from the embroidery floss or
varying your stitch length. Try to keep a light
tension to your stitches to avoid puckering and
warping the fabric. Give the fabric
a press with an iron when you're done. With our
fabric painted and embroidered, we're ready to move on
to the final stage, sewing our pouch.
6. Part III: Sewing: Part three: sewing.
Now we're ready to sew our pouch together. If you're able to
print and cut out the sewing pattern
for this project, you can use that as a template
to cut out your fabric. Otherwise, you can simply create your own patterns by drawing a six by eight inch rectangle. You'll need to cut
out two rectangles out of your main fabric, including the piece you painted, and two rectangles out of your lining fabric for a
total of four pattern pieces. When cutting out
your painted panel, center your original five by seven rectangle to ensure
proper placement of the design. I find it easier to draw
some rough guidelines a half inch away from the original
five by seven rectangle. Your rectangle may have warped slightly from
your embroidery, so use the six by eight inch
template to cut around to ensure your final front
pattern piece will match up with the rest
of your pattern pieces. Remember to cut your rectangles
on the straight of grain, as we discussed before. For a detailed explanation
of fabric grain, be sure to check
out my other class, One Pillow: Seven Sewing
Machines Skills. With the fabric cut out, we're ready to begin sewing. First, we'll install the zipper. You should have a seven
inch closed end zipper, as mentioned in the materials
list for this course. If you've never installed
a zipper before, it can be a bit tricky. But this method is one
of the easier ones. We're sewing at a half
inch seam allowance, but the zipper tape only has enough room for a quarter
inch seam allowance. So to get around
that we'll move it a quarter inch away from
the edge of the fabric. On the top horizontal edge of your two outside
fabric pieces, draw a line a quarter inch
away from the edge and pencil line up your
zipper along this line, face down and pin in place. I lined up the top of
the zipper tape with the edge of the fabric
so it'd be easy to match the placement on my
other pattern piece when it was time to sew the other
side of the zipper. However you line it up, make sure that the
metal pieces at the top and bottom
of the zipper don't intersect with the half
inch seam placement because your needle will break
when you sew across it. Ideally, you'll have a
zipper foot attachment for your sewing machine, which is designed to
sit off to the side to account for the rays
teeth of the zipper. You should follow your machines instructions for installing and using a zipper
foot. For my machine. I need to move my
needle all the way to one side so it doesn't
hit the zipper foot. If that's the case with yours, remember to account
for this when using the seam allowance
guidelines on your machine. Because we're sewing at a
half inch seam allowance and I've moved my needle over
an eighth of an inch, I'll need to use
the three-eighths inch guideline on my machine. Begin by back stitching to lock your seam, then so
your zipper on, remembering to keep your needle a half inch away from
the fabric edge, not the edge of the zipper tape. At the end of the seam
backstitch in place. Repeat this process for the
other outside fabric piece, making sure that the right
side of the zipper is facing the right side of the
fabric piece and keeping the zipper in the same horizontal
placement as you did on the first piece so that the two pattern pieces
will be aligned. If your fabric tape
is sticking out at the bottom, clip the ends. Now we're going to sandwich
our lining pieces onto the zipper using
the stitch lines we already sewed as a guide. Start with one lining piece, lining up the top edge with
one of the fabric panels, keeping right sides together, wrong sides facing out. Pin along the top edge with
the outside fabric facing you so that the original
stitch line will be visible to you
when you sew it. Sew along the stitch line, back stitching at the
beginning and end of your seam as we did before. Repeat this process with the second lining panel on
the other side of the zipper. Iron your seams,
keeping the fabric away from the zipper
to create crisp edges. Even though we're
working with cotton fabric make sure your iron is set to the synthetic setting as most zippers are
made of nylon or polyester. Top stitch about an
eighth of an inch away from the same lines to create a crisp edge and polished
finish around your zipper. Unzip the zipper about
three-quarters down in preparation for
the next step. Bring the two lining pieces together with right
sides facing each other and the two outside pieces together with right
sides facing each other. We're going to sew around
the perimeter of the bag, leaving a roughly three inch gap open at the bottom of
the lining pieces. The middle seam will probably
be bulky during this step, but line up the pieces
as best you can, starting with the outer
corners. At the middle seam, move the seam allowance
towards the lining, folding the zipper in half
and lining up the seams on top of each other. When
everything is pinned, sew around the outside at a
half inch seam allowance, starting your stitch line at the bottom of the lining pieces. Pivot at the corners. Go slowly when you get to the zipper using the hand crank, if you have to. You may be sewing over zipper
teeth at this part, so you'll just want
to be careful. Remember to end your stitch line before you reach
your starting point, leaving a few inches open on the bottom. Backstitch to finish. Clip your corners and
iron open your seams, creating a half-inch
fold at the opening. Do this on both sides. Turn your pouch
inside out through the gap you left and
the zipper opening, pushing out the corners and leaving the lining hanging out. Pin the gap closed. We're going to hand sew a simple slip stitch to close the gap. Thread, your needle tying
both ends into a double knot. Insert the needle from inside the gap coming out
through one of the folds. Insert your needle directly
across to the other side, making a small stitch that is hidden within the other fold. Continue in this way along
the length of the gap. You may find it easier to
create two stitches at once. When you get to the end, either tie off a
double knot or backstitch by sewing a single
stitch multiple times. Bring your needle
in and out through the outside of the fabric
and clip to hide the tail. Put the lining back into
the pouch and zip close. Before we wrap up, let's quickly go over some of the sewing tips
for this project. Always be sure to cut your
pattern pieces on grain. Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine
for the best results. Top stitch around your zipper
for a neat finished look. When sewing something
that needs to be turned out, leave a small gap, and hand stitch closed using a
slip stitch. And we're done! Remember to take a photo of your finished piece
and upload it to the project gallery to inform
and inspire other students. I can't wait to see
what you've created.
7. Take it to the Next Level: Congratulations on completing your mixed media sewing project! I hope you had fun exploring and experimenting in
different mediums. Now that you've
gotten your feet wet, here are some other
project ideas to inspire you to keep going
with these techniques. Create your own appliques
by cutting around your design and stitching
onto a backpack or a jacket, or paint and stitch directly
onto a pair of jeans or denim jacket
for bespoke upgrade. Create your own
textiles by painting abstract patterns onto fabric, adding embroidered accents. Use your one-of-a-kind
of fabric to make throw pillows or
small accessories. Think beyond the paintbrush
and use rubber stamps, leaves and sponges to create textural effects
with your paint. Leave your embroidered painting on the embroidery hoop and hang it up for unique
tactile wall art. Once you've found your freedom
in mixed media craft, I know you'll be
inspired to incorporate it into your other
favorite mediums. If you share your
creations online, be sure to tag me on Instagram
and TikTok @art.witch_ so I
can see what you've made. Thank you so much for
taking Mixed Media Sewing. As always, keep in touch
and happy sewing.
Amy Plante, Multi-Passionate Creative
