Transcripts
1. Introduction: [MUSIC] Hi everybody. My
name is Keren and I'm a graphic designer and
illustrator based in New Zealand. I have an advanced diploma in advertising and graphic design, and I do a little
bit of everything from vector illustration, patent design, web design, and of course, graphic design. One of the big challenges with creativity is that
sometimes we can sit down to start something and
just not know what to do. We sit in front of a blank page and we can't seem to start. Nothing seems to be working. So it's great at those times to have
some techniques to help you get back in touch with your creative side and
start the ball rolling. I've got a few
different ways to help me get out of my own
head a little bit, and one of these is pointillism, and it's also a
great art technique. It uses small dots of
color instead of lines. Much how a printer prints out a page and it's made up
of all those small dots. So the reason I've created this class is to introduce
you to this method, and hopefully when you
are feeling stuck, it will help you out. I've designed the project with all levels in line so even if you've never tried pointillism or you're not even that arty, there's a choice of project which is very quick
and easy and shouldn't take more than an hour
of your time and I really encourage you
to try it anyway. The tools I'll be using for the class are an iPad and pencil and I'll also do a version on a desktop with a drawing tablet. Lines awakened interests Pro. The software I'll be using is Procreate on the iPad and
Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop on the desktop. But I'll be going through
some alternatives if you don't have these. During the class,
I'll be covering everything you need
to know to create your pointillism art piece
from planning to completion, and we'll also cover some
tips on color, blending mode, and a little bit about how
the brain works so you can really appreciate how
great this technique is. As with every Skillshare class, there is a project to complete. You can follow along and finish a stage of your
project after each lesson, or you can just watch
all the lessons and finish the
project at the end. Once you have completed
your project, I would love to see it
and hear about what you thought of the technique
and the process. You can hit over to
the project area and just click on
"Create Project", where you can upload
your JPEG and just make some notes about
how you think it went. If you're ready to jump in, I will see you in the
next video. [MUSIC]
2. Project Overview: Let's take a look now what to expect for the class project. I wanted to design it so that it's suitable
for most people, so you have a choice of difficulty levels from
beginner to advanced. If you've never done any
point to listen before, I'd recommend starting
with the beginner project, but it really does come down to the amount of time
you can spend on it. In the Project Resources, you can download a
guide where I've broken everything
down into steps and giving you an
idea of the amount of dots and the time
it should take. This also follows
the same process I'll be going through
in the lessons. I've also created template files for both Illustrator
and Procreate with the reference
image prepared for you and the color palette
and grid already done, so you can just go in
and start dotting. The appropriate templates have separate color swatch
files that you can click on and
load into Procreate. Keep in mind while
completing your project, that it's more about the
process than the finished work, so I encourage you to
experiment and have fun, even if your app doesn't turn
out quite how you planned. If you're someone who
doesn't have Procreate, I'd recommend Adobe
Fresco as an alternative. It's a free app for the iPad, and it has a very
similar interface and tools to both the
Illustrator and Procreate. If you don't have
Adobe Illustrator, there are a few
alternatives you can look into to create vector graphics, namely CorelDRAW, Inkscape,
and Affinity Designer. The benefit of working in
vectors is that you can scale the artwork without
losing any quality, which makes it extremely versatile for printing
or digital use. Once you've finished
your project, export it as a JPEG and upload it to the project
gallery so you can get some feedback and inspire
other people like you who are facing exactly
the same challenges. Of course, let me know
what you thought of the pointillism process and
if it was beneficial to you. A side note for sharing
your art on social media. If you google free
wall art mockups, there are a heap of great
Photoshop files where you can mock up your art and
make it look amazing. This also keeps your
original art at a lower resolution and harder for other people to use
without permission. You can also export a
Procreate time-lapse. These are, however, quite slow, so you will need to use
video editing software to make it quicker and cut out any bits you
don't want to show, like experimental brush strokes. Get your iPad or
your computer ready, head over to the Projects area, and we'll jump straight
in to the first lesson.
3. Getting to the Point: [MUSIC] Pointillism
is a painting technique popularized in the late 1800s that uses distinct dots of pure and
mixed color to form an image. The placement of the dots takes advantage of the way the
eyes and the brain of the viewer
automatically translate them into a more complex image. This technique resembles the way computer screens
use pixels today. Pointillism is characterized
by its application of pure colors because
it was discovered that rural pigments were able to hold their saturation and luminosity
when left unblended, resulting in more
vibrant images. Another characteristic
of pointillism is that the detail appears when the artwork is viewed
at a distance. This is again down
to the fact that it uses the minimum suggestion of color and shape and relies on the viewer's brain to
fill in the blanks. An art technique
called stippling, first used by an Italian
engraver in the 1500s, also uses small dots
to create an image. Stippling is most often done in black and white pen and ink, whereas pointillism makes
use of colored paint. With both techniques, if the dots are placed
more closely together, the shade or tone will
be more pronounced. These days pointillism
artists have a choice of traditional
and digital mediums. With digital art, you have
a lot of options with different brushes
and the ability to experiment and change
the finished artwork. So we see a lot of really
interesting variations in dot size, shape, and color. Not only is pointillism
a great way to create vibrant and
detailed artwork, it's also a relaxing and
meditative way to work. The act of dotting,
although time-consuming, can also be calming
similar to the process of cross stitching or
the gym art kits that you can buy for kids. There is something about it that helps to break into
another frame of mind and simply be
in the here and now. How this actually works is
still a bit of a mystery. There are many conceptual
models of how the brain works. One of the most widely known, the left and right brain model, assigns logical tasks to the left hemisphere of the brain and creative tasks to the right. The book, Drawing on
the Right side of the Brain by Betty Edwards
uses this model to help explain how to shift into the right brain mode
to be able to draw better. If the conscious thinking
and defining part of the brain is kept busy
with a challenging task, it doesn't try to
jump in and take over what the other part of the
brain is trying to do. Each part of the
mind has a job to do and they work
together in harmony. The takeaway here is regardless of the
model we place on it, the brain has
predictable behaviors, like achieving what's
known as a state of flow through creative activities that are challenging but doable. As you'll soon see,
pointillism can be one way to experience this
state of flow firsthand.
4. Beginner iPad + Procreate: [MUSIC] Now let's try
out some pointillism on a beginner project. Firstly, we need to
decide what to draw. It's a good idea when you're
first starting out to use a reference image
and for this project, a portrait-style photo
will work the best. You can use your own
image or head to a royalty-free photo
site like Unsplash. Look for a picture
without large areas of the same color and one that
has a simple background. I've found a photo of
comic book artist Stanley. I'm going to open up my image in Photoshop and I'm going to crop it to a fixed
ratio of three to four. You can drag a selection box over your image and it will give you fixed proportions of
three wide and four high. Next, we're going to
change the image size. What I want to do
is make it really small so I can see the
individual pixels. I'm making sure I have pixels selected as my units of
measurement and then I'll enter in a width of 90 and the height should
automatically adjust to 120. If it doesn't just hit
Command Z to undo and press the constrained proportions box beside the width
and height inputs. We can see now that the
image is really small. A little keyboard shortcut
to zoom in or out quickly is to press Command
Zero on your keyboard. Now we'll go into
index color mode and this panel opens up
where you can adjust how many colors you
want in the image. Now, if you try to enter
a small number of colors, photoshop doesn't let you. To get around this, I'm going
to select black and white. Make sure you uncheck the
transparency box and then enter in two colors which
will be black and white. If you wanted to make a black-and-white
drawing from this, that would be fine but it's actually the same amount
of dots to work in color on this
project and I think the result looks better
at the end of the day. Back inside index color, now that we have two colors in our black and
white selection, go ahead and select Custom from the drop-down and this will come up with a color picker
panel where you can select and add custom colors. I like to be fairly
accurate with my colors so I'm
entering values in. I've chosen red from the RGB inputs which has a
scale for each color from zero being no color to 255 being full color of
red, green, or blue. This is because it's
a number based on encoding in machine language
for working with screens. I'm also picking blue
at the full value of 255 with a zero selected
on the other inputs. For the last color,
I prefer the look of yellow rather than sticking
with RGB model of green. I'm entering in 100 percent
yellow in the CMYK area, making sure to put
zero in the C, M, and K inputs. Then we can say that
the image has been limited to only
those five colors. If you're using your own image and it doesn't look quite right, you can go in and adjust the
brightness and contrast so that any large areas of the
same color had minimized. You might want to also
have a play around with the date settings to
see what looks best. I like the look of
diffusion the best. Once you've finished
resize the image backup to 900 by 1,200 pixels. Mine looks a bit
funny here because I missed the resizing step and re-opened the exported image
but it's still okay to use. You can zoom in
and out to see how the image looks
more realistic from a distance and get an idea of what your finished
art should look like. The next step is to export
it as either a JPEG or a quick PNG and you have a reference image
ready to work with. Now that we've got
our reference image, let's open a new
file in procreate. Press the button beside
the new Canvas heading and entering 900
by 1,200 pixels. Then place the reference image by pressing the spanner icon. The next step is optional
but you can create a grid to use as a guide for your
dots by pressing Canvas, drawing guide and
edit drawing guide. Here I'm setting the grid to 10 by 10 pixels and adjusting the color
so it's more visible. Now press the little n on the right of the layer
panel to bring up the layer options
and you can adjust the opacity of the reference
layer to around 50 percent. Swipe left and lock the layer and create a
new layer to work on. You might want to experiment
with some brushes first, procreate has heaps
of native brushes installed and you can also find lots of downloadable
brushes online. To keep things simple here, I'm going to use the marker
brush in the inking brushes. It makes a nice round
mark but you can also click on the brush to go
in and edit the appearance. I'm just leaving it on the
default settings for now. Pull down the top slider on the left-hand side to
adjust the brush size. Our grid size is 10 by 10
pixels so I'm going to make the brush size fit
inside one grid square. Have a play around
and see how it looks. You can easily clear
the layer by clicking on it in the layer panel
and hitting Clear. One more thing to do before you start is to get all
your colors ready. The easiest way
sometimes to do this is to grab the colors from
the reference image. I've unlocked it again and changed the
opacity back to 100, and I'm just pressing
a finger down on the color I want and
that will select it. You can create a new
color palette here or do what I've done and make a new layer with
the colors on it, off to the side of
your working area. If you do this, make
sure to lock it so you can't accidentally
work in the wrong layer. Set the opacity of
your reference layer and lock it and then
you're ready to stop. I like to work from dark to light colors so I'm
starting with black. Generally, with
traditional painting if you're right-handed, you'd start from the top
left corner and work down but because we are in
danger of smudging our work, you can really start
anywhere you prefer. Being in procreate we can also rotate the Canvas if we need to. One last thing you
might want to adjust is the pressure sensitivity by hitting the spinner
and going into preferences and
pressure and smoothing. I've adjusted mine
here so I don't have to tap very hard
to make them knock. This just saves any
extra weight on your pencil and
on your hand too. A few things to keep in
mind while you're working, it might take a little
while to settle into your own dotting
rhythm but I found a quick three dots in succession
was natural for me. I also started doing one
section at a time around a sixth of the image before
moving onto the next section. Zoom in and out to
check on your progress. It can be really rewarding seeing everything start
to come together. Once you've finished one color, lock the layer and create a
new one for the next color. I'm ignoring the blue dots
in the background and just focusing on stands,
head and shoulders. [MUSIC]. Once your layers are done, check for any dots you've missed and go and fill those in.
5. Beginner Desktop + Illustrator: The desktop version of
our beginner project, I've chosen a photograph of
Joni Mitchell as a reference, and I've used the
same process inside Photoshop to crop
the image to a ratio of three to four and resize
it to 90 by 120 pixels. Then use index color to limit the colors to black,
white, red, blue, and yellow, and size the image backup to
900 by 1,200 pixels. Open up a new file
in Illustrator with a custom size of 900 by 1,200 pixels and place your reference image
using File Place. Next, let's add the image
colors into the color palette. One way I like to do this is by making a square shape beside the image and using the
eyedropper to select colors. In the swatches panel, click the drop-down and
add selected color. After picking the colors, go to the layer
panel drop-down and change your reference
layer to template, which will automatically adjust the opacity and lock the layer. Then add a new layer above the template to
start working on. To make a grid go
to preferences, guides, and grids, and set a grid line every 10
pixels with one subdivision. I've also changed the color
so I can see it better. To turn the grid on and off, go up to View and
show or hide grid. There's also a keyboard
shortcut of Command and the apostrophe key
to make things quicker. I'll be going into
Illustrator brushes in the next lesson. But for now, I'm selecting the blob brush tool
to make my dots. I want the size to be
pretty close to 10 pixels, and a quick keyboard shortcut
to increase or decrease the brush size is by pressing Command and the
square bracket keys. I'm starting with black and once again working in sections, creating a new layer for each color and locking
layer when I finish.
6. Intermediate iPad + Procreate: [MUSIC] For the intermediate
pointillism project, I'll be making a pet
portrait this time using more dots at a slightly
larger image size. I've chosen a royalty-free
reference image with a white background so I can
focus on this adorable dog. I'm going to get it
ready inside Photoshop. If you're short on time
or don't have Photoshop, you can skip this step and go straight to the template
files I've made up. The first thing we
want to do is crop the image to a
fixed ratio of 3:4. You might want to have
a few go's at this to get the composition
looking good. Just as an experiment, I'm going to change the image
size this time to 1200 by 1600 pixels and 72 DPI is good, so we can see the
individual pixels. Next, we'll go to index color and choose black and white, making sure there are two
colors in the input box. Then if we zoom in,
you can see how the pixels make up the image and just how much
detail you could achieve if you make the
dots so really small. At this size, you'd have to make well over a million dots. For this project though,
we don't want to be spending 10 times longer
than what we need to. I will go in and we'll
make this size 120 by 160 and head into
index color once more. Even though this image
is a lot more simple, it's still quite
incredible how it comes together when it's
viewed from a distance. I'm going to select Custom from the drop-down menu and
enter in some colors. I want to try and emulate the early pointillism artists and the colors they
used in their work. I've googled RGB codes for artists' paint colors
and found a website with a really strange name that references hex codes for
physical paint colors. I'm choosing primary
red, yellow, and blue. I also want to use
secondary colors. I found another website
which allows you to enter two colors and blend them
together to make a third, just like how you'd make
secondary colors using paint. Now we have a total
of eight colors, black and white plus
primaries and secondaries. Our reference image is
looking pretty good. I'll go back to image
size now and size it up to 1200 by 1600 pixels, which will be our working size. Then export it as a quick PNG
and send it off to my iPad. Now we'll create a new file
in Procreate at 1200 by 1600 pixels and import
the reference image by pressing the spanner
icon and inserting a photo. If we swipe left on
this Procreate has a great option to import the
photo as a private layer. This just means that
if you're wanting to share a time-lapse of your art creation
process on social media, you can hide that
messy reference layer, which is a really cool feature. The first thing I'm
going to do is drag the reference layer to
the back and turn off. I'm going to take some
time to play with different brushes and see
which one I like the best. This time I'm
wanting something a bit more artistic looking. I'm choosing the syrup brush from the inking brush category. We want to set the opacity of the reference image to
around 40% and then lock the layer and just test out a few brush strokes to
make sure it looks okay. I'm making quite uniform
angled strokes here, starting with black again. This time I'm not using a grid, I'm just winging
it without one and hoping my strokes
go with them into. You can of course hit the
Undo arrow if you make a mistake or use the Eraser tool on the top
right beside the Layer button. I'm working in sections that are around a sixth of the image at a time and just filling in
all the black dots I can see. When you finish one color, lock the layer and
make a new one. I'm just pulling
the next color from the reference image by
holding my finger down on it. But if you're more
organized than I am, you can set up a
color palette with all of your colors in
it before starting. [MUSIC] Now once I've
finished dotting, I realized that my brush
size was a little small, so the image looked
a bit washed out. Mistakes like this
are going to happen. The way I fixed this
was to go and make two duplicates of each layer
and set the blending mode to multiply and then just hit
the arrow icon on the top left and slightly offset the layer to have three
overlapping layers, effectively making the dots look larger and the colors
look more vibrant.
7. Intermediate Desktop + Illustrator: [MUSIC] For the desktop
version of our project, I've got a photo of a cat. Once again with a
plain background that we'll ignore
and leave white. We're going to firstly crop
the image to a fixed ratio of three to four and then go
into image size and change the width to 120 pixels
and the height to 160 pixels and that's
pixelated our image nicely. Go into Image mode, index color, and this time I'm changing
the values that are already in custom
to full RGB color, which is two primary
colors and one secondary. I want to add yellow
as another primary and I'd also like the
other secondary colors. I'm just looking at the
hex codes for violet and orange and putting those in
at the bottom of the panel. Now, we have black and white primary and secondary
colors so we can more closely match
the colors used by early pointerism artists. We can say that the
cat is looking good. We'll resize the image
to 1,200 by 1,600 pixels and export it as a quick PNG
ready to use as a reference. Open up a new Illustrator
file at 1,200 by 1,600, and place the reference image. Lock the layer and
create a new one, and I'm just turning off
the reference for now so I can take a look at some
Illustrator brushes. Open up your brush panel and you should see a few options here. I'm not going to get crazy importing any brushes
for this project, so I'm just choosing the ink
brushes that are already there and having a play
around to see if I like any. A note of caution, Illustrator doesn't really
handle brushes too well. It has to render all of these complex shapes and this takes a heap of
processing power, especially if you
have a large image. I mostly never used
Illustrator brushes. I use the blob brush
because it's just a lot easier not having
things freeze up on you. A good thing with brushes
though is that you can change the brush after
creating the brushstrokes, which I'll show you once
everything is done. I've chosen a brush, and now let's go and
create a grid by going to preferences,
guides and grid. I'm setting one square
every 10 pixels with one subdivision per square. Next, let's grab the colors and put them in
our swatch panel. With the shape tool, create the square off to
the side of your app board, grab the eyedropper tool, and select color from
your reference image. Instead of using the drop-down
to add a selected color, you can just hit the plus icon to add the color to
the swatch panel. Once that's done,
use the drop down in the layers panel to set your reference layer
as a template, and this will automatically
lock it and dim the opacity. Now, we're ready to
start making some marks. Have a quick test
of your brush in size and adjust them
if you need to. If you double-click on
the paintbrush icon, some options come up and
I've just unchecked the fill new brush strokes and keep selected to make
the process easier. I wasn't happy with the
look of the ink brush, so I've grabbed the 60 art
paint brushes instead. I'm working from dark
to light colors, again in sections and keeping each color
on its own layer. [MUSIC] Here's our cat looking great and you
can see each layer here. Now, if you don't like
the look of the brush, here's where using brushes
can come in handy. I'm unlocking each layer and pressing "Command A"
to select everything. Then going out to the
brush panel where I can add another brush to
see how it looks. You can even change the size of the strokes for a
completely different look. This does take a fair
amount of processing power, so be prepared to wait a long time when you export
the finished artwork.
8. Advanced iPad + Procreate: [MUSIC] For this project, we'll be using even more dots on a larger art board
size to achieve a little more detail in
our pointillism art. We'll also try a more
freestyle drawing approach, rather than being constrained inside a grid of square pixels. I've chosen a wildlife photo of a turtle with some nice detail, and I'm going to crop it to a fixed ratio of three to four. This time in a
landscape orientation. I'm going to resize the
image and going in here, it's already at 1,600 by 1,200 so we'll just
go with that size. The next thing I want to is
limit the colors to CMYK. The approach is similar to what we've done in
the last projects. Going into index color and selecting black
and white first. Then we'll select
Custom and enter in 100% for each of the C, M, and Y inputs. That results in an image
that has the full range of colors implied from
just those five colors. If we zoom in, we can
see how each color is placed in pixels to make
up the whole image. Next, I want to separate
each of these colors. To do that, go up to color
mode and set it to CMYK. Then in the Select menu, click on the "Color Range" where you get these Color
Range options. We want sampled color, and the fuzziness doesn't matter too much in this case because we have colors that aren't very close in range to each other. I've just left it on 40. Now I'm going to zoom in and use the eyedropper to select
the black pixels. Hit Okay, and you can see that that selected all
the black pixels. Now I'm going to create a new
layer in the layers panel and press Command X to
cut out the black layer, making sure I'm on the
original layer first, and then paste them
onto the New Layer. Repeat this process for
the remaining colors, excluding white, which will
be our background color. When you're finished,
you should have each color on its own layer. If a layer doesn't paste
in the right spot, you can press Command
Z to undo and then paste by holding the
Shift key as you press Command V. Export each
layer by turning off the visibility of
the other layers and going to File Export, Quick Export as PNG. Now we have our
reference images. Let's create a new canvas in
Procreate of 1,600 by 1,200. If you want to export a
time-lapse of your app, you might want to insert
the reference image as a private layer by swiping left. I'm starting here with the
black reference image, and because it's the
same size as the canvas, it's nice and easy to place. Make a new layer to start
drawing on and press the N on the reference layer to bring up the layer options. We want to change the opacity to around 50% and then swipe
left and lock the layer. Next, I'm going to open up in another canvas and
test out some brushes. You can download and import
third party brushes, but to keep the project simple, I'll just use what's
already in Procreate. After messing around
I've decided to size up my canvas just so the brushstrokes look a
little less pixelated. I've created a new
canvas at 2,400 by 1,800 pixels and place the black reference image
as a private layer, resizing it up to
the canvas size. I've changed the opacity
of my reference layer, locked it, and created a
new working layer on top. I'm using the
technical pen brush from the inking brush group, doing a few test strokes
to check the size. We aren't going to make dots as small as the
reference image here, as that would be a
massive undertaking. What we're aiming for in this more freestyle
approach is to use the reference layer
as a guide and place dots closer together
where the color is more pronounced and further
apart as the tone lightens. I'm ignoring the background
here because it will just stay white in
the finished image. You can switch off
the visibility in the reference layer and zoom out to check
on your progress. All we adding a new layer for each color and at this size, each layer should
take around an hour. You can complete it over a
few days if you need to. [MUSIC] With my finished image, I know that the
dots on my layers are overlapping in places so I'm going to look at
the blending mode and see if I can enhance
the look a little. I've set the top three
layers to multiply and I'm just zooming out to
check the overall effect. I don't quite like
the intensity of the black so another thing you can do is to click on
the layer to bring up some options and
select Alpha Lock, which allows you to paint in a new color that replaces
the color in the dots. I've tried some other colors
and increased my brush size, but I wasn't happy with that
either so I ended up just lowering the opacity of the black layer to
make it less dominant.
9. Advanced Desktop + Illustrator: [MUSIC] The desktop
version of the project, I've got another wildlife
photo of this colorful bird. We're going to start
the same way by cropping the image
to a fixed ratio of 3:4 and I'm just leaving it at whatever size it
is after that crop. Now with this one, I wanted to try more of a screen printing
style color separation into some custom colors
and overlap the dots, but it didn't go so well, and often it's not until you've finished the
artwork that you realize you've made a mistake somewhere in the planning stage. If you're doing a similar
color separation, I'd recommend viewing the layers stacked once you've pulled
the colors out with blend mode set to Screen so that you can see that they
look like the reference. I didn't do that step for this and the result could
have been a lot better. I'm not going to
lead you astray with my flawed process
here and I'd suggest doing it the same way we did for the iPad version of the turtle. Once you have the
reference ready, open a new canvas
in Illustrator at 1800 by 2,400 pixels, go to File, Place to import each of the
reference layers. I'm starting with the
black layer first, so I'll lock the others
and set it as a template. Then I'll create a
new layer to work on. I'm just using the blob brush for this one because it uses a lot less processing power than the illustrator
art brushes. If you double-click on it,
you'll get some options. Make sure that Keep Selected is unchecked as we want the strokes to be
separate from each other. I'm adjusting the size here to five points with a pressure
variation of five. If I press a little harder, it will make a larger dot. Just test that out to
make sure it's right. I've lowered both
to three points and that's about the size
that I want now. Starting to dot,
just keep in mind that you're using the
reference as a guide to know where to
place dots closer together and where to add
some more space between them. I'm also following the shape
of the area in a line, and this gives a bit more of a dynamic quality to the work. I'll be keeping each
color on its own layer, and a layer should
take around an hour, so feel free to
complete this over a few days if you don't
have four hours to spare. [MUSIC] When your dots are all done, your layers should
look a bit like this. I realized with mine
that the colors weren't exactly how
I'd planned out. You can play with
the blending modes to change the look
of the colors. I usually like to set mine to Multiply so it
intensifies the color. But I've set these
to Overlay and tuned off the black
and I've also gone up and set the stroke size to one and then two to try and
make it look better. I think this one is a bit of a failure for whatever reason, but it was a good exercise anyway and a great
way to zone out.
10. Conclusion: [MUSIC] This is the last video. Well done on making it this far. If you're yet to
complete your project, I expect to see it really
soon up in the project area. If you finished your project early, a big congratulations. It can be really tough to keep dotting for long
periods of time, but I hope that you
gained something from the process and that you're
really happy with the result. Over the course of this class, you've learnt how
to plan out and complete a pointillism
art piece. You've learnt some tips about
color and blending mode and how to separate RGB and CMYK
colors into their channels. You've also learnt a little bit about the brain
and how it works, and how this process can
help you reconnect with your creative side when you're feeling a
little bit stuck. There are endless possibilities
with pointillism, with the shape of the dots, the size of the dots
and the arrangement, so I really encourage
you to experiment and explore this technique and
see where it leads you. Don't forget to upload and share your project in
the projects area. I really do get a
kick out of seeing student work and I always make sure to respond some feedback. It really helps other learners
when they see your work, get a little bit more inspired and encouraged to
put up their own. If this class hasn't been too
excruciating or terrible, please do consider
leaving me a review. It really helps my growth
as a teacher and it also ensures that my classes stay up on Skillshare for the long term. If you'd like to see
more classes like this, you can give me a follow on my teacher profile
here on Skillshare, and you can also follow
me on social media, on my Facebook and
Instagram pages. That's all for now. Thank you so much for taking this class. I really hope you got
something out of it and that pointillism is now
a tool that you can use whenever you feel stuck. I hope to see you
in the next class. Until then, keep
creating. [MUSIC]
Keren Elizabeth, Illustrator + Designer
