Master your iPhone cameras

1. Skillshare Course Intro: Hi, my name is Bill Buckley and I've been working with training and video for over 30 years. Everything back from the old days of use in a big VHS tape that you have to put up on your shoulder, this big camera rig to the day's iPhones. This course is all about understanding the phone and your cameras on your phone, and how to use them, what each one is for, and how to get the best study of photography or videos. This class is for anyone that has an iPhone and wants to know more about understanding the cameras on the phone and Haring. He used them to get the best results. For each lesson in the course or take you from the very beginning of waking up your phone to all the way through it. A time-lapse slow motion. And the new cinematic mode that Apple just introduced on their iPhone 13. What would also be great is the senior examples in the project area. We have a project in this course, which is all about during a live photograph. And you can follow along with the course on how to do that. And also night mode, if your iPhone can do that, leave them down in the project area so that we can all take a look at them, not to be just great. So without wasting any more time, Let's get started. And I'll see you in the first lesson. 2. Focus lock: In this course, we're going to be looking at every setting in your iPhone, whether it's for photography or videography, we've got you covered. So let's jump into it. Okay. So let's wake up my phone just by tapping on it. Now there's two ways to bring up the camera up really quickly. The first way is press and hold down on the bottom right on the camera icon. And that'll bring up a camera app, or the other way as you just drag to the right from right to left. And that will bring up the camera app if you're in something else like photo or video or cinematic, just drag left to right. And you're gonna go, and we're going to start off with photo. So the first thing we're gonna do is we're going to just tap on whatever we want to focus on. So in this case the front peg. But if we want to focus on the characters at the back, we can focus on that, on one of the other pegs in the middle or just anywhere in the same. And this will set focus and exposure. You'll notice when I click anywhere on here, there's a little yellow box that comes up and on the side of it as a son. And this will actually adjust the exposure. So you can drag it down to make it darker, or you can drag it up to make it brighter. If you want to set it back to normal, just press anywhere on the screen and it will reset it back for you. Now when you're doing video or even photographs, what you can do is press and hold on the screen. As I want to focus on this pig. And you have the same thing. But now at the top, it comes up in yellow and says AE AF lie. And that's auto exposure and autofocus lock. So what this means is especially if you're doing video, not so much for photographs. But if you do a video, if you're going from something light, dark, really bright sky to a shadow under a tree. The phone itself will change the white balance and the exposure. So what this does is lock it. So as you move from a bright area to a dark area, then it won't just keep changing the sky or inside of a room. And it looks pretty bad. So this stops that from happening. And we'll just locked to whatever you wanted to lock onto, such as the sky, for example. So this is always a good habit to get into whether you're taking photographs or whether you're taking video. 3. Using Camera Flash: As always, if you want to go back, you just press anywhere on the screen. And that removes that for you. Now at the top of the screen you see it's called a carrot, but it looks like a little, little mark here. And if you just click on that, it's an arrow. These other options come up down the bottom and this is what we're going to use in the photo menu. So our first one is well-known. To click on the first one it see flash. So you can set this to auto. So this means that the phone itself will decide when the flashes needed. If the sensor deems it to be too dark, it will use the flash. And then you also have on top I set it to on, it goes yellow up the top. And you can turn that off again just up here. And you see that the yellow goes away and the line goes through it. So let's say we want to, we're going to change it down here as well. We're going to go on and then we're going to click on that and it will flash because we told it to stay on. Normally. I always turn this off. And if I want it on, I'll turn it on. 4. Live photos : Our next menu we have is this yellow circle. We try calmness or at the top up here. And they're live photos. So if it's off, you can see there's a line through it and both areas. And again, we can turn it on by touching down here for touching up the top up here. So we go here, begin to auto. And we can turn it on all the time as a default, there live photos are basically little mini video is as soon as you go into a little bit the light photo on, you go into the phone app. It'll take a piece of video before you press the button, 1 second before and 1 second afterwards. So for example, if I move this little peg in the way and I move it around like this. And I take a picture. If I click on this now, and I just click and hold, you can see it makes it a little video. Now, the reason for this is that you can edit the video. And let's say you were standing with a bunch of people and someone's Lincoln, for example, there is a close at a certain point because you've done a little video, it's two seconds. You can click on the Live photo down here. And then you can drag this along. Just like so. And you can get in the May be where they weren't blinking. And then that will be marked as a keyframe. And you can say that frame out as the picture that you want to send. So it actually will save you have some mistake. Somebody's not smiling or somebody's blinking. But we just like the effect. That's fine too. I'm going to cancel. Some people like this. It might be a kids or something and you know, in the moment you can click on it and you get a little 2 second clip of what was happening. The dam side of life photos is that it's a 2 second video. So instead of just taken a photograph, it actually takes a video and this takes up a lot of storage on your phone. So if you don't have much memory, it's actually going to fill that up fairly correctly if every photograph, He's a live photo. So what I end up doing is just sending it off. And if I want to take a live photo, then that's what I'll end up doing. I'll just turn it on and it's as simple as touching the top of the screen. And then live photo is on or it's an autumn. Again, as we said before, you can move anything moving in the picture. The software will recognize that. I normally just keep this off and I'll use it when I want to use it. So I'm here. It's on a busy road, so the same line not be triggered. But I'm going to do a live photo, which is a 3 second video on this Farrington behind me. And I can do this handheld. Go into photos. I'm going to make sure that live photos is on, making sure that yellow. And then I may use my rule of thirds here, line up the edge of this column. And I'm going to take a photo. And then in live photos, I'm going to be able to hit this guy. A long exposure. And that's going to be my picture. 5. Camera pre filters ( Photography styles): The next item that we have, these little squares here, they look like a stack of paper to click on the ECS or filters. And you can just drag, you can see this one says standard. You can drag them across. And this one is rich, contrast, vibrant, cool, and then cool again. But you have different values for mom and tone. And these are filters that are going to be taken as you take the picture. So when a Sherpa one that you choose, you can click on tone for example. And then you can drag the tone and play around with these to get a different effect that you'd like to not show which one to do. You can go to the camera setting and, and photographic styles and the camera. It shows you using a picture and said of what you're looking at and just shows you the different effects here. You can get with this type of picture, for example, and what they've sort of main and explains a little bit about each one. So I'm going to drag that up, come back to my camera. Again, swipe down. And this is where you can use them. And this is before you take a picture. Obviously a lot of people use filters like Instagram and what have you. So this is just another thing where you can play around and it's before you take the picture, not imposed editing. 6. Quick Shots : The next thing we have is if you press and hold the photo button, it will actually take video and tell me Let It Go to take burst pictures. So let's say someone's jumping up in the air and you want to take those pictures, you press and you drag it over to drag it over to the left. And it's taken 38 pictures there. And then you can choose a picture that you want and just delete the others. 7. Aspect Ratio: Tanja, go back or we got to do is click on here again. The next thing we have is your ratios 4 to 3. Square is social media like Instagram. And even though Instagram allows you to take different size pictures, the thumbnails that you see when you're scrolling through the pages are always square. So this is one-to-one. And we have four to three, so it's a little bit wider. And then we'll have 16 to nine, which is much taller. And also a 16 to nine is what would be used for video if you're doing video, 16 to nine is the preferred format. 8. Exposure: So moving along, I'm going to put this back to four by three. And then we have exposure there. Exposure will bring up a little scale. It's on 0. This is what the camera thinks is the best exposure from the light that sin is also a little exposure meter at the top here. And you can just use your finger and drag to make it brighter and then make it darker. And if you sell it however you want most of the time, it then I leave it in the center where the camera thinks it is and allows you to change the brightness of the image. 9. Timer settings: So again, to close it, just click on the plus minus button. Next we have the timer. The time is good for if you are, let's say there's a group photo you want to do and you have your phone on a tripod and you want to jump in the photograph yourself. You can set it for three seconds or 10 seconds before it takes the picture. So if we go over here and set this to three seconds, we locked focus and then press this, it'll count down. And then they'll take the picture after three seconds or 10, whatever you have decided. Again, I'm going to go in here and turn that off, only going to use that one I want to. But it's a great thing if you're trying to get in the photograph as one. 10. Night mode: So the next thing I want to talk about is night mode. To night mode doesn't normally come up. But if the picture gets dark, so I'll put this black camera lens in front of the cameras here. You'll see that they settle. Moon shaped thing comes up here or take it away. Put it in place where it's dark, like so. And then you'll see a turn yellow. And it tells you that would be five seconds. Click on that. More that Salami is I want to turn the night mode off. It would be like bad. If I go back to auto. It's telling me five seconds in this particular case. And I'll show you an example, but you can drag it to auto or up to the recommended amount of time. What this isn't a deal with a long exposure. So it's going to do a long exposure. And in this case, let's say it's, I guess we're going to count down. It's going to actually came down and then take the picture. It's taken the picture all the time for those five seconds. And it's obviously not going to work in this case. Um, I'll show you an example of bringing up on the screen now. So next we have night veal. You look at the top of this little moon shape. To click on that. It'll bring up the night view. And then you can just drag if you want it off. Or whether you want it to auto or if you want it to be 1 second. And then you can just click on 1 second for example. And then it will adjust the exposure to help with night shots. Luck in better. If you don't want it on. You can just take this to off on even auto. And the software itself will decide whether to use it. So we click on it here. We could turn it off like this. And this only comes up when the camera thinks that it needs it. So I click, it's off. This is what we get. I'm going to go back and turn, turn it on auto, auto color again. And then this is the image or gap. So what this does is it opens the shutter for a long time, the electronic shutter, and try to, try to get more lighting onto the sensor. It has a long exposure. Now if you are doing that free hand, you have to be really, really still. Or it's better to prop your phone up or put it on a tripod. Because every little thing you move with with your hand, the micro Jeter's, it's going to come out blurry. It especially at night. So you can get away with it if you hold the camera really still and it's not a really, really long exposure. Maybe it's 1 second, 2 seconds, but you're better off if you're going to do night photography to put it on a tripod. So here we can see that because I have an overhead light, light in this scene up. If I turn the light off, the image gets darker. And two things happen. One, you see the night mode come up when it's on the bottom of the screen now, I can adjust that. And the other thing happens is the focus is hunting. So I'll just tap on the screen and I will stop that happening. But if I turn my overhead light on, the night mode goes away because the camera sensors, it has enough light. So that's why it doesn't come up on the screen. So if you're in darker situations, right here, for example, we can press and hold. And then I can actually click on this, leave it on auto, and then take the picture. And then that thing is, that's what it did to adjust the shutter or exposure to take our picture. Again with the overhead light off, it needs it so it comes up as an option on the bottom. And if I have a brighter light or have enough light in my scene, then it goes away. So it's not, doesn't need to be available. And you can see here that the knight viewers come on. And it's actually saying seconds at the top and the psych laboratory in 1 second, 3 seconds. But let the scene, so we click on it in auto which chromatin 1 second, 3 seconds. If we drag it to off, our images are going to look very dark, or let's turn it off and take a picture. And that will look like this. Okay. And there were free filled back and we hit the night mode on to auto. You can see it's going between 1 second here. And three seconds. Go all the way up to max. It's going to be on three seconds. So that's go to Auto. And then we just click on, let's take the picture. And you can see it's cycles then from three seconds to one. And then that is night mode image versus the original one. 11. Video mode: And so on. Hi, class. The next menu we want to look at is video. So in the video, this is what a normal video menu looks like. Again, I would recommend you click and hold so that you focus on what you're trying to keep in focus. In this case, the front peg would be in focus and the back little guys wouldn't be or I can click on them and just leave it there or I can I would suggest you press and hold. She'll get the AEF block. And then that would keep The focus where you want it as you move around and video. It's a good habit to get into. Now. In focus, you have three lenses on your phone. The point phi, the ultra-wide. And you can say if we change focus, every change lenses I should say, you have to focus again, just click on it once or hold it. And you got a one. By the way, 1 times lens is the best quality lens. And then you have a zoom lens which is three times zoom. So if I bring another little peg into here maybe. And then we click on him. This is where we're going to try to get them into focus. Like so. Okay, so the difference between optical and digital zoom. So optical is your three cameras, 0.5 ultra-wide. One which is wide, and your tally, which is a zoom lens. Okay? So if you just even one times lens here, if you just click and hold on that, you get this little rocker to let you go up to nine times. As Zoom. The problem with this is if you go beyond the three, tingle right up til like nine, and then effect on here and what have you. It gets actually digital zoom, it's fake zone. So it's just a camera trying to reproduce this, right? So if you just want to do this or this, it's better to actually go and you wanna get nearer. Try to move 0 near at or something. It's fine when you're looking at it on your phone, you won't see it. But if you see it on a bigger screen like a TV or a computer monitor or an iPad. You'll see a lot of grain and noise because it's artificial, it's not real. We all Zoom. So these are the real optical zooms. These 1.513, in this case, your phone may have more or less. And then if you go beyond there, you start doing all this digital stuff up here, pass three, then your pictures won't be as in-focus. So just be aware that when you're doing, especially in video, and you don't want to be changing back and forth between these different things here anyway, you want to sort of stick to one and shoot that as a video. And then change to a wide angle view and shoot that as a video. And if you want to go into zoom in because your across a lake or something, then use that and shoot another clip of video and then put them all together in an app or some editing software later. 12. Frame rates : So again, in video for selling video, we can see at the top of the screen that we're in for K and 60 frames per second. And if I click on that, we can be in HD. And if I click on this 60 packing, go to 30 or 64 K 30, 60 or 24. 24 frames per second is cinematic video. And this is what Hollywood films are made of. And that's what they shoot at 24 frames per second. And a lot people like to mimic this and it gives it that that movie look. Versus if you do 30, for example, this is more of a TV or a talking head low-fee you see on YouTube, which means someone's talk into the camera and showing you things. Before Kayz 60 is what I like to keep things on. Because what I can do, because it's been 60 frames per second. I can use that to do a little bit of slow motion and post editing. So where do we set these settings? So let's come back to the camera settings and let's look at where you set them in settings. Now we're going to go into camera and then we can see where the settings are for ESOL is formats. We have high efficiency, are most compatible. So you can set it to high efficiency. Apple Pro R4 is here. And this means that if you are shooting photographs, have any of you guys shoot with digital cameras, mirrorless and things like that. There's a JPEG format which is your colors and your images are baked into what you see. So are issued is what you get. A lot of people will shoot RAW photos. So ra means it takes a bunch of extra information. The files are a lot larger, but it allows you to do post editing. So that would be for photographs. And then Apple progress is for video, and it's the same thing as R4 for photographs. Now, progress means it's an apple Kodak. And Kodak is nothing more than somebody that compresses and decompresses video so that you can load it to YouTube, load into social media and move it to a computer. And it gets a lot of information and it doesn't compress it too much so you lose quality. The trade-off, however, is a files are huge. One, I think one minute is six gigs of video. So you can imagine that's going to totally fill up your phone memory. And not for 95% of people, you're not going to use this unless you're a professional video editor. Well, photographer, videographer. So you can play with these later, but that's what they are, right? Turn them off. So high-efficiency also needs to be on if you want to change some of these video settings, the higher frame rates, and you can read this. So if we go back the camera, my video recording, you can see here we have 720 at 30 frames per second, 10 ADP. And I am going to choose if I'm shooting cinematic video, I'm going to choose for k at 24 frames per second. But I want my default to always be for k at 60 frames per second. And that just means that when I actually go to the camera and set it, it's an, uh, come up with that and I can change it on the camera settings before I shoot if I need to. For slow motion, when we get to slow motion, we have two options here. 1080 at 240 frames per second, that's super slow motion. And 10 ADP at a 120 frames per second. So is taken a 120 pictures in a second. So it means you can manipulate it later on for a slow motion. So my settings are going to be four cared 60 and 10 ADP at 120. I also turn the grid on because I like to set up my composition, my shots, and just to make sure everything is looking okay. And obviously that doesn't come out in the photograph or the video. It's just a visual grid on your screen. You can trim it off there. So we can close this up, go back to our camera. Here's the grid. By the way, you can see these are all nine boxes. And they're looking at the top. I'm in video. And you can see a mean for k 60. Let's say we're shooting something that was cinematic. I can change this dam to 24 by tapping it. And I'm shooting for k at 24 frames per second. By the way, if I was going to shoot cinematic, you don't normally shoot cinematic video vertically. I mean, this is fine for TikTok and YouTube Stories, shorts, and Instagram stories. But if he shouldn't cinematic video, this should be horizontal. You would literally turn the camera like this and you would shoot horizontally. For video. There'll be the gnome. So again, if I want to shoot 10 ADP, for example, I can shoot HD at 30 frames or 60 up here just by choose a noun. For K is much better quality. But it is a larger file size. 13. Cinematic mode: So next is something new that came out on the iPhone 13 and its cinematic mode. And this is known in videography is focus racking. So what this does, and it'll do it automatically if it's real faces. So if you click on this here, you'll notice that the pig in the front is in focus and the objects in the back of the people in the back and not in focus. But let's say I was running this video and I wanted to switch to the back. I will click on these two characters at the back and you can see that they go into focus and the other ones at the front don't. And if I want to switch back, I can switch. It also has an automatic function. If it's a real person, the software will lock on their face and if they turn away from the camera, it would switch to the people at the back or the object at the back, for example. And it's cinematic effect called racking focus. And is a really nice touch actually. And it's a great feature. For those of you that know what portrait photographs. This is the same thing, It's whatever is in the front. But for video, wherever is in the front is in focus and everything behind there is blurry. And then you can see here that it has an F for the top. So if we click on this, this gives you a slider and we can see that the f-stop, well that is a 2.8 and this case now I can drag this all the way to f 16 and the background will get less blurry. And then if I drag it all the way to two, for example, the brac, the background gets more blurry. So isn't that Boker effect they hear everybody talking about. So a to the characters are much more blurry and 16 less blurry. So stellar, but a blurry because it's quite far away. So the depth of focus here keeps it on this, keeps it on this peg or the front. So it's just a way that you can manipulate it. So that's another feature of cinematic is portrait, portrait. Picture for video. So here we are again. We go to cinematic mode. And when the onetime lens here, I can click on the f at the top. And then a, Here's my scale. I'm at 2.8 now. I don't want it is blurring and I can take it up to f 16. And that really shows a background in focus as well as the tree in front of us. So if I drop that back down, you can see here that we get the tree and focus, especially if I lock focus on edX right now, I hold their impressing and I can record some video to get a nice blurry background with the tree in front of us in sharp focus. So like we said, I can hit the bush now going to focus, for example, I can go back on him, lambda, so I click on him or facial recognition. Okay, so now I can start recording. And then what I can do is I'll just stand here. And then I shall be blurry right now. But then if you turn around and look away from the camera, it should lock onto my face and I shall be in focus. 14. Portrait mode: So while we're talking about portrait pictures, Let's leave cinematic and go back to portrait. The portrait is the same thing. It's going to take someone they love really good if you're taking a picture of somebody, and then basically they're in focus and what else is behind them is an in-focus there to get a portrait picture, you normally got a backup a little bit. And this is what it's saying here. The sand move farther away. And if I say in this pig is too Nia. So if I move that further back, it'll go off and that's where it will take the picture. If I move a Tunisia is telling me the move further back. So in real terms, I would have to move the camera further back. But for our case, we're just gonna do this. So if I click on the pig here, you can see at the back that the objects at the back, the pigs and then a little characters. And not in focus. Again, we focus on the front one. We have the same thing. It's where a photograph we have the F or the top. So if I go here and click the F, it's set at 2.8. But I can change it to make the background much more blurry like so. Or I can make it less blurry like so. With F 16. So this is recommending to 0.8. And it's up to you. If you go swipe it to the right, the background gets really blurry. Sometimes that people say That's too fake. And they like it around five. So this is in focus, but this is slightly out of focus. Or if you want everything in focus, then you choose it, swipe it to the left and then just focus somewhere in the center. But that's not the point of a portrait picture. The picture for portraits should be have some type of blur to it at the background. That's the point of it. Otherwise you're just take in a normal photograph. So that's somewhere you would do that. The other thing you have in portrait and you can do this in post or edited later on. So if we close that guy up and we go to natural light, you just stab wound, these are your finger and I'll change the lighting effect for whatever you want. And again, these can be changed in the FU edited even after you do the picture trolley where natural light. I'll leave it here. It's set at 2.8 for me, it's, it's blurry in the background and I'll take my picture. So as I said, you can edit it later on for example. So here's the picture that we took him portrait. And if I do edit, I can use the, the, these effects for lighting. And you can see the effect we can get, for example, from Matt. And the other thing we can do is we can change the background again from 2.8 to less blurry or tomorrow blurry. And it's done in post. I'm going to cancel and go back to our camera. 15. Panoramic mode: Okay, next we're going to move over to panel. And this allows you to move the camera, you follow the arrow to get a panoramic picture. So let's take a quick look at that. This is how we're going to do this panel mode. So we're going to do is create a panel. And then we're going to start right here. And then we're gonna follow the arrow all the way along. Nice and slow. Keep it nice and steady. Right? So we can actually see. 16. Slow Motion: Okay, let's move on. Let's swipe over. And so we get to slow motion. Slow motion is really good for moving water, something moving fast, which you want to slow it down like traffic. Or people walk in on a railway station or someone on a bicycle going past to cause things like that. So just to demonstrate that here, Let's press record. And then I'm just going to throw this guy in the way there, press stop, play it back. And then it's an, a slow it down. We said that a 120 frames per second that we said in the, in the settings, in the camera settings. And we can see that here when we're in slow-mo camera settings, we said that a 120 frames per second. If I click on that, it's 240, which will have a lot more information to slower stuff down. But we set it for a 120 and that's plenty. As I said, I'll give you some examples are shown on the screen of other, some motion effects. In this case. 17. Timelapse: So finally, bring timelapse. Time-lapse has really good for, as it says, I'm moving clouds are going from a sunset or sunrise. And basically it takes a picture every so many frames I go, I once a second or once every two or three seconds. And then it puts it together as a little mini movie. So just to give you an example, in this case, I'm going to do this. It's going to start counting Danny and taking pictures. But I'm going to move this around and real time, just like this. And then I'm going to stop in. And when I play it back, we have then I'll time-lapse. Now obviously, that's really sure because we just did a short couple of seconds there. But it's also really good for what they call a hyperlink. So hyper lapses if you're walking with your phone, preferably on a gimbal, like a phone gimbal, it's stable or basically a gimbal is a stabilizer. And you can walk towards a building or around the building, or walking down a street. And you'll get that same effect. But as you're moving. And it's known as a hyper lapse is a time-lapse that's moving. 18. Apple ProRes Native iPhone App: If you have iPhone 13 Pro or 13 Pro Max, filming version 6.17 and above now supports progress video capture. But what's all this? Who pleura surrounding apple progress about? Apple ProRes video is a Kodak that's been around for a while. On high-end professional cameras. It's format is used for commercial projects and feature films. And now Apple has introduced it on the iPhone 13 Pro and 13 Pro Max with their release of iOS 15, 0.1, and they upgrade to the microprocessor chip. Note, it's not available on the normal iPhone 13 or 13 many also, it's not available on any previous iPhone models before the 13 Pro and Pro Max, normal codecs like H.264, ABC and H.265 HEVC heavily compressed the video so that it's a smallest size and can easily be uploaded to the web. It's small file size means heavy compression, and that means a loss in some quality. But this is what the vast majority of people use for normal video projects and upload into the web in places like YouTube and social media sites. Apple progresses advantage is that it compresses the video less so that professional filmmakers can have more information to work with in the video post-production, like color correction and special effects. But also able to slip in phone footage into their higher end for edge if needed. It's also supposed to be easier on demanding editing software like Final Cut and Adobe Premier to handle What's its stem side? That should be a no brainer, right? Just use progress all the time. Well, the downside is the file size. One minute of four K ProRes video is about six gigabytes compared to one minute of normal for K, which is about 388 megabytes. So that means if you shoot for K video using ProRes 422 HQ, which is high-quality, and that format on your iPhone 13 Pro, that has 256 gigabytes of storage. Your phone or fill up within 45 minutes. So using programs will fill up your phone very quickly. Also, getting it off your phone is extremely tedious and slow. You have to use the lightning cable because iPhones don't have a USB-C port, for example. And that's USB 2. Or you can try AirDrop. But because the files are so big, they take a really long time to transfer price from 13 from models with a 128 gigabytes of storage. Progress is only available in 1080 P resolution up to 30 frames per second. To shoot ProRes video in 10 ADP and up to 60 frames per second. For, for k up to 30 frames per second, you're going to need 256 gigabyte storage. For the majority of you are there, at least for now, I believe that you'll probably be sticking around with the normal MP4 format, which is AVC or HEVC. But let's take a look at how to use progresses features on the native app, as well as the filmic pro app. So using your native app on your iPhone, it has to be an iPhone 13 Pro and Pro Max current settings camera. And you can go to formats. And then the bottom here, you can see Apple ProRes. We can also see that progress only supports up to 30 frames per second, that for k and up to 60 frames per second at 10 ADP. The other thing that we can turn on here is make sure that h t video is on. So it's high dynamic range. And that is basically go into make sure that your highlights and your shadows is captured with more information. And then once you're here, returned, progress on. We go to camera. You can go to video. And progress is on the top. And what you'll see here is if I try to enable progress, it says progress is not supported. And it's because. We're at four K, that's 60, 50 to 40 K 24. It tells me now that progress is enabled and I have a max time of a 155 minutes. But at four K 24 frames per second, I can go to for k 33 if I want to go to HD 30, for example, I 498 minutes left in storage on my phone. So that's tried to grind side now and take a look at doing some programs video with the native app. So one thing to notice here is that progress. You can see it up the top of the screen on the bottom left here. It doesn't work in cinematic mode. It's not available in cinematics, so it's only available in video. So if I try to turn that on, you can see it gives me a warning because I mean, for k at 60 frames per second. So I say, okay, and now I need to change this, maybe the Paul K to fall. Just like cell. Setup him my video. I contend progress on now. I'm just in a lock, so my focus. And then we can shoot some video here. Once you're done. You can see that you have a max time, a 155 minutes, uh, my particular phone, it's a one terabyte version. And then if we go to photos, you can see it actually says that it's progress in the top-left corner, recognizes that and puts it in our photo album. And this is the video that we just captured. And we can see here that if we hit the Information button, we can see the information about the video that we just took. And you can say that it says it's in progress. And it lasted for 16 seconds. And it was 1.37 gigabytes HDR video. Okay, one other thing you could do here too, is you can turn on and off crores here and video. Bye on the little progress label. Well, if you click on this little marker here, you'll get your usual extra commands here. And if you look at the top, you can click on Pro. And then you can turn progress on a Progress off. Also here. As well as you can adjust your exposure if you need to. And if you want to just close that icon, that little mark again and we're back here. 19. IPhone Macro: Hey everyone. In this lesson we're going to take a look at the world of macro photography. We've got an iPhone 13 Pro Max. And we're going to jump in and take a look at what images and what video we can get using the macro mode, which it uses the ultra-wide camera on this phone. Let's jump into it and take a look what we can do. If any of you have got the iPhone 13 Pro and Pro Max. It's the only two that do the macro mode. You might have noticed when you're doing video or photography. As you get nearer to something, it actually makes a jump. The image is switching from whatever camera you are in to the ultra-wide camera. So let's take a look at how that comes on and the effect that it causes. Our first tip is knowing when your camera goes into macro mode. So currently I'm on one times camera, I'm in the photo. And then basically as I move down towards these screws here, you can see a jump that just happened there. And also, if you notice in the bottom right, there is a small circle that comes up with a flower on it. So the macro mode that we can actually keep going, This means that we switched over, even though we were in the onetime his camera, it's switched over to the macro mode, which uses the ultra-wide camera. We can just keep going right up as close as we can, right up to the screws here. I can press and hold to lock focus and exposure. Then I can take my picture. If you don't like the little yellow macroeconomy turns on. It's the yellow circle with a flower in it. As it jumps into macro that comes on. If you don't like that, that can be turned off by simply go into Settings on your phone, and then camera. And then then at the bottom it's macro control. Now this won't turn off the macro control, but it will, what it will do is it will stop that yellow icon from coming up. If it just gets annoying for you. If you've taken a photograph, the jump in the macro won't make much difference because you just didn't get to where you want to be. And we just saw the jump then once I'm actually close enough, that could even go to a different lens, for example. Get the shot as best I can. Then take your photograph. Now in video mode, you don't have this option. For example, if I'm trying to zoom in to something, first tip is it's actually better to be in close. Then zoom out. And that makes it easier. You can go in the 0.5 ultra-wide camera. And if you do that, and then you move into something, it won't jump because it's already in the ultra-wide camera. The other option you have is once you press record on the video. So if i mean one time, a camera mode for example, if you press record and then you start moving in, it won't jump either if the record button is already recording or wherever you got to be careful of this. Because once it's recording, you got to be careful of your focal distance. You might try to go too close if you're trying to do macro. And in that case it might be a little bit blurry. If that's the case, you're better off starting off with the 0.5 camera that is close as you need to. Then then record and pull out away from the subject. The other thing that happens is trying to zoom in and out. It's really difficult in macro mode. Your hand shake is there, so you can use a gimbal or a slider, or a tripod, and a little mini tripod like a gorilla pod is good and get as close as you can to the subject. And instead of going in and zooming in, if you're doing video, start off at the closest mode and then pull back, That's much better and then post you can reverse it. And it looks like you're zooming in. But it makes it much more stable looking. Instead of moving in where you see the jump, go to where it jumps in. Actually changed to ultra-wide camera. From there. Move. By doing that, the camera won't switch again. If you have somewhere that you have a smooth surface, you can use an old t-shirt. And then basically, when you are trying to zoom out, getaway, you want it to be, you'd be right on the edge of the t-shirt. And then as you move out, making it much more smoother. Here, if you don't have enough height to use the t-shirt and just choose any boxes or Liza, some old Tupperware containers that are from the dollar store. Get your camera, your phone, as near as you want to. Then still in the macro mode, you can just drag the t-shirt back. Get a smooth transition at the how you want that smooth, you can even use this to zoom in. The next thing we need to talk about is light. The more light that you have, the better if you have filming indoors. Try to get near a big open window, fulfillment outside and a lot of bright daylight. That's also good. But what you'll find is, as you're trying to film, we move this nearer to the subject. If it's too dark, you won't get as much detail. And also the video will be grainy as well. What you can do is have something like this or a little cheap LED light, which you can just turn on and get more light on the subject indoors. Then this definitely helps. When you're actually doing the video. That'll help with lightening up the subject. Okay, here we've got a little bit creative. These a couple of cheap LED lights, ones like an orange color. One is a blue. We've got our same setup that we've been using now. And I've actually pulled the Puritans back so you get more of the blue, like orange and teal look. Then using our same setup here. I'm on, go into macro mode, as near as I can. Press record. Then pull it back. Try not to get the LED lights in the frame. Can zoom in. Next, what we're going to do is try to take a picture. I've got some light coming in from this area here and try to take a picture of the rope or the string around the candle. Listen, I'm gonna go into just a photo app. Then. I'm in macro mode, no matter which one I choose, it'll jump into macro mode anyway. I'm going to get as close as I can. Not going to even Press and hold on it just to see if I can focus in on that string. Then take a picture. This might be a little bit difficult to hear me because they're right next to a school where there's a bush here with a bunch of B's going between the flowers. We've set this up on a tripod. This is actually an electrical tripod called a Moses slide party. And we're just gonna record on here. Because see what we get. Might just have to be a little bit patient. One of the b's comes into one of these flowers here. You're going to use some type of electric slider. If you're going to do a lot of macro shots, it might be worth getting one because it keeps everything is steady and you're not gonna be able to hand moving in and out like this. So what we're able to do is use Bluetooth to connect to this. And then I can start my video like so. Wait for the shape to stop. Then I can drag this back. This is really loud. You won't be able to do. I could talk and head over this chalk over the top of it. Same thing. We have this tripod hooked up to this bushier, the flower. Let's stop the recording. Now after you press the recording, take a second or two for it. The hard part, the stable out. And that's what can happen. 20. Selfie Camera: So the last thing we have here then a bottom right, is the front-facing camera or cell phones as known. And you can see that you have all the same options. Some night mode, live mode, the filters, you're aspect ratios, the timer, and your exposure. So exactly as it was for the rear-facing cameras.