Transcripts
1. Introduction: I've been making my Marinin for about five years, but I've been living in a world full of puppets and fairy tales since my childhood because my mom has a puppet theater. She's a merriment maker and a professional puppeteer, and I've learned a lot from her. So now it's a kind of our small family business. But I have chosen a slightly different path and decided to make public portraits that are basically personalized. Mirian it's and I make them from photos that people send me. But sometimes, I said, only decide to create a marinade of famous actor or a musician or any inspiring person. Over the past few years, Fred, a lot of different materials and I have finally found those that were best for me, and I'm here to share my knowledge, to ensure you my process of mirin and making. I said just we'll start with something easier in kind of beginner friendly. So in this class I'll demonstrate each one step off making this small marina. It's a fictional character with very simple wooden buddy, simple facial features, and I think this is a good place to start. This class covers the entire process from start to finish, I'll teach you how to make the wooden body with basic movements how to build a marinade controller. I'll show you how I make a head sculpt the face painted make hair and I also teach you how to make hands and shoes. How does so a simple outfit and how to attach all these parts together? Of course, this is not a one day project, but I wanted this class to cover each one step so that you can find all the information needed at one place in Create your own Marina. I think this class is not only for those who are interested in making Marinus, but also for anyone who's into doll or toy making sculpting painting. I think it confined this class useful and apply these skills to similar project as well. You don't need to have any previous experience in making marionettes, but you should have some basic knowledge of how to use a drill handsaw in a sewing machine . However, I'm sure you can do it if you have these basic D i Y tools. And if you have some patients I've been learning just by doing it, and I'm sure you can do it, too. I love the feeling when it stops being a bunch of things and materials on the table when it stops looking like something, and it starts to look like someone when America gets its own personality. That's what I love most about marrying at making. My name is better. But I mean, look over, I'm a puppet maker, and I'm here to teach you how to create your own marionette, and I hope you enjoy it.
2. Sketch: what I make a puppet portrait. I need photographs of the person taken from different angles. But in this class, I'm gonna be creating a fictional character. So I'm gonna make a sketch. It doesn't have to be perfect. I just want to have an approximate idea off. What? I want my Marinette to look like. You don't have to make us catch if you don't want to. You can just find a picture off your favorite cartoon character from a book or a tale. Or if you want something more difficult and challenging, you can use photos off a really person and make a public portrait. But if this is your first marina, I recommend that you started with a face which is easier to sculpt. Okay, now I think I'm gonna spit it up a little bit. I decided to create a boy with very simple facial features, big eyes to make him look cute. I'm gonna dress him in simple outfit, a sweatshirt and pans. It's all gonna be long sleeved in order to cover the joints, elbows and niece. Okay, so now that we have our Marinette designed on paper, let's take a look at materials and tools that will need. And then we can start making the head by forming a base
3. Materials and Tools: to make ahead, we're going to need an old wooden spoon, some shredded paper. Or, if you don't have any, you can use paper towels or a toilet paper and all save. It's very handy when we need to drain with paper. We'll also need a water based dispersion, glue, starch powder and some water. That's for making the paper machine head base like this. It's lightweight and cheap, and the good thing about paper machine head base is that if we have it as a bottom later, then we don't have to use a lot of sculpting clay. We'll also need for paperclips and aluminum foil to create him and shoe bases. And then we'll need an inner drying clay to sculpt the head, create facial features and, at final layers, two hands and shoes. There are many types of clays. What is important is that it should be an inner dry clay, which allows you to work in layers so it can be connected to harden material and which can be drilled, salt and sand it after drying. This is the sculpting clay that I use. I like it because it's similar to wood. It's almost unbreakable, which is very important for me in this class. I'll show you how to work with this clay, but of course, you can use a different sculpting clay. Just be sure to check the instructions for use because they may differ. And we're also going to need an airtight container to store preferred clay and some sculpting tools. And after the head, hands and shoes are fully dry, we'll need a sandpaper to smoke them. It's also a good idea to have some protection against dust. To make a wooden body will need a timber last like this round wouldn't stake for legs. When it comes to dimensions, it all depends own how little and how big you want you murdering it to be to make a body like this, I have created a technical drawing, and they're also dimensions so you can download it if you want. We'll also need a bamboo stake to make upper arms and forearms. Our wouldn't beats will work as well if they're appropriate size. These are a custom made wooden beats the I use, but if you're a Marine, it is gonna have long sleeves. I think a bamboo stick will dio and it's easier to get. It just has to be something with a hole inside. For the controller will need three different wooden stakes. A rectangular steak like this for the main part for the light controller will need a flat stick, and we'll also need Athena Round Wooden Stake for the head controller. Again, you can download a Pdf file that I've attached to my class, and there you can find all dimensions. Okay, now let's move on to the connecting materials for joining. Thighs and calves together will need a strong fabric ribbon in a contact blue, and we'll also need a captain ribbon that is thin and soft enough so we can wrap it around wooden stakes to strengthen these joints using the water based dispersion glue. And we'll also need some small nails for touching lex to the pelvis, a fishing line for stringing. And I also use rubber bands when I want these lines to stay in place until the Marion it is prepared for stringing to attach arms to the body will need the fishing line to into two with fakes as well. We'll also need these to screw eyes and a small metal ring like this for a touching head to the body, then other to screw eyes of the same size that will go to the controller and one bigger screw I that we will drive into this front part of the controller. Then we'll need two long screws or nails. They will go to the head so we can string the marionette. Two small screws that will go to the back and pelvis, two pieces of thin wire for a touching shoes to the legs and one piece of thicker, wider like this so we can attach these two parts together and hang up the controller. Now, I'm gonna show you some tools we will be using, so we're going to need a drill in vice. Some pliers, a screwdriver, hammer, handsaw. Rassmann file will need the flat side, the round side and the round file as well. Tape measure ruler and an old flat brush for applying the glue for painting heads and hands . I use acrylic panes, small mixing bowls, various paintbrushes, water and some tissues to make hair will need some threads. I use thes mending threats. They come in many colors, and we'll also need a sewing machine in this class. I'll also show you how to sew a simple outfit for your marionette. We'll need a sewing machine and some fabrics if you want to. So an outfit like this or similar you can download and use the sewing patterns in pdf. That I attached to this class as well is the shoe template for shoes will need a fabric that does not fray. I mostly use an artificial leather, and we'll also need some pieces of annul T shirt and fell for souls and a threat of your choice for shoe laces. And, when it comes to tools, will need pins, needles, one needle with bigger I for shoe laces. Caesars. And it can also use an iron if you want, but it depends on the fabric you will be using. So these are attachments that you can download here. I have technical drawings for making the wooden body, arms and legs. These are the sewing patterns. This is a shoe template. Here's the technical drawing for making the wooden controller, And last but not least, I have made a laced off all these materials and tools that you'll need
4. Forming the Head Base: before we start forming the basic shape of head, we need a core something solely that's gonna be completely inside the head. This is a wooden court that I use is just a piece of rough wood with a wooden stick inside . It's firmly fixed so it can be pulled out. But since I want to make it easier for you, here's a little trick. We're gonna use an old wooden spoon with round handle. This is the part that's gonna be inside the head, something like a brain. And this part is gonna be the neck where an ice karube algo leader like this can. You see? This is very important joint That has to be strong. Now let's have a look at the sketch to see which party is gonna be the head itself and where the neck ends and mark the line. Word needs to be cut when using a handsaw. It's a good idea to use advice to hold the wooden's putting place. The pencil marks should be as close to the edge of the vice. It's possible this will avoid any unwanted vibrations and be very careful. Keep they had a good distance from the saw. Okay, this is our freshly got a wooden core, and now it's time to form the basic shape of head. This is a wooden spoon, 1/4 we have just made. It's quick and easy its all about using things. You haven't a hand, and if you don't have an old wooden spoon, you can buy one. It's pretty cheap now. Before making the basic shape of head, you can take your wooden spoon core and drill a hole into the neck. It's a whole for this crew. I that we will drive into the neck when it's all finished. I will be drilling that hole later after I have finished sculpting and sanding. I always do it at the end when the head is finished. But if you don't have much experience in using a drill, you'd better drill this hole now because now this is still just a wooden spoon. So now it's easier to place it in the vice. This is another wooden spoon corner. As you can see, I've just added this part about drilling into this video because later I realized that it can be easier to do it at this stage. So you can drill this hole now, or you can do it later. It's up to you now. Let's make the head base. It's gonna be inside the head as a bottom later. Something like this, but smaller. It will not be visible, so it doesn't have to look good. What we need is a material that's lightweight but also solid and firm. When it's fully dry, I'm gonna show you the paper machine technique. First, we're going to need some paper, and now we have a choice. I have a lot of shredded paper here. If you have a shredder and Freddie paper, you can use it, and that's a good way to recycle it. But if you don't have an access to that, you can simply use paper towels or tissues and tear them into small pieces. We'll also need some tap water starch powder. This is a laundry starch powder, which is soluble in cold water, and we'll also need a water based dispersion glue. So now we'll put the paper into a ball. The amount of the paper depends on hell be. We want the head to be. It's always better to have a little more just in case, we pour in some type of water to get wet, and then we have to squeeze the water out of the paper. We need to drain it. And because I'm doing it over the basin, I'm rather going to use an old save. So I'm gonna add the gluing there and mix it together and now at the starch at the start gradually, while kneading the paper until it's kind of slippery and slimy, because this is a good consistency to work with. Once you have it preferred, start working with this material right away because later it could lose its good consistency. If this happens, then just at a little more start and needed again. Now we can start forming the base. So let's have a look at this catch to see how big the hat should be, and we can start forming a bull around this wooden circle and squeeze it. We need to squeeze here out and made this material be as heart and dense. It's possible because of this Cruz that we will have to put into the head when it's finished, and now it's time for eye sockets. We need this empty space because later, we will have to form the eyeballs and place them inside. All right, the basis finished. It's lumpy and ugly, but it doesn't matter because this is gonna be inside. When it's fully dry, we will cover it with layers of sculpting clay. It seems a bit bigger when we compare it with the sketch, but that's OK because it tends to get a lot smaller while drying. Now this is hard because we have to be really patient and let it dry. It can actually take a whole week for this base to fully dry, or maybe less, because this one is smaller than my usual had bases, and it also depends on the room temperature weather in season. So if you can place it somewhere outside under the sun, it will dry more quickly. But we have a lot of work to do, so meanwhile, we can make other parts of the body
5. Hands and Shoes: Now let's started making the hands and shoes. This hands is a hand carved piece of wood. But now, to make it easier, we're going to use paperclips, aluminum foil. That's for making the base. And then we'll coded into a layer off modeling clay. So first things first, I'm gonna create hands so we'll take a paper clip and firm it into shape of hand like this . This is gonna be the core. This is the left hand. And this one is right, Lizzie ISP lighters to make something like a hook odor. And I hear, and another small I hear because we will need this part to connect it with a forearm. And this small I is for the fishing line so that later we can manipulate the hand. And now I'm gonna do the same with the other hand. And now we can use another two paperclips to form chorus for the shoes playing. This this is the foot, and this is gonna be the joint like the ankle. Now that we have all these cores, let's use the aluminum foil to form the basic shapes of hands and shoes. The fingers will be connected because this trip is easier to form. And don't forget to keep those ice and covered because we will need them later. And now let's wrap on the other hand core. All right. Now we can make the shoe basis. I'll rip them into the aluminum foil to create a shoe shape. Again, this joint has to stay outside. Okay, we're done with the basic shapes, and now it's time to prepare for a clay, and that's the final layer to each one piece. You can use any air drying clay, which allows it to work in layers, this cult in glaze in powder form, and I have to mix it with water so that I can work with it. So let's put the powder into a bowl when it comes to amounts. At this moment, I think it is enough to prepare clay just for the hands and shoes because they had bases still wet. So I'll prepare another clay when the hat basis fully dry. Now I'm gonna add some water. Be careful not to pour too much water into that just needed as a small amount of water needed at the water until he's had a good consistency to work with like this so we can easily form a ball. It's like a doe. Put it in an airtight container so that it won't dry, and you can not only use it now by the reserve it for later use as well. So here we have the hands and shoe bases, sculpting clay and some tools, and we also need a plastic cup with water. So let's take the hand base, and we can start cutting it into the clay to make it look like a hand. When you feel that, think lady sticky, dip your fingers in the water. It will also help you to smooth the surface. Don't worry if it's not perfect at this moment, because later we will make corrections when it's dry. You can also use some sculpting tools if you want, keep the clay in the container and always try to work with small amounts of it, little by little. Okay, now I'm gonna code the shoe basis and smooth them, - and when it's all finished, place it somewhere and let it dry. Now we have the head, base, hands and shoes. I recommend that you turned the model parts regularly during the drying period, and we are ready to move on by making the wooden body
6. Wooden Body: first, we're gonna make this wooden body. It's basically two pieces of wood glue together. It can also be made out of one piece. The thing is that we will have to get this notch here for a touching the legs. Here's a pdf I have created for you. I've just printed this out and you can find it below the video in your project section. So let's have a look at this technical drawing. You don't have to use these exact dimensions. Anyway. It depends on the correct story. Want to create? I'm creating the marina of a small boy, so I'm gonna use thes five centimeters. What? Timber laugh. Just remember that the water piece of what do you use? The weather, the body will be and the other way around. I'm just gonna show you the process of making it. And of course, you can adjust it if you want. So this is the weight. This is the thickness of one timber laugh. And this is the length. So I'm gonna mark the length. It's seven centimeters or two and 3/4 inches. This is a longer piece of wood, and I'm gonna mark the length of the shorter one. That's 5.5 centimeters or 2.2 inches. This is where it has to be cut. So now is your device and a handsaw to cut these two pieces. Okay, Now that we have these two pieces of wood preferred, we can glue them together. As we can see in the picture, I'm gonna use the water based dispersion glue. I'll use the clams to fix it if you don't have any, you can play something heavy on top of that, and we have to let it dry. So now let's make arms and legs. The next step is to cut the leg and arm pieces for Lex. I'm gonna use this wooden stake with a diameter off 1.5 centimeters or 0.6 inches. So first, don't mark the length of thighs six centimeters or 2.4 inches. And now the Cavs, five centimeters or two inches. Now let's take the bamboo stick and mark the length of the arms and forearms. This is the arm, and this is the forearm. And again, I'm gonna use device in the hands salt to cut all these pieces. - Now we need to remove a notch out of here. As you can see in the picture, this is the front view. This is a side view, and here we have dimensions. So first Omar at the center line, and I'm gonna mark the length of this notch. This is the part that we need to remove. I'm gonna show you how to do that. Before you get to this point, I recommend you slow down. Otherwise you're in danger of cutting it through this point. Now let's plays a thigh vertically in cutting here, and I'm gonna do exactly the same on the other thigh. Okay? Now we're gonna take the CAFS and make thes slots, so I'll take the shoes and measure this visible part of the paper clip to see how deep the slot should be. So it's about one centimeter Before we make joins, we have to use the rasp to remove thes parts so that the like convent like this the like should bend only backward. So I'll say the thigh and make the pencil marks. This is the knowledge we have already made. And this is where we need to rasp it on the other side of the thigh. so I'll place a thigh into the vice like this. The not has to be turned down and we're gonna be rasping on this side. Now we can use the file to smooth it a little bit. Okay, let's take the cafs and respite here in here on the same side. - Now I'm gonna do the same with the other thigh and the other Catholics will. Now, after about three hours when the glue has dried up, I'm gonna take the body and follow these lines to shape it. So first, I'm going to place it in the vice and take the Rassmann file again to make this socket like this. That's where we're gonna put the neck joint. Now let's raspy sports to give it a shape of waste. And last but not least, I'm gonna get rid of these sharp edges to make it look better. We can also use a send paper to smoke it all a little bit Before joining all these pieces together, we need to drill some holes. I've marked the points where we have to drill them. So let's start with the spine and drill one hole below the next socket and one hole in the middle of this lower part for these screws. I'm gonna use this thin Drillbit. If you don't have any experience in using a drill, you'd better ask somebody to help you with this. Now, let's drill a hole in the middle of the next socket. This hole is for this. Screw I Okay? I'm gonna take the thigh and drill a hole into the knee above this edge here, this hole is for the fishing line. Be careful not to drill too close to the edge. One hole into the one thigh and one into the other. And now we can drill two holes into each side of the shoulders again, not too close to each other and not too close to the edge. And the other side. Okay, we're done with the holes, and now we conjoined the thighs and calves together. Now we need to make knee joints. What we need to join these two pieces is a small strip off the strong fabric ribbon of these width and length just to fit into these rest areas. Then we're gonna use this longer strip. It's 100% cotton, and we're also gonna use these two types of glue. A universal contact glue and a water based dispersion Glue. First, I'm gonna apply the contact glue to these wooden areas and to each half of the fabric ribbons trip like this, try to keep a gap in the middle so that the Nikkan bends easily. And now let's wait 10 minutes. Okay? I think I can stick 1/2 of the ribbon to the calf. And now I'm gonna apply the dispersion glue here to seek one ends off this longer strip to the calf, and then I'm gonna apply this glue all the way around the wooden stake like this and wrap this trip firmly around the wooden stake. - Okay , Now let's take the other half of the ribbon to the thigh. And again, let's use the dispersion glue to wrap it in this longer strip. The next step is to cut another two strips of these fabric ribbon so that when we a touch too tight to the pelvis, it will cover this space from this point to this point. So this is gonna be the length of the Strip. And again, I'm gonna apply the contact glue here to these notches to the pelvis into this. Troops. Wait a few minutes, and now we can stick them together and rep them both in these longer strips. It's just the same process as we did on the knees. And now I'm gonna apply the glue to another one's troop and to the pelvis here and stick it . Okay, Now we should strengthen this pelvic joint with some nails, so it's gonna be a really strong joint. I'm gonna take a nail and drive it into the palace with a hammer so it goes through both strips and then into the wood. Want more? Okay, so here is the basic body. You can also glue form on it. If you wanted to be soft or even if you want to add more thickness to it, it's up to you. You may be wondering why didn't attach the arms and forearms to the body is because we have to finish the hands first. We need to sand and paint them, and it is always easier to do it when we have these hands separately. Then we can, during all these parts, the arm forearm enhanced together and attach them to the body. There are many types of joins many marina designs. Some of them are easier to me. Some of them are more complicated in it all depends on the result you need in all the purpose of the mori in it. If you want a puppet with only basic and simple movements or if you want dancing. Marina. I think this type of wooden body is very easy to make with no special equipment. But if you want your more in it to be more flexible and give it another movement here in the waste so it can do a better bow, you can simply make two piece body instead of one. Peace like this. This body is made out of two pieces that are connected by a cord. There are four vertical holes here, here, here and here, and to horizontal side holes in this upper piece, and they're connected by a piece of cord. I can also show you a different type of knee joint. This one looks better so it can be uncovered, which is good when you want your marina to wear shorts. There's this crew I inside the calf, and it's hanging on a small piece of whiter place inside this whole. But to make this whole, I use an end mill which I suppose you don't have at home. And that's why I find this joint more difficult to make. And therefore, I decided to show you how to make this sporting body with these easy to make joints. Okay, I think we're done with a wooden body. Maybe this lesson was a bit challenging and technical, but now we can move on and start working on more creative and artsy things. So now I'm going to check the head base to see if it's fully dry. If so, I'll prepare clay to start sculpting a face.
7. Sculpting the Head: the best way to find out if this paper mushy, had basis. Fully dry is just a knock on the surface. Ouch. It hurts a little bit. And if you try to make a nail prints into that, you can't. The surface is really hard, which is good. So now I'm gonna prepare this clay the same way as before when I was forming the hands and shoes. Okay. First, I'm gonna cover this front side of the head with the clay. I'm always dipping my fingers in the water so that I can smoke the surface. But of course, I'm trying not to overdo it with the water. The fingers should be just a little wet when forming the phase. You could be looking at the sketch to make sure it looks similar. Or you can improvise if you want. Now that the front side is fully covered with the clay, I'm gonna let it dry because these parties wit and I can't hold it. Oil sculpting. Okay, so now when the front side is dry, I'm gonna cover this back side of the head with a clay. The drying time depends on the thickness of the laters. These first layers are the thickest, and they're also large area. So now it takes longer to dry. Sometimes we have to let it dry overnight. But the next layers will be thinner and they will drive very quickly, even in one hour. So now I'm gonna check the sketch and start firming the chubby cheeks and the chin. And now I'm gonna form the eyeballs out of the clay. Or you can buy glass eyes if he wants, and place them inside these sockets instead of the clay eyeballs. But I personally have never tried to use the glass eyes yet I always form them out of the clay. And now I'm gonna form the islets before adding a new layer. I always moisten the right surface a little so that the layers feels with each other better . And I'm still comparing it with the sketch and adding new layers of the clay You. - Now I'm gonna make the nose, so I'll mark the point where the no should end and start forming it. And I'm gonna use this ball has been to form the nostrils, and now I can start forming the lips first. I'm gonna form the upper labor, let it dry and then I'll start forming the lower lip. I'm still adding new, laters and trying to form the facial features I like until I'm happy with them. That's why I prefer sculpting in laters, because every time I let it dry, go away and then come back. I see many mistakes that I have to fix what I make Public portrait's. I also need the side view of the face. But now when I'm making a fictional character, I can improvise a little bit. - Before I make some corrections, I'm gonna add one more layer into this part to form a skull so it won't be that flat, and it will look more like a head, and I have to let it dry. But since the nose is still a little bit, I'm gonna place it the backside down. And now it's time to make some corrections. This part doesn't have to be perfect because it will be covered with hair. All right, now we can start making the ears. So first I'm gonna use the pencil to mark where I want the years to go. Moisten the surface a little bit and now I can start forming in the ear again, I'm gonna sculpt in layers. So this is the first basic later. - This later will serve me as a base. So now I have to let it dry completely. I know that this waiting can be a little frustrating and annoying, especially when you're enthusiastic and you're in the creative mood. So if you want to feel that time somehow you can go to the next lesson, make some corrections on hands and issues, and then continue working on head sculpting. Make some parts of it, then correct something on hands and shoes again until you have all these parts the hat, hands and shoes done and fully dry. Then you can start to smooth them with a sandpaper. Okay, now I like those. Here's to be more visible. I think it's really cute when they're kind of sticking out. So now what is fully dry? Weaken at another layer, - and now it's time to form the inside of the year. - All right, and now let's check the head and make some final corrections. - All right, we have finished sculpting the head, which, in my opinion, is the most challenging part of Maureen and making. So now let's make some corrections and hands and shoes, and then we can send all those parts to make them look perfectly smooth.
8. Corrections and Sanding: Now let's add one more layer of the clay to the hands and shoes. I'm gonna start with the shoes. This all is still a little round, even though I flattened it before, so I'm gonna add one more layer of the clay on it and flatten it again and the other one and let them both dry. Now let's take the hands. And that's the clay on the half of its surface. Small things a little bit. And when it's dry out at the clay on the other half of it after the souls have dried, weaken at the clay later on the front part of the shoe to make it look better and let it dry. And when the hands are dry so that we can such this part and hold it from here, we can finish them by adding the clay here on the fingers. - So now they look better and they're prepared for sanding after they've dried, of course. So let's at the final layer on these back side of the shoes and let them dry. Okay, so once everything's preferred, we're done with sculpting and corrections. The hat hands on the shoes are fully dry we can start smoothing the surface using a sandpaper. I'm gonna use these sandpaper. It's 100 80 grit. The numbers can very depending on the country. Just remember that the higher the number, the finer the sandpaper is. And then I'll use the standings punch, which is finer, and it's not necessary. But I like it because it's flexible and good when sending round shapes. I also recommend that used some protection against dust. Eso. I'm going to snap a piece of the sandpaper and start sanding again. This part doesn't have to be sending because it will be covered with hair when it comes to shoes. I'm just going to get rid of these bumps, but I don't have to send the shoes completely because later I'll coach them into fabric. I'll show you how to do that later. So this is the hat. It's fully sanded and almost preferred for painting as it almost because now we should drill a hole to the neck right here. It's for this crew. I I'm gonna use the same drill bit that I used before. We're making the wooden body, but first I'm gonna take a nail and poke a small hole here to prevent the drill bit from wandering on the surface so that it fits perfectly into this point and it stays exactly where he wanted. I'm gonna take the head, hold it firmly and drill a vertical hole into the neck. I tend to do this at the very end before stringing. But now I decided to do it in this lesson when the head is not painted yet. Okay. And now we're ready to move on and start painting.
9. Painting: for painting. I always use acrylic panes. We're going to need some skin tone, red color, brown color, black, white and also some color for the ice. I'm gonna use blue. You can use whatever I color you like, and we'll also need some clean water, some small mixing bowls, tissues or paper towels and some paintbrushes. I mostly used these brushes, this one for details, this one for applying the skin color and this round brush appreciating larger areas. First, I'm gonna apply the white to the eye areas. I always makes the pain with small amount of water in order to thin it a little bit so that it's easier to spread. Don't worry if Ugo outside these areas, because later we will apply the skin tone to the islets and then you can be doing it more precisely. So now when the white is dry, let's apply this skin tone to the head. First, I'm going to apply the pains to the islets using this small thing round brush, and now I can apply it to the entire head and on the hands as well, using this bigger flat brush, and I have to let it dry I always pain something and let it dry. And while one party's drying, I'm painting another one. And now I'm gonna apply another layer and make some corrections to make sure they had enhance are fully covered with the paint. OK, now it's time to use the red color and at some blush to the cheeks and other parts to make the face look healthier and more alive. But I don't want to use this pain straight from the jar because is really strong and kind of aggressive. So first I'm going to soften it a little bit. So now I'm gonna makes the color with this king color in this small mixing bowl, and I'd like to get smooth transitions between the skin tone and this rosy pinkish color. So before applying this pinkish color, I'm gonna apply the skin color to the cheek to make it wet again. But I'm applying it to the larger area. And now, while it's still, but I'm gonna apply a bit of the pinkish color on the cheek and blend them together, I'm trying to get a smooth radiant. You have to be really patient with this. You can also practice on the back of the head if you want. If you're not happy with that, or if you feel like you've or ended, then just repaint that area with the skin color. Let it fully dry. Then apply another layer of the skin color to make it away. Hands right again with a pinkish color. These greedy ins can also be painted with an airbrush. Then you could get really perfect and smooth transitions between colors. I've been using an airbrush for two years, but I didn't want to use it now because that would be another special thing. You probably don't have a home, so I wanted to show you how to do it this way. Okay, Once you're happy with that, you can repeat this process and apply this pinkish color on the other cheek. And you can also apply these color on the chin on the nose tape on the ears and on the palms in between the fingers as well. Okay, now let's take the thin brush and use the same color to paint the lips, and we can apply this color on the nails as well. Now I'm gonna take the white and make some corrections here on the eyeballs and because I am working with the white right now, I'm also gonna being the fingernails. And before painting the ice, I always shade the eyeballs a bit. So now I'm gonna makes the whites with a very small amount of the skin color. So it's just a little darker in kind of ivory. And we can also delude a bit of blue with the water to make it almost transparent and applied carefully to the sites of the eyeballs. All right, now it's time to paint the eyes. So first, let's pains the irises. I'm gonna make them blue. So now I'm preparing the dark blue color. This is the blue from the jar mix with a little bit of the skin color So it looks more natural to paint the iris. I always use three shades of the same color. So here I have the dark blue. Now I'm gonna make the medium blue by mixing the dark blue with a bit of white And this is the light blue First I'm gonna pain to the iris with a dark blue in the middle of the eyeball and I'm making it bigger and bigger until I'm happy with the shape and the size of it. But you can mark them with a pencil first. If you want in, then start painting them. And I'm trying to make them both symmetric. Now I'm gonna apply the medium blue to the iris. But at the same time, I'm keeping a thing contour of the darker blue visible here around the iris as Willis in this upper area right below the island. And I'm gonna apply the light blue to this lower part of the iris. We could also shaded and make some greedy INTs and at something lines. Okay, Now we can make the people's I'm gonna paint them black, so I'm starting in the middle of the iris. I'm doing it very carefully and trying to make the people increasingly bigger and bigger. I always give big pupils to my Marie Nets because we associate big pupils with acuteness. Okay, Now I'm gonna add some black hair to the very top of the iris under the eyelid. And now that the black has dried, I decided to add some more whites to the lower part of the iris. All right. And now I'm gonna put the finishing touch to the ice by eating one little white dot here and one here to create a reflection and get more life into the ice. All right, now, I'm gonna use a very tiny little bit of the brown color and diluted with water in this cup , so it becomes really transparent and soft. So now, after dipping the round brush in this transparent brown, I'm going to use a tissue to wipe excess water. So now it's just a little bit of wet, but it's not dripping because I don't want the pains to be pouring down the face. And I'm gonna put this transparent brown to the eye corners on the nose area and under the nose very carefully. We can also shade the lips a little bit with a thin brush. We can put this color inside the ears and then shade the areas under the cheeks, and I'm gonna add some more brown into the cup to make it less transparent and more visible and apply to the islets very carefully to the eye corners and between the fingers on both sides. And now, before making the eyebrows, I'm going to add a bit of the blue into this brown to make it a little colder. Because now I find this brown too warm for the eyebrows. And again, I need the pain birds to be almost dry so that I can precisely and carefully drill small lines until I get the eyebrow shape I like. I want the eyebrows to be very light and soft. All right. And now this is not necessary. But I really like freckles. I find them cute and interesting. So I'm gonna paint some dots on this nose area. Not very carefully trying not to overdo it again. The brush is almost dry because I don't want to have any drops here. Okay? And once we're happy with how it looks, we can start making hair.
10. Hair: to make hair for my marinas. I always use these mending threats. The number of them depends on the head size and on Health Inc And how long I want there to be. This boy will have short hair, so I'm gonna use eight pieces. I decided to make it brown, but I never used only one shade. Always combine several shades of the color in order to make the hair look more natural. Now, I've picked four pieces of this dark brown two pieces of this brown and the two of this one . So I'm going to take the ends of each one threat and repped Immel around a book. Be careful not to tangle them while winding. Now I'm gonna carefully remove the threats from the book trying not to tangle him, and I'm gonna cut it like that. So now I have one long piece of hair and I'm gonna cut it once again in the middle to get to equal sections of hair. What I make long hair. I use more pieces of mending threats 10 12 or so to make it thicker. And I cut it only once. So it stays long and then split it into two pieces like this. Now I'm going to take one section and so straight line here in the middle in order to anchor the threats together, the color of the threat in the sewing machine should match the color of the hair when sowing, the threats should be close together. So there are no gaps between them. And I'm suing in several times so that the seam is gonna be really strong. And now I'm gonna plays the middle part of the other section of hair on top of the 1st 1 to get across like this and sew them together right here. Okay, Now, when the threat told together, we can use a comb to kind of combine them. So now it finally looks like a week. Now we need to apply the glue on these back side of the head I'm gonna use to this Persian blue. But be careful not to glue the hair here to these temple areas because later we will have to put the screws or nails into the hat. And now I'm gonna carefully put the hair on the head. All right. And now I'm going to use a comb and scissors and cut the hair. Now I like this hair to hold together and stay in place. So I'm gonna glue these parts to the back side of the head, but very carefully trying to cover the glue with the hair so it's not visible. - Okay , now I'm gonna let it dry and leave it as it is until the marina is strong. And then after stringing, I'll glue these parts to the head and make some corrections.
11. Preparing Lines for Stringing: for stringing. I used this fishing line with a diameter off 1/2 a millimeter. Now we should decide on the length of each one line. These are the public portrait I make. But these marionettes are much toller and heavier than the one I'm working on in this class . So I decided to set the length of the lines by these marionettes because they're smaller. They're designed for a table theater. So this is the distance between the controller and Mary in its feet. It's about 65 centimeters or 26 inches. But of course, you can sell your own distance. If you're not sure what distance is the best for you right now, then just watch this video to see the length of the lines that I'm going to use, and you can cut them much longer, just in case so that later you can set that distance according to your specific needs. Now, this marina is gonna serve Meus a model. I have measured all these lines to know how long they should be, and I've also added some extra 15 centimeters to it for attaching to a controller. So for the back, I'm gonna use 75 centimeters long line, which is 30 inches. The extra length is already included. And now, before cutting the other lines, I'm gonna attach this one to the back first. Because if I had them all here on the table, I wouldn't know which is which. So I'm gonna drive one of these two screws to this upper hole, but not fully. I'm going to keep it a little bit above the surface so I can take the line anti. A strong multiple. Not around this crew. We can also use pliers to tighten it. Now I'm gonna hold the line heaven and oriented this way, upwards and finish screwing. And now I can cut the rest of the line. Be careful not to cut it here. And because I want this line sustain place, I'm going to use a rubber bands to fix it. Okay, Now I'm going to cut another line. This one is a bit longer. It's 80 centimeters or 32 inches long, and I'm gonna attach it to this lower part of the back to the pelvis the same way a sided before. Now let's got thes two lines. They're gonna go to the knees in their 90 centimeters long or 35 inches. These lines are equal, so I'm gonna cut the two of them before attaching to the knees. I have to take a pin, find the knee holes and poke them again because now they're covered with the fabric. And I'm also gonna sharpen the edge of the line with scissors so I can easily insert that line through the hole. And I'm gonna tie a strong multiple not on this side of the line as the end of it. So it stays on these back side of the knee, - and we also need thes two lines. They're equally long to the lengthy 75 centimeters or 30 inches. But we're not going to attach them now. Oh, we will need them later to string the marionette. I'm just gonna mark them and put them aside to have them prep erred when stringing. And last but not least, I'm gonna cut the lines that will be used for attaching arms, forearms enhanced to the body. So now we need to equal 50 centimeters long lines or 20 inches. All right, And now that we have all these lines prepared, we can go to the next lesson and attach the arms and hands to the body
12. Attaching Arms and Hands: Now we're gonna need these two pieces of fishing line that we cut in previous lesson. Wooden toothpicks in the dispersion glue. I'm going to take one of these two lines in, insert one end of it through the upper arm, through the forearm through the hand and then back through the forearm in the upper arm like I was stringing beats. And I'm gonna take both ends of the fishing line and insert one of them through the one shoulder hole in one. Threw the other hole before a touching Always ensured that the right hand is on the right side of the body on the left hand is on the left side like this. And now I'm gonna set the length. The arm should not be too high because then it would be too tight and we couldn't move it. And not too low, either. It should be just like this so it can bend easily. And once I've set the length, I'm still holding in here, and I'm gonna use one tooth bake depite sharp ends in the glue and in 32 the whole and break it here, and I'm gonna insert the other sharp end to the other hole and break it, too. Now it's fixed. The toothpicks prevent the fishing line from moving. And I'm going to tie a multiple. Not here. So now that we have one arm attached to the body, we can regret this process once again to attach the other one. All right. And now we can start looking for some fabrics, because in the next lesson, we're gonna be suing the sweatshirt and pens.
13. Sewing Clothes: in this video, I'm gonna teach you how to solve very simple pants and a sweatshirt or a long sleeve T shirt for a small moderate like this. This is not a professional sewing video. It's very quick and easy sewing project. And of course, this is just an example. Maybe you want to use totally different outfit for you, Mariana, I'm just gonna show you how to solve these very simple clothes that are suitable for this kind of puppet. These are the patterns I'm gonna use and again you can find. This Pdf below the video you can print it out and cut out each one piece like this for the sweatshirt. I decided to use this piece of striped fabric You can use an All T shirt or whatever fabric you want. My rule of thumb is that for marine ISS, the fabrics should be thin and soft enough so they don't restrict movements of the marine, it for pens. I'm going to use this fabric. It looks like denim, but this is a thin and self material. Maybe you're asking how much fabric you need will on these pattern pieces. There are also numbers How many pieces you needs off each one shape. So when I place him onto the fabric, it's two sleeves in one big piece for the sweatshirt. We also need some extra space for sewing. I see if it's enough or if I have to use another bigger piece of fabric. Okay, so now it's time to trace the patterns on the fabric. So I'm going to start with a sweatshirt, and now I'm gonna cut it out, leaving about five millimeters off a C. Malone's. It's just the extra fabric, so the stitching isn't too close to the edge. And now I'm gonna continue with the sleeves and need the two of them. So I'm going to full the fabric over, and I want to make sure that it is wide enough to fit my pattern. I'm gonna trace the pattern and cut this leaves out. Okay, Now let's cut out the pans again. I need the shape twice, so I'm gonna fall the fabric in half, pain the pattern on and cut it out. Okay, Now that we have all these pieces preferred, we can start sewing. So I'm going to start with the pants first. I'm gonna fold up the bottom of the fabric on both pieces by about one centimeter towards the wrong side of the fabric. This is the wrong site, and this is the right side. Now it's difficult to tell the right side from the wrong side, because in this case, both sides look very similar. And I'm gonna sell a straight line here as close to the folded edge as possible. This home will keep these edges from fraying. Now I'm gonna place these two pieces of the fabric one on another so that the right sides are facing each other there, inside and the wrong size are outside. And I'm gonna be sewing from this point to this point. I always saw a few stitches in rivers when I start and when I get to the end s well to secure the stitches. So now you should get something like this. It's starting to look like pants. Now we need to measure the crotch of both pieces up in now. Both pieces should line up. Okay, so I'm going to so one continuous seem from this point to this point. Now I'm just gonna turn the pans right side out. Put them on the wooden body to see if they fit full down the waistline. And so it all the way around. And that's it. The pants are done. When it's all finished, we can take in the waist of pans by folding and stitching them here on both sides to make them fit better. But now we need them as they are, so that we have an access to the fishing lines. Okay, and I'm gonna sell the sweatshirt. So now we have to pin this around part of the sleeve to this part of the sweatshirt. First, I'm going to pin the edges together, and now I'm trying to line both sides up. So it should look like this and again, the right size air facing each other. And we're gonna be sewing on the wrong side. And now we can do exactly the same with the other sleeve. Okay, Now we have to solve this part from this points to this point and the other side as well to join both sides together. Now, let's turn to the right side out. Put it on the wooden body. You can fold it here and make a him if you want to prevent the edge from fraying. But since my fabric does not Frey, I'm gonna keep it as it iss. Okay, so now that we have finished sewing, we can go to the next video.
14. Dressing the Marionette: before putting the clothes on the body. We have to drive this crew out to this neck hole. First, I'm going to dip this crew in the dispersion glue to make these joint even stronger. Okay, now that we have the pants pulled down the Mariana, we can untangle one of the lines which is under the fabric. Sharpen the edge with scissors, find the point where the line is attached to the knee and then bring the sharp and on the line back out through the fabric from the inside. From this very point like this, it's always easier to do it with pliers or forceps. And now I'm gonna do exactly the same with each one line, - okay ? And now I can take in the waist of the pans to make them fit better, insane place. And now we should make a small cut on the sweatshirt here about the next crew because we need to have an access to that screw when attaching the head to the body and because we will be manipulating in a lot while attaching so it could fray or get bigger. It depends on the material. I'm going to apply a little bit of the dispersion glue here to the edges of the small hole , just in case and let it dry. So now, after drying the glue has created an invisible film like this. All right, so now let's go to the next lesson.
15. Finishing the Shoes: Now I'm gonna show you how to make this type of shoes. It's a shoe based coated in the fabric. Now for these truths, I'm gonna use this artificial leather. I like to use this material because it does not free once it's cut. I'm also gonna use an old T shirt. Especially it's him. This folded edge for cells. I'm gonna use a piece of felt stands for shoe laces. I decided to use this bloom ending threat. So first thing I'm going to do is apply the dispersion glue onto the shoe and coated into this oval shaped piece of fabric that I've cut out of this old T shirt. I have to make a small cut here so that I can put it through the paper clip. This piece of fabric should be big enough so that I can quote the shoe into that and glue these rest of the fabric to the bottom of the shoe like that. So this is the first later that covers the shoe, especially this part around the paperclip, which is gonna be visible. So now it looks better. Sometimes I glue socks here, they look like tunnels. But I'm not gonna use them now because I want you to see this area within touching the shoes to the legs. So now I'm gonna keep it uncovered. Now, here's a template I've created for you. You can download it and use it as well. Or you can all terrain so that it fits the shoes you have created. Maybe they're bigger or smaller or have a different shape. So to make these shoes look more like shoes, we need these two pieces. So I've cut each one piece out of this artificial leather twice, and now I'm gonna glue them onto the shoes for a gluing fake leather. I always use a universal contact glue. So first, I'm gonna apply it to this part of the truth into this piece of the artificial leather, except for the tongue. And wait at least 10 minutes, and now I can join them. - Okay , Now I need to glue these peace unto the shrew, so I'm gonna apply the contact glue into this area into these peace, but not to the entire surface, because we need to leave some space for laces. - Now it's time to use this folded edge of the T shirt to create something like a room around the shoe here. So I'm gonna cut two strips out of this edge. They should belong enough to create a room all the way around the shoe. The now we can cut off the rest of the strip and use a dispersion glue to fix this part and to glue this part to the bottom. And I'm gonna use this fell to make souls. But now the surface is a bit uneven. So first I need to fill this hole apart. So I'm gonna cause a small piece of felled that fits into this area and glue it here and now I'm going to cut a bigger piece of felt, then apply the dispersion glued to the in tatter bottom of the shoe and glue that piece on it. And after it has dried elk up the rest of the felt. Okay, Now, let's make the shoe laces for shoe laces. I'm gonna use this mending threat and, of course, a needle with an ID that is big enough for this kind of threat. So first I'm gonna poke four holes with a needle on each side and on boat shoes to kind of design their location. These holes should not be too close to each other, that there should be enough space between them. And now I can threaten the needle inserted into the first hole from the outside and continue working in a diagonal direction until we get back to the first hole. - And now we can tie the two remaining ends in a bow skins. We can also apply a little bit of the dispersion glued to these ends, all right, And now we can use your creativity and decorate the shoes at some final details. You can use a metal league pains to create metal holes, or you can create a pattern of that will make the shoes look older. You can also paint a lago just whatever you like to make them unique and interesting. The And once you are happy with them, you can attach them to the likes. I'm gonna show you how to do that. In the next video
16. Attaching the Shoes: Now that the shoes are finished, we're going to need two pieces of straight wider like these. They're gonna hold the shoes inside thes slots. So first, I'm going to insert this paperclip part of the shoe inside the slot in the calf and choose a location for the wire. Ah, the wider will hold that paperclip. So it should be under the top of the paper clip, but not too close to it because we want the shoe to bend easily. So in this case, the wider should be placed somewhere here as this height. And I'm going to use a pencil to mark that point. So this is where I'm going to drill the holes. The drill bit has to be angled perpendicular to the calf, and it has to go through the calf through the slot and appear on the opposite side of the calf. So now I'm gonna plays the calf in the vice again. We can poke a small hole here to prevent the drill bit from wandering in the surface, check if it's angled perpendicular to the calf and start drilling. Okay, so now I can place that paperclip part of the shrew into the slot and bring one piece of wire from one side of the calf to the other side through the paper clip, and I'm gonna use Plight er's to bend both ends of the wider. We can also use a hammer to drive those sense into the just a little bit to keep the wider from rotating.
17. Attaching the Head: Now we have to drive this crew I into this neck hole again. This crew is dipped in the dispersion glue, both eyes. This upper I that's in the head. And this lower I that's in the body should be oriented the same way like that. And now we need to join them together. So now we're going to need something like this. This is a small metal ring. I buy these in the hardware store. They come in different sizes, and there is a tiny gap here so I can open it. It's not that easy. Of course I have to use a vice and pliers to open it. Okay. And now I conjoined both eyes by this metal ring. If the hat seems to be too close to the body and looks unnatural, then just use Big Goring instead. Be careful not to drop the head or the body while attaching. So now I'm gonna use pliers to close that ring. All right? And now that the head and the body are attached to each other, we're gonna go to the next step and make a wouldn't controller
18. Making the Controller: This is one of my controllers in his three parts the main part the controller and the like controller. This is the main part. It has a hole or a slot here for placing the head controller. There are also to screw eyes in this main part for controlling the upper and lower part of the back. And this is the like controller. There is also a screw I for moving the hands. So now we're going to need these three pieces of wood for the main part. Will need a rectangular wooden stick. Or you can use the rest of the timber laugh that you used for the wooden body and cut it to these shape and size for the head controller Will need around stick. This one has a diameter off eight millimeters. It just has to fit into this slop. And for the let controller will need a flat steak like this so you can download this technical drawing printed out. And once you have all these wooden stakes, you can cut them to these sizes. And now that we have all three pieces of wood cut to the size is we need to make this slot in the main part. So first I'm gonna mark its exact location. So now this lot can be cut with end mill. But I'm gonna show you how to make it with ordinary drill bits. First, I'm gonna Marcus Santo line in, drill several holes within this mark area using a thing, Drillbit, and I'm going to use a larger bid. But it should not be thicker than this dimension to enlarge the slot. - And after that, I'm gonna use a file to get rid of excess wood trying to get that design shape. - Okay , now we need to shave thes parts of the like controller. It's not just for aesthetic reasons. We have to remove these parts to make this border more lightweight as well. And at the end of the day, it's more comfortable to hold on manipulated when it's shaped like this. So I've marked the parts that have to be removed. First, I'm going to remove thes rectangular parts, - and I'm gonna use the file again to get rid of these sharp edges. - All right, now we need to drill all these holes exactly where they're marked on these paper. So first I'm gonna drill these three holes into the main part. These two holes are for these small screw eyes, and this front hole is for the bigger one. - Now let's drill these three holes into the light controller. - And because this middle hole is for the bigger screw, I I'm gonna enlarge it with this bit. This is the point at which the let controller will be rotating, so the whole shouldn't be too tight. And now we need to drill these three holes into the head controller. And because now we're working with round stick, we have to be sure that all these three holes are oriented the same way they have the same direction again. This bar, it should rotate like this. So I'm going to use larger bid. - Okay , Now we can drive these to screw eyes into these two holes. And now, before attaching these two parts together, we have to balance this like controller. So when I insert a pin or a needle into this middle hole, it must remain horizontal. It should not be leaning to any side. If any side is leaning, we have to use a file to remove a little bit of wood from that side and tried again until it stays horizontal. Okay, so now we can attach this, like controller to the main part by this crew. I This one is a bit bigger, but now I'm not trying to drive it fully into the wood, because I need to keep this Bart flexible. Okay? And now it's time to find the center of gravity of the controller. So now we can take a toothpick or a needle inserted to this slot like this in order to find the point at which the controller is in balance, it has to remain horizontal. This is important because we want the marina to stand up straight. And once we found that balancing point, we can market with a marker or a pencil. Okay? And now it can drill a vertical hole into this very point. This is where we'll put the wire. It will go all the way through this main part. So I'm gonna use this bit and drill that hole, all right? And now it's time to attach the head controller to this main part by this piece of wire. But first, I'm gonna bend it to create a hook like this and Now I can insert it all the way through the main part and through the head controller, and I'm gonna bend this end of wire so we can't be pulled out. Okay, so now let's string the marionette into the controller.
19. Stringing the Marionette: Okay, so now we can string are Marinette onto the controller. I always start with the head. So first I'm gonna take the marionette and I have to find the points where the screws will go So I'm gonna live the marionette and hold the head on both sides as thes temple areas with my thumb and middle finger like that And I'm trying to find the center of gravity they had should remain in straight position if this crews were placed, let's say here more on this front side of the head, the head would be looking up. If I place them more here to the back side of the head, it would be looking down. So once we found the center of gravity. So the head is in the neutral position, looking straight ahead. We can use a pencil to mark that two points. So this is where we're gonna put this cruise. And now we have a choice. You can either use nails, then you wouldn't have to drill any holes, which is good. Especially when you haven't much experience. And using a drill, you can just drive the nails into the head with a hammer or you can use Cruise. In that case, you have to use a drill, but they hold better because of the threats. And the next good thing about screws is that they can be easily removed. So I decided to use Cruise when drilling into the head. We have to be really careful again. I'm gonna poke two holes into these two points with a nail. First, put the hair aside and hold it to keep it from getting caught into the rotating Drillbit. This is very important. I've had it happen and I'm holding the head like this to cover the face. The drill bit is angled perpendicular to the head, and now we can start drilling. Now, I'm gonna dip one of this cruise in the dispersion glue and drive it into the head. And again, I'm leaving it a little bit above the surface so I can take one of these two lines that we cut when we were preparing lines for stringing and tie a multiple, not around the screw. And now I can finish screwing. I always find it kind of morbid to drill into finished head, but this step is inevitable. Maybe we're asking why didn't do this when the head was unfinished, unpainted without hair, etcetera. The reason I'm doing it now in this lesson is that the weight of the body, after it's been attached to the head has an influence on the center of gravity of the head . We wouldn't be able to find ideals parts for this cruise without the body attached to the head. That's the reason we have to do it now. Okay, so now that both lines are attached to the head, we can start stringing the marionette onto the controller. Now, we need something to hang the controller up so that the distance between the table in the controller is approximately 65 centimeters or 26 inches. That's my favorite distance so that I can easily hold and work my marionettes off course. This is a small table marionette. You can set your own distance according to your specific needs. So I'm gonna hang up the controller using a piece of cord so that I can set this length for stringing my marionettes. I use this metal rock, which is attached to the wall, but you can also use a drying rack. Okay, so I'm gonna take one of the lines that are attached to the head. Put it through the hole in the controller, which is on the same side. Set the length so that the marina is standing up straight and I'm gonna tie a single. Not, but at the same time, I'm holding the other line a swell. Trying not to drop the marionette. And now I'm gonna put it through the other hole. Set the length Anti of double. Not here. So now one side is fixed and I'm gonna check the first line Anti double, not here as well. And once the Mariana is standing correctly, we can finish tying these knots to make them multiple and really strong. And now we can glue the hair into these areas to cover this cruise. Okay, so let's continue and set the length of the back line. This line goes to this crew. I it shouldn't be too tight. Nort ilo's. Now let's tie the line which is in the pelvis. Always check if the marina is standing up straight and now I'm gonna tie the lines that go from the knees. Just ensure that the light controller is in the correct position It has to be horizontal, and the feet have to be in the correct position to the shoes should not be lifted up. They should be touching the table. All right, we're almost done. Now. We have to string the hands. So I'm gonna say the fishing line put its end through this front I And through this small I on the hand that we created out of the paper clip Anti multiple, not here. Both hands are gonna be connected by one fishing line. So I'm gonna cut it here because I need some extra length for tying. And once I've set the correct length, I can tie in multiple. Not here around the other small I and that's it. We're down with stringing and the Marion it is finished. So now it's not. It's anymore. It's him. It's a little boy. So I'm gonna take him down off the court and show you how he moves. So here we have the controller. When we turn these border left and right, he shakes his head like this when we pulled his back line weaken, bring the head down. When we pull this line, which is in the lower part of the back. He can bent over by pulling this line up and down. We can manipulate his hands. We can move both hands at the same time, or just one of them. Here we have the let controller. So now is I'm moving these bar from sites aside, he's walking. Or when I only pull one of these lines up, he lifts just one. Like so he can kneel like that. And of course, you can combine these movements. There are many options. It just takes practice, you know. Okay.
20. Final Thoughts: So this is my finished marina. It's a little cartoonish. The eyes are much bigger than human eyes. I just wanted to be creative and slightly move away from traditional human anatomy just to make him look more cute. So now perhaps I should give him a name. And because I live in Slovakia, I'll go for something typical slow back in. I'm gonna call him Johnny Chuckle. In this class, I wanted to show you a type of marina that it's easy to make and functional at the same time. Even though the body is very simple, I think he moves naturally. Every single joint works and he's really strong. And once you managed to create this simple type of marina, you can upgrade your skills. You can try new options when it comes to clothes, hair, shoes, wooden body joins there really many variations. I know it takes a lot of patients, but if you have completed your Mirena, I hope you share the pictures with me in. I would really love to see what do you have created or what you're working on. So thank you for watching, and I hope you've enjoyed this class
Barbora Mihoková, Puppet Maker
