LEFT-HANDED VERSION: Crochet Your First Garments Using the Hexagon Method

1. Crochet Your Garments Preview : Crocheting garments can feel intimidating at first. You're not quite sure where to start. You try, unravel, start again, and eventually put it all aside. But in this course, I'll show you the essential basics of building a crochet garment simply step by step. Hi, I'm Emilie, the French Canadian designer behind Crochetmilie Brand, and I'm so happy to present you my new course on crocheting your own garments. I've spent the last year researching and most of all, testing the smoothest construction methods with as little inning as possible to create crochet garments you'll actually want to wear, and you will learn how to easily adapt them to different sizes for women, men, or kids. In this first class of my garment series, my goal is to make you feel excited about crocheting your own garments. To ease you into it, we'll focus on one construction method, the granny hexagon technique. The garment will take shape as you go without needing to make a gouge swatch. You won't have to second guess what you're doing. I'll guide you through every step so you know what to measure and how to adjust your project. Even if you just learned how to archea, you'll be able to follow the instructions and make your first garment in just a few hours. I'll guide you through your choices, garment, care, and how to make your crochet sessions more enjoyable. As always, every video will also have a left handed version. You're ready? Let's get started. 2. Projects Intro: To really understand the hexagon construction method, I will walk you to three different projects that will crochet together along the course. We'll start with a simple cardigan, which will introduce you to the concept. Then I'll show you how to use the same technique to make a slightly more fitted sweater. And finally, we'll take things a step further with the Snuggly Cardigan, where you'll learn how to customize your garment even more. With everything you learn, you'll be able to adapt and create your own garment styles using this method. 3. The Crochetmilie Method: Before we begin, I'm going to talk a little bit about the difference between crocheted and knitted garments. Knitting is naturally more elastic. The stitches can stretch easily, which allows you to create very malleable garments. Crochet, on the other hand, is a bit more structured and less stretchy. That's why we will choose stitches that create a beautiful drape and allow a little more space between the body and the garment measurement, what we call ease, so that it's as flexible as possible, comfortable to wear, and do not look like we're wearing a cardboard box. With the right techniques and the right choice of materials and stitches, you can create crocheted garments that you actually want to wear. That's exactly what we're going to see in this class and the ones that will follow. I'm going to show you some simple stitch combinations that you can apply to all techniques and any garment. We'll start with the granny stitch, which is made up of a shell of three double crochet. It's a perfect stitch for starting clothing because it is naturally airy, flexible, and easy to work with. It requires little concentration after two or three rows. You'll notice that my method is a little different from what you usually see in patterns. With me, instead of simply following stitch counts based on a specific gouge swatch, we'll work with clear checkpoints and target measurements. My goal is for you to understand what you are doing at each step and to move forward with confidence in your project. We'll keep it simple, pleasant to follow and above all, adaptable to your crocheting style. You can use the yarn you like and maintain your own tension without compromising the result. I'm going to share all the little tricks for a beautiful finish, edgings that don't curl, well hidden threads, and all the little details that give a polished look. In the next video, we'll discover together the hexagon technique. 4. Understand the Hexagon Technique: Let's take a look at the process together so you can understand how a garment is constructed using the granny hexagon technique. If you've taken the granny squares course, you already have a head start in understanding granny hexagon, diagrams, and different types of seams. But don't worry if you haven't taken it. I'll cover everything essential for this course. With this method, the garment is made from two identical hexagons. A hexagon is a shape with six sides. We will crochet in joined rounds and increasing in each corner every round to maintain its shape. But what makes this technique so interesting is that the hexagon doesn't stay flat like a misshapen dole. When folded a certain way, it naturally forms a sleeve, as well as the front and back of half the garment from the single shape. Instead of crocheting several separate pieces, a large portion of the structure is already created directly from the hexagon itself. When we join the two pieces together, our garment begins to take shape. From this foundation, we can then lengthen the sleeves, at length to the body, adjust the front opening, or customize it to achieve the style we want. That's what makes this technique particularly interesting and perfect for beginners. With a single basic shape, you can create many different garments. I've designed the projects in this course to follow a progressive learning path. I recommend starting with the first project because that's where I'll explain the technique in detail, including how to read diagrams and understand the little formulas used throughout the course. I've also taught about those who don't necessarily want to understand every calculation behind the final result. Throughout the projects, you'll always have two options. You can either follow precalculated measurements based on standard sizing or create a custom fit garment while learning the concepts behind the construction. This will help you become more independent and eventually create your own designs. I invite you to watch the next video to learn how to take your measurements. 5. Taking your Measurements: To determine the size of your first cardigan, we'll take a few important measurements. For this course, I'll be working in inches, much like in construction. Except here, we're building garments instead of houses. But if you prefer working in centimeters, that works just as well. If so, you can simply run to the nearest centimeter. 1 " equals approximately 2.5 centimeters. If you're not comfortable reading quarter inches or half inches, here's an easy way to identify them. The line in the middle of each inch marks the half inch. And halfway between each half inch, you'll find a quarter inch and the three quarter inch marks. I write them the same way they appear on a calculator. 0.25 is one quarter. 0.5 is one half, and 0.75 is three quarters. If that feels confusing, think of money. It's the same idea. Four quarters make $1. For these projects, we will use four main measurements. I'll show you how to take them on yourself. But if you're making a garment for someone else, or you'd rather follow standard sizing, I've included measurement charts commonly used in the sewing industry. You'll find sizes from small to five large for women, small to five large for men, and ages two to 16 for children. You'll find these charts below the video as well as in the downloadable course documents. The first measurement to take is your bust circumference. This measurement will help us determine the width of the garment. Wrap your measuring tape around the fullest part of your upper body while taking a deep breath in, ideally over a lightweight sweater. Take the measurement two or three times just to make sure. It doesn't need to be perfectly precise. I'd say within an inch is perfectly fine. It's very important to write this measure down. I've included a printable PDF in the course documents where you can record your measurements and project information. The second measurement is your desired garment length. This will depend on the pattern or the length you'd like your cardigan to be. Place the measuring tape at the top center between your neck and shoulder, then measure down over the fullst part of your bust to your desired length. The standard method is usually to measure from the back. However, I prefer measuring from the front because crochet fabric is generally less stretchy and gives a more accurate finished length once worn. Feel free to use whichever method you prefer and record this measurement to the nearest half inch. I've also included a chart with approximate length if you're unsure between two values. The third measurement is from the center back at the base of your neck to your wrist. This measurement will help us determine the sleeve length. Place the tape at the base of your neck on your back, bring it over your shoulder and hold it in place. You can use a mirror or ask a family member to help you check where it reaches at your wrist, to the nearest half inch. Write this measure down. Finally, the last measurement is your wrist circumference to the nearest half inch. Write it down. The measurements you've just taken are your actual body measurements, not the finished garment measurements. When making a garment, we usually add a little extra room called Es, so the garment isn't too tight and feels comfortable to wear. Now let's take a look at the materials you'll need for your upcoming projects. 6. Choosing your Yarn: For the projects in this course and garment making in general, besides crochet hooks and yarn, you'll need a measuring tape, stitch markers, scissors, a yarn needle, and a calculator. When choosing yarn for your first project and the ones to follow, the great thing about the granny hexagon technique is that you can use almost any yarn. Since the stitch pattern we'll be using is quite airy, the finished fabric will generally remain soft and comfortable. There are many different fiber types, and you'll always find the fiber content listed on the yarn label, each with its own characteristics. For example, synthetic fibers like acrylic and polyester are very popular. They're affordable and easy to care for. However, since they are made from synthetic materials, they are generally a little less breathable. I made this sweater using a super bulky acrylic yarn, and I honestly felt a bit like I was wearing a garbage bag. With a slightly thinner yarn, that feeling was much less noticeable. The craning stitch does help offset this drawback, because it creates lots of open spaces. If you choose this type of fiber, stay away from cheap acrylic yarn. No matter what you make, it will always look crafty. Instead, choose a high quality or soft acrylic yarn. It should feel soft and flexible in your hands. Polyester also handles moisture better if you're choosing between the two. The biggest advantage of using synthetic fibers is that your garment will cost much less than one make with real wool. Natural fibers like cotton, linen, bamboo or blends of these fibers are often very comfortable to wear and create a soft fabric with beautiful drape. They're an excellent choice for summer garments. However, I recommend choosing a lightweight yarn, such as a category three. A worsted weight one will likely produce a thicker, stiffer garment. Also, keep in mind that with the exception of bamboo, these fibers have very little stretch, which can be more demanding on your joints, especially your arms. When it comes to animal fibers, wool is ideal for the cold season, whether it comes from sheep, soft, marino wool, or alpaca. These fibers also have the advantage of being soft and elastic. However, they do require more delicate care. And just a little tip, no matter which yarn you choose, test its softness by rubbing the skin against your wrist or your neck for a few seconds. If it feels itchy or irritating, it's probably best not to make a sweater with that yarn. It will be really sad to spend all that time crocheting only to end up not wanting to wear it. Also, keep in mind that the thinner the yarn, the longer the project will take. But the finished fabric will usually have a softer lighter drape. On the other hand, a thicker yarn will work up more quickly, but the finished garment will often be bulkier and a little more structured. There are hundreds of yarn brands and fiber blends available. For your first few projects, my advice is to choose a yarn you simply fall in love with. I recommend choosing anything from lightweight to Super Blkyarns to keep your projects fairly quick and motivating. I've designed the projects to work with any yarn weight within those categories. The choice is yours, depending on the look you want to achieve. I'll also use a variety of different yarns to introduce you to as many as possible. For each project, I'll tell you exactly which yarn I used. But since I'm teaching concepts, it's absolutely not necessary to use the same yarn. Yarn companies regularly introduce new collections and discontinue others. So some yarns may eventually disappear. Throughout this course, I won't be changing colors simply to make the construction techniques easier to follow. But if you'd like to play with them, you're more than welcome to do so. One easy way to add color without much effort is to use yarns like arn cakes or other brands with self stripping colorways. The color changes are already built into the yarn, so they will naturally appear as you crochet. If you choose this type of yarn, I recommend starting each hexagon with a new skin, so the colors stay fairly balanced between both hexagons. You can also try matching the color changes between both pieces for an even more harmonious result. If you're still having trouble seeing your stitches, I don't recommend using special yarns or ones with poor stitch definition. You can always experiment with those later once you're comfortable with the technique. I'll also tell you approximately how much yarn you'll need for each project, depending on the yarn weight. These are approximate amounts to help you estimate how many skins to buy. Simply compare them with the yardage listed on the label. For example, if you need 1,000 yards of yarn and each skin contains 600, you'll need to buy two skins to make sure you have enough when in doubt and if returns are possible, it's always better to have a little too much yarn than not enough. Some yarns are dyed in lots, and the color can vary slightly if the skins don't come from the same dye lot. Of course, if you decide to make your garment longer than the pattern calls for, be sure to keep that in mind when buying your yarn. When choosing your hook, the only tip I'll give you in this course to keep things simple is to place your yarn inside the hook's head. It should fit naturally without spilling over. If the yarn extends beyond the hood, the hook is too small. On the other hand, if the hook's head is much wider than the yarn, the hook is probably too large. If you're hesitating between two hook sizes, crochet a few double crochet to see how the fabric looks. Your stitches shouldn't be too loose or too tight. In this first module, we won't be making a Gutch swatch or blocking to keep things simple, but I've included tutorials covering both topics at the end of the module, if you'd like to learn them. I've also included a bonus video with practical tips like joining a new skin, untangling stubborn yarn, and a few suggestions to help prevent pain while crocheting for long periods. Now it's your turn to go pick out your materials, as you in the next video. 7. My First Cardigan: Materials & Technique: In addition to the basic materials needed for garment making, here's the yarn and hook I used for this cardigan. However, you can follow the exact same steps using any yarn and hook you like. I chose Karen Cloud cakes in the cinnamon swell color way, a super soft polyester yarn. Although it's very enjoyable to crochet with, the stitch definition isn't particularly clear. So if you think you'll have trouble seeing your stitches, you may want to choose a different yarn. Starting from the center, the colors gradually transition from dark to light. Since I'm using a self stripping yarn, I'll definitely need two cakes, so both granny hexagons look similar. Also, keep in mind that the color changes aren't always identical from one cake to another. Before you begin, take a moment to look at your yarn and decide where you'd like to start for the most balanced color transition. If needed, you can remove a little quantity from the beginning to avoid ending up with a project that's almost all one color. I also use that 4.5 millimeter hook with this worsted weight yarn. For the video tutorial, I'll be using a yarn with better stitch definition, a lightweight yarn from Premiere, along with a four millimeter hook. I'll be making a 2-years-old size card again, so it's easier for you to see the construction on camera. The steps will be exactly the same for you. Only the measurements will be different. I've included the finished measurements based on standard sizes in a chart below the video and in the written pattern. You can either follow those ready made measurements or use your own. You can use the measurements you took earlier and simply retake the garment length if you need to. For this pattern, I chose a cardigan that falls at hip length, but it will be very easy to adjust it to your preference. The cardigan includes 2 " of positive es at the bust, meaning that the finished garment will measure 2 " larger than your actual bust circumference. Here is a quick overview of the construction process. We'll start right away with our first granny hexagon. No matter what size you're making, it always starts the same way. Once you've completed a few rounds and feel more comfortable, I'll show you how to determine the correct size and when to stop. After making two identical granny hexagons, we will fold them and sing the sleeves. Next, we'll add rose to the back panel of each hexagon before joining them together. After adding rose to lengthen the sleeves, we will add cuffs to them. Then we'll add rose to the bottom of the cardigan and finish with an all around edging for a beautiful finish. Let's get started. 8. My First Cardigan: Start the hexagon: Let's begin our first granny hexagon. I highly recommend pulling the yarn from the center of the skin. Sometimes you'll find it easily, and other times it takes a little searching. But once you find it, it will be much easier to crochet because the skin won't bounce all over the place while you're pulling the yarn. Start your granny hexagon in two different ways, either with a slip not followed by a foundation chain of five chains or with a magic ring. I'll show you both methods. And while we're at it, I'll introduce you to rosa symbols. Always leave a long yarn tail. For the first method, change five. On a chart, a chain stitch is represented by an empty oval. Next, make a slip stitch into the first chain to form a small ring. On that chart, a slip stitch is represented by a solid black dot. Oh on a diagram of what you've just made. This basically replaces the magic ring. So from this point on, both methods follow the exact same steps. The second method, the magic ring is represented like this on a chart. When it's complete, chain three. You'll do the same thing with the first method, chain three, which counts as one double crochet. Next, make two more double crochet into the ring. A double crochet is represented by a T with a diagonal slash. After making your two double crochet, you'll have a small shell made up of three double crochet with the starting chin three counting as one. Now chin two. Then make three more double crochet into the same ring. You've now created another shell of three double crochet. We will make six shells in total. Chain two between each shell. I'll leave the chart on the screen while the video plays in fast forward, so you can watch each step appear on the chart. I'll meet you at the end of the run to make sure everything looks right. The important thing is to have six shells of three double crochet, each separated by two chains. Whether you're right handed or left handed, you'll always read the chart following the direction of the arrow. I know it's tiny on the screen, but you can see a small red number one with an arrow pointing to the left. So you'll follow the chart counterclockwise. Even if you're left handed and naturally crochet in the opposite direction, you'll still follow the direction shown on the chart. Feel free to pause the video. I'll meet you at the end of the round. Once you've confirmed that you have six shells of three double crochet, each separated by two chains, join with a slip stitch on the top of the third chain from the beginning of the round. You can insert your hook under just the top loop or under bold loops for a slightly stronger join. Either method will be perfectly secure. Now pull on the starting tail to close the center. At the end of the project, I'll show you how to weave it in so nothing comes undone. Let's move on to round two. It will start by chaining three, which counts as one double crochet. If you've taken my granny squares course, we'll be using the reversible granny technique. We will turn our work at the end of every round, working back and forth. This creates a reversible fabric and makes it easy to add rows later without disrupting the pattern. You'll notice that round two has an arrow pointing to the right clockwise. Whether you're right handed or left handed, follow the chart in that direction. After the chain three, make two double crochet into the last chain two space from round one. It's easy to find. It's the space right below where you are now. You now have your first shell of three double crochet, including the starting chain three. If you'd like, place a stitch marker on the third chain. Continue by making two chains, follow it by three double crochet into the same space. This creates the first corner of our hexagon. By making two shells in every corner, our hexagon will increase every round. The first corner of round two is now complete. Let's make the second one. Between the two corners, chain one. Then make your second corner. The double crochet, chain two, three double crochet into the same space. You now have two completed corners. Chain one before making your third corner, which is once again three double crochet, chain two, and three double crochet. Still working into the same chain two corner space from the previous round. And repeat this all the way around. Chain one before completing the next corner. I'll let you continue. You can pause the video at each step. After making your final chain one, join with a slip stitch into the third chain from the beginning. Make sure you have six corners, each made up of two shells of three double crochet on your hexagon. If you need help identifying the six corners, you can place a stitch marker in each one in each small chain to space between two shells. Skip the space between two corners, which forms the side of the hexagon and place your marker in the next corner right here. Repeat this for the remaining four corners. Let's continue with round three, where you will really start to see the hexagon take shape. Let's take a look together at the chart for round three because the following rounds will look very similar. The concept will always remain the same. We will increase in each of the six corners by making two shells of three double crochet separated by two chains, and we will make single shells separated by one chain along the sides. With every additional round, one more shell will be added to each side of the hexagon. Once you understand how the granny hexagon works, you won't need to follow the instructions for every round. It will become almost automatic. You'll be able to crochet while watching a show without needing too much concentration. I still work through round three with you. The chart is getting a little small for the screen, so I've placed it below the video for easy reference. Chain three as usual. Turn your work and follow the chart counter clockwise. Turning at the end of every round keeps the instructions the same each time. You won't need to overthink it. You'll always chain three and work the first shell into the space directly below. Make two double crochet since the chain three counts as one. You're currently working along one side of the hexagon. So chain one before working your increase into the next corner. Feel free to reposition your stitch marker in the corner if you still need it. Then make one shell of three double crochet in the next space along the side, separated by one chain. Continue this way all around, increasing in each corner and making single shells along the sides. There will always be one chain between the shells along the sides and two chains between the two shells in each corner. I'll let you continue. You can pause the video, I'll meet you at the end. After completing your final shell in chain one, join with a slip stitch into the top of the starting chain three. After every round, take a moment to make sure you completed all the six increases one in each corner and that the sides contain only single shells. We can all make a small careless mistake, and it's frustrating to notice it much later. So far, it should look like this. At this point, you should see one single shell between each corner of the agon. If you fold it in half, you'll begin to see the shape of your future card again. Before I explain the calculations, let's work through Round four together. Here is a chart for round four. The concept remains the same. We will increase in each corner of the hexagon. But this time, you'll have two shells along each side. We will work through a small section together, and then I'll let you continue on your own. Start as usual by chaining three, turn your work, and do two single crochet into the first stage. Chain one, then make your first corner with two shells separated by two chains. Take a moment to notice what a corner of the hexagon looks like. This will help you identify them in the following rounds and avoid mistakes. You can carry C two shelves in the same space. As you add more rounds, you'll see defined points forming in those areas. Next, chain one and make only one shell in each space along the side. In these two spaces here, they will always be separated by one chain. Continue by making your increases in each corner and single shells along every side. I'll leave the chart on the screen. Follow it clockwise. I'll meet you at the end to make sure everything looks right. Finish with a zip stitch into the top of the starting chin three. Make sure you have six corners, six increases, and two single shells along each side. Now that you're more comfortable with the technique, continue to the next video where I'll show you how to determine the number of rounds needed based on your measurements. 9. My First Cardigan: Calculate the measurement of the hexagon: Now that we understand how to build our hexagon, let's see how large we need to make it. For this, we need one key measurement, half of one side of the hexagon, which is this section here when we fold it in half. This measurement will tell us when to stop adding rounds. I'll use a larger hexagon to show you how to fold it. Simply fold it in half by matching opposite corners, starting from any corner, count one, two, and then fold the third corner over the first one. You should end up with an L shape. Folding your hexagon gives you this kind of shape, simply rotate the top panel slightly and you'll get the correct shape. I've provided a chart with precalculated measurements for standard sizes and for this pattern. You could simply continue working your hexagon until it reaches your chosen size. You can run the result since we can't change the width of a round. But since I always want you to understand what you're doing, I'll show you the simple formula behind it. To skip this step, join me at 2 minutes and 50 seconds. We'll start with the finished garment measurement. Take the bust circumference the roll down, and add the 2 " of E I chose for this pattern. Next, we will subtract the parts not made from the hexagons, including the front edging, which will count twice because there is one on each side. For adult sizes, I chose an inch and a half wide edging. After doubling that measurement, we will subtract 3 " and then subtract the back panel added later, which will measure 3-7 " depending on the size. Subtracting both sections from the total gives us the combined circumference of both hexagons. We will divide that total by four to find the measurement of half of one hexagon side. This measurement tells us when to stop adding rounds. In this example, I calculated a medium size, so the half side of our hexagon should measure approximately 8.25 ". Here on the screen, half of one side of my hexagon measures 4.75 ". So I'll continue crocheting additional rounds until it measures about 8.25 ". I'll let you do your calculation using the formula and the information provided. You can pause the video. To estimate how many rounds you still need to make, you can measure one small shell, which represents one round. And one quick note, measure as close as possible to the center, since the stitches tend to stretch more near the outer edge. It doesn't need to be extremely precise. Being off by a quarter inch is perfectly fine, since the fabric is flexible and will adjust to the body. Continue crushing your hexagon until it reaches the correct measurement. I'll leave the instructions on the screen, and we will meet after your final round to create a neat finish. Once your hexagon is complete and you've made the slip stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a long tail and pull it through the loop too fast enough. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and insert it into the next stitch. The double crusher right after the starting chain three, the middle one. Go under both loops. Then go back and insert your needle under the black loop only of the previous chain stitch, which separates the two shells. Pull gently to adjust it. This will make the finish look like a regular stitch, making things easier when we need to in the panels together. Don't weave in the ends yet in case we need to correct a mistake later. And if you're curious to see how it fits, you can already try it on by using stitch markers to secure the upper section that forms the sleeve. This panel will form the base of your card again. We will add rows to the back, the sleeve, and the bottom. Before starting your second hexagon, count how many rounds you made to reach the correct size, counting from the center to one corner and write it down. Once both of your hexagons are complete, join me in the next video for the following step. O 10. My First Cardigan: Sew the top of the sleeves : We're now ready to sew the top of the sleeves. Fold both ea guns this way with the right side of the final round facing you. A quick way to identify it is by looking for the small braid formed by the stitches. On the other side, you can't see it at all. That's the wrong side of the final round. Here is a closer look. This is the wrong side, and this is the right side. You can clearly see the small braid formed by the double crochet. Fold your hexagon with the wrong sides together, since this will make it easier to sin the stitches together. You can secure the upper section with stitch markers, since we'll sin this section to close the sleeve. Cut a piece of yarn about three times the length of the sleeve and thread it onto your yarn needle. Let's begin sewing. If you've taken my granny square scores, you know there are several ways to sein pieces together. We'll use the reversible sin. It's very simple, and you don't need to worry about whether you're working on the right or wrong side because it looks the same on both sides. Position the sleeve this way and insert your needle into one corner from the inside to the outside. Then insert it into the opposite corner again from the inside out. To secure the beginning of the scene, repeat this once more. Insert your needle from the inside out through the same spot where you begin, and then insert it into the opposite corner from the inside out. Continue using the same method for all the following stitches. Insert the needle from the inside out through the next stitch of the first side. And then insert it through the next stitch on the opposite side from the inside out. Always pass your needle under the stitch to form the seam. Continue this way through every following stitch. Each time you sew through a stitch on one side, sew through the matching stitch on the opposite side, so they stay aligned. When you reach a chain stitch, you can either go under both loops or pass your needle through the opening. When you reach the chain space, take a moment to make sure the stitches are properly aligned and that you haven't skipped one. Then keep going. Here's a small trick to help you focus. Count the double crochet in each shell as you sew through them. What I do is tell myself first ditch on this side, first stitch on the other side, second, second, third, third, chain chain. This helps me avoid mistakes and skip stitches. I was positioned in front of you for filming, but turning the sleeve onto its side like this will be much easier and faster. Be careful not to sew through the same stitch twice. That's why you should check frequently that you're still in the right place. It's fairly easy because you're working with shells, and you also have the chain spaces to match up along the way. You'll quickly notice if you've made a mistake. Gently pull the yarn to tighten the sein, but not too much or the fabric may poker. The sein should still be secure with no gaps between the panels. You can see that each stitch is properly aligned with the other side. Continue in the same way to the end of the sleeve. I'll meet you there to show you how to finish the sein. At the end, insert your needle through both corner spaces in the same way through the chain two spaces. And if you'd like, you can pass through them a second time, as we did at the beginning to secure the yarn and strengthen the scene. And that's it. You can leave it like this and repeat the process on your second hexagon. 11. My First Cardigan: Add the back section: We now ready to add rows to each hexagon, along the back. This will create space for the neck. Place both hexagons this way. We'll add rows here along each side of the back. You can use stitch markers to identify which side to crochet. Place them in both corners along the back. The upper corner will be right before the seam we made. But I'll show you a closer view in a moment. You should already know how many inches to add to the back. It will be 3-7 " depending on your size. Divide this measurement by two because we'll split it between both panels. To determine how many rows to make, you already have your swatch handy. Use your measuring tape to see how many rows fit within two or 3 ". Make sure you're measuring the rows in the correct direction. Since the grainy stitches are offset with a space in every row, follow them like steps to count them correctly. I'll begin at the base of this grany stitch and count this way. This is the second, third, and fourth row. And the fifth falls between the two. You can choose whether to count it or not. Honestly, it won't make a significant difference. Write this information down because it's important to have the same number of rows on both sides, keeping the seam centered and allowing the stitches to line up properly. Since we won't be working in rounds as we did for the hexagons, I'll show you how to work the grind stitch in rows. You'll begin on one side. To maintain the patterns alternating right side and wrong side rows, make sure the wrong side of the final round is facing you. On the screen, we're currently seeing the right side of the final round. With the small braid formed by the stitches clearly visible. Here is the wrong side, where the double crochet are less defined. This is the side where you'll begin crocheting the first row of the back panel. Since we crochet from left to right, you'll begin at either the bottom or top of the panel depending on which hexagon you're holding. For this hexagon on the screen, I'll begin at the top of the back. The technique is the same whether you begin here or at the bottom. Insert your hook into the chain to space in the corner of the hexagon right before the sleeve seam. Join your yarn and chain four. Three chains count as one double crochet, and the final chain creates the space normally found between each crani shell. Then make one shell of three double crochet in the next space. You can place your stitch marker in the starting chain four space. This will make it much easier to know where to finish the next row. Next, chain one and continue across, making one shell of three double crochet in each space followed by one chain. Basically, it's like working on one side of the hexagon. Since you're already comfortable with this, I'll let you continue. I'll meet you just before the end of the first row right here. If your panel required you to begin in the bottom corner, you would follow the exact same steps. You would chain four in the bottom corner like this, then continue making shells of three double crochet toward the top. Ending here in the chain two corner space of the hexagon, right before the sleeve sein. Either way, we'll meet at one of these corners. When you reach the final step in one of the corners, make only one double crochet. This is how we finish the first row of granny stitch. For the second row, chain three, turn your work and make two double crochet and the next phase, the opening directly below. This creates the first shell of the root. You can place another marker on top of the third chain. Chain one, and continue making shells of three double crochet with one chain between each shell. I'll make you just before the marker at the end. Since we began this row with a shell of three double crochet, we will also finish with one. Make three double crochet in the starting change for space. It should look like this. One shell at each end. Repeat rows one and two until you reach the desired width. I've included the chart below the video for easy reference. I'll work through row three with you. But first, remember to divide the total back measurement by two. If you need to add 4 ", you'll add 2 " to each panel. However, if you're using a very thick yarn and one row already measures about 1 ", it may not be possible to get exactly 2.5 " on each side when you need a total of 5 ", since we can't add just the width of a row. In that case, it's better to round up rather than down. This will simply provide a little more ease around the neck. Now let's work through row three together. Begin by chaining four. Then make your first shell of three double crochet in the next phase. Place a marker in the chain four space. Chain one, then make shells of three double crochet followed by one chain in each space. And finish the row by making one double crochet in the third chain of the first shell from the previous row. I'll let you continue alternating these two rows until you reach the desired measurement. Once you've finished, measure the panel to make sure it equals half of the total back measurement. Granny stitches can sometimes be a little looser when worked in rows. You can then cut the yarn, leaving a long tail on one of the two panels to use for seaming. This time, fasten it more securely by pulling the tail through the loop. Repeat the same steps on the second panel, and we will need to sing them together. I've displayed the charts at ten second intervals for beginning at either the top or bottom of the cardigan. Pause the video on the chart you need. The next step is to sing these two sections together, much like we did with the sleeves. It'll be easier with the right side of the stitches facing you. Use the same singing technique as in the previous video, working from the inside out through each pair of matching stitches. You can pause the video, I'll meet you at the end. Once the scam is complete, your card again should already be taking shape. The added section should measure approximately the desired width. In the next video, we will crochet the remaining sleeve length. 12. My First Cardigan: Add rounds to sleeves : To determine how many rounds to add to the sleeves, we'll do some calculations. But here's a chart with precalculated measurements based on standard sizing. If the chart or your calculations show that you don't need any additional round, you can still watch me work the first one with you to see where to place your stitches. Then you can skip directly to the decrease round in the next video. Write down your measurement and join me at 2 minutes and 45 seconds if you don't want to see the formula behind the calculation. Otherwise, use the measurement you took from the back of your neck to your wrist. Next, substract the cuff, 2 " for adults and 1.5 " for kids. We will also subtract round round because we'll make a decrease round just before the cuff part. Measure the length of one granny stitch or one round to the nearest half inch. Substract this measurement from the toll as well. Write down your result. Starting from the center scene, you will add rounds until you reach that measurement using your own calculation, not the example shown on the screen. You can also determine the number of rounds right away by measuring what you already have to find how many inches you still need to add. If you remember how many rounds fit within two or 3 ", when we made the back panel, you can use that information to set up a proportion. For example, if four rounds measured 2 " to determine how many rounds you need to reach 7 ", simply multiply the numbers diagonally and divide by the remaining number. In this example, I would theoretically need to make 14 rounds to reach my measurement. You can always double check with your measuring tape. Choose whichever method you prefer. I'll leave the formula on the screen so you can do your own calculation. One quick note for sizes two large to five large, we will need two decrease rounds. So remember to include that in your calculation. If your result is close to zero or negative, you can still watch the first round and then join me in the next video. At worst, the sleeve will simply be a little longer than planned. In the upcoming projects, I'll explain in greater detail how to control this technique to achieve specific measurements for different parts of the body. I will work the first sleeve round with you. To begin, join your yarn anywhere under the arm between two shells. To maintain the pattern, make sure the wrong side of the final round is facing you. You may be either inside or outside the sleeve. Chain three. Then make two double crochet in the same space to form the first shell. If you'd like, you can place a stitch marker in the third chain from the beginning. Then chain one and continue making shells separated by one chain in each following space. There's one special step when you reach the sleeve seam at the top. I'll meet you there. And if you're worried about missing it, you can place a stitch marker on this seam. When you reach the sleeve seam, you'll see a hexagon corner on each side of it. It may be tempting to go into them, but that would widen the sleeve. We don't want that. Skip those spaces and make a shelf directly in the center of the seam, where you placed your marker. U Skip the other hexagon corner, then make your next shell in the following space. Continue working the granny stitch all around. It should look like this at the sleeve sea. I'll let you continue. I'll meet you at the end of the round. At the end, join with a slip stitch into the top of the starting chin three. For the next round, change three, then decide whether to turn forward or backward. If you always turn in the same direction, the cardigan will twist around itself, and visually, it makes no difference which way you turn. It's simply a small trick to make your work more comfortable. I'll let you continue. Follow the usual granny stitch instructions until you reach the measurement you calculated. I'll leave the chart on the screen if you need it. For the following rounds, simply make shells in every space without worrying about the sleeve seam. Once you've completed all your rounds, check the measurement by starting at the center back seam and measuring to the end of the sleeve. Since gravity will affect the garment when you're wearing it, gently stretch the sleeve and let it fall naturally. This will give you a more accurate measurement. It really doesn't matter if it's slightly longer or shorter. The garment has plenty of stretch, so we have lots of flexibility. Join me in the next video to begin narrowing the sleeve and adding the cuff. 13. My First Cardigan: Sleeve decrease: We will make a decrease round to narrow the sleeve at the wrist. First, we need to determine how many stitches we'll need to match our wrist circumference. Place your measuring tape across the sleeve this way and count how many stitches fit within 4 ". Keeping in mind that one shell plus the chain space next to it equals four stitches. In this example, I have about 18 to 19 stitches and 4 ". It really doesn't matter if you're off by one or two stitches. Write that number down and find the risk measurement you took earlier or use the measurement chart for your size. For example, if your risk circumference is 6.5 ", we need to determine how many stitches that represents. In my example, I know that 4 " equals 18 stitches. So once again, I'll use a proportion to determine how many stitches are needed for 6.5 ". Multiply the numbers diagonally, then divide by the remaining number. In this example, that gives us 29 stitches. Write down your own total. We will come back to it later. Before calculating exactly how many stitches to decrease, we will make one general decrease round for all sizes. This simply narrows the sleeve a little before the cuff. I'll show you how to decrease with that granny stitch. We will decrease every other shell. Place your hook back into the loop and begin by chaining three. Turn your work and remember to always work with the wrong side of the previous round facing you like this. Make two double crochet in the space directly below. Chain one, and then we'll combine two granny shells into one by working into the next two spaces. I'll show you how. Make one double crochet in the next space. Then make a double crochet decrease across the same space and the following one. Yan over, insert your hook into the space, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two loops, and stop there. Yan over, insert your hook into the next space. Yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two loops, then yarn over and pull through all three loops. It's like you worked the middle double crochet of a shell across two spaces at once. Then make the final double crochet of the shell in that same space. It won't look quite as neat as a regular shell, but it creates a slow decrease at the end of your sleeve. After chaining one as usual, make a regular shell of three double crochet in the next space. After chaining one, make another granny stitch decrease across the next two spaces. Continue alternating between one regular shell and one granny decrease all around the sleeve. At the end, if there aren't enough spaces left for one final decrease, simply make a regular granny shell. Join with a slip stitch into the top of the starting chain three. We've now reduced the sleeve circumference slightly. For sizes two large to five large, repeat that same round, decreasing every other shell. This will narrow it even more. Before starting the cuff, I like to separate it with a round of single crush it. This makes the cuff easier to build and gives us a chance to make adjustments if needed. In this case, we will need to make some decreases to reach our wrist circumference. This is the last little calculation of the project. Count how many stitches you currently have. Since one shell plus the chain that separates them equals four stitches. Simply count how many shells you have in your final round. Be careful not to count that decreases twice. You could also count each small braid you see in your final round. Write down your stitch count by multiplying the number of shells by four. For example, 12 shells in my final round gives me 48 stitches. Now, take the number of stitches needed to go around your wrist, which we calculated earlier. In my example, I needed 29 stitches. To find how many stitches to decrease, subtract that number from your current total. So 48 -29 equals 19 stitches to decrease in the next single crush round. To determine how often to make the decreases, so they are eagerly distributed, divide your current total number of stitches by the number you need to decrease. In my example, 48/19 gives me about 2.5. We will round that to the nearest whole number 4.4 or less round down and 4.5 or more round up. Here, I round up to three. That means that in every group of three stitches, we will make one decrease. Since one decrease uses two stitches, that leaves one regular stitch between each decrease. It can be a little hard to visualize, so you can use the simple formula instead. Substract two from your total, and that gives you the number of regular stitches to make between each decrease. If your total is two, two minus two equals zero. That means there will be no regular stitches, only decreases all the way around. Since I rounded 2.5 up to three, I'll have a few extra stitches at the end, but that's perfectly fine. It will simply give a little more ease at the wrist. You're also free to add or remove a few decreases here and there to reach the exact toll. Just make sure to write everything down so you can repeat the same thing on the other sleeve. So to keep things simple, you can confidently use this formula in all your future garment projects. And one last note for very large sizes, if your result is below zero, even decreasing all the way around will still leave too many stitches. In that case, you can add another granny decrease round, as I suggested for the larger sizes earlier, decreasing every other shell. This will help narrow the sleeve a little more before the single crusher round. I'll let you do your calculation, and I'll meet you in the next video for the following step. 14. My First Cardigan: The sleeve cuff: We word the single crochet round just before the cuff on the right side of the cardigan. Use the seams you've made to identify the right side. They look better when you see the right side of the stitches, especially along the back. You can place a stitch marker inside the neckline to mark the right side. Place your hook back into the loop. No matter where you ended or which side is facing you, work the single crochet round on the right side of the card again. Here on the screen, I was ready to work a right side round. But in your case, you may not need to turn and can simply continue in the same direction. After chaining one, follow the formula we calculated earlier to space your decreases evenly around the round. To know where to insert your hook for the single crochet and decreases, each chain between the shells counts as one stitch, and each double crochet also counts as one stitch. I like to begin with one regular single crochet. I'll make it in the chain space. Then place a marker in that first stitch. Then I'll decrease over the next two stitches. In my case, I'll continue with one single crochet, one decrease, all the way around. Your sequence may be different. You can use the small braids along the top to identify which stitch to work into. For the chain stitches, it may be harder to work into the stitch itself, so use the chain space instead. I'll let you continue. I'll meet you at the end of the round. Once again, if you don't have enough stitches at the end to complete the exact decrease sequence, don't worry about it. Join the round with a slip stitch into the first single crochet, where your marker is for a kale join. Check that your hand fits comfortably through the opening and count how many stitches you have so you can repeat the exact same thing on the other sleeve. Now we will crochet the cuff. For the cuff, always work in the same direction on the right side of the card again. We'll work in join rounds. So chain two, then make one double crochet in the same stitch where you made your slip stitch. Continue by making one double crochet in each remaining stitch. You can pause the video. Continue making double crochet all around the sleeve. At the end, make a slip stitch into the space between the chain two and the first double crochet. For round two, we will alternate front post and back post double crochet. So chain two to begin. Then work a front post double crochet around the next stitch. Then work a back post double crochet, around the next one. Continue alternating front pose, double crochet, back pose, double crochet around all the remaining stitches. This creates a ribbed effect on the cuff. You can pause the video, I'll meet you at the end. At the end, your final stitch will be worked around the stitch just before the chain to. Finish with a slip stitch into the chain to space. Repeat this round until the cuff reaches the desired length, 2 " for adult sizes and 1.5 " for children's sizes. Always work your front pose double crochet around the front pose double crochet from the previous round and do the same for the back post stitches. The front post stitches are easy to identify because they form a small ridge on the front. Feel free to use your fingers to separate the stitches so you can clearly see where to insert your hook. You can pause the video. Continue working rounds until you reach the required length. Before cutting the yarn, to make sure the measurements feel right. If you need to make any small adjustments, it won't take long to change them. If everything looks good, cut the yarn and pull the tail through the loop. For a neat finish, we'll do the same thing we did with the granny hexagons. Using your yarn needle, insert it into the next stitch under both loops of the first postage. Then go back through the back loop only of the last postage you made. No. This creates a neat finish. You can weave in the end now if you'd like, or wait until the very end. One last important step, we need to repeat the exact same thing on the other sleeve. So count how many rounds you added. You can find your starting tail or use the seam at the top of the sleeve as a guide. We worked our first round at the seam right here with the shell directly in the middle of the shoulder sea. You can use that as your reference point. Count how many rounds you worked from that point. I Remember that your final granny stitch round is your decrease one. Then count how many rounds you made for the cuff. It's harder to see with this stitch, so stretch the stitches apart to clearly see how many rounds you've made. The first regular double crochet round is easy to see, followed by the post stitches wrapped around the previous ones. Here on screen, I have five rounds, including the first double crochet one. Write everything down and repeat it on the other sleeve. If needed, you can rewatch the tutorial. 15. My First Cardigan: Add rows at the bottom: Now we'll add rose to the bottom of the card again to reach the desired length. Find that measurement. You can also use the chart I provided for your size. If you don't want to do the calculation, here are the measurements already calculated for each size and the pattern. If your result is zero, you can still add one row to make the construction of the edging easier. The cardigan will simply be a little longer. So join me at 1 minute and 20 seconds. Otherwise, take the total garment length you roll down and subtract the edging, which will be 1.5 " for adults and 1 " for kids. Then measure from the top of the center back down to see how many inches you still need. Once again, you can calculate the number of rows using your swatch and a proportion. Or you can simply add rows until you reach the desired length without the edging. Do your calculation, and again, if the result is negative, your cardigan will simply be a little longer than planned. You can make just one row before moving on to the edging. We'll use the exact same technique as we did for the back panel. So we'll work in rows. I'll show you where to place your granny shells, especially along the back and around the scene. You can place stitch markers to identify the spaces where we won't make a shell. Here you can see the rows of the back panel. You follow the increases of the hexagon all the way down, you can place a marker here because we won't make a shell in this space. This way, you won't have to think about it when you get there. When you see the marker, skip to the next space. At the seam, if you finished with a row that ended with one double crochet, it will look like this. You will make a shell in the double crochet space, but not in the seam itself. You can place a stitch marker on the seam if you think you might accidentally make a shell there. Place your final marker on the other hexagon corner right here. Another way to identify it is to look at your shells. You'll suddenly see a horizontal double crochet joining into them. The space where it is marks the hexagon corner, and that's where you won't make a shell. If your back panel ended with a row of shells, the only difference is that you'll make one shell at the scene. Otherwise, the gap between the shells on each side will be too large. I've included diagrams below the video showing the difference between both situations. Even though it's the same technique we used earlier for the back panel, I'll work rows one and two with you. Insert your hook with the wrong side of the funnel row facing you to maintain the pattern. Join your yarn and chain four. Then make a shell in the next space. Followed by one chain and continue in each following space. I'll meet you at the back panel where you placed your markers. When you reach the first hexagon corner, skip that space. Don't make a shell there. Instead, make it in the next space which contains one double crochet or the chain three. Then continue through all the following spaces of the back panel. Since I'm making a small size, I've already reached the sea. I'll make a shell in a double crushe space. Then I go directly to the next double crushe space. So I skip the seam and make a shell in the next space. Continue the same way on the other side. And remember to skip the chain to space of the next hexagon corner. These small adjustments only apply to the first row. For the following rows, make shells in every space. Then continue all the way across as you normally would. If your back panel ended with a shell at the edge, you would make one shell at the sea. Then continue as I showed you earlier. That's the only difference. Continue working. Your granny touches to the other side of the card again. I'll meet you at the end. At the end of the row in the hexagon corner, make one double crochet. For the next row, chain three, turn your work and make two double crochet in the space directly below. Chain one, then continue making shells of three double crochet in each following space, finishing with a shell in the final space. Continue until you reach the required length. I'll leave the chart on screen if you need it. Before cutting the yarn, try it on to see if you like the length. Keeping in mind we'll add an edging. If everything looks good, cut the yarn and fast enough. You can also weave in the ends at the top, especially around the sleeve and back seas, since they may feel a little loose, secure them well, so we have a solid base before adding the edging. Use whichever technique you prefer as long as you feel some tension in the strength, you're waving through. You can go back and forth in three directions. Join me in the next video for the final step, adding the edging. 16. My First Cardigan: The outer edging: We're now at the final step, adding the edging around the inside and bottom of the card again. The steps will be similar to the sleeve cuffs. We'll begin with a round of single crochet all around to create a clean transition before the edging and make it easier to see where to place our stitches afterward. Start at the very top of the card again at the center neck. With the right side facing you, join your yarn at the center back seam and chain one. Make one single crochet in the same place. On a chart, a single crochet is represented by a small cross or an X. Next, we'll work single crochet all around. However, in some areas, there won't be a regular stitch with two loops to work in two as usual. For example, here, we're working along the side of the stitches. In these areas, follow the simple rule. The side of one double crochet equals the length of two single crochet. So make two single crochet along the side of each double crochet. And when there's a single double crochet along the edge like this, you can simply enter in the space below. Then make two single crochet along the side of the next double crochet using the strands you can see along the edge and continue this way along the entire back section you added earlier. When you reach the first hexagon corner before the sleeve seam, make just one single crochet, that corner space. Then one single crochet in the seam. And one single crochet in the next hexagon corner. If you accidentally make two stitches in one spot, don't worry at all. It won't be noticeable. Then continue as usual across the regular stitches working under both loops. Make one single crochet in each table crochet. And one in each chain space. Continue this way along the entire side panel. I'll meet you at the bottom corner of the card again. Once you reach the bottom at the hexagon corner, just before the extra rows we added to the bottom, make one single crochet in the hexagon corner space. Then continue as before along the sides of the double crochet, making two single crochet along each one. Next, your corner will either have a chain four space or a shell of three double crochet. I'll show you what to do in both situations. If it looks like this with a chain for space, make two single crochet inside the space. Like if it was the side of a double crochet. Then still in the same space, make one single crochet. Chain two, and one single crochet. This will create a nice square corner. Then continue in each following stitch across the bottom of the panel. If your final row begins and ends with a shell of three double crochet, here's how to make the corner with single crochet. Beginning with one along the side. Then after the second one, chain two and make another single crochet in the same place to form the corner. Then continue making single crochet in the following stitches. I'll let you continue. I'll meet you at the next corner. At the second bottom corner, if it ends with just one double crochet, make one single crochet. Chain two, one single crochet in the chain space. Then make two single crochet along the side of the double crochet. Next, make two single crochet along the sides of each double crochet from the rows you added to the length of the card again. Then make one single crochet in the hexagon corner here and continue across all the following stitches of the side panel. If your corner is instead made of three double crochet, here's how to make the corner. Work it into the third and final double crochet. Make one single crochet, chain two, and one single crochet all in that same double crochet. Then make one single crochet along the side of the stitch. Continue as usual, making two single crochet along the side of each following row. You can pause the video. I'll make two at the sleeve seem at the top. When you reach the sleeve seam, make one single crochet in the hexagon corner space, one single crochet in the seam, and one single crochet in the next hexagon corner. Then continue making two single crochet along the side of each double crochet in the following rows. Join with a slip stitch into your first single crochet. You're now ready to crochet the edging. Just like with the sleeves, we'll work one round of double crochet in every stitch. The only difference from the sleeve cuffs is that we will turn after every round. If we work continuously in joined runs, the edging will curl in ward. It won't give us a nice finish. So change two, then turn your work. Make one double crochet in each following stitch, starting here. Continue making one double crochet in each stitch. I'll need to at the first bottom corner of the card again. When you reach the bottom corner, remember we made one single crochet, chain two, and one single crochet there. Into that chain two space, make two double crochet. Chain one and two double crochet. To help with the following rounds, you can place a stitch marker in the chain you just made. This will mark where we'll make our increases in the following rounds. Continue making one double crochet in each following stitch until the next corner. Repeat the same thing as the first corner. In the chain two space, make two double crochet, Chain one, two double crochet. Continue making one double crochet in each following stitch to the end. At the end, join with a slip stitch in the starting chain two space between the first double crochet and the chain two. If you'd like to make a double crochet where the chain two is attached, you can. It won't make any difference. Starting with round two, we will begin working front and back post double crochet. First, chain two, then turn your work and make a front post double crochet around the next stitch. Then make a back post, double crochet around the next stitch. Continue alternating front post and back post double crochet around the following stitches. I'll make to at the first corner at the bottom of the card again. Oh. When you reach the corner, continue alternating front and back post double crochet until you reach the chain one space. It's easier to see between two double crochet than between the single crochet. Try to remember which post stitch you make last before the corner because we will mirror it on the other side. Repeat that sample stitch immediately after making the corner increase. In the chain one space, do the same thing as in the previous run. To double crochet, chain one, two double crochet. Here on the screen, my last post stitch was a front post. So I'll make a front post double crochet around the next stitch. Continue alternating back and front post double crochet. I'll meet you at the next corner. Again, remember which postage you made last before the chain one space. Then make two double crochet, Chain one, two double crochet in that space. Repeat the last post stitch you made around the next stitch. Temptinue at turnting back in front pose double crochet to the end of the round. At the end, join with a slip stitch into the starting chain two space. Repeat this round until you reach the desired edging width. Chain two, then turn your work. It's important to turn after every round. Then continue working front post double crochet around the front post stitches that you see now on the side. Do the same with the back post stitches, working them around the back post one to create the ribbed edging. Work the bottom corners exactly as you did in the previous round. Make two double crochet, chain one and two double crochet in each corner. I'll let you continue and leave these instructions on the screen. Work as many rounds as needed to reach a 1.5 inch edging for adults and 1 " for kids. I'll meet you for the final step. And if these symbols look like something else than post stitches, I'm really sorry, but that's how they're drawn on a chart. And just in case you need it, I'll show you how to work one corner of the next round. My last postage was a back post, so that's what I'll work around the next ditch. Then continue alternating your postages. The edging should look like this with nice square corners. Once your edging is complete, we will work one final round of slip stitches all around. Make sure the right side of that cardigan is facing you, regardless of which side you ended on. Chain one. Then slip stitch into each following stitch. Don't make them too tight, or they will pull the edging in. This creates a nice finished edge. When you reach a corner, simply make one swipstitch inside the chain one space. Then continue. At the end, slip stitch into the first slip stitch you made. Cut the yarn and fast enough by pulling through the loop. Weave it in the same way as we did for the sleeve cuffs. Using your yarn needle, insert it into the next stitch. Then go back through the back loop only of the previous one. You can now weave in all the ends. I'll show you in fast forward a few different ways to weave them in specific areas. If you don't have a label, you can use the two yarn tails at the top of the neck line to make a small loop and leave it there to identify the inside of your card again. The most important place to weave in your yarn securely is at the center of each hexagon, because if that tail comes loose, it can unravel. So we it around the first round several times to secure it well. And one small suggestion, wait until after washing before trimming your wovenin ends completely, so they can settle into place and are less likely to poke out again. If you only have grainy stitches to weave the tail into, try to do it discreetly, working through strands of the double crochet and going back and forth in three directions to secure the yarn. Congratulations. You finished your first garment, your first card again. I hope you're really proud of yourself and that you will receive tons of compliments. You'll find the care instructions in a video at the end of the projects. You don't need to block your card again, but if you'd like to do it, you'll also find a blocking tutorial at the end of the course. If you'd like, join me for the second project of this class where you'll learn how to make adjustments with this technique while making a Breezy Sweater. Oh 17. The Breezy Sweater: Materials & Technique: To crush out the briezy sweater, besides the basic supplies, here's the yarn and hook I used. Once again, you can follow the same steps with any yarn and hook of your choice. I chose linen from Sandness Garn, a blend of cotton, viscos and linen and mastic colour. It's a high quality yarn and a little more expensive. So I've included a more affordable alternative in the pattern. I also made the same sweater with corn skinny cakes teachment and acrylic yarn that changes color as you crochet. I used a four millimeter hook for both. I've included the approximate quantities for each size and each yarn weight below the video and in the pattern. For the video tutorial, I once again use premiere yarn and make a size two toddler sweater, so you can clearly see the steps. For a more feminine fit, the sweater will be fitted at the waist and slightly shorter than the cardigan. It will fall just below the waist. Perfect for wearing with high waisted pens. If you'd like to make a man's sweater, you can simply keep the full width and use the measurements from the previous project. You can either follow the precalculated measurements or use your own. You will need your bust circumference, sweater length, the measurement from the center back of your neck to your wrist, your wrist or forearm circumference, if there is a big difference, since the sweater will have three quarter sleeves, but the cuff will be very stretchy. We'll also add one measurement, your waist circumference, or the area where you'd like the sweater to end. The bottom edging will be very stretchy, so don't worry if you're between two measurements. Write everything down, and let's go over the construction steps. Just like in the previous project, we'll start right away with our first hexagon and use it to determine when to stop. This time, instead of relying only on the width, we'll stop at whichever measurement we reach first, the one based on the bust or the one based on the length. Since we're making a shorter sweater, the length will be the main reference point for most sizes. After making two identical hexagons, we'll fold them and sing the tops of the sleeves. We'll add rolls to the front and back to add any width needed to reach the bust circumference. Then we'll add the back section. We'll sing the panels at the back and front, then add rounds to the sleeves if needed, and finish them with cuffs. Next, we'll narrow the bottom of the sweater with decreases before adding the edging. Finally, we'll add a neat finish around the V-neck. Let's get started. But 18. The Breezy Sweater: The hexagon: Start by making your hexagon and refer back if needed to this video from the first project. Work about four rounds. Then join me to determine how large to make your hexagon. You can pause the video. If you don't want to worry about the math, here's a precalculated chart based on standard measurements. Simply make two identical hexagons, then join me in the next video. Otherwise, here's the concept behind the calculation. If we only used the bust circumference as in the first project, the sweater could end up too long. This time, we'll do two calculations and compare the results using whichever measurement we reach first. We'll then either add rows to the front and back to reach the missing bust width or add rows to the bottom to reach the desired length. To find the panel width based on the bust circumference, we will use almost the same formula as in the first project. Take your bust circumference and add 2 " of these. Then substract anything that won't be part of the hexagons. This time, there is no edging to subtract because we'll also close the front of the sweater. So we will only substract the back section, which will be 5-6 " depending on the size. For a sweater, the back section will be wider so your head can fit through easily. Divide the total by four to get half the width of one panel, which is the measurement you should end up with. I'll leave the calculation on the screen, write down your own measurement. Now let's move on to the second calculation to find the half side of the hexagon based on the desired length. Substract the edging from the total sweater length, 2 " for adults and 1.5 " for kids. We will also subtract one granny stitch round. That will add to the bottom of the sweater just before the edging. This will depend on your yarn, hook, and tension. Using the small swatch you already have, measure one round or one granny stitch to estimate how much to subtract from the sweater length. Here I'm between half an inch and three quarters of an inch. Measuring two rounds and dividing by two will give me a more accurate result. In this example, two rounds measure 1 ". So I'll substrate half an inch from my calculation. This gives you the total length of one side of the hexagon. Since we want to compare this result with the first one, divide the total by two to get the half side measurement. I'll let you do your calculation. I'll meet you again in a few seconds. Next, compare the two results and use a smaller one to determine when to stop adding rounds. Comparing my two results, I'll stop at 7.75 ". That way, my sweater will be the correct length. The larger the size, the more noticeable the difference will be. If the two results are very close, don't overthink it. Choose the one that works best with your yarn. Since we're working in rounds and can't make half a round, the sweater will simply be slightly wider or longer. And one quick note for larger sizes. Since twice, this measurement will also correspond to your arm circumference. Make sure your arm fits comfortably. If not, simply add more rounds until it feels comfortable. The sweater will be just a little longer than planned. I'll let you continue. And remember to measure from the center of the hexagon to the side for a little more accuracy. Write down how many rounds you need to reach your calculated measurement, then make a second identical hexagon. I'll only tune the next video for the following step. 19. The Breezy Sweater: Sleeve seam: We're now ready to sing the tops of the sleeves. If you have it already, fold both hexagons this way with the right side of the final round facing you. Play stitch markers if needed. We'll use the same technique as in the previous project, the reversible seam. Cut a piece of yarn about three times the length of the sleeve and start seaming. If you need a quick refresher on how to make the reversible seam, you can watch the sleeve seaming video from the first project. But I'll show you the technique here in fast forward. Always insert your needle from the inside out through each matching stitch. Repeat the same process with the second hexagon. If you need to add rows to your hexagon to reach the required bust circumference, join in the next video. If not, I'll see you in the one after that. And 20. The Breezy Sweater: Adding rows to the front and back: If you follow the measurement from your Sweater length calculation, you may need to add rows to two sides of the hexagons and the front and back to make up the missing width needed for the bust circumference. Use the result from the larger calculation, the half panel measurement. You can either calculate the missing difference or simply add rows until your panel reaches the right measurement. I'm also showing the precalculated chart based on standard measurements for anyone who skipped the math earlier. If the result is very close to your current measurement, and one more row would make it much too wide because of your yarn weight, you can simply skip this step and join me in the next video. Otherwise, here's how to add the rows. And remember, you can always estimate ahead of time how many rows you'll need by checking approximately how much one or two rows measure. Place stitch markers if needed on the sides of the hexagon, where you add the rows. You can place them in the two bottom corners. Once again, join your yarn with the wrong side of the final round facing you to maintain the stitch pattern. In this example, I start here. We'll work the craning stitch in rows just like in the previous project. Start by changing four. Then make three double crochet in the next phase, followed by one chain. If you're comfortable with the technique, you can simply follow the chart below the video and I'll show it on the screen in a few seconds. Otherwise, I'll show you the beginning, the end, and a few details to watch four. You can place your marker in the chain four space and continue your grani stitches. Three double crochet chain one in each following space. I'll meet you at the sleeve sin. To keep your granny stitches even and avoid adding an extra one, skip the hexagon corners on each side of the sin and make your grannies stitch directly in the center of the sin. Then skip the other hexagon corner right beside it, and work into the next phase. Continue to the end. When you reach the final bottom corner inside the hexagon, make one double crochet. So far, it should look like this. You've added one row to the front and back at the same time. Measure to see if you've reached a desired width. If not, continue adding rows. Remember that even numbered rows of granistich will always begin with a shell of three double crochet. So chain three and make two double crochet in the space directly below. You can place marker at the top of the starting chain three. Continue making shells of three double crochet followed by one chain across the entire roof. Finish with a shell of three double crochet in the chain four space from the previous roof. Continue this way, alternating these two rows until you reach the desired width. Count how many additional rows you added and repeat the same thing on the second hexagon. Always keeping in mind the stitch pattern with the wrong side of the previous row facing you. I'll let you continue and leave the chart on screen. Join me in the next video once you've finished. At the end, you can cut and fasten off the yarn on one panel, but leave the yarn attached on the other for the back section. No 21. The Breezy Sweater: The back part: If you didn't need to add extra rows to your hexagons, you can work the back panel exactly like in the first project, except it will be slightly wider to allow room for your head. Work rows of grantich from the top corner to the bottom corner of the hexagons across the back using the measurement for your size divided between the two panels. As I mentioned in the first project, if the height of one row keeps you from matching the exact measurement, remember that it's better for it to be slightly wider. It will simply give your neck a little more room. You can follow the chart instructions and refer back if needed to the back panel video from the first project. For everyone else, the technique is the same. I'll simply show you where to start and end your role since it's no longer as obvious as it was before adding ros. If you finished the previous step with an even numbered row, stay here. If you finished with an odd numbered row, skip ahead to three minute 25 in the video. For everyone else, follow the sleeve scene visually to locate the top of the back. Place a stitch marker in the space directly across from it. Place the second marker at the bottom of the back in the third chain of the first shell. Do the same on the other panel. With the wrong side of the last row facing you, you'll begin either at the bottom or the top. If you didn't cut your yarn, you can keep using it. Otherwise, join a new strand. Since the sequence calls for an odd numbered row, start by chaining four. Then make one shell, three double crochet in the next space. Continue this way along the side, and I'll meet you at the top of the back. At the end, in the space with your marker at the sleeve seam, make one double crochet. You can then continue working granny stitch rows until you reach the required measurement. I'll display the chart and show how many inches this section should measure for your size. If it's too small on your screen, I've included the picture below the video. You should already have a good idea of how many rows to make based on the measurements from your swatch. When you're done, repeat the same thing on the other side, making sure to begin with the wrong side of the last row facing you. Once you've completed all these steps, you can cut and fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail because we'll sew the back panel and the front together in the next video. You can join me there now. If you finished the previous step with an unnumbered row, follow the sleeve scene visually. And since there is a shell right in the center, begin in the space directly beside it on the back side. You can place a stitch marker there or simply begin in that space, making sure the wrong side of the last row is facing you. Since the sequence now calls for an even numbered row, chain three, then make two double crochet in the same space. Chain one and continue working your granny stitch shells until you reach the final chain four space. And before I show you the chart, since you'll be starting your rows either from the bottom or the top of the back, place a stitch marker on the other panel in the space directly beside the center at the sleeve sein to show where your first row should end. Continue working granny stitch rows until you reach the required measurement. I'll display the chart and show how many inches this section should measure for your size. You should already have a good idea of how many rows to make based on the measurements from your swatch. When you're done, repeat the same thing on the other side, making sure to begin with the wrong side of the last row facing you. You can cut and fasten off your yarn leaving a long tail because we'll sew the back panel and the front together. 22. The Breezy Sweater: Sew the back and front : You can now sew the back panels together. It's easier if the right side of the last row is facing you. I'll let you work. We'll meet back for the front sea. Once the back is assembled, we'll sew the front the same way, leaving enough space for the head, of course. We'll make a V-neck. The neck line depth will vary depending on the size, but it's easy to adjust to your preference. Measure from the top of the sweater to where you'll stop sewing. Place a stitch marker so you don't go past it. Keep in mind that the neck line will actually end up about 1 " higher once we add the edging. I'll let you sew. We'll meet back at the end. I recommend not waving in this yarn tail, Leave it loose throughout the project since you'll be able to adjust the neckline once the sweater is nearly finished. One very important detail, especially for children's sizes, is to make sure the head fits comfortably through the opening, keeping in mind that it measures 18-20 " around. Now let's move on to the sleeves. 23. The Breezy Sweater: Adding rnds to sleeves: To figure out how many rounds to add to the sleeves, we'll use the same calculation as for the card again. I've also included a chart here with the measurements already calculated for standard sizes. If you don't need to add any rounds, you can still watch the first round with me to see how to place your stitches. Then you can skip ahead to the decrease round in the next video. Write down your measurement and join me at two minute 45 in the video. If you don't want to see the math behind the calculation. For everyone else, measure from the back of your neck to your wrist. Since I've designed this pattern with three quarter sleeves, substract 4 " for adults and 3 " for kids. Also subtract the cuff, which will be 3 " for adults and two and a quarter inches for kids. Finally, substract one decrease round before the cuff. Earlier, you already measured the height of one granny role. So do the calculation and write down your result. Then measuring from the center of the back, add round until you reach your calculated measurement. I'll display the formula on screen so you can calculate your own measurement. You shouldn't need to add too many rounds since these sleeves are shorter than the cardigan in the first project. If you've already reached or gone past your measurement, you won't need any extra rounds, just the decrease one before the cuff. Your sleeve will simply be a little longer than planned. Since we've already seen how to add sleeve rounds in the previous project, I'll just remind you of the one important detail not to forget. This will be useful both for those adding rounds and for those starting directly with the decrease round. Join your yarn under the sleeve with the wrong side of the last round facing you. Chain three, then make two double crochet to form your first shell. Chain one, then continue working granny stitch all the way around. The only difference comes when you reach the sleeve sing. Don't work a shell into the hexagon corners on either side of the sea. Instead, work one shell right in the center of the seam. At the end, join with a slips, stitch to the third chain at the beginning. Then turn every round just like with the hexagons. When you're done, note how many rounds you added so you can work the exact same number on the second sleeve. I'll display the chart on screen, and I'll see you in the next video to work our decrease round. 24. The Breezy Sweater: Sleeve decrease: We'll start shaping the leave by working one round with granititch decreases every other shell. Begin with three chains. Turn and complete your first shell in the same space. Next, work one granitich decrease across the next two spaces. I'll show you how again. Make one regular double crochet in the next space. Then add the cit together across this space and the next, then one double crochet in the second space. Repeat all the way around. One shell of three double crochet, then one grani stitch decrease across the next two spaces. Always separated by one chain. If you only have one space left at the end instead of two, just work a regular shell. There's no need to be exact. This round is only meant to remove a few stitches before our single crochet round. Where we'll calculate the exact decreases. I'll leave the decrease chart on the screen. I'll see you when you finish. Before we continue, we'll figure out how many stitches we need to remove to match the circumference of your wrist or the part of your arm where the sleeve will end. Since the cuff is very stretchy, you can use your actual wrist measurement. I'll display the standard size chart here. Write down your measurement, and I remind you of the formula. First, determine how many stitches fit across 4 ". If there isn't enough room on your sleeve, you can measure anywhere on one of the panels. Remember that one shell plus the chain that follows it counts as four stitches. In my case, I have 19 stitches across 4 ". It really doesn't matter if you're between two numbers. Next, use a rule of three with your wrist circumference. If it's, for example, 6.5 ", I'll need to end up with 31 stitches. I'll let you do your calculation. Count how many stitches you currently have. A quick trick is to count how many shells you have and multiply by four. Just be careful not to count the decrease shells twice. I explained the next formula in more detail in the previous project, so I'll just give you the short version here. Subtract the number of stitches needed for your wrist from the number of stitches you currently have. Then divide that result by your current stitch count to figure out how to distribute your decreases evenly. Round your result and you'll note to work one decrease within each group of stitches. My little trick to make it easier to visualize is to subtract two, so you know how many regular single crochet work between each decrease. If your result is zero, you'll simply work decreases all the way around. I'll put the calculation on the screen, and I'll see you again in just a few seconds. You can now work your single crushe around on the right side of the sweater. If needed, use a stitch marker to identify the side of the sweater. Chain one to begin, then follow your calculated sequence, alternating single crushe and decreases. This time, place your stitch marker on the turning chain. At the end, join into the beginning chain. Write down your final single crush stitch count so you can repeat the exact same thing on the other sleeve. I'll let you continue, and we'll start the cuff in the next video. 25. The Breezy Sweater: The sleeve cuffs : We'll make a stretchy cuff worked per padicular to the sleeve. We'll attach it every two rows along the sleeve. Here's how to make it. Make a foundation chain the length of your cuff, 3 " for adults and two and a quarter inches for kids. Measure your chain and adjust it until it reaches the right length. Here on screen, I'm making a kid size, and mine measures exactly two and a quarter inches. Once you have the right length, chain one more for the turning chain. Make one single crusher in the second chin from the hook. And in every remaining chain. At the end, make a slip stitch into the next two stitches of the sleeve. To know where to go, gently pull on your hook. If the stitch moves, it's already been used. So move to the next one right here. Make one slip stitch through both loops this time. Then another slip stitch in the following stitch. Turn your work. Do not chain. Skip the two slip stitches you just made. Then make one single crochet in the back loop only of every following stitch. Make sure to go under the strand, not over it. The back loop is the one farthest away from you. When you reach the end, stop in the last single crochet and ignore the turning chain. Chain one, then turn your work. This time I recommend turning forward like a page in a book. It will make the next stitch easier to work into and keep the sweater from twisting around itself. Still working in the back loop only, make one single crochet in the same stitch right beside your turning chain. And continue making single crochet in the back loop only of every following stitch. At the end, make a slip stitch into the next two stitches of the sleeve. You've now worked two rows back and forth. Measure quickly to make sure it looks about right and it is close to the correct length. If not, check how many stitches you need to add or remove, then start again from the foundation chain. Also note how many single crochet you have in one row, not counting the turning chain. So you can repeat the same thing on the other sleeve. The first slip stitch secures the row we just made, and the second starts the next one. So don't chain, turn your work directly backward as usual. Skip the two slip stitches, then make one single crochet in the back loop only of every following stitch. Finishing the back loop only of the last single crochet from the previous role. Get into the habit of checking that the cuff stays straight and that you haven't skipped a stitch. Chain one, turn forward like a page in a book, then make one single crochet in the back loop only of the same stitch and every following stitch. At the end, make a slip stitch into the next two stitches of the sleeve. Repeat the same steps all the way around the sleeve. I'll leave the instructions on screen and give you a few tips to keep in mind as you work. When turning at the end of a row, it's best to turn as usual toward the back when you're at the base of the sleeve and turn forward like a page when you're at the outer edge of the cuff. This keeps the sleeve from twisting around itself by always turning the same way. You'll appreciate this little trick. Also, get into the habit of counting your stitches occasionally to make sure the number stays the same. And regularly check that the cuff stays even and that you haven't skipped any stitches. I'll let you continue. I'll meet you at the end when you only have one or two stitches left on the sleeve. If you have two stitches left on the slip, work as usual. Two slip stitches and two rows. But if only one stitch remains as shown on the screen, make just one slip stitch and one row. So you'll only skip one slip stitch before beginning your final row. And you'll finish at the outer edge of the cuff. Either way, at the end, you can cut the yarn and fast enough. We'll sew the final row to the foundation chain. If you'd like to know how to count rows on this type of cuff, you can see that every two rows create a small ridge. This ridge here represents two rows. So it's fairly easy to count. If you're at the base of the cuff, use the reversible seam as usual, working from the inside out through the matching stitches. If you're at the outer edge, do the same thing, but with one small difference. Since sewing through both loops would flatten the ribbing or through only one loop of the final rope to keep more texture. I I'll let you continue sewing. Then repeat the steps from the last three videos on the other sleeve. And I'll meet you in the next video to finish the bottom of the sweater. 26. The Breezy Sweater: Bottom of the sweater: For most sizes, we'll only add one round to the bottom of the sweater to make the edging easier to construct. Make sure the wrong side of the final round is facing you. Join your yarn at the center bottom at the back sin if the final round ended with shells of three double crochet. Otherwise, join it in one of the spaces on either side of the sin. We'll work one granny stitch around like we did on the sleeves. Begin by chaining three and making two double crochet in the same space. Chain one, then make one shell in each following space all the way around. I'll show you diagrams on screen for any areas where you may be unsure where to place your shells, especially around added rows and seams. Be careful not to make shells in the bottom corners of the hexagons, or you'll increase the stitch count. You'll notice two shells sitting closer together than usual. I'll leave the chart here if you need it. At the end, join a slip stitch into the third chain from the beginning. If you need to add more rounds to reach a specific length, you can repeat this round. You can pause the video. I'll meet you for the next step. We'll work one round of single crochet before starting the edging. This pattern is designed to be fitted at the waist or wherever you chose it to end. So we'll calculate how many stitches to remove to narrow the sweater circumference. If you'd rather keep the sweater straight, simply work a regular round of single crochet around the right side of the sweater. For everyone else, we'll use the same formulas we used for the wrist circumference. Substract 4 " from your actual waist circumference for negative es. Then use a proportion by measuring how many stitches fit in 4 ". You already checked this on the sleeve, but I've noticed that the weight of the sweater usually loosens the tension at the bottom. It doesn't hold its shape as firmly as the sleeve. So you can take this measurement again on your final round and use this new information for a more accurate calculation. Otherwise, the bottom edging will simply be less fitted. In my example, I had two fewer stitches in 4 " at the bottom of the sweater. After using the cross multiplication to find how many stitches I need for the waist circumference, I get a total of 111 stitches. Next, count how many stitches you currently have by counting the shells in your final round. Then multiply that number by four because one shell plus the chain that follows it counts as four stitches. Then use the formula to determine how often to make your single crusher decreases. For example, if I have 40 shells times four, that gives me 160 stitches. Substract the number of stitches needed for the waist circumference from that number. 160 -111 gives me 49 stitches to remove. Then divide your current stitch count by the number of stitches to remove. Here, I get 3.2 rounded to three. So in each group of three stitches, there will be one decrease. To make it easier to visualize, subtract two from that number. So I repeat one regular single crochet followed by one decrease all around the sweater. Since the waist circumference is much larger than the wrist, rounding to a whole number can create a noticeable difference. So I'd suggest rounding to the nearest half for more accuracy. In that case, alternate between two sequences. For example, if your result is close to 3.5, work one single crochet forward by one decrease, then two single crochet food by one decrease and repeat those two sequences all the way around. That will bring you very close to the exact number of stitches to remove. It takes a little more concentration, but the fit will be more precise. If you'd rather keep things simple and run to a whole number, the circumference will simply be a little looser or tighter. I'll let you do your calculation. Work the single crochet decrease round on the right side of the sweater. Chain one, then follow the sequence of single crochet and decrease you calculated. At the end, join into the starting chain. You can place a stetchmrker there, so it's easy to find later. I'll let you continue. You can pause the video and I'll meet you to finish the edging. Still working on the right side of the sweater, we'll do the exact same thing as we did for the sleeves. Make a foundation chain to the desired length, 2 " for adults and 1.5 " for kids under ten, and a quick tip, you can measure directly against the sleeve cuff, so you don't have to guess how many chains to make. Once you've counted how many chains fit the correct measurement, add one turning chain and work your single crochet into all the following chains. Since the steps are the same as for the sleeve cuff, I'll quickly review them. After completing your first row, make a slip stitch into the next two stitches along the bottom of the sweater. Turn your work. Skip those two slip stitches and work, single crochet in the back loop only of all the following stitches, ignoring the turning chain at the end. Chain one, then turn forward so the sweater doesn't keep twisting around itself. Make one single crochet in the same stitch right beside the turning chain, still working in the back loop only. Then single crochet in the back loop of every following stitch. Make a slip stitch into the next two stitches along the bottom and repeat all the way around. Make sure you always have the same number of single crusher in each row and that the edging stays straight. I'll let you continue. I'll meet you at the end. At the end, cut the urn and fast enough. Then sing the final row to the foundation chain. The sweater is almost finished. There is only one step left. 27. The Breezy Sweater: Make the "V-neck": Before finishing the sweater with the V-neck, try it on to see if you're still happy with the neckline depth. Keep in mind that it will end up about 1 " higher. The etching will be three quarters of an inch for adults and half an inch for kids. But the point of the V will add another quarter inch of height. You can weave in the yarn just enough to keep it from coming loose, but don't cut it yet, just in case you want to make adjustments. Then weave in the other yarn ends at the top of the sweater. On the right side, join your yarn in the stitch where you made your last sein stitch. Chain one, then make one single crochet in the sein stitch. Place your marker there. And you will work single crochet all around the neckline opening. When you reach the top, there's no exact rule around the sleeve join. As long as your single crochet don't leave any gaps. It's always better to have slightly more stitches than too few to leave enough room for the neck and head. Along the rows of the back panel, work two single crochet along the sides of the double crochet and the chin tree spaces. You can also add one stitch at the seam. I'll show you the diagrams here to help you see where to place your single crochet. I'll need to at the end of the round. Make your last single crochet in the stitch on the other side of the seam. Chain one and turn. To keep the neckline in a V shape, we'll skip one stitch at each end of the next rows. Here, it's the same stitch. The next stitch. So you'll work into the following stitch since the turning chain counts. You can place your stitch marker in the turning chain. Then continue making single crochet all around the neckline, stopping at the second to last stitch. I'll let you work. I'll meet you there. To make it look cleaner, we'll skip the second to last stitch and make our last single crochet in the first stitch of the previous row. For kid sizes, you've probably already reached the desired width, but I show you how to work another row for the others. Continue by changing one, turning, then skipping the next stitch and making your first single crochet in the following one. Skipping one stitch at both the beginning and end of each row creates a clean, straight seam at the point of the V. Place your stitch marker in the turning chain, then continue working single crochet. M at the end, skip the second to last stitch and make one single crochet in the turning chain. Repeat the same process until you reach the desired width. The final row will be made of slip stitches, regardless of which direction you finished. This time, chain one, turn and make slip stitches into every stitch. Don't skip any stitches this time and keep them fairly loose so the neckline doesn't become too tight. At the end, join into the turning chain to close the neck line. Cut the yarn, fasten it off, and weave it invisibly by pulling the loop through inserting the yarn into the next stitch through both loops, then coming back through the back loop only of the last stitch. Then you can sew this small section closed. There you go. Your V-neck is finished. If you notice small holes from skipping stitches, you can discreetly close them with your arm and needle. Try the sweater on again to make sure you're happy with the fit. Since the last step doesn't take very long, you can always redo it by adding or removing rose if needed. You may have noticed that I intentionally made an example of what not to do because no child's head would fit through an opening that small. It's much too narrow because the back panel isn't wide enough. When making a sweater with this technique, that's a very important point to keep in mind. In the pattern, the back panel is slightly wider than the cardigans to allow the head to pass through comfortably. If you'd like a lower neckline, you can simply adjust this section. All that's left is to weave in your ends and proudly wear your creation. In the final project, we'll make a complete jacket with a hood, buttons, and optional pockets. Most importantly, you'll learn how to customize every part exactly the way you want. I'll see you there. 28. The Snuggly Cardigan: Materials and techniques: To crochet the Snuggly Cardigan, in addition to the basic supplies, here are the yarns and crochet hooks I used. I recommend choosing a bulky to Super Bulky yarn, which will better suit the style we're going for and work up really quickly. But the pattern can also be made with the yarn of your choice. I used drops in the color pink sand, a booki alpacarn wool blend with a seven millimeter hook for this version. For this one, I use drop snow in the color powder, a super bulky, 100% wool yarn, with an eight millimeter hook. And finally, I also tested the same design with an acrylic and wool blend. The lion brand wool is ticking quick in the color succulent with a nine millimeter hook. I've included the approximate quantities for each size and each yarn weight for the hooded version below the video and in the pattern. For the video tutorial, I'll be using drops Alaska in the color pearl white with a six millimeter hook and making a size for 2-years-old so you can carely see each step. The Snuggly Cardigan can be make for women, men, and kids. You can choose to follow the standard measurements provided or use your round measurements. You'll once again need your bust circumference and the garment length. I designed the pattern to fall just below the waist, but you can easily customize this measurement. Next, you'll need the length from the back of the neck to the wrist and your wrist circumference. If you'd like to add a hood, you'll need to take two additional measurements so it's comfortable without being too small or too large. For the first one, to find the height, measure from the top between your shoulder and neck up to the top of your head. Write down this measurement. For the second one, to find the depth or width of the hood, measure from the outer corner of one eye to the other going around the back of your head. Write down this measurement as well. Now let's go over the steps for making the cardigan. This time, we're going to have a little more fun with the concept. First, we'll combine two different stitches within the granny pattern to create two different looks, one for the body and one for the sleeve. Once again, the length will be our main reference for knowing when to stop the hexagon. Then since the cardigan has a looser fit, both around the chest and the squeeze, we'll continue working our hexagon on only five sides until we reach the required bus circumference. This will slow down the increase in length. After making two identical hexagons, we'll fold them and seeing the tops of the sleeves closed. Then we'll add the back section, sin the panels together at the back, and add rounds to the sleeves followed by the cuffs. Next, we'll add a ribbing along the bottom of the cardigan. For those who want to add a hood, that will be the next step. We'll finish with a buttonhole edging at the very end. You'll also have the option to add decorative pockets. If you're ready, let's get started. 29. The Snuggly Cardigan: The hexagon : Start the first round the same way as usual. I'll leave the diagraunm here and speed up the video. I'll need 24 round two. This is where you need a little more concentration. We'll divide our hexagon into two different stitch patterns. Half will be worked in granny stitch as usual. This section will become the sleeves, while the other half will use regular double crochet and become the front and back of the card again. If you're following the diagram, you'll work clockwise. Start with a granny stitch. So chain three. Turn your work. Make two double crochet in the same place. Followed by chain two and three double crushes still in the same place. In one as usual to separate the two shells. Then in the next space, make one shell of three double crochet. Then chain two. This is the corner where we'll begin using regular double crochet. So make only two double crochet in the same space. Place a stitch marker in this corner to help you on the next round. Then make one double crochet in each stitch of the shelf from the previous round. You'll have three double crochet on this side. Then in the next space, make two double crochet, Chain two, then two double crochet. Then make one double crochet in each of the next three stitches. Again, make two double crochet, chain two, two double crochet in the next space. And make one double crochet in each of the next three stitches. Make two double crochet in the next space. We now have three sides worked in regular double crochet. So in this corner, we'll transition back to granny stitch. After chaining two, make three double crochet in the same space this time. Chain one to separate the shells, place a second stitch marker in this corner. And now we're back to granny stitch. Make two shells of three double crochet separated by chain two in the next space. After chaining one, join with a slip stitch into the third starting chain. You can see that we've really divided our hexagon into two sections, three sides with regular double crochet and three sides with granny stitches. We now have our base to keep going. For round three, we'll read the diagram counterclockwise. Chain three, then turn your work. Make two double crochet in the same space, followed by chain one. Since we're still on the granny stitch side, make two shells separated by chain two in the next corner. Chain one, then make one shell of three double crochet in the next phase. Chain one where your stitch marker is is where we'll make the transition. Make three double crochet, chain two, then two double crochet in this corner. You can replace your stitch marker in the corner to help with the next round. This time, make one double crochet in each of the next seven stitches. There will always be four more double crochet on each side with every round. Be careful not to miss one, especially at the end here. It may look like you should go straight into the corner, but don't are still one double crochet to make. You can count at first to make sure you haven't missed a stitch. Make two double crochet, chain two, then two double crochet, in the next space. Continue by making one double crochet in each of the next seven stitches. Get into the habit of looking at the next side to know whether you'll need granny stitches or regular double crochet. In this corner, we're still working regular double crochet. So make two double crochet, chain two, then two double crochet. And continue once again by making double crochet in all the following stitches from the previous round. We've now reached the transition corner. Make two double crochet, chain two, then one shell of three double crochet in the same space. Feel free to replace your stitch marker in the transition corners to help you remember them. Then continue in granny stitch to the end. I'll speed up the video. Finish as usual with a slip stitch on top of chain three. Fold the hexagon in half by matching the transition corners like this. The granny stitch section will become the sleeve and the regular double crusher section will become the front and back of the body. If you don't want to do the math, here's the precalculated chart based on standard sizes. You can complete both hexagons and join me in the next video. Yes, it's completely normal for the hexagon to look much smaller than what you're used to. For men sizes, if you're following the standard measurement chart, you can skip the next two videos and join me for the sleeve singing. For everyone else, join in the next video for the calculations. 30. The Snuggly Cardigan: Adjust the hexagon: Once again, the priority is the cardigan length. We're going to play with the technique a little since we want a loose fit, not only around the chest, but also around the sleeves. After determining the measurement of our hexagon based on the length, we'll continue working only five sides of the hexagon, so we no longer affect the bottom of the Cardigan. If you've already made your hexagon using your precalculated chart from the previous video, write down its measurement and join me at two minute 40 in the video for the next step. For everyone else, as I mentioned earlier, working on only five sides of the hexagon will allow us to increase the bus circumference and the sleeves. But by adding rounds to the top of the sis, we'll also make the top section larger, which will inevitably add some length. So we'll do a few calculations. First, we'll find the half width of one panel needed to reach the bus circumference, including es. We'll use the same formula as in the previous projects. Take your boss circumference and add 6 " of s for kids sizes through adult large. And 4 " for sizes two large up. Then substract anything that won't be part of the hexagons. The ribbing will be 1.5 " for adults and 1 " for kids, multiplied by two because it will be on both sides of the front, plus the back part, which will be 3-7 " depending on the size. Divide that total by four to get the width of half panel. I'll leave the formula on screen so you can do your own calculation. Next, to find the half width of a panel based on the length, take the cardigan length and subtract the bottom ribbing, which will be 3 " for adults and 2.25 " for kids under ten. Then substract from that tall, the half panel measurement you just calculated. That will tell you when to stop your hexagon. Always measuring half aside from the center. I'll let you do your calculation, and it's normal for the result to be smaller than usual. I'll let you continue. I'll leave the diagram on screen. But I recommend doing a quick check every one or two additional rounds because combining the two stitch patterns means the fabric doesn't always behave exactly as expected. So the cardigan may end up a little longer to make sure everything looks right, measure your hexagon and calculate how much is missing to reach your half panel measurement. For example, four size small right now, I'm missing 2 " to reach my measurement. So I'll position my measuring tape 2 " beyond it in the length direction to see where the cardigan will end without including the ribbing we'll add. If the measurement goes too far, for example, I should reach 14 ", but I'm closer to 16. That means the cardigan will be about 2 " longer than planned. Since one round measures about an inch, I can simply undo two rounds and check again. Now I'm missing 4 " to reach my measurement. So I'll do the same test again by adding the missing 4 ". This time, it reaches exactly where I want it. Doing this quick check now can save you some disappointment later if your cardigan ends up too long. You can see it makes a big difference to rely on the actual measurements. And it's normal for your hexagon to look very small. I'll let you continue. Write down how many rounds you made, then make a second identical hexagon. I'll meet you again in a few minutes. Now that both hexagons are done, fold them so the granny stitch section forms the sleeve. Now we'll start crushing on only five sides. You can play stitch markers on the two bottom corners of the hexagon. As always, make sure the wrong side of the last round is facing you. Then join the yarn in one of the bottom hexagon corners where you placed your stitch markers. Continue working your rows as usual, but over only five sides this time. So chain three and make one double crochet in each following stitch along the side. I'll meet you at the next corner. When you reach the top corner, transition back to granny stitch by making two double crochet, chain two, three double crochet, in the next chain two space. Chain one. Then continue in granny stitch by making shells of three double crochet followed by chain one in each following space. Continue as usual in granny stitch over three sides and to. Then crochet into the transition corner between the granny stitches and regular double crochet. I'll make you at the final corner where your stitch marker is. When you reach the end, make one double crochet in the corner in the chain two space where your marker is. And stop there. You've now worked over five sides of the hexagon. Continue repeating the same thing, always working over the same five sides until you reach the half panel width, you calculate it. For the next row, chain three. Turn your work. Then continue following the pattern. Start in the next ditch right here. And finish on the other side in the third chain from the previous roop. I leave the diagram on screen. Continue until you reach the measurement based on your bust circumference. Then repeat the exact same thing on your second hexagon. And one quick note for woman sizes four large and five large. The sleeves may end up too long if you complete all the rows needed to reach the measurement based on your bus circumference. I suggest tapping about three or 4 " before your measurement. You can then complete the missing width by crushing two sides separately, sides one and two and four and five on screen, leaving side three as, which will slow down the increase in sleeve length. For everyone else, the same principle applies if you want shorter sleeves. At the end, you can leave the yarn attached to one panel, so you can continue with the back section. For the other one, cut the yarn and fast enough. Your cardigan should now have the correct width and length. Join me in the next video to seeing the tops of the sleeves 31. The Snuggly Cardigan: Sewing the sleeves: If you haven't already, fold your hexagon, so the granny stitch section forms the sleeve. We'll sing the tub using the same reversible sin technique, working from the inside out through each matching stitch. I'll meet you in the next video to work on the back section. 32. The Snuggly Cardigan: The back part : Once the sleeves are seamed, we'll add the back section. You can place stitch markers at the top and bottom corners of both panels where we'll add this section. Position the panel where you didn't cut the yarn on the correct side so you can continue working the rows without joining new yarn. Here's the chart with the back measurements already divided by size between the two panels. To get an idea of how many rows to make on each one, measure the rows in the double crochet section. See these little bands here. There are two rows in each one. So measure how many rows fit within the number of inches you need to make. And since this section will stretch a little more, you can run down if you're unsure whether to make one more row or one less. Start with the wrong side of the last row facing you, either at the top of the cardigan here or at the bottom. In the first double crochet. If you're starting at the top, join your yarn in the top corner of the hexagon, right next to the sleeve sein. Chain three and make one double crochet in each following stitch. At the end, finish on top of chain three. Change three. Turn and do exactly the same thing. One double crochet in each following stitch. Repeat until you reach your measurement, which will be half of the back section. And if you are starting at the bottom of the cardigan, be careful not to skip a stitch at the end. Make your last double crochet in the top corner before the scene. You can pause the video and work your rows. And when you're done, cut the yarn needle a long tail and fast enough. After completing the second panel, check that the measurement looks right. You can sing the two sections together using one of the yarn tails. Now we'll add rounds to the sleeves. 33. The Snuggly Cardigan: Adding rounds the sleeves: For those who don't want to do the calculations, here is a chart showing how many inches to add to the sleeves for each size. If you don't need to add any, join me at 2 minutes 30 in the video. For the others, we'll determine how many additional rounds you'll need to add to your sleeve. To find out, measure from the back of the neck to the wrist. We'll subtract the cuff, which will be 2 " for adults and 1.5 " for kids. Then since the sleeves are looser than in the other projects, we'll work two decrease rounds before the cuff to narrow the sleeve at the wrist. For kids sizes, you'll only work one decrease round. You can find the height of one round by measuring one or two granny stitches anywhere on your sleeve. This will tell you how many inches of rounds you'll need to add. To find the number of inches you're missing, subtract your current measurement from the total. You can also use a proportion to determine exactly how many rounds to make based on the measurement of your granny stitches. I'll let you do your calculations. You can join your yarn in one of the spaces under the sleeve with the wrong side of the last row facing you. Chain three, then make two double crochet in the same space. Chain one, and continue working granny stitches all around as in the previous project. Remember that when you reach the seam, you'll skip both hexagon corners and make one shell right in the center of the seam. At the end, join into the third chain. I'll put the diagram on screen. I'll meet you back here to start narrowing the sleeve. Measure the length again to make sure it looks right. You'll still have the decrease rounds and the cuff to make. Once again, we'll make a grainy stitch decrease every other stitch all around. Start with a wriggle or shell of three double crochet, followed by a chain one. Then make your decrease over the next two spaces by making one double crochet, two double crochet together across the current and next space. Then one double crochet in that same space. Repeat this sequence all around. One grange, one decrease. If your sleeve is already too long, you could work one round using only decreases all around. That will save you some length. And if there's only one space left at the end when you're supposed to make a decrease, make a wriggle or shell instead. Repeat this round a second time except for kids sizes. Make a decrease every other stitch, starting with a regular shell, and be careful not to work into the decrease itself, but into the spaces before and after it. I'll let you work. I'll meet you when you're done. Next, we'll determine how many stitches we'll need for the wrist circumference. Count how many stitches fit within 4 ", keeping in mind that one shell and the chain that follows it count as four stitches. Use a proportion with your wrist measurement and write down the result. Now count how many stitches you currently have by counting the number of shells in the last round. Be careful not to count the decreases twice. Multiply that number of shells by four, and we'll do the calculation. Substract the number of stitches needed for the wrist from that total, then divide your current stitch count by the result to determine how to space your decreases in the next round. Run to the nearest whole number, then subtract two to find how many regular single crochet to make between each decrease. I'll let you do your calculation. Just before starting the next round, place a stitch marker to identify the inside of the card again. Work the single crochet round on the right side of it. Chain one. Then work your sequence of single crochet and decreases all the way around. You can place a stitch marker in the chain to help you find it at the end. At the end, John Willa slip stitch into the starting chain. Write down the total number of single crochet you made. We'll make the cuff in the next video. 34. The Snuggly Cardigan: Sleeve cuffs: We'll make a ribbed edging by alternating front and back post half double crochet. Still working on the right side of the cardigan, chain two, and make one half double crochet in each following stitch. I chose to use half double crochet for this project because I find that with thicker yarn, it gives a nicer finish, and it's tighter than double crochet. At the end, join between the two starting chains and the first half double crochet. Don't turn. Continue by chaining to and make a front post half double crochet around the next stitch. Then a back post, half double crochet around the next one and repeat this alternation all the way around. At the end, join again between the two starting chains and the first post half double crochet. Repeat this round until you reach the desired length. Make sure to work front post half double crochet around the front post stitches from the previous round and vice versa to create the ribbed effect. Repeat the previous steps on the second sleeve, keeping track of the number of rounds and stitches you made on this one. If needed, you can rewatch the videos. I'll meet you in the next one to make the bottom edging. 35. The Snuggly Cardigan: Bottom ribbing: If you need to add some length to the cardigan, work rows of double crochet back and forth along the bottom. If you're not sure where to place them, watch the next row of single crochet that I'll be making. You'll place your double crochet in the same spot. For everyone else, join your yarn in one of the bottom corners. This will be along the side of a double crochet if you added rows to your first hexagon. Otherwise, it will be in one of the corners. Chain one, then work single crochet all along the bottom edge. But I'll show you where to place them. Start by making a single crochet in the same space where you joined. If you're along the side of a double crochet, make a second one in the same spot and follow the simple rule of making two single crochet along the side of each double crochet when they're facing the other direction. In the corner of the hexagon, you can make one single crochet. Then continue along the double crochet, working normally into each stitch. When the double crochet change direction at the back section, follow the rule of making two single crochet along the side of each double crochet. I'll let you work. We'll meet on the other side, and I'll put a diagram on screen showing the situations where you might wonder where to place your single crochet. It should lie nice and flat without any rippling. Next, chain two, turn and work half double crochet in all the following stitches. The first one will go here. If you're still having trouble finding the next stitch, you can count the little Vs that follow your hook. Here are the two chains we just made, then the same stitch. This one here will be in the next stitch. Continue working half double crochet all along this edge. Finish in the first single crochet of the previous room. For the next row, hang two. Turn and alternate front and back post half double crochet around all the following stitches. Two At the end, make a regular half double crochet into the second chain of the previous row. Repeat this rule until the edging measures 3 " for adults and 2.25 " for kids under ten. Working front post half double crochet around the back post half double crochet of the previous row and vice versa to create a ribbed effect. I'll put the diagram on screen. I'll meet you at the end once you've reached the correct measurement. If you're adding a hood to your cardigan, you can join in the next video for everyone else will move on to the ribbing around the opening. M. 36. The Snuggly Cardigan: The hood: Before continuing, you can weave in all the yarn ends at the top of the card again. You can choose whether or not to add a hood. Stay here if you're making one. Otherwise, you can go straight to the next video. We'll crochet the hood directly onto the top of the card again. But first, we'll determine how many stitches we'll need for the width. Measure how many double crochet fit within 4 ". You can use the measurements in this chart to determine the width or calculate the size of your hood using your own measurements that you took before starting the project. Here's the calculation. From the outer corner of one eye to the other, going around the back of your head, subtract the ribbing we add. For this cardigan, the ribbing will be 1.5 " all around for adults and 1 " for kids. Since it will be on both sides of the hood, we'll double that measurement. So substract two or 3 " from your actual measurement. For a looser fit, you can add one or 2 ". Then use a proportion with the number of double crochet you had within 4 " to determine how many double crochet you'll need to make. Adjust your result to the nearest odd number. Write it down and place a stitch marker at the top of the cardigan centered over the back seam. This will be your center stitch. We'll count the stitches to the right and left from this point. Substrat one from your total and divide that number by two. In my example, I would count 20 stitches to the left and right of my marker. You can do your own calculation. Now, to know where to count and place your stitches evenly on both sides, I've included a diagram below the video, and I'll show it here. Place two stitches along the side of each horizontal double crochet rule. Then place one in the space, the corner of the hexagon here, one at the sleeve seam, and one in the next corner. Then it becomes easy to count into each double crochet that's facing the right direction. I'll let you count and place a stitch marker where you end up. I'll put the quick calculation based on your result on screen. Then do the same on the other side. Check that it looks right. Next, join your urn on the side where the wrong side of the last roof faces you. Then start crocheting. Change three and make one double crochet in each following stitch until you reach your second marker. When you reach the joint between the sleeves and the back section, make one double crochet in the hexagon corners and at the sing. Then make two double crochet along the side of each root. And one at the back sea, your center stitch. Then do the same on the other side. I'll put the diagram on screen in case you need it. Finish where you placed your marker. For the next row, chain three, turn and simply make one double crochet in each following stitch, finishing in the third chain of the previous row. Repeat this rule until you reach the required height for your size. You can use the standard measurements and discharge or make it custom sized by adding 2 " to the measurement from the base of your neck to the top of your head. But stop your rows 3 " before the final height to avoid having a pointed top on the hood. We round off the last 3 " by making decreases in the center. Write down the measurement that is 3 " shorter than your final height and work rows until you reach that measurement. You can pause the video. I'll need to back here for the last 3 ". Next, place a stitch marker on the center stitch. You can either fold it in half lengthwise, or count the stitches to find the center one. Continue working your rows, but make one decrease on each side of the center stitch on every remaining row. Work two double crochet together in the two stitches before and after your marker. Then make one regular double crochet in the market stitch. And replace this stitch marker on that center stitch. Repeat exactly the same thing for the following rows. This will create a curve at the top of the hood. Work the remaining rows the same way. You can pause the video. Once you've reached the full height measurement, cut the yarn and fast enough, leaving a long tail. Fold the last row in half and we'll seam it to close the hood. That's it. Now we'll move on to the final step, the ribbing around the opening. 37. The Snuggly Cardigan: The outline ribbing: With the right side of the cardigan facing you, start along the side of the bottom edging. Join your yarn into one loop at the edge. We'll work a row of single crochet all around the inside of the cardigan. It can be tricky to know where to place the stitches along the side of the edging. But if you make one stitch per row, it should look nice and even as long as the edge stays nice and straight like this. Make one single crochet into the loops along the side of the edging. Make one single crochet along the side in this little single crochet here from the row just before the edging. Then it gets easier and you'll work into all the following stitches. If you'd like both sides to be identical, you can count how many stitches you made along the bottom edging. Then when you reach the hood, work into the stitch where we started the first row here and make two single crochet along the side of each double crochet o. I'll let you continue, work your way around, and I'll meet you at the bottom edging on the other side. For those who didn't make a hood, around the neck line, I'll add little arrows to show you where to work. Make one single crochet in both hexagon corners, one at the sleeve seam, and make two single crochet along the side of each double Crochero of the back section. When you reach the other side, do the same thing. One single crochet in the single crochet row just before the edging. And along each side of the half double crochet rows, try to have the same number as on the other side, but it's okay if you have one more or one less as long as the edge is straight in the end. Check that everything looks right, that it's straight and not rippling. Then we'll move on to the next row. Change too and turn, then make one half double crushe in all the following stitches. When you make the last stitch at the end, check that the edge is still nice and straight. If not, you can add a half double crochet or skip the last one. The final visual result is what matters most. Change two and turn. Now we'll start our row of alternating front post and back post half double crochet. Around the next stitch, start with a front post, half double crochet. Then a back post half double crochet and make just one or two more. Check that the edge, stay straight, and add just a previous row if needed. Before continuing, we'll plan our buttonholes. Estimate how many rows you'll need in total to reach the required ribbing width. You'll make the button holes around the middle. If you only have one or two rows left, make them in this row. If you have three or four rows left, make them in the next one. If you're having trouble visualizing how many rows you'll need, you can make a small switch by working a few rows over three or four stitches. This will help you see which row will fall around the middle of the edging. Next, we'll plan where to place the button holes. You can start by visualizing the placement by laying your buttons on the right side of the card again. As a general guideline, place the button button about 1.5 " from the edge for adults and 1 " for kids. Then space the others about 4 " apart for adults and 3 " for kids. Adjust a number of buttons based on what looks best on your card again. If you have a hood, it's a good idea to have a button near the neck so you can close it more snugly if needed. Once you've decided how many buttons to use and where to place them, use your measuring tape to place stitch markers on the left side to mark where you'll make the button holes. Then, count the stitches between the first and second marker to make sure you have the same number of stitches between the others and adjust if needed. Since the left handed video is mirrored, work one row of alternating front and back post half double crochet on the side you're currently working on and make the button holes on the other side. The principle stays the same. Put your hook back into the loop and continue alternating front and back post half double crochet. If you're working the buttonhole row, stop when you reach your first marker and chain one to replace that stitch. Then in the next stitch, continue your sequence of pose half double crochet as if you had worked one into the skipped stitch. For a cleaner look, you can arrange it so the button hole falls right after a front pose half double crochet. Make another pulse half double crochet. Then take the opportunity to test the opening with your butto. It should fit snugly through the opening. If you're working with a thinner urn, you may need to skip two stitches. So chain two to replace them. And if you need to skip three, it will no longer be centered with your marker. So undo one previous stitch, then skip three stitches and chain three to replace them. Repeat the same thing for all the button holes. On the other side, you won't need to do anything differently. I'll meet you at the other end. At the very end, make one half double crochet into the second chain of the previous row. Continue working rows of alternating post half double crochet until you reach the required ribbing width. Just make sure to work front post stitches around the back post stitches of the previous row and vice versa. If you've already reached the measurement, work one row of sip stitches all around. When you reach the button holes, make the same number of half double crochet as there are chains in the opening. Then continue with your post half double crochet in the following stitches. And if you're working the slip stitch row, make the same number of slip stitches as there are chains in the opening. The final row will be a row of slip stitches all around. Keep your yarn tension loose so the edge doesn't become too tight. One little trick I use is to pause between the two loops. It helps control the tension a little better. I'll let you finish your edging. I'll meet you at the end. Make the final slip stitch in to the chain from the previous rope for a clean finish. You can cut the yarn and fast enough. Now we'll sew the buttons onto the other side. You can line them up by counting the little ribs created by the edging. Check first to see if they line up. Depending on whether you had an even or odd number of stitches, the ribs may not line up perfectly, but that's completely fine. In that case, count the actual stitches to make sure you place the buttons directly across from the holes. Here, for example, the button hole is in my fifth stitch, counting the turning chains. So I'll place the button on the fifth stitch on the other side. Oh depending on the buttons you're using, your yarn needle may not fit through the holes. If that's the case, you can use a needle threader. You can usually find one in small emergency sewing kits or at the dollar store. Then you can sew it on with your needle. Try to sew it on so the button is centered on the edging. Then wrap the yarn two or three times under the button to secure it. No. Tie a double knot on the back, then weave in the yarn ends like all the others. Repeat the same thing with all your buttons. If you're not planning to add pockets, all that's left is to weave in all your yarn ends and cozy up in your new card again. For everyone else, join in the next video to learn how to add pockets. Oh 38. The Snuggly Cardigan: The pockets : If you'd like to add small decorative pockets to your cardigan or any other project, I suggest three different styles and make one with you. First, here are the standard pocket measurements so they'll look well balanced on the garment for each size. Write down the measurement that matches your project. I've prepared diagrams for three different styles below the video. The granny square styles are a little more restrictive when it comes to sizing because you can't make half a round. So if your pocket needs to measure less than 4 ", I suggest choosing the third option, which gives you much more flexibility. It's made with rows of regular double crochet that you can easily adjust both in width and height. All the styles will finish with a row of alternating front and back post half double crochet, just like the Cardigan edging. I'll make the first style with you, a granny square with a slightly tighter look. There are two differences compared to what you used to with granny hexagons. First, we won't turn after each round. We'll always work on the same side. Then we'll reduce the space between the shells by not making a chain between them along the sides and making just one chain in the corners. This will make the holes less noticeable. Start with a magic ring or the method of your choice, then chain four. Work the sequence of three double crochet into the ring, Chain one, three times. Finally, make two double crochet into the ring. Join with a slip stitch into the chain four space. So three of those four starting chains will replace your last double crochet. And don't turn. Round two will once again be read counterclockwise. Change four, then make one shell of three double crochet in the same space. We won't make a chain between the two. Go directly to the next corner and make two shells of three double crochet separated by just one chain. Repeat this two more times. I'll meet you at the last corner. In the corner where you joined your first round, make two double crochet. Join with a slip stitch into the starting chain four space. For round three, once again, don't turn. Chain four, then make one shell of three double crochet in the same space. Then in the next space, make three double crochet. Continue like this following the diagram all the way around. Make two shells of three double crochet separated by just one chain in the corners and one shell of three double crochet in the side spaces. I'll leave the diagram here. I'll meet you at the end. At the end, make two double crochet in the chain four space from the previous round. Then finish with a slip stitch into the chain four space from the current round. Measure to see if you're happy with it. If not, add as many rounds as needed to reach your measurement. It will always be the same principle and the same way of starting and ending the rounds. Finish with a row of alternating front and back post half double crochet along the top edge of the packet. Chain two. Then make a front post half double crochet around the next double crochet. Then a back post, half double crochet around the next one, and continue like this, alternating them across the top of the granny square. At the end, make one regular half double crochet in the next corner. And that's it. Your little pocket is done. If you're happy with it, cut the yarn needle leaving a long tail and fast enough. You can make a second authentical one. If you haven't already, weave in all the cardigans yarn ends before sewing on the pockets. Then, no matter which pocket style you choose, here's how to sew them onto the cardigan. First, position them and secure them with stitch markers or pins. So they are symmetrical on both sides. You can use the lines created by the rows as a guide. To make sure both buckets are positioned the same way, you can either eyeball it by plasing them on the same rows and stitches on the opposite side or measure from the edges. Then we'll sew them on using a whip stitch. I'll show you how. Insert your needle into a stitch or through some strands of a stitch on the card again. Then bring it out along the side of the pocket, wrapping around like this to secure it well. We'll work around the edge of the pocket. There are no exact rules as long as you keep the seam straight and the pocket stays flat without being pulled. I'll leave the video as a reference. Go slowly and gently. Oh. Step sewing, of course, to leave the top of the pocket open. Weaving the yarn ends as usual. Do the same thing with the second pocket. Congratulations. You finished the final project of the course. This one was my personal favorite. Original, quick to make, and 100% customizable. In the next videos, you'll learn more tips on how to care for your new garments. 39. Explore the Possibilities : Now that you've mastered the granny hexagon technique, you can customize it to create a style that feels like you by playing with the stitches, colors, and propulsions. For example, if you'd like a longer cardigan, you would add rose to the bottom section. But if you'd like to make it into a dress, keep in mind that you'll need to base it on your hip circumference. For a T shirt, the sleeve length would be the priority. So you would stop your hexagons based on that measurement and add rolls to the other sides of the hexagon. And for a round neck line, you would add the usual back section and make one in the front as well, but slightly lower to leave room for the neck. If you'd like a sweater with a V-neck on both sides, you would leave the back section out of your calculations and join the two hexagons directly, leaving an opening on each side. One style I've seen often that looks really nice is replacing the back section with granny squares of your choice. Just make sure the combined squares, once joined, match the length of one side of your hexagon so everything lines up properly when you assemble it. Which such a simple shape, there really is a world of possibilities. I hope you'll have lots of fun experimenting with this technique. 40. Garments Care: In general, it's recommended to wash your garments by hand in cold water with a mild detergent. If you use a washing machine, choose a delicate cycle and ideally use a laundry bag to protect your garment. There are special detergents made for wool because it's more likely to shrink or fill. One of the most popular is eucalin which doesn't require rinsing. You'll sometimes also find care instructions on the urine label. Avoid ringing your garment to remove the water. Gently press it and roll it in a towel to remove the excess water. For drying, this is very important. Don't put anything in the dryer. Even if you use acrylic or the label says it's okay, just to be safe. Especially with animal fibers, you could end up with a child sized sweater. Instead, lay it flat to dry so the garment keeps it shape. If you blocked your garment, keep in mind that washing can slightly change its shape, so you can simply reshape it while it's drying. In short, you've spent several hours crocheting your garment, and we want it to stay beautiful for a long time. So be gentle with its care, delicate washing and laying flat to dry. And if the fibers start to peel, a fabric shaver can remove them and give your garment a clean, fresh look again. It's a quick way to keep it looking good longer. Just be careful not to press too hard so you don't damage or cuck the stitches. Avoid textured stitches and always test a small area before doing the entire garment. Now, let's go over the concept of blcking. 41. Blocking: Blocking is never required, but it can improve the drape and even out the stitches depending on the type of yarn. With very thick yarn, it doesn't really change the result. It's especially useful for fine to worsted weight yarns. It also tends to make the garment slightly larger. If you're planning to block your project, it's best to make a blocked swatch so you can rely on the correct measurements. There are two main ways to block your project. The first is wet blocking. You can either soak your project or simply dampen it. Then remove the excess water by rolling it in a towel and lay it flat. You can use a blocking mat with pins, but if you don't have one, a towel works perfectly well. The second option is thin blocking. Using an iron or a garment steamer, apply steam above your project without touching the urn directly. Then shape your garment as desired and let it cool. Here are the benefits of blocking for different types of fibers. For plant fibers like cotton, linen or bamboo, it helps flatten and even out the stitches while improving the drape slightly. For animal fibers, blocking is the most effective. In addition to evening out the stitches and improving the drape, the fibers will hold the shape you give them. For synthetic fibers, blocking is often less necessary, but it can help relax the stitches slightly and soften the fabric. And if you use team, do it gently without touching the yarn directly to avoid melting it. In any case, remember that your garment already looks great as it is, whether you blocking it or not. Join me in the next video to learn why sweatching is useful. 42. The Swatch: The word swatch scares a lot of people, but for some projects, it can save you a lot of headaches and give you confidence that your project will turn out well. What I'm going to show you here is a basic method. It's a great starting point for estimating your measurements and yarn quantities. But there is one important thing to keep in mind. Crochet isn't a fixed fabric, so your project can stretch with the weight of the yarn or tighten up depending on your tension at the time. Even with good calculations, it will never be accurate to the millimeter, and that's normal. In general, a swatch is usually a four by four inch or ten by ten centimeter square made using the main stitch of your project to help you determine how many stitches and rows fit within 4 ". But I recommend making it a little larger. This prevents the edges from affecting your measurements. You could even use a small frame to measure a well centered area. And if you plan to block your project, block your swatch before measuring it too. When following a pattern, the swatch will help you determine if you have the right materials and tension to achieve the same result. Here is a small chart showing you what to do in both situations. If your swatch is smaller or larger than the suggested size. If you want to create a project on your own and estimate how much yarn you'll need, your swatch will be your reference point. Calculate the area of your swatch by multiplying the measurements on both sides, then weight it. Then estimate the area of your garment. I've included a simple formula below the video in case you ever need it. Then use a proportion to estimate how much the sweater will weigh. You'll then know approximately how many skins to buy for your project. In short, your swatch can become your friend and save you time in the end. It reduces the risk but doesn't eliminate it. It's up to you to decide when it will be useful. Now let's go over some practical tips to make your crusher sessions more enjoyable. 43. Helpful Tips : To join yarn from a new skin, besides joining it like a color change, you can also use a magic not to avoid having to weave in a bunch of ends at the end. I taught you this in the beginner course, but here's how to do it for those who aren't familiar with this technique. Simply tie a knot around each strand using the opposite strand. Make sure to tighten them really well, especially with Super Bulky yarn. Then pull on the strands to bring the nuts together. And trim the s. Finally, check that it's secure. The small nut will be hidden inside your garment. If you're using a yarn that catches easily and is very difficult to unravel when you notice a mistake a little later, when you feel resistance and the yarn gets stuck, use a needle and pull on both loops of the previous stitch. You can pull firmly. The yarn should unravel more easily without breaking. If you're working with cotton or very thin yarn, the skin on the finger that controls your tension can become irritated. An inexpensive trick is to put on a bandage, and you won't end up with marks or irritation. If you feel like crocheting for hours, here are a few exercises and tips to help prevent injuries and stay comfortable. Open and close your hands about ten times. Then gently stretch your fingers backward and forward. Roll your shoulders and tilt your head from side to side. Remember to open your chest and keep your shoulders back while crocheting. If possible, keep your elbows supported, your shoulders relaxed, and your project from sitting too low. Take regular breaks, move your hands and wrist, and make sure you're sitting comfortably. It really makes a difference in preventing pain related to your crochet sessions. 44. Final Words: I hope you enjoyed the project I shared with you and that you feel more confident creating your own garments. I can't wait to see what you've made. Feel free to share your creations with me by email or on my social media. I see you soon to explore more ways to build crochet garments. Au revoir