Learn To Create 3D Models For Sale

1. Intro: Selling Fred models is a great source of passive income. That can earn you a lot. But many freedi artists quit this idea because they get tired of dealing with refunds or simply don't know how to promote their models. However, that's probably not you. Because you found this course, designed to help you avoid these mistakes that stop most for the artist and learn step by step how to create freed models like a professional. Even if you're opening freed software for the very first time. The best part, you don't need to pay for anything except your own decision to start. Blender is here. This course is also here. The only thing standing between you and your first sale is you. A 2. Modeling: As always, we will start our art work with modeling. And in this lesson, we will learn how to create a freed model from scratch that you can sell later. And along the way, we will learn why references are so important, how to create clean topology and understand the difference between low and high poly fred models and how to create them. So let's start. Let's open our Blender and create a new project. Also, let's follow the tradition and delete the default cube. Also, for convenience, you can see which buttons I press to repeat if you get confused. Let's go to the frontal view by pressing num three. And now let's import our references. Just press Shift plus A image reference, and select the references found into description. And move it here by person G. Let's also import all of them, and references are very important in creating models because the more references you have from different angles, the more detailed and more realistic you can make your free D model and not waste time and figure out how the product looks from another angle. Also, if you really want to be a professional and create a professional free D model, in addition to references, you need size reference. And I know that many neighbors in the world use a plugins or a separate program to display references, but as for me inside the Blender, it is much more convenient to do. So after we have imported all the references and put them in place, let's select them all and move along the X axis by pressing G and then X, so that they don't interfere when we model. Alright, let's start creating actual art. Let's create a cube and look closely at our reference. As you can see, this side has 80 centimeters and this one has 40 centimeters. So how to give this cube these dimensions? It's very easy. If you press N, this menu will pop up, and in here, you can see dimensions part. And you can just type the exact size. For example, 80 centimeters for greek axis. And 44 x axis. Scale this cupon Z axis, press in S plus Z. And since we don't have the exact information on height on the specific part, let's import Fred reference from the front, which will help us further in creating this free model. Also important part when you scale the object, remember to apply scale by pressing Control plus A because if we don't do that, it might cause us problems later. Right now, let's go into Edit mode and press two to be able to select edges, and we shift select all these edges. And then press Control plus B to bevel it and use mouse wheel to add more geometry. It'll make it more realistic. M Now, let's figure out one more very important thing topology. As you can see, this phase on the top has more than four vertices, and this is bad because when we will be using modifiers or applying textures, we might face problems. And a lot of clients or potential buyers who are going to see this kind of topology in your free model would not buy it. Good topology should look like grid when one phase has four vertices. That's why we need to delay this phase. First pressing three to be able to select faces, then selecting it and pressing X faces. Afterwards, select this H and then just press F a couple of times until it connects all the faces together. The same thing we need to do on the other side. Okay. Now when we have created the top of this table, let's create the bottom and to make it as realistic as possible, let's again create a cube. And here we need to give it dimensions of this dresser. Now we need to align this cube to the top of the table. We could do this manually. Or we could go here and here select faces. And this will allow us to magnet to the faces of other objects if we press Control. I use this method oftentimes when I need to measure exact distance between objects. We did the hard part. The easy part is to select the top, go to the edit mode, press A to select everything, and just press Shift plus D to duplicate it and move it on the axis and align it with control to the bottom of the cube. Alright, let's create the doors. Slack the cube and scale it on different axis to the size of one wooden plank, like in the reference. Let's scale it on the Z axis a little bit on X and on grok. Like that. Also, personally, I don't want to just copy when I create free models. I like to create something unique, and this time is no exception. I want to create doors on the center like on this reference. And for that, we need to make a few adjustments. Let's this object, go to the edit mode, go to the top by pressing number seven on your keypad and turn on the X ray right here. This will allow us to see through the objects and select the all vertices on the way. And here I just made this a little bit wider. Now let's finally create those doors. As you can see this door consist from multiple vote planks, right? And we have only one. And to increase the number of objects or planks, will help the array modifier. We need to go here to the modifiers, at modifier, and we need to type array. All right. And here we can increase the count of objects. And also, we can select the distance between the objects in different axes. Let's increase it a little bit because they are not that far away from each other. Let's also add another modifier. And this will be a curve modifier. Curve will be our path that our doors will follow and open. To create the curve with the right shape, we just need to select this object. Go to the edit mode, press two to select edges, and with IT held down, we need to select those edges. And then we need to press Shift plus D to duplicate it, and then we need to press B selection. And by doing that, we will make those edges a separate object. But this is still mesh and to convert it to CRF while it's selected, press right mouse button, convert and Curve. Let's go back to the doors and in this modifier, select our curve as a curve object. As you can see, it's facing the wrong direction, so in modifier, just change the axis, and you can also increase the count and distance between the objects if you need. Also, if you try to move door on the x axis, you will see that it's following the curve. The only thing that's left is to move it a little inside to make it more realistic. And in my case, I need to rotate the whole thing in edit mode on the nine degrees, pressing R plus Z 19. Here's what we've got so far. Okay, one door is created, we need to create another one. Let's just duplicate this one and move it along the X axis. So they look like they would in real life. Also, I think I have too many wooden planks in one door, so I will make 50 planks in each by decreasing count in the array modifier. So our doors are created. Now let's figure out what's the difference between low poly and high poly freed Modeling and what they are for. Let's start with low poly. If we want to make our free model low poly, we most often use the bubble modifier to smooth our sharp corners. In any case, it is desirable to smooth the corners because then the free model will not look realistic. And in this modifier, we can change how much to round the edges by changing the amount. It usually needs to be set to a fairly small number. And we can also add segments. That is, we will change how smooth the edges will be. As you can see, it looks like graphic from 2000, so we need to do something else to smooth everything out even more. We need to right click and Shade Smooth. You can also select shades move by angle, but as for me, the best option would be to select shades move and then add another modifier called weighted normals. Let's remove the smooth by angle because it ruins everything and instead shade it smooth. And then we'll get this jam. So why create low poly free models? Low poly models are typically used for games because they are easier to optimize due to their low CPU load. So now let's figure out what high poly models are, what they are built with, and why they are needed. Let me change everything as it was, delete all modifiers, and let me show you. If low poly models use bubbles, then high polymodels use subdivision surfaces. Let's audit, and I know that sounds and looks scary, but that's because subdivision modifier requires support edges, meaning more geometry. Let's create that. Go to the edit mode, press Control plus R and drag it to the places where we want a sharper angle. The closer we move the support edges to the edge, and the more we add, the sharper the angle will be. Usually, just two support edges per corner is enough. And it's definitely worth smoothing out objects with shading smooer by right clicking. You can also make the angle even smoother by increasing this value. But I don't recommend getting to carry it away with this as it can cause problems with Blender. So if low poly is used for games, then why do we need high polymodelsF literally everything except for games. High poly models are most often used where maximum realism is needed, whether it's interior design, product advertising or creating projects for medical purposes. High poly models are required everywhere. To decide whether to create a low poly or high poly model, you should first consider what the model will be used for and where it's most likely to be used. For example, this nightstand or dresser we created will most likely be used for interior design. So we'll do a slightly mix of low poly and high poly to maintain realism without blowing up the virus computer. For example, for the doors, I would use a bubble because it simply save us time and polygon count, and we will get roughly the same result. And I don't want to waste your time, so let me show you why combining high poly and low polygeometry in our Fred model is a better approach. On the left side, you can see the doors made with a subdivision modifier and loop cut. While on the right side, there is a low polymodal using a bubble modifier. As you can see, the visual difference between them is very small. However, there is a big butt. The high poly version has around seven K vertices for a single door. While the low polymodal has less than one K of vertices. That's a huge difference. If we can create a Fredy model with a lower polygon count without losing visual quality, it's definitely the smarter choice. So let's do it. 3. Modeling Part 2: And let me show you a trick. Let's select one door, and then lastly, selack the door with a bubble. Then press Control plus L. Copy modifiers, to avoid adding modifier and messing with the settings on the other door. We'll simply copy everything. Also, I noticed that I didn't add the support edges at the bottom part. And since I made such a mistake, I can't help but show you one more trick. We can just create a loop cat, then press control plus B and carefully distribute the loop cats evenly. This will be more accurate and precise than doing it manually. And that the sweet spot we've created so far. Let's make it even sweeter by adding legs. To do this, simply select simply press Shift plus A and create a cylinder. Here in the left part of the screen, we have a menu for setting up this cylinder. You can simply increase the number of vertices to 64 towards subdivision or decrease it if you want to make a low polymodal. An since we already know how to do things, creating the won't be a problem for us. Simply scale it by pressing and move along the reference image to the real life location. Then expand them along the Z axis and in edit mode, we can simply select this face at the bottom, and just scale it. And finally, move the legs as close to the table as possible using either the X ray or snapping tool. And finally, in the icing on the cake, we'll add purple modifier. Don't forget to apply the size by pressing Control plus A. Let's move on. Let's move it a little to the right. And to avoid duplicate it, we can make fin smarter by adding a mirror modifier. Select the bottom part as object to mirror and select the X and egrec axis in our case. Let's also save our progress by pressing Control plus. You can do that very often because it's very important. If you want save your project, it will be disaster. I We also have a small problem. Our doors look low poly on the curve, which doesn't look very good for high poly model. Adding subdivision to the curve won't solve the problem because curves don't work as objects. To solve this problem and smooth the curve, we need to select it. Go to Edit mode, select everything, right click, and then sets play time to norbs. And now it looks as smooth as a baby's butt. Nevertheless, here's what we've got so far. Okay. Now let's create the inside of this dresser. Let's set this object, go to Edit mode. We could select this phase and duplicate it by pressing Shift plus D. So right click P selection to make it a separate object and then scale it slightly. Be sure to right click Set origin to geometry so we can more easily edit in the future. And then in edit mode, we need to select everything, press E, and extrude it on the Z axis. I probably took the hard way. You could just simply create a cube and scale it into the same object. As usual, I don't look for easy ways, as you can see. Here's what we've got so far. Let's duplicate this wall and rotate it 90 degrees by pressing, and 90. And using Snap tool, attach it to the object by pressing Control. Also in edit mode, all that's left is to select this face and move it on the x axis. Just like that. Okay. Now we're just finishing up. Let's attach this wall to the edge of this ones in Snap two. For Snap two, let's select vortices, to be able to attach to the nearest vortices. As you can see, it did its job perfectly. All that's left is to add mirror modifier, sack this wall as a mirror object and choose the correct axis. You can move this space a little further to create space for the doors to open. That probably would be right step because it will prevent object from overlapping. In my case, I want to put shelves along the edges, so I'll move this fall a little closer to the center. I It would be a shame if we put a chest of drawers with beautiful shelves inside but couldn't open the doors. So let's create door handles. As usual, let's create a cube, scale it down, and I think we can make some pretty simple handles. Just scale it down on the X axis and egreg axis and scale it along the Z axis. Let's also attach it to the door, using snapping tool again, I would simply select these edges and scale them along the axis. You can also add a bevel modifier, but you can let your imagination run wild and make handles and drawer of different shapes. Don't be shy right now. The main goal is to learn how to create different objects, not just a dresser, unless you want to be a dresser or pro fred artist, then no problem. And when you're finished and a door you handle, you can duplicate it on another door. And here's a catch. Normally, I'd simply select this handle, and then the door itself with shift held down, then press Control plus P. Keep object transform to make the handle follow the door whenever it moves. But since our door is bound to curve and follows it, we need to do things a little differently. We need to join the handle and the door into a single object. First, we need to apply the array modifier. Then I will unbind the handle from the door by pressing plus P, clear and keep transformation. Then select the handle, next select the door with present shift, and then press Control plus J to join these two objects into one. Now all that's left is to select this door, go to the edit mode, and then select the handle, we just attached. You can use X ray. But the key is not to select any other vertices on board, just the handle. In my case, I need to rotate at 90 degrees and now simply move it to the board using the snapping tool. Let's see what we've got. And I move it to the end of the door. So let's go to the edit mode again and fix it by simply move it to the other end of the door. Let's see what we've got. As you can see, we got it right this time. Now, let's do the same for the other handle. Modeling is a process where you and I will encounter mistakes, just like in life. So the key is to never give up and keep a cool head. In the end, you will reap the rewards of your labor. All right. And when you're done with the other door, be sure to save the project. I generally recommend saving it frequently, preferably after each significant change. To finish the project, all that's left is to create the shelves and add one secret trick that everyone probably knows about, but not everyone uses. First, let's make the shelves. 4. Details: All right, let's continue, guys. Let's create shelves and we can create shelves for our dresser in two ways. Either creating a new object and trying to repeat the same shape and angles of the corner, or it could be smart and select the bottom part, go to the edit mode, and in here, select these angles the shift and It held down. This combination will help us to select all edges. Next, we can duplicate them and then press B selection and make them a separate object. Now, we don't need the entire object, only a part of it. So we need to go into the edit mode. And use X ray to select all of these vertices. Press one to select vertices, then press X vertices and just delete them. Alright, it looks good. Also, we need to slack this edge at the end and extrude it until it reaches this wall. And this one as well. That would be the end of our shelf. It should look something like this. As you might have guessed, the next step would be filling this object. You could also select these vertices and lead them to simply fix the topology. So just select those three edges, press F to create a phase out of them, and next as always, press F a couple of times. Alright. This is how it looks so far. I think I need to make it smaller because it will overlap with the door. I move this edge to the end. Oops, I mess the bottom. Here we go. Now let's add a thickness to the shelf and simply select everything in edit mode and extrude it on the axis. So to avoid having to worry about making these shelves a bunch of times, just add an array modifier. You can play around with a Z axis distance and the number of shelves as desired. I will make two of them, and I think this distance will look good. However, you can adjust it as you wish. Also, let's add a bit of smoothness and a subdivision modifier. And of course, don't forget about support edges, K loop cuts. As you can see, modeling is a simple thing. You just need to repeat the shape of the object using simple meshes like cube, cylinder, sphere, et cetera, and also understand how different tool works, which we are doing in this course. All right. Here we go. The shelves are created. However, if you look closer, in my case, the door overlaps with the shelves, and it's an opportunity to learn a new tool. First, let's select this face and turn on the proportional editing. With the help of which we can impact other faces and vertices that are located around the selected one while moving, rotating, or scaling. In my case, I just need to move it a little on the side. And also important part, you can adjust the radius or strength of proportional editing by rotating the mouse wheel. I encourage you to try to use this tool, even if you don't have such a problem with overlapping as me, because in the future, you'll definitely thank yourself that you learned how to use this tool. Alright, now that the problem is solved, it looks amazing. What is left to do is to add a mirror modifier. You probably already know why to create the shells for the other side of the dresser. If you guessed it right, you're amazing. For the mirror object, it is better to select this one or the bottom part and pick the right axis. Okay, we also need to create the middle shelves. It's very basic and easy, like and duplicate this wall, then rotate it using the snapping tool or just by moving the faces. Give it the right size. I'm speeding this part up because we already did this dozens of times, and I don't want to waste your time on that again. We also need to create a door, and here is exactly the same process as with shelves. Duplicate the object, move it, and scale it to the right size. And since it has two doors, we need to separate them in half by pressing Control plus R in edit mode. Let's focus on the doors by pressing slash and to separate them, we need to select this phase and then press the combination of Control and plus keyboards button. It will allow us to select paces that are located next to the selected one. Then as always press P selection. Now we have two doors instead of one, but there is a problem. There is no phase on the side, so we need to select these angles, press F to fill them. The same goes for this door. Alright, it looks like fire, but it's missing something and it's a bubble modifier. So let's add that for the left. And also, don't forget about shading it smooth and adding weighted normal for the best moving result, and then for the right doors. And the last object that is missing in our masterpiece is door handles. To create them, as always, we need to start with a simple object like a cube, for example. I think you get the pattern, right? Create a simple object, scale, rotate, and use different tools to create something more complicated. I, for example, added loop cuts, then beveled them with Control plus B and then used these faces to extend the handles. Also with the help of the snapping tool, I attached the handle to the actual door. And for realism, I added the bevel modifier. I also shaded it smooth, and here it is. To make the handle for the other side, you probably already know what to do. Add the mirror modifier, and in this case, because we added multiple modifiers before, it's better to move the mirror modifier up because if we leave it at the end of the list, it might not work as well as we want it too. Let's like the mirror object, and we need to apply the mirror modifier. But now it's one object. So to separate this object, go to the edit mode, then select any face on this handle and press L. B selection. By pressing L, you can select all the faces in one object, even in edit mode, if it's not connected to the other one with the faces or otic. To attach these handles to the door, we need to select the handle, then the door while holding Shift, press Control plus P object Keep transform. Okay, but what about rotating the door? If you rotate the door, now it won't look very realistic. So to fix this, need to change the origin location in this object. To do this, go to the Edit mode and select vertices on the side where the hinges would have been in real life. Then press Shift plus S and select the cursor to select it. Then right click and set origin freed Cursor. If we rotate it now, we can see that everything works perfectly. Also, we need to do the same on the second. Again, select Ws Shift plus S, select the cursor to selected. Then right click and set origin Fred Cursor. Now let's return the Fred cursor to the center to do the express Shift plus a, Cursor to world origin. Our Fred model seems ready, but in reality, something is missing. It's something very important that buyers usually pay close attention when deciding whether to buy this freed model for my purpose or not. The details. If we're lazy, it's unlikely to pay off. After all, even if you're creating a model for games, you need to put in the effort. Game creators need more realistic models, not just dummy fred models. So let's learn how to add details to pretty models and how to create complex models from references. Let's get started. For this dressroom model to be fully realistic, it's missing hinges that help open the doors and hold them in place. Usually, if you look at the finished Fred model, you will notice a couple of missing details. They are usually very small like our hinges, but they are incredibly important. So if you are making any freed model, take your time and look at the references again. So to create our hingers, let's first export the references and focus on it. And in the previous lesson, we learned how to create fairly simple object, but how do we create complex one? To begin as always, we need to create a simple object. In our case, a cube because the object is square. Let's scale it down and slightly adjust the reference so it matches the cube. Let's start a simple and simply straight the cube along the grec axis. You can also do this in edit mode by selecting this phase on the one side and move it along the Egrek axis. For convenience, you can turn on Xray and move this so they match the reference. Let's also scale on the x axis a bit so the dimensions match real life. Now, the fun part to create all the bulges for the bolts and other details, we need loop cats. We need to create them exactly according to the reference. Now we can simply press three sideC faces and just delete them by pressing X faces. Here's what it looks like right now, but there is a lot of detail to add. There's also a cylinder inside this loop, so let's create it. Rotate it. Scale it down and also place it inside and stretch it on egre axis. Just like this. If you notice this hole has an extension to it. So now let's these corners with lt, extrude them on the X axis a bit. And then press E again and S to extrude inward. Let's do the same on the other side. Now to create wings on this hinge, we again need to add a loop cut this time right here. So we have some geometry to work with to be able to create these wings. Also, we need to create another loop cut here and make it match the reference. Now, the simple part is just like this face and extrude them up. And the same thing we need to do on the bottom part. And this way, we created wings. Remember that loop cuts are an amazing tool when we need to add geometry or create a complex object like this. However, too many loop cuts could be bad, especially if we want to use subdivision surface later because it can add too much excess geometry. To create the holes in the wing, we still need to add a loop cut here and bavi it. However, next, we can select these faces, press I, and in that way, we will insert them, creating geometry only on the wings and not on the whole object. To save us time and not repeat everything again, on the other side, we can use logic and add a mirror modifier. But first, we need to add loop cut in the middle. Let's do that. And now we can turn on the X ray to see through the object and select all the bottom vertices that are below the loop cuts we've created. Make sure there are no vertices left below because it will cause geometry problems where the vertices will get stuck together. All right. In mirror, we need to choose a Z axis, and also the important thing is to check the clipping box. Without clipping, the upper part and the bottom part will just overlap, and clipping is what will join them into one. If these two sides are far apart, just select everything and move on the Z axis until they are joined together. Also, if you still have access geometry like I do, where these two edges are so close that they are about to connect, we need to delete it. Okay, let's move on and extrude those faces. Also on the other side, we need to insert the faces as well with the Ike. And by using Xray, we will be able to make it the same size as on the other side of the wing and also delete them by pressing X faces. Let's delete those faces, and I made a mistake here Btuing these faces, so I'll delete them and instead select this edge, then we shift select the opposite to edge and press F to join them. And then the classical move is to select the side edge and press F a couple of times to create this To create this indentation, we need to do the same thing as earlier. Just add loop cuts and extrude this face. Alright, we almost finish this part of the hinge and all that's left is to create this part that goes down and it couldn't be easier, just like these faces, then extrude them. Move them on the x axis, and the last step is to scale it, and here we go. It's ready. Now let's move on and create another part, which will be very interesting to do. For this, we need to create a circle, rotate it, and scale it to the size of the reference like that. And in edit mode, if we press F, we'll be able to fill the circle, which will help us add more geometry on it. And to actually add it, we need to press I to insert it because on the circle, we can't add loop cuts without for inserting it. Let's also smartly delete all vertices up to the middle and add a mirror modifier. Don't forget to check the clipping bags to glue these two parts, and now the fun part. We just need to repeat the shape of the inside of the object by moving these vertices along the reference image. To create a win, as you probably have guessed, we need to select these edges and extrude them up. And to make them flat, we need to press Shift plus the axis you want to make them flat, in our case, Z and then press zero. But as you can see, it's flat. So let's fix that and extrude everything on the x axis. To finish this object, we need to create this hole, and this we can do just by selecting these edges and extruding them on the x axis. And all that's left is to fill it. Let's first connect these two edges. And now the interesting part. If you press F a couple of times like we did before, this topology will look very bad because it's not in the form of a grid and a lot of faces are not connected. Instead, what we need to do in situations like this and in object like this is to use math. Don't worry, you don't have to have a PhD for this, counting to ten or 12 will be enough. It seems like these edges are safe to connect, so let's do that. Now what we need to do is to count how many vertices are not connected. In my case, it's 11 vertices. And now we need to create enough loop cuts to also have 11 vertices on the bottom. So we need to create nine loop cuts. Why nine instead of 11, you might ask, it's because we already have two vertices here, and together, there would be 11 vertices. Alright, let's connect them. At first, we have to select these three edges with shift and fill it. Oops, I selected the wrong ones, and, um, And after we connect the first free edges, we can use our familiar tactic. Alright, the hinges are created. What is missing is a touch of realism and smoothness. So let's add a subdivision modifier or the bevel modifier at your choice. And for subdivision, we as always need to add loop cuts. At the places we want sharper corners. I will speed up the process for you where I created the loop cuts, but the rule is simple. Create loop cats at those places where you want sharper corners. And the more loop cuts you add near the corner and the closer they are, the sharper this corner will be. Also, let's do the same process with this part of the hinge. And a. Now, a very interesting part is ahead of us. We need to play the hinge into the right place, meaning on the door and also making it move with the door like in real life. I'll move it here for now, so it's completely visible and also save the project. Again and again, I will repeat to save it because the consequences of not saving it could be drastic. You also don't want to create the mess with those hinges. That's why we need to create a new collection because there will be more of them later. All right. For convenience, let's open the door by rotating it on 90 degrees on the Z axis, and also we could make the work easier and select hingers and doorway shift and focus on them by pressing slash. Great. Now we just need to select the hinge and rotate it and place it between the door and the wall in the dresser, like in real life. Let's turn off the mirror for the wall for a minute and continue. We can use the snapping tool or we can do it manually. I would recommend you use snapping tool to snap them to the door and then manually move it with more accuracy if needed. And also, in my case, this part can be moved a little bit further, but you can just adapt to your own situation. I also selected these faces on the other part of the hinge and moved it closer to the other part. Now, let's make these hinges work. Slack this part, and then the shift, select the door, press Control plus P, Oject keep transform. And this part we need to snap to this wall. As you can see, it works great as expected. Now, let me explain how it works. When you press Control Plus, B, and choose Object Kip transformer, you make the first object you selected, follow the second one, you selected. And the advantage of this method is that you can move the first object however you want. Meanwhile, when we join it with Control Plus, J, it becomes one object, and you can't really change it fast or move it fast. Alright, let me give you a second to find something that is missing here. If you set bolt, you're dam right. And to add them, we need to go to edit preferences, make sure you click on the addon stop, and here we need to find the bolt factory addon. It will allow you to create bolts of various shapes or sizes. However, if you don't have this add on in the list, you can download it from the official website. Just click Get on addon and it will install in a few seconds. Now if you press Shift plus, A, a new bolt tab will appear. If we click on it, we'll see this bolt. But we can touch it because we won't be able to change it afterwards. That is, we can't move it or focus on it after we've created it. So let's organize everything a bit so we can see this bolt. Let's set the references and play them in the collection. To hide the references, we just need to click on the icon next to the collection with references. And also, let's select all the objects you don't need right now. Let's hide them by pressing H, leaving only the doors and hinges, and now you can create a different type of bolts. You can view them and customize them however you like in this menu. You can take your time. And once you've created the bolt of your dreams, you simply need to scale it and move it to the place where it belongs. When you're done with this bolt, just duplicate and place it on the next spot. We need to repeat this process until all bolts are in their own place and looks like on the reference. All right, we need to slack these bolts and join them with Control plus J and connect them to hinders with Control plus B shortcut. Actually, now, my mistake. We need to separate these bolts and connect them to this other part because they are located on the other side and will move differently. And viola. And you might say I make a lot of mistakes and then correcting them myself. But that's exactly how freedi models are created, and that's exactly how you learn by solving problems. I want you to learn as much as possible and even make mistakes to gain experience in this video and in this course, rather than make mistake, don't know how to fix it, and don't know who to reach out to. Okay, all that's left is to select hingers and bolts and duplicate them and play them somewhere here. Now, let's hide all the objects by pressing ID plus H, open another door, and this time, we need to turn on the mirror modifier on this fall. And now we just need to duplicate those hinges, rotate them 180 degrees and simply place them on the other door. When we duplicate, we copy all the objects information, including the binding. So right now the hinge is bound to another door, and we need to fix that just to press out BP, keep and clear transformation. And we can bind this hinge to this door to the right door and the bolls to the hinge without any hesitation. And when you're done, simply duplicate the hinders and move them down. And use the Xray again to line everything perfectly. I And now I want to teach you a very important thing order. You have no idea how important it is to place objects in collections. If you have a ton of objects, it can be very difficult to find any of them, and you simply waste a lot of time on it. To do this, let's select the hinges on the door and the door itself and create a collection for each door. And if you have objects left that you didn't select, when you played them into collection, you can simply select this Object, press M and play them into desired collection. And let's also create a collection for these doors, selecting the core too. And all that remains for us is these objects, and we can simply select them and create a collection for them. Alright, we learned how to create high quality freed models from scratch, and we can even sell it right now for a couple of bucks or we can go further and increase the value of this freed model and sell it for three times more by adding textures and how to do that properly, you will find out in the next lesson. 5. Texturing: And Texturing. Let's do magic and at color store free model. And in this lesson, you will learn what is UV Unwrapping how to apply textures. And as a cherry on the top, you will learn how to change textures to your liking without expensive software. Let's get started. But first, we need to go to the edit preferences, and in the Shi bar, we need to look for node Wrangler. And enable it. This adding will make our life easier while Texturing and I later will show you how. Before applying textures, we need to unwrap each object and market seams. Some freedi arists dislike this part or would say that it is boring and monotonous, but in reality, enwrapin is simply adding seams or joints to make the freedimdel look realistic. Let me show you how it's done. Think of a wooden commode as being built from several wooden boards. When creating UVs Sam marks the edges where Blender can separate those surfaces and nwrapin spread them out into flat pieces so that the texture would fit correctly on each part. Okay, let me show you how we can do that on our Fred model. So for convenience, let's go to the UV editing. And in here, for the sake of example, let's like this object. This will be our wooden shelf. In here, by the way, we will create a UV map, which I will tell you later. So this is a wooden shelf. If you look at the real life example, we have different, slightly different texture in here and at the back as well. So we need to imitate those seams in the fred. To do that, we need to select all of these edges right here. So let's do that. Just click two to select edges and select them with shift and I'll press like that and also at the back. Okay, let's right click and Mark Sims. Alright. Once we've done that, we have separated our object on three parts at the front, at the end, and on the middle. The next step we need to do is to unwrap it. And to do that is quite simple. We just need to press. A, and then press drop or to be more precise drop angle based. And by doing that, we've created the UV map. But as you can see, we have this strange thing in here. It shouldn't be like that. It should be straight square. That's all because we haven't added a single seam in here. And my advice would be add it's right here underneath because if we will add the seams to all of that edges, we might get the result that not everybody will be satisfied with. So let's unwrap it, and now we have beautiful UV map. To check if we did this right, we can create a UV grid. To do that, we need to click on here, and we need to create a new texture. And here instead of plank, we need to check the UV grid. All right. Now we have the Uva grid texture, and to see that, we need to go to the material preview mode. And here, also, we need to click on the material and click on this plus icon to create the slot for material and also create a new material. In the base color, we have this dot. We need to click on that and we need to look for image texture, right here. And here we need to select the texture with the Uva grid. And here we go. This is how it looks. As we can see there is no distortions, which is good sign. Now, let me show you why I didn't add the seams to all of these edges. If we will do that and wrap, we will see that here on all of these places where we added the seams, we have a slightly different texture. So it's not continuent texture. We have the visible themes. Meanwhile, when we have marked only on this side, we have the themes that continues, and we only have one theme. So it looks more natural. And we need to do the same thing with all remaining objects, like, for example, this wooden plank, So let's mark it seems on top and on the bottom. And also, we need to mark a seam on the side as well. And the same thing we need to do on other objects. For example, here like that, and because you have mirror modifier, we don't need to do that on the other side. On the door, we need to do the same thing. Only thing I would advise you to do if you addit a subdivision modifier, you need to go to the modifiers and apply it. I already applied my subdivision modifier, but you need to just click on this triangle and apply. Click Apply because if we don't do that, we might have the stretches on the textures after breaking. And we need to do that on all the objects that we have added subdivision modifier. Strategy of adding sms remain the same even with those objects where we've applied subdivision. Generally, with this kind of objects, you can use the references and imitate themes from the real life objects. In Fred however, there are objects that don't have visible themes in real life, like metal, for example, and how to add themes on those objects, we will learn later on. For now, let's continue with this part, and in here, everything is the same. We would have to separate this object in three parts with seems like in real life. And also, don't forget to add themes in here, because as you remember, there would be a problem on the UV map if we don't do that. Also, if this line is too long, I usually add one more seam at the back. The reason why is simple to avoid textual stretching. Also, one them would be enough in this case. I just like to avoid this problem in the future. All right. When we finished with this one, remember that we have the same object on the other side. So let's quickly add seams to it. All right. Now, let's do the same with doors. But with the doors, we could have a trouble because I applied the ray modifier and adding seems to all of that planks one by one would take forever to be honest. So I have a solution. We can just enable the X ray. Let's press number seven to go to the top view and select all of these planks, except one at the end. And also, we don't need to delete the handle, so we can leave it alone and dislect it while holding control. So at the end, it should look like this. Then press X faces to delete all of planks. And we can also set the handle and press B selection because it would interfere right now. All right, we'll left one plank and we need to add an array modifier to it and also move it above the curve modifier. And here we need to change the offset to minus one, and also changed the count to 16 as it was before. Oh, sorry, 60. As you can see, we have a problem. The handle is not in the place right now, so we can fix it by just selecting it in the edit mode and moving it a little bit. So we have something going on in here. I would I would probably avoid this. I didn't want to pay attention to that, to be honest, but let's just like the handle in edit mode and move it a little bit. The other solution is that we can increase the distance between the planks. So instead of minus one in offset of the X mode, X axis, we would increase it into -1.0 something. Just enough to mark them with the handle. Y All right. Now, let's actually add seams to the door. And in here, we just need to select the top the object and the bottom of the splank. And also one edge on the side. Remember to add it at the back so it won't be visible. And we need to add seams to all of the objects. I will speed up the process for you because we did it already a couple of times and it's basically the same thing over and over again. The Alright, now the interesting part. Let's add the themes to our hinges. And as I promised before, I will show you how to add themes on the materials or the objects that don't have natural themes visible in real life. So how to understand where to put them? Well, the strategy is very simple. First, we need to look at the object and think what parts can I separate. And first that comes to mind are wings. So first, let's add the seams to separate the wings. Let's do it right here at the bottom part. Like that, Mark SM and let's do on the other wing. And here, also, actually, I think this one, this edge would be much better and easier for us to do. And also, it will be much cleaner in the UV map. So I will probably dislect those themes and probably do the same thing on the other wing. All right. The next step is to think where to add seams on the wings to avoid problems with stretching. And in our case, we have a couple of options. Either two seams line on the left on the right side or just one on the middle. The two will be more clean but in our case, unnecessary because we could add just one in the middle of the wing and kill two rabbits with one shot. As it will also mark seams on the other wing and across whole object. Alright, let's also don't forget about indentations and the places we extruded. To properly mark them, we need to select the inner and outer part of the edges and also edges between them. And basically the same thing goes with the holes in the wings. So let's do that for all indentations in our object. And here we go. This is how it looks so far. The next thing that we need to ask yourself is where in the remaining object the shortage of seams, where it could potentially be a distortion. In our case, it is in here on this part. I did. And first, I think we need to add seams here on the back because there is extrusion in this part and also because there is hole to 90 degrees angle in there, which potentially could create problems with textures. So let's select edges on this side. I'll probably start from the end with control select edges until we reach the other side. And here we go. All that's left is to add seams to another side of the hinge. As you might have guessed, we need to start from the end and mark this part. And also in here because this is the end of this part. And as always, we need to mark seams, the edges in here. I hope you understand how to properly mark seams and where to put them. You can either reduce the references from the real life object and imitate the seams from there, or if there are any seams visible on the reference, ask yourself what parts can I separate in this object. Usually they are easily noticeable because they are bordered by sharp angles. Like here, for example, then you need to ask where could be potential distortions and where can I add seems to avoid it? Don't rely on experience yet or even luck. You can use AVGrid to check if everything is good. My advice is to not limit yourself and try to unwrap and add seems to different kind of freedom models. This why you will learn, gain experience, and will unwrap objects in the future with ease. But if we return, we might face a problem. There are three more hinges to add Sims to, and doing it again will be very boring and time consuming. So instead, let me show you a trick on how to do that in seconds. First, like the hinge without Sims and then we shift like the same part, but that has marked Sims plus control plus L, and you might think that we need to click and copy V maps. By clicking on it, it wouldn't copy SIMs. Instead, we need to click on link object data, and it will copy all the data from the second object to the first, including SIMs. The only problem is that the first object moves a little inside the door, but hopefully it's easy to fix. Let's also copy the data from this part of the hinge. And for the other side, let's copy data from the upper and lower hinge at the same time by selecting them and as the last objects in the part with the seams. Let's quickly fix the problem with movements. And also copy data for another part of the hinge. And Pi we did this. We marked every object in our scene. Now with the help of this, we can create miracles. So let's add some textures. To do this, let's go to the shading top right here and select an object. Let's say the top. And if you don't have this node here, you need to create a new material for the subject. Just click on this button and you are ready. Alright, so click on this node. By the way, with this node, you can create different sorts of materials, which we will do later and also connect shaders and textures. So to add texture, we need to press Shift Control plus D and select textures from the course files. Or you can search for your own textures and simply select them. And here we go, textures added. But as you can see, things aren't looking great. I would say they are terrible. That's exactly why we addit seams to fix that. So we need to go here and choose the UV editor. Then go to the edit mode and select everything by pressing A. Press U and drop until based. As you can see, our texture looks a little bit better, but it still has some problems as the texture is way too small and rotated in the wrong direction. So to fix this, we need to go to this window. This is where UV map of an object is located. And here, select everything by pressing A and scale and rotate the whole UV map until it looks realistic. Alright, let's move on to the next part. Click here and move back to the shader editor. If you want to add a new texture for this door, for example, you can create a new material and my Blender throats. Hopefully, everything worked out. But if you don't want to add a new material and use the same material that we created for the top part, you can just select the door, then the top part was shift and press control plus L and select link materials. Now the materials is applied to the doors. All that's really left for us is to just rotate and scale the UV map. And the same thing we need to do on the other side. You can also copy the textures to all wooden objects and rotate the IV maps. For me, that's everything except legs, handles, and hinges. H Now, let me show you how to change textures without using expensive programs. Let's move these textures a bit right here, and we need to add another addon. So past plus A and search for a huge saturation value node and place it between the image texture and principle with DF nodes. Now, this is the miracle node right here. By changing the parameters, you can change the texture, color, however you like. You can even make it gray or black. I encourage you to play around with it to see how it works. Personally, I use these parameters. I set Hu to 0.505, saturation to 0.93 and value to two. Also to double the effect, I usually duplicate the Hugh saturation node and place it right here. In this one, I change the duration to 0.99 and value to 1.85. You can, of course, play around with it and see what works best for you. And now our dresser doesn't smell like Grandpa anymore and looks a little better and modern. In terms of wooden texture. Also an important message for you. If you want to use the same texture but in different colors, simply select the objects on which you want to change texture and click on this icon. And now this texture will change separately from the one on the other objects. And you can disconnect the hue nodes and connect textures directly to the principal's BSDF node or change the hue saturation parameters to add another color, for example. You can also click on the smile triangle here, and you can choose between the textures you've created. Alright, now let's create materials for the remaining object, likes like the legs, for example, and create a new material. Since our legs are metal, we'll increase the metal perimeter to one. And set roughness to 0.4 or something to mid the metal roughness. So it looks like this. Alright, what we can also do here is to change the color. I prefer to make it black. Let's also add some details, even though the dresser is new and even new things have some imperfections. So let's press Shift plus A and create a bump node. And we need to connect the normal from bump nodes to the normal in the BSDF node. Okay, then we need to create a color ramp node. Let's connect it to the height of the bump node, and we'll also need a noise texture node. And connect it to the color ramp. Now, the noise texture is responsible for the texture, as you may have guessed, and by changing the parameters in it, you will change the texture. There aren't any specific or precise parameters. Here, you can experiment and change them as you liked to achieve the texture of the bumps and scratches of your liking. I will probably leave my parameters like this for now. Now, what we need to do now, we need to take the slider on the color ramp and move it. Or to be more precise, this one. The color ramp highlights a certain part of the texture depending on what slider we move. And because of that, we get these small scratches. But they are a bit deep, and for that, we need to head to the bump node and reduce the strength in it. Basically, the bump node is what adds volume to the texture. All right. Here we go. Now we need to apply this material to all the remaining objects, AKA door handles, and hinges. As you can see, it fits there perfectly. Here we go. Only for the hinges, I will probably change the color to a more realistic one like this. And before changing, do not forget to click on this icon. Otherwise, this material that we have applied to the legs and to the door handle will also change. I think the same material could be applied to the bolts. The only object left to texture is the side shelves. So we need to pretty much do everything like we did before. So let's duplicate the material for it or we can add another one if you would like wrap it and play around with UV map. I leave the Texturing process to you. The most basic things I taught, but I do not want to take away the artistic part from you. So create as your heart desires. You can change the textures at new ones. You don't have to follow my. It's not a tutorial. It's a chorus. I do not want to follow every step that I do. I want you to create something new, something unique, because you are a human being. And you probably started learning Blender because you have some artistic talent in you. 6. Baking: This lesson, we will learn how to make textures in Blender without buying expensive software like Substance Painter and find out why the UV map is so important, what mistakes you can do while baking and why PBR textures attract and repel customers. So let's go. Now let me show you how you can connect the UV maps of all these objects into one UV Map, which will then bake. To do this, we need to click on the object and then go to the data by clicking on the screen triangle. Then simply create a new UV Map by clicking on the plus sign, and you can rename it for convenience. Then let's create another U map for this door. And it's very important to name the U maps the same because if we name them differently, we could have problems in the future. Okay, now we need to do this for all the objects. However, since we have a lot of objects, and this will be very time consuming and inconvenient, we can combine objects. For example, a door with a handle. But before combining, it's very important to check that there are no different modifiers on the object we're combining. If they contain subdivision or mirror modifiers or another modifier, just apply it. So press Control plus J. And here we need to also connect everything. Also before we bake the textures, it's important to make sure everything is in order. If we want to change the object after we baked, the texture will stretch, and we'll have to bake it again. Okay, let's also connect these shelves and volts into one object. Oh, we probably have a mirror modifier here. Okay, yeah. So we need to apply it, and let's connect it again. Yep, now everything is perfect. Let's also connect the back part into one. And we should get something like this. Now it will be easier to place the UI map on the textures. Okay, let's now connect the door hinges, simply select the bolts, then the hinges and connect them. Okay, now we can create U Maps for all connected objects. Also, let's connect the injures on one side into a cymcal object, since we won't be moving them individually and the same on the other side and creative maps for them. Finally, let's make sure all objects now have a second map with the same name. Now that a new UV map has been created on all objects, let's combine them into one. First, go to the shading and then to the UV editor. Here we need to make sure that the second U map we created is selected on all objects. This is very important. Now here on the top, we need to delete this texture and create a new one. Here, we need to enter the resolution. You can choose between two, four, eight, or even 16 K. I'll be creating an eight K texture, but I would not recommend create eight K textures for every free D model because it's a bit large. Usually go for four K textures. You can find the resolution size in Google and just copy and paste it. You can leave everything as is here or you can change the name for convenience. Now we have two ways to place everything into one texture. First way is to select all objects. Don't go to the Edit mode, also select everything by pressing A, don't press U and click on Smart TV Project. And Blender will automatically place everything into one texture. But there is a problem here, and it's a big one. You see, the more space the objects UV map takes up on the texture, the more detailed it will be. Conversely, the smaller it is, the worse it will look. If we will look at how Blender did it, the largest object in this texture are the door hinges, and all the other objects where we need detail are very small, which is exactly what we don't need. So let me show you how to do this manually and correctly. First, let's let the objects. For example, the doors, and we need to rob them again. But for now, let's move them to the side without placing them on the texture. We'll do the same thing with this object, but this time, move it to the other direction. We need to do this with all the objects. The main thing is to try to avoid placing UV maps from different objects in the same place. And here I'll probably select all the hingers and rotate them into a single UV map to make it easier to organize everything in the future. You can even use a SmartTV project for the hingers. Also, in reality, you can do this with all the objects. If we will do it separately, it doesn't really affect or makes a big difference. And now that all the objects are unfolded, the fun part begins assembly. Let's select all the objects and go to the edit mode. We need to make sure that none of the objects map or lap or intersects. And now we need to be strategic. First, we take the objects that take up the most space and are given the most attention and place them on the texture. Let's say the top part and the bottom part. Then we take another large object that requires detail and also make it large and place it next to it so that even larger and more important object fit. If you play Tetris as a kid, you will understand what to do. It's like Tetris for adults. Try to make them as close to each other as possible without touching. This is very important because it can cause baking problems. It's also possible that you place objects, but there is no room for another one. In this case, you can simply select part of this. If. The main thing is that everything is in one piece, not individual pass and simply play them in the empty spaces. You can even rotate them though, but be careful with this. Also, if there is not enough place in that of the texture, you can move it somewhere else. But it's better if all the objects from one map will be in one place. All right, we only have the legs and hinges left. They can be smaller than other objects because they don't get as much attention as let's say doors. So they can be distributed across various empty spaces. F and our texture is almost ready. All that's left is to bake it. But we need to prepare this. Like the wood material. Let's go to the shader editor, and here we'll create an image texture. In it, we need to select the image we just created. In my case, the bake texture. Now we just copy this node by pressing Control plus C and simply pasted this node into all the existing materials and texture on our dresser. Let's go to the metal material, Control plus, and also for materials and for other wood materials as well. Alright, now let's go to the Baking settings. Click on the render icon, and here we need to change the render engine to the cycles. This is very important because if it doesn't have a baking option, if we scroll down, we will have the baking option, expand it, and here we can choose which texture will bake, whether it's diffuse, normals, roughness, or any other texture. The most important one is probably the diffuse texture. Here we need to uncheck the direct and indirect options. We can basically leave everything as is and just press bake and just wait for the texture to bake. I want to warn you that this can take a long time depending on the texture resolution and your computer. So be patient about it. Now when the texture is baked, it will appear in the left corner. To save it, simply click on the icon with strips, image, and save as. You can create a separate folder for textures so you don't lose them and save them there. It's also important to make the roughness texture and the normal textures. Unlike the diffuse, you don't need to make any changes to the settings for them. And now let me show you how to apply these textures to our freely model. For this, let's delete the existing material with a wood texture and materials on the objects. In the material tab, we just need to click on minus and delete all the materials. That's pretty simple. All right, all materials are deleted. Then select any object and create a new material instead. You need to select this node and then press Shift Control plusT and select all textures we have created. If they are not important, try to change the names of the textures to diffuse, normal and roughness. If they still are not important, just create an image texture by click on the principle with DF node, then press Control plus T and then manually select the diffuse texture. You can again, click on Principle B DF, press Control plus T and export the roughness material. Then duplicate this image texture, and also in this one, select the normal texture and also connect it to normal. And also, let's connect it all to the one mapping node. Now, on the color texture, the color space should be SRGB, but on the roughness and on the normal, we need to change the color space to the non color. And if you see this, don't worry. We just need to create one more node to everything be normal. And this node is UV map node. In it, we need to select our second UV map and connect this node to mapping node in vector. And here we go. All that remains to do is to select all objects except the curve. Oh and at the last one, select the one with the texture. Then press Control plus L and ink materials. And here we go. This is fully baked eight K textures. We have created and this is the result we get in the end. Alright, this free model is almost ready, but there is a hack that will allow us to make it more attractive for clients. And if you want to know what it is, you definitely need to watch the next lesson. 7. Animation: Animation. This could really level up your free model in the eyes of potential customers with that your client can see what is your free model capable of and where it can be used. And in this lesson, you will learn basics that will allow you to do that, namely how to create keyframes. Why Graph Editor is a cheat code and how to make animation easily. So let's go. Okay, before we begin, let me show you a trick that will help make the animation process a little easier and also make the model more user friendly for the future customer or client. As you can see, if we rotate the doors, they rotate a full 360 degrees. To make them open 90 degrees, we need to add a constraint. Just click on this icon here, and here we need to limit the rotation. So let's select it. Since we rotating the doors along the Z axis, we'll select the Z axis here. We'll set the minimum to zero, and it will limit the maximum to 90 degrees, which is how the door should open. Let's test it. As you can see, it works brilliantly. Let's add a constraint for this door as well. Airfin is the same here except for one thing. The minimum should be set -90 degrees and the maximum to zero. This is because we rotating the door in the opposite direction. So the constraint also needs to be set a little differently. Now let's limit the movement of these doors. But to be honest, I personally don't always use constraints for the object that moves along a curve because sometimes that can complicate things. But for educational purposes, let's add a constraint here. And this time, we need to add a limit location. Since we're moving along the X axis, we'll also limit the movement along the X axis. And this is why I don't like using constraints on objects that move along a curve because they are not as easy to use. You have to try different values yourself, which takes a lot of time, but it can be done. As I say, nothing is impossible, and constraints are often very helpful, so it's important to know about them if you're planning to animate something for self. I'll remove the constraints for now and show you how to animate. I'll start with this door. Select it when it's closed, and press key. Yellow icon will appear on the timeline. This is the key frame. The entire animation happens because of this little guy. And if we move further along the timeline, say to frame 80, Then rotate the door 90 degrees to open it, and then press I again. We'll create an animation. Let's also create an animation for this door as well. Click here to go to the very first frame, press I, then go to the frame 80, and then open the door and press I again. If we return to the beginning and press the space bar, we'll see this miracle. We'll animate these doors in the same way. Move a little further along the timeline, create a keyframe, while selecting the door, then go to the frame 152. Let's say, move it along the X axis. You can switch to a top view by pressing seven on the numpad for convenience. And then create a keyframe again. Let's do the same for this door as well. Animation is very easy process. You just need to apply keyframe before the change, then move, rotate or scale the object, and then apply the change by adding another keyframe. And let's go to the first keyframe and after playing the animation, you can see the beautiful creation you've created. However, we can make it better. If we select these keyframes by pressing A in the timeline, then right click and choose E in and out in the e in mode, the animation will become a little smoother and softer. But if we again, right click and change the interplating mode to Bezier, the animation will become even better. And let me show you the difference between these modes. Constant is simply a before and after animation without any additional actions. Linear animation makes everything better, but it's too rigid. Well, best year is different. It moves things out and makes the animation smoother at the beginning and end. If we open this menu, we will be able to go to the graph editor. Let's expand this window like that, and here we will be able to see our two objects. And each of them can be edited here. When we created a keyframe by pressing I, Blender record changes for location, rotation, and scale at once. Even if we rotated the doors on the D axis, the graph editor will still show keyframes for all of these properties. This can make things messy and harder to read. For example, it becomes difficult to quickly identify which keyframes are controlling the Z rotation. To keep things clean and easy to work with, we should hide afin except the Z rotation channel. And here you can see our animation and keyframes, and you can edit them. But first, we need to change the pivot points by clicking on the individual centers right here. And this will allow us to edit multiple keyframes at once. I usually just select everything by pressing A and then press S and scale them up a bit. This makes the animation even smoother at the beginning and end. However, if you want to make the animation fast at the beginning and soft, at the end, for example, then simply decrease the first reframe and increase the other. I recommend you play around with it to understand how it works. Let's do the same for other doors. Only here since we moved them along the X axis will leave only the X location visible. We'll also select everything and scale up. Alright, let's return to the timeline and save our artwork by pressing Control plus as we already learned a lot and made impossible. We learned how to create freed models, texture them, bake those textures. We even animated our Fredy model, and we're not going to stop on that because in the next lesson, we will do the most beautiful part, in my opinion, and learn how to create the lighting with the help of which you and your clients will fall in love with the freedom model. 8. Lighting: Here we go. Our freed model is ready, but we need to somehow show it to the world and make it fall in love with your creation. And without proper lighting, it's impossible. That's why we will learn what freed Point lighting is, what is HDRI, and how to use it. And I will also reveal my own secret lighting techniques that will also help you to make your freedi model stand out from the others. So let's go. You may notice that the dresser now looks different than in the last lesson. This is because I played around with textures a bit and added different texture to the doors and the base. You can do it. The two simply create a new material slot then create a new material, go to the shading, open the shader editor, and there will be a BSDFPrinciple. Note. Click on it. And simply press Control plus Shift plus T and select your texture. And I also encourage you to do the same. I encourage you to play around with textures to create your own style. Not just mindlessly repeat after me, but also create and learn something for yourself. Alright, now let's move on to the interesting stuff, lighting. Let's go to the render mode. And start preparing for the render. As you can see, everything is dark here. To fix this, let's click on this Globe icon. Here we can change the environment lighting. If we click on this yellow dot, we can choose different ways to eliminate the environment. But the best one is the environment texture. Click open and select the environment texture that you can find in description or in open source in Google. Here you can increase the lighting power. And the beauty of the environment texture is that everything is already prepared. We just need to choose a suitable texture for our Fredy model, and the lighting will be the same as in the room in real life or in a studio. We can also change the angle and rotate this texture 360 degrees. Here's how to do this. Go to shading instead of Object select world, right here. This will allow us to see the environment texture node, selected and press Control plus D, which will allow us to atom up in nodes. Now we can go back to render mode. And in the mapping note, rotate scale and move the texture as you will to get the desired lighting. With environment lighting, this is the best we can do. Now, let's show you how to add lighting to the Fred model itself. So it looks attractive and professionally. But before I show my method, let's show how other Fred artists actually or usually do it. For a standard three point lighting, you need to create a plane, scale it and align it with the object. Et's do it like that. Okay. Then in edit mode, you need to select this edge behind and extrude it upwards. You can also scale it along the egre axis making it longer. Then select the edge in the middle and bilevelate by adding geometry using the mouse wheel. Then usually you add a material and simply change the color and play with the roughness. I usually set it to one. Alright, let's try to create our own lighting as professionals, too. So we create an area light, and we need to move it to the far left corner of the dresser and rotate it 45 degrees by pressing plus Z plus 45 and direct the lighting to the object. This will be our main light, but it does not have enough power, so let's increase the power right here. Let's say to 400 or 600, it depends on how far your light from the dresser. But as you can see, in this part, there is a lack of light. So let's fix it by duplicating the existing area light on the right side and also directing it toward the object. And this time, moving it closer and changing the power to ten or even eight, just a little, so it's enough to highlight this part. Alright, everything looks good, but something is missing. Namely, the light from behind. So we create another area light and rotate it so that it shines in the back. Let's do that. Okay, let's move it further. We also can stretch it a little on the Egrek axis, and that's what I don't like with the setup with this regular setup. Is that background light is not looking any good no matter what you do. You can change the type of lighting, the power, but it just doesn't click. That's why I'm going to show you my secret method. Let's like this, plain and delete it. Or you can hide it for now. And instead of it just create a plane, rotate it on the grok axis 90 degrees and scale it. Also, we can apply the same material that we used for our previous setup. Now we go further and duplicate this plane by present shift plus D and then rotating 90 degrees. And we need to place it under the object, but not too close. This plane serve us as a light reflector. By the way, this trick is also used in photography, and it helps to add a professional look and light to the object without adding additional lights. Let's move it away from the camera, and if you need more reflection, you can change color to white, for example. You can also play with roughness. Now, the back light, create area light and rotate it on -90 degrees. And place it at the back. Also for more accuracy, we can scale it to the size of the object and also change the power to 100 or 150. And this will add nice glowing effect to the object, as you can see right here. This specific light is optional. You can choose to audit or not. As for me with it, it looks more attractive. A, let's create background light. We need to do it in the same way as in previous setup. We could just duplicate this Avery light. Rotate it and place it close to the plane on the background. We could better see our lighting from the front view. We could press num three or do it manually. Then let's press Control plus t plus zero. And by doing this, we will now look from the same angle but from the camera. How to set up the camera, I will show you in the rendering lesson, so don't worry about it for now. Alright, let's increase power of the light or we could move plane closer to the light, and if you want, you can play with it. Also remember that we have the HDRI AKA environment texture. We can also increase the power or decrease it to our liking, and here we go. We created insane lighting setup for free model, but now there is a question, how do professional render free model? From what angle should I shoot and what is important to show in my model to attract the attention of clients? And the answer to that question, you will find out in the next lesson. 9. Rendering + Files: What angles to use in renders so it look professional. How many renders should I have and what is even freelance in Blender? And why would it help me to be perceived as a professional? All of that you will find out in this lesson. So let's go. First, let's make our rendering litteru more convenient. For now, let's hide the lighting and background and select all dresser parts except the curve. Then we shift select the base at the last Objects and press Control plus P, Object keep transform. And now thanks to this, we can easily rotate the whole dresser on the select in the base. Also, let's create a camera. Just press Shift plus A, and here press camera. Go to the camera view and you need to press zero on the numpad. And now to be able to move the camera, we need to press. And this menu will pop up on the right side of the screen and in the view, put the checkmark on the camera to view. Now with the mouse, we can move the camera. To be more precise with your mouse wheel. Also in the output, right here, you can set the resolution. You can set 1080 by 1080 for Instagram or any other resolution. I will leave it in ful G for now. Also, at the bottom, if you select the camera, you'll see a camera icon, and if you click on it, we will customize the camera even more. For example, we can change the focal length. Now it is set to a standard, 50 millimeters. However, for more professional renders, I advise using 80 millimeters or even 125 millimeters. And here we go. Camera is now set up. Now let's switch to the render view. Picture look good, but we could do it better. If you click on this render icon and scroll down, you will see the color management. And here in the L, you can apply different filters. I encourage you to look all of them to see which one you like the most, but I personally like medium high contrast. Alright, now let's learn from what angles to shoot to make our object to look professional. The first and the basic angle is from the front of the object. It will be the main render that shows the general look of the freedom model. But before render, we need to make sure that in here, we set our render engine to cycles. It's GPU compute and also important parameter is MAC samples, which are responsible for the quality of the render. But I would not advise setting it too high, 1,700 will be enough. If you have a weak PC, you can set it to about 400 to 800 because too high value will increase the rendering time. And to render it, just click on render and render image or just press F 12. And after your images, render it, click on Image and save it to the file with renders. Next, we need to render it from the 45 degree angle. You can rotate the object on 45 degree or rotate the camera. But if you rotate the camera, remember to move the background light. And when you're satisfied with the result, just render and save it. We also need to render from the other side. So we need to show how it looks on the back, so let's rotate the dresser on 180 degrees on the axis and render it again. Also, we need to show some details. That's why this is important to use close up renders. In this case, we can show how good the texture on the doors, shells, handles, et cetera. Let's render it as well. Let's not forget about the inside of the dresser. Let's play animation a bit. And as you can see inside, it's a little dark. That's why I added this slide. Basically, I just duplicated this one and decrease the power to ten, and that's it. As you can see, it's much better looking now. So let's render it. So we can render its full open. In general, there is no strict rules about angles. I just showing you the basic. However, I encourage you to watch at the professional taking shots of the product before you render any free model and learn for yourself what angles they use, what light they use, et cetera. This way, you will learn more and keep develop. Also, I forgot to tell you about Live hug, which makes the renders more realistic. If you click on the camera and go to the camera settings, you will have the depth of field section. You need to turn it on and it will create a blur. But now we need to create one more object. And it's empty cube. I need to scale it to the size of the object. And when it's done, we need to select the camera and in the setting select empathy as focus object. Let's go back to the render view mode. And here you will see nice blurred background and the focus on the object. The FSA parameter decides how blurred everything will be. If you can't see how blurred everything is, you can switch to the texture preview mode, and here you can see it more clearly. I personally use deep field on every render, even though sometimes it's not very obvious that there is any blur and render. All right. Now let me show you how you can show topology or geometry for your client and render. That's very important part because if people know that geometry is good, they can understand that the overall quality of your freedom model also very good. So how to do it? First, we need to hide everything except of the dresser again. And select every part except of the curve. Then go to the edit mode. Make sure you select Edges by pressing. Two, select everything by pressing. A, and then right click with your mouse and select Mark freestyle edge. That's how we mark every single edge we need to show. Now let's go to the render settings, scroll down a bit. And here we need to enable freestyle. Also, we need to go in view layer right here. And if we scroll a little bit, we will see the freestyle settings. Here we need to enable only and only age mark. Everything else needs to be deselected. You'll probably have it like this when you open it. Unselect everything unnecessary. And also here you can change the color of the grid and its thickness. I recommend to set it too. One, you can change the down settings however you want. I'll leave it up to you. Now let's go to the camera view and we can show our Greton cycles engine because it won't be visible in most of the cases. So for convenience, we need to choose workbench as a render engine. And here you can choose different lighting that will suit to show the topology. And when you are satisfied with lighting, you can finally click that render button. And after rendering, you will see this wonderful result. Do not forget to make more renders with topology to increase the chances of success, and overall, you need to have around 15 to 25 renders, including regular renders and topology renders. And we have our render that will create valve effect. One more step before publishing our fred model is preparing it for sale. And this is very easy step but also very important. So let's do it. First, before exporting our files, we need to make sure everything is perfect, as everything in its own place and that we have no necessary hidden objects. We can hide all these collections to see if all of the objects are in them. Also, we need to delete empty and unnecessary collections. Just click on them and you can just delete them. Also, you don't need the references. All right, we are ready. So to export the files of our objects, we need to go to the file export. And here we will see many files that can be exported. But we will export the file starting with OBJ and then going down. So click on Abg and here also in some files, we have the option selection only. And if we click on it, then we will be able to export only those objects that are currently selected. Usually, I click this if I do not want to export unnecessary object, for example, the background. In this free model and in any other for sale, I advise to delete lighting and background because usually it only disturbs customers. I would just select the folder to which we want to export it. I would advise creating a new folder to avoid creating a mess and just export it. And you also need to do this with all the files that are below the list. When we export the Abex file in the object type, make sure here is selected curves and shine in blue because we have curve in our scene, and it's a crucial part of animation. Also exporting GLB file, you can choose whether export animation or not. All right, let's export the last file. And after we have exported all the files from Blender, we need to export one more file, our native file. For that, let's go to the Blender files and look for the Blender project with our free model. Don't click on it, copy it and paste it in the file with the exported files from Blender. Here we go. Alright, we have everything we need to publish our platforms. However, in the case of textures, they need to be converted to a Zip file so that the platform you will post it on does not perceive them as renders. And I can congratulate you. All that remains is to post our model on marketplace. And well, everything seems easy, but it is at this stage that many freed artists lose their clients and earnings. So in the next lesson, I will show you how to present your freed model in such a way to attract attention of clients and sell it successfully. 10. How to sell 3d models: If you want to sell your Fredy model, this is probably the most important part. A lot of freedi artists take this not serious enough, and because of that, they suffer because they don't see any sales and money flow into their account. And they worked so hard to create this precious Freddie model and ended up with nothing. And this is why we will learn how you can avoid this and how to sell your freedi model properly. I want you to be very serious right now and listen and analyze everything very carefully. So let's get started. First, let's look at how our colleagues in the industry sell free models and what mistakes they make. For example, let's look at this free model. And if you read the description, it seems like the person is selling the item itself, not its Fredy model. However, for me as a buyer, it's important to know more about the Fredy model itself and its actual real life version of it. What the model's advantages and disadvantages are and so on. That's why details are so important. Also, the renders here are quite good, and the Fredy model itself is very good, but it's unlikely to interest the buyer. It simply doesn't provide a reason to buy the Fredy model. Alright, let's look at another example. And now my advice don't insert links in the description because they simply don't work. And most likely no one will copy and follow the link to fill another version of your Fredy model or another website. In this fred model, you can see that this guy inserts the characteristic of this Fred model such as how many meshes, vortices, corners that has, and so on. But that's also bad. Imagine you came to a car dealership and you are about to buy a new car. And the salesperson approaches you and starts listing all the cars features. It has four wheels, two mirrors, a single steering wheel, two bumpers, and so on. You will likely lose interest in buying this car. Also, here, we need to captivate the buyer and give them a reason why this freed model is worthy of being included in their project. Also the renders here are very beautiful. I really like the presentation. And if this model was including a good description, it would be a hit. This free model is the same. There is no call to action. In this example, you don't even have to read very long to notice that it was written by an AI. My advice is never to use an AI to sell anything. At first glance, it may seem that it's doing a good job, but in reality, it's not. It's easy to see the AI language and presentation in the description. And overall, it won't look very professional. Now, let me ask you do you really want your freedom model to sell? If the answer is yes, then don't be lazy. I understand that you might be tired or maybe you want to post your freedom model for sale as soon as possible for the world to see it. And I understand that. However, it's important to dedicate all your energy to the stage because it's the most important of all as it is responsible for the result. Generally, about 90% of freed artists make the mistake we've discussed. Now let's learn how to upload to Fred model and how to sell it correctly. I personally upload in it, too. Cigitrader you can Google which Fred Model selling platforms exists and posted. There, I personally like this marketplace because it has the highest royalty rate, but this isn't advertising. You can try publishing on different platforms yourself, but the main thing is not to get stuck on just one because the chances of success will be much lower. Alright, so I will click Upload. And by clicking here, we can open and upload our files. Or we can drag and drop the files here. First upload files that we exported recently and the Blender file. And in the Blender file, we need to check the native box and then enter the Blender version and render engine. Let's also apload the textures we converted to a zip file earlier. And here we need to select that this file is with textures. You can search here or enter it yourself. Alright, let's scroll a bit, and now let's upload all the renders. First, I recommend uploading the renders. We made with cycles engine, and then the renders showing the topology. The worst image should be the most beautiful, showing the Fred model in its full glory, since it will be the icon people will see when they click on your freedi model. Let's organize everything. And after we've done, let's move to the most interesting part. The title and the description. The title is pretty simple. We just need to write that this is a free model of a chest of drawers. In our case, to make it stand out, sometimes add words like unique, modern, high quality and others at the beginning to stand out from the crowd. You can also add at the end that it was made by you. This adds professionalism and a bit of authority to you as the author. Now for the description, from the very beginning, we need to interest the buyers by saying something like, if you're looking at high quality freed model of furniture for interior design games or your own project, you should consider producing this freed model of a chest of drawers. Here's why. And then you need to add the reason why. And below, we need to talk about the advantages of this free model, but we'll do this in an unusual way, just like one of the best salesmen of the 21st century, Steve Jobs. For example, when selling an iPod, he didn't say it has 5 gigabytes of memory. He said, half thousand songs in your pocket. I'll do the same. We need to not only talk about the advantages, but also explain how client can take advantages of them. For example, this Friday model is completely editable and I don't have to use expensive programs like substance, surface to change the texture or color of the material, which makes the work a lot easier and saves a lot of money. Or if you textures baked. You can write. It has high quality four K, eight K, whatever texture you have, fresh baked textures that you can import in real engine to create game or ultra realistic renders of this Fredy model. So basically, give them a reason why they should buy this model, why it would be usable for them. And why is it so cool? We also created fred model in real size using high quality references. And we also going to write these advantages on our description. And I advised you to do this in this way. All objects are real size, which helps you not only to use a model for games without any problems, but also to create realistic interior renders, whether for a real estate agency or for your own purposes. You can also mention that the price is very good. By saying something like this, a huge plus of model is the price. If you browse the market, you want to find a better price quality ratio. You can add a small call to action if you're truly confident in your freedom model. Also, I add this compared to the other Fred models on the market that have from 100 k up to two millions of vertices. This model contains only 49 K, which means you can use this project for a wide range of purposes, even on low end computer. This why we show why people should buy from us and not from others. And finally, we need to add a small call to action. Something like this. This model is an excellent choice for your interior design and personal projects. So don't miss out on this opportunity. Get it now and create something truly beautiful. And personally, I offer a 50% discount for the first week to slightly increase sales at the beginning. And with description, that's it. Alright, now the tags. Here you can use logic and enter tags that match your free model. In CDI trader, you also have recommended tags. As a last resort, you can use AI or a hashtag generator. It's important to be bulten at as many relevant hashtags as possible. All right, once the hash tags are written, all that's left to do is indicate that we have textures and materials. That the freedi model is animated, that its textures are baked. And also, if you created a lo poly model, also indicate this. In the geometry section, we need to choose polygonal mesh. Or if you didn't apply subdivision, you can choose subdivision ready. Now we need to specify how many polygons and vertices the freedom model has to find out, open the Blender with our project again. And after opening this menu, we need to click on statistics. And here on the left side of the screen, we will see every information we need, how many vertices adds faces it has. And now we just need to enter the numbers. A Also, we need to add category should be furnitures and also subcategory. That'll be cabinets. Last but not least, we need to enter the prize. After that, we can confidently publish the freedi model. And also remember, if you do not see any result at first, it doesn't mean that you did a bad job. You need to understand that if you want to really become good with selling freed models, you need to create a freed model regularly so that people would understand that you can create quality, and you will attract your own audience and step by step achieve success in it. Also, it will tip for you. Try to promote your freed model on social media, because sometimes just publishing it on marketplace isn't enough. So keep going, keep practicing, never give up. And once you will create ecosystem that will allow you to earn money possbly and help more and more people, I know you can do it, and I believe in you.