Lampwork Links Earrings

1. Lampwork Links Earrings: Hello. My name is John Tinny. I'm a jewelry designer and shooter from Southwest UK on Welcome to the Links Study in this class, this class is an introduction to making your own jump Prince as a pair of large jump rings formed the basis of each pair of studs, you could buy the job drinks and sold them closed away from pay a little bit more and buy clothes. Jump rings. But making your bone is a lot easier than you might think. This grass covers to persevering supportable show. You have to change the shape of the rings. The class will also test your soldering skills. I'm going to finish the hearings with some lovely hand made love work beats, but you could finish him off with any beans that you like. Call, maybe even leaving, playing while other idea is to, perhaps at a cluster of three sworn beats at the bottom. Instead, this class is part of my 52 hearing this serious. I changed myself to create 52 hearing designs in 2017 and build tutorials for them. Look out for 52 hearings fresh tightening into Facebook to see some more information on behind the scenes photos. So if you're ready, let's get start by having a look at the equipment to avenge. Need to make the earrings. 2. Lampwork Links Earrings - equipment: These are the hand tools that you're going to need to make the earrings to form the large jump rings or loops that are the basis of the stud earrings. I'm going to wrap some wire around this metal. Mandel Andi, As you can see, it, fits into a holder, a clamp that turns in the stand on National Alliance with very, very easily wrap the wire into a coil. This particular versions could a coil cutter, and I've heard it quite some time, and I use it a massive amount. But you don't need one of these pieces of kit a jump ring wind er, sometimes called you don't desperately need one of these pieces of kit to make the jump rings all the loops. You can, in fact, wrap the wire around anything round of a suitable size. It just takes a little bit more effort and a little bit of patients to make sure that each coil of wire sits neat, please, next to the previous one, because that makes it easier to cut the coils into the separate links. Later on, I'm going to cut through the coil with the jewellers sore and support my work on the bench . Paige, with the April underneath to catch the dust on Grand show you a trick with the masking tape that's going to make it a lot easier to cut the coil into the separate links. The job off the needle files is to clean up. The soldier joins. If there's a little bit of excess soldier that's spoiling the look of the earrings. I was an over triplet on a nylon hammer because I'm going to make two of the links oval. So we're Shea two pairs of earrings, one with round links and one with over ones. But I'm going to text your both sizes with the Planet Shing Hammer. Andi, I'm going to put the links on the steel bench. Block contracts another cushion while I hammer them. The wire cutters on did a round nose pliers there because I'm going to use those to help me hang the beads from below the links to finish off the earrings. You're also needs soldering equipment, so I'm going to show that to you next 3. Lampwork Links Earrings - soldering equipment: This is the soldier equipment, as I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap. On top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi, the paintbrushes. What I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work. Small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas, butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans it a couple oxides up before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers. Not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes. Look after them carefully. 4. Lampwork Links Earrings - materials: Let's have a look at the materials that you're going to need to make the earrings. The links that formed the main part of the earrings They're going to be made out of 1.2 millimeter sterling silver wire. I'm going to hang reads below them on hedge pins made out of North 0.5 millimeter Study Silver wire. I've got different beads for each of the two pairs of earrings I'm going to use to beads on the oval hearing, so I'm going to make. I've got a pair of lump work glass coil beads. I got some died Jade beads. Since I'm going to hang below those on the round earrings, I'm going to use lump work again. These are a pair of ivory glass speeds that have had fine silver wrapped around thumb. On that fine silver has separated out and melted into balls on the surface of the glass. What a pair of stud fittings for each pair of earrings Onda pair of butterflies toe add onto those to finish the earrings off 5. Lampwork Links Earrings - coiling the wire: So I got my jumping maker set up. Andi, I've got the 1.2 millimeters sterling silver wire that I'm going to use to make the jump ring for the earrings. But I'm going to make a few more jumps, rings or links the same time so that I've got to stop with them to use for other projects. Now this Mandel has got, you can see his got a notch at the end of the Mandrell here. By the way, this is a 12 millimeter Mandel here, So my links are going to have an inside diameter of about 12 millimeters. I say about because when they're coiled tightly around here, that's going to be 12 millimeters. Were once I released the pressure of the tension on the wire, they August 3 over open, ever so ever so slightly. But what I can do, how ankle the wire is to put it in that notch at the end of the manual there. But first of all, what are going to do is just loosen the Poile younger takeoff, undo this end of the wire, so sit that spring open like that looks like a bit of a mess. but it's going to be easy to put back together. I'm just to hear the coil hang off the end of the bench Now until pull the wire through my finger in some, as I need to. So I've got the wire in the notch like so. And then it has start turning the handle and bend that y around. I'm gonna heat my finger in some next the why here rather than down here. So I've got control like starch off just by turning it quite slowly. If you're doing this by hand, you're definitely going to have to do this quite slowly to make sure there we go that the coils, our city nicely next to each other. I can get a little bit faster with this. I'm pulling the wire. So this it's quite taught because for a bit pressure and that helps me to make the best links through this coil that I can He has a nice, steady pressure. Okay, then that's enough links. So just going to snip. Why there? You see, the pressure was taken off and then we go. That's the coil, So I've got plenty there. What I need on the next stage is going to be actually cutting those into separate links 6. Lampwork Links Earrings - cutting the links: the next stage. Making jump rings of any size is a teeny tiny ones that you used to attach dependent to a chain to the larger ones like these that you can use in a chain bracelet or in Ewing's project. That we're doing at the moment is to cut the coil just out one side of it, into separate links. There are quite a few different methods will cutting a coil into separate jump rings, different ways of holding the coil in relation to the sword. Late on, they all focus on being able to cut through it safely without cutting through that, the sorbets slipping on, damaging the other side. I'm going to show you my favorite way, which uses the masking tape I like to do is use the masking tape to wrap around the coil. Would it nice and family. And if you had gaps in the coil, then at this stage is good to try and push them together a little bit about your taping. The taking the cool together now because I've had quite a bit of practice it doing this, my coil. My links are nice on Duh bison meat lying. I see against each other, so I didn't have that problem. But if you do have a gap in between separate links as your blade cuts through one and then goes into a gap, it can take a little bit of effort to find its way again. So it's nice to have the coil nice and neat. Now the advantage of my message off holding the coil together with masking tape is that even though I can't separate links off, it's still going to stay as a nice long length. That's going to be easier for me to hold on to with some of the other message. You end up with just a very short coil of a few jump rings that I find really awkward hold onto. The next thing is that I thread my coil on to my so bright. So I got my sword blade going through the middle of the coil. You can see here, Andi, what I like to do because I use the Mandel's that notch at the top. I have that extra bit of wire at the top so that we are starting off my believe in. Sit in that. In that corner is the vice sleep? No. So then what to do is hold the blade at an angle, usually until you to hold it Bison upright. But this summer, when you told it is an angle, this is because if you hold it upright, you're going to end up trying to cut through all of those coils or of those separate leaks at the same time. If you hold it at an angle, you're going to cut food First. Couple my 1st 1 or two and then what? You weigh down the coil, and that's going to be a lot easier. Actually, Something to mention now is that you don't want to coil the wire up too high this size of link. On this height, a coil works quite nice. Seats is about 34 links here. Andi. I can still tip the blade over nicely, but if it had bean a smaller diameter link, it's more diameter Mandel that I coil the wire around with this height of coil. I wouldn't there wouldn't be ruled to tip the blade over very far, which would make cutting it a lot more difficult, because I'd be cutting several links at the same time. So I'm going to host an angle. I have my fingers on the top coil because I don't want, as I saw back upwards. I don't want that talk oil to be pulled out of the coil and for the shape to go. So I'm going to brace it with my fingers. I've got the coil sitting on top of the V in the bunch pike, the way we got What? Well, but But you should be out to see now that some but business still with dust here showing that I am definitely cutting so on the blade is starting to show down the side of the coil . You might want to shift your fingers at some point so that you are giving a bit mawr strength to the coils. It gets cut. But make sure. Obviously, you don't have a finger like that. It really would hurt that. Took fewer, started to fall off. That was a very long oil that I did. Okay, so you say the first sexually coil did start to fall off, but the marshal tape still held it together nicely, so it's still enough for me to hold on to without it being too fiddly. So if I take the mosque in take off, we'll see the cut line there. Lots of lovely links cuts there. Thes two little pieces are from the very top of the very bottom of the coil. There's always a little bit of waste, but those would be balled up, melted and walled up nice, sick tomate to Silver Voices that great another project. We're actually only going to need thes four rings here for the earrings project. But whenever I cut jump rings, I do tend to cut quite a few, because I do go through them quite quickly. So it's nice to have a stock. The next thing to do is to show you how to make sure that the links are nicely, tightly closed. Andi then solder them close to start making the earrings. Another tip for you is that I even put the masking tape in my scrap hot because it's got little bits of silver dust. Such a tape on every little bit does add up, so I have some with wet wipes that I used to work my fingers after being polishing essay habits of masking tape on sometimes stickers have uses templates to cut complex shapes out . All of those go in scrap pot as well. And then when I send all the scrap, including those bits up to my brilliant supplier, thou melt everything down the bits. Thank the paper will burn off, but the silver dust will remain on. As I said, it does add up. 7. Lampwork Links Earrings - preparing for soldering: one of the requirements of soldering is your soldier. Joins needs to be nice and tight. You don't want any gaps. Remember, soldier isn't a glue, so it's not gonna fill any gaps now. We don't need to do any filing to these ends because or if the links were cut from the same angle. But we do need to make sure that the links are tightly closed on. If I move that about to the light, you should be out to sea. The gaps there is wide enough me to be able to get my finger that Lynn. So I need to make sure that's tightly closed. And to do that, I'm going to twist the ends back in force, pushing him past each. As I do that, I'm letting them spring back, and then that's tightly closed. Hopefully, you shouldn't may be able to see where the joint is that I can feel it with my fingernail cause I have with my finger rather because it's a little bit rough. But you shouldn't be out to see that someone do that with the other full full rings. Remember, because we're doing two pairs of hearings so likely different techniques for each pair you can just twisting them passed each other, pushing in, which slightly certainly spring back when they meet nicely, So those are now ready for soldering. 8. Lampwork Links Earrings - soldering the links closed: it's time to soldier these links close Now we're going to be using medium soldiers closer links because that will leave me easy soldier to soldier to start fittings on afterwards. I've lines the links up on soldering brick. Andi, the joins are at the top here. I always lined them up in this way so that I know exactly where the joins are because they're not that easy to see now that they're close properly. But least they shouldn't be easy to see if you have closed those joints properly. This way, I know exactly where they are. I'm going to put nice drop off flux on each one. I don't need to put it all over the link. Just a the join. Understand? To use the damn paintbrush to pick up a piece off medium soldier on. And this is always the trickiest bit. I find getting the medium soldier too. Come upon the paintbrush Can use a soldier pick, I hope Help scrapes the soldier off the brush furniture. Make sure it's in the right place. No, it doesn't matter whether soldier is on top of the join underneath it, lying to one side of it as long as it's touching the joint and as long as it's lying across the joint, not to just to one side. So it's worth just checking that one needs moving along a bit. That guy, the other so fine. I'm just using a small torch on what I'm going to do. First of all, it's just put a flame on the bottom part of the link. Let's silver heat up on, then brush across the front off, rather the top of the link to melt the solder across the joint. It's important to try and heat the link evenly on both sides because you don't want a soldier to flow on one side and not the other. If that does happen, you can solve it. I'll show you how sort that out later on, you can see it's heating up quite nicely, getting nice red change. The silver there shot going across the top that hopefully saw a nice flush of liquid molten metal there if you didn't look out for it, but I do the next three, but soda melted. I think that the flame on it for a couple of seconds longer, so it flowed out nicely and across to join. If you can tell that the solder is starting to flow more one site than the other so obsessed to flow over this side, then bring the flame over this side more to heat this side up because the soldier will flow towards the hottest side. - Now all those pieces. Soldier did what they were told on stage where I wanted them to if they had jumped off the links at any point. So I started heat silver up that I would have turned the torch off, use a soldier picked to move the soldier back where I wanted and then started again. Another trick is that if the solder is a little bit tricky to move, you can always move the link so it it's on top of the soldier. Instead of moving the soldier, those are now ready to quench on pickle on and ready for the next stage. 9. Lampwork Links Earrings - filing: once you soldier, the joke rings. It's worth checking. Soldier joins to make sure that they're nice and neat. Andi, if there's any excess soldier to then file that off filed, the soldier from these two jump rings here now needs to saying, with these ones, Andi, I'm going to use the flat needle file to do around the outside. They're just sweeping across the joy, and you don't want to file just a joy because that would put a flat edge just there. See going to sweep across instead. And so the ring round if you need to, and you could do the sides with this far as well. But insight you want to change to a filed is a better fit to the shape of the silver that you are finding so full inside curve. You want to use a cur file, so it's going to remember just the forward motion of Father Cuts one for the inside. With the rounded file. This one hasn't got as much access solder. Is it far as much on this one and the flat file 22 around the outside. Yes, you don't need to do all the way around the outside just where soldier is of it too thick. Now, at this stage, you can, if you want to give the joints a quick rub with emery paper to get rid of a file marks. But personally, I tend to find that once I've done the next stage, which is well, in the case of one set of rings, hammering them face to the other need to shape some before I had then going to hammer them . I find that the hammering tends to hide the farm marks anyway, so I'm going to go into the next station now. 10. Lampwork Links Earrings - making oval links: in this section of the class. I'm going to show you how to turn two of circular links into over links. I'm going to use a small oval triplet Andi the nylon hammered. To do that, I'm going to rest a triplet on the leather cushion whilst I'm working because I find that that way. The triple. It's just like to slip about. So take one going each time and put the 1st 1 on the triplet. You can see it's a got bit of a gap down the sights. Andi. What is best to do? If I can go, there's That's where the joint is. What is best to do is to put the joint on one of the long side rather than at one of the shorter sides of the tips of the ovals. Put some of the long sides because it's actually had the least amount of pressure applied to it there, and then he needs to is simply we'll sit around, We go was better. What they need to do is just you still not on Hamma to tap. You mean against its hammering it, pushing it up against your triple it. But it's doing that it's forcing it to take on the shape off the huh? I'm just going around around making sure sits, Take on. Taking on the over shape we go and see the contrast between the two. We got the original circular, uh, link No one. That's now nice. And over. I put him up sickness, even at the same angle. Maybe a bit more obvious. Okay. Same with the 2nd 1 from Triplet that they join one of the long sites. Uh, now I've got one pair off oval links on one pair of round links. I could if I wanted to leave him like that. And soldier, the such fittings on to them as they are. But I'm not going to hammer them next to give them a bit of a texture into flashing them out of it. Before I do any soldering 11. Lampwork Links Earrings - hammering: it's time to hammer the links now, before I sold to the study fittings on I'm hammering the links for two reasons number one, because it's going to give a really nice texture. The second reason is that it's actually going toe. Widen the wire as well as it fashions it a little. Which means it's going to give a wider surface area for the such fittings to be soldered onto, which is actually going to make everything or not, Nieto. We'll be using the flashing hama. Andi, I've got the links on the steel block on the leather cushion to keep the noise down a little bit. Andi was gonna keep one link on the left on the steel box at the moment, otherwise of the others, world knows well that I haven't that one that would go bouncing everywhere. So the trick here is to try not to hammer your fingers. I tend to hold the link like so just hammer around one side and then turn a little bit of time. Hey hammering. So hopefully you can see there's a difference between the two links one that I'm hammered a moment I haven't So this one is it a little bit wider? The wire looks wider than this one 12. Lampwork Links Earrings - soldering the stud fittings: I've got everything set up and ready to go for soldering. I've got a stud fitting already in a pair of reverse action tweezers ready to be soldered onto the back of the links on. I've put a permanent pen mark on the back of each link just to show where I want was the fitting to be soldiers. I've got four pieces off Easy soldier for small pieces. They are their promise, because what I'm going to do is Dick the search fitting in the flux in here. Hold it in place on one of the pieces. Solder melts the solder onto the end of the study. Fitting. Move over to one of the links holds the study fitting in place on the remote soldier to join everything together. So four links. So we'll be watching this four times. Dip, influx away we go soldiers. On the end, says one. Here's the crunch punch. When I put the links into Quench part, I also quench the tweezers a little bit a swell like that. See the end? Is it a bit wet so that I can safely puts? Use my fingers to put the next start fitting into the trees is to three four links now turned into stud earrings. Couple reminders for you. The 1st 1 is that I was focusing the heat on the link when I was getting a soldier to re melt on. Then, once everything was at the right temperature, I was going back up to the sudden fitting and brushing frame across there to get the soldiers re melt. Remember, it's the heat of the piece of silver for courses, a soldier to melt and flow, not the heat playing. So you don't want to focus of flame just on the joint. The other reminder that he was a visual reminder that soldering is definitely a lot quicker and much, much easier if you take the time to prepare first. So I taken the time to make sure that everything was lined up on the soldier break that I had my piece of sold already, that everything was toe hand and also that everything was safe, which meant that everything, thankfully, went very well on didn't take for a launch do so. I'm going to pop those earrings in the pickle so they clean the copper, emphasized that dirty gray color off and then I'm going to polish them before I add the beads. All the end. I'm going to put them in my tumble polisher. But if you don't have one of those than a simple polishing cloth would do the trick. Justus. Well, a small project like this. 13. Lampwork Links Earrings - making the headpins: I'm not gonna show you how to make your own hedge pins by melting one end of a piece of wire. Hedge pins are a short length of wire that have a stopper at one end, and that prevents the beads from slipping off them so you can thread a bead on to the head of a pin. It doesn't come off the bottom, and then you can wire wrap that hedge cling onto something else. So I got everything set up in a way that's nice and easy and safe for me to work. I'm right handed, so I've got a bundle off wires in my left hand. Thes are cut off pieces of the north 0.5 millimeter. What I showed you earlier. The shortest pieces about four centimeters. The longest is about five centimeters. The great thing about making a road head pins is that you can make the length of the wire as long as you like. I've also got reverse action Theresa's type tweeted that you have to push to be able to open them. So I got those in my right hand on. What I'm going to do is take one later. Why at a time on Hold it in the flame. I've got everything says you're on top of the slate, so it it's all fireproof. I've got some fire bricks behind us here twice, a little bit more protection. I've also got my quench pot here on my right hand side. So to make each head up in, I'm going to take one out of the bundle holdings in the flame, let it melt and then drop it into the quench particle down. So everything set up in a way that's nice and safe. Easy for me to work. No, I usually make quite a few head pins to time. I'll have maybe 50 piece of wire in my hands to time to take one's time. We're only going to need T to make two for this project, but it's still worth making. A few times he gets the hang of it, and then you can choose the two that all the best fit on the best flanks for your project to the end. So turn the talk, Sean. Good. So the end of the flame here just about see it and see the blue comb as I put the tweets, is in the flame. You can maybe see a little bit of yellow flame coming out yellowy orange flame. I want to put a piece of wire just about here, just in front of glucose. I'm going to take one. Hold it just inside. You could see what it thinks. It starts going right. It's that quick. It's gone already. I do you some close ups of these in a while, but it's balled up the end already. You just need a little bit of a ball. Hold it in place. It's moved about a little bit. Get most even board and then drop hitting. Hold it just in front of blue cone. It's pulled up. It really is that quick. Whoops does help. If you don't drop them, we'll go back for that one later. Her back for that one later as well. So time lucky. There we go. That's balled up, some holding and just in front of blue coat on just one second. Keep them in the flame, but just bounce back just a little bit. Personally. That's the way that I've found to get the best smoothest around this most central ball of the end. About two that I've dropped, being careful to use the tweezers to help me. No, not putting my hand too close to the flame. One you see. So as you can see the wire balls up on its own, it's little bit won't like when you're making little balls out of scrap Silver's. I've melted on the charcoal block for other projects. It's the same principle, silver or all metal as you melt it. It just balls up all its own. But because you're melting, just the tip of the why just a tip balls up. And if you let it that ball, travel up the wire to become bigger and bigger until eventually it does fall off. If it does, fall off well before off bit. Ends up your scrap pot to be used to something else. And just use what's left of the piece of wire to melt maker. A site shorter head spinning you still be able to use for something. I'll show you a close up of the head pendency and see little balls is a mounted on the bottom. They go. There's a nice little bunch of hedge pins or with little balls mounted on the ends of them . There are a few hours or variations in the size of. Also, as I said before, I'm going to choose the to the closest fit. As you can see, there is a bit dirty where the cell was being heated up. Remember, that's the copper oxides. Sterling silver has got 7.5 cent copper in it so that copper reacts with heat and auction the flames, of course, to form the cop A rock sites. So I need to clean that off in the pickle pot and when they're clean, gives them a little bit of a polish with a polishing cross and then they'll be ready to use . 14. Lampwork Links Earrings - adding the beads: I've taken a silver links after tumbler, and there were nicely polished on dive. Use a polishing cloth to give the hedge pains a polish as well, so everything's ready to go. I fretted the beads on the head pins on. I've actually had to add a couple of extra small beads underneath the the ivory lump work beats here. These are four millimeter round Smokey quartz beads have had to add the men, as without them. Show you because the holes in those beads are quite big without them. That happens. Go the way through. So when didn't count that lives tooting my materials So catcher toe, add those in. I could have used thicker wire to make hedge prints could use no 0.8 millimeter. Why? To make the head pins instead, A natch would have allowed me to make a ball on the end of the wire. That would be big enough so it wouldn't have gone through the hole in the bead. But then that Why would have being rather big and chunky to form a loop around the links here so decides do it this way. Instead, I'm going to form a wrapped loop above each beads to then attach it to a link. Andi, I've attached a downloadable PDF tutorial tooth this video class with step by step photos of how to do wrapped loops so that you can go through that in more detail. If you haven't already mastered how to do these the first step with a round nose pliers, let's move pieces outlets. I don't need a moment. So going to hold three hedge pin in the pliers about 1/4 to assert the way he had 1/3 of the way down implies. Remember the close towards the handle, the larger the loop I'm going to for on just going to bend the wire over since. What about questioner? A right angle move supplies round a little bit, so I can then put the wire up, over and across. If I take applies out, I'll show you what it looks like at the moment they were put. Applies by kin. I'm going to pull the wire so cross this side and it's gone back across. That's Google the way around the nose on the pliers, and it's going across there now. Something going to do his I can get a grip on it. Lift one side of the the UN Clint. So right on the link. Okay, so so sweaty John. Squeeze it, close it back down again and then stop pulling that tale to use. But they flat nose pliers. Oops. Tell me his special grip. Pull that tail around so it's now sitting in place. Just need to trim off that piece of what I needed. Peace. You see, cashing in the That's such a tight space. I guess I just have to get the wire but wiggle to fish one area when my son drop to seem to the other oval. So holding applies up against the beats Turn show over the watch about right angle and then spend a while over andrx across again The step by step photos Remember, will help you to see this Make it more close up. Trim off A bit of why. Don't need those two little pieces of why will go my script Pot and students are the same with these Tewell So Duleep lift up one side the loop to open it up. Simple The link squeeze Close that loop back down again using the flatness place. Okay, well that's from okay, Applies is slipping off the why now again? Because I am holding it so tightly. Oops, that's no action as neatly round at around. It could be so I can undo it little bit that special. Sometimes such a tight fit the cutters and he cut through car cut half of the way through the wise You have to give it a beautiful wiggle because we're way through. So now got two nice new pairs of earrings and showing you how you can change the look of a pair of earrings Just by changing the shape of the link on the style and color of the beats you hang below them. 15. Lampwork Links Earrings - final thoughts: That's another two pairs of bearings to add to the collection. This class is another example of how you can change one or two features of design on completely change the look off perv earrings in this case changing the shape of the link and the dump work meeting Blow them. I have the classes show you how easy it is to make your own Jim Prince. I used the purpose made coil wind. Er, that saves me a lot of time, considering how many jump rings I use. But it's not an essential piece of kit. I used knitting needles to call my wire around for many years. I'm looking forward to seeing what you make with the video instructions. Do you remember to share a photo to sweeten it with my your work? Remember, to to download the equipments instructions on it. We great if you could leave a review as well to help other students. Thank you for watching. I'm afford to see you again soon