Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings | Joanne Tinley | Skillshare

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - an intermediate soldering project


    • 2.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - equipment


    • 3.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - soldering equipment


    • 4.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - materials


    • 5.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - sawing 1


    • 6.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - filing the wire


    • 7.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - texturing


    • 8.

      Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - preparing for soldering


    • 9.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - sawing 2


    • 10.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - soldering


    • 11.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - neatening after soldering


    • 12.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - soldering the stud fittings


    • 13.

      Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - final thoughts


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About This Class

Welcome to the Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings class! This class will take you step by step through making a pair of elegant stud earrings with a soft embossed texture. The main aim of the class is to help you to work on your delicate soldering skills and to help you understand the importance of preparing your work carefully before you solder to acheive the best results.

I have created the texture on the earrings using a rolling mill, but if you don't have access to a mill then you could add textures with hammers and texture punches or leave the silver simple and smooth.

This is one of a series of video classes, each one showing you how to quickly and easily make a lovely pair of earrings - sometimes two pairs - as part of my #52earrings challenge. I have challenged myself to design and film tutorials for 52 pairs of earrings in 2017, and I'd love you to join me.

In each video I will show you the materials you will need, explain the tools and equipment and go through all the steps needed to create your own lovely pair of earrings. Along the way I will share with you the same hints and tips that I teach in my jewelry making classes and private tuition so that you become more confident with your techniques and design skills with each class that you watch.

This class is for intermediate jewellery makers.

The equipment needed for the project is explained in the videos and also listed on a downloadable document that covers all of the tools that I will use in future earrings video classes as well so you can plan ahead! All the equipment listed can be used for a variety of other jewellery making projects.



Meet Your Teacher

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Joanne Tinley

Jewellery Designer, Tutor and Writer


I have been making jewellery for as long as I can remember, and have been passing these wonderful (and addctive!) skills on through my classes for nearly 20 years. I am self-taught and like many people I started with wire and beads. Learning how to solder, however, opened up a whole new world of jewellery making! There is something so magical about watching solder flow through a seam, joining two pieces of metal together smoothly.

My studio is in Southampton, on the South Coast of the UK. I design and make jewellery for galleries across the UK, teach regular and popular jewellery design workshops, and also offer private tuition. My jewellery design projects have been published in both UK and US magazines and books.

Visit my Etsy shop, Jewellers Bench Shop, for jewellery ma... See full profile

Level: Intermediate

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1. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - an intermediate soldering project: Hello. My name's during Tinley. I'm a jewelry designer on shooter from South First UK on Welcome to the In Boston Stud Earrings Path. The project in this class is a simple but elegant purse stud earrings with a soft in Boston leaf texture on the front. I've given a silver texture using a rolling mill, but she could quite easily hammer a texture into the front. Instead. This is an intermediate project that it assumes some knowledge of soldering on. The soldering itself is a little bit more delicate than some of the other projects, and Siri's This is part of the 52 earrings challenged. I set myself for 2017 to design and fill 52 different pairs of earrings during 2017. If you like to have a look for the HASHTAG 52 hearings on Instagram and Facebook on, that will show you some behind the scenes photos under a bit more information. So if you're ready, we'll start the class by having a look at the equipment and materials that you're going to need to make the earrings 2. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - equipment: here the hand tools that you're going to need to make the stud earrings First up, I'm going to be using the ruler. Earned the Sharpie to help me, my accounts, the links off the rectangular weir that I'm going to need. But I'm then going to cut that rectangular weir with jewels. Saw. I've got a two ought saw blade. That's a to forward slash zero sword blade as a medium blades that's going to be just right for cutting through the no 00.8 millimeter thickness off the rectangular weir. I'll support the while on the bench. Paige Onda. As usual, any dust that falls will be collected by the leather apron underneath, and then that will go into the popular for recycling insulated eight. I got a cut to or medium grade six inch file for filing the silver wire on to help make sure that my filing is nice and straight says I end up with nice square edges on the wire. I'm going to use the Engineers Square. I'm going to text to the front of the earrings with one of the texture sheets I produce. That's laser engraved card that I'm going to send that through with silver through the rolling mill. Master that to you in a moment. I've got a sharp persists that I'm going to cut the card with a rolling mill is a fantastic investment for any jeweler's workshop. Traditionally, they're used for shaping and sitting sheet metal Andi for re sizing and changing the profile of wire, which makes him fantastic When you're recycling your scrap, that's something. I use my writing milk for a lot, but they can also be used for putting lovely textures into your silver as well. And that's what we're going to be using a foreign. This project, I wish. Top of the range rolling Mill, a dust on a fantastic British made rolling mill. But you can also buy Rolling mills more suited to a beginner's budget as well. They will work the same way they've got hardened postal rollers that are moved further apart on closer together by telling the wheel of top. The best rolling mills have a gauge at the top as well. The numbers on here might not much up perfectly with the actual real sickness of the silver once it's passed, so but they're really good indicator that helps you to set up the rolling mills, the right settings. My gage at the top has a few marks on it from a sharply that help me to set up the rolling mill to the right thickness, the right settings for different projects that I do quite often, we're also going to need some soldering kit for the project, so that's something to shame. 3. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - soldering equipment: thing is the soldier equipment that I use for all of my smaller projects, such as earrings and sore pendants, everything sitting on a couple of slate tiles, a heatproof surface to help protect my desk on my work sits on a couple of soldering bricks , soldering blocks, while some heating it up. One of these soldering bricks is made of a softer material than the others. Because it's softer, it's picked up some dips and some cracks in it. It's being used over the years, and these could be very useful for supporting work that isn't completely flat. The charcoal block is there because I melt small piece of scrap on top of that on. Do they form nice of my balls as I am used to decorate my projects when I need to pick up my work or to support it whilst I'm soldering? I used reverse action tweezers that you can see here and have also got a pair on a stand through 1/3 hand, and it's there when I need 12 on extra hands to help me out. The blue handled stick is a soldier pick on and that I used to push soldier move it about to make sure it it's exactly what I wanted to be. Soldier usually comes in strips or sticks. Andi, I've got three different melting temperatures here that I using combination for different projects. The soldier gets cut into small pieces or Palin's you ting. The red handles snips as I keep those little pieces in the labeled boxes that you can see do. Make sure that you label your boxes because once a soldier is cut up, you won't be hard to tell which is which. Melting temperature. My curl over the ends off the sticks of solder so that I can tell which melting temperature they are, the more cold over they are, they're higher. The mountain temperature, bright yellow liquid is a flux. Solder won't actually flow out through the joining unless you use a flux with it. Andi the paintbrushes. What? I used to apply the flux to the joints in my work, so he was also available in a paste form, its ground up soldier that's already mixed with a flux, so you don't need a separate flux. In fact, if you were toe adds the yellow Fluxus, I showed you it would stop this soldier pace from working properly. It's most commonly available in syringes with small tips that she can see here. You can also buy it in tubs and pots, just like with the traditional sticks or strips of soldier, so the pace is available in three different melting temperatures. Easy, medium and hard. I've just got easy and medium here. The easy is the one that's 268 degrees sent rate for amounting temperature. The medium is 732. Recent weight. As you can tell, the easy solder paste, is a favorite newer than the medium soldier paste. When you have a new syringe, it's best to pull back on the plunger after you finished using it. Otherwise, the soldier pace is going to continue to snake out of the tip a little bit, and you don't want to waste it because this is actually the most expensive way of buying soldier. I like to use the solder paste on projects like chains on door, so hollow beads sometimes might use it on sucking rings if I'm in a bit of a hurry, because one of the advantages sort of place is that the soldier usually stays exactly where you want it to be. Unlike the sort of Italians that can jump off as you start to heat the metal up, small projects like hearings only need a small blowtorch, and I've got two different makes of those here. Both of them are easy to refill with the gas that comes in aerosol cans since the same type of gas butane gas that you use to reform cigarette lighter. At the back of the picture, you can see a so cooker that Scots a very mild acid solution. Good safety pickle in it. When you heat silver up, the surface becomes not darker and dirtier looking that some of the capo in the study silver reacting with the heat and auction flame to forward cause copper oxides on the safety pickle cleans that copper oxides up. Before you put your work in the safety pickle, it needs to be cooled down or quenched in a pot of water. Andi, you need to put your work in and out of the safety pickle with brass or plastic tweezers, not the stainless steel ones that I showed you before and thus, but definitely not least our have safety glasses. You've only got one pair of eyes look after 4. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - materials: These are the materials that you're going to need to make the embossed beliefs that earrings going to be making the earrings themselves out off short pieces off rectangular Weir. This is sterling silver wire. It's no 0.8 millimeters thick by four millimeters wide. I use this as a lot of projects. I find it a very versatile material to use as we're making study rings. I've also got to study fittings on two stunning silver butterflies to put over the ends of them once the hearings are finished. 5. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - sawing 1: I've used to sharpen the ruler to mark of 15 millimetre length on the rectangular weir, and next job is awfully to cut that I'm going to use my jewels so on and my work is supported on the bench. Paige. So that the mark it's on all the noxious I've cut into the bench. Paige so can stay supported last. My blade can access where you have to cut. So since have my my finger crossed the mark so the blade doesn't slip the D. A couple of a couple of movements up with that doesn't really cut the silver. It just pushes a notch into the side of it, so that when I start to close down, words start for so properly, the blade is less like to slip. Remember, you're listening for a nice, smooth, arrhythmic sound. You don't want to put pressure on the blade. If you do put pressure on the blade, you're more likely to get it stuck, make it more difficult to cut and also more likely to break the bait itself so that the blade do the work for you and also try Can't keep it up prices possible. But my finger over to the other side so I could hold onto both sides the cut. Just making easiest finish off. That's the 1st 1 Cut 90 students, 2nd 1 too much. There's always best to cut the first piece on. Then mark out where you want to cut second, rather mark out both points on the silver, whether it's Sheetal Wire and then cut them out. Because if you go off line the 1st 1 your second mark with them, be inaccurate. Okay, that's pieces. Silver cut. The next job is to file the ends. 6. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - filing the wire: When I send the silver through the rolling mill, it is going to stretch out the silver a little bit. Andi maketh e ends maybe a little bit distorted, but it's actually going to be a lot easier for the next stage is if I start off with the silver ends a square as possible. So I'm going to spend a little bit of time now using a file on the Engineer Square to make sure those ends a nice and square. So I'm going to be working on the bench. Paige again on did using the six inch flat file. Andi. It's going to position one of the pieces of silver towards this end of the bench pick lined up so straight edge there on Duthie. Age of the Rolling mill. So the edge of the bench paper, not the rolling mill, making a nice right angle there, which means it's defy. Then hold my file at the same angle. A parallel to the to the bench. Pake. I'm going to be filing a silver at the right angle. Remember the files. Just work going away from you, Andi, whilst you're getting used to this make very slow, deliberate movements forward. Lift off. That's the Sask position. If you go around like that, you're going to end up putting a bit of a dip on your silver. Once you build up the muscle memory, it's going to be a lot quicker. But for now, accuracy is far more important. Speed. You want to use the Engineer Square that there would check the ends and nice and square, so I push the sight of my wire up against the handle. Most sidesteps the top. I can't see any daylight coming through between the steal here on the silver, which tells me that that end, it's nice and square Descended Notch should be able to see even a film that the why is sloping down like that. So it's a bit of firing needed. You're going to need toe work out the best way of holding the silver down because they are very small pieces, and it's very easy to to move them about when you're firing. That's one of the reasons why much being quite gentle with the file I'm not pushing it are not being very fast, because if I was, I'd be more likely to get the silver to move about, some being quite gentle, but you can see from the way that what is disappearing at underneath my fingernails. I am pressing down very firmly. No reason for having the April underneath the bench press so that when you drop things and note, I say when you drop things, you're going to be able to find a little more easily So still checking that I dropped it. That's the end that was really being filed. So I'm happy with that's the end that I just mean filing almost there just needs we just three or four strokes of the file just to finish it off. Yeah, well, I'm happy with that, so I'm going to do the same with second Peter Silver Andi. Then they'll be ready to send through the Rolling Mill. 7. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - texturing: I fought the to cut and filed pieces of rectangular weir over to the rolling milks. It's now time to text to them. I've cut to pieces of texture, sheet and preparation. I didn't see there longer than the piece of silver. That's because the silver is going to stretch, as I sent it to the rolling mill. The color texture. She won't stretch, however, so I don't want to the silver stretch so much that it runs out Texture sheets now don't get a texture over the whole length, the silver. So I've cut enough sheet to hopefully accommodate that. The ideal way of finding out what setting you set up a rolling mill. What mark you need to turn the gauge to up here is to use some copper or some scraps silver with the texture that you want to put onto your silver and to practice sending it through in different settings and see what setting you actually want to use. I've used my texture sheets quite a lot with this rectangle. Why there's no 0.8 millimeter thick silver, so I know that setting I want to use on my gauge is 0.7 to 5 So I've turned it to that setting up. Here's an arrow that that shows the marking up here. So is everything set up most? We'll get started. I'm holding the wire so that it's in line with one of the lines off. The leaves is engraved on the sheets. Sue. Get the textures I want. Andi. I'm going to make sure that I send it through. So the silver is nice and straight so that it stretches. It stretches out evenly. He doesn't twist to one side or the other 100 and it's put the texture that I want on the sheet. I just show you close up. And then I'll show you sending the second piece of silver through the mill from a different angle so that hopefully you can see more of the action now. So about the pieces still protected. It's time to do some more filing, so I have to prepare them soldering 8. Embossed Leaf Drop Earrings - preparing for soldering: sending the silver wire through the rolling mills texture. It has actually given my silver a nice curve, which I want to keep because it's a feature of the project. It's something that I wanted to happen. Sometimes this happens. I don't want it to Aiken, just use and I don't your applies to flat in silver back out again. And likewise, if the silver hadn't come out of curves, I wanted to I could just spent it around. A man drove a suitable size. I could if you wanted to just solder fitting onto the back of the earrings and turn them into starts just how they are. But actually, I want to go to a bit further. I want to give them a back as well. I'm going to make a little bit more verse of sensual pair of earrings before I consoled him onto the back. So I need to show a bit more firing to improve the soldier joint. Onda, I've actually would have done this on one of the pair of earrings. They should be out to sea. This pair bring them closer into focus. There we go on. This one should be able to see two areas. One of the the rent that has been filed because he they're not on this one. So what I've done here, it's just used the file to flatten off the ends a little bit so that there is going to be an increased surface area between get those back into focus again. Increased surface air between this piece of silver on the piece of silver's I'm going to soldiers on top off. So I'm going to show you what I did to get that on the second piece of silver, I'm going to use the six inch fun again. I'm just laying it on the desk so that the handles fouls actually off the ends on, and we're going to do. They can see this can use right handed. I will use my left hand for a little bit sequences a bit more clearly. Just pull the piece of wine back down towards the handle, just putting finger and some on the ends not pressing down the middle, because I don't want to press out the curve that the rolling will put tears, I said. I want to keep that curve on the find the silver still moving in the right direction in relation to each other. Remember, I keep saying the fiery works. What's going forward with the stuff? I'll say still in the work comes backwards that is still going to cut something else I'm also going to do is turn the silver around every now and again, just so make sure that my firing is nice and even because I'm probably pretty, a little bit more pressure down with my finger that I am with my thumb. So I don't want the top to be filed with the part with my finger on it to be filed more than the sum. So by turning it around every now and again, just make a short its license. Even you can see let's see the effects on having so far. That's not quite enough. So we're going a little bit longer. Okay, it's checked again into a status check. This is but longer. This 1st 1 is being filed a little bit more than this one city, but were firing on this second piece. So you say it takes a little time, but it's definitely not difficult. So said I'm right handed, but so you can get a better look at what I'm doing. I'm doing this in my left hand, so it's not difficult to right then most two pieces of pretty. Even so, I'm now going to touch the other pieces. So for that we need in preparation for the soldering. 9. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - sawing 2: I'm using the same rectangular silver wire to back the earrings I used for the front piece of pipe pieces I've really textured. So I'm going to do is just place one of the pieces of silver that I've been working on already and just place it on top of the rectangular weir. I haven't push it right at the Enge because I'm actually going to work with a lot of excess silver on, then trim it down after I sold it. That way, if everything moves ever so slightly whilst I'm soldering, I'm not going to be left with something that's actually too short. So just going to mark with a Sharpie? Well, I need to cut Onda been reduced. Ulis saw to cut that first piece we go. Such the first two pieces of silver resold together putting to one side, says I don't get muddled up on do the same with second place. So putting it on the silver, leaving maybe off a millimeter at the end, and then the thickness of the Sharpie leaves about half a millimeter as well and then trim that piece off as well. There we go. Those are the two pairs off pieces of silver for you to soldier together on and, as you can see, already can see. A gap between the two is quite nice, pleasing shape, and also the putting A back on the curve is also going to strengthen the shape. It means that that curve is going to last was that there was a city could adjust a soldier to start fitting onto the back off just the textured section. Over time, it might have got squashed out a little bit, so to help, it keeps it keep its strength to keep that nice curve go sold at a packing on it and make it look like a more substantial, more professional pair of earrings. 10. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - soldering: I bought the four pieces off silver over to the soldering area on. Put them on a soldering block with solving brick. I now need to apply the soldier and put them into pairs. Andi actually sold them into the earrings. I'm going to use medium solder paste are using solder paste because it's going to stay in place on these tie joints. Andi. I'm using medium solder because that leaves me free to use Easy soldier to put the study for teens on the back. Remember, soldier comes in different melting temperatures. Hard has the highest melting temperature is the hardest amount, followed by medium and then easy. Soldier has the lowest mounting temperature. So by using mediums soldier first and then following up with easy soldiers with such fittings on the back when I sold the stuff, fittings is not going to re melt the joints, but I'm about to do, and it's not going to school with him. So medium soldiers I've got comes in syringe, just going to squeeze a little bit just inside the filed areas. Okay, so you can see shining more brightly. The filed areas on the soldier is just inside those and now what I need to do is to being careful not to get sold or over may cause that would be a bit of a waste is to put them on the top. But the other pieces of silver that's I've cut off just lined everything up nicely. It's worth taking the time just to check that everything is lined up nicely because I've, though I've got a little bit of extra links on the bottom. Peters silver to play with the pieces of silver are exactly same wits because they've been cut from the same piece of retained of the wire. So I do want to make sure to take the time, just to set everything up so it it is lined up properly. I'm happy with that one. Just make sure I don't knock it a move it out for alignment as I do, then that 2nd 1 So again, Sweeting puts a medium soldier just inside the file. Dairies, sometimes easier to use a soldier pick or another sore, too. Help you line everything up. It's a bit sooner than your fingers. I'm happy both of those. It's time to melt soldier and join the pieces together what I'm going to look out for is a bright line off Morton's soldier coming either end of the hearing. So the soldier is going to flow from just inside the joint through the joint trip here on the other side. When it does that, I know that I'm going to have a nice, strong joint. So do you want to arrange time putting the heat in quite slowly at first? Remember to solder paste might see smoke. There we go much even see a bit of a different kind of flame coming from it. Make sure heating the bottom piece of Silver's wells talk. I've got everything to a nice color. So go chop on bottom just to draw the soldiers. Okay, I'm happy with that. The soldier. The appearance of soldier at either end wasn't very obvious, but it waas there. So if I try and pick the two pieces silver up just by holding on to the top piece, there we go. That's the proof that both come away together even though I'm just holding the top piece. Put that one side for a moment. Undo the secondary, so I'm looking for the silver to go bit of, ah, reddish color. I can see a bit of a reddish tinge that shows me that's getting close to the right temperature. There we go. There was a line of soldier that appeared there more obvious on this one. I go, I'm happy with that. So the next job is to clean thes two earrings up. You see that become rather discolored. Remember, that's happened because there's 7.5% copper in this sterling silver alloy, so they need to be cleaned up the copper for reacted with the heat and auction of flame to cause copper oxides. So I'm going to problem in the quench, particle them down and then put them in the pickle to clean them up before I can finish off the earrings. The next stage after that next stage, finishing him off is to clean up the ends to make sure that there's no excess silver sticking out of the ends. And then it was time to soldier at the stuff it seems on the back 11. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - neatening after soldering: there's one more job to do before soldering the subsurface sings on the back on That's neat ning off the ends of the earrings, making sure that there's none of the excess silver left it either. End. Remember, I cuts the back piece of silver so lightly longer than I needed to just to help with soldering. So now need to make sure that she's know that there are the ends, a nice, neat and you can see on here. Hopefully comparing to this hearing I've sneaked into the ends off. I've also rounded off the corn is just a little bit not very noticeably, but just enough to be able to feel them and make sure they're not sharp if you compare to this one. This hearing has still got a bit of access silver at the end, so need to get rid off the end. Still quite sharp. So I'm going to show you how I got this Siri to this stage again to use six inch file on and find it easier to hold to some midday around them down because I don't want to. But which on the bench? Paige. I could squash it because I'm holding it so firmly. I don't want to do that. Preferred holds two sides and fall off the excess silver who file across that way. Or like so, whichever you find easier we can see. Is it'll part of dust silver? Just appearing already. - Just checking as I work that I'm not putting on angle at the end, but I do want you to be nice, since where I was looking a lot better, the same to the other end. - I'm also just going to file a little bit along the sides because there's a little bit of access soldier that had seeped out. So I want to make sure that I got rid of that. No se to make sure that it is nice and neat along the sides because, however carefully you do line the top and bottom up, we're not. Machines were inhuman, so it's going to be a little bit of our just anything that's swell, good and then the last thing to do. It's just sweet, prevented bonus just to round off ever so slight place to my earrings that more comfortable . It's just also just sweeping across sitter angle at the ends just to get rid of any little birds that might have formed of being firing right, so or nicely filed and needed off one last job on that soldering of fifties on the back to actually turn these into wearable hearings. 12. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - soldering the stud fittings: I've put the earrings upside down on my old beaten up soldering briquettes, a softer one that's got some dips in it. So the curves of the earrings are sitting inside. Dips just make some a lot more stable when I'm soldering. I've also used to Sharpie to put a mark at the top of each hearing, just to remind me exactly where I want to study fittings to be as because the textures I've used has got a distinct direction to it. So I wanted to make sure that your rings were both the same way up. So what was easy Soldier Pace have actually taken the syringe off the end of this one because it's such a tiny syringe on this one. That's such a nice tip to rather that it was actually very difficult to push the soldiers out of it. So it was a little bit of easy soldier on the end, off the start fitting, going to shoot melt that it was a bit into place that stays where I wanted to pay, then hold such fitting on the back of the hearing White stable. That's a bit better. Good put heat into the hearing first because that's the biggest silver. There we go. So see soldier together on ditz. Nice, essential in the right position because I was able to use that Sharpie marks a guide. I heat it up the bigger pieces silver first because that would need the most heat and then put the stud fitting in place. Applied the little bit more heat around the joint on the study that so the soldier flowed quite quickly. That's the first hearing done. Put that one over here as well. That's makes it easier to get to. I need some more soldier. Oops, not that much. You get smelt soldier on there, so it's not going to fall off again. He took the bigger piece of silver first, that you need the most heat, while the most difficult thing sometimes is making sure that you hold this such fitting. Still, on the back of the hearing, whilst the soldier loses its bright appearance, he goes dull again. That shows it's gone solid on the joint should be nice, strong one that is so that needs to go into the quench particle down, just like the first hearing need to put them both in the pickle pot to clean them up again , and then the next job will be to polish them. I'm going to use my tumble polisher to give them a nice shine, but you could use the user polishing cloth instead if you wanted to. 13. Embossed Leaf Stud Earrings - final thoughts: I hope that you enjoy the class. I'm really pleased with the earrings. They are lovely, flattering shape on the in Boston texture adds a little bit of extra interest. Remember, though, that you can hammer the silver instead, or maybe use in texture stunts. You don't have to use the rolling mill, however, If you hammer or use the texture stamps, you're going to have to bend the wire and maybe around a piece of wooden dow to give them a little bit of a curve, because I got the curve from sending silver through the running. Well, as always, I'd love to see what you make, perhaps how you adapt, designed by using different textual it or maybe using different lengths or different wits of wire. The regrets as well. If you could leave a review to help other students, thank you for watching