Knitting for Complete Beginners - How to Knit a Coaster

1. Class Introduction : Hi, I'm Lisa, and welcome to my knitting for Complete beginners class. In this class, we'll look at the basic tools and materials that you'll need to start knitting. We'll then go on to learn basic skills, including how to cast on, how to cast off, and how to make knit and pearl stitches. We'll then put your new skills to use in our class project. For the project, I'll show you how to knit your own courses step by step. 2. Lesson 1 - Materials & Tools: In this first lesson, we're just going to go over which materials and tools you will need for this course. The yarn that I've got here is what's called a double knit yan or a decay yn. What double knit means, it refers to the thickness of the actual piece of yn. Different thicknesses of yan have different names or different weights. You might find that the names vary from country to country, but there are websites such as my own, where you will find a simple chart, which will work as a little bit of a translation for you. It's not too confusing. But for this project, we're going to use double knit. It's about a medium weight yawn. It's between the thinner lace weight yawns, and then you go through the thicknesses up until you get to a chunky yawn. Obviously, the thinner the yawn is, the longer it's going to each knit something. The thicker the on is, the less time it's going to take. People often make things like big chunky blankets with very thick wool because they are very quick to knit up, whereas they will be quite time consuming with a sock weight thin on. With the needles that we have here, they are a pair of four millimeter straight knitting needles. These are what you'll need read to get started. There are lots of different types of knitting needle, but straight ones are the best for when you're beginning when you're learning. The size, again, I mentioned that it was a four millimeter. Obviously, the size of the knitting needle or the thickness of the knitting needle depends on which yon you are using. Smaller needles go with not so thick on, so sock, larger, very wide needles will go with bulky on. Normally, when you buy yawn, you'll find that there is a yawn bowl on the bowl. This one hasn't got one because it's from litlets. But on the yawn bowl, it will explain what thickness the yawn is and also which size of needle will be best suited to that yawn. Same with the needles is with the yawn weights. You will find that in some countries, the knit needle sizes are known by millimeters. Four millimeter in this case. In other countries, they may be known by a letter or a number. Again, there are lots of conversion charts out there for you to find out what the different names mean and how they match up. Again, I've got the whole of that on my website if you need to have a look at it. Again, this is double knit yawn and some four millimeter needles. 3. Lesson 2 - Casting On Stitches: What we're going to learn in this lesson is how to cast on. We need our yarn and our formula and needles. The technique that I'm going to show you to cast on is called a long tail cast on. There are several different ways that you can cast on depending on what project you're working on. However, I think this one is quite easy. It's the one that I was taught by my mom when I was learning. This one I think is the easiest to grasp for a beginner. But if you don't grasp it, there are other methods that you can try. This is just the one that I prefer personally. Now, what you need to do with a long tail cast on, Firstly, we need to leave quite a bit of spare yarn. What I recommend is probably about an inch per stitch that you're going to cast on and a little bit spare. I need to cast on about ten stitches here just for a little test piece that we're going to knit to show you how to knit. If I go for probably about 10 " and c, if I have a little bit spare as well, so I'll that my spare bit. And then I'll probably go about there. If you have got too much, that's fine, you can cut it off, or you can tighten at the ball or later on for you to weave in. However, you want to make sure that you do actually have enough left there to be able to cast on your stitches because we're going to be using both tails that the tail is attached to the ball and this tail with the end, we're going to use both of them to cast on. You need to have enough on this length here. What we first do to cast on, we only need one needle. But firstly, what we do is we need to make a slip knot. To make a slip knot. I wrap it around my fingers like that, and then the n that's behind there. I then pull it through the middle like that. You have a little slip knot. You then put that knot on your one needle like so. Then if you pull on both ends like that, it'll tighten up. Now, you don't want the stitches or the loops to be too tight on your needle, especially when you're learning because when you're knitting, you need to be able to fit your other needle. Through the loop easily, to be able to make your it stitch. I've got a loosen of some either one we're fit in. Don't make them too tight, I don't make them too loose either, just try and get them all about the same tightness. That's your first slip stitch, what we start with. Don't worry of the slides around at the moment, it will. Keep it in place with your finger like that. Now, the way that we do this long tail cast, we've got the ball here. We've got the other spare end across here. You get your hand. And you want to make a bit of a triangle over your fingers. Put one end, the ball end behind your thumb, around your thumb like that. The other end, you can see is going between those two fingers, my middle and this finger. I'm loping around both of them. I then put the son to that finger like that. You've got them looked over the back, so of your two fingers. Then if you use the rest of your hand to hold the two ends. Now, what we're going to do to cast on, I'm going to do this several times. We're going to cast on ten stitches in order to make a little sample piece just so you can learn how to knit. What we're going to do to cast on, that is your first stitch, you slip out there. Then the first thing that you do is you take your needle, the end, put it under that end that's around your thumb. Turn your hand around this one that's over your finger here, put that over the top of the needle like that, and then use your thumb to pull that loop over the end like so, and pull both the ends to tighten it up, but not too tight. You can see that you put two stitches there. What I'm going to do is, I'm just going to repeat that and I'm going to do it. Over and over so that you can see exactly what you need to do to cast on. Just sort my ends out. Normally when I'm casting on, I don't have the ends of this neat, but I'm trying to keep the neat and in the right place so that it's easier for you to see what to do. Get your two threads again around your thumb and this finger like so. Get your needle, hold it with you with the fingers here. Get your needle, put it under that loop that is on your thumb. Use this loop that is over that finger and pull that around the front. And then this loop on your thumb, pull over the end of the needle like that. Slide it up and tighten it, and there is your stitch. You've got three stitches there. Go under the loop on your thumb. The one that's on your finger over the top, and then bring the thumb loop over the end of the needle, drop it, and then tighten it like so. There's number four. By the back of your fingers like that, holding your in your palm of your hand, take the needle. Put it under this loop on your thumb. Pull this thread on this finger over the front of your needle and to the back. Pull this one over the end, drop it and tighten it. T go five there. You can see there that my stitches are I've actually the quite tight put you would just try and do them evenly, so they're all about the same tightness. We've got the five there. I pick them up again, like that. Get your needle, put it under the thumb one, bringing the finger one over the front and towards the back, and the thumb loop round there over the end, drop it and tighten. Let's do it a couple more times so you can just see how we do it. See how many we've got here. I've lost count. I got eight, so I need another two. So put around there, that over the front, and that that. Round over the, tailor over the end, drop it and tighten. We should then have our ten stitches. I've got the ten. They're evenly spaced out. If you need to do this, ten times, that is absolutely fine. If you need to unravel it and do it again, watch this video over and over, that is fine. It will take a little while to grasp it. But once you have, you'll be absolutely flying. If you just cast down with that method, you'll see I've got bit of left, but I haven't got tons, and I need B, you can cut that, or like I say, we can tie into a little bow later on. But if you start off by casting on u ten stitches and then in the next lesson, we will learn how to do it stitch. 4. Lesson 3 - Knit Stitch: Now that we've got our ten cast on stitches there, we're going to now learn how to do in that stitch. What we need is we obviously need other needle here. O ball of yarn, we're going to put over here to the right. The needle that has your cast on stitches needs to be in your left hand and your other one in your right. Now, what the first thing that you'll need to do for a nit stitch is get this needle, your right needle, and pop it into that loop in the front like so. It goes through the loop and towards the back. This that loop in the back. Now, you see how I've managed to pop that straight through because that loop is not very tight. As I was saying when you cast on, try and leave them really, really loose, just a medium tension on these loops. B if you make them too tight, it'll make it very hard to get your needle into your cast on stitches and that isn't helpful when you're n. If you find that you've cast them on too tightly, that's absolutely fine. Just pull them off the needle. So unravel your thread, yawn, sorry, and pass them on again. I'll just quickly pass this on again. This is just going to be a really little piece of knitting. But you can see they're all evenly space there. Going back to what we were doing with our needle. Keep this spare end of yawn just out the way. You want your loops relatively close to the end of your needle, but not so close that they're going to fall off when you knit. I I hold my knit needles a little bit strangely apparently. I do tend to hold higher up. But your first step is get your right needle with your cast on stitches on your left needle, your other right needle, pop it into the loop like so. It's going to the underneath, and then what we're going to do is, we're going to take a hold of this right working end of the yarn. Now, you always want to try and hold onto this piece of yarn with the same tension. You don't want to pull it really tightly sometimes and have it really slack like that other times, you want to have it about the same tightness on your finger forgot your knitting. Otherwise, you will get bits of knitting where it bunches up, looks very tight or it might look very gay it's called holing. To make sure it looks just nice and even with no holes. You always try and hold this the same. What I do is, I have the on over my finger there like that. Then I tend to try and loop it around my finger. Sometimes they actually loop it around twice because I'm quite a slack knitter. I find it slips through my fingers and that I need to hold on it a little bit more tightly. But for yourself, try with just around your finger the once like that, just litle around. Then if you close your hand on the end like that, you don't want to have it I have it out here. You also don't want up here. You want somewhere in the between that you are comfortable with holding it. Create the kit. Once your needle is through this sch here. What we are then going to do is take this yarn with this hand. We're going to take it around the back of this back needle. Around the back, we can see there around the back like so. You'll be able to see there that there is that's the working end there. We've looked it me drop my stick. That around the back of your needle. Then what we then do is our right needle. We pull it like so through this loop that we've got on the left needle. It will catch. You see this sloop here that's on that needle there, that is attached to your working end. That's the loop that you've just created. You pull that up onto your right needle and then you use hand to then pull this loop off this Back needle like that, and you've now knit the stitch and you've transferred it onto the other needle. Then we do for the second one is, do the same again, insert through the back like so. Use on to go round underneath the needle. Bring your needle through and pull that loop there that you've just made th, then slide that other one off the end. You can see that my it is a little bit loose there just because I need to pull this string to tighten my first stitch. Again, in there with the needle underneath. Take your yarn round and under the back needle and across to form this loopia. And then now that we've got the loop on the right needle, we pull along and we pull that off the left needle there. Being very careful not to pull these other noted stitches with them. We'll just keep going, so put needle in around the back. Pick the stitch and slip the one off there. Into the front and underneath. Around, pick up this stitch, take off the other needle. Needle in around the back needle. Pick up the loop. Pull the stitch off there. Put it in around the back. Pick, slide off. I, pick up slide. Around, pick up, slide on the last stitch. Put the needle in around the back with the working on, pick that up there and then slide the last stitch off. And there you will see, even though it's very little, you've got your first row of knitted stitches. You'll see there that you've got this little row of bumps. That is your knitted stitch. What we're going to do is, I'm going to do a couple more rows and you'll be to see how it starts to form. Once you've got to the end of your knitting, row, that's a row that we refer to. Once you've got the end and you've got all of your stitches from your left needle on your right needle, what you then do is switch this needle in your hands. You would then put this into your left hand. This is the end that we're not using. That's now we cross there again. Your working on is on the right again. Take your second needle. Then as we did before, you just pop it in through the underneath to the back, pick up around your finger. Keep hold of it not too tight, not too loose. It around the back like so, bring it through, pick it up and slide that off. That's all you do at the end of every row is just turn the needle around, put it in your other hand and repeat what you've just done. It's as easy as that when you're just knitting knit stitches. In around the back off. I'll do these quite slowly. I'm not a fast knitter. I've been knitting for ten years and I'm really slow compared to a lot of people, but I'll slow this down a little bit more. So you can see what I'm doing. I'm basically just knitting all of these stitches like we did in the first row. I went through the last one around and of. Now got two s like so see, I've got a little bit of a loose bit there. Obviously, one of my cast on stitches wasn't quite tight enough. But you can say all of the other ones, so all of this little twisted edge here are all really even. That means that the stitches that I cast on were all about the same tension part from maybe the first one, which that's not abnormal. Then you can see here that when I've done two rows of knitting, you can see on this n. There's one row of little bumps and then you've got another little row of bumps that are in between above. That is your second row of knitting. When you look at the back, the back will look exactly the same. This is how we do knit stitch. What I'm going to do is, I'm just going to knit a few more rows, I'm going to speed it up a little bit. Just so you can see again how it's done. Like I said, don't be afraid to watch these videos ten times if you need to. That's absolutely fine. We'll start on row number three. We've swapped this into our other hand, and we've picked up this with our right hand and we're just going to knit all of these stitches. That's three roles done. It's important to add that you cast on stitches that you do with your loops. When you first cast on they are not class as a role. Just the ones you actually knit with your needles are class as roles. We've got three there. I'll do role number four. That's number four C and see there now that you've got two, two rows there, and each rows got two lines of wibb stitches. They are your nit stitches. You've got one line there with two rows of knit. That's two rows together, and then another role with two, that means you've done four s. That's how you count your rules. You count these tiny bobbly bits. And just do a couple more rows and then I'll show you what it looks like. Now got six rows there, and you can tell us you've got three rows of two bumps. That's what it looks like on the front and it looks identical on the back. That is your it stitch. 5. Lesson 4 - Purl Stitch: What we're going to learn in this lesson is how to perl stitch. What I'm starting off with again here is ten cast on stitches. I unraveled my little knit piece and cast on ten again, and we'll start by knitting one row firstly. We'll go to knit all the stitches like we did in the last lesson. You've got your first row of knit stitches. Same as when you're knitting, change hands with the needle. This one is now in your left hand. Pop y around your finger again. Now this time, instead of going in like that for a stitch and throw it underneath, we are going to go from that was direction. For a pill, you go this way. On the front of the needle and back towards your right needle is on the top. You would do that. What you do is you hold a yawn in the same way with your hand around your finger like so. But instead of having your yawn back here, you have it in front. You pop your needle into your loop across that way to the left. Then you get your yawn. We wrap it around the back of this front needle, and then we just take this, catch the loop like you did with the it stitch, pull it through that way, and then we slide this loop off the end. It's basically a it stitch reversed. Instead of doing it through the back, you do everything through the front. We go into this front loop with the needle like this. Then we take the around this front needle, around the back of it. We take our needle down, we catch that loop there. Once we've caught the loop lets on the right needle, we take the old one and we slide off the left needle, being careful not to slide these unworked stitches off. In the front so around like that. Catch that with that needle. Slide that one off. In the front, around the back. Catch the loop. Slide that off. I'll just do the next you slowly see it and see, take that around there. Into the front like so. Around the back. Catch that loop that you've just made, take this one off the back. I use my thumb a lot to aid my motion with my needles. I'm trying to keep it out the way. You insert it like that, around the back, pick the loop hole, take the loop off the end like that. Next stitch, around the back off through the front. Like so around the back. Catch the stitch and off we go. That is the first row of pill stitches. You'll see on this side, it looks pretty much the same. You've got your lines of bumps. They're a little bit tighter together than they are on the knitted piece. But if you turn them over, It looks completely different. You've got a little v stitches. This is known as stocking stitch or stock a net stitch. Depending on where you come from. What I'll do is I'll do a couple more rows to show you and then you'll see more clearly what it looks like. But the basis of doing a pearl stitch is so that it's re so that you get all of the bubbles on one side and these V stitches on the other. That then makes a piece that looks a little bit different and you would alternate one row of knit and one row of pearl. We've done our knit row first, we've just done our per row. What we need to do now is another knit row. If you see these little s facing you, that means you have to knit. I'll just go ahead and knit it we knit it like normal like we did in the first lesson. Around my finger and knit them like normal. That's our next row done. When you turn it over, you'll see all the bumps are on the back again. For row number four, we are going to pi. When these little bumps are facing you, you are doing pearl stitch. That keeps all the bumps on one side and all the vas on the other. We'll do this p row again. Insert your needle, pick up your yawn. Needle through the front, on runs back, pick it up, slide it off. Throw around, pick it up, slide it off. T throw around, pick it up, slide it off. You're starting to see here a bit more. You've got all the vs on this side, and you've got them on that side. See the little V stitches there and the little bumps, the stitches on the back. What I'm going to do is I'm quickly going to knit a few more rows, I'll speed it up, but I'm n when I can see the Vs on this side, I am doing a row of stitching, and when I can see these bumps on facing me, I am doing a row of p. Two more rows there and you can see the Vs all lining up on that side and the little bumps on the. This is stock an stitch where you ate one row of kit when you have these Vs facing you, and when you have the way around, and you can see these bumps facing you, you would p, and it would come out like that. If you would to p all of stitches, you pulled every single row, it would just look exactly the same. This is what you get with the stu inch of alternate. That's just a bit neater and it's just li a bit flatter rather than being bumpy, but there we go that stu and we'll use that in the pattern which we're going to use to make the co set in the next lesson. 6. Lesson 5 - Making a Coaster Class Project: In this lesson, we are going to make a corer. It's just going to be a simple knit square that we're going to make using the knit stitches and the pole stitches that we've learned, and we're going to put a little border around the square. The first thing that we need to do is you need to get and needle and cast on stitches. I'll just speed this up while I cast on, but I'm just using the method the long tail method that I mentioned before, making sure that I have a long enough piece for 30 stitches. Much longer than I have for ten, and I'll just fast forward this while I cast on my 30 stitches. Now that I have my 30 stitches. I am now going to knit my first row. Again, if you need to push on the it stitch, have another look at the video for kit stitch and perl stitch before we equal ahead with this. Make sure that you've got them clear in your head before we start. We're going to knit our first three rows. I'll just go and knit first three. Okay, see see there now that I have knitted my first three rules. I've got my three rows bump I've knitted all three of those rows, all 30 of my stitches. Now, the next row is going to be slightly different, and this is how we form our border around this coaster. This might seem like it's quite big at the minute, but it'll probably get a little bit smaller as we keep knitting, so probably won't come out wide at the finish. But it's going to be quite big coaster, but what we're going to do with is we're going to make a border with knit stitches and have the middle is going to be stock net. The way we're going to do that is We start our next role. First four stitches are going to be knitted. So we need to do four. We'll knit our first stitch, second stitch, third stitch, and our fourth stitch. Then what we're going to do is, we are then going to p the rest of the stitches until we've got four left in our needle. We're going to pull the next 22 stitches. The weight you change from knitting to pling, you bring a yawn and bring it around the back of your right needle and through the middle of the two. It's now at the front. And then ad just like so to repeat, you're knitting, you have a yawn there, but to switch to pull, you bring it around the back of this needle and in the middle of the two and around the front. I taking that back up on my hand. I'm going to pull the next 22 stitches. See we'll find now that you've got more stitches on your needles, you will have to keep adjusting, moving your stitches on there along and the stitches on the left hand needle upwards the end, but not too far. You don't want them to fall off. Keep pling. I've got one more pile stitch to my last pole, and then you can see that there is four stitches left on there. We just move these long and tidy them up. Now I'm going to switch from pile stitch back to knit stitch. Remember the way that we moved our on from the back to the front, we're just going to do that in reverse. We've got our here. We are going to take it through the middle of the two needles, through the back and around the back of the right one. We're ready to knit again. We're going to knit these last four stitches. We're going to n, knit the last four. So now knit our last four stitches. Looks sim there, but when we turn it over, you will just see the beginning of the border. You see this tiny bit here stocking stitch. On this next, we're going to knit our first four stitches again. So the first four Then because we want this to be stuck on the stitch, we actually need to knit all the ones in the middle that we pilled before, so that all the bumps are on the back. We're just going to knit to the end because the last four stitches in the row will knit anyway, and we want them all to be knit on every row. We'll knit this entire row. I now knit that wall row. See that this p in the middle, this little square in the middle. That's starting is starting to get a bit bigger and you're starting to see the knit border. Again, it's all going to look pretty the, a little bit different along that edge on the back. But on the back. What I'm going to do is I'm going to continue to repeat those two rows. I'll go over them a couple of times with you. The first, we're going to do, when you've got the side facing to with the bumps, you are going to do your row where you do four knit stitches, then you change the pill and you do 22 stitches, and then you knit your last four. This is what's called the wrong side. The reason it's called the wrong side is this is going to be the back when you use your coaster. That's going to be down on the table and you're going to see this pretty little border is going to be upright and that is called the right side. When the wrong side is facing you, You can do your role where you do the four it stitches, 22 pi and four it on the edge for your border. Now, if you want to, you can actually mark this side, if you're unsure, which is the right and wrong side. You can mark that with a stitch marker if you want to which I think I might do, and just make a bit clearer for you. I've just done my role with my four knit border stitches, my 22 pearl in the middle and then my four at the end. You can see I have marked this side, which is the wrong side. It's got all those bumps facing you. I've marked that with this little stitch marker. A stitch marker is basically just like a little clip. You can get different styles of the t and get ones that sit on your needle, but if you want to mark the right and wrong side, one like this is quite good. You just basically pull it through the stitches like that and do it up a bit like st pin or a nappy pin. These ones are just little by ones. Yeah, I'm just more less that. When I can see that, I do my what you call fancy on my boarder roll the one where I'm doing pull knit stitches, and when I turn it over and I can only see that little part of the stitch marker and I can see the stitches, the stocking stitches. That is when I just knit all the stitches. What I'm going to do is, I'm going to continue this until it starts to get square. And then we'll show you how to do the next border. I'll just fast forward this a little bit while I do my next couple of rows. And see that I have now completed a 30 rows of this section where we were doing a border of four stitches in it and then pull in the middle for the 22 stitches there and four stitches on this border. I see now that I've done 30 rows in that pattern alternating that with a row of kit on the other side. I have now got this n and I square in the middle, that stocking stitch with this lovely border of knit stitch around the edge. After we've knit our 30 stitches, we're going to now knit the border at this end before we cast off our stitches and finish this up. What we're going to do is we are going to knit another three rows of just plain knit to try and create this border at this end as well. What I'll do is, we're just going to knit this like normal, I'll speed this little bit up. You can see that I've now knit three more rows at this end just in it stitch, so you've got a little border like you have at the start. By the time we cast that off, it'll be about the same size. You can see now that you've got the border on the two sides and the border on the top and the bottom. In the next video, what I'm going to show you is how to cast off your stitches. 7. Lesson 6 - Casting off: Okay. In this video, what I'm going to teach you how to do is to cast off your stitches, which is basically where we take these stitches off this needle. And we knit them so that they're fastened off so that you can just sew in your ends of your yarn, and you've got a finished item. We'll go through this. I'll go through it quite slowly and I'll go through it quite a few times, but if you need to watch this lot of times over and over, don't worry about that. You will get the hand of it eventually. The first thing that you do is you pick up n and your needle as if you are going to knit normally and you knit your first stitch. We've knit like normal. You then need to knit another stitch. You can see that you've now got two stitches there that you've knitted. What you then need to do, and this is the important part, make sure you've knitted both the stitches and then you pick up this first stitch, say, pick that up with your other needle. The first stitch. Then if you pull it over the top like so of the second stitch, pull it off the end of your right needle and off your left needle and drop it. That is your first stitch cast off. You can see there that you've got the loop there. That is actually the loop of your first stitch. You can see it goes around the back and it has looped around this second stitch. We do that with all of them. From now on, we've got the existing second stitch there on the needle. What we're going to do is we're going to knit one more stitch. And then you do the same again. The one that you've got furs towards yourself, the one that you've nit first out the two, you pick it up with your needle, pull it over the top and over off the end of the needle and drop it. You've now got the 22 loops there that I cast off. I'll keep doing them and I'll go through what I'm doing. It the stitch as normal, lift up the first of the two stitches. That's closest to you. Put over the top of the stitch over the top of the end of that needle and drop it. It go do the stitch before. This one, pull over the end, drop it. You will find that this slides around a little bit on this needle just because that's a bit loose and because you've only got the one or two stitches on there. That's fine, be careful not to pull it off the end. I just try and hold it a little bit with my thumb. But just keep going. We do this with all of them. Knit the stitch. Pick up the one before, pull it over that stitch and off the end and it loops around the back leg so I'll just keep casting the off. I cast off the next few so that you can see, and then I'll fast forward things a bit to the point where I've got them all done. You can see that I've cast off all of these stitches, and I'm left with just this one on my needle. What you need to do here is, leave this one on your needle, the end that's attached to the ball. If we cut a length, but leave enough to, we then we're going to loop The tail of the yard that you've just cut and we're going to just put it through this slip lot. We just feed that through the loop, see it straight through the slip knot, and then we just take that needle out and you just pull your slip lot like so and tighten it up. There you go. We cast off. See that got a really nice neat edge where you've casted it off. I actually looks quite similar to the edge that you've cast on. You want to make sure that when you are casting off like when you're casting on, you want to make sure that you keep the same tension on your needles as best you can so that you don't get really tight cast off stitches because it'll pull the end in and it'll look narrower at the end. What we're going to do now is in the next video, I'm going to show you how to finish off your cos. What we need to do to completely finish the cos. 8. Lesson 7 - Finishing Your Coaster: In this video, you're going to show you how to finish off your coaster. What you'll need is to do this is just a pair of scissors. These are little sawing sissy are quite sharp. But as long as you've got any sizes, that's fine, Kitchen izz, no problem. And also, you will need a needle with a wide eye, fit on through it. You see this one's got a slightly curved end. That's just quite good for swing your ends in. But again, as long as you've got a needle with a wide eye like that, that is fine, it doesn't have to have a curved end. The first thing I'm going to do to finish off is, I'm going to remove this stitch marker that we had from before. I'll just unclip that. Go put that over there. Now, what I had done with the start cast on tail is I had just tied it in a little bowl, so I'll just untie this. What we need to do is we need to both these tails. This thing we're going to do is just the bridge beyond through the needle. Six it's got a big eye stead easy. Then we're going to do is just weave this end in here. A lot of people will do this differently. We'll sew and ends differently. There's a lot of different ways to do it. I just try and make it as neat as possible. Always do it on the wrong side on the underside, that's the side that's going to be on the table. So you want to hide it. Basically just as you'll say, just picking up a couple of stitches like that on my needle going through under them, and just weaving the end up and down through them as neatly as I can. It's actually a bit easier to do on the kit side anyway, then if you're trying to do this with stock and stitch. I'm just going backwards and forwards, up and down. You can't really see where I've done it. Maybe two more times up that direction. Pull it through. Then I think if I go this way, back down. Go. Se that's nice and you can't see it there. I just pull that through. Again, I don't want to do it to text, I don't want it to gather it in. I asks us. If we just click as close as we can, towards a piece of work, but not so close that you cut your work, obviously, be very careful snip it off. Then you can see if you just smooth it out, you can't even see where it's been. We just repeat this with the other end. Just get rid of that bit. It doesn't really matter how much of a cast on you had because anything when you've finished sawing it in, you just cut it off anyway. If you've got to so that's absolutely fine. Same with when you've cast it off, you can see got quite a big bit here. Because this is a little bit loose where I've cast my last stitch. I'm actually going to try and just tighten this up while I weave it as well. I'm going to do the same thing. I'm just picking up and going through this direction first. But just while I do it, I'll just try and in the edge a little bit see that's already pulled it together quite well. Perhaps I just take it down the edge a little bit more through maybe another two. That's just pull on that corner in tight. So It's just gathered together a bit better. Then I'll go back this way. Three this time that way. Pull the end through, tight, but not too loose. Then if I go back in the other direction, do that way. And then I'll go back up towards the send. Let's go back to that we like that. I see how that's sitting before got the end off. It's a little bit tights not quite perfect, but it's good enough for me. What we'll do is now that we've that back and four was four or five times, I'll just click that off close to my work. G rid of my needle. And there you can see that is now finished. Now. You'll notice that the edges are cling up. That's perfectly normal. What you can do is if you just dampen this with either a water spray or just pop it into a sink of water for a couple of seconds just to dampen it off a little bit. Then you can do what it called blocking. You basically wet it and then you pull it out into the correct shape you want it to be. You're not stretching it, but you're just stretching to the corners to make it out straight like that, and then you can either pin it down, you can get specialist blocking boards or just like the foam Jigsaw play mats that you get, so you can use that's what I use. I basically would get one of them and just dampen it, pop it on top and then pin it under the foam mat. O weigh it down. You can do it that way as well. There are lots of different ways to block block things, which I think I might going into another class. But really just so that you've got something so that you can weigh it down because it's going to be a coaster. As long as you've got something, that's going to weigh down. And straight in these edges, that is fine. It's not as important to block this as it would be say a jump or a piece of clothing. That has to be a particular shape. But there you go. There is your finished cos with all the ends and everything sewn in. Feel free to play around with this. If you want to make smaller ones, you can just do less stitches in the middle and less rows. You'll see it just about square, so it doesn't have to be a per better square. But it's just about square. If you want to adjust it and do it, that's fine. If you want to do it where it's all just it stitch, that's absolutely fine too, or if you want to try one that's all stock net stitch. Just play around with it and just practice this, and then you obviously then red to perhaps making other things. If you can make a square like this, you can very easily make a scarf. You could very easily make squares like this and then stitch them together to make a blanket, which is a really good idea for beginners. You could just say make lots of these and then stitch the edges together and then make a Patrick blanket, which would be really nice. You can do anything you want. If you have any questions or any queries about anything that I've taught you in this course, just drop a question in the discussion tab below. If you want to find out about new courses that I add on a weekly basis, then if you just click the follow button, you'll then be notified when I add extra classes. I will be putting new classes on every week and I'll be covering lots of different topics. Thanks for watching Bye 9. Thank You!: Thanks so much for taking my knitting for a complete beginners class. I really hope that you've enjoyed learning to knit. Don't forget to add photos of your finished coasters to the class project section. It really is lovely to see everybody's finished work. If you'd like to see more of my knitting and crochet classes, please take a look at my skill share profile.