How to Scan and Edit Your Hand Drawn Art

1. Intro: Hello, my name is Till, and I'm an artist and graphic designer. I have been creating pen, ink, and watercolor sketches since 2009. In this class, I want to show you how to use a scanner to scan your art. Do some basic edits to make your art look better and also fix some mistakes that may appear during the scanning process. Now, this class is for beginners. To follow along, you will need a scanner. If you don't have a scanner, there is actually a lesson where I talk about the features you should look for before you buy our scanner. The software I'm using in this clause is Photoshop. By the way, this class is actually the extended version of a shorter video, I have in my sketchbook and costs where I also talked about scanning. In that shorter lesson, I was using the software Affinity Photo, which is a graphic design software that you can purchase with a one-time payment. Now Photoshop is a monthly subscription app where you have to pay monthly, so you are just doing the occasional scans and add dates. It may not be worth it to buy Photoshop, so do checkout Affinity Photo as well. If you are using Affinity photo, you can actually just go watch that shorter lesson. The content in this course or this class is going to be quite similar to that lesson where I was using Affinity Photo because most of their functions and the features of all is graphic design software that's used to edit scans. They are quite similar. 2. Scanners: Let's talk about scanners first, there are two types of technology used by scanners. The first is CCD charge-coupled device and the second is CIS contact image sensor. There are pros and cons to each type of technology. The advantages of CCD would be higher scanning speed, better signal-to-noise ratio, better color accuracy, and higher depth of field. The advantages of CIS scanners, such as the ones that I have here would be lower cost. They are more compact, and they still produce pretty good scanning image quality. To me, the main difference between CCD versus CIS is the depth of view the scanner can capture. As the name of contact image sensors suggests, you need to have the artwork or whatever you're scanning in contact with the glass surface, when you're scanning to produce the best quality. However, that may not be possible all the time. Here's a spiral-bound sketchbook that I have. If I scan this page on this CIS scanner, this area here where the paper is near the binding, these paper surface will not be in contact with the scanning surface and the scan will appear to be blur around this area, which is what we do not want because we want this image to be sharp. If you look at the left side of this scan that I have here, you can see that area there is blurry and this is of course, unacceptable. If you use spiral ball sketchbooks, this is definitely something you need to know in advance. If you do use wire ball sketchbooks, I recommend you don't create your art so near to the wire binding. Some sketchbooks may not open completely flat and those sketchbooks will have issues with CIS scanners. For example, if you are to scan this sketchbook, you can see the area here is actually not in contact with the surface. This huge area here, if there is any art that's drawn across the pages, they will appear to be blur in the scan. If you work with watercolor, you will know that watercolor paper can buckle. When scanning watercolor artworks, make sure to press down on the cover of the scanner to make sure that the whole piece of paper is in contact with the scanning surface. Otherwise, the scan may have certain areas which are blur. CIS scanners can produce very high-quality scans as well, and those are the ones that I would recommend to beginners because of their affordability. You can usually find a good CIS scanner for under 100 to $250. These scanners are very compact, so they don't really take up much space in your room or on your table. If you want a better image quality, then maybe consider CCD scanners. But those are going to be more expensive and bulky. I have been using CIS scanners for several years and I'm quite satisfied with the image quality. Sometimes the image quality between CIS versus CCD is not that noticeable unless you have two scans side-by-side to compare. The keywords to look out for when buying a scanner, are photo scanner. Do not buy documents scanners because these are not meant to scan artworks. If you take a look at this design here, you can see that you won't be able to fit a sketchbook through this scanner. Also sometimes if you require scanning multiple pages or multiple artworks to stitch together, this is not going to do a good job. The optical resolution here is 600, which is actually alright. However, I would highly recommend you get a scanner that can scan at least 1,200 dpi and above, in terms of the optical resolution. I have no experience with three-in-one scanners. Those scanners that can print, scan and copy, so I can't say too much about their scan or the print quality. Take, for example, this scanner which has a scan resolution up to 2400 dpi, which is fantastic. However, the resolution that the scanner can scan may not translate to the quality of the scan. If you do want to buy such scanners, I highly recommend you check out online reviews written by artists themselves. A scanner where the lid or the cover can be opened can be used to scan sketchbooks, and it's also easier to clean the scanning surface of such scanners. For scanners where you feed the paper in, you cannot open the scanner to clean the parts of that scans because that part can get dirty quite easily. For example, if you are scanning pencil artworks and some of the graphite actually came off the paper surface, which is very common, in this case, you won't be able to clean the inside of the scanner. Some good scanners for scanning artworks that I recommend would be the Canon LiDE or the Canon LiDE series, which is the one that I have here, or the Epson V series. Most scanners are made to scan A4-sized paper. [NOISE] Here I have an A4-sized paper pad. A4 size is 29.7 by 21 centimeters or 11.7 by 8.3 inches. If you need to scan paper sizes that are larger, [NOISE] such as this, 9 by 12-inch paper pad here. This is not going to fit, so you will have to scan this two times. I probably won't recommend you buy a larger scanner unless you need to scan large pieces of artworks very regularly because A3 size scanners are several times more expensive compared to A4 size scanners. In the next lesson, we are going to scan our art so it's time to take out your sketchbook or your art. 3. Before you scan: Welcome back. In this lesson, I want to show you the things you need to do in order to get a good scan. This is the sketch that I'm going to scan. It's a pen, ink, and watercolor sketch drawn across two pages in this A5 size sketchbook. The horizontal width here is actually longer compared to the horizontal width of the scanner, which means I need to scan this in two passes and stitch the two scans together later on. Sometimes I would include the color swatches that I use for my sketch. You can choose to include this in your scan or you can choose to leave this out. The first thing to do is to clean the scanning surface, otherwise, the dust may be captured in the scan as well. You can also use tape to remove the dust. Your scanner may have some markings on the frame or the edge to tell you where to place the paper. There's an arrow here, which means I should place my paper towards this corner. Because this sketch was drawn and painted across two pages, the scans will need to have a good amount of overlap so that I can stitch them together easily. With this sketch, I have to scan the first time like this, and the second time like this. The first time I will be scanning this, and the second time I will be scanning this, so the overlap is actually this huge area here. I can certainly scan the sketchbook like this and like this, but the overlap will be quite small. It will be this small area, compared to if I use the horizontal width of the scanner, I can get the overlap to be this big. When you are scanning multiple pages so that you can stitch them later on, it's very important to make sure to align the edge of the paper or the sketchbook to the edge of the scanner here, make sure there's no gap there. Usually, I will push my sketchbook all the way to the edge there, and then press it down so that the paper is in contact with the glass surface. After you scan the first page with the second pass, you should also push the edge of the paper to the edge of the scanner. If you scan the second pass like this, you will have to rotate the scan later on in your software to match the first angle, and it's very difficult to get the angles to align perfectly. If you do it right at the first time during the scanning process, you don't have to do the rotation with your software later on. But anyway, there are some scanners with removable covers or lids to allow you to scan sketchbooks more easily. This sketchbook has a cover that can bend all the way to the back, which is great. But if you have a sketchbook where you cannot bend the cover, then this scanner will not be able to scan that sketchbook. 4. Settings: Let's take a look at the settings to use for scanning. Make sure you have your scanning software installed and open. By the way, the app that I'm using here is Image Capture on Mac OS. Let's take a look at the settings at the right side here. Regardless of the scanning software you use, you should have access to these settings. Let's choose to scan a color image. Do not scan black and white, do not scan text documents. Scan a color image. For resolution, I highly recommend you choose at least 300 DPI. Nowadays I scan at 600 DPI, which is dots per inch. Resolution is the amount of detail the scanner can capture. The higher the resolution, the more detail your scan will be. However, the file size will also be larger. Here you can choose to scan a custom size or a custom area on your scanner. Since this is an A4 scanner, I shall just choose to scan the whole A4 size. You don't have to bother about orientation, because we can change the orientation or rotate the scan using our graphic design software later. This is where I will save my scan, and this is the file name. For the file format there are actually several options here. The file format that will give you the best image quality is TIFF. Other file formats will compress the image and will affect the image quality. We'll choose TIFF. Here I will uncheck Combine into a single document, because when scanning we want the scans to be separate. This is quite useful when you are scanning text document, for example, you want to scan multiple pages to combine into a single PDF. You can do so by checking this checkbox here. For image correction, we want to choose None, because we want to do our own image correction using the graphic design software. We should always use manual settings for scanning. Sometimes depending on the type of document you scan, the settings may be locked. Just use manual settings or user custom settings. Now that we have our settings selected, let's scan. Make sure to flush the edge off the paper to the edge of the scanner and press down lightly so that the paper is fully in contact with the scanning surface and scan. [NOISE] Don't press down too hard, otherwise the glass may actually come into contact with this movable part and prevent it from moving. Just press down gently. [NOISE] If you are scanning a piece of paper, you can just close the cover to press down the paper rather than use your hands. This is the second pass. Again, make sure you push the edge of the paper to the edge of the scanner. There is this small area here where the scan will not work, so I have to push my sketchbook slightly away from the edge here. Make sure to press down the whole sketchbook, especially near the edge of the scanner. [NOISE] 5. Stitching multiple scans: Let's take a look at the scans that I have imported into Photoshop. First thing we need to do is to rotate the image. But before we do that, let's reset our workspace so that we are all working with the same workspace. Go into the Photoshop manual, window, workspace, and click on "Essentials". If you are already using the essentials workspace, click on "Reset Essentials". This is to make sure that it's easier for you to find out where I'm clicking. Let's rotate this scan. Let's go into the manual again. Image, image rotation, and this needs to be rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise. That's for the scan that I have. You may have to rotate it clockwise or counterclockwise depending on how your scan turns out. For the other scan, the second scan, I need to rotate these counterclockwise as well. Now if you scan a lot, you can actually set keyboard shortcuts to this rotation functions. I actually I have one set here to arbitrary which I'm going to show you what it does later on. It's actually very useful. This one has to be rotated counterclockwise as well. Next thing to do is to paste the second scan over to this first scan. We need to enlarge this Canvas first. Let's go into the manual, image, Canvas size and click on it. Shown here are the exact dimensions in terms of pixels for this particular scan. I want to increase the width to 200 percent. Let me just change the units here to percent. I'm going to click the anchor point here so that Canvas size will increase to the right side. You can tell by where the Canvas were increased by the arrows here. I'm going to click "Relative" here, that's a checkbox here, relative. Let's click "100 percent". Now you can see the Canvas has double the size in width. Go back to your other scan. Hit the shortcut control A or command A or you can go into the menu and select all and copy which is control C or command C. That's the keyboard shortcut. Go into your other scan and paste, which is control V or command V. Now that we have the scan here, it's just going to appear like this. I'll just push it down. You can use your arrow keys to nudge it down pixel by pixel. Photoshop actually has snapping, which will snap the file to the edge of the Canvas. If snapping is not turned on, you can go into view and snap. Now it snaps together at the bottom. Next thing to do is to zoom in. To move around the Canvas, you can press the space bar and just move with your mouse. You will see the hand cursor moving around. To zoom in, just press space bar and control or space bar and command and use your mouse to zoom in. Or you can click your mouse to zoom in step-by-step. Here, as you can see, the scan on the right side is blur. I need to delete the blur area, remove the blur area. To remove the blur area, just go into your toolbar on the left side. Click on the rectangular marquee tool and just select this blurred area on the right side and delete. Now when we zoom in, we can see both scans are sharp. Now all we need to do is to align both the scans. I'm going to use this area here for alignment. You see this black area here. I'm just going to use my arrow key to push the top scan down. Makes sure that you have selected the correct layer where your scan is on. If you select the bottom scan, pushing the arrow key will push the bottom scan. I want to use the scan at the top, so select the top layer, and just push it on top of the second scan. Make sure they align properly. This seems like good enough for me. Zoom out, which is control 0 or command 0 to take a look. You have to zoom in and zoom out occasionally just to check your image to see whether you have done the correct alignment. This looks good enough for me. Next, let's crop the scan to remove the unwanted parts. To crop the scan, we can click on the crop tool button, which is on the toolbar on the left side or you can press the keyboard shortcut C. I'm just going to press the keyboard shortcut C and move the crop, resize the crop to the image that you want. Make sure you don't crop away the things that you want. You can zoom in while you're still in the crop tool just to check and see if you have cropped correctly. This looks good enough for me. Let me just press "Enter" or you can click on the little check mark at the top there. Let's zoom out again to take a look. This scan looks pretty nice. Next, let's save the file in case things happen. I'm going to save as a Photoshop file. You can save it as a TIFF as well. TIFF files can save the layers as well. I usually save it as a Photoshop file. Always be saving your files just in case things happen. 6. Basic edits: Next, we will look at the details that we have with the scan. You can see the watercolor paper texture captured really nicely. There's a lot of detail. This looks great. However, if you want to print your art at a printer shop, you may want to remove all this texture because you will probably want to use the texture of the physical paper rather than this digital texture of the scan. Also, you can see there is this slide blemish here, which could be due to my scanner being dirty or maybe it's just a blemish on the paper on my sketch book. You can actually remove that if you want to. First, let's maybe just remove the paper texture and enhance the colors and the contrast of this sketch. The thing I look out for when editing the scans is to match the colors that I see on the display to the colors that I see on my sketch book. There are actually many ways to remove that paper texture, let me just show you one way. Go into the menu. Under Layer, look for New Adjustment Layer. Here there are many options. You can use levels or you can use curves to remove the paper texture. I'm going to use levels. Now in Photoshop, there are many ways to do the same thing. You can also remove the paper texture by just using the eraser tool to erase the texture, but using levels or curves to adjust the image is a bit easier. Let's click "Okay" here and a new adjustment layer will appear at the layers palette on the right side. Let's look at the properties palette, which is above. You can see this curve here, this is basically the color data of the scan. Under the curve, there are three control points which you can move around. I'm going to move the left control point, which is black, and this will adjust the midtones to the shadows, to the darker areas. Basically, you will make those areas darker. If you push it all the way to the right side, you can see it's going to make the darker areas even darker. I'm going to push it to the point where the curve starts to go up very sharply. For the paper texture, which is white, we need to use the control point on the right side to control or to adjust the highlighted areas, the lighter colors. Just push it to the left side until you no longer see the paper texture. You can also use the control point in the middle to increase the contrast. There will be some compromise because if you push the control point to remove the paper texture, it's also going to affect the clouds, which are very light in terms of value. So just push the control point to the extent where the paper texture can no longer be seen. But you also don't want to remove the clouds, so let me just push it to this extent here. I can still see some paper texture, and this is where you have to go in manually to remove the texture. What you can do is create a new layer, go to the layers palette at the bottom right side, click on the new layer button. Now you have a new layer and choose a brush. You can hit the keyboard shortcut B or you can go into the manual, look for window, look for the brush pallet, and look for the soft round brush and use that to basically add white or paint white over the paper texture. This is going to take some time, so I'm just going to erase all the texture here. Let me show you another way to remove the paper texture and bring back the details for the clouds. Go back to your levels, adjustment layer, just click on the levels adjustment layer. Click on the little circular icon there to co-op the graph and push your control point to the left side. Let me just zoom in closer for you to see. Push your control point all the way until you don't see the paper texture. This is certainly easier, but now the clouds are washed out. What you can do to bring back the clouds would be to click on the white icon of box there just beside the levels adjustment layer and use a brush again or you can choose a brush here and paint back the clouds. This is the original scan. You are painting back the original scan. Now if nothing is happening, make sure you choose the correct color, make sure you are painting with black. You have to do this for the clouds. If you cannot see the clouds properly, you may have to dial down the adjust curves so that you can see the clouds properly. Just choose whichever method is easier for you or you can just skip this whole step of erasing the paper texture because sometimes it can be quite tedious to bring back all these details. I'm just going to use a combination of the two methods to erase the paper texture. This is the left corner of the sketchbook. You can see the rounded corners of the sketchbook. Let's just paint white over the area and continue to work on your sketch. There may be some blemishes on your sketch. For example, this area here. You can choose to erase it or you can clone some other area and paste over the area. I'm just going to leave it as it is. Here you can see some issues as well. The scan here is blur because the paper is not in contact with the scanning surface. But I'm going to leave this as it is because when you zoom away to look at the scanner from a far, the blur is actually not that obvious. I think it's all right. This is a sketch book so you can see the binding here, which I will leave it there so that people can tell that this sketch was actually made on a sketchbook. I'm just going to erase the paper texture. Actually, I'm just painting white over the paper texture. I'm not erasing the paper texture because this was done on a separate layer. If I want to bring back the texture, I can just easily click on the layer on the right site to remove all the white paint that I have. 7. Enlarging the canvas: This scan looks tight. There's not a lot of whitespace around the sketch. Now I want to maybe add some whitespace on the foresights. Go into image, canvas size, and uncheck relative. This will call up the actual dimensions of the scan. We are looking at 7,475 pixels by 3,385 pixels. I want to add maybe more pixels, but I'm not exactly sure how much pixels I want to add. Maybe let's just add 1,000 pixels to the dimension. Instead of 7,475, we have 8,475. For the next one, we have 1,000 added to it as well. Make sure the anchor point is right in the center so that a space can be added on all the foresights, and click okay. Now you have a much larger image. Notice the background is checkered, this means the background is transparent. All you have to do is to create a new layer. Go to the layers palette, click on the new layer button. A new layer will appear. You may want to rename the layer, so let's call it white. Drag the white layer to the bottom and go to the menu, look for edit, fill. This dialog box will appear. It will ask you what color do you want to fill with. Just choose the foreground color, which you can see here it's white. Click okay, and now you have more whitespace. If it's too much space, just use the crop tool to resize the crop, to crop it again. Let's give this sketch a bit more whitespace, and press Enter, and save. 8. Save for web: Now that you have completed your edit, you may want to share your art online. To do that, you have to export your file, your scan into a web format. It can be JPEG or PNG. Let me show you how to do it. Go into your menu, File, look for Export. There are some shortcuts here, such as Quick Export as PNG but this will not give you the option to select the dimensions of the file, the image quality or compression. That's not what we want. What we want is to go into File, Export, choose either Export As or Save for Web. Now these two functions have similar settings that you can change. You can just choose either one that you would like. It's going to take a while to load up the file. This image that you are looking at is the actual file that is going to be saved. On the right side you can see the file format is PNG. There are three file formats. You can choose PNG, JPG and GIF. Each file format has its own pros and cons. For PNG, you get the best image quality. However, the file size is huge. For JPG, the image will be compressed so the file size is smaller, but the image quality will suffer slightly. Whether or not you can see the image degrade in quality will depend on how much compression you choose to apply. The last file format is GIF, which is good for saving artworks with flat colors. With watercolor art or with any artwork that has shades, that has a lot of colors, go with either PNG or JPG. Most of the time it's JPG because you want the file to be of a manageable size. Right under the file format on the top-right side, there is Quality. You can choose either Very Poor, all the way up to Great. I'm just going to choose Good. Pay attention to their file size on the left side here. Right now it says three megabytes. If you choose very poor image quality, you will see the file size update here to one megabyte, but the image quality will suffer. Now this is a zoomed out view so you can't really see the image quality suffer. Let me just go back to good. I'm going to change the image size to maybe 1,000 pixels and height will adjust accordingly. These preview that you are looking at right now at 100 percent is the actual size of the actual exported file. The file size is 104 kilobytes which is good. If you want to see whether or not you can see the JPG compression, you can zoom in all the way to see. You can choose between the different quality of JPG compression just to see the difference. Right now I have very poor quality. You can see the compression is very mushy. This is obviously what we do not want. Just go through the different image quality option and choose the one that looks best for you and also look at the file size, of course. Good is actually pretty good. I think that's pretty much it. For the color space, you'll probably want to click this checkbox, convert to sRGB because most of the monitors, they are out there are using the sRGB color space. Once you're done with all the settings, just click Export and save your file. 9. Common issues: Painting back the details: In this lesson, I want to show you how to solve some common issues that may arise due to scanning and edits. This is the image, the scan that we edited earlier. We tried to remove the paper texture and clouds, here you can see they don't look that great. If I remove the adjustments, the edits, you can see that each of the cloud is actually sharp. But after the adjustment is not that clear. Here I may want to use a hard brush instead of the soft brush to bring back the details of the clouds. You have to paint quite close to the edge there. Now you can create this sharper edge which looks more like your original art. Again, if you want to have to perfect edit it's going to take some time. For example, see here I did not erase that paper texture properly. When I zoom out, I won't be able to see that. But when I zoom in, I can see I did not do a good job. It really depends on how good a job you want to do. Maybe let me just erase this part because I just don't like how those blemishes look. If you're not that particular, then you don't have to do all this additional edits. Now the clouds, it looks better. Take a look at the edge at the top here versus the edge at the bottom here. 10. Common issues: Alignment: The next issue has got to do with stitching the images. More specifically, getting the images to align perfectly so that you can stitch them easily. These are the two scans that I showed you earlier. Let's rotate them again counterclockwise and this one as well, counterclockwise. Now for this particular scan there is an issue. If 111you look at the top of the page you can see that it's not perfectly horizontal whereas with this scan here, let's zoom in, if you look at the top of the page you can see that it's almost horizontal. But for this, the top of the page, there is an angle there. If we just copy this and stitch it here, the alignment is going to be off. To rotate this page or this scan, it's not difficult. Just use the ruler tool, which is hidden under the eyedropper tool here at the toolbar on the left. If you cannot see the ruler tool, you may have to press and hold the eyedropper to select a ruler tool. The shortcut to selecting that is to press "Shift I" to cycle through the different tools. Just pick the ruler. Zoom into your scan. Use the ruler to draw a line along the edge of the pitch. If you look at the top here it will actually show some angle. The number is actually too small for me to see, doesn't really matter. Next, go to image. Image rotation, choose arbitrary and this dialog box will appear and angle that you see here is the angle that the ruler has measured. I'm going to choose counterclockwise and press "Ok". Now it's going to rotate the image to make sure that the top of the page is perfectly horizontal. This is the corrected image. Let's just push this using the arrow key to the right side. Again, you can see there is misalignment issues. Yeah, misalignment issues again, so you will have to change the rotation again just so that this vertical alignment here is perfect. You can adjust the image rotation several times using the ruler. Rotate again measure, rotate again measure, rotate again. It's very tedious, which is why much earlier in the lesson, I told you to flush the sketchbook to the edge of the scanner. If you have done that properly, you don't have to rotate or do this correction to the rotation. It's going to save you a lot of time. In this case, if I have a scan that is obviously at the wrong angle I will redo my scan, I will scan again instead of adjusting the angle using the software because it's just much faster to re-scan again. 11. Adjustments with curves: Using levels to adjust your scan may not be the best tool in certain situations. Let me show you another tool. At the Layers palette on the right side, I'm going to turn off the levels adjustment. This is the original scan you are looking at right now. For this next adjustment, I want to use the curves. Let's go into the Menu, Layer, New Adjustment Layer Curves. Hit "Okay". You will see this graph which looks like it's similar in shape to the levels graph, it is the same graph except here it's presented with different tools. Same thing you have the slider, the black and white slider at the bottom, which you can use to push the highlights and the shadows. In addition to that, there is this curve where you can add control points to adjust the image. I want you to just experiment with pushing the curve around while adding additional control points to control what are the areas that you want it to be lighter and which are the areas you want to be darker because we have this curve, you can actually do some it really fine adjustments. Let's see if I can remove the paper texture while retaining the clouds. It looks like in this case, the adjustments is not very different from the levels adjustment. I may still have to go in to erase the paper texture manually or remove the paper texture completely and add the details back to the clouds. In some situations, depending on your scanned or levels will work better. In some situations, curves will work better. 12. Copyright: The last issue has got to do with copyright, so if you save your image for web, let me just save it for web again. This, by the way, is the save for web dialog box, which looks different compared to the Export As dialog box, but same thing here we can choose the dimensions, the file format, the compression level. Here, let's choose the dimension. If you export your file as a high-resolution file, people may actually download your file and reproduce it, they can print it and sell it to make money. This is piracy, obviously, copyright infringement. You may not want to save your file as a high-resolution file. Personally, for me I don't save my files beyond 1,000 pixels wide. To help me nail down those pirates, sometimes I would actually sign my name or hide my name in my sketch somewhere so that in the event that I do need to confront the pirate, I can tell them that this is my image because my signature is somewhere in the sketch, and that's the proof that I created this image. But there's really no way for you to prevent piracy other than to say if you fall below certain dimensions. 13. Bye: That's how I scan it and edit my art. Some artworks will require more time and effort to edit to make them look good. But that's the thing. If you want your art to look good, you have to spend the time and effort to make it look good. Sometimes I'm lazy. Sometimes I would just use a camera to take a photo of my art and share them online. But I find that scanning the art is more useful. For example, if I see some related topics or if I need to share the art that I have created, it would be easier for me to share the scan that I have created before rather than share a photo of my art with my hand in the photograph. It's just easier to share at a scan. That's how our scan can be useful. Also, if you need to print your work in the future, you don't have to re-scan again or scan it the first time, because you have done so at the point of time after you have finished or completed your art. That's it for this course. I hope it's helpful. Do check out my other courses on Skillshare. See you in the next course. Bye.