Transcripts
1. Introduction : Hello, my name is
Braden investor. I'm an artist, YouTuber, and I make content for
the Internet of Things. Welcome to this class. In this one, I'm going to
be teaching you how you can effectively draw a portrait
using the Loomis method. If you're worried about
drawing something from nothing and have no fear. The way I teach is I go off of reference
photos so you can get a true understanding from reference to actually
drawing something on paper. Now this is a number to a seven series set that I'm making on
the luminous method. But the whole point is for you to really come out of
this whole series with a thorough understanding of how you can approach any
reference that you want to draw. So what to expect? In this one? I'm going to be
taking you through the step-by-step process of
drawing your luminous head. So we start with
drawing our circle, followed then by the oval, which of course is
our side plane. We then identify our vertical
and horizontal axis. And then that allows us
to punch in our hairline, our brow line, the
bottom of our nose, and then the bottom shin. And then from there, once we have the
foundation established, we can then start to sketch in the features and all
these catching the futures. But it makes sure that they are proportionate to one another. And the hope is that you start
to see how the Loomis head plays into the actual
structure of basic human form. So that's the four one-on-one. If you enjoy it,
definitely leave a review. I always like to see
reviews that way. I know how I can do better
as an instructor for you. And I would love to
see your projects. That for me makes my class
has come full circle when I can actually see the value
that you guys are doing. That's what to expect. I don't see you in class.
2. Step (1) Drawing out your Loomis Head: Okay, so we have our
compass and we just have a blue sketch pencil here. We're going to
take our accompanies. We're going to set
it to about a two. I'm going to place it right smack dab in the middle
of the paper here. I'm just very lightly.
There's our circle. Now, this specific reference, the subject is looking almost directly at us
with a slight angle. So our oval in this case
is going to be skinny. It's going to be very skinny
oval. Just like that. Then of course on the other side there's
not gonna be an oval at all because of the nature of the angle of our subject here. So we're just gonna kinda slice off the side of
that circle there. And we've got our vertical axis. We have depending on
what the eyes are doing, kind of straight
across right here. There's our horizontal axis and then our temporal
plane that I like to put in my litmus head. So first-line right here
is our airline writer. Then our brow line right here. That's where the
top of the eyes go. There near the bottom of the
nose, somewhere right there. Now, once we have
these established, we're gonna go up, we're going to find that
center line of the face. And this effectively splits
the face into two sections. Okay? And it also helps us find
the bottom of the chin, which is the bottom of our
third section of the face, which is right about there. Why not? Okay. Now, once we have the bottom
of the chin identified, we pull up and
attached to the bottom of our vertical axes. Then we do the exact same
thing on the other side, albeit the angle is
slightly different. Now remember this is just
meant to be a guide, okay? And this is just
the limit set here. So once we have the main components of the
Loomis head, draw it out. Right here. We have the cheek plane, which extends from
the center of the oval down to the bottom of
the chin on both sides. Okay, cool. Now once we have that, we can look at the reference
photo and we can start to identify the
neck and the shoulders. Something like this here. And you can draw your luminous head literally
within two to three minutes, or at about 2.5 minutes
here with this. But it's not about speed. Okay? I don't want you
to focus on speed. I want you to just
focus on the technique. Speed will come. Now let's go to listen to.
3. Step (2) Drawing the Eyes & Nose: Okay, less than two. So now that we have our
alumnus head established, now comes the fun part. This is where we
are going to punch in features and
we're going to use these lines as a guide to
help us place our features. So with every eye, eyes sit in the eye
socket of the head. So naturally, the
eye will be further sunken into the face than
the brow and the nose will. What I like to do is I like to just draw out
pretty much the outline. In this case, it is very
much an oval shape, almost like an almond
shape for the eyes. And remember, with this
specific technique, we're just more or
less sketching. So you can go nice and light. You can use a nice
light pressure control. And then that will give
you a higher value. Then you can start to use a
heavier pressure control. And that will thicken up the value and it will
lower the value for you. Then for the nose, we start
to identify right here. It's nice and light. And notice how we use the bottom of
the nose line right here. Boom, there's the nostril and then the actual bottom
of the front of the nose. And notice also how that center line of
the face is going more or less down the
center of my nose. Right? This is one of the reasons
why the Loomis method itself is known
to be successful, especially for
younger artists that are just starting out
at drawing portraits. Because it allows you to
punch in your features. Much easier in greater
proportion than you would say if you were
just free handing exactly where those features wind or where you
thought they went. So here I've gone up from
the side of the subjects, left nostril, and
I've identified the corner of the
subjects left eye. Then same thing. I want
to establish the top of the eyelid and the
bottom of the eye, more or less an almond shape. And then once that is drawn out, I can start to draw out
the details of the eye. Now obviously when we
start to do this with charcoal in future classes, will be a lot more precise, but for now, I just
want you to have fun. I want you to sketch
it. Nice and light. I don't want you to worry
too much about the details. This is more about
just understanding how proportions work
with your features. When you use the
luminous head as a method for drawing out
your initial portrait. But then just noticed the
technique that I'm using here. I'm taking my pencil,
putting it on his side, and I can start to bring
out slightly lower values. Obviously, when you look
at the way the light is striking this subject, you don't have to worry too much about any areas
that have a high value because obviously higher
values tend to be white, low values tend to be
gray to darker shades. So if there's any
place like say, the top of the nose
or the Thompson, the cheeks that
have a high value. I don't even need to hit
it with my sketch pencil. But areas such as this or
I'm in the eye sockets, those obviously have a lower
value and because of that, that is where my pencil
work needs to be. So notice here how I
can lower this value. Then this is slightly tricky, but there is a drop shadow
from the brow over the eye. And this is kinda how
we can establish that. Just nice and light
over the top. Don't get hung up
on the details. But this is how you
do it. Alright? So let's move on
to lesson three.
4. Step (3) Drawing the Mouth, Jaw, & Hair: Alright, so less than three. Now what we're going to be
doing is we're going to be drawing out the
beginnings of the mouth. The beginnings of the mouth. And this is kinda how we start. We start with the drop shadow that is cast by the minerals. The reason why this shadow is in this specific place is because the light source
and this reference is directly above the subject. So when it comes to mounts,
that can be tricky. But do this, identify the
bottom of the upper lip. The bottom of the upper lip
sits on top of the lower lip. So as long as you can draw
that one with your line work, you can use shading techniques, hatching and crosshatching with your sketch pencil to bring
out the rest of the mouth. The lips as it were. This is one of the reasons
why I love to sketch, especially when it comes to sketching out rough portraits, is because you can move very quickly and they
tend to be fairly forgiving so long as your
proportions are close. So now here what I'm doing is I'm looking
at the reference photo and I'm bringing
out the definition, the actual form of
the subject's face. This is one of the reasons why I say that the luminous
head as far as the circle and the lines don't
get too caught up in that. Use them as a guide. And this is why,
because as you can see, the edge of the subjects
cheek and chin, It's not exactly like
the Loomis head, but the underlying them is hit allows us to identify exactly where the truth features
of our reference are? No. When it comes to
the hair, same type of deal. When you
look at the hair. And this is one of the
reasons why I have you guys doing this
entirely series drawing sculptures is because hair is a very deep subject. Especially when it
comes to portraits. You can spend entire classes
on just the hair alone. However, that's not what
this class is about. So when you're looking at
these reference photos, I want you to draw just the basic shape
of the hair, right? Statues are made this way. If you actually
look at the hair on this specific statue and there's not a lot
of detail in it. But the underlying form, that three-dimensional shape of the hair is very much there. So that's what I want you to
focus on with your drawing. Now, I've said this
in other classes. When it comes to your initial
sketch work on anything, whether you're doing
a charcoal piece, a painting, or a sketch, there was initial
bits of line work. Those are what they call
by definition, the shape. Shape is only ever a
two-dimensional, and in fact, a drawing is only ever two-dimensional even
when you add value, where people get confused, is that the value that
you bring in a sketch, like what we're doing, is an illusion of
that third dimension. It's not actually 3D, but you fool the viewer's eye
into thinking that it is. And of course, that is
one of the pillars of realistic drawing and
artwork in general, whether it's painting
or what have you. So just be aware of that. So just like I'm doing here, look at the reference
photo and just draw out the basic
shape of that hair, how that hair flows, right? And try to focus on proportion. We know we've plugged
in the features. And then of course, then over
the next couple of lessons will really bring out
some detail work.
5. Step (4) Linework & Underlying Form: Okay, So listen for now, this is where we really
start to get into some of the specifics and the fun bits of drawing as I like to put it. So what we're doing
here is we are building up our contour lines and we're starting to mess with
the quality of our line work, as well as the weight. And I'm going to show you
the difference between what an implied line is and
then what a fine line is. So real quickly, a line by its very
definition is a moving dots. So it's a dot that is created and then you pull or you
push it across the paper. That's the high level
of what a line is. However, there are
different types of lines. So now contour lines are lines that show you
where an object ends. So by themselves, they will only convey an object's basic
two-dimensional shapes. So that's what I was talking
about the previous lesson. That basic two-dimensional
shape, like with the hair. Those are contour lines. Now, the line quality is like
when I'm messing with here, It's the thickness or
thinness civil lines. So when you vary aligns quality, you can start to bring
out the illusion of form, the illusion of that
third dimension. So notice how here I have a drop shadow
and with the hair, I've started to put on
thicker quality of lines, but then leaving other lines in there implied
or contour state. So what that does is that helps to start to bring
out almost a heaviness, that illusion of
three-dimensional form. That's what, that is now. Line weight is the
strength of a line or how light or dark it
appears on paper now, typically aligns weight and its quality have a correlation. So typically, the
thicker equality, the stronger await is, or the darker it appears. And of course, the opposite, the thinner the quality that the lighter that line
weight tends to be. So from here, what
we can do as we can start to mess
with the form of the face where it's going
to pull up nice and light whenever it comes
to sketching out forms. So like how it looks, right? The underlying muscle structure. Just start off
nice and light and always pull your pencil in the direction that
that underlying form is in the reference. That'll save you a lot
of trouble, you'll end, it'll save you a lot of
erasing in the future. So now, implied lines are where you continue a line after a small break and then that loan proceeds in
the same direction. So a good way to put it
as like this right here. See what I'm doing
with this drop shadow off the chin on the throat. This is more or less an
implied line, right? I'm not defining it. I'm just using that, that layering of a
slightly lower value to bring out an implied line. Okay, So last lesson.
6. Step (5) Finishing Touches | Final Thoughts: Alright, listen, 5s
is the last one. So this one, we're just going to be going
over the detail work and I'm going to expand
a little bit more on what I was talking about
when it comes to line work. So now, as with implied lines as I was talking about
in the last lesson, the last type of line is what
they call it defined line. And define line is when you
continue a line without any break and typically they have a mid to heavy
line weights. So like say for example, some of these lines that I'm
putting in the hair here, these darker bits, this line
right here on the neck, these are defined lines. Now the cool thing with
hatching and crosshatching, especially when it
comes to sketching with colored pencil, like what we've been
doing in this class, is it gives you a lot of leeway, especially when it comes
to your line work. Because you, it really
makes the drawing pop. When you have a very thick
quality line that's defined, you can overdo it. That's why you only
want to do it in certain parts of the drawing. If you're unsure about where
to put a defined line, you can always go in with a nice light
pressure control and just Hatch hatching is where
you hatch one way, right? Crosshatching is
where you hatch on top and opposite of the
line that you just hatched. So there's hatching
and crosshatching. Those are the basic techniques for drawing and
sketching like this, this, yes, albeit it's drawing. But technically if you want
to be treated definition, this is actually sketching or more or less sketching
this portrait out. However, what I'm
teaching you or principal definitions of
what it is to actually draw something because these are the same principles that I follow when I teach the
three-layered method. Now, like I was saying in
the intro of this class, all seven of these classes, based off of the seven
individual references, they're basically three-part. In the first-class,
I teach Loomis heads only in these individuals
Southern classes, I'm teaching them as head
and then sketching them. And then of course, in
the final seven classes, I'm going to be drawing
each one of them out individually using the
three-layered methods. So those are gonna be longer. I'm going to be
going a lot slower, but I'm going to
be teaching you a lot more about how you can take these principle
approaches and definitions, especially when it
comes to linework into the three-layered method and into the charcoal
medium as a whole. So I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at
how much detail you're able to accomplish with the three-layered method
when that time comes. So this is pretty much it. I hope you enjoyed this one. Like I said, this is the
second of a seven series sets. So I hope to see you
in the other classes. Stay happy, stay healthy, and remember, ever stop trying.