How to Create Textured Drawings with Coloured Pencils: Drawing an Avocado | Gemma Chambers | Skillshare
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How to Create Textured Drawings with Coloured Pencils: Drawing an Avocado

teacher avatar Gemma Chambers, Pencil Artist

Watch this class and thousands more

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Introduction

      1:05

    • 2.

      Class Project - Drawing an Avocado

      0:55

    • 3.

      Materials You'll Need for Drawing with Coloured Pencils

      2:47

    • 4.

      Sketching the Outlines

      1:12

    • 5.

      Studying the Reference Photo

      3:09

    • 6.

      Building up the Lightest Layers

      17:01

    • 7.

      Adding in the Darkest Layers

      9:04

    • 8.

      Brighten up the Colours

      9:56

    • 9.

      Adding in the Final Details

      7:50

    • 10.

      Summary

      1:07

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About This Class

Coloured pencils can make some beautiful and complex drawings with a huge amount of detail, but it can sometimes feel overwhelming to create something so textured. I want to show you today that it's not as difficult as it may seem, particularly if you break it down into manageable sections.

By understanding the materials used and the basic techniques for color pencil art, I believe anyone can approach this exciting and flexible media and create amazing pieces they can be proud of.

In this class, I will show you:

  • The basic materials every colored pencil artist needs
  • An easy to follow process from beginning to end
  • How to create accurate sketches and transform them into finished drawings

This class has been specifically created with the beginner in mind. Once we've talked through the materials, we'll use them to draw an actual realistic drawing as the class project with an avocado. But remember: The skills learned in this class can be carried forward to just about any colored pencil drawing!

Meet Your Teacher

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Gemma Chambers

Pencil Artist

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Hello, I'm Gemma.

I'm a graphite and colour pencil artist living in South-East UK. I've always been passionate about art and teaching; I believe drawing is a skill that can be taught rather than a talent that some possess and some do not. My teaching style aims to give you everything you need to draw what you see and create realistic artwork.

My Classes | YouTube | Instagram | Facebook | Website

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Level: Beginner

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Transcripts

1. Introduction: Possible to make some absolutely, stunningly detailed drawings with colored pencils. But a lot of people aren't sure where to start. I want to show you today that if you break it down into sections and work one step at a time, it's actually reasonably simple to build up some really interesting texture. Name is Jemma Chambers, and I've been making online art tutorials since 2020. I've helped tens of thousands of people improve their art. And today, I want to focus on something really specific. Let's think about building up some texture with colored pencils. And I particularly want to focus on this avocado. Now, I've designed this course specifically with beginners in mind, so I will talk you through everything you need to know to create this drawing. We can start off by talking through the materials that you'll need. And then let's have a really good look at the reference photo, really see what that texture actually looks like. And then we can start working through the process one step at a time. So, let's get started. 2. Class Project - Drawing an Avocado: For the class projects, we will be drawing these two avocados. And I've picked this reference photo for a couple of reasons. First up, it has amazing contrast. We've got some really nice light areas and some really dark ducks. So it's already set to create a really nice finish drawing. It also has a really nice amount of particularly greens in the reference photo. We're going to need to work out how to build up and mix all of these different colors. Now, if you want to use exactly the same colors that I am, I have included a full list in the class resources, as well as covering all of the materials I'll be using. Now, as we work through the course here, I will show you how to create everything you'll need to know including the sketch. If you don't want to create your own sketch, I have included my sketch again in the class resources. When you finish your drawing, please do upload it to the class projects. I would love to see what you've done. So let's take a minute to talk about all of the materials that you'll need. 3. Materials You'll Need for Drawing with Coloured Pencils: Talk about all of the materials you will need to complete this course. And first up, the most obvious one is a set of colored pencils. Now, I am drawing this with polychroms colored pencils. I'm using this set of 60. These are a professional set of colored pencils, I find them very nice to work with. But you don't need to use these exact colored pencils. You could use a much cheaper set, for example, Crayola. Next up, you will need some paper. And in actuality, I think that the paper is more important than the pencils. I always like to draw on a smooth bristol board. Bristol board is a very thick paper, and it means that it's possible for me to build up a lot of layers of the pencil, and that is going to be absolutely key for building up this drawing. I'm using the Strathmore 400 series. It's a really nice, smooth bristol board. Su, you will need some way of sharpening your pencils. Now, I have a hand crank pencil sharpener. This I particularly like because I can change the blade. So I don't have to throw the whole thing away when the blade gets blunt. You don't need something as fancy as this, though, you can just use any basic pencil sharpener, as long as it creates a really nice sharp point on your pencils. If you do want to make your own sketch, you will need a graphite pencil ruler and an eraser, and we'll talk a little bit more about that later on. From here, the next material you'll need is actually something you're going to need to make. This is a set of color swatches. This is where you draw out every single color in your set, going from as light as you can go to as dark as you can go and then labeling it. And what that shows you is what the pencil actually looks like on the paper, rather than relying on the lead or the barrel of the pencil, which don't tend to be very accurate. Now, these are so important for every bit of drawing that I do. I really rely on them to compared to my reference photo, really see which color is the best match. Deep bear in mind, this isn't something that you will need to do multiple times. The set swatches that I've got are at least 5-years-old, so it's really not something that we'll need redoing frequently. Now, the final thing that you'll need is some way to look at the reference photo. Because I draw realistic items, I always work from a reference photo. I find that is the best way to make a drawing look as realistic as possible. So I need some way of looking at that reference photo. I do this on my iPad. I particularly like the Con zoom in to see all of the details. But you could print out the reference photo. For example, you just need some way of looking at the reference. So you will need a set of colored pencils, the right kind of paper, a pencil sharpener. If you're creating your own sketch, you'll need a pencil ruler and eraser. You'll need to make a set of swatches, and you'll need some way of looking at the reference photo. So next up, let's talk about creating the sketch outline. 4. Sketching the Outlines: Before we can think about putting some color down on the paper. What I first want to do is create some really nice and light sketch outlines. I want to give myself a little bit of a guide that I'm working to. So I like to do this with something called the grid method. This is where you draw a grid on your reference photo and a grid on your drawing paper, and then you just go through one square at a time drawing what you can see in each individual squares. This is so important so that you get your proportions right. And it really helps you to see what's actually there rather than what maybe you think is there. So you get a more accurate shape do go into this in a lot more detail in my colored pencil beginners guide, so I will link that in the class description. Once I've drawn everything in each individual square, I then use an eraser to remove that grid. Now, the absolute most important part of this is that you do want it to be as light as possible. We want to get a really accurate sketch, but I don't want to be able to see it too prominently at the end. In fact, you can see how faint this is. But don't forget if you don't want to draw your own sketch outlines, I have included my own in the class resources. Before we go any further, let's take a minute to look at the reference photo. 5. Studying the Reference Photo: I mentioned when we were looking at the materials. For every drawing I create, I'm always working from a reference photo. Now, what I like to do before actually starting the drawing, starting adding the color, is to take a minute to have a really good look at that reference photo. Really see the key elements that are here. So let's take a minute to do that now. So first off, let's look at the stone here. And this isn't as perfectly smooth as I would imagine it would be. First up, I'm noticing that it is much darker on the left hand side, lighter on the right. Clearly, the light is coming from this way. So in the lighter areas, it's a kind of light browny color. And then in the dark areas, it's really quite a deep brown. I'm also particularly noticing on the stone that it's got all of these lines. So it's not perfectly smooth. It's got these lighter lines running kind of randomly, I guess, through the stone. So I'm going to want to mark those in and then draw in the texture around They've got a little light patch at the bottom here and then a dark end to the stone. Those are the main details on the stone. Looking at the avocado itself. The innards of the avocado is a number of different colors, so it's generally reasonably, probably lightest around this kind of area. It's a little bit darker on this section, the more inside section. Then it gets to be a much darker or more vibrant green as it gets towards the skin of the avocado. I want to create quite a nice smooth gradient going from this color here to a little bit lighter and then much darker around the edge. Then probably the trickiest part of this drawing is going to be drawing in the skin. Now, the skin is very, very textured. It's a very bumpy skin, but there are more colors in here than you might expect. Looking at the lighter patches on the skin here, all of these really light areas, they look to me to be quite a light blue, particularly in this top area here and then it gets to be on the lighter areas quite a vibrant green, a pretty similar green here to the green around here. And then the darker areas are sorted into kind of patches. It's all very patchy to create that texture. So there's all these lumps on the skin. I'd say that the lumps are bigger, or they appear to be bigger around here, and they get smaller around the bottom and also around the skin on this avocado here. Other thing to bear in mind on this skin, particularly on this section of avocado is that around the edge, it's not green like on the flesh or a darker green, I guess this is here. This is much more of a brown. It's a very similar color to the underlying color on the stone, and there's brown all around the edge all around here. But there's also the odd patch along here and a little bit the same brown here. Those are the main things that I'm thinking to start with when drawing this avocado. Let's start adding in the lightest colors and building up marking in some of that texture. 6. Building up the Lightest Layers: I want to start here by filling in the absolute lightest color, and the absolute lightest color on one section may be different from the lightest section on another. I'm going to start off by looking for the lightest color on the stone. I would say the lightest color is in these lines on the stone, so around here, for example. This is a pretty light yellow, the same here. There's some other colors in here as well, but on the most part, I would say that this looks like a light yellow. What I want to do is take the lightest yellow from my set, so this is the cream pencil and lightly put it down over the whole of the stone. Now, as usual, there's a few things that I want to be doing here. First up, I want to be pressing really nice and lightly. I'm going to want to build a lot of layers up over this stone. So if I press nice and lightly, that will enable me to build up a lot more pencil. In order to help me doing this, notice that I'm holding the pencil further back than you might expect, I'm not holding it really close to the tip, and that stops me from being able to press too hard. Not only putting this yellow on the stone itself. But I'm also going to put it anywhere else where I can see some yellow son, particularly looking at this kind of triangle here and a little bit around here. So let's lightly build up some more of the yellow in these places and just kind of fade out towards the edge. Now, I'm also working here in circular motions rather than scribbling back and forth because I want to make this really nice and smooth. Generally speaking, the kind of flesh and the stone of the avocado is very smooth. So I want to try and build up pencil in that way. We're going to do is work from the lighter colors, and just focus on putting something down in each area. So I want to put something down on the bulk of the flesh here. Now, obviously, I can see quite a lot of yellow. We've built up some of the yellow here, but all around the edge, this is made up of a lot more green. As I mentioned when we were looking at the reference pot, the green is kind of fading from a very light green here to a much brighter and more vibrant green towards the edge I want to be looking at my color swatches and looking for the closest green to the color I can see on the avocado. I would say that the closest green is this earth green yellowish. This is quite a earthy green, I think, quite a natural looking green. I would say that it looks closer to a lighter color. I want to be same as before, but pressing really lightly, I don't want to build up a huge amount of this pencil because I don't think that that will be an accurate match to the reference photo. And what I want to do is very similar to with the yellow. I want to work my way around the stone. I don't see any of the green on the stone, work around the edge here, and just build up some of the green fading it into that yellow section. I say, I don't want to press hard here, I want to be pressing really nice and lightly. And this is really nicely demonstrating how I am holding the pencil further back. So this particular pencil is quite short pencil. So I'm using a pencil extender here to help me hold it further back. And then I can just work my way along here really nicely fading that green into the yellow so that we've got a nice gradient. All I'm trying to do is put something down that we can then start building off of. And that's pretty much what I'm doing for the whole of this first chapter. I want to be building up some pencil, and then we can everything after it. Remember that by the end of this first chapter, you want to have something down on the paper everywhere, but you don't expect it to look good necessarily. So you can see me working around the edge where the avocado is meeting the skin, and then just lightly fading this into the sort of middle of the avocado. I'm going around the stone here so that I'm not risking going over that stone. I don't want to put green on the stone. And as before, I'm once again working in secular motions to try and make this as smooth as possible. As I say, we will be building up a lot more pencil on here, but the smoother I can get it to start with the easier that that's going to be. But you don't expect to get it absolutely perfectly smooth at this time. So you can see that it is slightly resembling the middle of an avocado. L et's look for the lightest color on the skin here. And again, as I mentioned when we were looking at the reference photo a second ago, the lightest color I can see in this section is this kind of color here and here, it looks to me like a very light blue. So I'm going to take the light ultramarine pencil and once again, put down a very nice and light layer anywhere where I can see a hint of this blue. So, there's really just a patch on the skin that is more blue, and then it turns to green a little bit lower down. So let's build up the blue. And although may look a little bit peculiar at the moment, you may not feel like you should be able to see blue in the skin. If we can see it, we will draw it. Let's once again, build up a nice and smooth layer, nice, light, smooth layer by holding the pencil quite far back and working in those circular motion. Now, something else that's going to make this go down in a much smoother and more consistent way is having a nice and sharp pencil here. It makes a massive difference. So make sure you're frequently sharpening your pencil so that you're always working with a nice and sharp point. Just put the blue anywhere else where I can see a little hint of blue, a little bit just around here. It's still on the skin of the avocado, the other piece of avocado, and it's roughly at the same height. So the light is obviously reflecting in a similar way. I I'm happy that I've built up all of the areas where I can see some of the blue. I want to be looking at the lighter areas towards the bottom of the skin. Again, as I mentioned when we were looking at the reference photo, if you look at the light patches down here, this is a much lighter green, a very similar green, I would say to the general green on here. You can see some of that green around here as well, kind of bluey green here. Go back to that same earthy green that we were using a second ago and just lightly build up some of this on the skin itself. Again, we just want to be working with something here. We want to be putting down something that we can then build upon, and I'm really focusing on those lightest colors right now. So I can focus on the lighter areas of the skin on the avocado on the left. I pretty much want to go over the whole of the remaining skin on the right hand side. I do want to go around that. I mentioned that there's this more brownish patch. On the avocado. I want to work around that. But beyond that, I just want to block in this whole section. So now, I'm generally happy that I've put this green anywhere where the lighter color is poking through. Let's think about the next color that I want to be adding in. And I want to be particularly focusing on the color around the edge of the avocado. So, again, as I've said before, we can see this light brown color all around the edge. So let's use the raw umber pencil to fill that in. Still, I'm working nice and lightly here. I don't want to be pressing hard. This isn't the time to be building up all of the darkest values. We're just trying to get our bearings right now and kind of map everything in. And so I'm working the whole way around the edge of the avocado. I think it looks a little bit odd at this point, but once we start building in all of the texture, it will start fitting in and looking kind of a bit less obvious. So I'm really looking at the reference photo, looking at each section here. I want to be working out how wide. The brown needs to be if I need to make a really thin strip of it or if it needs to blend a bit better into where I will build up the texture with the darker green. And really looking at the shapes here, so it's not perfectly smooth around the edge. There's various lumps and bumps and I want to try and get them mapped in. Now, I do think that this is made a lot easier because I had already marked in a lot of these kind of wiggly outside lines from the sketch. So I got that as a little bit of a template. Also fill in the same color onto the stone. On the most part, I want to just block in the stone. But as I mentioned, there's all of these lighter lines on the stone. I do want to mark those in. I haven't marked these in on my sketch, but that's okay. I don't think that they need to be absolutely in the perfect place. As long as I get the general shape right, I think that will be fine. Once again, what I can do is mark in where the line on the stone is going to go. Mark in that I've got a line that I think is going up here. Then I can shade from that point. So shade up to the line on the left. Then I can start thinking about marking in the next line, the next section, just really looking at the shapes that I can see on the reference photo, I'm trying to get it as accurate as possible. I want to go around both lines, both edges of the line so that I can keep that middle bit nice and light. And then I can shade in with circular motions to block in this area. Obviously, a lot of detail on the stone that I'm not worrying about right now. I just want to get this lightest color marked in. I'm not worrying that some parts of this line look a little bit. It doesn't look very realistic, for the most part, because it's not very consistent in its thickness. But we can tweak that all a little bit later. As I say, I just want to get something down on the paper. And then we can start tweaking this and really improving it from here. So once I'm happy that I've marked in all those sections, I can use circular motions to mark in these inner areas. Absolutely cannot stress enough that beyond trying to get this down as smooth as possible. That's all I really need to do. I don't need to worry about any of the detail and I don't expect it to look amazingly like a stone. The thing that's going to bring this together is as we work towards the darker colors adding in all of those higher levels of contrast. Let's look for any other areas that have a little bit of this brown, particularly looking at these brown little flex along here. So we can just lightly map in where they need to go. Then I can move on to the darkest color I'm going to use in this chapter. Let's not forget this little area here, which is this area. And then I can move on to a green that I intend to use with that earth green yellowish. This is I kind of think of it as a darker version of that same green. And I'm going to use this to mark in any areas that are dark green. So all around the outside of the skin of the avocado. In some areas, it is much darker than this color, but for now, I just want to get the shapes mapped in with this color. So let's start off by going around the edge here. You can see that there is a thin dark line all along the edge. But it's not all the same consistent thickness of line, and it's not a nice and smooth line. It's very, very bumpy. It's generally got some larger bumps around here, for example, there's a lot more of the dark green in this section where there's a little line coming down. And it's generally quite nice and a little bit blurry. It's slightly fading in, so I don't need to make a really sharp crisp line, but I do, on the most part, want to mark in this kind of wobbliness. I'm going to call it Once again, this is made a lot easier because I have mapped in on the most part this wobbly line very clearly from my sketch. On the most part, I'm really just following that sketch. Now what I want to do is start thinking about marking in all of the details on the skin of the Avocado. Let's start off by focusing on the avocado on the left. I think that's a little bit easier just because there's less skin. And then we can focus on the one on the right. Let's have a look at what's actually here. As I say, this is kind of a bubbly apache skin. There's quite a firm line that's as wobbly, I would say, is this side, going all down here, and it's generally darker on this piece of fruit, is it fruit? Than on this piece. And where I'm looking at the skin a little bit closer up, what I want to be doing is looking at the darker areas. So there's the odd light patch. I want to be working around those light patches, so shading around them. You can see that it's a bit darker going up here, a bit darker going up here along here, around here. Basically need to work my way down trying to fill in that patchiness. So I'm working around where I think there's a light spot and basically shading from that point. Now, a few things to bear in mind here. First off, I'm not trying to get it absolutely perfectly the same as the reference photo. I don't know that that would be possible. It would take a very long time. Do want to do is look at the general shapes on the reference photo and try and follow that same kind of series of shapes. So this is very patchy, and all of those patches are pretty close together, so I want to be trying to create that. And I would say that all of the patches start getting smaller as we work our way down. They're generally a little bit bigger towards the top, and that's even more obvious on the other avocado. So we want to be really focusing on getting the edge of the avocado here as accurate as possible in that is not a really smooth edge, and it does kind of go into that brown section a little bit. Now, in terms of how I'm putting the pencil down on the paper, even though I'm filling in a small patchy section, I am still working in circular motions. So you can see that I am going over these areas little bit by little bit in these tiny circles. To try and make at least the darker areas quite smooth. Now, I do think that this looks very peculiar. It looks very patchy and not necessarily in a good way. But Once we've put something down on the texture, we can tweak it, maybe with some darker colors as we go and build up some of the lighter colors, so the contrast isn't quite as prominent, and I think it will all come together. Now, as we go down to the bottom, the skin at the bottom here, it's in a bit more shadow, so it starts getting much, much darker. In fact, down the bottom here, I want to focus less on building up all of that patchiness and more on getting the edge of the fruit, looking a bit more correct. It's very wobbly, as I say. Building it up in such a way that when we move onto the darker colors, we can really feel a bit more confident that it's mapped out accurately. Let's now do exactly the same for the avocado on the right hand side, and this is very, very similar. There, if anything, are some easier patches because they tend to be a bit bigger. Let's go through this a little bit faster. Am looking at all of the shapes that are made up in here. So, for example, there's this kind of swirl here. I want to be adding that in adding in this kind of shape here, this shape. I don't need to get all of these shapes in exactly the perfect place. But because I want the texture on the avocado to look kind of so naturally random. I always think it's hard to be that random. So I can follow the shapes that I can see within the avocado, and that will hopefully make this look more realistic, even if, as I say, I'm not getting it perfect. As I work down, I do find because we're getting two slightly darker areas of skin, it's very light at the top. The dark green patches need to be reasonably small at the top. As we work down here, the darker areas do get a little bit larger. So you can see that this dark patch here, for example, is thicker than this dark patch here. So I just need to be building up more of the green as I work my way down. As I get to the bottom, particularly in this bottom left hand corner, it's a really, really deep shadow like on the bottom of the avocado on the left. Pretty much getting the outside edge of the avocado right here and then just shading in this whole area. Now, the number one thing that I want to stress to you about this is to take your time, build up the texture as best you can, but don't worry about it looking weird and patchy. Don't worry about getting it perfect. So much of this is going to be built up upon. We're going to build up some more darker areas, as I mentioned, really get those darker values to pop, and we'll also be building up some of the lighter areas, making it look a little bit more natural. It doesn't look very natural with how patchy it is at the moment. But this is always where we need to start. This is how we need to start building up that texture. So by the end of this first chapter, what you should have is two avocados drawn out, but they're not looking very realistic. They look a little bit odd. There's no contrast really to them at all. But we do have a really good solid template that we can start thinking about building on in the next section. But it for this first chapter. 7. Adding in the Darkest Layers: This chapter, let's focus on getting those darkest values, right? So I want to carry on working from these lightest colors, and I'm going to focus to begin with on the stone here. So, let's start off by going back to the color that I was using before on the stone. This is the raw umber. I just want to be building up a little bit more of the shading. Let's take a minute to have a look at the stone a bit better. Right now we just have a very rough template drawn out. But I want to look at this with a little bit more detail. You can see that although there's all of these light lines in here, they're not all the same color throughout. In fact, the lines that I've got are way too light at the moment. I'm also noticing that there is a kind of light circle here, and then it's darker all around this circle. There are some areas that are really very dark like around the edge here and along here, as well as this line along here. But to start with, I want to begin kind of refining around this lighter patch in the middle. Let's use the same color as before. I'm not pressing firmly. I'm just going over these same areas. But just wanting to build up a little bit more color in any area that will be much darker. As I always say, this is part of me getting my bearings, I can start tidying up around the edges of those very light lines, and generally mark in where I think these darker areas are going to go. You can see that I'm just going over the areas a number of times and that's gradually building up a slightly deeper color. You can start to see the general lighter shape in the middle starting to build up. In actuality, I don't think it will be until the next chapter that this really gets a lot clearer. I'm happy that I built up a lot more of this color, a lot more of the shading on most places of the stone, so avoiding that lighter circle towards the top, but also tidying up around some of the lines here, those lighter lines. I'm going to move on to a slightly darker brown. This is the burnt sienna. I want to be putting this anywhere that has a slightly reddish brown tone. You can see that reddish brown particularly around here, but you can see it prominently in this section here as well. In a around the bottom, in a lot of the darker areas, they have this reddish brown tone to them. Let's build up this color, and this is made so much easier because I can use the light lines as a bit of a kind of guide. It's helping me get my bearings on the stone here. But you'll notice that I'm still not pressing hard. I just want to build up more of the color nice and lightly so that I can carry on building through to the darker colors. Let's go all along the bottom here as well. Filling in there's some shapes that I don't currently have marked in some sort of tear drop shapes, I guess. I do think it's looking a little bit peculiar, but that's okay. I think the whole thing will pretty much end up looking a little bit peculiar until we get to the end. Once I'm happy that I built up some of this reddish brown, I can move on to yet another darker color. It's just add a little bit around the top. You'll see that I'm not putting any of this color on where that lighter patches. Before we move on, let's just add there's a few spots on the stone. You can see all of these quite subtle spots along here. Really think it will show if we don't add those in. So let's just mark in trying to get them in roughly the right place. And then I'm moving on to the walnut brown. This is the darkest brown I have in my set, and I only want to put this on those darkest areas. So again, that's particularly generally around the edge of the stone and also close to the light lines, as well as this very dark line all along here. I really want to be building this up. Now I've built up all of these darker colors, I think it's really making the light lines look too light. As I pointed out, in reality, I don't think that they are all the same color throughout. So let's go back to the raw umber and maybe tidy up some of the lines in some areas if they need to be a little bit kind of skinnier, but also go over them. So you can see that I can still see these lines, but they're just a lot more toned down. And I pretty much want to do this on all of the lines, except for maybe the odd area, particularly again around that lighter patch, where I do want them to generally be quite a bit lighter. I think that there's still more that I will need to add to the stone, but we can come back to that in the next chapter. For now I'm happy that I've got these darkest values nice and clearly marked in. Let's go back to the walnut brown, and what I want to do is really focus on adding this in to all of the darker areas. Just like before, I'm going to work through this in quite a systematic way. Let's start off by going around the edge, and I pretty much want to put this everywhere where I put that darker green. Generally around the edge, it is all very dark. There is the odd patch that's much lighter. But on the most part, I need to build up quite a lot of this brown all around the edge. I then want to start working my way over the darker patches on all of the spotty skin. Now this is very, very similar to what we were doing a second ago with the dark green. Maybe I'm being a little bit less thorough, and I'm only putting it on the darkest areas. That said, I would say that it is going in most places still. So you can see I am literally going over the top of where I added that green. The green has been really good for mapping out what needs to go where. And now I can see that a bit clearer. It's a bit easier for me to fill in the rest of the brown. It is worth having a good look at the skin. You'll see that, as I say, some areas are darker than others. So for example, you can see a really clear line around the edge between the two avocados. And it's really very dark here and all along here, as well as all along here. So I really want to be building up a lot of the darker brown in these areas. I do want to build up this dark brown in other areas, as well, but maybe not to the same extent. You can see that it's really building up that texture, making it look a lot richer. It will mean that we can really go over this area and add a lot more color in the next section, make it look a lot more vibrant. I want to really be going over this area down the bottom in quite a detailed manner. As I said down the bottom, it has got quite a prominent shadow, and it's also got quite a prominent shadow generally where the two avocados are next to each other. Focus on this avocado on the right hand side, and I don't need to go over all of these areas at the top. Here, particularly, because this area is so light, you'll see that a lot of these darker areas are, I would say, a darker color. You can see the green, particularly around here. It doesn't so much to look like a darker brown, but this area does look like a darker brown. I want to go over here, go over here, and there's a lot that I need to be adding down here, but I don't need to necessarily fill in a huge amount at the top. So I really want to be filling up this area down the bottom using those circular motions to make that shadow stand out. You see I've added a little bit of the texture added in a little bit of this brown towards the top, but not as much as I say, of that green. So I add a little bit into this area here, but I don't, again think it needs a huge amount in this area. It looks more green to me. That said, once we've built up a lot more of the color, it might be that we need to add more in a bit later. Whilst I've got this brown, I'm just going to fill in there some little subtle shadows just underneath. I have marked them in on my sketch, but I haven't currently actually filled in these shadows. So let's map these in. I once again want to go over the absolute darkest areas with the black pencil. There's really not too much that needs doing here. Generally speaking is once again towards the bottom of each of the avocados and generally speaking where those two avocados are sitting next to each other. All along this line here. Although this looks quite harsh, I would say, for now, it will look much much better. Once it's got all of the other colors built up on top of it, it will really help to tone it down. So it's build up along the bottom here, and I'm also going to go over this shadow just nice and lightly. Also going to go over some of the darkest areas on the stone like around this edge here and a little bit towards the top. Then there's just the odd area on this avocado on the left hand side, on the right hand side, once again, really focusing on filling in the bottom. So essentially, what we have at the end of this chapter is, I would say, a set of avocados that do look pretty good on the contrast, and the proportions are about right, but it's looking nowhere near vibrant enough, and it's not looking right because it's not vibrant enough. In the next section, we can use this really thorough template now that we've got to build up all of that vibrancy and really brighten everything up. But by the end of this chapter, it should look something like this. 8. Brighten up the Colours: Now that we've got all of the lights and darks marked in, let's think about brightening this up. I want to start off by brightening up the fleshy section of the avocado. I want to add in this green section around the edge, this green rim. Now, you can see that we did add this in really lightly before. What I want to do is make it a lot brighter, much more refined. Although we've got all of these basic shapes marked in really lightly, we now want to be really adding in the vibrancy and tweaking the colors. I'm using the same color that I used before. This is that earth green yellowish, and I want to be working around the outside really looking at all of the shapes that are here. So you'll see that it's not all one very smooth color. There are some much darker patches like here. There's a few darker patches along here. This line here is pretty dark. It's got some dark green around it. It's much lighter around here, so I don't need to build up as much around this section and then gets darker again around here, and there's all of these lines along this area at the bottom. There's a line here as well, a darker patch here. I want to do is work around the edge, building up this green and marking in those patches. Now, my goal here is to go for the green that is the closest match in my set. Although I think that this green is the closest match to the green around the edge. I do think that in the reference photo is a little bit brighter, which is fine we can adjust that in a little while. But this is the closest green, I think, so I can start off by building this up. Once I'm happy that I've put some sort of green around the edge, let's look for any other main colors that are missing on this section on the flesh of the Barricado. Looking at the color under here. There is a shadow under the stone. What this really is is quite a cold gray. It's not necessarily a color that you would think is in the avocado. But all along here is cold gray all around here. So I've got two cold grays in my set. I'm going to use the slightly darker one. I just want to fill in this section. This is going to help make the stone look like it's in a hole in the avocado. It's also going to give it a little bit of shadow, which is going to help it look a bit more realistic. Have added a small amount of this gray shadow. I once again want to be looking at any other main colors that are in this section of the avocado. So I'm very much working around this one section at a time. I find that is the easiest way to work kind of work quite methodical. So starting off with the flesh of the avocado, we can think about the skin separately and the stone separately. So I'm particularly looking at this triangle here, this color here. This has a kind of orange brown tone to it? Not dissimilar to the orange brown tone that I think is in the stone. So let's just very lightly take the raw umber pencil. That is the main underlying color in the stone and just lightly mark in that triangle. Now, I don't want to add a huge amount of this color, as I say, it is just a hint of this. So I can help myself with this in the same way that we have done up until now by working nice and lightly, holding the pencil a little bit further back. I do you want to be quite accurate with where it's going, though. So I do you have to hold it closer to the tip than I would otherwise, just because I really want to control where it's going. Also want to be working in circular motions. Now, there's a few lines around the edge as well that are a similar color, so let's add those in. Then I'm going to use a pretty bright green to try and brighten up around the edge. As I said, I don't think that the earth green yellowish is a hugely perfect match for the reference photo, I think it is a little bit brighter. I'm looking at my color swatches, the color that I think is the closest to the color that I'm missing. It just needs a little bit of this much brighter green added. So I can lightly go over the top of what we've already got. And it is just making the whole thing look nice and bright. Once again, let's have another look at this green section, see what else I think is missing. I'm particularly looking at this section here, for example. This is really quite a dark green, as I've already mentioned a second ago, and there are a few areas of very dark green. And what we've got at the moment, I don't think is dark enough. So I'm going to use this darker green. As I said earlier, we have used it before. I used it on the skin. I tend to match this green up quite frequently with the earth green yellowish. I find that they are similar, but this is kind of the darker version. Can work around the edge adding in this extra dark color. I'm also whilst I've got this color out, going to use it to really make the skin much darker. The skin has a lot of detail marked in on it. We've got all of that texture marked in, but it's just looking way too light and way too patchy. So I'm going to lightly go over this whole skin section. Avoiding anywhere that has that light blue tone. There's some areas with the light blue patches. I want to avoid that. Just as I say, whilst I've got this pencil, go over the skin on both areas. No pressing family here and working nice and lightly working in those circular motions and just building this up a little bit more, going over a lot of the squiggly marks that I marked in here before, particularly if it's an area that will need to be a little bit lighter because it's got either blue or there was some area on the skin that had a light green. I don't really want to add too much higher up, as I say, there is all of this blue up here. I said, I think that this area to the top with the light blue patches of light is looking too light at the moment. So we will in a second add in some more light blue. Let's just carry on around the edge of the avocado here. Fill in all of these darker areas that I mentioned. And then I can switch to that light blue and just make this area a little bit more vibrant. I am going about this in the same way that I did before. Nice and lightly working in circular motion so I don't want a really heavy blue color. Take a minute now to focus on the stone. I think the stone is looking way too light. Let's go back to that walnut brown. I'm not going to use any colors beyond what I've already used, I don't think on the stone. I think it just needs more. This is very similar to what I was doing before filling in all of those shadowed areas, avoiding that patch of light in the center towards the top can also slightly refine some of those light vein lines running through here. Just making them look a little bit tidier, maybe making them a bit darker in some areas like around here, for example. On the most part, I'm very much doing what I've already done. As I say, just making it a little bit more. So let's think about any other areas where I need to add in some of this worn up brown. So let's go over a few of those darker patches around the edge. And let's also add some light shading over some of the darker areas of the skin of the avocado. So right now on the most part, the dark patches of the avocado are that dark green. Actually don't think that the dark green is dark enough, so I can add some brown over the top. I can always add some more green over the top of that if I want it to look a little bit more green. But what I'm really going for is a darker version of what I already have. Let's go over the bottom of this avocado on this side as well. Really going back over all of those patches that I've already marked in, I think that they have got a little bit lost where I put that darker green over. Actually, I want to build up some more dark colors down the bottom down here, so I do need them to look a little bit more prominent. But this is a lot simpler than before because I am literally just going over all of those shapes that I've already marked in. So I'm working reasonably quickly. It looks a little bit kind of scribbly at the moment. I can tidy that up by going back over it, adding an extra layer of shading. As they say, really want the skins of the avocados to look nice and deep. Take my time going over some of the darker patches towards the top as well. Just tidying this up, really looking at the shapes in the reference photo and trying to make these look a reasonably close match. Then I can go back to that darker green. Actually start applying a little bit more pressure at this point because I do want to make the skin a little bit smoother. Maybe go over some of the darker patches towards the top up here to blend it a bit better into the blue section. And I can add some extra shading down the bottom down here. Again, I want to make this bottom section look like a very dark green. I don't want it to look quite as patchy as it's looking at the moment. So now I'm happy with the darker values. Let's use that lighter green the earth green yellowish to just smooth out a lot of this bottom section. As I said, I don't want it to look patchy, and I think it is at the moment. But as we particularly towards the middle of the skin of this avocado here. It does get quite a lot lighter before it gradually blends into the lighter section. So let's just try and make a nice, smooth transition between the darker bottom section and the much lighter blue top section here. So I can just go over particularly going over some of those dark patches, and let's do the same on the other side. And then I think this is looking much, much, much more vibrant. I'm generally happy with how it's looking at this point. I think that's a good point to stop this chapter, and in the next chapter, we can add in those absolutely final details and really tweak anything that's left. And let's just add in a tiny bit of blue up here to brighten this up one more time, as well as along here. Just the same area that we've added in blue in the past, all of these spots along here. And then that is it for this chapter. 9. Adding in the Final Details: Finish off this drawing by tweaking the final colors and adding in the final details. And I'm going to keep working through this one section at a time like we did in the last chapter to work out what the most obvious color is that's missing. And right now, the most obvious thing that I think is missing is that the flesh of the avocado is not looking yellow enough, I guess. When I compare my drawing to the reference photo, particularly, haven't really got any yellow, except for the underlying cream on this section, and look how yellow in some areas it really looks. It's kind of a yellowy green, but more on the yellow side. So the closest color that I have to this is quite a bright yellow. I'm just going to go over particularly around the edges, but I will also add some towards the middle. I'm focusing around the edges to begin with. Working in circular motions and building up some of this color. Can see that that's not really making it look yellow, but it is making it look more vibrant. It's just tweaking it so it's a little bit more accurate to that reference photo. So I want to be working in circular motions here as usual pressing reasonably lightly. I'm not pressing firmly. It doesn't take a lot to get some of this color built up, I just want to make it look as smooth as possible. Let's just add a little bit more particularly around the edge where I think that it just needs more of the brightness building up and really comparing my drawing to the reference photo to work out where I need to be adding in more of this yellow. L et's focus on the brownish color around the outside of the skin. So this brown line that's going around here. Right now, I think it's looking way too pale, so I want to build up a couple of colors along here. So I'm starting off with the burnt sienna. I don't need to put this everywhere, anywhere where I can see a slight hint of this reddish brown, which actually generally speaking is in the darker patches. It's a lot of areas where it actually already built up a reasonable amount of color, but I just want it to be a little bit brighter. So you can see I'm working my way around here, just nice and lightly, and it's already looking much richer. Et's add a little bit around the edge around here. There's just a subtly darker section here. It kind of fades into that green a little bit more than what I've got at the moment. And then let's tidy this up add a little bit more color by using that raw umber to just blend in some of the lighter areas. I think it's helping blend this darker brown area a little bit better into the green. So I think that's looking much much better. Before I move on from this area around the outside, I am going to go back to that cream. This is that very light yellow, and just use this to smooth out the lightest areas on this brown section again. Basically anywhere where I haven't put that burnt sienna. I want to use the cream. You can see it's quite subtle, but it is smoothing out what's here, but also lightening it up a little bit. So now, I'm happy with this line around the edge. Let's think about the next section that I think needs some tweaking. And let's just take a minute to brighten up this area here. I'm using the same colors that I used before starting off with the burn sienna. Just mostly around the edge. Then using that raw umber to just brighten this area in the middle. And then I can smooth that out with that cream. I'm going to focus on the stone. So I'm very much doing the same again as we've done before. I still just think that the dark areas aren't looking quite dark or smooth enough. And the light areas, I want to work around that so that it stands out a bit better. I also think that those lines are looking still a bit too prominent. So let's go back to that B Ciena. And I'm going over all of these darker areas in exactly the same way that I have done before, but avoiding that circular patch towards the top, that needs to be much lighter. Can be going around here, building up some of the color, but also tweaking maybe slightly the shape of the stone or in some areas tweaking the lines, making them maybe a bit thinner. Once I'm happy that I've got all of these darkest parts in. Let's build up some of the raw umber to even further tweak these lighter lines and just generally build up that underlying color a bit better. I think that this is looking much closer to the reference photo. It's probably one of the trickiest areas in the drawing. Particularly because of these veins, they're just very hard to get looking realistic, and the key is to be building up actually probably more of the raw umber on them than you might expect. Then let's build up some of the worn up brown on the darkest areas and really just tweaking things the same as I've been doing up until now. Build up a little bit more of this triangle here. It's again, not looking dark enough. We already had some of the raw umber in this area, but I want to build up a bit more. Then I'm also going to go back to the cool gray that I used in the last chapter. I can see some of it up here. I want to build up that a little bit further. Just anywhere where I can see a little hint of this gray, which is generally towards the top of that raw umber triangle. In quite a few areas around the edge actually. I'm also going to build up more of the gray on this darker patch down here. Add a little bit more of the raw umber. Again, I can see a little hint here. And I find that as I add in maybe some of the gray like I did just now, it makes areas like this a little bit more obvious. And I start to notice some of the extra colors, and I do think it's things like this that really make this look much more realistic. So I once again, work around the edge brighten up around here one more time. And I'm going back to that earth green yellowish. As I've said a few times, I think it is the color that is closest to what we have around the edge here. It's the same as I was doing before. We're just doing more of it. I just want to be building up more of this color. Add a little bit of a dark green around here. This patch. There is a blue patch here, but it's too light what we've got at the moment. And then I can use this darker green to once again go over these darker sections that I've talked about a lot. So you can see how we're going over the same areas multiple times with the same colors actually. But we want to keep going, keep building up the color until it does match the reference photo. It doesn't need to be a perfect match as I've said a number of times, but we do want the colors to be as vibrant as in the reference photo. Gating into the final tweaks. Now, I just want to add a little bit more of the worn up brown down here. The shadows not looking prominent enough. Then I'm mostly happy with the avocados themselves. I'm just going to take a minute to focus on the shadow. So using that warn brown to just add a bit more onto the shadow here. It looks a little bit too kind of patchy. I'm not changing the shape or anything in this area. I'm literally going over it and building up more of that color. Whilst I'm tweaking the shadows, I am also going to use that same cold gray that I used before on the Avocado itself to just add more shadow. Looking at the shadow, there's the very dark shadow down the bottom that I've already marked in on both of these. It actually extends down further with a cool gray, I would say, and there's also a cool gray shadow here, here, here. Here. So let's use the darker cool gray to add that in, so I'm just going to extend the shadow that we've already added in down a bit more. And I think that that looks like a much more realistic kind of gradient here. It smooths it out much, much better. And then I'm also going to add in just very lightly the shadow that I mentioned the other shadow. So I'm not going to build up a huge amount of the color here. I want it to be reasonably subtle. The main bit that I want people to be looking at is obviously the avocado. But I don't want to put nothing here. I think adding a little shadow does make a big difference. You use circular motions to lightly build this up again, just going over the area multiple times to build up the colors until it's at the point that I want. Then that is it. 10. Summary: That is the end of the course. So the first thing I always do when starting any drawing is to put down some really nice and light sketch lines. Once I've got my sketch all marked out, I can then take a minute to really have a good look at the reference photo, looking at all of the most obvious elements that I want to be bearing in mind as I work my way through the drawing. Here, I want to start building up some really nice and light base layers really smoothly. I'm not worrying about the texture to begin with. Once I've got those initial lightest colors in each area marked out, I can then start mapping in the key shapes. I don't need to get this perfectly matching the reference photo, but I do want to very much use the reference photo as inspiration. Once I'm happy, I've mapped out all the shapes, I can then start working my way up towards the darker colors, really marking those shapes in a bit more prominently. I can go back over the whole drawing adjust the colors and brighten everything up. Now, I hope that you've enjoyed this course. If you do, please do review it, and don't forget to upload your finished drawings into the class projects. Happy drawing guys, and I'll see you in the next course.