Transcripts
1. Introduction: Hey skillshare members, my name is Josh and I'm here today to teach you how to build and paint your first war hammer 40 K miniature. In this guide, I will talk you through all of the supplies you will need, as well as walking you through step-by-step on how to build and paint your miniature. I will be specifically focusing on the wall hammer 40 K side of miniatures. However, my other videos will cover the different genres of games. Miniature painting can be quite overwhelming to start with, which is precisely why I'm putting together this guy. And now when I first started, I felt this way overwhelmed and I could do with a guide like this. So without further ado, let's get stuck in.
2. Assembling supplies: The first thing you'll need when building a wall, human nature, it's a flat workstation, preferably with a cutting mat or a piece of newspaper to protect the work surface. Next up, you'll want some light in order to clearly see your miniature. Now, you can use an artificial light for this, or if you're just starting out, natural light works great too. As for tools, you want a pair of clippers. Now these are the ones from games workshop, but you can probably pick up a cheap pair for a couple of pounds. Now, if it's your first minute, sure, you can actually use scissors, but I don't recommend this in the long run. You'll also want a sharp knife to build your miniature. Now any craft or hobby knife will do. Now you'll also need some glue to assemble your miniature. So because my model was plastic, I'll be using plastic cement. But if your mother was raising or metal, you'll want to use superglue. Finally, you will of course need your miniature. So in this case, I pop to my local Games Workshop and picked up the introduction intercessor model from them. And now this model is completely free. And so it's a great way to get started with those supplies on hand. Ready to build your first 440 K miniature. One font or supplier you may wish to pick up at this stage is sprite pike. And why I chose to use a half foot's brand for matte black spray. Now I'll be covering the technique to spray a minute show in a later step.
3. Assembling your miniature: Now is the time to begin building your miniature with your clips in hand. Choose a part of your model that you wish to cut out. Place the clipper blades either side of the plastic, Holden it to the sprue and firmly clip. Be careful not to go too close to the miniature as this could damage it. We can always clear up the loose plastic later on. Next ninth and begin to clean up the parts of plastic still attached to the miniature. Now be careful when doing this as your knife will be sharp and wouldn't want to snip. Once you've cuts the loose bits of plastic off the miniature, you can use a scraping technique in order to clean the remaining model. Once you've completed this for the entire miniature, it's time to begin assembling it and plastic cement to glue the parts of dementia that you wish to assemble, push them together, and then ensure there are no gaps. Now you may wish to leave certain parts separate when it comes to painting. The most important being the gun of dementia. However, in this guide, I didn't bother. And this will be a completed miniature that's fully Bill. Now you're ready to pick your color scheme and progressing to the next stage.
4. Picking a colour scheme for your miniature: Now it's time to pick a color scheme for your miniature. Now for this guide, I'll be painting the model I picked as an ultramarine. It's a couple of reasons for this main being there, the kind of poster boy for Games Workshop. And so they're perfect for new players. Here's an example of one on the Games Workshop website, which you can use for inspiration. That's handy about this website is you can rotate the miniatures and hope to see every part of them. Another great example to pick a color scheme is Instagram. As large HMO following on Instagram. And there's plenty of different painting techniques on there as well. Finally, you may wish to consult, will have a full tiki artwork. Just by scrolling through artwork can oftentimes gaining inspiration for color schemes. Now if you're ever unsure of what colors should need in order to Scots pine to scheme, you can download an app called Cisco color, which is games bookshops app. It'll just help you pick your colors VM in inches. Now if you happen to see a color scheme E, like on the Games Workshop website, oftentimes scroll to the bottom of the page with a list all of the colors you'd need to faintness minute chunk.
5. Priming your miniature: Now you've picked your color scheme. It's time to undercoat them miniature. Now I picked how foot's matte black. And the technique for this is just to dust the miniature rotates net as you go in order to lay down a smooth base coat. Now, the reason you undercoat your minute church is to protect it and to allow the paint that you put on top of this layer to settle further fifth, now you can pick up spray that is the same color as the armor. Few minutes. And we're in this guide. I wanted to show the full process. Hey, we're a miniature looks like once it's fully primed, this provides a great starting point to paint your armor.
6. Painting Supplies and Thinning your paints: Now it's time to gather everything that you will need to paint your miniature. Again, remember to get a lot of light into your room. This could be natural or artificial. Now it's time to pick yourself up some brushes. I got this set of Amazon around about a year ago. And I must say that served me really well. This brushes have about 12 thousand and five-star reviews on Amazon. They come in all different sizes as well, which is really handy. If you'd like to pick up urine set of these brushes. I'll leave a link in the resources tab. Next up, I highly recommend picking up a painting handle. Now it doesn't have to be the since day one, but it just helps you control your model while painting it. Next, we've got a old mug. Now this is just primarily used to wash out paint brushes. You'll then need a palette. Now this is kind of a fancy a pallet of two different sections, one for washes and one for controlling pain. But to be honest, I don't really need a palette like this. You could just use an old dinner plate. Here is the paint list required to paint an ultramarine insert. So now I've decided to split these paints into three different categories. The first one being basic paints. Paints, you'd need to paint your miniature to a tabletop standard. Then I've listed the cows and varnish pints. Now these will be needed in a lightest stage by four, address them now. And finally, the additional highlighting paints will be if you wish to take your miniature to the next stage. Now, with these paints, I've tried to select ones that you'll use over and over again if you did decide to get into miniature painting, I've also tried to limit the amount of different paints you need in order to complete the tabletop stand of the miniature. If you decided to just buy a couple of the highlighting points, I was just Teslas blue, hashing gray, and ruined fangs stale. The others are minor. You can also save a bit of money by just buying a pot of odd coat and a pot of maps varnish and not blindly setting varnish. On final product, I highly recommend is a bottle of airbrushed thinner. Now, even though we don't plan on using an air brush, this will work perfectly if we just add it to each box of paints. And this way we don't have to worry about trying to thin our paints as we paint the miniature. Now finding your paints is super essential when it comes to painting miniatures. As otherwise, you can lose detail. When applying paint. Thin paint should almost flow like water. It should have a very slight bit more resilience to it. But you shouldn't be rough to try and drag it along your palette.
7. Base painting - Blue and gold: Now it's time to start painting our miniature. So we're going to tackle the AMA first. I'm going to take a little bit of a crack blue and put it into our palette. Now this pint wasn't pre-filled in my case, so I'm just going to use a little bit of water. I would recommend fitting your paints prior to put them on your palette via airbrushed going up. And then we're just can take this blue and paint it on all of the armoured parts of our intercessor. So that's the arms, shoulder. And you really don't have to be too neat to start this, because this is our primary color. Doesn't really matter if we hit anything chaos, because we're going to paint everything else anyway. Here you see me painting the legs. After the first coat has dried fully, gets a little bit more McCracken blue on your palette and begin painting another coat on top of this. And the reason he paints to coats rather than one big one is so the paint goes on nice and smoothly. And so we don't obscure any detail. If it was to paint one thick coat, it would obscure detail. And the paint that could end up drawing now very smoothly to thin coats of blue onto our model. We're going to go ahead and start tackling the gold on this intercessor. So I'm just taking rich Futurama here. And again a little bit on my palette. Now sometimes I'll use my thumb as a bit of a control palette just before painting the miniature, sometimes handy. So I'll hit that. And yet we're just going to paint this on to the trim of this intercessors shoulder. God. Now be nice and neat with this and you may wish to go down to a smaller brush. So we've your first minute. Sure. You're probably going to make a few mistakes. If you do, don't worry about it, we'll we'll come back and fix that later. But just take your time with a smaller brush, working around the trim of the shoulder pad. Using that same goal, make sure to paint the chest crest of the intercessor. Being careful not to hit the blue armor, but if you do, no problem. The last stage Code is to paint the symbol on the rifle. Repeat this step. For toughing coats, much lightly blade.
8. Base painting - Silver and black: Next up, it's time to start painting the silver details and your miniature. Take the lead Belcher paint and begin painting the metallic areas on the gun. So these are any bits of the gun that look metal to you? And it's generally most of the gun, but the casing on the main body of the gun. I also decided to leave the gun scope black. Next up is two pence, the belt buckle, but the incessant. And to paint these two tubes each side of the helmet. It's probably easier to use a smaller brush for this. Next up is to paint the four exhaust ports at the back of the miniature, as well as the top two on the upper backpack. You may also wish to paint the canister of the back of the miniature, as well as the two ports at the legs or the matcher. And be sure to repeat these stages with another fin code. Next up we're moving on to the black details we've added on black. Given it a good shake. And coming into paints the edge of the intercessor just next to the canister them. And with the black, we're just painting in-between the AMA panels here on the kind of ribbing. And this will separate the AMA nicely. Just in-between the groin there, as well as the belt itself, which is next to the hand, whether it be a slight bit of rubbing and on the level of the gun case in, there'll be flipped onto. Now I have all these paints. You'll wanna go ahead and give them to thin coats, much like the blue and gold. And they go, that's the black details down.
9. Base painting - Cloth and Eyes: Now working on some of the other minor colors, you'll want to take wrecker flesh. And for this, we'll be painting the top part of the purity cell. Next, take my piston read and using your smallest brush, you want to paint a little bit into each ion recess on the miniature. Now as concentrated at the time of doing this. So I unfortunately didn't get entirely in sharp. Just take your time. And if it's too complicated or you make mistakes, don't worry, we'll fix that later. You'll also want to go ahead and paint the top of the purity sale, as in the wax part of the period T cell with this color.
10. Painting the base of your miniature: Next up we'll be using mechanical standard gray to paint the base of the miniature. So just Farley apply this throughout the entire base of the miniature. Being careful not to go on the legs and in later steps or be enhancing the detail of this base as an overall for this miniature, I didn't put too much detail into the base as I just wanted to give people a rough idea on how to paint their first miniature. There are plenty of more complicated cases in we'll have 40 thousand. But for this guide, That's a pappas. Two more steps for this base include taking the original Rackoff flesh color and painting the cough on the floor of the base. Careful to pick out the one in-between the interstices legs. The final step to this base is to take the lead paints. And this is entirely optional. But I decided to pick out the smooth sort on the base of the miniature. There's also these two lead pipes. I figured they've been picked out. Repeat this for TIF in coats.
11. Fixing mistakes: Before we can progress on to the next stage of miniature painting called washing is essential. We fix our mistakes. As you can see here, I've made a small slip with silver paint onto the blue Armor. I've also slipped a little bit with the gold onto the color of the blue armor there. And so both of these will need fixing. To fix these mistakes, simply take the color that is intended to be on the area and paint it over. Any mistake. In my case, I'll be using a crack blue, and touch up those two mistakes.
12. Washing armour: Now that we've finished fixing all of our mistakes on the miniature, it's time to add some shadow to it. Now this is done via a special kind of paint range called washes. And the two that we've got today are none. Oil and accurate. Shade will be using the first to create shadow on the blue armor of a miniature. Say your non-oil, and get a smaller brush for this. And all you're looking to do here is to paint it into the recesses of the miniature. So as you can see from the guide on screen, I'm following the shoulder trim very closely, just looking to add a bit of shadow into the trim there. So here you see me adding a bit of shadow to the leg. I'm just following that panel around anywhere where the kind of light wouldn't hit or a panel would be kind of split fruit. Shadow, such as there is wet at this wash. So I'm just following that leg around. Same here. Sometimes it helps to tilt your miniature upside down to see where shadow wouldn't. Sorry, to see where the shadow would be. Just adding a little bit to the face plate there. Now you can fill this down with a little bit of water. Just don't go too heavy. Heavy. Adding a little bit to the hand just to create a slight difference between each finger. And just put a little bit in the metro areas, the back of the legs in between each little groove here on the backpack. So now I'm happy with that. I'm going to use that same none oil paint to go ahead and add shadow to the metallic areas and the miniature. So for this some pertinent on all the silver bits that we painted previously. And I'm pretty much put in that all over the the silver bits. Mainly kind of aiming to hit the reassesses. So for the events I just put it inside the vent. For example. I put for things like this tube here, I would just go ahead and trace the whole tube. Now it's important to remember to shade the gum with the miniature as well. Next we're moving on to the next shade wash. And for this, we're just looking to very lightly. And I do mean lightly, go over the goal of a miniature. And we'll just use that for the chest plate as well. Just just into the recesses and this tap out here as well for the purity sale. So continuing to use aggregate serve shade, we can go and just paint the entire base with this. Now, in this guide, we're not going to be doing much more to the base. So this is just a quick, easy way to kind of make the base look a bit dark. So you can see here I've watered down that that was slightly and I'm just painting it straight onto the base here. Okay. So there the main kind of washes that you need to do. The most important thing here we have your washes is just to stick to the recess is only if you do find that you've gone onto the armor, you can go ahead and use the original color to touch up any mistakes you've made. And I would recommend doing that before progressing on to the next stage. So this is a perfectly fine stage to leave your miniature to a tabletop standard. However, in the next couple of tips, I'm going to be showing you how to bring up another level.
13. Highlighting blue and black: So if you've decided you wish to in a minute just to that next stage, the next process will be doing is a process called highlighting. Highlighting is kind of the opposite process to washing. And instead of adding shadow, we aim to highlight the bits that would be hit by light. So we do this by taking a slightly brighter color than the original color used and just hitting the corners and parts of the miniature that would get hit by light if it was real. So as you can see here, you kinda looking to highlights the bits that would be naturally hit by the sun. And also the bits you wish to draw a viewer's eyes to. So if Teslas blue on our paintbrush, we probably want to be using a slightly smaller one. And we want to just aim to basically catch all of the edges of the armor of the miniature. So a slightly fin down paint is not too hard. The kind of drag the side of the brush along each edge of the armor we wish to highlight. So as you can see here, I'm just dragging the side of the brush along the AMA panels there of the miniature. In order just to pick out the raised areas that would be hit by the sunlight. You can see me repeat that process for the AMA fingers the front of the helmet, just by cautiously. They're just being very gentle. Some of the color of the miniature, just to make sure that stands out nicely. This is where the painting handle comes in. Really helpful. So you can go back over areas if you want to stamp for them. This is looking close here, just a little bit more in the helmet. Little bit more than the backpack. It more on the legs here. If you make any mistakes quite easy just to get rid of it by dragging slowly on the Shingo. Okay, so what you can do is go ahead and try and trace the outline of the shoulder pad here. Now, I wouldn't actually recommend this for first miniature. But once you kinda get comfortable with highlighting, you can kind of have a bit more control. And here I'm just kind of adding a little bit of a highlight to the shoulder pad for a bit of brush control just to make that shoulder pop. But again, I wouldn't recommend this. If this was your first miniature. It's probably going to cause you more hassle than it's worth. The next Parliament it show will be highlighting is the black. And for this we'll be using ashen gray. And again, much like the blue armor, we're just going to trace along each edge of the pouch here. Just to make that pop. We're going over gun casing here as well. Just dragging that along, much like the blue armor and back over the pouch here just to make it stand out. Just tracing the gun case and along following that scope count as well. And again, you can strengthen it just by going back out of there. And if you make any mistakes like I did here, you can just take that original black color and fill that in.
14. Highlighting Silver and gold: Next highlight we're gonna do is again, refresh our flesh. And we're just going to be painting this onto the res, detail of the Tabard, leaving some of the wash behind. And this will create nice contrast. Next we're moving on to liberate a goal. And we're going to be just dragging this along the sides of the armature him here in order just to kinda make that gold pop a little bit more. Much like the blue armor. We just wanna use the side of the brush to pick out any data. Here, we're just doing it very, very lightly. And some of the greatest bits of the chest. And on a tiny bit of the gun. Again, you can strengthen that gold highlight by just Free going over the details. As I have done here. That's it for the goal. Then we'll be moving on to the silver. And for this we'll be using ruined fangs still. An OH, we're aiming to do here is to pick out the raised areas of the gun, just much like the armor, once again, dragging it along the sides of the metal parts. The width weapon here, just making sure to get both sides. And for the backpack care just dragging it along the top raised fins of that backpack. And the engines at the rear of the backpack as well. Again, you probably want to be using a smaller brush. This, as I've shown, making sure to hit the tough part, the gunner. And these two events here, either so that the helmet as well as I think a tiny little bit onto that canister there, you know, sad little bit to the belt buckle. They probably won't see that too much. Now you can use the same silver to go ahead and make the goal to stand out even more. But really less is more for this part of gold. Okay? So that's it for this stage of the highlighting.
15. Highlighting Eyes and finished highlights: And the final highlight or be doing to this miniature, is just to take a little bit of white scar. Again, a tiny little bit of her off and painting it just into the eyes, the miniature. Now you really kinda wanna hold your breath here and take your time. But all you're looking to do is to touch a single dab of whites and it's the eyes of dementia. And what I'm for the front portion of the miniatures, I'll show you here. And that just picks that up. And here we have it. This is the minute shot with the finished highlights added to it. Now I left the base blank care of doing the wash just for simplicity, the app delay, if this is a great point to add some decals on human nature.
16. Applying decals: So one of the final stages on your miniature is to add some details to it. Now this is optional, but I think it always really emphasizes the model. And so for this one, we'll be using the intercessor altering transfers here. Now I've got this set because I bought a larger box of miniatures. So you may not have some for your first ever miniature. However, if you enjoyed painting your first one and do by Sir, I'm sure a set of all-terrain transfers will come in that box. So here we're just using our sharp knife again. So you go ahead and remove the transfer. We wish to use simple as kind of tracing the shape of the transfer and cutting out. So once cutting out the transfers you wish to use, you should find yourself a shallow tub of water to just go ahead and place those transfers into it. Next up, we'll be ensuring the transfer sticks down to the miniature. Before this, we'll be using art CFO. And we'll just be applying this all over the part of the miniature we wish to apply the transfer to. So for this ultramarine here, I'll be using both of the shoulder pads here. And so I'll just be painting these hard code straight onto the shoulder paths. And that's important to do this just before the transfers are ready to come off. And that normally takes about a minute or so of being in the water. So once they've been in the water for a while, you should find that separate from the card backing. And once they done so, brush to pick them out of the water and place them on to the miniature with the article on their prior. So here you can see me using my fingers. I wouldn't recommend doing that, but I've done anyway. And just placing it onto the miniature here. Now you can use water to go ahead and push round that transfer once it's on the miniature. So if you find you don't like it where it is, just use a little bit of water to push air out. So if symbols like this, where they're kind of one sticker that meant to go round age shoulder pad. You may wish to cut in-between half of the sticker to allow lay on that curve shoulder pad easier. So once you're happy with the fitting of your transfer, you want to go ahead and add another layer of art coats on top of that transfer. And that's intended just to seal that chance for in to stop it from moving. You may wish to be quite generous when doing this though, as I've whereas you might move to transfer. Finally, it's a case of adding a little bit of matte varnish back on to the art code to remove the glossy appearance. And here we have a completed miniature that has transfers on top of it.
17. Varnishing your miniature: So the last stage for our miniature painting is to go ahead and varnish the miniature. And there's a couple of reasons why you may wish to do this. The first being they all protect your miniature while playing on the table top. The second being that it can apply some different kind of affects your miniature as you see fit. For example, for my miniature, I'm choosing to use a satin varnish. And this will be because the law of cosines is kind of a little bit more pristine than other chapters. And so I'm aiming to kind of show a bit of shine on his armor that you can get from a satin varnish. So whoever varnish you choose to use, go ahead and take a very clean brush, a little bit of water and combine those two. And then you just want to go ahead and tightness pool of human nature in order to apply that varnish. This is important, you don't use too much here as otherwise, you can kind of ghost your miniature and you're kind of get a white effect to it. If this does happen, you can just reapply the varnish and it will fix that mistake. Okay, and that's that Well done.
18. Finished model: And then we have a completed Ultron antecessor. So if you enjoyed this tutorial, please leave a review in the review section of Skillshare. Share it to any of your friends that are thinking about style and war hammer. And perhaps check out my other tutorials for age of sigma. And then day. Thanks guys.
Schwills
