Folk Sewing : Hand Sew and Embroider a Toy Orange | Laura Lamn | Skillshare
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Folk Sewing : Hand Sew and Embroider a Toy Orange

teacher avatar Laura Lamn, Singer / Seamstress / Sound Engineer

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Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Watch this class and thousands more

Get unlimited access to every class
Taught by industry leaders & working professionals
Topics include illustration, design, photography, and more

Lessons in This Class

    • 1.

      Intro

      1:32

    • 2.

      Getting Prepared

      3:34

    • 3.

      Measuring and Cutting

      3:59

    • 4.

      Constructing, Stuffing and Closing

      7:21

    • 5.

      Stalk and Leaves

      10:33

    • 6.

      Appliqué eyes

      12:28

    • 7.

      Add the Eyelashes

      6:17

    • 8.

      Mouth and Final Touches

      3:51

    • 9.

      Well done

      0:31

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About This Class

Welcome! In this class you will learn how to make your very own Pet OrangeĀ :-) Join folk singer and seamstress Laura Lamn in slow stitching this cute toy.

You will be walked through step-by-step andĀ learn all the hand sewing stitches and embroidery techniques.Ā 

This class is suitable for total beginners or those with some sewing experience whoĀ are looking for a fun project.

We will use these stitches; running stitch, back stitch, chain stitch, raw appliqué, turned appliqué and french knot.

What will you need?
Scrap fabric - Orange, green (or another colour for pupils), black and white
Thread - Matching colours to fabric looks great, but not essential. Just regular thread you'd use for the sewing machine.
Stuffing - You can use fabric scraps, wool, or beans
Needle - A small needle for hand sewing, the kind that come in a sewing kit, nothing fancy!
Thimble - Metal or leather to protect fingers
Sharp ScissorsĀ 
Fabric Marker - Tailor's chalk or fabric pen. I love the ones you can iron off.Ā 
Printer - To print out the pattern, but you can also draw it out
Beeswax block - This can be useful, but not essential, to run over your thread to stop it snagging on your fabric.

Have fun!Ā See you in Class Laura XOXOX

Meet Your Teacher

Teacher Profile Image

Laura Lamn

Singer / Seamstress / Sound Engineer

Teacher

Singer / Songwriter / Seamstress / Recording Studio Owner / Sound Engineer / Skillshare Teacher

Hi! I'm Laura Lamn

I'm a folk artist living and working in Kent, the Garden of England. I sing and write songs inspired by the Kentish landscape around me, and my inner landscape. I am a sound engineer and have recorded music for myself and others using my portable music studio, Possibility Studio. I sew historical folk inspired clothing for myself, and toys and clothes for my son. I am a Rising Teacher on Skillshare and have a growing collection of online classes in my Skillshare library. I love drawing and painting, and love to express myself through ink doodles. I have created Zines and Prints of my art.

I have recorded an... See full profile

Level: All Levels

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Transcripts

1. Intro: [MUSIC] Hello and welcome to this class where we are going to hand sew and embroider a pet orange. Why do I need a pet orange, I hear you ask? This pet orange serves many purposes. First of all, as a stress ball for when you've had a difficult day. Number 2, for staring at you lovingly on your desk when you are working on a boring spreadsheet. Number 3, for practicing perfect posture like you're a Victorian finishing school and number 4, to practice your one handed one ball juggling. Jokes aside, this is a really fun project to make. It uses up old scraps of fabric. I've made this orange out of an old sweater and old shirt. Hand sewing is a lovely, relaxing, and meditative hobby to take up to keep you calm and creative. This project will take a few hours to complete and at the end of it you will have a lovely gift to give to yourself or to one of your friends or family. This class is suitable for total beginners because we're going to break it right down to basics. If you've already got a bit of experience with sewing, you will definitely learn something new. There will also be a pattern that you can download and print in the resources section. If you prefer not to do it like that, I'm also going to show you how to draw it out and design it yourself. I've absolutely loved learning to sew. I find it a very nourishing and restorative creative practice. May this course inspire your love of sewing. I'll see you in class. [MUSIC] 2. Getting Prepared: Before we get stuck right into class, let's go through everything we need to complete this project. We will need scraps of fabric. I have used an orange sweater for the main body of the orange, an old linen shirt for the center of the eyes, and a little bit of black fabric, an old top, and the white is an old bed sheet. You need to dig up some colors like this of scraps of fabric. Next, we'll need some thread, need a selection of threads. It's nice if you have threads that match your fabrics, but also it doesn't really matter. You need thin thread, a bit like the thread you would use for a sewing machine, something like this. Then we need something to stuff our orange, I like using scraps of fabric so you get a lovely heavy toy at the end. But you also might like to use a polyester stuffing or wool stuffing, or you could even pop some beans in there if you want it to be like a bean bag. You will need a needle for hand sewing. You can get sets like these which have a selection of needles. This is the size of needle that I normally use. Not completely necessary, but you might like to have a thimble as well to protect your fingers if you do a lot of hand sewing, this thimble is a finger saver for me, I definitely love using this thimble and use it every time I hand sew. Then we need some scissors. Scissors is one thing that you can't really scrimp on. You need good fabric scissors. These tiny scissors that you see me using in the video, they are actually nail scissors that I don't use and they work pretty good. They're pretty sharp. But the bigger scissors, these ones, these are fabric scissors. If you plan on getting into sewing, I recommend getting some nice sharp scissors. We need something to mark our fabric where there could be some tailor's chalk which you can rub off, or I like these pens that iron off with heat. They're really quick and easy to remove the pen. If you are going to use the pattern that's provided, you will need a printer and some paper to print that out, but you also don't need that. I am going to show you how to work out yourself. If you're going to work it out yourself, it'd be nice to have some stiff card and a pen to draw your design out on the paper. Last but not least, you'll need some bees wax. It's not essential, but it's quite nice to run over the thread to make sure it doesn't get caught in your fabric. Those are all the practical things we need, but there's a few extra things. We need time. We need to set aside some time to do our sewing, you might like to do it in the evening. I personally find it a nice relaxing activity, rather than going on an endless stream of Netflix or YouTube, getting lost in a YouTube vortex is quite nice to spend some time in the evening sewing. You'll also need some space. You don't need a big, glamorous sewing studio, you just need a little cozy corner where you can sit comfortably to sew. Thirdly, you need a good attitude. Sewing if you're new to it can be a little bit frustrating and fiddly when you first get started, but that is so rewarding and so worth giving it a try. Be kind to yourself and be patient in the process. Now we know everything that we need to get into this project, let's head to the next lesson where we are going to learn the stitches. 3. Measuring and Cutting: Welcome back. In this measuring and cutting lesson, we are going to measure and cut our orange fabric. Just a little note that it's good to draw out the designs on the wrong side of the fabric. I want you to draw your sewing line and you're cutting line on the wrong side of the fabric. This is the time now to print out your pattern. If you don't want to use the pattern and work it out for yourself, this lesson will show you step-by-step how to measure and cut the orange. Let's get started. I've got my tape measure here and I'm just showing you how you can get a feel of what size your orange or your ball is going to be. You can just curve the tape like this and it'll show you for you to imagine how big your orange will be. If you want to do it really small like a satsuma, or if you want to do a really big like a melon. This size I'm doing is quite a large orange or maybe nearly a grapefruit and it's 14 centimeters long. We draw a line on our ruler, 14 centimeters long, and then we find the halfway point at seven centimeters and draw a dot there. Then we need to do the sideline and we want that to be half the length, so seven centimeters in this case. We did 14 centimeters long, seven centimeters wide. I want to draw a line, and I want to make sure that it's exactly in the center so that dot is matching up with 3.5 on the tape so that it's exactly symmetrical. Then drawing the shape, it looks a bit like an eye, so curving around like this. Draw a nice curve shape to match up our 14-centimeter length and our seven-centimeter width to create a round ball shape. Once we're happy with our curved line, we want to cut that out with scissors. This is going to be our piece of pattern paper that we're going to use to draw on for the stitching line. Note this is not the cutting line where we're going to cut the fabric, this is the line that we are going to stitch on. It becomes a guideline for us to sew running stitch along. I've also drawn here that we want the grain to go this way. Looking at the grain of your fabric so that the toy sits nicely. I'm working on a very thick jersey, and it's hard to see the grain in this video, but I've lined it up with my shape. I'm drawing a nice bold line around the pattern piece making sure I don't miss any spots. Take it away, check. I missed a little bit at the bottom there. Let's just be careful and add that bit in. That is going to be our sewing line. Now we want to make three more of these so in the end we have four of these lovely eye-shaped pieces. You see now I'm drawing a dashed line around it and this is going to be our cutting line. I recommend about one centimeter away from the sewing line. We're going to do that for each one and then we're going to cut them out. There we go. We have now four pieces all with our sewing line marked on and all cut out with a centimeter around the edge of each. Now we've got all the pieces ready to go and it's time to construct stuff and close our orange. 4. Constructing, Stuffing and Closing: Welcome back. In this lesson, we are going to put those four pieces together to make our orange. Then we will go on to stuff it and close it all up, ready to get embroidered on. Let's go. Starting by getting two of our eye shapes and placing them right side together. Ready to start constructing this ball. We want to work along one side of the eye, measuring some thread of the same color. The length of the line we're going to sew with a bit extra threading our needle and getting started. We want to start right at that tip point of where the two sides of the eye join. We're going to do fastenings stitch. One of the stitches I showed you in the introductory stitch video. We pull through, we make that loop knot and then tie it off. Because this fabric is quite thick and I want to be secure, I'm going to do two of them. It's also good to show you. Looping through again, making that little loop, threading through. Now we're nice and securely attached. Now we're going to work the running stitch along. Because this fabric is thick, I'm going to have to come out the back thread through and come back to the front. If your fabric is thinner, you might be able to weave it through, like in the introductory stitch video. But for me, this is too thick. I need to work like this. This running stitch. We want to work all the way along this side in this fashion. Making sure our stitches are nice and small. You'll see mine are about a millimeter or two millimeters long, so we get a nice tight finish. There we go. I've stitched all the way along one and then I'm going to finish it off with a fastening stitch to finish that line. There we go. That one is done. You'll see now I've done the same on the other pair of eyes, both stitch down the side. Now they look like this. We have two of the halves of the orange. Now we just join them together. We want to place these right-side together and join up the third line. We're now going to do this one and join these two together. Finding again that nice point right at the tip of the orange and making our fastenings stitch. There, ready to do running stitch along this length. Making a nice loop to start off that lovely knot to hold it secure. Then working our running stitch down that length all the way to the bottom, to the other point where we will fasten it off just the same as we did with the other two. Now we have three sides all joined together. You're starting to see the shape. Thick shape. Now we want for the last one to join together. We're only going to go halfway. We've got space to turn it inside out. Like this. I've just left a little gap here. When I said the running stitch enough to turn it inside out. Look. Starting to look good. Looks a bit like a basketball through the color. Now we're going to start stuffing it. I like using scraps because it's a good way to use waste fabric and I like that heavy look and the way it's a bit lumpy as well adds a bit of character. You might like to use wool stuffing or whatever else you prefer to stuff with. Here I go just slow and steady. Stuffing in strips of fabric and squishing it around to make a nice shape. This quite an enjoyable therapeutic process. If you want to add an extra special touch, you can write something down on a piece of fabric and put it in there as a reminder. Something I'm thinking about the moment is remaining content while being passionate about my creative projects. Because sometimes I get all span out with my passion enthusiasm. I want to find a still center. Contentment and passion is my motto at the moment. I'm popping that inside the orange, to remind me of that. Then once we've filled it nicely have a nice shape, we want to do all fell stitch to fasten the outside of these two pieces of fabric together. Holding that up there. That is where we need to stitch along. Joining in, you'll see here that I've worked back a few stitches from where the running stitch ended because it got a little bit loose. The running stitches is a little loose there. I'm doing a knot about three stitches back from where the line of running stitch ended just so that it's really nice and secure when we close up so to have a whole. Starting with that first fastening knot, and I'm going to do two here. It's really nice and secure. Then we're going to work along with that fell stitch along this line to close the orange up. Because this jazz is a bit thick, this can be a little bit fiddly. Takes few times to get the right spot and get it in. Take your time. Going in where we came out to the under piece of fabric and then going in a slight angle, to go through to pick up the top fabric. Slowly, working all the way up that line until we close it off with a fastening knot. There we go just finishing it off now with that little fastening knot. Going through the loop to make the knot. Then we want to make that piece of thread disappear. We thread it back through and pop it out down the scene so that can disappear. Then we cut right next to the fabric being careful to not cut the fabric. Just cut the thread so that, that disappears. There we go. We have our nice lumpy ball shape. Very satisfying. There we have it. A lovely round orange ready to be decorated. Let's get into the next lesson where we're going to learn how to attach the stalk and the leaf. 5. Stalk and Leaves: Welcome back. Now it's time to make our leaf and our stalk so now I need to get our green fabric ready to go to make this part of the orange. If you'd like your leaf to look exactly the same as mine use the pattern, but for this video, I will be doing what's called winging it. I'm just drawing a design for the leaf, to start with the orange pieces that bold line is going to be the sewing line, and the dashed line around is the cutting line. The dashed line, because I'm going to fold it under, is more like half a centimeter, not 0.5 millimeters rather than one centimeter, because we don't want too much excess fabric for this teeny tiny leaf. Then using the first leaf I've cut out as a stencil to cut out the other shape so that we have two matching leaf shapes, then we need to attach them together. This fabric doesn't have a right side or wrong side, but if yours does, you want to draw your line on the wrong side, because now we have the fabric right side together to stick it together. Starting off with a fastening knot to join the two pieces of fabric. Now we are going along with running stitch along that one edge of the leaf. We're just doing one side like we did with the orange, just one side of the leaf, then I am getting right once I get right to the end of that other point, going to do a fastenings stitch, and then I am folding it around. We're going to do fell stitch to close it. What we do is we just tuck under the five millimeters of scene to join these two sides together. This can be a bit fiddly so what I normally do is one little area at a time. I'm folding up this end, I'll do a few stitches, and then I'll fold again. I decided to do a running stitch to add a bit more interest and texture to the leaf, you could also fell stitch them together. You'll see now, I'm working running stitch up the side of that leaf, and making sure I'm quite near the edge of the fabric because we haven't folded it under that much, and I want to make sure that it's all secure. Working that running stitch along, and then folding it under as we go. Tucking that five millimeters have seam in, matching them up nicely, and then carrying along with the running stitch until we reach the end. Then we need to do the other side so that it matches. We've got running stitch going all the way around the leaf and then finishing off with a fastenings stitch at the end, and once we've done our nice secure knot, we tuck that in and through so that the thread disappears. There we go, our leaf is complete, which means that we can now move on to working on the stalk, looks lovely. Let's find and make a stalk to attach to it. Measuring five centimeters, you measure how long you want the stalk, I thought five centimeters look nice. I'm drawing a five-centimeter square, so one side of the square, the other side, and then cutting that out. The fabric I'm using is my partner's shirt that he wore out, a lovely green linen shirt, I really like the color of this, and it's nice, fine linen, which is really lovely and light to work with. Once I've got my square, I'm ready to roll it up to make the stalk, you might want to wait your fingers to get a nice grip on the linen because it can be a bit slippery, and we roll all the way up, and then at the end, we want to tuck a bit under because we don't want to leave a raw edge because it's more likely to fray. Folding that in, tucking around, closing up the stem, and then the first thing we need to do is close up the tip of the stem. We do this by doing a few stitches round and round, making sure that we include a few fastening knots in there so it's really secure. You'll see me just working around and around, little crisscross but pretty looking end, nice and secure as well so we know our stem isn't going to fall apart, and including some fasting knots in there, it's all knotted up. Then just checking that the stalks rolled up as tight as it can be, and then we start working down it with some fell stitch. Slowly we go, this can be a bit fiddly, and it's one of those ones where you can end up stabbing yourself quite a bit, you see my thumb on the left, ended up being victim to the needle a few times, so just take it slowly and be careful. Tiny little neat stitches here working all the way to the end of the stem. Once we've got to the end, we do as we always do, and fasten off with a knot so that is complete, lovely. And this end, this messy end is the end that we're going to tuck inside the orange, so let's get that ready, and what we're going to do is just carefully squish it in there into the gap. Then we want to join on a new piece of thread. It's your choice what color of thread you use here, I decided it look quite nice with the green, so I want the green thread to join because when we're joining two fabrics together, it's always the choice am I going to use? Which color am I going to use? The artistic decision or random decision, so I decided green would look nice, and you'll see I'm just looping in a little bit of orange, a little bit of green, so that they can be secured to each other, and slowly working around in a circle, round and round to attach the stem on all sides. Again, if you want to make it really secure your want to pop in an extra few fastening stitches here, fastening knot so it's really tight. You'll see here, I've worked all the way around that it looks like there's about seven stitches, I thought it would look better and would be a bit more secure with more, so I worked around one more time, so now you can see it looks more like 10 or 15 stitches. Now it's time to join the leaf. We need to pop the needle up the stem so that it comes back out where the leaf is going to be, so first of all that fastening knot, and then threading the needle up to about halfway up the stem, and from there that's where we can attach our leaf. We attach the leaf a similar way that we attach to the stem to the orange, just doing lots of stitches round and round to get it nice and secure, and starting with a fastening knot. We've done that lovely secure fastening knot, and then we work around and around and around. We can test it by pulling it and check if it's really tight on there, so we scoop a little bit of leaf, a little bit of stem, and then pull it together. Once we feel confident that we've worked around it enough, and that it's nice and secure, we end with a fastenings stitch, fastening knot, and then make that piece of thread disappear by turning it back up, and in. There we go, that thread is now out, and then we can trim that. Look how lovely our orange looks, trimming it off, and there we go. There we go, we now have our stalk and our leaf complete, ready to add a bit of personality with some eyes. 6. Appliqué eyes : Welcome back. I love this lesson. This is the lesson where we're going to learn more about applique. When we applique the eyes, we will need white fabric for the white of the eye, we will need a color for the pupil. I've chosen green. You might also like a blue or hazel and you'll need the black for the pupil. Let's get stuck into this lesson. Starting with white fabric for the white of the eye using my thumbs to measure the size and marking the length of each eye. As with other stages of this process, the pen line we're drawing is going to be the line that we're sewing on the actual shape. Then we are going to cut half a centimeter, somewhere between three and five millimeters to fold under. Because for this part of it we're going to do turned applique. So I've also drawn the iris and the pupil on just so I can get a bit of an idea of what it's going to look like. Fact of the day, did you know that the white part of the eye is called the sclera? You never hear that word, you hear pupil and iris, but the white bit is called the sclera. This is the first bit working on one eye cut out, then using that. Because my fabric's really thin, I can actually trace the other eye through. If that's not possible, your fabrics a bit thicker, you can just stencil and draw around it. Once we've got that other eye shape cut, then our pupil and our iris sketched on there. We can cut that out. It's nice for our eyes to match. It's also nice for our eyes to not match. It can look a bit quirky. If one eye is bigger than the other, don't worry about it, it will become a feature. Carefully cutting round the sclera and leaving three to five millimeters around the edge, which we are going to do tend applique and turn it under. We're going to lay them out on our orange just to get an idea of where we want them to sit. I personally think it looks better if the eyes are very wide set rather than narrow together. So lay them out there and test out what it looks like. I found it, the seam of the orange lined up with the outer edge of the iris. That was quite good look. Then you've got the decision again, am I going to use the white thread or the orange thread? Because I'm joining two fabrics together, I decided on orange. Starting off, as we always do with a fastening knot where we plan to start our applique. Then carefully turning the fabric underneath and we want to do teeny-tiny, neat stitches that just catch the very, very edge of that turned fabric. Then we're going to turn as we go. So we do a few stitches, work along, then turn and fold the next piece of fabric, and on and on and on until we've worked all the way around the sclera. I'm using that word now, to attach the sclera to the orange and this can be a bit fiddly, especially at the corners. Trying to get a nice corner finish, but there we go. There it is finished. Then time to work on the other eye. Once we've got both scleras attached, then it's time for the pupil. I'm using my thumb to measure out the green pupil. Again, we want to cut about three to five millimeters around the edge to turn the fabric. So we do turned applique. You will see that I'm going to also cut a few little notches around the circle so that it folds nicely because we're trying to create a rounded curved shape. These notches just help with the folding so that it's curved. Carrying on working our way around. I did about five cuts in there. Then I will make another matching iris for the other side. Again, adding a few little notches in there, five or six notches so that I can turn it easily. Now it's time to attach them to the sclera and we do that the same way we did with the white is that we just fold a little bit under, do a fastening knot, do a few stitches, and then carry on to turn. So you'll see here that I've folded just one end of it. Then I will attach that with a stitch or two. Going through the orange, going through the white, and going through the green to fix it. Then when we get down the sides of the iris, we will just be linking the white to the green. Folding and turning, and then pulling through. Make sure that you do what I just didn't do there which is hold that green fabric down as you go. It makes it easier to just keep one thumb on that fabric holding it in place. Nearly finished now working this iris, carrying on down the bottom where we go through a bit of orange, a bit of white, a bit of green, teeny tiny little stitches at the edge. When you stand back a little bit, you can barely even see them magically stuck on there. It's starting to take some shape now and look like an eye. Once we finish that one, we do the same on the other. Then I'm going to draw the pupils on so that I know where I'm going to sew my pupils because these are really tiny now. We're getting really tiny. The pupils, I just cut little teeny tiny squares just slightly bigger than the circle I've drawn. This one is the fiddliest of them all. We just fold a little bit under. I'm trying to fold a bit round and just get an idea of is it possible to fold this to this tiny little shape. Yes, it is. Then as before, a nice fastening stitch and as well having that decision, am I going to use the green, or are am I going to use the black thread. Looking back, I wish I'd actually used the black thread because you see more of the stitches on the top. I went with green. So if you'd like your pupil to look really neat, you might choose to use the black stitch so that it disappears a bit more. Tucking and folding that under and then working around and around with all very careful filling stitch. Like I said, this one is a bit fiddly, so just take your time with it. Slowly tucking, folding, wiggling it around so that it disappears. The raw edges disappear underneath and you get a lovely circle when you're finished. I'm finishing with a fastening knot as we do, and then doing the other side. Can you see what I mean about the green stitches there showing up. This can be a style feature, but if you would prefer those stitches to disappear a bit more, you might choose a black. Using my thumb to measure the eyelid. I noticed that it was from the tip of my thumb to my thumb crease for the eyes, and therefore the same with the eyelid. So we just draw from there, measuring length from there to there. Then I'm going to draw a curved eyelid shape. Looks a bit like a new moon. Once I've got one new moon shape drawn for the eyelid. This time we're going to be a bit different because we are going to cut on our sewing line because I think it looks nice with a raw edge for the eyelid. Also because I'm working with this thick fabric, this is very hard to turn for turned applique. This is your decision here. Do you want to do turned edges for your eyelids? If you've got a thinner fabric or do you want to leave it raw again for a bit of a rustic look? There I have my two raw eyelids. I can see here that this bit's a bit too long when I lay it on top of the eye. Before I start sewing, I'm just going to trim that little side off so that the eyelids have a nice shape and match the eye. A lot of this work is done by just looking back seeing how it looks. It looks okay. To join the eyelids, we use an orange thread. The stitches mostly disappear. You still can see them, again adding a little bit of texture and interest, but they're not standing out. This could be a decision that because we're doing this raw edge applique on these eyelids that you might want to use a really bold stitch, like a black thread for it to look a bit patchworky raggedy anish. Your decision. But I decided to use an orange and then I work through and you'll see that the stitches need to go in a little bit because of this raw edge. So making sure that they're at least a few mil in so that your fabric doesn't fray and your stitches come out and keeping your thumb on the eyelid, holding it down as you work. So you see I've done about three or four stitches there all the way to the end. Then now I'm working on the inner side of the eyelid. Want to be extra careful here because we don't want the orange showing on the white or the green. So just tucking it right under and making sure that we're generous with how far the needle goes into those eyelids so that you've definitely got a nice stitch. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. About 11 stitches I did round, and I thought actually that is not enough. It doesn't look secure. So I went round again in between the gaps and did some more stitches. There's probably about 20 in the end. You could just do that first time around or if you feel like it's not secure, just go round again. There we have our lovely looking eyes. You might want to leave them like this , but it's up to you. There we have it. Don't the eyes looking lovely? Starting to have some personality there. Now, it's time to add the eyelashes and a bit of extra detail to make those eyes really pop. I'll see you in the next lesson. 7. Add the Eyelashes: In this lesson, we are going to learn my pioneering stitch, which I've invented called eyelash stitch. This is to add some fabulous eyelashes to the eyes and also add a bit of extra sparkle with some gold stitch. If you don't have a gold stitch, you could use a yellow or another contrasting color just to add a little bit of extra detail to the eyes to really make them pop. Let's get stuck in. Here's one I made earlier. I practiced this eyelash stitch before I showed you. Now, I'm going to demonstrate it with you. Getting a nice black thread, I actually found one that was a little bit thicker so that the eyelashes have a bit of thickness to them. Starting off with, as always, a fastening knot so our eyelashes are nice and secure. Making that loop, pulling through. There we have it, nice and secure. So for eyelash stitch, we fold a little loop about the length of the eyelid or however long we want the eyelashes to be, and then we scoop one stitch under. Then after the first stitch is pulled through nice and tight, we then do a fastening node. That completes that eyelash that is now secure. Onto the next one, make a loop, hold it under your thumb, pull the thread through once, do a fascinating knot. There we go, second eyelash complete. We carry on working all the way along the eye, I worked all the way to the inner edge of the iris. Once we've done that, so I had to look at it afterwards and I thought that's not actually enough eyelashes. I decided to go over the whole thing again and add the same amount of eyelashes over again. You see now I've got double, which creates a more chunky false lash effect. Now, to finish off the black eye decoration, I want to make it look like we've got that cat wing eyeliner. We're going from the edge of the eyelashes to the corner of the eye with a nice backstitch. This is a little bit fiddly for me here because the jersey is quite thick over the white fabric. I'm just trying to get a nice neat line here was a little bit fiddly. You see I worked all the way to the end or did it once, and then I'm working back again so we can make this line thicker. Backstitch one way and then backstitch the other way so that we've got a nice bold chunky line for the eyeliner look. Once that's finished, we knot that to complete. Nice fastening knot to secure. I noticed that there was a bit of extra string fraying fabric here. This can happen when you do larger. I just decided just to trim that off. It was ruining the look of the corner of the eye, always something that you can do. See these eyelashes looking lovely, you might want to leave them like that, they look quite cool, or rounded as well. I wanted to trim mine. When you trim them, be cautious with how you do it and just start with a little bit and then trim more as you go. When I did this, I actually trim a bit shorter than I originally wanted. It doesn't matter, but if you just do a little bit at a time, then you're not going to make them too short. Then looking back, just giving everything a squished, you're checking how the eyelash is looking, even trimming off any other bits to get them looking pretty. Can see how long they are here. Now for some extra glam, we're going to add that gold detail. This is a French knot we're going to do. It's one of my favorite embroidery stitches for adding texture. It looks really nice in the corner of the eye here. So we pull through, then we loop the thread 1, 2, 3 times around the needle, pulling it tight. Then we go back into the fabric, very close to where we came out. About a millimeter away from where we came out, tuck it back down, and then pull it out. You might want to watch this stitch back a few times to get it really clear. You see when I pull through, makes a very pretty little raised circle. Really love the look of that. If you don't have a shiny gold thread, you might want to use another statement color. It could be a bright blue or bright purple, just to add a bit of extra decoration to these pretty eyes. I'm working along now with some gold backstitch over the top of the eyelid to add a bit more glam. Then once I've finished, just trimming it out. They always come out as seams when I have access threads there coming out. Snipping that off and that is looking lovely. Now that the eyes are finished, they look amazing. We just need to add the mouth and do the final touches. Let's see you in the next lesson. 8. Mouth and Final Touches: Welcome back. In this one we're going to do the mouth and just look over any other final touches. Let's get stuck in. Now drawing the mouth on to our orange. You can try this a few times because this pen is iron off then you can draw it once, iron it off if you don't like it and start again. I was pretty happy with my first try. Then I'm going to thread my needle and instead of just leaving a short length at the end I'm going to pull the thread all the way through so it's doubled up. It's creating a thicker line. Then because working with double thread like that it's much more likely to get knotted I find. I get my beeswax and I run that along the thread a few times just to make the thread a little bit slipperier. This is traditionally used when working with linen using the beeswax. Joining in at the edge of the mouth and doing our fastenings stitch. Then for the mouth we're going to use chain stitch which probably is my favorite stitch after French knot for adding some pretty detailed for embroidery. You might want to go back and see it black and white because it is a bit harder seeing because I'm sewing onto a black line I've already drawn. But we do one back stitch coming backwards like this then we meet that back come up. That's our first chain done there. Then we very carefully using a needle slide under the first chain and enter back in where we came out. That's the second chain stitch and carrying on the same so coming out and then working back going under both of those chains. We work that all the way along the mouth and end it with a fastening stitch. In the end it will look something like this. Now it's time to clean up. Because my pen is an iron on pen I'm going to get my iron and just clean off those marks that are still showing on the eyes. Also got nice to iron the eyelashes so they really stay outwards and up. Just giving the eyelashes an iron and getting rid of the pen marks admiring our work. Then looking if there's any stray bits of thread anywhere or just anything else that we were not happy with that we want to change. If you stray bits here and there pulling them off, giving a little squidge to make the shape nice. I actually noticed that on one side the eyeliner still looked a bit thin and I wanted to top that up with a few more stitches so it would match the other side to finish off. Adding in a few more stitches there. Now it's time for the big reveal. Look at this beautiful orange. [MUSIC] Well done you. There's one more video left where we're going to wrap everything up. See you in the last lesson. [MUSIC] 9. Well done: Thus this class is finished. Well done for completing. I would love to see what you've made. Do post a picture in the project section. It will be really nice if you write me a review on Skillshare because then the Skillshare algorithm will fall in love with me. You can also visit my teacher page where you can find other classes that I have on there, and also links to my social media. If you post something on social media, please do tag me @lauralamn. Well done again. Thanks for watching. Bye.