First Steps Into Stop-Motion: Creating a Jointed Cut Out Puppet Using the Build-up Method

1. Introduction: Hi everyone. Welcome to first steps into stop motion, creating good jointed cut-out or page. Using the build up method. Before we get started with this amazing class. He's a little bit about me. I'm a freelance animators and character designer based in the UK. I work in stop motion, particularly cut-out animation. My work has been shown around the world, including in Bangladesh and most recently in Liverpool taped. I'll take you through my process from design, color options, materials, building up your puppet, and adding final details. To leave you with a fantastic final jointed puppet. This class is for anyone. I look forward to helping you take your first steps into the world of stop motion. 2. Class Project: As you see here, this is what you'll be learning to design and create; a jointed cutout puppet made using the build-up method. This style is a really great first step into the world of stop-motion. While this technique is simple, you can easily build upon it to advance your stop-motion knowledge and develop your own style. This course is great for beginners. I teach it at slow pace, giving you as much information and tips as possible to help you on your journey. This course is also great if you're an illustrator or a designer, looking at how you could take your work into a different area. At the end of this course, you'll be able to create your own jointed cutout puppet using the build-up method. Whether that is based on the design I am using, which is available for you guys to use, or your own original design. For your course project, all you need to get started is the design of the puppet you want to make, or you can use my design. Take some pictures of your process, and of course, you're amazing finished puppet. Share it on the course page so I and the rest of the students can see your amazing work. 3. The Design: The design aspect of this course is very simple. If you aren't happy or confident to design your own character to turn into a puppet, you can find mine available for you to download and use. If you are designing your own, these are just a few things to keep in mind. For this class, have your character design at a three-quarter angle, such as these. It gives you more to work with. Also, choose colors earlier so you can get the needed materials to complete your puppet as you've imagined it. 4. Materials: The most important material that you're going to need is some scissors. Any scissors will do for this project. I like to use dress or embroidery scissors because they are a bit smaller and more maneuverable, and they are also pretty sharp. Any scissors will do but the smaller the scissors, the better it will be for this type of project. A must-have Fathers' Project is some craft card. I like to use 280 GSM card, it gives a really good weight and destructive to the puppets. We'll be using this to make the base layers of our cutout puppet. This is a must-have for this project. All the materials that you'll need for this project include different types of card or paper depending on what you want to use for the next layers of your puppets. I like cover mix of colored pod, plain white card, and watercolor paper. For the watercolor paper, I like to use a make called khadi, which you can find information on in the material section. For any of your other card, just try and get a good weight, anything above a 100 GSM is good for this project. Pencil, cranes, paints and pens will be used to add detail to your puppet. This is a personal choice on what you would like to use. For this project I will be using watercolors and pencil crayons, but you can pretty much use anything to go on top of your paper. Just think about the best way to add certain details or what materials and techniques you're already comfortable with. You will also need glue. The glue will be used to stick the layers of paper together. Some papers might stick better with different types of glue. I generally use print stick or some sort of glue stick Although PVA glue is an option, just make sure you don't put too much on and give it time to dry if you do use PVA glue. 5. Choosing the Joints: When it comes to making the Joint Field puppet, there are a few different options that you can use. I'm going to go through these now so that then you can decide which type of material you need to get to make your joints. The three options that I'm going to be looking at are blu tack, mini split pins and magnets. Blu tack is a very easy option to use, it's very easy to get hold of, obviously it is easy to use and it is relatively cheap. However, you do need to be aware that it can damage the paper and it doesn't really allow for smooth movements. The split pins are a really great option. Firstly, they come in multiple colors and they come in multiple sizes and they are easy to use. You might need something to puncture the paper with. I've listed in the materials document what I like to use however, anything that will make the incision is fine. The cons of this type of joint is that you can damage the paper. If when you're piercing it, you make the incision too big, there's no real way of rectifying that. It does also make the joints visible and it is thickness dependent. If you use too many layers of card, you might have two smallest split pin to go through them. Finally, the magnets which creates smooth movements and create really strong giants. They also come in various sizes. I get my magnets from firstformagnets.com, they are fantastic, but they are the most expensive option and can be really fiddly to attach. For this project, I am going to be using the split pins, but it's really good to know your options and then you can look into it and decide for yourselves. 6. The Head: Base Layer : Now we have got our card up. Here is the head that we've just cut out. The first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to create the back of the hair. The back of the hair is going to, let me draw it up here. Try and make use of as much of your card as possible. You're basically just drawing around your shape as if this is a stencil. That's the back, done. Now I bring back the head and this time I'm going to cut around the head. But if you remember when we did this, we had our fringe section. What I'm going to do is I'm going to draw that back on because we are going to use that as our line, to cut the shape of the head out. Now we've got our head. I went little bit wide there but I've just redone it so I know that its the closer line. Next we are going to cut out the fringe section. You'll be looking and thinking, you're going to be cutting into the nose section and the eyebrows. But I'll show you how we deal with that in a second once we've done the fringe. The next step is to cut out the fringe. Back to the face. You've got two options here, you can either get one of the designs that you printed out and simply cut out these sections, or you can cut them out and simply draw in the missing gaps, which is what I am going to do for this. The next section is, I'm going to do the nose and forehead. We're done with this bit for now because we're not doing the facial features quite yet. But what I'd just suggest is just pop that to the side. You can see my forehead section. Then follow the eyebrows, just cut out there eyebrows and draw around them. That is how we do the buildup for the face. What I'm going to do now is I'm going to cut out all these different sections that we've done, just to show you how the base sections will then build up. Then we will move on to the body and the legs. 7. The Body: Base Layer Part 1: The next part that we are going to be making is the body. For this section, we need to cutoff the neck and then the arms, and we need to put them to one side. Then I'll show you what we're going to do with those afterwards. I'll show you where we are going to be cutting, so we're going to cut out the body. Then we are going to cut around the hand. This arm we can just cut off and we can get rid of it. As long as you've got that arm that you've just cut off, as long as you've got this one. You can cut off this little bit that you can't really see properly and put that one in the bin as long as you've got this one. Once we've cut around the body like that, you're then going to draw around it like we did with the head. You should have something that looks a bit like this. You'll see here that I've cut this shoulder part. I've not cut that shoulder, the one that would be at the back. That's because we're going to make that as a separate piece. What we're going to do is we're going to take our body and we're going to flip it. We're just going to draw around this bit of the shoulder. You can see that I've drawn around that little bit of the shoulder, and then we're just going to make it into its own piece that then we can layer up. All I'm going to do is I'm just going to add a curve, come down and meet. You want something that looks a bit like that. That is our back shoulder. Now we're just going to repeat the process that we've done there and with the head that we did previously. We're going to start cutting out the individual layers. We're going to do the collar, which you will cut out. Then the bow, I'm going to cut out, and then we'll work on the little bit of material that attaches there. That's the outside of the bow there, and now I'm going to cut the middle section out as well. The last little bit that we need to do here is the bit of the outfit where we've got the bow attaching to the dress. How I'm going to do this is I'm going to cut a little bit off the corner here and I'm just going to place it across there and mark on where exactly I want this piece of material to be. Then I'll cut the shirt directly from this. Now I'm going to start cutting out all these different sections and building them up so you can see what it looks like. The first thing I've noticed is I'm not happy with the shape of the shoulder piece. What I'm going to do is I'm going to put it back onto this and try and get that shape a little bit more similar. That's how our puppet is looking so far. The next section we are going to be working on, making the limbs. That's going to include the neck, two arms, and the two legs, which hopefully you've kept, which should be like this. That's our next section. I hope you're enjoying it so far. The main thing you need to remember is you have to have an extra section on each limb. You need a longer piece than you would originally have, which I'll show you now. Let's start off with the neck. Now, the neck, you probably just have this little piece left. What I would suggest is get your card and just place it down and just roughly mark out the width. You don't need to do the top and bottom, just the sides. That's because you're going to need, when I mentioned just before about the extra length, you're going to need some extra length down here, which will go behind the body, and extra length up here that will go behind the head. Essentially your head will go like that, and your body will go there. My suggestion for the neck at this point is to make it as long as possible and then you can always shorten out. I'm actually going to extend mine. That's my neck. Because you can always show it's a neck. It's better to make it a bit longer, and then you can shorten it as you go along. 8. The Body: Base Layer Part 2: The next thing is the arm, so I ask you to keep the one arm that we could see properly. The arm is made up of two sections, you've got the top section and then the bottom section which includes the hand. What we're going to do first is we're going to cut off this excess and then we're going to decide where our break will be. If we look at this, probably about very naturally would be the break. Again, we're just going to draw along the outside just roughly off the limb so I should top it and then I'm just going to write top and then this is your bottom. Now, I drew the hand quite detailed in my original design book to this, I'm just going to give a thumb and then a simple altogether fingers section. You should have something a bit like that, as we said before, we need to extend. This one needs an extension to what would be the elbow, and then this bit needs an extension into what would be the shoulder and the elbow. We only need to do one arm, and I'll show you why in a second. Next, we're just going to move onto the leg so it's a similar process to what we've just done with the arm. We're going to decide where the bend would be, let me use this one just because its a bit straight. The knee would be there, no line, then I'm going to draw around the edges. That's the top leg, that's going to need extending into over the hip and down into the knee, so it looks something like that, hip and knee. Then I'm going to draw around the lowest section, which includes the ankle but for this one, what you want is you want your limbs when you draw them for me design to be as straight as possible. I'm just going to draw that out, but then I'm going to draw that straight, then put the foots in. Then we need the extension there to go into the knee. You have something roughly that looks like that so what you can do now is you can cut all these out. You've got your neck, the neck can just go out of the way for a second. and then you've got your leg, which will look something along the lines of left. You might be looking at these and thinking they look a bit gang Glee at the moment but once they're in position and laid, they'll look a lot better and you can always trim them down. That's the top of the arm, and so that's how it's going to look so far. Now we have to make another leg and another arm, to make your next like, all you need to do is get some more card and just draw around these limbs again the same way that they're because both legs in our original design went the same way, the feet were pointing the same way. For the arms, you just have to flip it, so best way to remember is that the thumb or little thumb there will always be pointing in towards the body. If that's her arm is pointing towards her stomach so when you flip it, the thumb will again be pointing inwards. If it goes on this side, its pointing inwards so you stuff to flip those round. That's how they're looking now, the last thing that we need to make is the little shoes. As we've done before, all we're going to do is we're going to cut round just the shape of the shoe because we've already got the shape of the foot. Just make it a little bit bigger and then we can trim it down once we know how it relates to the size of the foot that we've made. For this, we're just going to, I'm going to cut this out and then I'm going to repeat the process and I'm going to draw around this shoe again so I've got the exact same size shoe. We've cut out the size of our two shoes, this one is a little bit smaller and I like the shape of that one more so what I'm going do is we're going to try and match up the other one just by putting them on top of each other and then cutting off any excess on the other bigger shape. They look more similar now, and now I just need to check that they are going to fit on my legs. It is a bit fiddly just because of how the card is bent, if you find you've got a problem like that just bend your card a bit to try and make a bit flatter. I think this foot is not quite right, so I'm just going to need to narrow. It's best if your shoes are bigger that the foot then you can smear the shoes to fit in all the feet. This is what your final basely a puppet should look like. These are all the different sections put together so our next section, we are going to moving on to choosing the next layer of paper that we're going to do for our buildup puppets and that will involve choosing different colored card, playing card or watercolor paper. 9. Colour Layer: The next part of your puppet is choosing which materials you're going to build your next layer. So you've got all your base layers which are made of card, and now it's time to decide what each of those layers will be made of for its next layer. I have decided to go for pink-colored card and blue-colored card for the clothing, so the blue-colored card is going to make the men's section of the dress and our little shoulder section, and the pink section is going to make all the accessories. So the things like the bow and the color of the shoes as we've said before, it's always great to plan your colors ahead so you can make sure that you've got the right colored card or paper in, all the right colored pencils or watercolors. On my design, I decided that she was going to have ginger hair so I decided to use the textured watercolor paper that I talked about earlier, and I'm going to make her eyebrows, her fringe section on the main section of her hair in this, I've chosen that because it's really textured and I think it'll add a nice bit of life to the cut-out puppets and for the main section of the body, for the head, the face sections, the neck, and all the limbs, both arms and legs I've just decided to use plain card and reason I've done it like this is because for this I want to show you how you can use the different types of materials, also the different effects that it gives you in the end result. So we're now going to draw around our base layers and create the next layer up. So that's all you're doing within this section. You're going to take whatever card or paper you've chosen, get your base layer and draw around it until you have a section of card paper what card paper etc to go on top of every single base layer that you have made. Once you've done that, you should have something that looks a bit like this, so this is a, we'll call it the colored layer for each of your base layers, so for now just put your base layers to the side, keep them grouped in the little color groups so you don't get anything mixed up, so our next section is going to be looking at what materials and techniques we can use to build detail on. 10. Adding Watercolour Part 1: For the first section I've decide to do is the hair. Once you get to this stage, it doesn't really matter what order do you add the details on with. You could do the hair section first or you could do the body, it's entirely up to you. I've decided to start with the hair just because I want to talk you through this type of paper again. This is the special cotton watercolor paper that I've talked about earlier. You can find information about in the materials section. When using this type of watercolor paper, you can get a really, really great wash on because the water doesn't absorb instantly. If I was to dip my brush into the water and literally just drop the water on. The water doesn't absorb instantly. That's what's really great about cotton paper. I'm going to start with a wash of orange, which is this color here. I'm also going to use some vermilion, which is our darker orange heading towards red, but we're going to start off with this orange first. I'm really soaking my brush. Soaking the warts caught up, but you can already see the paint. If I just start then just put water on, you can already see that the water isn't going into the paper. Its sitting on top. If I just drop my color on it spreads within the water. I'm just going to create a base coats on all these different sections using this one color. I've given them a little color wash. Well, you might have noticed I wasn't actually brushing like this. I was more duping on. That's because when you use cotton paper or really when use any sort of watercolor paper, if you stroke as you would normally do when you're painting, and if you do it too much like this when you're trying to get a bit of a wash. If I were to keep doing that sort of movement, I would actually start to rip the paper and it would cause damage and we don't want that at all. One thing that I find is if you dab and if you have enough water on that, you can then so spread it out. It works a lot better than going like this constantly. You've got two options now and your first option is when you do something like this, you've got a base cover. You could instantly start adding your darker color parts for things like these sections where you want the hair to be dark at the bottom as it would naturally be because it would be in shadow. If you want to add again, like shadow to the eyebrows, you can instantly start adding it with a darker color. The risk of doing that when you just did a wash or when you've just done another color is that it will blend. If you don't want any sort of blended look once you've added the darker sections, you'll need to wait for this section to dry. I'm quite happy with the blending. I'm going to go straight into it and I'm going to go to my vermilion, but I am going to change to a slightly smaller brush just to make sure I try and get it in the exact places that I want it. I'm only adding water to the vermilion. This is still quite wet. I'm trying to get quite a bit of color on my brush. I'm just going to decide where I want this. I want these sections at the bottom to be dark and you can see how it instantly spreads. If I put it there and move up it spreads where it wants to. If you're not wanting the colors to blend, you need to wait for your first layer of what's cold to dry. If you do want that blend, make sure you've got a nice wet combust that you can then drop your color onto. I'm just dropping mine at the bottom here where they would be shadow on these sections. Now that I've dropped quite a bit of color on, onto the back of the hair, I'm not just going to leave it like I'm going to take the color off my brush, give it little white. Then I'm just going to start dropping water on and just pushing the dark colors I've just put on into the lighter wash that date. You can see that it's really starting to blend. What do I want to do is just start at the very bottom of this dark color and completely blend it. You still want that like so gradient of color. This is where your personal preference again comes in. How much do you want to it shine. I'm quite happy with that. I'm going to repeat that process on these two sections and thinking about where it would be darker. Again, the eyebrows will be a bit darker there with the bottom where they are going to be going on to the face, the fringe. Little bit here will be a little bit dark than that top section. This is a really fun time to experiment. If you're struggling and wondering how you think these different techniques are going to look, just get a scrap piece of the paper that you're going to be using and have a play around first before you commit to actually doing it on your layer sections. 11. Adding Watercolour Part 2: The next section that I've decided to do is the body. The body I drew onto the colored card. The difference between doing what color onto the colored card than doing it onto the watts co paper that we used previously is, firstly, I'm not going to do a wash because this type of paper will really quickly absorb water, if is not as thick it will become soggy, you might end up with a lot of curly. When you're doing watercolor, you're on to something like this, really, you don't want to be applying too much water. It's great to use colored card at times because you've already got a base coat of color. For this one, I'm going to use two different colors. I am going to use cobalt blue and I might throw in a little bit a turquoise. I'm going to be focusing on making sure that I'm adding some shadows. For example, I might put shadows around the edge and then blend in towards the middle and this section, which is the shoulder, this section will be behind the main section of the body. So this bit you'll want to be darker because if you imagine that the light was shining on your puppet, this section would be a bit darker. I'm going to use a smaller brush. I'm only going to put a little bit of water onto, just get a little bit of color. Don't worry if your brush has been dyed a different color, after using another color, we used orange earlier. You can still see the orange, it's not going to affect your painting as long you've washed it off properly. Don't be tempted to keep putting lots and lots and lots of different coats of color and water on this. Because as you can see, this paper is already got quite waterlogged. It's very bendy. Just put it aside, let it dry. Something I might recommend is putting a blunt piece of paper on top, well, on the bottom and putting something heavier on it if you're worried about it bending because some types of paper, depending on how much water you've put into it, will warp so you might end up with curls like this and curls like that. It's not the end of the world. You can always flatten out later but that's just a little tip for you. Next we're going move on to doing the full accessories that go in the dress. We will be doing the same thing that we've just done here but obviously we won't be using blue, we'll be using some sort of pink. Again, so this process and it's smaller area, so we're going to want to be a lot more precise with where we're putting our color, tiny bit of blend, really focusing on adding more shadow and dimension to our puppets. My rule of thumb is I always make it darker at the bottom because for example, if you've got this color, it's going to be a bit darker at the bottom instead of the top, where the lines are likely to get to it. The shoes, for example, the bottom will be darker because they are close to the ground. I am going to use a purple on these. Let's try pronouncing it Serifs, don't know why I'm struggling pronouncing that, it's very simple. Serifs, we're going to be using. Okay. That's what you should have at the moment, something a bit like that. You can see that there are sort of different colors from each other and then when they come together, they will look much more in depth. They will look like it is a 3_D little bot. I'm going to do the same for the color, as I've done for the bow section. I'm going to put the serifs around there. Then for the shoes, I'm going to really put a heavy line of serifs at the bottom and then blend upwards. Okay. That's our little accessory section. I'm actually really happy with how the shoes look. I'm just going to notice that it's not quite spread to the top of the shape. I'll just quickly blend that up. For the next section, which is going to be all the little body parts, I'm going to do under the wash. This is a similar situations we've just done with the blue and the pink, the card isn't as thick but I'm really just going to give it a very gentle wash because I'm going to add most of the shadow and detail with pencil crayon, which we will go into next. For this section, I'm really just going to do a very quick wash over this whole section and I'm going to add the detail with pencil crayons once this is dried. I like to do that because I think it gives you much more freedom to do specific areas because for example, there's more sections to the body parts, specifically the face. It's great to be able to get in really detailed with something like a pencil crayon. That said, you can do watercolor, I did it before with watercolor. But for this puppet, I'm going to do the mix like that. For the color for this, I'm going to use this one, which within this tin is called flesh color. Okay. You can just about see the wash. That's what we're going for. You don't want it to go, so for example, if I go here, I keep putting that color. You don't want it to go orange. That's the risk with the classic flesh color, is that it's based on the orange color. If you put too much on, you're going to look like you had a really bad fate time, unless that's what you're going for. So repeat the process. Really water it down. You need to add more water to your tablet. That's fine. We will then be adding any details with pencil, crayon or a pen depending on what you want to do. That is our next section which is adding some more details. 12. Pencil Crayon Elements: We're going to start off with the hair section and the fringe and the eyebrows. You can see that we can really see the texture of the paper that's coming through, I'm doing a watercolor which is great. Now I'm just going to start adding some extra details just to bring it to life a little bit more. I'm going to start off with the orange, and I'm just going to go over the sections where I added the darker areas and really work into them to make them ascend down. When you're using the pencil crayons, I would say try and stay more in the lines this time. Don't worry if you go out of them. That just means then that the color you're applying is exactly where you want it to be. You can start to add some hair, just little lines which will look a bit like this. Just little flicks, you can do them at different pressures [inaudible] you can see, put the pressure and you get some really nice lines, if not, you'd just get some nice little flicks. Try and think about the way the hair is going. In the middle here, you don't really need to worry too much about filling this whole bit because your head is going to copy this section. Just work around the outside, add as much detail as you want, and put some stronger sections in there. That's how we're going to build up the color for the half, for the rest of that section. So I'll repeat that process on this side, and I'll also repeat it on the fringe section. The eyebrows are a little bit different because you don't want it too in your face. What I would suggest is just quite gentle application there with some darker orange. I've gotten out of the line there but it's okay. A little bit there, and then just gently blend up a little bit. So you're not going as aggressively with the pencil crayons as you were on the biggest section of hair and then what you would do with the fringe. So you'll have something like that for the eyebrows at the moment. For the eyebrows, just think about how your eyebrows look and just some gentle little strokes. Now, don't go and draw a big line from one end to the other because nobody's eyebrows, unless you draw them on, look like that. You want little flicks. Some will be dark than others, just again to give that a texture. So you can already see the difference between those two. Don't worry if they're not straight lines. Again, [inaudible] your eyebrows aren't always straight. So that's what the eyebrows look like. Now you would carry on that same process. Do your fringe, do the rest of your hair, and then once you've done that section, you can then move on to coloring a different section. 13. Building the puppet: To begin building your puppet, you will need to cut-out all your completed color layers. And then glue them to the corresponding base pieces. Repeat the process until they're all glued together. 14. Making the Joints Part 1: Once you've stuck all your base layers to your colored layers, the next step is to start layering up our cutout puppets and to start considering where our joints are going to be and actually making them. For my puppet, I've decided that I'm going to use the little split pins. Here you'll be able to see that there are three different colors. There is a gold, a bronze, and a silver in this particular pack. I've had a look at the colors and I've decided that I'm going to use the silver split pins, so I've got my silver split pins here. You should have about 10. Next, what I'm going to do, is I'm going to start sorting out the layers in terms of which ones I can glue together and which ones I will need to have some sort of joint in. I'm going to do that now. These are the first sections that I can just go straight into gluing. Just get your Pritt stick or whichever glue you were using earlier, and you can simply start gluing these into position. So you can glue your shoes onto the feet, you can glue your little bow sections together onto the main body. When it comes to the head, you can glue your forehead section in position. Then when you're gluing the head onto the hair, just take into consideration that you are going to need to leave a bit of a gap at the bottom where we've got our curve, so that we can put our neck piece in. Our neck piece will have its join there, in that respect. Just make sure that you are leaving that bit of a gap. If you're struggling to remember where to stick it, just quickly draw a line so that you know that you can glue all that section, but don't put any glue there for now. Then you want to stick it like that. So you will have your head. Now you should have these sections glued together. If you find that some sections aren't quite matching up. So for example, this leg, a little bit of the heel's gone out, you can just cut it, make sure that they fit together. That's one of the other great things about cutout, is that you can always alter things as you go along. As you can see now, we've got the nice built-up section of the head, got that section of the body, and we have our little shoes and legs. The next section is going to be looking at how we're going to start to make the joints. If you are using the little split pins like I am, you're going to want something like this, which I talked about in the material section. It's basically a piercer, so it is quite sharp at the end and it will pierce through the paper, and then you can put your little split pins in to make your joints. Next we're going to look at the sections that we need to create joints in, and we're going to look at how and where we're going to attach them. These are all the sections that are going to need a whole punching in them to make the joint. The easiest way to do this, is to pair them up into the little sections if they have a pair, and then to pierce all the sections at the same time, so the hole is in the same place for each of them. We're just going to do that now. Before we start doing any piecing, I'm just going to stick this shoulder piece here to my arm. Then to make sure that the other side of our arm is the same, I'm just going to get the body and I'm going to put them like that and look at where, how much at the top that we need. So our joints there. That should be okay. Might do, is I'm just going to trim this down a little bit. There we go. Now we can start looking at making our holes. The easiest thing to do, is to get them in position like so, and then carefully push through and wriggle and twist until you get through. Now it might take a little bit of pressure, you might have to bend a little bit, but don't worry too much about that because you can bend them back. We've got a hole there and we've got our other hole there. Once you've gone partway through, you can individually just make the holes a little bit more prominent. Once you've done that with all of them, you would then get one of your little split pins, they are so teeny-tiny, and push it through your first layer, and then get your second layer and push it through there. Then you've got the little split pins section. Then just finding where it splits, just bend those into position as you can see. Then your little joint looks like that and then your leg can move like that. What you need to do now, is you need to repeat the process for this leg and the arms. We'll do that now. 15. Making the Joints Part 2: The neck is a little bit more complicated because you've got two holes, so you're going to want to get your body and your head. The best one to do first is your head joint, because you know where that can go. Put your head joint and your neck joint together. Put those together and then make your hole. We've got our a hole there and a hole there, and then just hold those in place. Hold it I'll be able to decide how much of the neck you want showing that spot, enough for me, and then again, just push through. Now I'm just going to make these holes a little bit bigger and put my pins in, and then we'll move on to what we do with the last few sections that we've not yet touched. Once you've done the initial joints that we just talked about, you should have something that looks a bit like this. Legs should be joined together like that, your little arms, your body should have an immovable head from the top and from the shoulder area. The last bits that haven't been joined together in any way are your fringe, your eyebrow, and the little color. We're going to start off by talking about the eyebrows. When it comes to the eyebrows, sometimes when it's a small copy like this, I won't attach them using the little split pins. I will just use a little bit of blu tack. That's because if you put a split pin in, the only way you can move them is up and down like that. But you might want them to go up, you might want to maybe move it further down, so I'm going to attach those with a little bit of blu tack. For the color, all I need to do now is just stick that on, and you'll see by the placement of the pin that we've put in, that we can actually turn that into part of the little neck decoration that we had earlier, so that's worked out very nicely, and once we've put our eyebrows on with the blue tack, we can then glue on our fringe. The fringe will glue on so it can stay in place, there. Before we do those, I am going to show you the final attachments for the limbs. For the legs, similar as we did before with this arm, you're going to want to place the legs under your body, and then you're going to want to pierce through and do the same as we've just done that. You're going to want to make your joints for your legs, so that's simple enough, and the same with your arm. This arm, I am going to put a hole through and attach it to this pin. This pin has already gone through the neck and the body, but I'm going to also put this pin on it so that that is attached from the back as well. As mentioned in my talk about materials very early on, the only issue with blu tack is with over time it will start to damage the paper. But for something like this, it is the easiest option really. With little split pins, you're going to go in through a lot of layers and you can see the movement as well, so I'm just going to stick those on like that, gives it a nice little raise, and then we're just going to glue the fringe on. You don't need to put glue all the way down the actual fringe, just over around the top and then stick that on. I was best, you can really leave at that point. This is our puppet and it is now all joined together and it can move. In the next video, I'm going to show you how we do the final details. Adding the facial features, doing any more shading, extra details. 16. Final Details: For final details such as the eyes and the facial features, I used a mixture of pencil crayon, and putting up small pieces of paper to build up the eyes. How you want to do this is entirely up to you. 17. Final Thoughts : A huge well-done for finishing this class. I hope you've had as much fun learning as I have teaching it. Before you go, don't forget to share your project with us. I want to see all the amazing puppets that you guys have made. Also, if you do have the time, please do leave a review. I really want to know what you guys enjoyed and what I could do to improve the class. Have fun in your future lessons and have fun creating.